it would be good if you renamed this to indicate it's the wireless version. Mine doesn't match this (and it took embarrassingly long before I realised there was no cord attached to it)
The Basilisk v3 is Razer's reply to the g502, yes? So why are you repeating "I don't get it" when encountering Razer's take of a heavy, over-engineered 'gaming' mouse? Just like the g502, this thing is better suited as a productivity mouse because of the sheer mass and feature set. For instance: all you had to do was read the box to understand the purpose of the motorized cradle and metal insert for the wheel, haha. It reminds you of Logitech because that's the same system Logitech uses for their premium mice with free-spinning _metal_ wheels (for memeing in a spreadsheet, of course lolol). But Razer's design is a step up and uses software control that unlocks the wheel based on inertia/speed of a scroll. It's genuinely unique engineering for the application and should at least be recognized as such instead of being shit on for not meeting standards it wasn't made to fit, you know? Not trying to shame you or anything like that, just expressing the disappointment in propagating unearned negative sentiment since you do it from time to time. It's like dismissing a Ford Mondeo for failing to be a Lamborghini Murcielago 🚗🏎️ Having said all this, _thank you_ for the teardown. As ever, it helped sate my curiosity on the tech that can be packed into these things. I only just today discovered the scroll wheel feature this specific one has, and even though Razer grosses me out, I'm now likely to grab one just to play with it and see how I can experiment with the software
@@Beardedbob Hey Bob do you think you could find an Artisan Hayabusa mousepad to review? That's a really old model that does not exist anymore and I can't find any reviews for it on the internet, it would be great if you could find one.
so originally i was watching this vid because the scroll wheel i spun it way to hard and broke the gear so when i spun it, it broke and would not make that noise and had no gear so i watched this vid to figure out where to push it back in to fix the wheel thx this really helped awesome content bob.
Razer's RGB's are better distributed than the G502 X Plus one's I have a small gap at every corner of the RGB X of the G502's that drives me crazy x333333
just left and right, no current goes in those switches, only light from the pcb that does the job, all other switches are classic, soldered. same for optical keyboards, the pcb does the job, the switches are simple and can be removed fast.
can you remove the battery and use it wired since it shouldnt need the battery to function in wired mode right since supposedly you can just use it as a wired mouse (i dont have it but ive had the g502x wired so im interested in it as an alternative) but i dont want to buy it unless i can remove that fat brick pulling it down while still having the improvements of the pro with the advantages of wired thanks if you could tell me
Hello Bob. Thank for the tear down and for saving me some time to open my mouse. Can you please tell me if I can put a 'Razer Basilisk Ultimate' battery in 'Razer Basilisk V3 Pro'. My v3 pros battery drains very quickly, but till now there is no after market battery for V3 Pro. Your response will be helpful and save me some time, if you know the answer. Thanks.
@@Beardedbob Do you know why it could be that when i press the scroll wheel down it only slightly moves downwards. It doesnt really click but I can get the button to work if i really press hard.
N(M)ice! Just had my White V3 Pro replaced after that scroll wheel acted strange and started doing rounded noises when using it as "Free Scroll", got stuck a little, the sides rubber grip also came yellowish as hell, replaced for a new one.
Hi. That was really great video. I am only missing one part :D I have this mouse in white color, and after 2 months it start yellowing on sides (the part where the side clicks are located. Actually part you hold your thumb on) Is it possible to remove and replace this part?
@ yh man might just upgrade to the basilisk v3 pro 35k, if it’s anything like the viper ur gonna need to rip it off or use a cutter box knife or something to take it off slowly if you don’t have patience ,its gonna be a shit job, idk if they even sell side grips for these doe
Are you still using your mouse without any problems? I bought Basilisk v3 pro 1 month ago and the flickering of the middle click wheel bothers me a lot. I don't know if this is a malfunction or if all v3 pro models are like this, can you help me?
no current goes in those switches, only light from the pcb that does the job, all other switches are classic, soldered. same for optical keyboards, the pcb does the job, the switches are simple and can be removed fast.
It kind of makes me a little sad that this mouse is getting lots of comments about how heavy and how unnecessary the plastic and the pieces are inside like who cares it’s a gaming mouse. It’s not like it’s a cheap mouse. If it was a cheap mouse I’d understand why there would be complaints about so much plastic and it being this or that but this Is a gaming mouse who cares if it’s heavy
love being sold broken shit from a store then being forced to buy a warranty cause of the manufactures negligence. Tiny broken piece inside the part that contains the scroll that holds the metal part down so its now stuck in free spin mode and broken only had my mouse for 2 months 160 dollars for what.
So, I watch and think - oh, here's a label with QR code. Will he peel it off and weigh it? Sure, he did :) This mouse is one of those rare cases when the manufacturer has put in both optical switches and an optical scrollwheel encoder, which is a very sensible solution if you ask me. Otherwise, it's funny to see them brag about optical switches surviving millions of clicks and then reading angry Amazon reviews from people who have to replace the mouse because the scrollwheel started glitching in just a few months. All of my mice with mechanical wheel encoders did not last more than two years. Optical encoders lasted much longer, but then I had to replace or repair the mouse anyway because it started double-clicking. I just wish there was a slimmer version of Basilisk. That left-side bottom lip does not match my grip style at all. I have fingertip grip, my arm does not move at all, I hold the mouse with my fingers and move it around just a little. The sensitivity is set to almost the highest, so a slight movement is enough to cover the entire screen. For this reason, I also like my mouse to be heavier so that it doesn't move on itself. I really miss my very first Logitech mouse that had a heavy metal piece inside - it was simple, lasted for years... and had PS/2 connection. I have tried its replacement from Logitech, but those do not last more than 2 years. Even G102 suffers from quality issues - the rubber on the wheel got all sticky and disintegrated in a year, so I removed it completely and have a bare plastic wheel - it works fine. But now I have false double-clicks. Sigh. So, looking for a solid long-lasting mouse with optical wheel and switches that, hopefully, would last at least 3 years.
I think I've had my Mx510 for around 8 years during which I HEAVILY used it. What an amazing mouse that was back then. Probably a failure for the company though because of how long it lasted. Too bad the Basilisk doesn't fit you well enough. I also use fingertip, more on the bigger side in terms of hands and the grip could be a bit wider but overall it fits me pretty well. Tested a bunch of mice now that I want to replace my G402 and I really like the Basilisk except that it's too heavy and the M1+M2 are just way too loud for my liking. Sadly it seems that it's not possible to put in non-optical switches like those Kailh silent ones. So now I ordered a Glorious Model I, which has the same form and size but other switches, to see how that works.
It always amuses me how companies cheap out on random little things like switches. What, you couldn't plug in five more optical switches, making the mouse cost two more dollars to manufacture, rising the price fromtwenty dollars to twenty two? Toss in a proper hall sensor scroll wheel with dual flying conical bearings and stainless steel feet, upping it to thirty dollars (need more or better controllers to operate the hall sensors without deadzoning)? Then again, a mouse that doesn't break is bad for business.
Hey @beardedbob I like your work and I saw an opportunity that may help you get some extra visibility. The "Fer" player of the CS:GO Imperial team has been using the SteelSeries Rival 300 mouse for years (not sponsored by steelseries wtf?), and his mouse started to have a problem with the clicks, I think if you send an updated Rival 300 or send a message saying that you can update with a new sensor and new clicks, maybe they can do some marketing for you. Anyway, I really appreciate your work
my friend this is the "Basilisk V3 Pro" not "Basilisk V3" the two mouses are totally different from one another, please fix the video title
it would be good if you renamed this to indicate it's the wireless version.
Mine doesn't match this (and it took embarrassingly long before I realised there was no cord attached to it)
The Basilisk v3 is Razer's reply to the g502, yes? So why are you repeating "I don't get it" when encountering Razer's take of a heavy, over-engineered 'gaming' mouse? Just like the g502, this thing is better suited as a productivity mouse because of the sheer mass and feature set. For instance: all you had to do was read the box to understand the purpose of the motorized cradle and metal insert for the wheel, haha. It reminds you of Logitech because that's the same system Logitech uses for their premium mice with free-spinning _metal_ wheels (for memeing in a spreadsheet, of course lolol). But Razer's design is a step up and uses software control that unlocks the wheel based on inertia/speed of a scroll. It's genuinely unique engineering for the application and should at least be recognized as such instead of being shit on for not meeting standards it wasn't made to fit, you know?
Not trying to shame you or anything like that, just expressing the disappointment in propagating unearned negative sentiment since you do it from time to time. It's like dismissing a Ford Mondeo for failing to be a Lamborghini Murcielago 🚗🏎️
Having said all this, _thank you_ for the teardown. As ever, it helped sate my curiosity on the tech that can be packed into these things. I only just today discovered the scroll wheel feature this specific one has, and even though Razer grosses me out, I'm now likely to grab one just to play with it and see how I can experiment with the software
Thanks for the awesome content Bob. Always enjoy these teardowns.
Thanks glad you enjoy the content 🥰
@@Beardedbob Hey Bob do you think you could find an Artisan Hayabusa mousepad to review? That's a really old model that does not exist anymore and I can't find any reviews for it on the internet, it would be great if you could find one.
so originally i was watching this vid because the scroll wheel i spun it way to hard and broke the gear so when i spun it, it broke and would not make that noise and had no gear so i watched this vid to figure out where to push it back in to fix the wheel thx this really helped awesome content bob.
Razer's RGB's are better distributed than the G502 X Plus one's I have a small gap at every corner of the RGB X of the G502's that drives me crazy x333333
can you tell me the approx. size of the battery? thinking about upgrading it.
Hey could i ask what are the height of the slide click switchs and the scroll click thanks i have the bas v3
very good teardown video, full of details, thanks👍🏻
thanks man hope it helps
Used this video to clean my clickers after spiling soda in the! Worked like a charm! Thank you!
I have a question, are the side switches optical or is it just left and right buttons?
just left and right, no current goes in those switches, only light from the pcb that does the job, all other switches are classic, soldered. same for optical keyboards, the pcb does the job, the switches are simple and can be removed fast.
The scroll wheel can have the encoder feel turned off by software, so the gear box is for the motor to move the bar
Is it possible to turn off/remove all rgb leds?
yes use sinapse and set a black color
Polychromatic/OpenRazer can control Razer lighting in Linux.
yea, sent mine in to for the same reason...great mouse but super heavy
Tanks for the vid, can you take the sniper button out before breaking anything?
can you remove the battery and use it wired since it shouldnt need the battery to function in wired mode right since supposedly you can just use it as a wired mouse (i dont have it but ive had the g502x wired so im interested in it as an alternative) but i dont want to buy it unless i can remove that fat brick pulling it down while still having the improvements of the pro with the advantages of wired thanks if you could tell me
It’s something I’ve been asked a lot but need to check. I willl do a video on it, if you don’t see it soon remind me 👍
@@Beardedbob hey its been a while but i think you forgot to do it correct me if im wrong but its been like a month, did you ever find out?
Hello Bob. Thank for the tear down and for saving me some time to open my mouse. Can you please tell me if I can put a 'Razer Basilisk Ultimate' battery in 'Razer Basilisk V3 Pro'. My v3 pros battery drains very quickly, but till now there is no after market battery for V3 Pro. Your response will be helpful and save me some time, if you know the answer. Thanks.
I tried to open mine but the screws just turned into circles, the metal of the screw was softer than how hard it was screwed down :)
sounds like the screw is stripped of the thread
@@Beardedbob Do you know why it could be that when i press the scroll wheel down it only slightly moves downwards. It doesnt really click but I can get the button to work if i really press hard.
N(M)ice!
Just had my White V3 Pro replaced after that scroll wheel acted strange and started doing rounded noises when using it as "Free Scroll", got stuck a little, the sides rubber grip also came yellowish as hell, replaced for a new one.
Hi. That was really great video. I am only missing one part :D I have this mouse in white color, and after 2 months it start yellowing on sides (the part where the side clicks are located. Actually part you hold your thumb on) Is it possible to remove and replace this part?
Any luck?
@Lospapi319 Nope :( kinda shit.
@ yh man might just upgrade to the basilisk v3 pro 35k, if it’s anything like the viper ur gonna need to rip it off or use a cutter box knife or something to take it off slowly if you don’t have patience ,its gonna be a shit job, idk if they even sell side grips for these doe
Thanks I was able to fix the scroll wheel wobble by placing thin squares of card paper on both tilt buttons
Are you still using your mouse without any problems? I bought Basilisk v3 pro 1 month ago and the flickering of the middle click wheel bothers me a lot. I don't know if this is a malfunction or if all v3 pro models are like this, can you help me?
@@yuinn0 yes the mouse is still working perfectly. There is still little wobble but very much reduced from the original.
@@jumpoi Did you put cardboard at the spot where the man placed his finger and removed the wheel at minute 8:35?
does the razer basilisk v3 wired version left and right click switch are hot swappable ?
should be
Scroll wheel thats almost 1/4 the weight of my entire mouse, lol.
Haha yep, the a thic wheel
how do i open this fuking thing to replace my battery
Ask in the video 👍..or I do some live on twitch.tv/Beardedbob
So the main switches dont need to be soldered?
no current goes in those switches, only light from the pcb that does the job, all other switches are classic, soldered. same for optical keyboards, the pcb does the job, the switches are simple and can be removed fast.
Excellent video !
i Wanted to ask , is there some non destructive piece i can remove to reduce the weight ?
It kind of makes me a little sad that this mouse is getting lots of comments about how heavy and how unnecessary the plastic and the pieces are inside like who cares it’s a gaming mouse. It’s not like it’s a cheap mouse. If it was a cheap mouse I’d understand why there would be complaints about so much plastic and it being this or that but this Is a gaming mouse who cares if it’s heavy
honestly most razer mice have extra plastic at weird places
Sure do
Title needs to be V3 Pro
optical encoder?
It would be nice, but I didn't see Razer to mention this anywhere...
love being sold broken shit from a store then being forced to buy a warranty cause of the manufactures negligence. Tiny broken piece inside the part that contains the scroll that holds the metal part down so its now stuck in free spin mode and broken only had my mouse for 2 months 160 dollars for what.
non removable thumb button killed this mouse for me.
Yeah that would have been nice
So, I watch and think - oh, here's a label with QR code. Will he peel it off and weigh it? Sure, he did :)
This mouse is one of those rare cases when the manufacturer has put in both optical switches and an optical scrollwheel encoder, which is a very sensible solution if you ask me. Otherwise, it's funny to see them brag about optical switches surviving millions of clicks and then reading angry Amazon reviews from people who have to replace the mouse because the scrollwheel started glitching in just a few months. All of my mice with mechanical wheel encoders did not last more than two years. Optical encoders lasted much longer, but then I had to replace or repair the mouse anyway because it started double-clicking.
I just wish there was a slimmer version of Basilisk. That left-side bottom lip does not match my grip style at all. I have fingertip grip, my arm does not move at all, I hold the mouse with my fingers and move it around just a little. The sensitivity is set to almost the highest, so a slight movement is enough to cover the entire screen. For this reason, I also like my mouse to be heavier so that it doesn't move on itself. I really miss my very first Logitech mouse that had a heavy metal piece inside - it was simple, lasted for years... and had PS/2 connection. I have tried its replacement from Logitech, but those do not last more than 2 years. Even G102 suffers from quality issues - the rubber on the wheel got all sticky and disintegrated in a year, so I removed it completely and have a bare plastic wheel - it works fine. But now I have false double-clicks. Sigh. So, looking for a solid long-lasting mouse with optical wheel and switches that, hopefully, would last at least 3 years.
I think I've had my Mx510 for around 8 years during which I HEAVILY used it. What an amazing mouse that was back then. Probably a failure for the company though because of how long it lasted.
Too bad the Basilisk doesn't fit you well enough. I also use fingertip, more on the bigger side in terms of hands and the grip could be a bit wider but overall it fits me pretty well. Tested a bunch of mice now that I want to replace my G402 and I really like the Basilisk except that it's too heavy and the M1+M2 are just way too loud for my liking. Sadly it seems that it's not possible to put in non-optical switches like those Kailh silent ones. So now I ordered a Glorious Model I, which has the same form and size but other switches, to see how that works.
The DPI Switches are awful.
You say its heavuest check something like mx master 2s 😂
Yeah that mx master is a beast
It always amuses me how companies cheap out on random little things like switches. What, you couldn't plug in five more optical switches, making the mouse cost two more dollars to manufacture, rising the price fromtwenty dollars to twenty two? Toss in a proper hall sensor scroll wheel with dual flying conical bearings and stainless steel feet, upping it to thirty dollars (need more or better controllers to operate the hall sensors without deadzoning)? Then again, a mouse that doesn't break is bad for business.
You need more mids/highs in your voice, you're basically unintelligible. Still good video tho
It's sooo overengineered
You should see the Logitech g502x it’s like the engineer wanted to justify his job it’s they over complex
bro this is the Ultimate not V3
it is the basilisk v3 pro, i know this because i own one and in the intro the wireless usb thing says the name (BSKv3 PRO)
Hey @beardedbob I like your work and I saw an opportunity that may help you get some extra visibility. The "Fer" player of the CS:GO Imperial team has been using the SteelSeries Rival 300 mouse for years (not sponsored by steelseries wtf?), and his mouse started to have a problem with the clicks, I think if you send an updated Rival 300 or send a message saying that you can update with a new sensor and new clicks, maybe they can do some marketing for you.
Anyway, I really appreciate your work