What an age we live in! Not only can I screw directly into metal without drilling a guide hole, but I can find a nice feller on the internet who will tell me how to do it! Thank you!
I have put in a lot of sheet metal screws. But I don't do it everyday. Your video reminded me of what you forget no matter how many you have done a couple years ago. The importance of clamping in particular. I am installing a 5' continuos hinge. The walking reminded me also to start in the center work to outer edge. Very good.
Chorus with the fans: Great video, Frank! No fluff, not a second lost on out-of-topic, personal opinions or anecdotes. Covering all the common mistakes is what every DIY videos should be about.
I'm in metal working, and you would be surprised how many people don't know what a self tapping screw is. So no matter how simple this video maybe I assure you someone is watching and learning from this. So thank you sir.
Thanks, Frank. I learned a lot. Also, due to the raw thrill of your production, I experienced a massive heart blowout. My people will be talking to your people.
Lol clicked and already know most but enjoyed watching your dry humor. Excellent and throughly explained. These are videos should be made. Wasn’t board at all, LOVED IT.
I'm an apprentice sheet metal with almost no prior experience to speak of. Yesterday, a month into working for this construction firm we were on site installing flashings for door frames of the building and for the life of me I could not get the screw thru the metal! I did a few but after a while they kept dancing away and just not going thru. My boss was watching(he's seen me efficiently use a drill before and was kinda flabbergasted at my lack of skill) and the superintendent of the site. It was humiliating knowing they were watching me mess up over and over along with the other trade workers(land scapers, plumbers, etc) My boss made it look effortless. Which didn't help much after being seen fail too many times at what's supposed to be a simple task.Thank u so much for posting this I need the help and pointers asap.
Many thanks for your comment. First of all, Raul, I can certainly sympathize with your situation. Some of the problems I’ve had on the jobsite are still too embarrassing to publish. Once I just couldn’t get a nail to drive straight with my new hammer, only to find out that this new hammer’s face was ground crooked and my co-workers had the same results when they tried to drive a nail with the same hammer. I returned it and bought a different brand. My first guess is that your problem is often caused, even sometimes by experienced workers, when the drill is accidentally switched into reverse. If that is not the case, then, sometimes you just get a bad batch of dull of screws. But, sounds like your boss had good luck with the same screws. If neither of these issues solve it, you may just need to practice a whole lot on some sample pieces of metal. There is a technique, a feel, and practice does help a lot. First, try starting the screw at slower rpm and press firmly until the little drill bit on the tip begins to start a little cutting, a little indent, so that it has something to keep the screw centered. (be sure you have a driver bit, usually a Philips bit, that really fits securely in your screw head, so it doesn’t wobble. That can be a major problem.) Second, now you can increase the rpm as you continue to push a little harder as the screw drills the hole and it can screw into the hole. Hopefully they didn’t just give you, the new guy, a batch of bad screws, or switch your gun into reverse when you weren’t looking, (kinda like telling you to go get a “board stretcher”) to give them some entertainment on an otherwise mundane jobsite. More commonly, it is definitely a skill that can best be learned and honed by practice and time. I hope this helps. Thanks for your question!
Ya know, this is exactly what I needed. Right down to the very fundamental basics without jumping ahead assuming the viewer has any clue about any preliminaries. I don't know if you'll see this after 7 years but I really appreciated your thorough, accessible, digestible (short and not overwhelming) video. I found it very exciting to be able to follow it and then feel I could actually do what you demonstrated. Thanks!
I teach apprentice electricians basic hand and power tool skills plus how to fix and secure different items to different surfaces. I've used your video many times now - it is simple, to the point and gives me just enough time to prepare their next workshop activity. Thanks!
OMG thank you. I was wondering why I could not screw in the self-tapping screws I was sold at the auto parts store for installing my license plate. I made up several new words during the frustration.
I have put in a lot of sheet metal screws. But I don't do it everyday. (Thanks for reminding me to start slow) Your video reminded me of what you forget no matter how many you have done a couple years ago. The importance of clamping in particular. I am installing a 5' continuos hinge. The walking of screw reminded me also to start in the center work to outer edge. Very good.
Sir, thank you for this video, not only did you clearly explain to me the information I needed but I felt really good about it... what a great teacher!
Ohhh thank you so much. You answered my questions and those mistakes you mentioned I did most of them and didn’t know what to make it right. Your VDO is very helpful esp for a woman like me trying to do house project by my own.
Thank you so much! I'm DIY-ing in an old house, and it's amazing how one can start out thinking one is building in a bookshelf and end up having to learn to repair, fabricate, and install HVAC ducting. At least now I know how to join the parts!
Well thought out and well presented video - I like the quiet humour (that's humor). Shows all the main things that can go wrong for first-time screwers and how to avoid them. Thanks Frank.
Thanks Nick for your appreciation! Glad we could put a smile to your face and help you out as well. Don't hesitate to let us know if we can be of any further help.
Haha, I love this man. My old man was a salesman, and Im a muso so I don't have any hands on experience with working with tools, so from me, thanks for teaching the basics (even though I should probably know better by now). A.
thank you for making this video! I have you used these screws to modify my jeep with for fender flares with no scratches! love the video thanks for the help
Thank you for helping all of us, or even just reassuring some of us that we r doing it right....and if a know it all pokes fun, oh well, they r just leaving someone else alone.... lol. Don’t stop making videos !! I appreciate the knowledge !!
Thank you! Useful video... If you ever consider redoing this video, you might want to show the difference between a self-tapping vs self-drilling sheet metal screw, and the difference between how they are installed.
Thanks for the video, this was the way that I figured self tapping screws worked but I wasnt 100 percent if i didnt need to drill a guide hole, so thanks for the clarification!
Great video, and great instructor. Question, isn't the sheet metal screw you demonstrate, actually, or more technically a "self-drilling screw"? The screw used in your video produces it's own hole, without pre-drilling. You called it a "self-tapping screw", but don't self tapping screws require a pre-drilled hole, guide hole or pilot hole? Minor discrepancy, just curious. Thank you for posting your video.
Good catch! Self-tappers don’t necessarily have a drill point, so self-tappers aren’t always self-drillers. And self-drillers are self-tappers. But you’re right, it is a very common mistake. So common in fact, that the terms are often, in our experience, interchangeable. Thanks again.
I want to hang some wood shelves on the studs of my metal carport. The studs are made out of square aluminum tubes. Most of the sheet metal siding of this carport was hung on these studs with self-tapping coarse threaded screws. Can I use them to attach the wooden shelf brackets for my shelves or should I pre-drill, through both sides of the stud, and use long bolts with nuts?
That’s a great question, but I’m afraid I can’t really give you a definitive answer since there are so many unknown (to me)variables. First of all, it depends on how heavy a load these shelves will be carrying and how deep/wide the shelves are. It also depends on the type of bracket you are going to use. If it will be for lightweight stuff, like fishing poles, or medium weight stuff like small cans of paint , the self-tapping screws should work fine. However, obviously, if you plan on storing heavy toolboxes or your massive (and I’m sure, interesting and exciting) boat anchor collection, then I would definitely recommend bolting through the square aluminum tubes as you mentioned. So many of these type decisions are decided by the carpenter/installer and (in my humble opinion) it’s always safest to overbuild it so that you can sleep soundly for years to come (not wondering about that job you did so many years ago.) Thanks for the great question, and I’m sorry I can’t give you a hard answer.
@@FlexAbilityConcepts Thanks! That's food for thought and helpful! The weight the shelf would bear probably falls into the "medium" category, (pick, shovels, heavy bicycle racks) and it'd be an 18" deep shelf which would span 9 feet (the width of the carport). And it'd only be supported on each end (nothing in between) by the metal studs and shelf brackets. Because of the long time it took me to drill a test hole in those tubular 3x3 studs, I went back and checked them with a magnet and they ARE magnetic, so I guess that means their steel, not aluminum? Does that changes anything?
What do you do if you accidentally screw it too tight in the track where’s it spinning and compromised, and but that’s the exact location i need it , I can’t move it any over
Hi @justinhargrave252. Great question! Frank is currently out of the office. We will get an answer to you as soon as he is back. Thanks again for the comment!
Justin, In a typical wall, it may not really matter much whether the screw is really ‘biting” since it will still be holding the metal stud in its location. If you feel strongly that it needs to be a tighter connection, you can find a step larger gage screw to install in the same hole, but these may not have as flat of a head on the surface. Another option would be to use a pop-rivet to secure this particular joint. If you use a steel pop-rivet it will certainly be strong enough to do the job. But usually, while it is optimal to stop the screw before it “strips out”, it usually is not that devastatingly important. If the screw is installed, the stud, or whatever you’re affixing, will not come out! Hope this helps! Frank
So I’m working on a project and it involves a lot of things I’ve never used. It was kind of a spontaneous decision. And I came upon this video because i couldn’t get my screws in and let me just say I’m that person who was making the obvious mistake of having it in reverse so thank you for this.
Nice vide, can use those screws in a metal frame like a cargo trailer frame. I am trying to ground a wire, and totally missed up today. I drilled a hole into the frame, and was trying to drill a bolt through with a washer it didn't work. don't know what I am doing wrong. I just want to ground a wire to a metal frame is all.
Hi Charles, From what I have seen, these self-tapping/self-drilling screws will work well to attach your ground wire to the trailer frame. Of course you’ll want to make sure the trailer frame is clean, for good contact, before you install the ground. Also, if the trailer frame is very thick, you will need to drill a pilot hole, a little smaller in diameter, for the screw so it can actually go through the frame. Thanks for the comment, and I hope all works well!
Hi, very helpful, but can you explain something about speed and tork as your doing this. That is an important part that can make you either successful or not when drilling into metal
Hi and many thanks for your comment! When installing these self-drilling/self-tapping screws, you are typically (almost exclusively) installing them into sheet metal. As such, your most important factor will be the speed, along with a moderate amount of pressure to make sure the drill bit on the screw is actually cutting, not just spinning on the sheet metal and overheating. You won’t want or need a lot of torque from the drlll, as that would easily cause the screw to strip out the sheet metal when it is fully seated, creating a looser connection. With less torque from the drill, it makes it easier to stop when the screw head hits the face of the sheet metal, and make that “perfect” connection. Hope this helps!
Got some garage lights that came with self tapping screws but then also included the plastic sleeves for installing in sheetrock without a stud so am confused if should try drilling with the sleeve on screw or just traditionally drill and screw sleeve in and then screw the screw into the sleeve
Hello, Usually I would try to find any joists that cross over where you will be installing the lights and anchor into the joists using screws that are long enough. Next, if you are running the lights parallel to the joists, and you are securing into the sheetrock only, I would drill a small pilot hole, then screw the plastic anchors/sleeve into the hole, place the light fixture over the anchor/sleeve and screw the screw into the plastic anchor/sleeve. I’m assuming the anchors and screws are sized adequately to support the light fixture you purchased from them. Hope you have a bright and blessed Christmas time!
@@FlexAbilityConcepts I was poking fun at the instructional video. But I did use this video drilling into a metal stud at my work. Used a larger 21/2” and it worked like a charm. Thanks for the awesome video bough
Hi there @bigbrakeman1. Good catch! Self-tappers don’t necessarily have a drill point, so self-tappers aren’t always self-drillers. And self-drillers are self-tappers. But you’re right, it is a very common mistake. So common in fact, that the terms are often, in our experience, interchangeable. Thanks again.
Hi Frank, I searched countersinking screws and got your video. Do you have a video explaining how to countersinking without a drill press into sheet metal? Is there such a thing?
Hi Mahmood, thanks for the question. Sorry, but we don’t have a video explaining how to countersink a hole in sheet metal. I typically use a countersink bit in a hand-held drill for that. But since our actual focus is on metal stud framing and our Flex-Ability Concepts products, and we never have a application where countersinking the screws in metal studs is helpful, we just haven’t made such a video. Maybe we should just for fun! Hope you are able to find what you are looking for.
What is the thickest metal you can use these screws on? I need to secure something on a metal Pope that has 5mm walls. Do you think that would be too much resistance for this product? Thanks
Many thanks for your question. Five mm is too thick for the type of self-drilling or self-tapping screw that I used in the video. The drill bit tip is too short to drill all the way through the five mm before the threads begin to catch. These little screws are made for sheet metal, more like .5 mm to 1.5 mm, or 20 to 16 ga. They do make a self-drilling screw with a long drill bit tip, (before the threads start on the shaft) that is longer to drill through thicker metal, possibly through your 5 mm metal. Just call your local fastener supplier, (probably not just a big box store to get these specialty screws) and they should be able to get just the right screw for your application. Since these are pretty beefy, they will probably have a hex head on them. Hope this helps!
Good video. I like the dry humour.... but as a few others have already suggested already; I think in some contexts/situation - a smaller diameter pilot hole reference is needed if the secondary metal is considerably **thicker** than the primary metal;
Yes, if the secondary metal is “considerably” thicker, it does create its own set of potential problems. First of all, I’d definitely recommend clamping the two layers together so that when it quickly drills through the first layer, it doesn’t start threading into it and lift it up and away from the second, thicker layer, which is going to take some more time to drill through. If the second layer is really, really thick, you’ll probably want to drill a pilot hole with a drill bit, the same size as the drill point on the screw and then run the self-tapping screw through both of them. If the second layer is too thick or too hard for the self-tapping screw to successfully cut threads into, you’ll probably want to go ahead and tap some threads with a tap and install a screw with “machine” threads, such as a 8-24 or 10-24, etc. But that is much slower! That’s why these self-tapping screws come in so handy for rapid constructions assemblies! Thank you for your comment and please don't hesitate to let us know if we can be of any further assistance.
Thanks for you detailed reply. I'm just beginning a small fencing project; and two of the new thin sheet metal post extrusions need to be attached to some existing 4mm thick square section gate posts. Oh.. and one panel edge will be into masonry plugs as well; which is probably drifting off into another topic.
This is a comment that was posted by Tera GX. We apologize for deleting it by mistake so are reposting the original question with an answer from us. Comment: "I used these to modify my desk and it was great solution for a while. But overtime the holes have become stripped. It's a hollow column so there is no "back side" for me to work with. Are there any good ways I can reinforce or improve a hole these made, while only accessing the hole from one side?" Answer: If you are using these self-tapping screws to fasten two layers of sheet metal together, and the layers are stripped out, I would recommend finding a larger diameter sheet metal screw and install it into this same hole. It doesn’t even need to be a self-tapping screw since the pilot hole is already made, but if it is a larger screw it will grab the sides of the hole and hold it secure.
Yes, I’m not particularly familiar with the DeWalt model numbers, but any good 2500 rpm screwgun will be excellent for installing these sheet metal screws.
Hi Mike, The screws discussed in this video are designed to be used in sheet metal applications. If you want to “tap” threads into cast iron, these screws will definitely not do the job. You will need to use a “tap” which will cut these threads into the hard, somewhat brittle, cast iron. And before you can tap those threads, you’ll need to drill the proper hole with a drill bit, not a screw. Each size tap has a specific drill size to get the proper amount of “meat” left in the hole to cut proper threads. It is a more time-consuming job, but it is the best way to tap threads into cast iron without cracking it or stripping out the hole. I’ll bet you can find a youtube video that shows you the steps and method on how to do this. It’s just not in our area since we’re more in the metal stud framing business and they don’t normally make cast iron studs. Hope this helps Mike and thank you for the question!
@@FlexAbilityConcepts Hi Frank. How do I search for exactly that screw? I tried "Philips #2 self-tapping sheet metal screws" but don't find something with that exact wording.
I need to fasten some heavier stuff to the sides of my van. The sheet metal is a bit thicker, (as I suppose a man like you probably know). What way would you recommend me doing it? I need to hang stuff that are 10-15 pounds in weight. I can't use a bolt and a nut cause I don't have enough space, and this self tapping screw looks a bit flimsy.. Is there some other way to do it? And please, oh please don't say rivets cause I don't have a rivet gun nor have I've been using one in my life.... Thank you.
Hi Mark, While these screws do look rather lightweight or flimsy, they are actually rated pretty high in pull-out and shear strength, depending on the metal you are screwing into. If your metal is too thin, the screw connection will not be as strong. When you are working with thicker sheet metal and need more strength, they make these self-drilling screws in larger diameter screws. Also, as you pair up the screws the stability of the connection will increase greatly. So, there, I was able to hopefully answer your question and I didn’t even mention rivets,--Oops, I just did! Hope this helps, Frank
Hi Lydia, it all depends on the thickness or gauge of the pipe you’re trying to install the screw in. If it is any thicker than 16 gauge or about 1/16 of an inch I would recommend drilling a pilot hole through the pipes first and then you can install the screws into the pilot hole. Also pipes are a little tricky as the drill point of the screw will try and run off the side of the curve of the pipe. It may be easiest to use a center punch to put a little ding in the pipe so the drill point will stay where you want it and begin drilling the hole. I hope this helps for your particular situation.
Good question. These screws are designed for use with sheet metal. A T-post is not only much thicker, but as you mentioned, hardened. They make self -drilling screws for thicker steel, but if the steel is hardened, they may or may not work. Thanks for the great question!
Self drilling not self tapping. All screws do self tap but some drill the hole ss well hence the self drilling whereas others need a pilot hole done before using a drill bit- these are self tapping
Good catch! Self-tappers don’t necessarily have a drill point, so self-tappers aren’t always self-drillers. And self-drillers are self-tappers. But you’re right, it is a very common mistake. So common in fact, that the terms are often, in our experience, interchangeable. Thanks again
What an age we live in! Not only can I screw directly into metal without drilling a guide hole, but I can find a nice feller on the internet who will tell me how to do it! Thank you!
it's our pleasure! Thanks for appreciating and I'm glad we could be of help!
And now we have parents who cut their boys' penises off! What an age!
Really is amazing Tim!
Yeah, but these things have been around for at least 50 years. I used the back in the mid-70s to attach paneling to the inside of a step van.
No self-deprecation required. This is a very helpful video, including all the mistakes you can make if not doing it right.
Thanks for your kind words. Glad it was helpful.
Yup, if I wasn't in the middle of making a stupid mistake I wouldn't have been looking for this video😜
I have put in a lot of sheet metal screws. But I don't do it everyday. Your video reminded me of what you forget no matter how many you have done a couple years ago. The importance of clamping in particular. I am installing a 5' continuos hinge. The walking reminded me also to start in the center work to outer edge. Very good.
Chorus with the fans: Great video, Frank! No fluff, not a second lost on out-of-topic, personal opinions or anecdotes.
Covering all the common mistakes is what every DIY videos should be about.
Thank you for the kind words! Glad you enjoyed the video.
I'm in metal working, and you would be surprised how many people don't know what a self tapping screw is. So no matter how simple this video maybe I assure you someone is watching and learning from this. So thank you sir.
Christopher, our goal is to be able to help all that might not know. So thank you for the kind words!
Thanks, Frank. I learned a lot. Also, due to the raw thrill of your production, I experienced a massive heart blowout. My people will be talking to your people.
Thank you for the kind remarks Steve! Please let us know how we can be of assistance.
Lol clicked and already know most but enjoyed watching your dry humor. Excellent and throughly explained. These are videos should be made. Wasn’t board at all, LOVED IT.
Jason, thank you. Glad you enjoyed it!
I'm an apprentice sheet metal with almost no prior experience to speak of. Yesterday, a month into working for this construction firm we were on site installing flashings for door frames of the building and for the life of me I could not get the screw thru the metal! I did a few but after a while they kept dancing away and just not going thru. My boss was watching(he's seen me efficiently use a drill before and was kinda flabbergasted at my lack of skill) and the superintendent of the site. It was humiliating knowing they were watching me mess up over and over along with the other trade workers(land scapers, plumbers, etc) My boss made it look effortless. Which didn't help much after being seen fail too many times at what's supposed to be a simple task.Thank u so much for posting this I need the help and pointers asap.
Many thanks for your comment. First of all, Raul, I can certainly sympathize with your situation. Some of the problems I’ve had on the jobsite are still too embarrassing to publish. Once I just couldn’t get a nail to drive straight with my new hammer, only to find out that this new hammer’s face was ground crooked and my co-workers had the same results when they tried to drive a nail with the same hammer. I returned it and bought a different brand.
My first guess is that your problem is often caused, even sometimes by experienced workers, when the drill is accidentally switched into reverse.
If that is not the case, then, sometimes you just get a bad batch of dull of screws.
But, sounds like your boss had good luck with the same screws.
If neither of these issues solve it, you may just need to practice a whole lot on some sample pieces of metal. There is a technique, a feel, and practice does help a lot.
First, try starting the screw at slower rpm and press firmly until the little drill bit on the tip begins to start a little cutting, a little indent, so that it has something to keep the screw centered.
(be sure you have a driver bit, usually a Philips bit, that really fits securely in your screw head, so it doesn’t wobble. That can be a major problem.)
Second, now you can increase the rpm as you continue to push a little harder as the screw drills the hole and it can screw into the hole.
Hopefully they didn’t just give you, the new guy, a batch of bad screws, or switch your gun into reverse when you weren’t looking, (kinda like telling you to go get a “board stretcher”) to give them some entertainment on an otherwise mundane jobsite.
More commonly, it is definitely a skill that can best be learned and honed by practice and time.
I hope this helps.
Thanks for your question!
Why were they watching you mess up when they are supposed to be teaching you, get out of there you'll learn nothing from these people
Ya know, this is exactly what I needed. Right down to the very fundamental basics without jumping ahead assuming the viewer has any clue about any preliminaries. I don't know if you'll see this after 7 years but I really appreciated your thorough, accessible, digestible (short and not overwhelming) video. I found it very exciting to be able to follow it and then feel I could actually do what you demonstrated. Thanks!
Thanks for the kind words! We are glad it helped!
I teach apprentice electricians basic hand and power tool skills plus how to fix and secure different items to different surfaces. I've used your video many times now - it is simple, to the point and gives me just enough time to prepare their next workshop activity. Thanks!
Anni, glad to hear it has helped you out! Manny thanks for the kind words.
Thank you for this. i knew these existed but never tried. i now have and it was perfect! i am a 70 yr old DIY female, continuing to do and learn.
Glad to hear it, good for you! These screws really can be a big time saver. Good luck on your next project!
OMG thank you. I was wondering why I could not screw in the self-tapping screws I was sold at the auto parts store for installing my license plate. I made up several new words during the frustration.
Laura, glad it helped!
I have put in a lot of sheet metal screws. But I don't do it everyday. (Thanks for reminding me to start slow) Your video reminded me of what you forget no matter how many you have done a couple years ago. The importance of clamping in particular. I am installing a 5' continuos hinge. The walking of screw reminded me also to start in the center work to outer edge. Very good.
Thanks for the kind words Perry! Glad it helped!
Sir, thank you for this video, not only did you clearly explain to me the information I needed but I felt really good about it... what a great teacher!
Thank you Drew for your kind words! Glad it was helpful!
Ohhh thank you so much. You answered my questions and those mistakes you mentioned I did most of them and didn’t know what to make it right. Your VDO is very helpful esp for a woman like me trying to do house project by my own.
NuJB R thanks for the kind words! Glad the VOD helped. Good luck on your projects!
I genuinely enjoyed this. Installing a window onto my garage and this helped out a lot.
Many thanks for the kind words, Shane. Glad it helped out!
Thank you so much! I'm DIY-ing in an old house, and it's amazing how one can start out thinking one is building in a bookshelf and end up having to learn to repair, fabricate, and install HVAC ducting. At least now I know how to join the parts!
Thanks for the kind words!
Nicely done--short and to the point. Very informative plus you seem like a genuine, nice guy!
We are glad you enjoyed the video. Thank you for the kind words!
Very helpful! Quick, to the point, good humor and informative. Thanks so much for posting!
Thank you for your kind words! We are glad that the video was helpful and that you enjoyed it.
Thanks for this straightforward video. Very helpful, and humorous.
David, many thanks for your kind words. We are glad it helped!
Knew nothing about self tapping screws, now I feel like I know everything there is to know. I'm off to give it a go. Thanks heaps.
Thanks for the kind words and glad it helped!
Not a worthless video at all for those of us using this type of screw for the first time. Thanks!
Very helpful! Watched another video about drilling and tapping but these look magic! Off to the hardware store for some of these self tapping screws
Thank you for this video, and your time, we are not all professionals...
Thank you for this information. It helps me to understand the specific usage of the tapping screws. Good job !
we're glad that it helped!
Thanks I needed this to screw into my car door for a speaker bracket. Never used this type of screw before.
Orion, glad that it was of assistance!
Well thought out and well presented video - I like the quiet humour (that's humor). Shows all the main things that can go wrong for first-time screwers and how to avoid them. Thanks Frank.
Thanks Nick for your appreciation! Glad we could put a smile to your face and help you out as well. Don't hesitate to let us know if we can be of any further help.
Helpful. My wife had shop and would normally know but my school didn’t have it so I’m learning everything form square one!
Thanks for the comment. Glad it was of help!
Thanks, I've been struggling with this and you answered my question question. I was using the wrong drill bit.
Deb, glad it helped!
basic and straight to the point . Great video.
Thank you for the kind words!
This was really well explained and shown! Perfect for budding engineers
Thanks Matty!
Exactly what I came here to learn. Bravo
Glad it helped, James! Best of luck!
Haha, I love this man. My old man was a salesman, and Im a muso so I don't have any hands on experience with working with tools, so from me, thanks for teaching the basics (even though I should probably know better by now).
A.
thank you for making this video! I have you used these screws to modify my jeep with for fender flares with no scratches! love the video thanks for the help
Thank you for the kind words Shannon. We are glad it helped!
Hey, this video is great! I'm new to this and this is all exactly what I needed to know! Thank you!
Thank you for the kind comment, hope everything worked out for you!
Thank you for helping all of us, or even just reassuring some of us that we r doing it right....and if a know it all pokes fun, oh well, they r just leaving someone else alone.... lol. Don’t stop making videos !! I appreciate the knowledge !!
Many thanks for your kind words!
Nice job on the video! Good tips even for an old DIY kind of guy! Thank you!!!
Thank you for the kind words!
I dont want to poke holes in this video so I wont! Great video, you really tapped into this topic.
I appreciate the feed back, Kow Abundant!
You're a good teacher!
Thank you for the kind words!
Thank you! Useful video... If you ever consider redoing this video, you might want to show the difference between a self-tapping vs self-drilling sheet metal screw, and the difference between how they are installed.
I love that it's so simple. Thanks...
Thank you for the kind words!
I found this very useful, but especially liked your self deprecating humor!
Thanks!
This was very Helpful! Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words. Glad it helped!
Just what I needed to see for my project coming up. Thank you! :)
Glad it was helpful! Good luck on your project!
It's our pleasure! Feel free to let us know how your project goes!
This was such a great, informative video! Thank you!
Hi Sary!
Thanks for your kind comment! Glad it helped!
I like your humor and that you’re willing to show the *wrong way first!
Helpful and funny in a Dad-Joke kind of way. Thanks for the help!
Many thanks for the kind words. Glad it helped out!
Thank You=--Very Clear Instructions!
Peter, glad it helped!
You are super friendly :) and hell of a instructor
Many thanks for your kind comments! All our best for your next project.
Very useful to learn about self tapping screws.
Thanks Alex for your kind comment. Glad it was helpful.
Thank You Frank! You're OKAY Dude!
Thanks for the kind words!
very informative, and a pleasure to watch
Thank you Ian! Glad it helped and that you enjoyed!
Thanks for the video, this was the way that I figured self tapping screws worked but I wasnt 100 percent if i didnt need to drill a guide hole, so thanks for the clarification!
Glad it helped!
You are welcome! So glad we could help!
great video, i am your 1000th subscriber!
Thanks for the kind words! And congrats! We are happy to have you as part of our community. :)
Great video, and great instructor. Question, isn't the sheet metal screw you demonstrate, actually, or more technically a "self-drilling screw"?
The screw used in your video produces it's own hole, without pre-drilling. You called it a "self-tapping screw", but don't self tapping screws require a pre-drilled hole, guide hole or pilot hole?
Minor discrepancy, just curious. Thank you for posting your video.
Good catch! Self-tappers don’t necessarily have a drill point, so self-tappers aren’t always self-drillers. And self-drillers are self-tappers. But you’re right, it is a very common mistake. So common in fact, that the terms are often, in our experience, interchangeable. Thanks again.
I want to hang some wood shelves on the studs of my metal carport. The studs are made out of square aluminum tubes. Most of the sheet metal siding of this carport was hung on these studs with self-tapping coarse threaded screws. Can I use them to attach the wooden shelf brackets for my shelves or should I pre-drill, through both sides of the stud, and use long bolts with nuts?
That’s a great question, but I’m afraid I can’t really give you a definitive answer since there are so many unknown (to me)variables. First of all, it depends on how heavy a load these shelves will be carrying and how deep/wide the shelves are. It also depends on the type of bracket you are going to use. If it will be for lightweight stuff, like fishing poles, or medium weight stuff like small cans of paint , the self-tapping screws should work fine. However, obviously, if you plan on storing heavy toolboxes or your massive (and I’m sure, interesting and exciting) boat anchor collection, then I would definitely recommend bolting through the square aluminum tubes as you mentioned. So many of these type decisions are decided by the carpenter/installer and (in my humble opinion) it’s always safest to overbuild it so that you can sleep soundly for years to come (not wondering about that job you did so many years ago.)
Thanks for the great question, and I’m sorry I can’t give you a hard answer.
@@FlexAbilityConcepts Thanks! That's food for thought and helpful! The weight the shelf would bear probably falls into the "medium" category, (pick, shovels, heavy bicycle racks) and it'd be an 18" deep shelf which would span 9 feet (the width of the carport). And it'd only be supported on each end (nothing in between) by the metal studs and shelf brackets. Because of the long time it took me to drill a test hole in those tubular 3x3 studs, I went back and checked them with a magnet and they ARE magnetic, so I guess that means their steel, not aluminum? Does that changes anything?
What do you do if you accidentally screw it too tight in the track where’s it spinning and compromised, and but that’s the exact location i need it , I can’t move it any over
Hi @justinhargrave252. Great question! Frank is currently out of the office. We will get an answer to you as soon as he is back. Thanks again for the comment!
Justin, In a typical wall, it may not really matter much whether the screw is really ‘biting” since it will still be holding the metal stud in its location.
If you feel strongly that it needs to be a tighter connection, you can find a step larger gage screw to install in the same hole, but these may not have as flat of a head on the surface.
Another option would be to use a pop-rivet to secure this particular joint. If you use a steel pop-rivet it will certainly be strong enough to do the job. But usually, while it is optimal to stop the screw before it “strips out”, it usually is not that devastatingly important. If the screw is installed, the stud, or whatever you’re affixing, will not come out!
Hope this helps! Frank
So THATS what that “screwy” tip is for! I honestly never knew that.
It's such a simple yet effective design to alter the screw head as a bit!
So I’m working on a project and it involves a lot of things I’ve never used. It was kind of a spontaneous decision.
And I came upon this video because i couldn’t get my screws in and let me just say I’m that person who was making the obvious mistake of having it in reverse so thank you for this.
Hi Ayasia, don’t feel bad, it can happen to the best of us! Glad our video helped!
Super cool, helpful video. The #2 Philips makes a huge difference
Nice vide, can use those screws in a metal frame like a cargo trailer frame. I am trying to ground a wire, and totally missed up today. I drilled a hole into the frame, and was trying to drill a bolt through with a washer it didn't work. don't know what I am doing wrong. I just want to ground a wire to a metal frame is all.
Hi Charles, From what I have seen, these self-tapping/self-drilling screws will work well to attach your ground wire to the trailer frame. Of course you’ll want to make sure the trailer frame is clean, for good contact, before you install the ground. Also, if the trailer frame is very thick, you will need to drill a pilot hole, a little smaller in diameter, for the screw so it can actually go through the frame. Thanks for the comment, and I hope all works well!
@@FlexAbilityConcepts Awesome thank you very much.
Hi, very helpful, but can you explain something about speed and tork as your doing this. That is an important part that can make you either successful or not when drilling into metal
Hi and many thanks for your comment! When installing these self-drilling/self-tapping screws, you are typically (almost exclusively) installing them into sheet metal. As such, your most important factor will be the speed, along with a moderate amount of pressure to make sure the drill bit on the screw is actually cutting, not just spinning on the sheet metal and overheating. You won’t want or need a lot of torque from the drlll, as that would easily cause the screw to strip out the sheet metal when it is fully seated, creating a looser connection. With less torque from the drill, it makes it easier to stop when the screw head hits the face of the sheet metal, and make that “perfect” connection.
Hope this helps!
Got some garage lights that came with self tapping screws but then also included the plastic sleeves for installing in sheetrock without a stud so am confused if should try drilling with the sleeve on screw or just traditionally drill and screw sleeve in and then screw the screw into the sleeve
Hello, Usually I would try to find any joists that cross over where you will be installing the lights and anchor into the joists using screws that are long enough. Next, if you are running the lights parallel to the joists, and you are securing into the sheetrock only, I would drill a small pilot hole, then screw the plastic anchors/sleeve into the hole, place the light fixture over the anchor/sleeve and screw the screw into the plastic anchor/sleeve. I’m assuming the anchors and screws are sized adequately to support the light fixture you purchased from them. Hope you have a bright and blessed Christmas time!
I feel confident enough to build a house now. Where do I buy one of those automatic hammer machines?
Thanks for the comment Vinni. Not sure what you mean by an “automatic hammer machine". What are you looking for?
@@FlexAbilityConcepts I was poking fun at the instructional video. But I did use this video drilling into a metal stud at my work. Used a larger 21/2” and it worked like a charm. Thanks for the awesome video bough
@@Chakawatever We appreciate your comments!
This is a self drilling screw. Self tapping screws require an a pre drilled or stamped hole.
Hi there @bigbrakeman1. Good catch! Self-tappers don’t necessarily have a drill point, so self-tappers aren’t always self-drillers. And self-drillers are self-tappers. But you’re right, it is a very common mistake. So common in fact, that the terms are often, in our experience, interchangeable. Thanks again.
Hi Frank, I searched countersinking screws and got your video. Do you have a video explaining how to countersinking without a drill press into sheet metal? Is there such a thing?
Hi Mahmood, thanks for the question. Sorry, but we don’t have a video explaining how to countersink a hole in sheet metal. I typically use a countersink bit in a hand-held drill for that. But since our actual focus is on metal stud framing and our Flex-Ability Concepts products, and we never have a application where countersinking the screws in metal studs is helpful, we just haven’t made such a video. Maybe we should just for fun! Hope you are able to find what you are looking for.
We all know someone that needs to watch this
That was actually very informative! Thanks
Very glad you liked it. Thanks for watching.
Simple and ingenious that is much appreciated! Have a great day
Thanks for the kind comment Jeff!
Great video - thanks!
Thanks for the feed back, Roland. Glad it helped!
What is the thickest metal you can use these screws on? I need to secure something on a metal Pope that has 5mm walls. Do you think that would be too much resistance for this product? Thanks
Many thanks for your question. Five mm is too thick for the type of self-drilling or self-tapping screw that I used in the video. The drill bit tip is too short to drill all the way through the five mm before the threads begin to catch. These little screws are made for sheet metal, more like .5 mm to 1.5 mm, or 20 to 16 ga. They do make a self-drilling screw with a long drill bit tip, (before the threads start on the shaft) that is longer to drill through thicker metal, possibly through your 5 mm metal. Just call your local fastener supplier, (probably not just a big box store to get these specialty screws) and they should be able to get just the right screw for your application.
Since these are pretty beefy, they will probably have a hex head on them.
Hope this helps!
@@FlexAbilityConcepts ah thanks for the help!
@@theparkourlady894 Glad to be of assistance!
Very good teaching.
You baby boomers are great
Thank you for the kind words! Glad it was of help.
Good video. I like the dry humour.... but as a few others have already suggested already; I think in some contexts/situation - a smaller diameter pilot hole reference is needed if the secondary metal is considerably **thicker** than the primary metal;
Yes, if the secondary metal is “considerably” thicker, it does create its own set of potential problems. First of all, I’d definitely recommend clamping the two layers together so that when it quickly drills through the first layer, it doesn’t start threading into it and lift it up and away from the second, thicker layer, which is going to take some more time to drill through. If the second layer is really, really thick, you’ll probably want to drill a pilot hole with a drill bit, the same size as the drill point on the screw and then run the self-tapping screw through both of them. If the second layer is too thick or too hard for the self-tapping screw to successfully cut threads into, you’ll probably want to go ahead and tap some threads with a tap and install a screw with “machine” threads, such as a 8-24 or 10-24, etc. But that is much slower! That’s why these self-tapping screws come in so handy for rapid constructions assemblies! Thank you for your comment and please don't hesitate to let us know if we can be of any further assistance.
Thanks for you detailed reply. I'm just beginning a small fencing project; and two of the new thin sheet metal post extrusions need to be attached to some existing 4mm thick square section gate posts. Oh.. and one panel edge will be into masonry plugs as well; which is probably drifting off into another topic.
What a great video, thank you so much!
Avasarala, glad it was of help!
This is a comment that was posted by Tera GX. We apologize for deleting it by mistake so are reposting the original question with an answer from us.
Comment: "I used these to modify my desk and it was great solution for a while. But overtime the holes have become stripped. It's a hollow column so there is no "back side" for me to work with. Are there any good ways I can reinforce or improve a hole these made, while only accessing the hole from one side?"
Answer: If you are using these self-tapping screws to fasten two layers of sheet metal together, and the layers are stripped out, I would recommend finding a larger diameter sheet metal screw and install it into this same hole. It doesn’t even need to be a self-tapping screw since the pilot hole is already made, but if it is a larger screw it will grab the sides of the hole and hold it secure.
Will the Dewalt 257 screwgun with 2500 rpm sufficient for enstalling sheet metal
Yes, I’m not particularly familiar with the DeWalt model numbers, but any good 2500 rpm screwgun will be excellent for installing these sheet metal screws.
Thanks for the quick info.. now off to mount the transmission cooler.
You are welcome! Glad you benefited from it!
Great video!!👍
Thanks! We are glad you liked it!
Thank you so much. Very helpful.
Very helpful. Thanks!
David, we're glad it was helpful! Thank you for the kind words!
How would you tap cast iron shower base?
Hi Mike,
The screws discussed in this video are designed to be used in sheet metal applications. If you want to “tap” threads into cast iron, these screws will definitely not do the job. You will need to use a “tap” which will cut these threads into the hard, somewhat brittle, cast iron. And before you can tap those threads, you’ll need to drill the proper hole with a drill bit, not a screw. Each size tap has a specific drill size to get the proper amount of “meat” left in the hole to cut proper threads. It is a more time-consuming job, but it is the best way to tap threads into cast iron without cracking it or stripping out the hole. I’ll bet you can find a youtube video that shows you the steps and method on how to do this. It’s just not in our area since we’re more in the metal stud framing business and they don’t normally make cast iron studs.
Hope this helps Mike and thank you for the question!
Thanks a lot, just what I needed to know. Great explanation too.
Thank you! Glad it helped.
Really nice video! Thanks for the explanation.
Many thanks for the kind comments!
Your awesome mate, thanks for taking your time
nice. thanks for the tips
Anthony, Thanks for the kind words. Glad it helped out!
@@FlexAbilityConcepts Sure. Thinking of trying it out
@@anthonydefex Let us know how it goes!
@@FlexAbilityConcepts I will. Funny intro though
@@FlexAbilityConcepts Hi Frank. How do I search for exactly that screw? I tried "Philips #2 self-tapping sheet metal screws" but don't find something with that exact wording.
Good on ya mate,well done 👍
Thanks for the kind words Steve!
I need to fasten some heavier stuff to the sides of my van. The sheet metal is a bit thicker, (as I suppose a man like you probably know). What way would you recommend me doing it? I need to hang stuff that are 10-15 pounds in weight. I can't use a bolt and a nut cause I don't have enough space, and this self tapping screw looks a bit flimsy.. Is there some other way to do it? And please, oh please don't say rivets cause I don't have a rivet gun nor have I've been using one in my life.... Thank you.
Hi Mark,
While these screws do look rather lightweight or flimsy, they are actually rated pretty high in pull-out and shear strength, depending on the metal you are screwing into. If your metal is too thin, the screw connection will not be as strong. When you are working with thicker sheet metal and need more strength, they make these self-drilling screws in larger diameter screws.
Also, as you pair up the screws the stability of the connection will increase greatly.
So, there, I was able to hopefully answer your question and I didn’t even mention rivets,--Oops, I just did!
Hope this helps, Frank
@@FlexAbilityConcepts thanks!
Nice video. Is bit on the screw matched to an actual bit size ? And do they come in stainless steel?
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Very informative! Thanks for the lesson
You're welcome! Thanks too for watching!
That was exciting
I am glad you enjoyed it!
Is it hard to screw them into pipe? Harbor Freight portable garage frand slip joints.
Hi Lydia, it all depends on the thickness or gauge of the pipe you’re trying to install the screw in. If it is any thicker than 16 gauge or about 1/16 of an inch I would recommend drilling a pilot hole through the pipes first and then you can install the screws into the pilot hole. Also pipes are a little tricky as the drill point of the screw will try and run off the side of the curve of the pipe. It may be easiest to use a center punch to put a little ding in the pipe so the drill point will stay where you want it and begin drilling the hole.
I hope this helps for your particular situation.
Please give s the link to those screws. Thanks
PL INFM DRILL BIT TO BE USED FOR FIXING SHEET METAL SCREW FOR
NO 2,3,4,5,6,8,10,12 AND 14
Nice instruction for someone who doesn't know a screw from a bolt.
Thanks for your kind comments. Glad it was helpful.
What is the best screw to use for Colorbond gate please
Damn if I would’ve seen this video
I would’ve still have my job.
2:00 how thick is that metal? will that tap into 1/4" hard steel like the flat side of T-post.
Good question. These screws are designed for use with sheet metal. A T-post is not only much thicker, but as you mentioned, hardened. They make self -drilling screws for thicker steel, but if the steel is hardened, they may or may not work. Thanks for the great question!
great video
Thank you!
Self drilling not self tapping. All screws do self tap but some drill the hole ss well hence the self drilling whereas others need a pilot hole done before using a drill bit- these are self tapping
Good catch! Self-tappers don’t necessarily have a drill point, so self-tappers aren’t always self-drillers. And self-drillers are self-tappers. But you’re right, it is a very common mistake. So common in fact, that the terms are often, in our experience, interchangeable. Thanks again
you are a good person! thank you!
I wish I had watched this yesterday before wasting a lot of time with the wrong Phillips bit & losing a lot of screws that wobbled off into oblivion.
Thanks for the comment, Buaile. Hope your project is going smooth!