Do you have a video showing how you made your dust collector shroud for your table saw and how it works with your dust collector? I have the exact same saw I would like to do something similar or possibly exactly what you did. If you have plans I would be willing to purchase.
Hey Doug, I don't have official 'plans' and don't like to push people to sign up to Next Level Carpentry at Patreon but, since you see enough value in that dust shroud to offer to buy plans, I'll tell you that if you DO sign up as a patron you'll have access to a video that I did just a few weeks ago showing exactly what you're asking for. FWIW You're welcome to just figure it out from what you see in this video for free but take note that I had to modify the shape of the enclosure because the one shown in this video was too restrictive when the blade is fully raised and cracked the Lexan... which is why I did the patron-only video showing the modified profile along with a pretty good look into the high points of the build process. Best, Matt
I like you do the best professional job l am capable of on shop & client cabinetry. Nice to hear from you & l appreciate you taking time to respond to me. I'll be looking forward to your next woodworking show. Will Maki
Recently finish a shop in my back yard. I very glad I stumbled across your video. I'm 67 years old and learning. Hopefully I can learn a lot from your videos. Thanks a bunch.
Never apologize for your length of videos or explanations. I’m pretty experienced and still learn alot from your details. We all have a fast forward button to. Cheers.
When this video first came out I just watched it for entertainment value. Lo and behold a year later I got an old Unisaw from a friend and now I'm back here because I need a mobile base for it, and I don't like the 6-wheeled ones that are available commercially.
Wow you've got a good memory Aaron! Main problem I see with commercially available mobile bases is that they have to make them Universal so they adapt to many different saws. That's what I like about making custom mobile bases because it can be built specifically for the piece of equipment at hand and therefore be very streamlined and include all the features I want and no features I don't want. I will say that I'm not 100% happy where I moved the wheels to clear the dust collection port and wish I would have moved them the other direction. As it is the thought is almost a little bit to mobile so think that through a bit when you're planning and designing. Best, Matt
Hi Matt, your style reminds me of a Jim Kwik expression that goes, “How you do anything is how you do everything.” I really appreciate your attention to detail in the work that you do and in your explanations on how to do it. I’m fast becoming a huge fan of your channel! Great job! Thanks, Bob
@@bobtrudo7732 I think it's a great tee-shirt slogan, don't you? If I end up using it and neglect to credit you let me know? I'll send you a free one either way if I do! Best, Matt
Hey Bob, I finally got all the pieces in place to use the quote you shared on a new t-shirt design at TeeSpring. If you'll contact me through the Nextlevelcarpentry.shop website email I'll send you a teeshirt with the quote for free as a token of appreciation for sharing it. Thanks again... Best, Matt
I'm catching up on some of your back catalog while my wife is out of town and I've got a little extra time on my hands! I like your version of a mobile base much better than the Delta version I have. I'm constantly messing with the cart and the legs to keep things level and true... It's probably time for me to fire up the welder and make my life a little easier.
I'm always thankful when I take a step back and eliminate a major annoyance by making something like a tablesaw base or miter saw stand. It often takes a reminder that very strong, useful things are surprisingly simple to make with the magic of a steel cutting chopsaw and a welder, especially compared to angle iron with slots and an absurd amount of bolts, nuts and lock washers! I say go for it... you'll be glad you did!😁
Hi Matt. Really liking your knowledgable content & educational video contribution. Sure has helped me out. I have 40 years of experience in the cabinet business and appreciate your help input. Ive learned a lot from you & always look forward to your next woodworking show. Will Maki
Welcome to Next Level Carpentry Will! The fact that you watched, much less commented, on this particular, far from mainstream video, tells me your claim to 40 years in the cabinet business is legit and makes your statement that you've 'learned a lot' here quite a compliment. Thank you... much appreciated! Best, Matt
Incredible. I don't believe I've watched a tutorial that provided as detailed an explanation as you did. I just got a new Delta Unisaw (type 2) with 52" fence but no guide, rails, or extension table. Watching this video just saved me about $1,000. Thank you and keep up the amazing work. Much appreciated.
Thx Jeremy... hope you're able to build your own custom base not only to save money but to gain function, stability and strength. Best, Matt BTW I hope you will check out next level carpentry where I've tried to build a reputation for thorough, in-depth, detailed videos with many examples showing how to put your new table saw to use😉😎
I've watched several of your videos and consistently impressed. At a time when people are mass producing videos with lots of flare and little substance by using creative editing and absurd titles, you are willing to give your audience info we can actually use without the need to try and manipulate YT's algorithm for your own gain. You're a giver, sir.
@@jeremythacker8919 Wow... thank you! I credit success of Next Level Carpentry as a channel to viewers like you who know and appreciate the difference between video types... anything you do to share the Channel and spread the word is appreciated too! Best, Matt
That’s the term. Everything else so far, including ‘glacket’ and ‘pea’ have been common nicknames or colloquialisms. The technical (and correct) term is ‘agitator’.
Matt Your videos are by far and away some of the best on the “net” if I was still in the trade I would make it mandatory for them to watch all your videos. I am curious how many carpenters have a speed square in their bags, but don’t know how to find an angle for something. A real class act. Don’t let the negative commenters get you don’t.!! Thanks for your hard work putting out excellent videos .
Good job. Must be a good feeling to finally quit procrastinating and get the task done. After watching this video I now have to get some tubing and angle iron and weld up a mobile base for my old Delta 10" Contractors Table Saw... Thanks a lot. :)
I don't think I have ever built exactly what you, or any of the other RUclipsrs I follow build in videos. But I learn something from every one. I can't predict when I'll apply it, but I'm sure I will. Thanks again. Great job.
No apologies. This is an amazing video. With all of your experience, real life work practice, having you talk on video and impart your thoughts is priceless. I'm a high school electrical teacher, after being a Union educated electrician for in the field for 14 years, and I miss working with experienced tradesman. Love your videos. Teach us all those tricks of the trade, please. Lest we forget.
Thanks for sayin' Matthew. Glad that you're part of the audience here with a perspective of appreciation. It's my goal to teach tricks of the trade to anyone who's willing to invest their time to watch! Best, Matt
Like that video. I appreciate all the extra explanations so nothing gets left out and it all became very clear. Especially all the notes on the equipment showing exchange or built date. Reminds me of railroad or military practice. I note the install date on my smoke detectors on the outside. Those have a 10 years battery service time. Occasionally I get curious whether they are due for exchange. Knowing the expiration date makes it easier to look for sales items in time.
Great video Matt. I enjoy seeing your in depth description on how and why you do what you do. Watching you inspires me to dig deeper and do better on my projects. I cant imagine the extra time and effort it takes planning, setting up and checking focal points to video the work you do. Much appreciated.
Hey Matt, Another awesome video. I have a Delta Unisaw like you, but I got mine in '99. I absolutely love it, and would never consider trading it in for those fancy new gizmo saws that are out there now. Thanks again, it's always a great day when Matt Jackson puts out another video. 2 thumbs up, my friend.
Almost as much as I do, Curtis! You see the value estimate of that phenolic slab in a comment below? If it's true your generosity is greater than you knew! Thanks again... Best, Matt
@@curtisschmidtlein5606 I used a special search tool and couldn't find it eitehr... commenter must have deleted it but it said closer to $1,000! Not sure the source or reference but makes me all the more grateful! 🤑🤑Best, Matt
I’m amazed you were able to trim the phenolic board with standard router bits. Usually it takes carbide tipped bits to cut. Also was very wise to drill and tap the holes, using machine bolts to hold it down. Ive seen wasted phenolic where people used wood screws with an undersized hole to hold down a board. For a router lift, I’d recommend the Canadian built Jessem Mast-R-Lift II. I’ve used it for several years now and have been quite pleased with it, especially with the lock down and leveling screws from the top. I’ve seen the Sawstop model that looks interesting with the 4 post chain driven system on the outer corners. The plate is larger than standard size which won’t make a difference for you since you’ll be cutting the hole out yourself. As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge, experience and talent. I always look forward to see what you have cooking.
I opened some cans of paint years ago to see what was in there making the noise. This was in my teen years and I am in my 50s now. Back then, the mixing balls were glass marbles. Just a little smaller than the ones you get as toys, but there were two per can, so I opened several cans just to get the marbles out. All the ones I collected were either white or black and always glass. I guess they could get them cheap.
Excellent content and educational as usual! I'd just bought a small beginners welding machine so I can learn welding skills and not worried about ruining a more expensive machine.
Awesome. Glad to see someone take pride in their tools and keep them running. I love the idea of documenting your changes/replacements on the piece itself. It's like a little time capsule.
Great video again! I believe that you take 'going the extra mile' into a new place. Sometimes your diversions seem unnecessary until you reach the finish product. Then I see the difference between a professional finish and make do (a much abused phrase, it only counts if it actually works! ;). Once again I find that my tool collection is too small, and I have to find a place to park my truck, because I need my shop back. My current project is a traditional two piece chest of drawers. I am trying to get a dark red cherry finish from much cheaper woods. So far, samples look like... well they don't look good. Thanks for sharing your process, OCD is dedication squared.. 😁
I'm just a hobby woodworker but I have never welded. Would love to see a video for welding 101 for woodworkers. I dont know where to even start. Great job on this project.
There are a bunch of videos available for both stick and mig arc welding and welding machines are becoming much more affordable google welding for beginners.... for starters. Good for this kind of project . Practice until you are happy with your results then make the project .... Easy.
Thanks for yet another outstanding video, particularly the paint tips. And, speaking of paint, the ball in the can is called a "knacker" Cuz: "Onomatopoeia. I don't wanna seeya, speakin' in a foreign tongue!"
Small shops make us work efficiently and portability is key to success. Huge shops that have a dedicated space for each machine are nice but, unless they're for full-scale production, seem inefficient to me... what do you think?😀 Best, Matt
For my Unisaw (early 1990s vintage) a few years ago, on a parts web site, was able to find a Delta cast iron wing for the right hand side of the table. It always annoyed me that Delta did not include that as part of the saw. I installed it and modified the gray laminate top to fit on the frame for my Unifence. I can’t say it improved saw performance a lot, but at the very least it looks proper now.
Bums me out that they quit making right tilt unisaws Capt I and it sounds like you know what I mean. The cast iron wing for the right side must be pretty cool... mine never had one when it was new, only the table extension you see. Best, Matt
Hey Matt, another great video! Wish I had a "proper" table saw to do something of this nature. Having said that, I've got to make some improvements to my contractor saw setup and like the idea of combining the metal framework with wood. Think it could work well in my small shop. Thanks again and as always respect for your craftsmanship Matt
Another nice video, I always enjoy watching and learning from you! I use a Bora Portamate Base, Model PM 3500, rated at 3500 lbs for mine SawStop Contractor TS. It has two fixed Steel wheels and two Steel Caster Wheels that lift the Base and lock it when lowered. I have the 52-inch Fence, and the Rails are 69 -inches long, so I'll have a similar worktop. I plan on using doubling up on 3/4 MDF and laminating it on top.
Hey Chefm, you might consider laminating both top and bottom of the double MDF top since humidity is apt to expand the bottom leaving a belly in the top. I know it was necessary with my first tops on this saw when they were regular particleboard. Using HDF that's water resistant might avoid the necessity and possibly doubling up 3/4" MDF might make it unnecessary. Sounds like you've got a stout system though... Best, Matt
Great video Matt! I'm always frustrated with the finish any time I paint metal with a spray can. I will definitely use your tips next time. I would never have thought to tap and bolt the top down, or use a tap in the drill. Two thumbs up for creativity 👍👍
There's a few little tricks for getting rattle can paint jobs to come out acceptably and I hope the tips you found here help you get better results going forward. Thanks for watching and commenting on this one Terry! Best, Matt
Working alone in the shop would be a good title for a video, including what you would need for an emergency. Such as a phone to call 911 and bandages ,tweezers for splinters and so much more.We all know when working around machines , things can go wrong in a instant and a phone that is on at all times is essential. the corners on a fresh sawn board or panel is sharp as a razor and can open your arm in a very nasty way. Safety glasses ,ear plugs or ear muffs should be a must .The list goes on. Most of us work alone , so let's be prepared.
I hadn’t noticed that cart under your saw before. I have been thinking of putting one under my saw and incorporating an over arm dust collection/ blade guard, so thanks for the tips. I heard you say that you were going to buy a router lift, just a heads up there is a shop built one that was originally in shopnotes 121 that is excellent. Steve Ramsey and others have built it on their channels. Thanks again Matt!
I know the rattle ball by another term/name... maybe it's a relic term but I'll wait till it shows up before awarding the over-hyped '5-star' award to whoever gives the correct (ie: my version of correct) name for the rattler... 😏 Best, Matt Update: this little teaser didn't work out as expected so I'll settle it this way: The name I know the spray can mixing ball by is a "glacket" although the actual spelling might be a little different. I learned that arcane word from a list in Reader's Digest Magazine decades ago and it stuck with me. I called Rust Oleum this afternoon and the nice woman in technical/product support never heard the rattler called anything but a mixing ball. She never heard it called a "pea" either... go figure. So I'll send 4 stars to everyone who made the effort to add a comment with the name they know/found. To Peter Blackwood I give 5-stars because the Tooth Fairy story is even better than my glacket term. I'll have to accept a -5 stars myself for asking a question that apparently even I don't have an answer to! 🙄😒
I know the glass rattle ball as a cat-eye marble. I always take them out when my rattle cans are empty. My son has a bucket full of them. Some have very unique colors inside. Some are just bubbled glass balls.
Matt, the term you recall 'glackett' is a Sniglet. Sniglets were were a series of books / articles in the early 80s I believe which were words created for common occurrences / items without a proper name. They were developed by comedian Rich Hall who also appeared on SNL. Glackett was the sound the little ball in a spray paint made when shaken. Hope you enjoy this tidbit. LOVE your videos. Please keep them coming. -Rob
@@robyballard8504 5 Stars to you for your comment... you're absolutely correct! I was (and am) a huge fan of Sniglets and have used them frequently to the extent I forgot them as the origin of 'glackett'! No WONDER the lady at Rust Oleum didn't have a clue what I was talking about! I can't tell you how your reminder settles my mind... of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most 🤨😮😎 Best, Matt BTW Another favorite is the word 'frust' which is the little bit of dust that never gets swept into a dustpan 😂
Being unable to work steel (tools, no welder or welding experience) I would be tempted to imitate the concept with a wood structure. If you can build a house, deck bridge or 20 stories building out of wood, must be stronk enough for the shop tools.
Was looking for some ideas for my 1995 Unisaw table replacement which from storage was warped and delaminated even worse than yours 😮. Funny I had the exact same router insert setup as you and will be doing away with it as well in favor of a dedicated table. If it interests you I could send pics of my build which will be starting soon as this top is preventing the fence to travel past the flat cast iron top, rendering the saw almost useless.
Coincidentally, I'll actually be installing a new MLCS PowerLift Pro router lift setup in this very table within the next couple weeks. Still no room for a dedicated table here but best of luck with your build and upgrade Dewey!
Likely more than 300 bucks! Based on what I have seen. I was going to build a router table top from one. I ended up with phenolic covered baltic birch.
Best bike I've ever owned Dan... and you're right, it's a 2017. Hard to believe this is the 3rd season on it. Not familiar with the Scott Ransom but they make great bikes IMHO! More videos on the way... Best, Matt
If you look on the Global Industrial website and search for Phenolic Resin Safety Edge Top you will find a 1" thick workbench surface that is 60x30 made from phenolic resin. I don't find any details that say it is solid phenolic resin, but given the complaints that it "breaks screws", I can only assume it is. Currently it is advertised for $287 + tax + shipping. (Hopefully you can pick it up at the warehouse, its $175 shipping!) I doubt it is the same as the "$400 slab" that NLC installed as his Unisaw extension table, and I know it is not the $1200 3/4"x48x96 sheet of phenolic resin board that I found through several plastics suppliers online. I wonder if anyone has any recent experience with the Global Industrial version? @NextLevelCarpentry great video as always.
Put a *floor lock* on the left front corner of your base. That will keep it from tipping or moving. Don't put it in the middle or it will teeter totter.
I’m wondering if it would be useful to add two hand openings to the end of the phenolic surface. For jockeying my Unisaw around on it’s mobile base, it’s much easier to do with that rather than grasping the corners of the fence rail and the corner of the top.... Fantastic upgrade on your saw. That top ought to be pretty much bulletproof!!
Great idea Capt I... never thought of that. Personally I don't think I'd like having holes there all the time... seems like it would be a problem for something at some time... but your comment inspires me to add a pull handle that stows under the top somehow. Thanks for watching and commenting here at Next Level Carpentry! Best, Matt
Would you be so kind as to provide all of your measurements for each tube and for the height of the support leg? I am interested in building this exact mobile base. Thank you!!!
Hey Matt, and thank you for providing yet another stellar video for us to learn from that truly is at the Next Level! Like so many, I reaally appreciate all the effort you put into your videos and watching your craftsmanship is just impressive! I have recently acquired a 1972 Delta Rockwell Unisaw and I am planning the restoration of the Old Girl. I would really like to know more about your zero clearance insert; is that the original insert that you've had milled to accept the wooden insert? Thanks again for another great video!
It's actually Stuck in the Air... a royalty free music track available to anyone with Creator Studio Free Audio Library... sure sounds like Kraftwerk though! Best, Matt
When I played marbles with my grand-dad he said go get your pea-shooter. I said what's a pea-shooter. He said, you get it out of a paint spray can. So it's called a 'pea'. Great question.
I like the design of your mobile base. I plan on using it as inspiration to build my own. I would like to know what size casters you used for this mobile base. Are they 2" or 3" casters?
Pretty sure they're 2-1/2"... most important is that you get high quality ones rated for the weight you'll be putting on them or you'll be disappointed when they develop flat spots over time. Regardless I don't think I'd go much smaller than 2 1/2" since smaller casters get hung up more easily on little chips or rocks on your shop floor... Best, Matt
Forgive me if I just missed it....but where did you purchase your phenolic sheet? Thanks...and you have earned another sub...keep these videos for us novices coming.
What you missed is my shout out/thank you to Curtiss, a friend who salvaged a number of these amazing phenolic sheets and was kind enough to give one from his stash to me. I absolutely LOVE it as a work surface/extension table! As I understand it they're extremely expensive if purchased outright. Check construction salvage yards, etc and you might get lucky Jeremy... good luck? Best, Matt
Hi Matt, I just acquired an '89 Unisaw that's very similar to yours, but my mountain bike is a Specialized :-). I'd love to hear any tips you have for tuning up that saw -- yours seems to run like a top!
Nice score on that tablesaw Scott... funny that your name is Scott but you ride a Specialized... and I ride a Scott😁😎 I don't have much specific to 'our' tablesaw but this video shows important maintenance for cast iron, regardless of brand: ruclips.net/video/YIE50o5pS6U/видео.html Best, Matt
WOW! One of the most useful vids I've seen! I have a Unisaw I bought recently, looks zackly like yours, Unifence and all. The extension table was pretty beat up, so I cut a piece of Aranco ¾" ply to replace it. For now it's just sitting there as an organizing table while I clean up the small shop. I need to rabbet the edge, mortice for the bolt heads, and cover it with Formica. I had not planned to make a roller base, but you got me thinking. I don't have a welder, but why not just use 2x4 rails for the base? I think I can make a decent base. Please comment. Looking forward to the vid on motor housing and dust collection.
Only make a mobile base if you need one Jim... if you've got a dedicated space to park your saw it's always better IMHO. My shop needs to be mobile and this arrangement works great. A wood base is probably going to be cludgy because of the weight and function required but with some ingenuity you can probably come up with something functional. Not sure of your resources but you might consider getting the steel and fabricating it and then just hiring someone to just do the welding part. Truth be told I'd have a nicer looking base if I hired a 'welder' instead of a 'grinder', right? 🙄😋😎 Best, Matt
Thanks Matt. My shop is pretty small, so mobility would really help. And I've bought some steel lately, and been sticker shocked! I'm afraid that's not gonna happen. But wood is cheap and easy. A perimeter frame top and bottom, stiffened with ply, uprights bolted under the extension complete it. I've built a few cabinets for home and shop, and none have fallen apart! Engineers always over-design stuff.
@@jimmacaulay844 I hear you loud and clear. I've gone both ways to get around problems, especially when $$ was harder to come by than time and energy. Make sure you get wheels of the right material so they don't get flat spots or wallow-out the axle holes from the weight. Best, Matt
Great job Matt. I enjoy your videos immensely,, Thank you for taking the time and effort to do them!!! I was wondering if your motor on your tablet saw gets too hot being enclosed . I have an older tablet saw , the motor comes out the back with an open base stan . I am wanting to cut down the dust in my small shop and this is a big culprit in my dust collection . Have been reluctant to enclose this because I was afraid the motor would burn up for lack of air movement. It gets a fair amount of dust now . Thank you Gary
Hi Gary you know I don't have any problems with the motor overheating but then again I don't use the table saw for extended periods without the dust collection system running which pulls more than an adequate amount of air through the cabinet as near as I can tell. My plexiglass enclosure for the motor does a decent job of containing dust and you should also know that I blow out the inside of the cabinet frequently with compressed air while the dust collector is running so dust isn't sticking on things which I'm thinking would be more of a heat problem than the enclosure itself. Best, Matt
You're welcome for the video Tim... thank YOU for watching. I wish I'd shown an 'after' shot of the saw's stability once that heavy phenolic top was added. I put all my weight on the saw end and it didn't lift the other end so no wheelie bar is necessary. I'll be adding even more weight later with a router lift and storage for miter gauges and blades so I don't anticipate ever adding one. All saws are different so a tip-stop of some sort may be necessary for other setups. Good thing is that it would be very simple to add. Best, Matt
Not yet but do hope to get a RouterLift Pro from MLCS someday intending to install it and show it off a bit... but don't hold your breath, it will probably be awhile😯 Best, Matt
The outfeed roller build video is in the pipeline behind the Pallet Wood Door Build Series Chris... I'm anxious to show them off too! I've got most of the details thought out an key hardware purchased and waiting... waiting for the time to tackle it. Best, Matt
I'm about 3/4 complete on my base. Using yours for inspiration :-) One question Matt. How do you stop the swivel wheel from turning on it's pivot? My wheel locks but wants to pivot around its pivot which doesn't inspire a lot of confidence when pushing sheet goods across the table. Love to hear how yours works for you.
Usually the locked swivel wheel is enough to keep the saw from moving but if I'm pushing something heavy over the saw I'll put a small block of wood behind the wheel to keep the ends of the table from moving. The extra Mobility is worth the little extra trouble of keeping it from moving once in awhile and I hope you find that to be the case with your saw. Best, Matt
Another alternative would be to make a brake block from two wide wedges with rubber strips for traction, once in place put one wedge on top of the other rubber out and tap together until the wheel is off the ground, I once made a dolly for a saw bench that was raised to park and lowered to roll. It was actuated on eccentric mounts .
The top is a phenolic restroom partition from a project where the wrong size and color were ordered. My good friend Curtis had the sense to retrieve some of these from a job site dumpster and I was the Grateful recipient of one of his salvaged pieces. I suspect that certain toilet partition manufacturers might have an abundance of misordered pieces for sale at Pennies on the dollar and can attest to the fact it would be worth the research to find that sort of material on the cheap. Best, Matt
I've not had any overheating problems with my setup and I think it's pretty similar to any table saws enclosure when Dust collection is used. I suppose it has something to do with air circulation caused by the dust collector itself but maybe if a person ran the Saw for hours doing heavy work with a cover on and no dust collector running that might cause heat issues. Thanks for watching and commenting! Best, Matt
May I ask about the structural integerity of the steel base after the rear tube was cut for the dust collection port? My older Powermatic 66 has the dust collection port very low Ike the Unisaw. I’ve been worried about fabrication the rear of the mobile base so close to the cabinet (like yours) for fear of the notched tube steel not being able to hold the weight of the saw. Did you do anything to reinforce the notching of the tube?
Great question Byron. My solution to the very issue in question was to weld in a piece of 4" thinwall steel pipe to add strength once I took a 'horse bite' out of the 1x2 steel tube that makes up the rear member of the base. Look closely starting here in the video: ruclips.net/video/aV1uDDWdyhI/видео.html since that section is visible on the edges of the video frame. If you're not able to see what I'm talking about in the video anywhere let me know and I'll take a couple close-up photos of that section and post them on Pinterest. I can tell by the wording of your question that you'll be able to understand and adapt this solution if you find it necessary and choose to. Best, Matt You can see it here too: ruclips.net/video/aV1uDDWdyhI/видео.html with the base upside down before painting...
Matt, thanks for sharing your tips and tricks. I have Unisaw that needs an update on original fence style setup.. What style fence are you using on your Unisaw? Thanks, Ron
Still using the original Delta Unifence that came with the saw when it was new back in 1982... if you can believe that. I have purchased replacement 'wear parts' for it because the little nylon glide buttons and tabs wear down with use but that's the only maintenance I've ever needed to do on it. That probably doesn't help much but I guess I'm saying I'd be inclined to overhaul the existing Unifence before I'd work to replace it... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you for your time. Unfortunately I have the round tubing style guide bars which support the fence. It's pure junk in my opinion! Thanks for reply.
@@battime5418 Yeah, the Unifence revolutionized Delta's old, lame round tube guide bars... I worked with one of those old ones before what I have now. Wonder if you can find a Unifence on Ebay or somewhere. Otherwise you should be able to get a Beismeyer fence that's made to fit Unisaw. That's what I'd have if I didn't have the Unifence... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you. Last question. What is the name of insert you use, that has a replaceable track within the blade insert. Thank you. I search and could not find the name. NO MORE QUESTIONS-:)
@@battime5418 LOL... only wish I had time to give better answers. There's pics on this page: www.pinterest.com/thetimbertailor/next-level-carpentry-project-photos/ that show closeups of that insert. It's long since gone out of production but FYI I'm working with Greg's Garage on RUclips to re-create that plate with hopes of making a limited run of them for sale... stay tuned? You might find a used one online somewhere in the meantime... Best, Matt
Hi Ray... the angle I used for parts of the mobile stand is 2x2x1/4"... pretty beefy stuff but it was 'modular' with 2x2" square tube and 1x2 rectangular tube used for other parts of the base. Since there's such a small quantity of any one size material and weight isn't an issue I tend to over-build stuff like this. In other words you could probably economize in both weight and size if necessary and still have a more-than-sturdy mobile stand. Best, Matt
Do you have a video showing how you made your dust collector shroud for your table saw and how it works with your dust collector? I have the exact same saw I would like to do something similar or possibly exactly what you did. If you have plans I would be willing to purchase.
Hey Doug, I don't have official 'plans' and don't like to push people to sign up to Next Level Carpentry at Patreon but, since you see enough value in that dust shroud to offer to buy plans, I'll tell you that if you DO sign up as a patron you'll have access to a video that I did just a few weeks ago showing exactly what you're asking for.
FWIW You're welcome to just figure it out from what you see in this video for free but take note that I had to modify the shape of the enclosure because the one shown in this video was too restrictive when the blade is fully raised and cracked the Lexan... which is why I did the patron-only video showing the modified profile along with a pretty good look into the high points of the build process.
Best,
Matt
Matt, you have a nice personal style. You make it enjoyable to watch you do things.
I like you do the best professional job l am capable of on shop & client cabinetry. Nice to hear from you & l appreciate you taking time to respond to me. I'll be looking forward to your next woodworking show. Will Maki
Recently finish a shop in my back yard. I very glad I stumbled across your video. I'm 67 years old and learning. Hopefully I can learn a lot from your videos. Thanks a bunch.
Never apologize for your length of videos or explanations. I’m pretty experienced and still learn alot from your details. We all have a fast forward button to. Cheers.
When this video first came out I just watched it for entertainment value. Lo and behold a year later I got an old Unisaw from a friend and now I'm back here because I need a mobile base for it, and I don't like the 6-wheeled ones that are available commercially.
Wow you've got a good memory Aaron! Main problem I see with commercially available mobile bases is that they have to make them Universal so they adapt to many different saws. That's what I like about making custom mobile bases because it can be built specifically for the piece of equipment at hand and therefore be very streamlined and include all the features I want and no features I don't want. I will say that I'm not 100% happy where I moved the wheels to clear the dust collection port and wish I would have moved them the other direction. As it is the thought is almost a little bit to mobile so think that through a bit when you're planning and designing. Best, Matt
I can't tell if you're everyone's favorite uncle or everyone's best neighbor. Awesome to watch you work.
A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't. That one's been around the block a few times.
I have that exact unisaw and am going to begin restoring it. This couldn't have come at a better time. Thank you!
Good luck with your Unisaw... they're durable, accurate and reliable as proven by the true test of time. Best, Matt
Me too!
Looking good. Three wheels rather than four is a nice idea and eliminates wobble on an uneven floor. I really like that.
It wouldn't do if it was unstable but, since the mobile base is so welded/rigid it works great. Thanks for commenting here.... Best, Matt
Hi Matt, your style reminds me of a Jim Kwik expression that goes, “How you do anything is how you do everything.” I really appreciate your attention to detail in the work that you do and in your explanations on how to do it. I’m fast becoming a huge fan of your channel! Great job! Thanks, Bob
Love the quote Bob... hope you don't mind if I adopt it? It's an instant favorite! Thanks for watching and commenting here... Best, Matt
Go for it! It's a perfect fit.
(I think it's actually a Zen Buddhist saying.)
@@bobtrudo7732 I think it's a great tee-shirt slogan, don't you? If I end up using it and neglect to credit you let me know? I'll send you a free one either way if I do! Best, Matt
Hey Bob, I finally got all the pieces in place to use the quote you shared on a new t-shirt design at TeeSpring. If you'll contact me through the Nextlevelcarpentry.shop website email I'll send you a teeshirt with the quote for free as a token of appreciation for sharing it. Thanks again... Best, Matt
This must be one of your best videos - at least for me. Cheers and thanks again.
I'm catching up on some of your back catalog while my wife is out of town and I've got a little extra time on my hands! I like your version of a mobile base much better than the Delta version I have. I'm constantly messing with the cart and the legs to keep things level and true... It's probably time for me to fire up the welder and make my life a little easier.
I'm always thankful when I take a step back and eliminate a major annoyance by making something like a tablesaw base or miter saw stand. It often takes a reminder that very strong, useful things are surprisingly simple to make with the magic of a steel cutting chopsaw and a welder, especially compared to angle iron with slots and an absurd amount of bolts, nuts and lock washers! I say go for it... you'll be glad you did!😁
All of your videos are so professional. I’m impressed as always.
Hi Matt. Really liking your knowledgable content & educational video contribution. Sure has helped me out. I have 40 years of experience in the cabinet business and appreciate your help input. Ive learned a lot from you & always look forward to your next woodworking show. Will Maki
Welcome to Next Level Carpentry Will! The fact that you watched, much less commented, on this particular, far from mainstream video, tells me your claim to 40 years in the cabinet business is legit and makes your statement that you've 'learned a lot' here quite a compliment. Thank you... much appreciated!
Best,
Matt
Incredible. I don't believe I've watched a tutorial that provided as detailed an explanation as you did. I just got a new Delta Unisaw (type 2) with 52" fence but no guide, rails, or extension table. Watching this video just saved me about $1,000. Thank you and keep up the amazing work. Much appreciated.
Thx Jeremy... hope you're able to build your own custom base not only to save money but to gain function, stability and strength.
Best, Matt
BTW I hope you will check out next level carpentry where I've tried to build a reputation for thorough, in-depth, detailed videos with many examples showing how to put your new table saw to use😉😎
I've watched several of your videos and consistently impressed. At a time when people are mass producing videos with lots of flare and little substance by using creative editing and absurd titles, you are willing to give your audience info we can actually use without the need to try and manipulate YT's algorithm for your own gain. You're a giver, sir.
@@jeremythacker8919 Wow... thank you! I credit success of Next Level Carpentry as a channel to viewers like you who know and appreciate the difference between video types... anything you do to share the Channel and spread the word is appreciated too! Best, Matt
I believe the ball in the rattle can is called an “agitator” !
That’s the term. Everything else so far, including ‘glacket’ and ‘pea’ have been common nicknames or colloquialisms. The technical (and correct) term is ‘agitator’.
I would contend the ball inside a spray paint can is a "pea" (within the paint manufacturing community), and it acts as an agitator.
Several spray Paint can makers in NZ use metal washers, cheap and if you are up to recovering them, reusable ...
Another benefit to the oversized top is the ability to clamp things down to the surface. Nice work!
Matt
Your videos are by far and away some of the best on the “net” if I was still in the trade I would make it mandatory for them to watch all your videos.
I am curious how many carpenters have a speed square in their bags, but don’t know how to find an angle for something.
A real class act. Don’t let the negative commenters get you don’t.!!
Thanks for your hard work putting out excellent videos .
'preciate your comments here Larry! They're definitely a salve for wounds inflicted by ignorant trolls so I thank you personally... Best, Matt
Thank you so much for sharing.
Good job. Must be a good feeling to finally quit procrastinating and get the task done. After watching this video I now have to get some tubing and angle iron and weld up a mobile base for my old Delta 10" Contractors Table Saw... Thanks a lot. :)
That base is way better than mine out of 2 x 4. Another Matt Jackson inspiration.
If ONLY we could weld 2x4's, right?! 🙄😂😎 Best, Matt
I truly appreciate your attention to details in carpentry and are inspirational to me. Thank you and I hope you keep the videos coming.
Thank thanks, Joe Joe! Best Best, Matt Matt 😂😁😎
I don't think I have ever built exactly what you, or any of the other RUclipsrs I follow build in videos. But I learn something from every one. I can't predict when I'll apply it, but I'm sure I will. Thanks again. Great job.
Thank you, I really like your expertise and teaching ability.
You're quite welcome Richard... I really try so it's always nice to receive affirmation... thank YOU! Best, Matt
Top work Matt a joy to watch 👍🏻
Thanks Michael... the new top is a joy to work on compared to the old, sagged, beat up one it replaced! Best, Matt
Another great video, Matt. Thank you!
No apologies. This is an amazing video. With all of your experience, real life work practice, having you talk on video and impart your thoughts is priceless. I'm a high school electrical teacher, after being a Union educated electrician for in the field for 14 years, and I miss working with experienced tradesman. Love your videos. Teach us all those tricks of the trade, please. Lest we forget.
Thanks for sayin' Matthew. Glad that you're part of the audience here with a perspective of appreciation. It's my goal to teach tricks of the trade to anyone who's willing to invest their time to watch! Best, Matt
Like that video. I appreciate all the extra explanations so nothing gets left out and it all became very clear. Especially all the notes on the equipment showing exchange or built date. Reminds me of railroad or military practice. I note the install date on my smoke detectors on the outside. Those have a 10 years battery service time. Occasionally I get curious whether they are due for exchange. Knowing the expiration date makes it easier to look for sales items in time.
My first of your videos. Was rather nice to watch and learn from. Keep up the great work!
Great video Matt. I enjoy seeing your in depth description on how and why you do what you do. Watching you inspires me to dig deeper and do better on my projects. I cant imagine the extra time and effort it takes planning, setting up and checking focal points to video the work you do. Much appreciated.
Hey Matt,
Another awesome video. I have a Delta Unisaw like you, but I got mine in '99. I absolutely love it, and would never consider trading it in for those fancy new gizmo saws that are out there now. Thanks again, it's always a great day when Matt Jackson puts out another video. 2 thumbs up, my friend.
Thanks for double thumbs-ups Nathan... a comment like yours always makes a great day for me! Best, Matt
Another good one, Matt - I always enjoy your videos. I really loved the walk off!
I really like your frame and the new table phenolic resin board top. Smart design that can be disassembled.
I'm happy for you. I know how it feels to complete something well that needed to be done for years.
Thanks Matt. Another great job.
Great video Matt. I have been thinking about doing some metal work to compliment my wood projects and this inspired me. Thanks!
Great video and well timed as I need to build a base for my new-to-me 1960's Unisaw. Subscribed!
Sweet, David... and thanks for the sub! Unisaw is a tried and true workhorse, well worth any time and $$ you invest to tune it up. Enjoy! Best, Matt
You're awesome Matt! Keep it up!
Very nice as usual! I really like the phenolic top.
Almost as much as I do, Curtis! You see the value estimate of that phenolic slab in a comment below? If it's true your generosity is greater than you knew! Thanks again... Best, Matt
Can't seem to find the estimate. Went through the comments 3 times. I'm just glad I had it to give.
@@curtisschmidtlein5606 I used a special search tool and couldn't find it eitehr... commenter must have deleted it but it said closer to $1,000! Not sure the source or reference but makes me all the more grateful! 🤑🤑Best, Matt
I’m amazed you were able to trim the phenolic board with standard router bits. Usually it takes carbide tipped bits to cut. Also was very wise to drill and tap the holes, using machine bolts to hold it down. Ive seen wasted phenolic where people used wood screws with an undersized hole to hold down a board.
For a router lift, I’d recommend the Canadian built Jessem Mast-R-Lift II. I’ve used it for several years now and have been quite pleased with it, especially with the lock down and leveling screws from the top. I’ve seen the Sawstop model that looks interesting with the 4 post chain driven system on the outer corners. The plate is larger than standard size which won’t make a difference for you since you’ll be cutting the hole out yourself.
As always, thanks for sharing your knowledge, experience and talent. I always look forward to see what you have cooking.
His bits are carbide.
I opened some cans of paint years ago to see what was in there making the noise. This was in my teen years and I am in my 50s now. Back then, the mixing balls were glass marbles. Just a little smaller than the ones you get as toys, but there were two per can, so I opened several cans just to get the marbles out. All the ones I collected were either white or black and always glass. I guess they could get them cheap.
Excellent content and educational as usual! I'd just bought a small beginners welding machine so I can learn welding skills and not worried about ruining a more expensive machine.
Interesting clip, thanks for sharing.
Great content Matt, I like the table saw rolling frame idea a lot, you’ve got me thinking again.
Awesome. Glad to see someone take pride in their tools and keep them running. I love the idea of documenting your changes/replacements on the piece itself. It's like a little time capsule.
Great video again! I believe that you take 'going the extra mile' into a new place. Sometimes your diversions seem unnecessary until you reach the finish product. Then I see the difference between a professional finish and make do (a much abused phrase, it only counts if it actually works! ;). Once again I find that my tool collection is too small, and I have to find a place to park my truck, because I need my shop back. My current project is a traditional two piece chest of drawers. I am trying to get a dark red cherry finish from much cheaper woods. So far, samples look like... well they don't look good. Thanks for sharing your process, OCD is dedication squared.. 😁
Everything you do is so darned clean. I looked up that PR board. Wow that's stuff is expensive.
I'm just a hobby woodworker but I have never welded. Would love to see a video for welding 101 for woodworkers. I dont know where to even start. Great job on this project.
There are a bunch of videos available for both stick and mig arc welding and welding machines are becoming much more affordable google welding for beginners.... for starters. Good for this kind of project . Practice until you are happy with your results then make the project .... Easy.
Oh Yeah, Woodcraft timber welding rods are not available, stick to glue for timber joining ..... 🙃🙂
Thanks for yet another outstanding video, particularly the paint tips. And, speaking of paint, the ball in the can is called a "knacker" Cuz: "Onomatopoeia. I don't wanna seeya, speakin' in a foreign tongue!"
Great video love it
Chip is sure working hard in this episode.
Enjoyable and learned quite a bit. Hoping, to see how your mitre saw stand was built and why, rather than construction lumber or plywood?
love it. nice to have the room, my shop is too small
Small shops make us work efficiently and portability is key to success. Huge shops that have a dedicated space for each machine are nice but, unless they're for full-scale production, seem inefficient to me... what do you think?😀 Best, Matt
You're right as usual.😁😁
Another great video Matt.
For my Unisaw (early 1990s vintage) a few years ago, on a parts web site, was able to find a Delta cast iron wing for the right hand side of the table. It always annoyed me that Delta did not include that as part of the saw. I installed it and modified the gray laminate top to fit on the frame for my Unifence. I can’t say it improved saw performance a lot, but at the very least it looks proper now.
Bums me out that they quit making right tilt unisaws Capt I and it sounds like you know what I mean. The cast iron wing for the right side must be pretty cool... mine never had one when it was new, only the table extension you see. Best, Matt
Hey Matt, another great video! Wish I had a "proper" table saw to do something of this nature. Having said that, I've got to make some improvements to my contractor saw setup and like the idea of combining the metal framework with wood. Think it could work well in my small shop. Thanks again and as always respect for your craftsmanship Matt
Another nice video, I always enjoy watching and learning from you!
I use a Bora Portamate Base, Model PM 3500, rated at 3500 lbs for mine SawStop Contractor TS. It has two fixed Steel wheels and two Steel Caster Wheels that lift the Base and lock it when lowered. I have the 52-inch Fence, and the Rails are 69 -inches long, so I'll have a similar worktop. I plan on using doubling up on 3/4 MDF and laminating it on top.
That's 1500lbs, not 3500lbs.
Hey Chefm, you might consider laminating both top and bottom of the double MDF top since humidity is apt to expand the bottom leaving a belly in the top. I know it was necessary with my first tops on this saw when they were regular particleboard. Using HDF that's water resistant might avoid the necessity and possibly doubling up 3/4" MDF might make it unnecessary. Sounds like you've got a stout system though... Best, Matt
Great video Matt! I'm always frustrated with the finish any time I paint metal with a spray can. I will definitely use your tips next time.
I would never have thought to tap and bolt the top down, or use a tap in the drill. Two thumbs up for creativity 👍👍
There's a few little tricks for getting rattle can paint jobs to come out acceptably and I hope the tips you found here help you get better results going forward. Thanks for watching and commenting on this one Terry! Best, Matt
Working alone in the shop would be a good title for a video, including what you would need for an emergency. Such as a phone to call 911 and bandages ,tweezers for splinters and so much more.We all know when working around machines , things can go wrong in a instant and a phone that is on at all times is essential. the corners on a fresh sawn board or panel is sharp as a razor and can open your arm in a very nasty way. Safety glasses ,ear plugs or ear muffs should be a must .The list goes on. Most of us work alone , so let's be prepared.
I hadn’t noticed that cart under your saw before. I have been thinking of putting one under my saw and incorporating an over arm dust collection/ blade guard, so thanks for the tips. I heard you say that you were going to buy a router lift, just a heads up there is a shop built one that was originally in shopnotes 121 that is excellent. Steve Ramsey and others have built it on their channels. Thanks again Matt!
A grinder and paint, make a welder what he ain't. ;)
cool project.
I know the rattle ball by another term/name... maybe it's a relic term but I'll wait till it shows up before awarding the over-hyped '5-star' award to whoever gives the correct (ie: my version of correct) name for the rattler... 😏 Best, Matt
Update: this little teaser didn't work out as expected so I'll settle it this way:
The name I know the spray can mixing ball by is a "glacket" although the actual spelling might be a little different. I learned that arcane word from a list in Reader's Digest Magazine decades ago and it stuck with me. I called Rust Oleum this afternoon and the nice woman in technical/product support never heard the rattler called anything but a mixing ball. She never heard it called a "pea" either... go figure. So I'll send 4 stars to everyone who made the effort to add a comment with the name they know/found. To Peter Blackwood I give 5-stars because the Tooth Fairy story is even better than my glacket term. I'll have to accept a -5 stars myself for asking a question that apparently even I don't have an answer to! 🙄😒
I know the glass rattle ball as a cat-eye marble. I always take them out when my rattle cans are empty. My son has a bucket full of them. Some have very unique colors inside. Some are just bubbled glass balls.
Matt, the term you recall 'glackett' is a Sniglet. Sniglets were were a series of books / articles in the early 80s I believe which were words created for common occurrences / items without a proper name. They were developed by comedian Rich Hall who also appeared on SNL.
Glackett was the sound the little ball in a spray paint made when shaken.
Hope you enjoy this tidbit.
LOVE your videos. Please keep them coming.
-Rob
@@robyballard8504 5 Stars to you for your comment... you're absolutely correct! I was (and am) a huge fan of Sniglets and have used them frequently to the extent I forgot them as the origin of 'glackett'! No WONDER the lady at Rust Oleum didn't have a clue what I was talking about! I can't tell you how your reminder settles my mind... of all the things I've lost I miss my mind the most 🤨😮😎 Best, Matt BTW Another favorite is the word 'frust' which is the little bit of dust that never gets swept into a dustpan 😂
Being unable to work steel (tools, no welder or welding experience) I would be tempted to imitate the concept with a wood structure. If you can build a house, deck bridge or 20 stories building out of wood, must be stronk enough for the shop tools.
Sure can, Rolf... the trade-off is usually bulkiness so it's a matter of choosing what works best for you. Best, Matt
The ball is called a ball ! :)
Was looking for some ideas for my 1995 Unisaw table replacement which from storage was warped and delaminated even worse than yours 😮. Funny I had the exact same router insert setup as you and will be doing away with it as well in favor of a dedicated table. If it interests you I could send pics of my build which will be starting soon as this top is preventing the fence to travel past the flat cast iron top, rendering the saw almost useless.
Coincidentally, I'll actually be installing a new MLCS PowerLift Pro router lift setup in this very table within the next couple weeks. Still no room for a dedicated table here but best of luck with your build and upgrade Dewey!
Likely more than 300 bucks! Based on what I have seen. I was going to build a router table top from one. I ended up with phenolic covered baltic birch.
Hey nice Spark! Looks like a ‘17 vintage? A Scott Ransom is on my n+1 bike list haha. Keep up the great vids Matt.
Best bike I've ever owned Dan... and you're right, it's a 2017. Hard to believe this is the 3rd season on it. Not familiar with the Scott Ransom but they make great bikes IMHO! More videos on the way... Best, Matt
If you look on the Global Industrial website and search for Phenolic Resin Safety Edge Top you will find a 1" thick workbench surface that is 60x30 made from phenolic resin. I don't find any details that say it is solid phenolic resin, but given the complaints that it "breaks screws", I can only assume it is. Currently it is advertised for $287 + tax + shipping. (Hopefully you can pick it up at the warehouse, its $175 shipping!) I doubt it is the same as the "$400 slab" that NLC installed as his Unisaw extension table, and I know it is not the $1200 3/4"x48x96 sheet of phenolic resin board that I found through several plastics suppliers online. I wonder if anyone has any recent experience with the Global Industrial version?
@NextLevelCarpentry great video as always.
Put a *floor lock* on the left front corner of your base. That will keep it from tipping or moving. Don't put it in the middle or it will teeter totter.
I’m wondering if it would be useful to add two hand openings to the end of the phenolic surface. For jockeying my Unisaw around on it’s mobile base, it’s much easier to do with that rather than grasping the corners of the fence rail and the corner of the top.... Fantastic upgrade on your saw. That top ought to be pretty much bulletproof!!
Great idea Capt I... never thought of that. Personally I don't think I'd like having holes there all the time... seems like it would be a problem for something at some time... but your comment inspires me to add a pull handle that stows under the top somehow. Thanks for watching and commenting here at Next Level Carpentry! Best, Matt
Would you be so kind as to provide all of your measurements for each tube and for the height of the support leg? I am interested in building this exact mobile base. Thank you!!!
Thanks for sharing that
hahaha you replaced the top on 26.11. thats my birth day....
Hey Matt, and thank you for providing yet another stellar video for us to learn from that truly is at the Next Level! Like so many, I reaally appreciate all the effort you put into your videos and watching your craftsmanship is just impressive! I have recently acquired a 1972 Delta Rockwell Unisaw and I am planning the restoration of the Old Girl. I would really like to know more about your zero clearance insert; is that the original insert that you've had milled to accept the wooden insert? Thanks again for another great video!
The ball is a “pea” 😀
I've always called it a Widget (thanks Guiness), but it's also known as a Pea.
NEXT LEVEL KRAFTWERK! @ 16:58 German fabrication music for good metalworkings. DAS IST GUT, JA.
It's actually Stuck in the Air... a royalty free music track available to anyone with Creator Studio Free Audio Library... sure sounds like Kraftwerk though! Best, Matt
You should do a video on building a workbench.
nice
When I played marbles with my grand-dad he said go get your pea-shooter. I said what's a pea-shooter. He said, you get it out of a paint spray can. So it's called a 'pea'. Great question.
I like the design of your mobile base. I plan on using it as inspiration to build my own. I would like to know what size casters you used for this mobile base. Are they 2" or 3" casters?
Pretty sure they're 2-1/2"... most important is that you get high quality ones rated for the weight you'll be putting on them or you'll be disappointed when they develop flat spots over time. Regardless I don't think I'd go much smaller than 2 1/2" since smaller casters get hung up more easily on little chips or rocks on your shop floor... Best, Matt
Forgive me if I just missed it....but where did you purchase your phenolic sheet? Thanks...and you have earned another sub...keep these videos for us novices coming.
What you missed is my shout out/thank you to Curtiss, a friend who salvaged a number of these amazing phenolic sheets and was kind enough to give one from his stash to me. I absolutely LOVE it as a work surface/extension table! As I understand it they're extremely expensive if purchased outright. Check construction salvage yards, etc and you might get lucky Jeremy... good luck? Best, Matt
Hi Matt, I just acquired an '89 Unisaw that's very similar to yours, but my mountain bike is a Specialized :-). I'd love to hear any tips you have for tuning up that saw -- yours seems to run like a top!
Nice score on that tablesaw Scott... funny that your name is Scott but you ride a Specialized... and I ride a Scott😁😎 I don't have much specific to 'our' tablesaw but this video shows important maintenance for cast iron, regardless of brand: ruclips.net/video/YIE50o5pS6U/видео.html Best, Matt
WOW! One of the most useful vids I've seen!
I have a Unisaw I bought recently, looks zackly like yours, Unifence and all. The extension table was pretty beat up, so I cut a piece of Aranco ¾" ply to replace it. For now it's just sitting there as an organizing table while I clean up the small shop. I need to rabbet the edge, mortice for the bolt heads, and cover it with Formica.
I had not planned to make a roller base, but you got me thinking. I don't have a welder, but why not just use 2x4 rails for the base? I think I can make a decent base. Please comment.
Looking forward to the vid on motor housing and dust collection.
Only make a mobile base if you need one Jim... if you've got a dedicated space to park your saw it's always better IMHO. My shop needs to be mobile and this arrangement works great. A wood base is probably going to be cludgy because of the weight and function required but with some ingenuity you can probably come up with something functional. Not sure of your resources but you might consider getting the steel and fabricating it and then just hiring someone to just do the welding part. Truth be told I'd have a nicer looking base if I hired a 'welder' instead of a 'grinder', right? 🙄😋😎 Best, Matt
Thanks Matt. My shop is pretty small, so mobility would really help. And I've bought some steel lately, and been sticker shocked! I'm afraid that's not gonna happen. But wood is cheap and easy. A perimeter frame top and bottom, stiffened with ply, uprights bolted under the extension complete it. I've built a few cabinets for home and shop, and none have fallen apart! Engineers always over-design stuff.
@@jimmacaulay844 I hear you loud and clear. I've gone both ways to get around problems, especially when $$ was harder to come by than time and energy. Make sure you get wheels of the right material so they don't get flat spots or wallow-out the axle holes from the weight. Best, Matt
Great job Matt. I enjoy your videos immensely,, Thank you for taking the time and effort to do them!!! I was wondering if your motor on your tablet saw gets too hot being enclosed . I have an older tablet saw , the motor comes out the back with an open base stan . I am wanting to cut down the dust in my small shop and this is a big culprit in my dust collection . Have been reluctant to enclose this because I was afraid the motor would burn up for lack of air movement. It gets a fair amount of dust now . Thank you Gary
Hi Gary you know I don't have any problems with the motor overheating but then again I don't use the table saw for extended periods without the dust collection system running which pulls more than an adequate amount of air through the cabinet as near as I can tell. My plexiglass enclosure for the motor does a decent job of containing dust and you should also know that I blow out the inside of the cabinet frequently with compressed air while the dust collector is running so dust isn't sticking on things which I'm thinking would be more of a heat problem than the enclosure itself.
Best, Matt
Are you going to put a wheelie bar on the table saw to help balance the mobile base? Great video, thanks.
You're welcome for the video Tim... thank YOU for watching.
I wish I'd shown an 'after' shot of the saw's stability once that heavy phenolic top was added. I put all my weight on the saw end and it didn't lift the other end so no wheelie bar is necessary. I'll be adding even more weight later with a router lift and storage for miter gauges and blades so I don't anticipate ever adding one. All saws are different so a tip-stop of some sort may be necessary for other setups. Good thing is that it would be very simple to add. Best, Matt
I would have moved both wheels under the Saw end closer to the corner if I was putting a dust extraction port where you did ....
Do you have a video where you install a router lift and talk about router fences?
Not yet but do hope to get a RouterLift Pro from MLCS someday intending to install it and show it off a bit... but don't hold your breath, it will probably be awhile😯 Best, Matt
Might need some locktite !
Would love to see how u made your outfeed roller.... hint hint
The outfeed roller build video is in the pipeline behind the Pallet Wood Door Build Series Chris... I'm anxious to show them off too! I've got most of the details thought out an key hardware purchased and waiting... waiting for the time to tackle it. Best, Matt
I think the ball in the can is called a "Pea"
I'm about 3/4 complete on my base. Using yours for inspiration :-)
One question Matt. How do you stop the swivel wheel from turning on it's pivot?
My wheel locks but wants to pivot around its pivot which doesn't inspire a lot of confidence when pushing sheet goods across the table.
Love to hear how yours works for you.
Usually the locked swivel wheel is enough to keep the saw from moving but if I'm pushing something heavy over the saw I'll put a small block of wood behind the wheel to keep the ends of the table from moving. The extra Mobility is worth the little extra trouble of keeping it from moving once in awhile and I hope you find that to be the case with your saw. Best, Matt
Another alternative would be to make a brake block from two wide wedges with rubber strips for traction, once in place put one wedge on top of the other rubber out and tap together until the wheel is off the ground, I once made a dolly for a saw bench that was raised to park and lowered to roll. It was actuated on eccentric mounts .
David Wrate you could even just mount one wedge on the frame near the wheel and chock it ....
The little ball is called a pea.
Maybe I missed it, but where is the new phenolic top from?
The top is a phenolic restroom partition from a project where the wrong size and color were ordered. My good friend Curtis had the sense to retrieve some of these from a job site dumpster and I was the Grateful recipient of one of his salvaged pieces. I suspect that certain toilet partition manufacturers might have an abundance of misordered pieces for sale at Pennies on the dollar and can attest to the fact it would be worth the research to find that sort of material on the cheap.
Best, Matt
Matt,
Just a question regarding the dust cover. Does that motor get enough circulation to keep it from overheating? Maybe a dumb question.
I've not had any overheating problems with my setup and I think it's pretty similar to any table saws enclosure when Dust collection is used. I suppose it has something to do with air circulation caused by the dust collector itself but maybe if a person ran the Saw for hours doing heavy work with a cover on and no dust collector running that might cause heat issues. Thanks for watching and commenting! Best, Matt
The ball in the can is called a “ pea “
May I ask about the structural integerity of the steel base after the rear tube was cut for the dust collection port? My older Powermatic 66 has the dust collection port very low Ike the Unisaw. I’ve been worried about fabrication the rear of the mobile base so close to the cabinet (like yours) for fear of the notched tube steel not being able to hold the weight of the saw. Did you do anything to reinforce the notching of the tube?
Great question Byron. My solution to the very issue in question was to weld in a piece of 4" thinwall steel pipe to add strength once I took a 'horse bite' out of the 1x2 steel tube that makes up the rear member of the base. Look closely starting here in the video: ruclips.net/video/aV1uDDWdyhI/видео.html since that section is visible on the edges of the video frame. If you're not able to see what I'm talking about in the video anywhere let me know and I'll take a couple close-up photos of that section and post them on Pinterest. I can tell by the wording of your question that you'll be able to understand and adapt this solution if you find it necessary and choose to. Best, Matt
You can see it here too: ruclips.net/video/aV1uDDWdyhI/видео.html with the base upside down before painting...
Matt, thanks for sharing your tips and tricks. I have Unisaw that needs an update on original fence style setup.. What style fence are you using on your Unisaw? Thanks, Ron
Still using the original Delta Unifence that came with the saw when it was new back in 1982... if you can believe that. I have purchased replacement 'wear parts' for it because the little nylon glide buttons and tabs wear down with use but that's the only maintenance I've ever needed to do on it. That probably doesn't help much but I guess I'm saying I'd be inclined to overhaul the existing Unifence before I'd work to replace it... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you for your time. Unfortunately I have the round tubing style guide bars which support the fence. It's pure junk in my opinion! Thanks for reply.
@@battime5418 Yeah, the Unifence revolutionized Delta's old, lame round tube guide bars... I worked with one of those old ones before what I have now. Wonder if you can find a Unifence on Ebay or somewhere. Otherwise you should be able to get a Beismeyer fence that's made to fit Unisaw. That's what I'd have if I didn't have the Unifence... Best, Matt
@@NextLevelCarpentry Thank you. Last question. What is the name of insert you use, that has a replaceable track within the blade insert. Thank you. I search and could not find the name. NO MORE QUESTIONS-:)
@@battime5418 LOL... only wish I had time to give better answers. There's pics on this page: www.pinterest.com/thetimbertailor/next-level-carpentry-project-photos/ that show closeups of that insert. It's long since gone out of production but FYI I'm working with Greg's Garage on RUclips to re-create that plate with hopes of making a limited run of them for sale... stay tuned? You might find a used one online somewhere in the meantime... Best, Matt
you need to make a out feed table
I already did:
ruclips.net/video/hdH18asehhk/видео.html
What size angle iron did you make table saw mobile stand out of, Thanks Ray
Hi Ray... the angle I used for parts of the mobile stand is 2x2x1/4"... pretty beefy stuff but it was 'modular' with 2x2" square tube and 1x2 rectangular tube used for other parts of the base. Since there's such a small quantity of any one size material and weight isn't an issue I tend to over-build stuff like this. In other words you could probably economize in both weight and size if necessary and still have a more-than-sturdy mobile stand.
Best,
Matt