I have identical furnace. I put a barrier (scoop) to prevent the air flow going down to the deep dead space. It really works. I set the thermostat to 71F inside the house and it is cold now compare when it doesn’t have the scoop. 👍
the box is so the air does not not bounce back up into the coil, by blocking it off you increase static pressure . it will cause blower motor to burn out prematurely .hvac for 39 years as installer. absolutely never ever do, this, if you do this the customer will be replacing air handler in half the time as it should last.
You are wrong. He didn’t block anything. He made a smooth transition for air. You have not been in the business 39 years or you would have recognized this.
@@JP-pq9xiNo reason other than that was the height they wanted the furnace at. That dead end plenum did cause turbulence and the poster certainly improved the situation.
It took me about 20 minutes to install it on my own. As long as you can lift it out the box and up into position you’re good. I did have to break the box to get it out as it was a snug fit. I followed the installation video on you tube which was a big help. I added this to support central air in my house that was struggling upstairs because of my house design. Lovely unit. Very quiet ruclips.net/user/postUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5T and looks sharp. Had it in a couple of weeks and so far so good. It’s cooling a bedroom about 25ft X 15 no problem at all.
I saw a video by a commercial air conditioning tech years ago. He said that most central air setups actually don't have enough return air capacity. My condo is two stories with the only return air vent on the first floor and the unit is on the second floor, so I added three more return air vents just under the AC unit on the second floor. The original unit which was about 50 years old, was still working, but now working a lot more efficiently. Last year, I had the whole system changed out and wow, this new unit really cools down the condo very efficiently! On triple digit days, I have the thermostat set for 80 degrees and it is really comfortable.
I have long arms and with the deflector off, I could feel a round sheet metal valve used for air balancing. After toys, dirt, cat hair (no cat) but able to open the valve by pushing on it. The basement ceiling is finished and this is the only way in. I have almost twice the air flow now. Thank you kindly for the information in the video. The anemometer is a small DC generator. The faster it spins, the higher the voltage goes for the digital circuitry to display. Thanks much. Great info always worth watching.
Also learn about adjusting your air handler blower speed (you'll need the manual). General Guidelines: 425 to 450 CFM per Ton (large number of supply ducts, long duct runs, cathedral ceilings, large open rooms) 400 CFM per Ton (STANDARD / default) 325 to 350 CFM per Ton (for high humidity areas like Florida, when the AC is sized too large, turning off and on too often and/or not dehumidifying well) And make sure you ducts are not leaking in the attic due to poor or degraded connections. There are many reasons for a weak blower including malfunctions of the blower motor, dirty blower, dirty evaporator coil, dirty air filter, air filter too restrictive (over Merv 8), etc. etc. An inspection by an HVAC expert is advised. Maintenance on your AC system should be performed by an HVAC expert once a year when the AC is used in the summer only and twice a year when the AC is used year-round. Note: It's best to consult with an HVAC expert, especially if you don't really know what you're doing. Remember, thoroughly research and learn first, then act. Otherwise, consult with an expert.
I agree with most of what you said but it was a so- called HVAC expert that set it up inefficiently in the first place. My experience in all areas of construction and life...
Overall I liked the fix, but to label your RUclips "How to make your AC Blow stronger and faster and Colder..." is somewhat inaccurate sir. You fixed a VERY unusual designed AC unit which does not represent the vast majority.
Why do modern day hvac system have no flow? This is a modern day problem. Furnaces when I was a kid would blow you away with the air coming out of the vents. I can blow harder then modern day HVAC
Whew... thank you! I'm still dealing with a hot room in my 1639 sqft home...I know its been a hot year! I'm still after sealing my windows and checking for thermal spots to get to what you just showed us. Thanks for this idea. Have a good one.
check the temperature of your ceiling. in our hot room (furthest from the ac), the ceiling measured 95 degrees. i went up into the attic and found there was no insulation. i added insulation and it dropped the ceiling temp to 87. we live in south east florida. the room is still not as cool as the rest of the house (south facing). i wish it has it's own zone but the hvac techs said it wasn't necessary. we spent over $20k on new heat pump and ducting. it helped but still not as cool as the rest of the home. they wanted to charge over $8k to zone it. i should have zoned it instead of replacing the hvac.
@@TeamMadcrew yeah...and my hot room has plenty of insulation on it as well...all up to code...it's just weird to me how I keep hearing about this...one room is either too hot or freezing cold in a home 🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️
u gotta take readings all the way across and get an average. cant just use one spot. i know for gas u gotta be up at least 16 " off the ground. check static pressure
Easiest way to close the edges is spray foam, then cover with plastic wrap and shape into a scoop. After it cures you can remove the plastic wrap or leave it there.
lol All that had to be done is two 1" x 2s" Screw them on both sides at a slight downward angle to the duct going out. Then just cut the sheet metal in a rectangle using the 1 x 2s to hold it from falling to the bottom of the void. Not rocket science. Thenyou can put a little caulk along the edges if you want it air tight....
I have one or two rooms that don't get much air flow but not the whole house. I have had experts look at it and they don't seem to know what to do about it. Do you know why this is and what can be done to fix it?
How big are your "cold air returns?" If you have too big of returns or one of them is very close to the furnace - you're sucking in too much air volume to to equalize the pressure and have proper output / flow through the entire system.
@@FixThisHouse Another thing that helps big time is return duct design. each floor should have 2 large louvered return ducts at floor and ceiling level. You open or close one of them depending on season. open top in summer to suck heat from ceiling and open lower in winter to suck cold off floor. They installed central in my parents house with return ducts in first floor floor only and upstairs temp was 50*F hotter than down with A/C on until I cut the walls open and added return duct upstairs. Now the A/C cycles when the temp reaches the T-Stat and stays off for hours, before it ran 24/7 non stop.
Hi thanks for the info my home. Is a high ceiling house before my warranty ended they replace the motor and it’s located in the roof but I have very little flow how can I get more flow what motor do I need I’m willing to to bug a stronger motor
This would increase static pressure significantly causing the unit to work much harder. Do not do this. This wasn't a design oversight, it was meant to be this way.
Do not use Pleated Filters. My new AC System was installed this year and the Company who installed here in Virginia has been in the AC business for 40 years said to always use Flanders EZ Flow Fiberglass Filters and change them every 30 days. Date them with a fine marker on the side when you install them and always pay attention to the direction of the arrow. The arrow always goes up. Pleated AC Filters restrict Air Flow in your system , put extra strain on you blower motor and increases your electric bill. This from Master AC Technicians .
Anyone with half a brain doesn't use a screw gun on sheet metal screws that have already been cut into a hole, it just strips the hole out then you have screws falling out. A ratchet or nut driver is the correct tool for this job.
Please do not do what he is saying! I am an ac tech with 30 years experience and what he is doing will make things worse not better. If he wants better air flow he needs to have his system checked by a professional. That "void" he is filling is to help pressurize the duct work evenly.
I appreciate many of your videos but your logic in this one is flawed and amateur. You are eliminating a deliberate feature in the furnace without researching what it was for. If its there, there's probably a reason.
no. i've spent a lot of money correcting poorly installed hvac system. i even told the new hvac expert that i wanted the hottest room in the house the same temp as the rest of the house. paid over $20k and still not correctly balanced. he wants more $$$ to do what i want him to do. hvac techs are not experts, they are just techs that install equipment. hvac engineer is what i should have consulted.
You need dampers in your ducts to fix this issue. What you did, will reduce the life of blower as the air gets backed into to blower. There is a reason that hole is there. Its by design.
Putting vents on the floor is an extremely bad design in homes. A lot of vehicles have the same bad design. Vents should be placed up high and in the middle so the cold air falls down on you.
You want to keep your vents inside the building envelope. If you duct in the unconditioned space like an attic, you pick up additional latent heat and decrease your cooling. It's also the same for the heating season. Cutting into possible strucutural wall framing causes even more issues, therefore that's why floor registers are often used.
That's funny, because faster moving air is HOTTER than slower moving air. So, this is counter to the laws of physics. Reducing the speed of the air allows the air temp to be lower and more consistent.
I’ve *never* seen a pit design like that. Maybe it’s a regional thing? It’s sure not going to help people in areas that stick their air handlers in the attic.
Please don’t do this… this guy is not an HVAC technician…. Smh 🤦🏻♂️ Do not…. I repeat… DO NOT close off room vents to “make other rooms stronger” it doesn’t work like that and it actually ruins your system. The only way you can truly fix you’re airflow problem is to get a certified HVAC technician to see if you’re duct system is made correctly for your system and if you’re system is even the right size for your house.
You can discover things with yourself to I’m prove things better that the certified HVAC technician doesn’t know. For example plants that are not being use for medication that are not approved by FDA are now being used. This is through discovery.
Don’t listen to this guy, mechanical engineers did this for a reason, possibly because it made noise without it. Plus he’s never studied wind engineering because it’s not restraining anything, air goes to the least resistance.🤦♂️
CAP!!!!!! Increasing the amount of air flow DOES NOT COOL your house faster in all situations. There are lots of variables that need to be addressed in order to cool your home better faster and more energy efficient. Sending air over a cold coil faster gives it less time to cool down and dehumidify. SMH!!!
ITEMS I USED ON THIS VIDEO:
- BTMETER BT-100 Handheld Anemometer - amzn.to/3XzPrpC
- Self Tapping Screws Assorted Pack - amzn.to/3XxiQRo
- 5/16 Ratchet - amzn.to/44n6BJs
I have identical furnace. I put a barrier (scoop) to prevent the air flow going down to the deep dead space. It really works. I set the thermostat to 71F inside the house and it is cold now compare when it doesn’t have the scoop. 👍
Thank you for sharing your feedback Manny! I’m glad I could be of help! 👍🏽😊🙏🏽
the box is so the air does not not bounce back up into the coil, by blocking it off you increase static pressure . it will cause blower motor to burn out prematurely .hvac for 39 years as installer. absolutely never ever do, this, if you do this the customer will be replacing air handler in half the time as it should last.
Thank you for posting this.
It wouldn't make sense to have such a space otherwise....
Yes I was thinking, there is CLEARLY a reason for it and I'm glad I found the comment explaining it. Thanks
You are wrong. He didn’t block anything. He made a smooth transition for air. You have not been in the business 39 years or you would have recognized this.
@@michaelallen7230what is your point of reference for claiming he’s wrong?
@@JP-pq9xiNo reason other than that was the height they wanted the furnace at. That dead end plenum did cause turbulence and the poster certainly improved the situation.
It took me about 20 minutes to install it on my own. As long as you can lift it out the box and up into position you’re good. I did have to break the box to get it out as it was a snug fit. I followed the installation video on you tube which was a big help. I added this to support central air in my house that was struggling upstairs because of my house design. Lovely unit. Very quiet ruclips.net/user/postUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5T and looks sharp. Had it in a couple of weeks and so far so good. It’s cooling a bedroom about 25ft X 15 no problem at all.
I saw a video by a commercial air conditioning tech years ago. He said that most central air setups actually don't have enough return air capacity. My condo is two stories with the only return air vent on the first floor and the unit is on the second floor, so I added three more return air vents just under the AC unit on the second floor. The original unit which was about 50 years old, was still working, but now working a lot more efficiently. Last year, I had the whole system changed out and wow, this new unit really cools down the condo very efficiently! On triple digit days, I have the thermostat set for 80 degrees and it is really comfortable.
What company did you go with for the new unit?
Good fix. I did the same to my air duct system. I used duct butter to fill the small gaps or air duct tape.
I have long arms and with the deflector off, I could feel a round sheet metal valve used for air balancing. After toys, dirt, cat hair (no cat) but able to open the valve by pushing on it. The basement ceiling is finished and this is the only way in. I have almost twice the air flow now. Thank you kindly for the information in the video. The anemometer is a small DC generator. The faster it spins, the higher the voltage goes for the digital circuitry to display. Thanks much. Great info always worth watching.
Also learn about adjusting your air handler blower speed (you'll need the manual).
General Guidelines:
425 to 450 CFM per Ton (large number of supply ducts, long duct runs, cathedral ceilings, large open rooms)
400 CFM per Ton (STANDARD / default)
325 to 350 CFM per Ton (for high humidity areas like Florida, when the AC is sized too large, turning off and on too often and/or not dehumidifying well)
And make sure you ducts are not leaking in the attic due to poor or degraded connections. There are many reasons for a weak blower including malfunctions of the blower motor, dirty blower, dirty evaporator coil, dirty air filter, air filter too restrictive (over Merv 8), etc. etc. An inspection by an HVAC expert is advised. Maintenance on your AC system should be performed by an HVAC expert once a year when the AC is used in the summer only and twice a year when the AC is used year-round.
Note: It's best to consult with an HVAC expert, especially if you don't really know what you're doing. Remember, thoroughly research and learn first, then act. Otherwise, consult with an expert.
I agree with most of what you said but it was a so- called HVAC expert that set it up inefficiently in the first place. My experience in all areas of construction and life...
Thinking in the box! Well done!
Excellent video, and a labor of love. You can roll up some bat insulation and stuff it in those gaps.
Overall I liked the fix, but to label your RUclips "How to make your AC Blow stronger and faster and Colder..." is somewhat inaccurate sir. You fixed a VERY unusual designed AC unit which does not represent the vast majority.
The title is to get you to click, which you did. He appreciates your contribution to the paycheck.
@@SmoothGummi🤣🤣🤣
It's actually for sound attenuation.
Why do modern day hvac system have no flow? This is a modern day problem. Furnaces when I was a kid would blow you away with the air coming out of the vents. I can blow harder then modern day HVAC
Avoid stratification.
Get deflectors to have it shoot up into room. Cool air will then naturally fall and mix the air better.
Whew... thank you! I'm still dealing with a hot room in my 1639 sqft home...I know its been a hot year! I'm still after sealing my windows and checking for thermal spots to get to what you just showed us. Thanks for this idea. Have a good one.
check the temperature of your ceiling. in our hot room (furthest from the ac), the ceiling measured 95 degrees. i went up into the attic and found there was no insulation. i added insulation and it dropped the ceiling temp to 87. we live in south east florida. the room is still not as cool as the rest of the house (south facing). i wish it has it's own zone but the hvac techs said it wasn't necessary. we spent over $20k on new heat pump and ducting. it helped but still not as cool as the rest of the home. they wanted to charge over $8k to zone it. i should have zoned it instead of replacing the hvac.
@@TeamMadcrew yeah...and my hot room has plenty of insulation on it as well...all up to code...it's just weird to me how I keep hearing about this...one room is either too hot or freezing cold in a home 🤦🏿♂️🤦🏿♂️
@@TeamMadcrew Wait, you're supposed to have insulation in your attic? My house doesn't. It was built in the 40s.
@@TeamMadcrew thats a perfect use for a ductless single room mini split. $5k or less.
u gotta take readings all the way across and get an average. cant just use one spot. i know for gas u gotta be up at least 16 " off the ground. check static pressure
Thank you.
50% improvement is pretty good.
Easiest way to close the edges is spray foam, then cover with plastic wrap and shape into a scoop. After it cures you can remove the plastic wrap or leave it there.
Try putting a garbage bag under the baffle and fill it with spray foam. If it needs to be removed the foam won't be stuck to the inside of the cavity.
Great idea...thx
lol All that had to be done is two 1" x 2s" Screw them on both sides at a slight downward angle to the duct going out. Then just cut the sheet metal in a rectangle using the 1 x 2s to hold it from falling to the bottom of the void. Not rocket science. Thenyou can put a little caulk along the edges if you want it air tight....
Possibly use expanded foam on ends.
Use fiberglass netting and HVAC mastic to fill the voids at each end.
Eliminating areas in your duct work that will create turbulence. 👍
BIG THANKS!!! Saved me $$$$$ GREAT EXPLANATION DEF WORTH WATCHING N SAVING TIME N $$$$ KEEP UP THE GOOD WORK!!! 😊❤
I have one or two rooms that don't get much air flow but not the whole house. I have had experts look at it and they don't seem to know what to do about it. Do you know why this is and what can be done to fix it?
How big are your "cold air returns?" If you have too big of returns or one of them is very close to the furnace - you're sucking in too much air volume to to equalize the pressure and have proper output / flow through the entire system.
I have the same issue with 2 rooms. One of the rooms didn't start having this problem until after a tree fell, and everything was repaired
Hi from Pakistan, great channel
Hello! Thank you! 🙏🏽😊
@@FixThisHouse Another thing that helps big time is return duct design. each floor should have 2 large louvered return ducts at floor and ceiling level. You open or close one of them depending on season. open top in summer to suck heat from ceiling and open lower in winter to suck cold off floor. They installed central in my parents house with return ducts in first floor floor only and upstairs temp was 50*F hotter than down with A/C on until I cut the walls open and added return duct upstairs. Now the A/C cycles when the temp reaches the T-Stat and stays off for hours, before it ran 24/7 non stop.
Hi thanks for the info my home. Is a high ceiling house before my warranty ended they replace the motor and it’s located in the roof but I have very little flow how can I get more flow what motor do I need I’m willing to to bug a stronger motor
Cannot say without evaluating your system, if its an ECM motor they may have installed the motor on the wrong speed tap.
if a box fan or something could be placed in there somehow to would rilly turbocharge the air flow
Thanks 😊
What's the difference converting it to cfm's
Changing design seems sketchy. Ensuring a frame coils are properly cleaned seems better.
This would increase static pressure significantly causing the unit to work much harder. Do not do this. This wasn't a design oversight, it was meant to be this way.
I had dirty filters that I replaced works better
OK
Last time my air was broken and we went to a Hotel
Is that 22 inches of dead space, below ground…? I’m not sure I’ve seen a system like that.
Mine is in my attic, which suck
Very good!!
Do not use Pleated Filters. My new AC System was installed this year and the Company who installed here in Virginia has been in the AC business for 40 years said to always use Flanders EZ Flow Fiberglass Filters and change them every 30 days. Date them with a fine marker on the side when you install them and always pay attention to the direction of the arrow. The arrow always goes up. Pleated AC Filters restrict Air Flow in your system , put extra strain on you blower motor and increases your electric bill. This from Master AC Technicians .
So I'm guessing you did all this it made zero difference then you changed the fan speed on the air handler.
Way to shit on him when he’s trying to be helpful.
No one uses a ratchet and socket to drive sheet metal screws
🤔
Maintenance men at my apartment complex do, and they are licensed HVAC techs.
Except everyone that does.
You just saw that guy do it.
Anyone with half a brain doesn't use a screw gun on sheet metal screws that have already been cut into a hole, it just strips the hole out then you have screws falling out. A ratchet or nut driver is the correct tool for this job.
I actually have the opposite problem , air flow is so strong it can get really loud , anyone have recommendations?
thanks in advance !
Duct might be too small. Blower speed too high? Call a local hvac expert
@@Hvacnc Thanks!
My ac got broken, and i glued back and its normal now...
Dude if you actually clean the filters, the airflow will be much higher even more than with your modification
That looked like a lot of link or insulation in there.
And then it reduce even smaller with a round to large exit
Why are you bypassing that coil/condenser?
“The 6 Million-Dollar Blower”
Please do not do what he is saying! I am an ac tech with 30 years experience and what he is doing will make things worse not better. If he wants better air flow he needs to have his system checked by a professional. That "void" he is filling is to help pressurize the duct work evenly.
How did you know that things worse not better. It works on my mine. Money saver…
@@mannylazaro277 yeah, ignore the professional
That looks cheesy but it’ll work
Say cheese
That original install is sketchy.
I appreciate many of your videos but your logic in this one is flawed and amateur. You are eliminating a deliberate feature in the furnace without researching what it was for. If its there, there's probably a reason.
no. i've spent a lot of money correcting poorly installed hvac system. i even told the new hvac expert that i wanted the hottest room in the house the same temp as the rest of the house. paid over $20k and still not correctly balanced. he wants more $$$ to do what i want him to do. hvac techs are not experts, they are just techs that install equipment. hvac engineer is what i should have consulted.
Oil and gas company watching you 👁👄👁 our bussiness is going down 😢
😂😅😊
You need dampers in your ducts to fix this issue. What you did, will reduce the life of blower as the air gets backed into to blower. There is a reason that hole is there. Its by design.
Putting vents on the floor is an extremely bad design in homes. A lot of vehicles have the same bad design. Vents should be placed up high and in the middle so the cold air falls down on you.
Then that is a bad design for heating season as heat rises.
You want to keep your vents inside the building envelope. If you duct in the unconditioned space like an attic, you pick up additional latent heat and decrease your cooling. It's also the same for the heating season. Cutting into possible strucutural wall framing causes even more issues, therefore that's why floor registers are often used.
That's funny, because faster moving air is HOTTER than slower moving air. So, this is counter to the laws of physics. Reducing the speed of the air allows the air temp to be lower and more consistent.
like button?...subscribe??....explain please //////need to hear it 1 more time to get to a million times
I’ve *never* seen a pit design like that. Maybe it’s a regional thing? It’s sure not going to help people in areas that stick their air handlers in the attic.
Yeah..and mines is in the attic...good point
Please don’t do this… this guy is not an HVAC technician…. Smh 🤦🏻♂️
Do not…. I repeat… DO NOT close off room vents to “make other rooms stronger” it doesn’t work like that and it actually ruins your system.
The only way you can truly fix you’re airflow problem is to get a certified HVAC technician to see if you’re duct system is made correctly for your system and if you’re system is even the right size for your house.
You can discover things with yourself to I’m prove things better that the certified HVAC technician doesn’t know. For example plants that are not being use for medication that are not approved by FDA are now being used. This is through discovery.
Don’t listen to this guy, mechanical engineers did this for a reason, possibly because it made noise without it. Plus he’s never studied wind engineering because it’s not restraining anything, air goes to the least resistance.🤦♂️
CAP!!!!!! Increasing the amount of air flow DOES NOT COOL your house faster in all situations. There are lots of variables that need to be addressed in order to cool your home better faster and more energy efficient. Sending air over a cold coil faster gives it less time to cool down and dehumidify. SMH!!!
"A lot more better" not good English. You mean a lot better.
Oh I gotta see this
You and your side job ac guy hahahahahahahha
This was an existed supply vent when the house was originally built. Side ac guy just put the new unit 👍🏽😉