Thanks for the video, got me most of the way there. You asked to let you know if anyone found out how to avoid cutting the cable, well here you go! The belden cable has a little fixed ball on the end, where it meets the top of the lumbar mechanism, wind the knob so you have as much play as possible, if you remove the foam covering the ball with a screwdriver you can pull it out, and unclip the rest of the cable from mechanism. Next the knob is in 2 parts, you can lever the outer part off, this exposes the inside of the adjuster mechanism. With plenty of slack on the cable you can now pull the remaining part of the knob out of the side of the bolster, this exposes the 2 screws you couldn't access. With the screws removed the inner part of the adjuster still sadly doesn't fit out through the hole in the seat chassis, there's a small plastic location lump, I found that trimming this on the inside of the seat but leaving the bit that actually locates it allowed enough movement to be able to maneuver the inboard part of the mechanism out through the side of the seat (and the hole in the cover). Hope that helps! Oh and for anyone else, if you only need to change the cover on the base, this is much simpler, as all the wiring is in the chassis.
Hey, I did not have a problem either lumbar support. I pulled the handle out and just stretched the leatherette over the top. The hole is cut in 4 places 3/8’s of an inch each. I wish I could have let you know this prior to cutting the cable but it was impossible as I was watching you to help minimize risk while removing my seat for stitching. Thank you for being there mate.
Sorted got my seat fully stripped the top leather out the lumber support clips out in to parts I've separated the wire that's attached to the airbags and heated seat wires had to carefully peel them away from seat foam just gave my leather to my ex mother in law as she is a seamstress is her job so hopefully it all goes back as easy as it came out thanks for the vid very helpful
I needed to do this on a drivers side seat. I practiced on an old passenger seat that I didn't need anymore. It was all pretty straight forward but after I put it all back together, the pressure mat that controls the airbag doesn't work anymore. No big deal since I'm not using that seat and the driver's side seat that I was practicing for doesn't have a pressure mat. IDK if I did something specific to break it or if it's just easy to break when switching covers, so I thought I'd mention it here for anyone else planning to do a cover swap.
One question though, I own a 2004 R50 mini and would like to know if the seat cover can be swapped and fit perfectly for every R50 models regardless of it's production year?
Cooper s and Cooper have different shape bolsters and covers. But i found the frames to be the same. Worth checking airbag fitment matches your replacement
Is the seat base upholstery and foam symmetrical, ie can I swap the driver and passenger base over? My drivers seat has become compacted but the passenger side is virtually pristine since it is rarely sat in. I have heated seats in an 2002 R53 Mini Cooper S but they're not leather or fake leather at all, just fabric. Car does not have Chilli Pack.
I have not tried this. Expect the foam is forgiving enough to try moving to the other side. But the cover less so. Any holes and clips would need to be the same.
![Mini Cooper passenger seat recline jammed [FIXED]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fvB8APJEGQc/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for the video, got me most of the way there. You asked to let you know if anyone found out how to avoid cutting the cable, well here you go!
The belden cable has a little fixed ball on the end, where it meets the top of the lumbar mechanism, wind the knob so you have as much play as possible, if you remove the foam covering the ball with a screwdriver you can pull it out, and unclip the rest of the cable from mechanism.
Next the knob is in 2 parts, you can lever the outer part off, this exposes the inside of the adjuster mechanism. With plenty of slack on the cable you can now pull the remaining part of the knob out of the side of the bolster, this exposes the 2 screws you couldn't access.
With the screws removed the inner part of the adjuster still sadly doesn't fit out through the hole in the seat chassis, there's a small plastic location lump, I found that trimming this on the inside of the seat but leaving the bit that actually locates it allowed enough movement to be able to maneuver the inboard part of the mechanism out through the side of the seat (and the hole in the cover).
Hope that helps!
Oh and for anyone else, if you only need to change the cover on the base, this is much simpler, as all the wiring is in the chassis.
Fantastic. You worked it out!
@@thomaswilding8818 I had to rewatch your video quite a few times to figure out how to get the headrest tubes out.
Hey, I did not have a problem either lumbar support. I pulled the handle out and just stretched the leatherette over the top. The hole is cut in 4 places 3/8’s of an inch each. I wish I could have let you know this prior to cutting the cable but it was impossible as I was watching you to help minimize risk while removing my seat for stitching. Thank you for being there mate.
Sorted got my seat fully stripped the top leather out the lumber support clips out in to parts I've separated the wire that's attached to the airbags and heated seat wires had to carefully peel them away from seat foam just gave my leather to my ex mother in law as she is a seamstress is her job so hopefully it all goes back as easy as it came out thanks for the vid very helpful
I needed to do this on a drivers side seat. I practiced on an old passenger seat that I didn't need anymore. It was all pretty straight forward but after I put it all back together, the pressure mat that controls the airbag doesn't work anymore. No big deal since I'm not using that seat and the driver's side seat that I was practicing for doesn't have a pressure mat. IDK if I did something specific to break it or if it's just easy to break when switching covers, so I thought I'd mention it here for anyone else planning to do a cover swap.
One question though, I own a 2004 R50 mini and would like to know if the seat cover can be swapped and fit perfectly for every R50 models regardless of it's production year?
Cooper s and Cooper have different shape bolsters and covers. But i found the frames to be the same. Worth checking airbag fitment matches your replacement
@@thomaswilding8818 Thanks Thomas! So, as long as the airbag fitment matches, it should fit nicely I supposed?
Is it easy to change the back rest of the seat out? I need to replace mine since it’s broken moves when i stop at stop lights moves forward
No. Better to replace the entire frame. Swap your covers over to a seat with a good frame.
Is the seat base upholstery and foam symmetrical, ie can I swap the driver and passenger base over? My drivers seat has become compacted but the passenger side is virtually pristine since it is rarely sat in. I have heated seats in an 2002 R53 Mini Cooper S but they're not leather or fake leather at all, just fabric. Car does not have Chilli Pack.
I have not tried this. Expect the foam is forgiving enough to try moving to the other side. But the cover less so. Any holes and clips would need to be the same.