How to make a beautiful chess piece
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- Опубликовано: 22 июл 2023
- In this video I show how to create three-dimensional chess pieces on a three axis CNC with no rotary attachment. I use @Carveco software and a Shapeoko xxl to carve the parts. The techniques I show here can be used on any machine including a @onefinity
follow along as I show the step-by-step process to create a great finish product with outstanding detail. 
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Thank you for the lesson. I’ve been using Carveco for almost a year now and I learn something new every time I open it. This is a definite “must try”. Fingers crossed 🤞
Great detail !!!
Thank you Kayla I hope it helps you when making your set!
Great stuff will have to try this.
Thank you!!
So many questions answered!! Thankyou very much for this video!!
Thank you! For watching hope it’s helpful!
Great video!
Thanks Mark!! Glad you enjoyed it!
A really great tutorial Vernon well presented. I was delighted to meet you both at Maker Central.
Thanks Paul your tutorial is great too I watched it several times
WOW, and another great view by VERNON THE GREAT. You really show how to make great projects. Please keep them comin, OK. I just love these inspiring videos.
Glad you liked it Karl I’ll do my best for you
Great video, I am likely to watch it several times, then go to pen and paper for the steps. I have a widescreen monitor and I think I can put your video on one side and Carveco on the other and work through the steps. I have wanted to make a chess set for some time. Thanks for the tutorial. I encourage you to go ahead with the next step.
Thank you!
hope it helps you
From Instagram to here 😉. Subscribed!
Thank you!!
Thank you for the heavy lifting here. I can really appreciate your experience and you make it very easy to understand. Question- Have you been able to 3d carve from a photo from your phone? or just a simple jpeg? I have been looking into this and I believe you need to convert "properly" the image to a good quality 3d greyscale heightmap with accentuated contrasts and edges that the software can understand.
Thank you for the kind words
Unfortunately no I haven’t done a photo carve
However I believe you are correct you will need a conversion software to accomplish it
@@Hinkleshop You are welcome. I'm in a struggle to purchase the correct software for my cnc machine I bujilt (mpcnc) and I've used Fusion 360 w/ inkscape for a few projects. Considering carveco, vectric, carbide create and now found cambam. Have you tried out any of the other software programs and can add your opinion? I really don't want to start out with a $1,000 dollar software purchase or the constant monthly payments as it is a hobby now.
I haven’t used the others
I am a strong proponent of @carveco Maker it can do just about anything a hobbyist CNC user would need
It does have somewhat of a steep learning curve but no worse than fusion and although it is a monthly subscription the price is very reasonable and in my opinion/experience well worth it
Looking at your probe, it's thicker than the aluminium crossbar. Why don't you place the probe on the solid piece of wood below the crossbar?
It's flat and have body to place the probe instead of a balancing act with a wedge above that crossbar.
Order of carving:
You advice to do the sides first. How exactly do you proceed?
First the roughing cut on 1 side, rotate the piece of wood 180 degrees and roughing the second half. Than change the bit for the finishing cut. Rotate 180 degrees again for the second half. Followed by the finishing cut for the front and back?
Basically you only set the Z once for the end mill to cut the 2 sides. When finished you set the Z for the ball nose to cut 2 sides plus front and back.
Or do you have 2 tool changes for each side?
I used the probe on the wood not the crossbar
I complete each side before any rotation
Complete left and right sides then the front and back
@@Hinkleshop I understand you probe on the wood. What I try to explain is you have a big chunk of the wood below the cross bar. There is plenty of material to place the probe and set the Z.
All you have to do extra is move Y minus with a certain distance, so it's above the probe and set the Z.
Great tutorial, well done on the explanations. I believe you can save yourself the math though. You basically want a bottom offset of 1/2 of your material or 0.875 in this case. If you enter that into the bottom offset Carveco will calculate all the rest. Nicely done, cant wait to try it out.
Thank you for the info I hadn’t thought of that and I bet you’re right about entering the number thanks again
Great tutorial with some good hints.
Note you are using Maker +. Will this work on just Maker?
Thank you
Yes it will work with maker
Could you save some time by revising your rectangular boundary for the last two cuts? Seems like the majority of the material is removed in the first two iterations, and on the third and fourth cut you are spending most of of the time in free air not cutting anything. Could you lower the boundary box X width down to about 1/4" or less just to take care of the remaining material? Haven't actually carried out the process on my own yet so I could be missing some details.
Thanks for watching
On sides three and four i eliminate the rough pass and use only the finish pass because you are correct sides first then back and front can be completed with the taper ball
nice, but why not calculate that seam left over what thickness it is and adjust the carving on both sides so its perfect from 2 processess instead of 4?
Thanks for watching if done correctly with the bottom offset calculation there is no visible seem
Excellent video, I did a piece, first attempt, didn't set the offset like you said. Turned out ok but not great. One question, instead of going through the math, couldn't you just put half the material thickness in the bottom offset box and be done with it?
Thank you !
I don’t think that will work but it’s worth a try give it a go and keep me updated
Great video, easy to follow. Thanks again for a great tutorial video. Hi all, im new to the cnc world, what tools or company would be best recommend for a job like this? so I can get and load the tool database into my machine, cheers all.
Thanks for watching and glad you enjoyed it
@@Hinkleshop Hi, What tool database did you use, so I can do exact what you are teaching here, thanks mate keep these very informative vids coming.
@wck2318
The tool database I use is right in carvecomaker, and I’ll do my best to keep the videos coming
I only have Carveco Maker and not the PLUS ... Can I still do this? This is awesome!!!
Thank you!! And yes you should be able to do this with maker
Sweeeeet!!!! TY!!!!
Sir, I have a couple of questions if u don't mind. ref chess to chess set. I have followed all of your instructions and I am getting better. the problem I am running in to is when I do the finish the piece is being cut off at the top and flys off of . I know u said to leave a little at the top I have done that but it cuts all the way through I am using carveco maker on silverback 6060 and easel for the g code.the other thing I find that the pieces are being cut very thin. and prone to break while carving . thank you for your time . and that u in advance.
Hey Joseph
If the piece goes flying off the top you are probably leaving too much material at the top I’ve had that happen too
As far as the piece being thin that would seem to be a z height issue may need to increase z height on the piece so there is enough material to carve without getting too thin
Be sure to keep your feed rate rather slow
Also cut the sides of the pieces first then cut the front and back using only a finish pass on front and back no rough pass needed if you cut the side completely first
Hope this helps
thank you.@@Hinkleshop
afrer u zero for the roughing cut where do u zero for the finishing . I tried the same zero for finishing but bit not touching. thanks.
Thanks for watching
I re-zero for z off of the stock just in front of the clamp fixture
Using the touch block you will need to support the back of the block with a wedge/shim
Don’t re zero x or y that point does not change
Sir, ref chess set. in your video u said the stock was 2x2 all around u also stated that the stock must be trimed to 1.1/4 is that all four sides . also the settings in the toolpaths are they used for all four sides. back ,right, and so on and for the rest of the set. thanks.
Thanks for watching
Yes all must be trimmed to 1-1/4
Same settings throughout just adjust the y setting on the pawns alone to shorten them just a small amount
thank u very much@@Hinkleshop
Sir, one more question. what carving times are u getting for roughing carve. I am getting some strange Times at least to me one 12 min and the next time 35 min that's in roughing only. thank u once again .I am determined to do this.
@josephlanglois8073 roughing was averaging an hour per side and finishing was 2-3 per side
Check your safe z height set it to .1
I have tried doing these but the ears on my knight always break off onfinish passes
I used a 1mm tapered ball mill
Would you have any idea how I can avoid the ears from breaking
I would slow your feed
Also what species of wood are you carving
I use walnut,cherry,maple,sapele,or mahogany for all of my relief type carves they seem to hold best
@@Hinkleshop I use maple and walnut at a speed of 30ipm
Ok the next thing I can think of is try raising and lowering the piece so it leaves more or less stock at the top
ماشاء الله تبارك الرحمن ٠٠٠٠ماكينه ممتازه جدا هل بامكانهاصنع الشطرنج الخشب الكلاسيكي٠٠٠وكم ثمنها واصله الي ليبيا بنغازي بالدولار ٠٠٠٠
Can this be done with vcarve?
I’m not familiar with that software but I would say yes it’s all in the numbers and the mirror of the plug/male part
what am i doing wrong. i ran the rough left side. then the rough right side and they are offset. then i started to run the final cut on the front and it was again offset. any clues i adjusted each offset on each side to be 50 percent of the material
Hi Paul
You run both the rough and the finish on before you turn the stock
So you are completing the full carve on each face of the stock before proceeding to the next face hope that makes sense
@@Hinkleshop thanks i'll try it tomorrow so if the btm set is always adjusted to 50% of the stock it should all line up. thanks again
well i tried it again as you suggested, one side rough and finish then switch to the other side rough and finish. and still i have the issue where the left and right is offset from each other. i confirmed all the offsets on all 4 sides to ensure that i am always machining to the center of the stock and still it finishes offset. i thought the first time i did not re-centre the model after i resized it but this time i did that also. any more clue as to what i am doing wrong. my stock is square and the start point on the block is the same on all 4 sides. @@Hinkleshop
Sorry you’re having this much trouble
Is the machine returning exactly back to the same zero point
Also the stock isn’t moving during the carve is it
Have you completed all four sides
Send me a picture of the completed piece on my email 1lisahinkle@gmail.com
no the stock is very secure and the head always returns to the zero point. i guess it is not meant to be for me but thanks for all your video's they are very informative.
@@Hinkleshop
Carveco show the same chess set, same design, same process with its maker, an elderly gentleman using his 3018 machine, here on RUclips at ruclips.net/video/stOjPAeajGw/видео.html so who came to this first?
Thanks for watching
The gentleman you are talking about is Paul K. I’m not taking credit for coming up with it. There are several people creating videos on this topic.
I actually know that gentleman and gave him acknowledgement in the beginning of the video.
The idea is to help the community learn as much as they can
Some folks learn well from my videos other people learn easily from different creators.
So the objective isn’t to hypothetically stick out my chest and say I DID THIS 😆😆 it’s to help someone out trying to learn
Couldn’t you just link to the guy who made those first? You even used the same models he did……
You have just used Paul Kelsall's design and instructions, the least you can do is give him credit
Listen to the entire video I did
@@Hinkleshop I did watch the entire vid again, At 2.25 you mention "A gentleman who uses a spanner wrench to clamp down" and never actually giving him credit for this concept..Having said that I have subbed and watch most of your vids and they are all very informative (this one is probably better than Paul's) So please don't take my comment as an insult, I believe that all RUclips creators should get credit for their own concepts.
@@jefflawrence3846 you’re correct
Creaters should get credit for their stuff and I apologize if I didn’t do a good job doing so I will work to do better
The original creator for this technique is actually timberfalls on RUclips
I met Paul in the UK at makers central last year he is an amazing talented man
In our conversation he spoke about learning the technique from the channel I mentioned
Paul and I have discussed my video and he was very complimentary
And I meant no disrespect to Paul
Thank you for the sub and the kind words