Your attention to detail is what separates a good model from a great model. Is it worth it? .. you betcha. The brass pieces are worth the time for the result that you get. The flat clear is an excellent choice.
Thank you very much for sharing and going on with this project! Nice work! Best regards from Germany! And your choice of red for the hull looks great!!!
Thanks for another hour of great entertainment Ben and Nora. I like these long videos; gives you more time to explain things in detail. The steam winches are beautiful pieces, little kits in themselves. I realise they're documented as being green but I thought it was a shame that parts of them weren't left in unpainted metal - could look fantastic. If all the p.e. pieces look that good, it's going to look fantastic. Having said that, lots of detail parts of that difficulty are going to make this a long build. I don't think anyone's in a hurry though.😂 It's great to see you sharing your hobby with Nora; model-making tends to be a very solitary pastime. It's been a great start to the new build, really looking forward to seeing her come together.👍👌😁 Cheers for now, Dougie.
Great update ! love your shark mouthed cup and the story ! Educational all around ! Hope you and your family have a great Easter holiday ! Until the next one, take care you both ! Tony
I build highly detailed 1/24 muscle cars...the grease pencil idea for picking up small pieces for assembly is awesome, ...till now the use of commercially made tools other devices I've come up with to hold tiny parts have always been a struggle for me, especially to the level of detail I'm presently at...I'm not going to be building any ship models in the near future, but I have watched video 1 and 2 of your build, and I'm glad I did...the grease pencil idea is going to help me immensely in my model endeavors...subscribed and thumbs up...thank you
Another fantastic video. I especially liked the comparison you did with the steam winches. I agree that if someone only uses the kit provided winches the look will be very acceptable. Dave
Great show, thanks very much for your time and efforts to both of you for making a very well presented and informative program. Love the little history segment that tells the stories of the real people of the time. Looking forward to your next program.
Thanks Steven! I didn't have or know that I was going to have the KA Kit when we started filming this video. Otherwise I may have changed the format a little bit. But as luck would have it, the kit arrived just as I was finishing the Pontos winches. I'll see about doing as much comparison between the three options, as possible, from here on out.
Mate love your work and what a smart move getting your beautiful wife in on the act really enjoyed this video , and your wifes input .You are a very lucky man to have such a beautiful wife that enjoys building models with you , keep the brilliant videos coming as they are as always so enjoyable to watch.
I enjoy all your videos! I've also watched many other channels building this model kit. There is one thing I notice with regards to these steam winches that everyone is doing, that is totally wrong. I spent many years in the Merchant Marines sailing on ships, so I speak about this from experience. There should be NO paint on the winch drums where the mooring lines wrap around the drum. If any paint was applied to these it would have been stripped off the very first time you throw wraps on the drum. whether pulling the line from storage to flake on the the deck, or pulling the lines tight when arriving in port. If you want the ship to look "authentic", you should paint the outside of the drum where the mooring lines would wrap around in some kind of paint that resembles bare steel, as this is exactly what you would have seen on the real ship. This goes for bollards, chocks, fairleads and capstan drums as well. Although the bollards and chocks would only have the paint stripped in a certain fashion. If I was there, I could show you exactly how they would have looked. They arn't gonna throw new paint on these surfaces every time they leave port. Optimally you want it to be bare shiny steel surface so that the drum can continue to turn under the wraps of mooring line with very little friction or effort on the part of the seaman. We never painted this surface on the ships because it would cause too much friction, which would have been dangerous, and since it would be stripped off the very first time a mooring line is thrown around it, it is simply a waste of time. And although a dusting of rust would occur prior to getting to port, that too would quickly be rubbed off by the mooring lines as soon as it was used.
Well done. It really looks very good. I really like what you are doing. I am also a big fan of TITANIC and I would like to have this model in my collection someday. Your video is very interesting and can serve as a perfect model. Greetings from Poland
I just want to know the story of how Nora became involved in the build. I seem to remember her once saying "Want to drive me insane, put me in a room with a model." She is doing an awesome job with that airbrush. She's picking it up way faster than I did. Awesome work as always. Eventually I'll get Titanic in my 1/350 fleet.
The Titanic's hull, as with most other ships at the time, would have been painted with red lead which was an excellent anti-fouling paint. Barnacles, sea grass and algae would not grow on it because of the toxic properties of the lead in the paint. Red lead, or Minium as it was also known, was a bright red, almost orange in colour. That jar of Russian marker red was almost right on accurate for red lead. Of course, colour photographs weren't in existence when the Titanic was built and any pink hull paint visible in modern photos can't be trusted. 100 years of soaking in salt water will fade and alter any paint regardless of what it was made from. It's also possible that the paint was further tinted to match company colour specs when applied.
Great job. ALSO, really appreciate and like the fact that you did your historical homework as well. Further, I appreciate your telling that make the model your own, and never worry what other's claim as the "facts" they know. :) Good job folks! Hope to see the rest. :) :) :) Ohhh,... one other note. It was a shame you had to paint the Pontos aftermarket kit. As the metal parts are beautiful in their own right, but I realize historic accuracy being that the metal IS painted. I remember the Old Smithsonian Museum in DC looking at the old historic machines and vehicles. They LOVED painting over the steel, etc.. :) Good job! :)
На такой модельке можно разгуляться по полной, можно либо оставить Титаник, либо собрать Британник, либо Олимпик 👍👍👍 такой масштаб явно очень дорого стоит 😁
I've built about 15 Titanics -- but never in such a large and detailed scale -- since the mid 1970s, when the Clive Cussler book "Raise the Titanic!" was published and I finished it in a weekend. Great book, "meh" movie. These videos, though, are definitely not "meh." Keep up the great work.
Wow!!!!! I just priced this model online. I spent less on a RTR RC car. I built a much smaller Titanic when I was a teenager, many decades ago. I know I don't have your PATIENTANCE.
It is expensive. But if it takes a couple years to build… or even say 7 months doing just out of the box, and you divide the cost up over that time, it’s really quite affordable.
@@TheMidwestModelShop 5 years ago I got my grandson into RC cars. When I was growing up I would con my grandmother into getting me a model just about every other week. I am now disabled and am thinking about getting the BIG MODELS I wanted as a kid. This would be the one I would give a try. I used to love detail.
Love this new series. Great job on the steam winches. The detail is stunning. The gear covers, yuck. What a pain. But, great job. I do think I like the darker red hull, but, what do I know.
@@TheMidwestModelShop loved your video, and I'm looking into buying one for myself.. They sure are not cheap.. But I think it would be so much fun and look great afterwards!
There are 2 “primary” upgrade kits. One from Pontos and one from KA. However, there are probably 4-5 other smaller companies out there producing additional 3rd party options.
Yes, sir! I have LED strip lights that will be the primary source of illumination. I’m going to show that in the next video. But that’s going to be a minute because I’m currently putting fiber optics in all those drilled out holes! And it’s slow going.
Isn't the bottom Red Lead? She's good! First female I've ever seen who is interested in model building. Those steam wenches look really cool, nice detail!
As a li'l whelk we used to have fun modifying the Revell Titanic - we get our kits from the neighborhood drugstore - chopping it down to a three-stacker, deleting two of the funnels on a full hull ship - even turning one into the Rex. Good times...
Yeah I decided not to say anything in an effort to maintain enthusiasm for those who are building it out of the box. But when I saw that I was like, really Trumpeter? I actually half expected them to get the four supports for the larger whip end shaft correct. Wouldn't that have been ironic. But nope. I know its A LOT of work for KA, but providing some elements of their kit a` la carte, would be very helpful to lots of modelers.
Keep up the good work, enjoyed both your previous warship builds, the Titanic is going to be another great build. Thanks for the videos from the other side of the pond in Yorkshire England
SO great that your wife is getting involved! Love that! All I want to know is.....when do we get to see the Bandai Star Destroyer kit that's behind you get built complete with LED lighting?!
Another great build has begun. Tamiya paint. I use to hate it. Not durable, dry airbrush tip and a rough surface. I learned the secret that makes Tamiya my favorite paint. Mr. Leveler Thinner. It leaves a very durable, smooth finish ( I no longer clear coat for decals), and I don’t feel like I’m racing through the painting in order to avoid a dry tip. I have also found it brushes well if you don’t work the paint too much when painting over a previously painted surface. If you do it will begin to dissolve the previous coat. Like you I liked Model Master enamel. Tamiya thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner is as good or even better with the added benefit that it dries fast rather than taking days.
I wonder if they did that because it was the common machinery color of the day? White would never stay clean, but black would have hid the grease really well. I'm not totally sure I understand the color scheme they went with back then for everything.
@@TheMidwestModelShop well from what I know as to the choice of the color is beyond me, I just know that the board of regulations said that deck machinery is certain specs have to be this way. Really excited to see what you do with this model
I'd use the grey for the pre shading and use MIGS Transparator in the black to go back over it, it'll put a coat of black back over the whole thing but still let the pre shading pop! Well I guess it would be a post shade your doing here this is when you would get away with a slight dry brush on some pannals not the whole thing but just to picking out that rivet and panal line detail to show it is there. The red will die down once you get a wash over it when weathering it'll look fine! You should check out that video 15000.1 scratch building the titanic Parkes productions
I'll be getting my biggest kit to date, the 1/350 USS Ranger. Given that all I have are small bottles of Model Master and Tamiya paints, and an assortment of small brushes, painting it will take forever.
I spent years wanting to get a 1/350 aircraft carrier but was very nervous about how big it would be (that's funny now) Ultimately I settled on an escort carrier. USS Independence because it's smaller. It's one of my playlists and early on in this channel's history. But I really enjoyed it.
Just starting to watch your series on the Titanic. Very interesting so far and am learning quite a few tips. Watched your series on the Arizona as I was building my own model of it. Kudos to you both. The one big difference I noticed between the Pontos winches and the KA winches is the detail of the big gears. Which one is more realistic? Thanks, Greg from Ky.
That’s a good question. The Pontos kit looks better, I think. But only upon very close examination, once it’s all painted up. It definitely was a lot of work and took more time than I cared for. So there are pros and cons to each.
although a 1 year old ship with a fresh paint job for her maiden voyage should not have gray cloudy bits and other weathering, it sure makes it pop more to the eye!
Absolutely beautiful and meticulous work! One question: did the schematic provide accurate placement of the Plimsoll line....I ask not as a criticism of your work but because it appears to be slightly different from images of the ship itself. Best wishes for a happy and healthy Easter, my friend.
So yes and no. The schematic in the book Titanic Ship Magnificent shows where a line should go and appears to make sense. However, the kit provided hull does not correspond with that schematic. I think if I could bring it up a little bit that would help. The drain holes according to the schematic are below it. But some pics and opinions are that they should be just above it so they can discharge the waste. So.... I don't know. Everyone has an opinion.
Ben, great build video again. I have a question. I'm sure you've mentioned it in one of your Missouri build videos, but what is the pencil you use with the yellow nib and where do you get it from please? Many thanks
It’s a wax pencil used for doing women’s nails. They use it to pick up little things and glue them to their fingernails or so I’m told. I searched a them on Amazon and found a pack of them for $5? They are awesome.
The only way I know how is to reach out to them on FB. The proprietor has a new job and I haven’t heard from him much since he started it. However, I saw a post a while back stating they were still in business…. So. You’ll just have to track them down and see what you get.
Looks great, but noticed you mixed up the big gears. One has triangular holes, the other has circular holes. 2 of them have one type in the rear, and the third one has the other type of gear.
Thought you had lost that bit of the gear when it pinged off to be eaten by the carpet monster,the hours we spend on the floor looking for pinged pieces.
I used Tamiya masking tape and pushed the edges down firmly with my fingers. Then I painted the line with 3 VERY light coats of paint to build up to the desired coverage. Most of the time bleeding happens because too much paint is being applied at once.
By comparison, the kit steam winches look very crude. Having said that, the kit winches still pass the 10 foot rule. A lot of effort and expense for very little gain.
Modern water-based acrylics are very durable and are the paint of choice by the majority of modelers. There are many brands available, and many come with additives to make them very easy to apply with airbrushes. Acrylics dry within minutes and do not emit harmful fumes. Enamels are now considered a poor choice because they are oil-based paint and often take weeks to dry. They also require thinners that emit fumes. During that long drying time, they can be easily damaged. Lacquers dry very fast, but they fade over time and are not the best choice if the model will be displayed under lighting. They also have a fume problem.
Enamel paints do not take weeks to dry. Unless you are in an outrageously humid and cool environment. My problem is, there is (for me) no one stop shop for acrylics. With the good old model master enamels, you could brush paint them right out of the bottle. Or thin them to airbrush and they had every color under the sun. Flat or gloss was always available. Now I use Tamiya for airbrushing because they spray well but you have to use their thinner. You can’t really brush paint it though. Model master acrylics work well for brushing but will dry up and clog an airbrush quickly, even with thinner. Acrylics are the modern choice only because manufacturers are discontinuing enamels. And it’s a shame. I think they are a much better choice, regardless of the fumes.
@@TheMidwestModelShop I always use Tamiya acrylics, then apply a coat of Johnson's Klear (or Future) polish, then a coat of Testor's dullcote. You cannot beat the flat effect of the Testor's IMO. Enamels are probably better paints, but I hate the mess they make and the cleaning of airbrushes and everything else. Each to their own I guess.
The Nomadic is on display in Belfast, would that be a good reference as to the "red" that's needed for the hull??? They might have differed from ship to ship, it's difficult to know I suppose.
It’s all a matter of opinion. There just no where to look with any certainty, to figure out the “correct” red. The nomadic has been repainted several times, at least. And newer and improved anti fowling would have been used each time. That’s why it is simply best to go with what pleases your eye. Because after all, it’s your model 😉
@@TheMidwestModelShop I did figure it had been repainted, I also know there are websites about the "white star buff" used for the funnels and there is no certainty there either....oh well....So exciting to see yours developping though!
Upon review, I just needed to squeeze that first PE bracket together and that closes the gap. I did try switching them around, and they are the same size.
I asked a friend who has a friend that lives in Belfast that says his great grandfather worked four the Harland and Wolf warehouse that says ship hulls are antifouling paint with copper oxide. That is third hand notice. they build modern ship models and I build sail, so I am no expert. I just basecoat in copper or white.
Yeah it's not so much weathering. Also, she was already painted AGAIN on the port side prior to her voyage. I don't think paint was that "good" back then as it is today or even 20 years after she went down.
@Louis Cypher Dry brushing would work better if you just want to accent raised panel lines. It can create a sheen from available light falling on the surface to give it a very natural look. It would work especially well on a large model like this where you expect it to reflect sunlight as you look at the model from different angles.
I really like your videos and content. But your videos are running a little long. I like to watch a video all at once and it's difficult for me to find and hour to do that. Can you split into 2? Either way, I'll continue to follow you and enjoy watching. Thanks
Yeah I plan in my head what I want to cover and then hope it doesn’t take too long. I was hoping to have a 35 min film. You’re right I could have split this one in two. I’m planning on making the next one pretty short.
Technically there is no right or wrong when painting it. The big thing is the scale you are working with. A smaller model should have lighter colors than a bigger one. But at the end of the day, paint it the way you are satisfied with your model.
The Titanic was not "new". It was an evolving structure that took years to build. It had spaces and surfaces that were painted at different times and withstood outside elements, salt and sea air (which is highly corroesive) before it even left for it's maiden voyage. White Star repainted the ship for the maiden voyage but only the port side of the ship which was the side of the ship everyone would see on the pier. It was to costly and time consuming to have the entire ship repainted for it's maiden voyage. You could expect the starboard side to have had a worn look as well as rust. A ship that large is something that requires constant upkeep to keep "appearances" and at no time will the entire thing have a new appearance. Even when the ship is considered "brand new"
@@themilkman1188 And we can’t be certain that they painted the entire port side either. It’s likely that they just touched up scrapes and rust spots. I’m guessing there were sections of fresh paint scattered across the port side, covering obvious blemishes, while the rest may have been lightly weathered black / white.
We love the energy and enthusiasm that Nora brings to this series!
Who is we?
Wow, the old school Testors glass bottles of paint. What a blast from the past. And great work as usual.
Great comparison of the steam winches, good job!
Smart and diplomatic couple…”it’s too much hustle to go back and forth”….talking about the figures painting.
I Like your thinking ..👍👍
Your attention to detail is what separates a good model from a great model. Is it worth it? .. you betcha. The brass pieces are worth the time for the result that you get. The flat clear is an excellent choice.
Awesome, Ben! Love it. You are doing he RMS titanic, grand justice buddy!
Behind every great man stands a great woman. Great to see you sharing so much.
Thank you very much for sharing and going on with this project! Nice work! Best regards from Germany! And your choice of red for the hull looks great!!!
Good videos as usual
Nice to see Nora joining you in the build
It is so great to see you and your wife doing this together! Love your format, this will be a great build to follow!
Details details details!! Gotta love the tiny parts! I think Nora should have done one! Lol! Nice job guys!!
😆😆
Thanks for another hour of great entertainment Ben and Nora. I like these long videos; gives you more time to explain things in detail.
The steam winches are beautiful pieces, little kits in themselves. I realise they're documented as being green but I thought it was a shame that parts of them weren't left in unpainted metal - could look fantastic.
If all the p.e. pieces look that good, it's going to look fantastic. Having said that, lots of detail parts of that difficulty are going to make this a long build. I don't think anyone's in a hurry though.😂 It's great to see you sharing your hobby with Nora; model-making tends to be a very solitary pastime.
It's been a great start to the new build, really looking forward to seeing her come together.👍👌😁
Cheers for now,
Dougie.
Thanks Dougie! We appreciate it!
Great update ! love your shark mouthed cup and the story ! Educational all around ! Hope you and your family have a great Easter holiday ! Until the next one, take care you both ! Tony
These videos are incredibly helpful, thanks. Looking forward to following along with this build. Ship is looking fantastic.
The thumbnail was cool.
I always get a sinking feeling watching these titanic videos
Call the Coast Guard.
Great video. You for sure have patience. Love the end part. Great chemistry and she has natural comedic talent and timing.
I build highly detailed 1/24 muscle cars...the grease pencil idea for picking up small pieces for assembly is awesome, ...till now the use of commercially made tools other devices I've come up with to hold tiny parts have always been a struggle for me, especially to the level of detail I'm presently at...I'm not going to be building any ship models in the near future, but I have watched video 1 and 2 of your build, and I'm glad I did...the grease pencil idea is going to help me immensely in my model endeavors...subscribed and thumbs up...thank you
Another fantastic video. I especially liked the comparison you did with the steam winches. I agree that if someone only uses the kit provided winches the look will be very acceptable. Dave
I completely agree. It's hard to see that when all three options are in front of you. That's why I tried to make a big deal about it.
Great show, thanks very much for your time and efforts to both of you for making a very well presented and informative program. Love the little history segment that tells the stories of the real people of the time. Looking forward to your next program.
Great update!! 👍👍👍
The grease pencil tip from your last build was a major time and sanity saver.. 👍👍
Enjoyed watching this video, the comparison you did was very informative. Thanks,looking forward to your next video.
Thanks Steven! I didn't have or know that I was going to have the KA Kit when we started filming this video. Otherwise I may have changed the format a little bit. But as luck would have it, the kit arrived just as I was finishing the Pontos winches. I'll see about doing as much comparison between the three options, as possible, from here on out.
Loving the new series Ben and how you brought your wife into it also. You should let her try her hand at fabing up winches or cranes for you.
Great work guys, excellent video, paint looks great and PE looks amazing 👍⚓
Mate love your work and what a smart move getting your beautiful wife in on the act really enjoyed this video , and your wifes input .You are a very lucky man to have such a beautiful wife that enjoys building models with you , keep the brilliant videos coming as they are as always so enjoyable to watch.
Thanks 👍
Enjoyed the video update very much. Take care.
Thanks, will do!
Loved this series of videos thank you. Added bonus seeing the two gorgeous furkids on the sofa 😍
You guys make a great team:)
I enjoy all your videos! I've also watched many other channels building this model kit. There is one thing I notice with regards to these steam winches that everyone is doing, that is totally wrong. I spent many years in the Merchant Marines sailing on ships, so I speak about this from experience. There should be NO paint on the winch drums where the mooring lines wrap around the drum. If any paint was applied to these it would have been stripped off the very first time you throw wraps on the drum. whether pulling the line from storage to flake on the the deck, or pulling the lines tight when arriving in port. If you want the ship to look "authentic", you should paint the outside of the drum where the mooring lines would wrap around in some kind of paint that resembles bare steel, as this is exactly what you would have seen on the real ship. This goes for bollards, chocks, fairleads and capstan drums as well. Although the bollards and chocks would only have the paint stripped in a certain fashion. If I was there, I could show you exactly how they would have looked. They arn't gonna throw new paint on these surfaces every time they leave port. Optimally you want it to be bare shiny steel surface so that the drum can continue to turn under the wraps of mooring line with very little friction or effort on the part of the seaman. We never painted this surface on the ships because it would cause too much friction, which would have been dangerous, and since it would be stripped off the very first time a mooring line is thrown around it, it is simply a waste of time. And although a dusting of rust would occur prior to getting to port, that too would quickly be rubbed off by the mooring lines as soon as it was used.
Well done. It really looks very good. I really like what you are doing. I am also a big fan of TITANIC and I would like to have this model in my collection someday. Your video is very interesting and can serve as a perfect model.
Greetings from Poland
Great looking winches.
I just want to know the story of how Nora became involved in the build. I seem to remember her once saying "Want to drive me insane, put me in a room with a model." She is doing an awesome job with that airbrush. She's picking it up way faster than I did. Awesome work as always. Eventually I'll get Titanic in my 1/350 fleet.
I'll let Nora tell the story ; )
@@TheMidwestModelShop Wise man!!!!! lol
The Titanic's hull, as with most other ships at the time, would have been painted with red lead which was an excellent anti-fouling paint. Barnacles, sea grass and algae would not grow on it because of the toxic properties of the lead in the paint. Red lead, or Minium as it was also known, was a bright red, almost orange in colour. That jar of Russian marker red was almost right on accurate for red lead. Of course, colour photographs weren't in existence when the Titanic was built and any pink hull paint visible in modern photos can't be trusted. 100 years of soaking in salt water will fade and alter any paint regardless of what it was made from. It's also possible that the paint was further tinted to match company colour specs when applied.
Great job. ALSO, really appreciate and like the fact that you did your historical homework as well. Further, I appreciate your telling that make the model your own, and never worry what other's claim as the "facts" they know. :) Good job folks! Hope to see the rest. :) :) :) Ohhh,... one other note. It was a shame you had to paint the Pontos aftermarket kit. As the metal parts are beautiful in their own right, but I realize historic accuracy being that the metal IS painted. I remember the Old Smithsonian Museum in DC looking at the old historic machines and vehicles. They LOVED painting over the steel, etc.. :) Good job! :)
Just noticed the shirt, "pressing on"! Very awesome. Nice video.
На такой модельке можно разгуляться по полной, можно либо оставить Титаник, либо собрать Британник, либо Олимпик 👍👍👍 такой масштаб явно очень дорого стоит 😁
Well done video. Excellent model work and camera views there also.
Glad you enjoyed it
I think the Pontos winch is the way to go!!!!
Agreed.
Perfection. Well done!
I second the white base when doing yellow. I've used that method and yellow shows its best!
Looking good Ben great work both of you 🤗🤗🤗
I've built about 15 Titanics -- but never in such a large and detailed scale -- since the mid 1970s, when the Clive Cussler book "Raise the Titanic!" was published and I finished it in a weekend. Great book, "meh" movie. These videos, though, are definitely not "meh." Keep up the great work.
Wow!!!!! I just priced this model online. I spent less on a RTR RC car. I built a much smaller Titanic when I was a teenager, many decades ago. I know I don't have your PATIENTANCE.
It is expensive. But if it takes a couple years to build… or even say 7 months doing just out of the box, and you divide the cost up over that time, it’s really quite affordable.
@@TheMidwestModelShop 5 years ago I got my grandson into RC cars. When I was growing up I would con my grandmother into getting me a model just about every other week. I am now disabled and am thinking about getting the BIG MODELS I wanted as a kid. This would be the one I would give a try. I used to love detail.
GREAT PROGRESS!!
So this is your wife helping you? That's awesome
I'll be starting my 1/350 Massachusetts soon, hopefully. I've got a lot going on right now.
Great job with the paint job....
Love this new series. Great job on the steam winches. The detail is stunning. The gear covers, yuck. What a pain. But, great job. I do think I like the darker red hull, but, what do I know.
Thanks! That’s the whole point of demonstrating different colors. So people can pick what’s right fit them.
I loved the look of them unpainted
Yeah it was a shame to paint them. But then they wouldn't have looked right on the ship.
@@TheMidwestModelShop loved your video, and I'm looking into buying one for myself.. They sure are not cheap.. But I think it would be so much fun and look great afterwards!
@@TheMidwestModelShop how many upgrade kits are there for this? Is it only the one upgrade kit or is there many?
There are 2 “primary” upgrade kits. One from Pontos and one from KA. However, there are probably 4-5 other smaller companies out there producing additional 3rd party options.
@@TheMidwestModelShop ok thanks going to have a look at both packages and see what they have 👍
Are you going to back light the portholes? Was reading about all the add ons in the recent AirFix magazine. Enjoying the build...
Yes, sir! I have LED strip lights that will be the primary source of illumination. I’m going to show that in the next video. But that’s going to be a minute because I’m currently putting fiber optics in all those drilled out holes! And it’s slow going.
Super work, I think Nora will have you out of a job with her airbrushing skills
I hope so. One less thing ; )
Isn't the bottom Red Lead?
She's good! First female I've ever seen who is interested in model building.
Those steam wenches look really cool, nice detail!
It's copper
I also like modelbuilding
As a li'l whelk we used to have fun modifying the Revell Titanic - we get our kits from the neighborhood drugstore - chopping it down to a three-stacker, deleting two of the funnels on a full hull ship - even turning one into the Rex. Good times...
The winches are a work of art, however the kit winch looks like it has a gear wheel missing from it, the one you made up for comparison
You’re absolutely right! It is missing a gear, it comes with only one. One could easily scratch build a second one.
Yeah I decided not to say anything in an effort to maintain enthusiasm for those who are building it out of the box. But when I saw that I was like, really Trumpeter? I actually half expected them to get the four supports for the larger whip end shaft correct. Wouldn't that have been ironic. But nope. I know its A LOT of work for KA, but providing some elements of their kit a` la carte, would be very helpful to lots of modelers.
Keep up the good work, enjoyed both your previous warship builds, the Titanic is going to be another great build. Thanks for the videos from the other side of the pond in Yorkshire England
Ordered the figures and they are on the way!
Awesome! Looking forward to seeing them!
Gary, the only question I have is this. Who is Nora's dentist? Those teeth are brilliant.
Wow .Even Harland and Wolf t shirt.
SO great that your wife is getting involved! Love that! All I want to know is.....when do we get to see the Bandai Star Destroyer kit that's behind you get built complete with LED lighting?!
I already built it. There a video of it in the Star Wars Ban Dia playlist. It turned out really awesome.
@@TheMidwestModelShop - ohh sweeet! Awesome! Thanks! I'll check it out. I completed mine as well, it's sitting on my desk in front of me as I type!
I put mine up on my PC and turn it on all the time. It’s super awesome.
Awesome
Another great build has begun.
Tamiya paint. I use to hate it. Not durable, dry airbrush tip and a rough surface. I learned the secret that makes Tamiya my favorite paint. Mr. Leveler Thinner. It leaves a very durable, smooth finish ( I no longer clear coat for decals), and I don’t feel like I’m racing through the painting in order to avoid a dry tip. I have also found it brushes well if you don’t work the paint too much when painting over a previously painted surface. If you do it will begin to dissolve the previous coat.
Like you I liked Model Master enamel. Tamiya thinned with Mr. Leveling Thinner is as good or even better with the added benefit that it dries fast rather than taking days.
Those are good tips since I will slowly have to head down the acrylic road.
The Britannic specification notebook, clarified that these winches under board of trade regulations are INFACT green. Good choice!
I wonder if they did that because it was the common machinery color of the day? White would never stay clean, but black would have hid the grease really well. I'm not totally sure I understand the color scheme they went with back then for everything.
@@TheMidwestModelShop well from what I know as to the choice of the color is beyond me, I just know that the board of regulations said that deck machinery is certain specs have to be this way. Really excited to see what you do with this model
I'd use the grey for the pre shading and use MIGS Transparator in the black to go back over it, it'll put a coat of black back over the whole thing but still let the pre shading pop! Well I guess it would be a post shade your doing here this is when you would get away with a slight dry brush on some pannals not the whole thing but just to picking out that rivet and panal line detail to show it is there. The red will die down once you get a wash over it when weathering it'll look fine! You should check out that video 15000.1 scratch building the titanic Parkes productions
Lovely! thanks for the tutorial. What is the grease pencil brand? Never saw this before.
Ben, first time air brushing, Nora’s a natural, tell Matt I said hi.....lol
I'll let Matt know ; )
I'll be getting my biggest kit to date, the 1/350 USS Ranger. Given that all I have are small bottles of Model Master and Tamiya paints, and an assortment of small brushes, painting it will take forever.
I spent years wanting to get a 1/350 aircraft carrier but was very nervous about how big it would be (that's funny now) Ultimately I settled on an escort carrier. USS Independence because it's smaller. It's one of my playlists and early on in this channel's history. But I really enjoyed it.
Just starting to watch your series on the Titanic. Very interesting so far and am learning quite a few tips. Watched your series on the Arizona as I was building my own model of it. Kudos to you both. The one big difference I noticed between the Pontos winches and the KA winches is the detail of the big gears. Which one is more realistic? Thanks, Greg from Ky.
That’s a good question. The Pontos kit looks better, I think. But only upon very close examination, once it’s all painted up. It definitely was a lot of work and took more time than I cared for. So there are pros and cons to each.
although a 1 year old ship with a fresh paint job for her maiden voyage should not have gray cloudy bits and other weathering, it sure makes it pop more to the eye!
Absolutely beautiful and meticulous work! One question: did the schematic provide accurate placement of the Plimsoll line....I ask not as a criticism of your work but because it appears to be slightly different from images of the ship itself. Best wishes for a happy and healthy Easter, my friend.
So yes and no. The schematic in the book Titanic Ship Magnificent shows where a line should go and appears to make sense. However, the kit provided hull does not correspond with that schematic. I think if I could bring it up a little bit that would help. The drain holes according to the schematic are below it. But some pics and opinions are that they should be just above it so they can discharge the waste. So.... I don't know. Everyone has an opinion.
Recommend that you preform the small gear covers over the gears and set them aside to place them on last. Thinking it would be easier.
Your opinion. You think the pontos set is the best upgrade for this kit? Great video as always and thank you.
Well… I’m not sure. I think if I could only pick one, I’d get the KA set.
Ben, great build video again. I have a question. I'm sure you've mentioned it in one of your Missouri build videos, but what is the pencil you use with the yellow nib and where do you get it from please? Many thanks
It’s a wax pencil used for doing women’s nails. They use it to pick up little things and glue them to their fingernails or so I’m told. I searched a them on Amazon and found a pack of them for $5? They are awesome.
greetings, I was wondering where I can go to get the Amateur 3D printed benches :) any help would be appreciated! thank you. Jay
The only way I know how is to reach out to them on FB. The proprietor has a new job and I haven’t heard from him much since he started it. However, I saw a post a while back stating they were still in business…. So. You’ll just have to track them down and see what you get.
these k a parts are delicate... any cutting can break
Looks great, but noticed you mixed up the big gears. One has triangular holes, the other has circular holes. 2 of them have one type in the rear, and the third one has the other type of gear.
Cool, thanks
How do you pait the water line between the red and black. I'm having trouble?
Go to the first video in the series. I cover that process in detail. Good luck!
Looks good so far, I just think the red is a little too bright. On my boat, the red is a little darker.
@Louis Cypher could be, I didn't think about that.
yikes the pontos upgrade for Missouri is $457 usd on ebay?
Hi where do I get the drill bits from will my local model shop sell them or can I get the drill bits from Dermal as I have one
Thought you had lost that bit of the gear when it pinged off to be eaten by the carpet monster,the hours we spend on the floor looking for pinged pieces.
thanks for great vids. where did you get the drill bits you drilled winch drums
Drillbitsunlimited.com
Where does one obtain a 'lighting panel' as seen behind you? (Star Trek, Return of the Archons) Cool Beans-!
I think I found that at Hobby Lobby, randomly.
hello, what paint was used for the red waterline?
I used a bunch of reds in the first video.
Nice mug! Where do you get it?
Disney World 🏰
What brands of CA glue is good for this model?
How did you avoid any paint bleed on the sheer line. It looks very crisp?
I used Tamiya masking tape and pushed the edges down firmly with my fingers. Then I painted the line with 3 VERY light coats of paint to build up to the desired coverage. Most of the time bleeding happens because too much paint is being applied at once.
To help stop paint bleed after you lat the tape down spray flat clear over the tape let dry , then spray the next color
By comparison, the kit steam winches look very crude.
Having said that, the kit winches still pass the 10 foot rule.
A lot of effort and expense for very little gain.
Exactly. There’s nothing wrong with them from that distance.
Modern water-based acrylics are very durable and are the paint of choice by the majority of modelers. There are many brands available, and many come with additives to make them very easy to apply with airbrushes. Acrylics dry within minutes and do not emit harmful fumes. Enamels are now considered a poor choice because they are oil-based paint and often take weeks to dry. They also require thinners that emit fumes. During that long drying time, they can be easily damaged. Lacquers dry very fast, but they fade over time and are not the best choice if the model will be displayed under lighting. They also have a fume problem.
Enamel paints do not take weeks to dry. Unless you are in an outrageously humid and cool environment. My problem is, there is (for me) no one stop shop for acrylics. With the good old model master enamels, you could brush paint them right out of the bottle. Or thin them to airbrush and they had every color under the sun. Flat or gloss was always available. Now I use Tamiya for airbrushing because they spray well but you have to use their thinner. You can’t really brush paint it though. Model master acrylics work well for brushing but will dry up and clog an airbrush quickly, even with thinner. Acrylics are the modern choice only because manufacturers are discontinuing enamels. And it’s a shame. I think they are a much better choice, regardless of the fumes.
I agree Ben, Model Master is the best. Are you clear coating all the tamiya you spray?
Yeah that’s the plan. Right now the only Tamiya is the white and the flesh color for the funnels. But I think sealing it is the best decision.
@@TheMidwestModelShop I always use Tamiya acrylics, then apply a coat of Johnson's Klear (or Future) polish, then a coat of Testor's dullcote. You cannot beat the flat effect of the Testor's IMO. Enamels are probably better paints, but I hate the mess they make and the cleaning of airbrushes and everything else. Each to their own I guess.
The Nomadic is on display in Belfast, would that be a good reference as to the "red" that's needed for the hull??? They might have differed from ship to ship, it's difficult to know I suppose.
It’s all a matter of opinion. There just no where to look with any certainty, to figure out the “correct” red. The nomadic has been repainted several times, at least. And newer and improved anti fowling would have been used each time. That’s why it is simply best to go with what pleases your eye. Because after all, it’s your model 😉
@@TheMidwestModelShop I did figure it had been repainted, I also know there are websites about the "white star buff" used for the funnels and there is no certainty there either....oh well....So exciting to see yours developping though!
Where I can get the 3D printed parts?
Maybe switch the whip with the longer shaft to the side the short whip is in...
Upon review, I just needed to squeeze that first PE bracket together and that closes the gap. I did try switching them around, and they are the same size.
I asked a friend who has a friend that lives in Belfast that says his great grandfather worked four the Harland and Wolf warehouse that says ship hulls are antifouling paint with copper oxide. That is third hand notice. they build modern ship models and I build sail, so I am no expert. I just basecoat in copper or white.
Do you really need much weathering on the hull? The ship was new.
Yeah it's not so much weathering. Also, she was already painted AGAIN on the port side prior to her voyage. I don't think paint was that "good" back then as it is today or even 20 years after she went down.
@Louis Cypher Dry brushing would work better if you just want to accent raised panel lines. It can create a sheen from available light falling on the surface to give it a very natural look. It would work especially well on a large model like this where you expect it to reflect sunlight as you look at the model from different angles.
I really like your videos and content. But your videos are running a little long. I like to watch a video all at once and it's difficult for me to find and hour to do that. Can you split into 2? Either way, I'll continue to follow you and enjoy watching. Thanks
Yeah I plan in my head what I want to cover and then hope it doesn’t take too long. I was hoping to have a 35 min film. You’re right I could have split this one in two. I’m planning on making the next one pretty short.
where can I get this specific model. I got a 1/200 scale from the museum in tennessee.
On Amazon or have your local hobby shop order you one.
Although on amazon they are quite pricey where im at
See if you can have your hobby shop order it for you. At least with mine, if they order it, I don’t have to pay for shipping.
Technically there is no right or wrong when painting it. The big thing is the scale you are working with. A smaller model should have lighter colors than a bigger one. But at the end of the day, paint it the way you are satisfied with your model.
38:32.. There is no way I can do this. My eyes can never focus since I was young. I am 37.
Titanic was brand new. Why do you need to weather it??
You don’t “need” too. But it had weathering already. There was rust on the starboard side almost immediately.
It was built next to and then on the sea. Sea air is more damaging.
The Titanic was not "new". It was an evolving structure that took years to build. It had spaces and surfaces that were painted at different times and withstood outside elements, salt and sea air (which is highly corroesive) before it even left for it's maiden voyage.
White Star repainted the ship for the maiden voyage but only the port side of the ship which was the side of the ship everyone would see on the pier. It was to costly and time consuming to have the entire ship repainted for it's maiden voyage.
You could expect the starboard side to have had a worn look as well as rust.
A ship that large is something that requires constant upkeep to keep "appearances" and at no time will the entire thing have a new appearance.
Even when the ship is considered "brand new"
@@themilkman1188 And we can’t be certain that they painted the entire port side either. It’s likely that they just touched up scrapes and rust spots. I’m guessing there were sections of fresh paint scattered across the port side, covering obvious blemishes, while the rest may have been lightly weathered black / white.
#ShipMakeup
I'll talk to Nora about starting a line...... look for it soon at a store near you : )
@@TheMidwestModelShop Maybe She's Born with it...Maybe it's primer.
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I have this model
Me too.