I have had a few people mention they feel like they are taking advantage of the situation with this info being out there for free. I want to let you all know that I am doing this to help spread the word of my knowledge on the sport to bring more interest into the seminars that my wife and I have been hosting around the world.... The best thing you could do is to spread the word about this RUclips Channel and to get this info out there for people to use. There isn't enough solid resources for information with experience to back it up and there is a huge void with first hand experience as a top level archer. You can help out the community at large and encourage it to grow. Support for this channel is generated from views, subscribers and the books/seminars that we have available on my website www.jakekaminski.com There is also Amazon Affiliate links to tools and gear listed in the description so be sure to check that stuff out if you are in need of the tools or equipment I use. A book containing the information from the tuning series is in the works and I am excited to get that out there as another resource for you, the archery community to enjoy.
Hello Jake I have a question that how do I select suitable arrows for different -2 punds and people is there is any book or guide or anything plz suggest...
being able to shoot well is one thing. Being able to explain all this clearly to anyone including a non native english speaker such as myself, is another thing. And you seem to master both. Thank you for putting this series up ! Very helpful
man you are a goldmine of information. Thanks for putting it out here for everyone.
3 года назад+9
Your descriptions and explanations are by far some of the best on RUclips. Thank you! But since I'm European I just must say when you're talking about inches my brain goes into some slow-motion mode. 6 and15/16'th inch?!? LOL......I have absolutely now reference point in my brain. It could be the thickness of my hair, or the length of my car...... You: I measure 6 and 15/16th inch.......... Me: HUH?!? My Brain: 1 inch is 2,54cm therefore 6 inch is 6x2,54 = 15,24cm, then plus 15/16th inch equal 2,54 divided by 16 then multiplied by 15 is 2,38 plus 15,24 is 17,62cm..... Me: (5 minute later) Ah, you mean 17,62cm You: ......and next episode we are going to talk about.......
Glad to see you back, Jake. You are providing much needed resources that I am very happy to be able to share with new instructors and coaches. A real service to the sport. Thank you!
I have been away from the sport for 50 years; your videos are helping me to catch up with getting back to this great sport. Thank You for sharing all your expertise. Rich
i know this video has been out for almost 3 years now but I do want to thank you for the great information. I recently decided to start looking for ranges and clubs for archery and found 1. Waiting to get info on joining atm. In the mean time I am looking for information on everything and how to train and get accustomed to all the terminology. Your video's are a god send :) Thank you. I am getting more and more excited to start shooting now.
Needed this bro, I am 67 and started shooting recurve this August, making good progress and comfortable at 29lbs; can pull 34 but will make the transition around March. I don't have an ILF, however this info is helpful.
A good tip for newish archers is that once they find the correct row on a spine chart, they can use any of the arrows listed in that row if cut to the length indicated for the draw length. This has the advantage of disabusing them form thinking there is only one right shift for them. This is limited, of course by the archer's draw length. If it is long, many of the shorter arrows are not available for safety reasons. Later when they are outdoors and distance shooting is involved, the lightest arrow, advantageous in distance events, will be the one that can be cut very close to their actual draw weight and so the number of options from a single chart is much smaller.
Just a quick note, worth mentioning that you should always check you bow manual on how to adjust your tiller/bow weight as some older bows require you to unstrung the bow before you make any adjustments. But great video, looking forward to the next one!
reviewing this video at minute 13:47 I remembered that you need to verify where is cero (0) for the T square. Some rulers may use the string clips (the channel) and others may use the actual side of the the ruller closest to the string. I used a tape measure with mine and the cero is flat against the ruller on the side of the strings so using the string clips will add a few milimiters or a fraction of an inch and you could be off according to the factory numbers. It is probably safest and more accurate to push the string all the way against the ruler.
Excellent videos. Just what I needed. Love how you clearly explain the details. Thank you, I will be watching your videos and setting up my equipment as you go.
Awesome video Jake! I would have one thing to add in the brace height segment; increasing brace height will increase draw weight as well. A couple of turns of the string won’t do much but going from one end of the allowable range to the other will be more significant.
Thanks for the encouragement, however I beg to differ on the bow weight increasing. It simply doesn’t, however a higher brace height does make your arrows weaker but only because of when the arrow decouples from the string within the power stroke. I’ll cover that more on the brace height section for sure.
Jake Kaminski, I’ll be looking forward for that segment. However, intuitively thinking, when you shorten the string at full draw the limb tips would come back further. It’s true that the power stroke is made shorter so much difference in arrow speed won’t be measured. But I would think pulling back the limb tips more should result in a slightly increased poundage at the fingers. Or am I missing something?
𝖘 𝖍 𝖎 𝖗 𝖔 your’e correct on it pulling the limb tips back at brace height. Not at full draw. Your clicker clicks at the same point in the draw cycle. Borrow someone’s string for a 2” shorter bow and check your draw weight with a scale. It will be the same despite having a 14” brace height.
This information you are sharing with us. Is really awesome information and I appreciate what you are doing for me. Have you made a set of dvds that we can buy
I'm going to follow your series all the way through . I'm going to ask questions as they pop into my head . At 10;40 you said when we pull back to full draw the limbs are in balance How do you know the limbs are balanced at full draw ? Could you tell me at what part in the tiller section you talked about how you know you have it set correctly . If you want less pressure on your top finger or more pressure on your top finger is the tiller adjustment used for this ? Okay never mind I see now this is just a rough setting and you are going to go into fine adjustment of the balance later on .
Hello Jake. Great series of videos you are putting out there & very informative. With regards to increasing bow weight on a Hoyt Factor riser is there an optimum position of the bolts order to get the best performance out of the limbs?
Not all limb bolds are straight, some Kap risers have concentric bolts that you can use for limb alignment. If you want to adjust the drawwight, you have to do it 180 degrees or the limbs alignment is wrong ;-)
Hey Jake ,first thanks a lot for all your free info. i was watching and waiting till you get to the nocking point . i wanted to know at what hight you set the nocking point . i dident see you explaining this part , did i miss it or did you forgot . kind regarts keep up your great work cheeers
I’ve been under the impression that W&W draw weight is measured 26.25” to the throat of the grip and AMO ie everyone else measures 28” to the back (far side) of the bow which really amounts to the same thing. Is this wrong? Also thanks for everything you do for archery, you are a great help to all of us, and come to Australia soon.
Hi Jake, great video, thanks for sharing with us. Got one question regarding the arrow spine. Easton for example, in their arrow selection table gives the spine values for given arrow length and draw weight. But what's the relation of the spine with the point mass? I know that heavier points will make arrow to flex more due to the inertia so dynamic spine is affected, but how much? For example if I take mine 30" X23s and replace 160 grain points with say 200, how much the spine will change?
Ill try to cover that in the arrow building series. Generally that small of a change in point weight will be maybe a full turn on your limb bolts difference in tune.
Is it ok to adjust the tiller like that whilst strung? I see others saying to only do this unstrung and string it up each time to get after adjustment? Leaving it strung looks much quicker and easier though!
Would you prefer setting the tiller based on manufacturer recommended measurement or with high-speed-video so that both limbs reach neutral at the same time?
Hi Jake, isn't it better to unstring the bow befor adjusting the tillerbolts? I've done that before with my bow without unstringing it and I killed the inner thread of my riser. Tiller bolts like they are used by w&w are working like a screw tap, if you turn them under pressure. Thanks for this video!
Yeah you should unstring the bow especially if you are using aluminum limb bolts in an aluminum riser, they can seize in the bow. I was using a set of steel limb bolts that had been hard coated in that riser. However I usually unstring the bow to adjust bow weight, but leave it together when adjusting tiller since its such a small movement.
You didn't mention that when measuring brace height that if you use your recommended technique and then the technique of butting the square up against the string you will get different numbers. The zero point of the bow square is where the string is in your technique which is atop two little plateaus rising out of the square. They just started making bow squares with two scales on themm one for using the clips and one for using the butt of the bow square.
Hi Jake, I have questions that's not hully covered in manuals. What bowstring material is preferred by olympians, 8125? And also, I can see that the string on bow You tune, looks quite heavy for 30lbs (lot of strands) and here is my second question, is it okey to manipulate the recomended number os strands? If i use more strands in bowstring and go with softer arrows, how this affect overall bow performence?
As a rule of thumb, machinists tells us that a bolt needs to be threaded into a hole a length equal to its diameter (for safety). So, a half in ch bolt needs to be screwed in a minimum of one half inch. So, you can take your limb bolts, make a mark on on equal to the diameter of the bolt. Then screw it in up to that mark. Counting the turns from that point to all of the way in provides the maximum number of turns that a limb bolt can be screwed out on any bow. (I try to avoid being right up to that limit because I think the rule of thumb was created for steel threads and we often enough have steel threads screwing into aluminum.
Wait... how then is brace height influence the tiller ? Understand it does not influence the ratio between upper and lower tiller but the absolute number would change ?
In my experience, brace height has a negligible change on tiller settings. Yes the number would go up if brace height is going up, but what we worry about in tiller settings is the "split" or the difference between the top and bottom.
Hi Jake!, I am shooting a Zero difference in the tillers on my bow, i.e. both the top and bottom are same.. I have been shooting this configuration for about 4 years now. I shoot Hoyt Faktor 27" and Velos 46 long. Should I change it or leave it? Thank you!
I find that tiller makes a big difference in how the string feels on your draw fingers. With no split you will feel less tension on your lower finger which may or may not be of benefit. We will cover that more later on.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery i was just joshing. The camera angle made it look like it was more than 8.5. Ive been binge watching your videos. Have a recurve coming in tomorrow
You risk damage to the limbs and the riser, specifically a risk of the limb bolts ripping out. I believe the absolute limit is 6.5 turns out but I wouldn't go past 6 out.
Very cringey to turn the limb bolts without unstringing first! That’s a quick way to mess up the threads since they are aluminum and not so tough without grease.
You didn't mention that when measuring brace height that if you use your recommended technique and then the technique of butting the square up against the string you will get different numbers. The zero point of the bow square is where the string is in your technique which is atop two little plateaus rising out of the square. They just started making bow squares with two scales on themm one for using the clips and one for using the butt of the bow square.
I have had a few people mention they feel like they are taking advantage of the situation with this info being out there for free. I want to let you all know that I am doing this to help spread the word of my knowledge on the sport to bring more interest into the seminars that my wife and I have been hosting around the world....
The best thing you could do is to spread the word about this RUclips Channel and to get this info out there for people to use. There isn't enough solid resources for information with experience to back it up and there is a huge void with first hand experience as a top level archer. You can help out the community at large and encourage it to grow.
Support for this channel is generated from views, subscribers and the books/seminars that we have available on my website www.jakekaminski.com
There is also Amazon Affiliate links to tools and gear listed in the description so be sure to check that stuff out if you are in need of the tools or equipment I use.
A book containing the information from the tuning series is in the works and I am excited to get that out there as another resource for you, the archery community to enjoy.
Hello Jake I have a question that how do I select suitable arrows for different -2 punds and people is there is any book or guide or anything plz suggest...
being able to shoot well is one thing. Being able to explain all this clearly to anyone including a non native english speaker such as myself, is another thing. And you seem to master both. Thank you for putting this series up ! Very helpful
Great information Jake! Getting back into the sport and coaching middle school Olympic Archery in the Schools these videos are really helping!
man you are a goldmine of information. Thanks for putting it out here for everyone.
Your descriptions and explanations are by far some of the best on RUclips. Thank you! But since I'm European I just must say when you're talking about inches my brain goes into some slow-motion mode. 6 and15/16'th inch?!? LOL......I have absolutely now reference point in my brain. It could be the thickness of my hair, or the length of my car......
You: I measure 6 and 15/16th inch..........
Me: HUH?!?
My Brain: 1 inch is 2,54cm therefore 6 inch is 6x2,54 = 15,24cm, then plus 15/16th inch equal 2,54 divided by 16 then multiplied by 15 is 2,38 plus 15,24 is 17,62cm.....
Me: (5 minute later) Ah, you mean 17,62cm
You: ......and next episode we are going to talk about.......
There's a reason the imperial system is all but dead.
Glad to see you back, Jake. You are providing much needed resources that I am very happy to be able to share with new instructors and coaches. A real service to the sport. Thank you!
I have been away from the sport for 50 years; your videos are helping me to catch up with getting back to this great sport. Thank You for sharing all your expertise. Rich
i know this video has been out for almost 3 years now but I do want to thank you for the great information.
I recently decided to start looking for ranges and clubs for archery and found 1.
Waiting to get info on joining atm.
In the mean time I am looking for information on everything and how to train and get accustomed to all the terminology.
Your video's are a god send :)
Thank you.
I am getting more and more excited to start shooting now.
Needed this bro, I am 67 and started shooting recurve this August, making good progress and comfortable at 29lbs; can pull 34 but will make the transition around
March. I don't have an ILF, however this info is helpful.
I did know all that but it’s good for some one that is good to let you know you are doing it right good man
It is interesting that you go with the brace height of the limb, rather than the riser :) Thanks
Especially important when using more radical limbs like the Uuhka and Border limbs.
This is the clearest explanation that I have been able to find. Thank you so much Jake!
Quality content, Kudos!
A good tip for newish archers is that once they find the correct row on a spine chart, they can use any of the arrows listed in that row if cut to the length indicated for the draw length. This has the advantage of disabusing them form thinking there is only one right shift for them. This is limited, of course by the archer's draw length. If it is long, many of the shorter arrows are not available for safety reasons. Later when they are outdoors and distance shooting is involved, the lightest arrow, advantageous in distance events, will be the one that can be cut very close to their actual draw weight and so the number of options from a single chart is much smaller.
Just a quick note, worth mentioning that you should always check you bow manual on how to adjust your tiller/bow weight as some older bows require you to unstrung the bow before you make any adjustments. But great video, looking forward to the next one!
Great and informative. Thanks jake.
reviewing this video at minute 13:47 I remembered that you need to verify where is cero (0) for the T square. Some rulers may use the string clips (the channel) and others may use the actual side of the the ruller closest to the string. I used a tape measure with mine and the cero is flat against the ruller on the side of the strings so using the string clips will add a few milimiters or a fraction of an inch and you could be off according to the factory numbers. It is probably safest and more accurate to push the string all the way against the ruler.
Jake is my spirit animal lol :)
Great video, thx a lot)
Excellent videos. Just what I needed. Love how you clearly explain the details. Thank you, I will be watching your videos and setting up my equipment as you go.
99.9% Clear... Thanks so much!!
This is so good
Awesome video Jake! I would have one thing to add in the brace height segment; increasing brace height will increase draw weight as well. A couple of turns of the string won’t do much but going from one end of the allowable range to the other will be more significant.
Thanks for the encouragement, however I beg to differ on the bow weight increasing. It simply doesn’t, however a higher brace height does make your arrows weaker but only because of when the arrow decouples from the string within the power stroke.
I’ll cover that more on the brace height section for sure.
Jake Kaminski, I’ll be looking forward for that segment. However, intuitively thinking, when you shorten the string at full draw the limb tips would come back further. It’s true that the power stroke is made shorter so much difference in arrow speed won’t be measured.
But I would think pulling back the limb tips more should result in a slightly increased poundage at the fingers.
Or am I missing something?
𝖘 𝖍 𝖎 𝖗 𝖔 your’e correct on it pulling the limb tips back at brace height. Not at full draw. Your clicker clicks at the same point in the draw cycle.
Borrow someone’s string for a 2” shorter bow and check your draw weight with a scale. It will be the same despite having a 14” brace height.
Great content. Thanks so much for this!
Thanks Jake, Great Stuff!
I ❤️
This information you are sharing with us. Is really awesome information and I appreciate what you are doing for me.
Have you made a set of dvds that we can buy
I'm going to follow your series all the way through . I'm going to ask questions as they pop into my head . At 10;40 you said when we pull back to full draw the limbs are in balance How do you know the limbs are balanced at full draw ? Could you tell me at what part in the tiller section you talked about how you know you have it set correctly . If you want less pressure on your top finger or more pressure on your top finger is the tiller adjustment used for this ? Okay never mind I see now this is just a rough setting and you are going to go into fine adjustment of the balance later on .
Great videos, you have a lot of knowledge. Maybe to show less and slower in one video and using a barebow no to confuse
Hello Jake. Great series of videos you are putting out there & very informative. With regards to increasing bow weight on a Hoyt Factor riser is there an optimum position of the bolts order to get the best performance out of the limbs?
Not all limb bolds are straight, some Kap risers have concentric
bolts that you can use for limb alignment. If you want to adjust the drawwight, you have to do it 180 degrees or the limbs alignment is wrong ;-)
nice
Hey Jake ,first thanks a lot for all your free info. i was watching and waiting till you get to the nocking point . i wanted to know at what hight you set the nocking point . i dident see you explaining this part , did i miss it or did you forgot . kind regarts keep up your great work cheeers
I’ll do a video entirely dedicated to nocking points.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery oooo great thanks a lot . have a good day
I’ve been under the impression that W&W draw weight is measured 26.25” to the throat of the grip and AMO ie everyone else measures 28” to the back (far side) of the bow which really amounts to the same thing. Is this wrong? Also thanks for everything you do for archery, you are a great help to all of us, and come to Australia soon.
Hi Jake, great video, thanks for sharing with us. Got one question regarding the arrow spine. Easton for example, in their arrow selection table gives the spine values for given arrow length and draw weight. But what's the relation of the spine with the point mass? I know that heavier points will make arrow to flex more due to the inertia so dynamic spine is affected, but how much? For example if I take mine 30" X23s and replace 160 grain points with say 200, how much the spine will change?
Ill try to cover that in the arrow building series. Generally that small of a change in point weight will be maybe a full turn on your limb bolts difference in tune.
also usually Easton's charts reference the stock point weight (usually 100 grains +/-)
Is it ok to adjust the tiller like that whilst strung? I see others saying to only do this unstrung and string it up each time to get after adjustment? Leaving it strung looks much quicker and easier though!
Excellent video. However, you didn't talk about the nocking point.
How should tiller variance adjust between split finder, three under or string walking even lower?
Would you prefer setting the tiller based on manufacturer recommended measurement or with high-speed-video so that both limbs reach neutral at the same time?
Ill cover how I set my tiller in a video coming up.
Hi Jake,
isn't it better to unstring the bow befor adjusting the tillerbolts?
I've done that before with my bow without unstringing it and I killed the inner thread of my riser.
Tiller bolts like they are used by w&w are working like a screw tap, if you turn them under pressure.
Thanks for this video!
Yeah you should unstring the bow especially if you are using aluminum limb bolts in an aluminum riser, they can seize in the bow. I was using a set of steel limb bolts that had been hard coated in that riser. However I usually unstring the bow to adjust bow weight, but leave it together when adjusting tiller since its such a small movement.
Do u think that something like the hoyt stealth shot for recurvr will comeback, cause the science behind it is very interesting
If it was implemented correctly I think it would have been popular and more successful.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery yeah, I agree, it was a really cool product, I owned one
You didn't mention that when measuring brace height that if you use your recommended technique and then the technique of butting the square up against the string you will get different numbers. The zero point of the bow square is where the string is in your technique which is atop two little plateaus rising out of the square. They just started making bow squares with two scales on themm one for using the clips and one for using the butt of the bow square.
18:27 that is the meanest looking target arrow I've ever seen...
I shoot Barebow with string walking. Would you recommend a positive, neutral, or negative tiller?
I was told NOT to adjust tiller with the bow strung to avoid damaging the threads.
Hi Jake,
I have questions that's not hully covered in manuals. What bowstring material is preferred by olympians, 8125?
And also, I can see that the string on bow You tune, looks quite heavy for 30lbs (lot of strands) and here is my second question, is it okey to manipulate the recomended number os strands? If i use more strands in bowstring and go with softer arrows, how this affect overall bow performence?
As a rule of thumb, machinists tells us that a bolt needs to be threaded into a hole a length equal to its diameter (for safety). So, a half in ch bolt needs to be screwed in a minimum of one half inch. So, you can take your limb bolts, make a mark on on equal to the diameter of the bolt. Then screw it in up to that mark. Counting the turns from that point to all of the way in provides the maximum number of turns that a limb bolt can be screwed out on any bow. (I try to avoid being right up to that limit because I think the rule of thumb was created for steel threads and we often enough have steel threads screwing into aluminum.
Wait... how then is brace height influence the tiller ? Understand it does not influence the ratio between upper and lower tiller but the absolute number would change ?
In my experience, brace height has a negligible change on tiller settings. Yes the number would go up if brace height is going up, but what we worry about in tiller settings is the "split" or the difference between the top and bottom.
When you are setting up the sight on the bow for initial tuning should you adjust the pin to be directly over the string?
Chris Gentile usually mine end up outside of center. Maybe 2mm or so.
Can you leave the bow strung when you are adjusting Limb weight?
If you are moving it a lot you should unstring.
Hi jake , what is the size of the limbs? 70 or 68
Thanks in advance , we owe you
Hi Jake!,
I am shooting a Zero difference in the tillers on my bow, i.e. both the top and bottom are same..
I have been shooting this configuration for about 4 years now. I shoot Hoyt Faktor 27" and Velos 46 long.
Should I change it or leave it?
Thank you!
I find that tiller makes a big difference in how the string feels on your draw fingers. With no split you will feel less tension on your lower finger which may or may not be of benefit. We will cover that more later on.
13:47
Jake "here is 8 and 1 half inches"
*the machinist in me*
Nope
8.500 sounds better? I could get the calipers out if you'd prefer.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery i was just joshing. The camera angle made it look like it was more than 8.5. Ive been binge watching your videos. Have a recurve coming in tomorrow
Hi Jake,
I have just another question:
What typ of string with how many strands you are shooting on how much bowweight?
Thanks in advance!
Ill cover that in a string video. I run 20 strands of 8125 sized material at 46ish lbs. I would recommend 18 strands for around 40 lbs and less.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Many thanks for your answer, I will try that, next string. So long...
I'm using a Hoyt Formula X riser, my tiller bolts are more than 6 turns out for sure... Is that a problem? Does it affect the shot?
You risk damage to the limbs and the riser, specifically a risk of the limb bolts ripping out. I believe the absolute limit is 6.5 turns out but I wouldn't go past 6 out.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Okay, I'll see what i can do, thanks!!
Hi Jake, why do I hear a rooster in your video? (at 2:20).
We have chickens. He’s annoying but protects the flock.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery That's awesome! Organic fletching... the next big thing!
No! My limbs have no markings at all!!!!!!!×! Now what???
Very cringey to turn the limb bolts without unstringing first! That’s a quick way to mess up the threads since they are aluminum and not so tough without grease.
You didn't mention that when measuring brace height that if you use your recommended technique and then the technique of butting the square up against the string you will get different numbers. The zero point of the bow square is where the string is in your technique which is atop two little plateaus rising out of the square. They just started making bow squares with two scales on themm one for using the clips and one for using the butt of the bow square.