When my late Dad died, I ended up with most of his master machinist plus all his nuts and bolts and screws from the 60s or 70s. Like a thousand of them #@!**&#. ALL of them were flat blade ! Many in brass. I took them all to the scrap yard. Sorry Dad. One of the older guys went wide eyed and could'nt believe I was scrapping them ! He bought them for his own use, for 75 bucks ! I was more than happy that someone would willingly deal with those #@!**&# things. I hate them too !
I am pleased that you show the camshaft of this engine at 27:31. It uses 4 lobes to acuate 8 valves. That can be realised in a boxer engine. The benifit is lowe production cost and the backside is twice as high wear on the lobes. After 150.000 km, or soon after, the 0.4 mm hardened layer on the lobes is worn away, and indents become visible. (27:15). This car has driven, say 130.000 kms, I can see that on the lobe wear. Using harder valve springs for more revs will increase the wear obviously, unless you use a very high quality cam with obscure surface treatment, such as diamond vapor deposition. The design of the engine is very limited in tuning if endurance is also a requirement.
For people watching PBlaster or Liquid Wrench helps get frozen/rusted stuff apart, WD40 doesn't. If you can, start hitting them with blaster days in advance. Every day go over them with another shot. Even squirting them a few times, a few minutes apart will do wonders. Use antisieze on stuff going into aluminum when assembling. Or, get really good with drilling,extracting, tapping and helicoil installation. The choice is yours.
The bent-wire piece behind the rocker arms is not attached to the rocker stands, it just rests in the gaps in the bottom of the rocker shaft holders. You can pull one shaft at a time and pull the wire at any time. The purpose of the wire is not to hold the pushrods up; if the pushrods contact the wire at all it will wear a channel in them! It is there to hold the pushrod tubes all the way in against the case. The lower parts of the wire need to rest on the shoulders of the tube.
As if I wasn't jealous enough already of your nice big shop and your fancy tools, and being part of the Volkswagen syndicate with all the support and the endless supply of parts that entails, somehow you've also managed to get yourself under the wing of a kindly old mechanic to walk you through everything......You're living my dream bro.
Great video. Its been years since I pulled a T1 -T4 engine to bits. I used to run my own VW garage and this was a regular job to rebuild blocks when work was slack. At one time I had 40+ short blocks ready to go and fitted them all in one summer! Those were the days. My best survivor T2 engine struggled all the way from Turkey to the UK on three cylinders with the forth plug wedged in place with an old fence post when it blew the plug out. Try that with a modern engine!
We rebuild performance Type4's all the time. You've had a big win scoring one with the windage tray still installed. Type4 heads leak because of thin head washers so call European Motor Works in California and order some of thier Type4 ARP thick head washers. They also have some great performance Type4 cams for a 914. I'm bit surprised Darrin reckons your bottom end is good without even cleaning and measuring anything in the case. Good luck with it all.
Also, those 7mm nuts & washer that bolt the rocker gear on is not easy to find and neither is the pushrod tube retaining wires. So I'd be making sure they don't get lost.
The number one reason for guide wear is stock adjuster screws. Replace them when you set the valve geometry up with Porsche swivel adjusters and no more guide wear.
I was thinking to myself that there was very little I could pass on to my grandchildren. Not only will rusty and its restoration be available to my grandchildren but so will this new project. I just hope they live long enough to see its Completion.
CT it's good to have a friend like a Darrin, this guy is like an engine it self I bet he knows more about these motors then the books can dhow you things. Good luck and for sure you will be very pleased with the rebuild
Hey CT, I’ve got a 2 liter Type 4 and going to use the Jake Raby DTM cooling shroud kit so it will fit in my 71 bus. Don’t have to cut any metal. Just wrapping up a 1776 for my 66 bug. Your 914 is same yellow as my bus. Very cool collection dude!
Geez I'm an engine builder for Cosworth. And i was there all through our F1 days.. and if i worked like this . I'd have been fired.. just put the barrels on the concrete floor is bad practice. These guys are what we commonly refer to as rock apes Take your time stop smashing parts about.. lay every thing out in order..terrible.. rock apes..
Too right when I saw him attacking the broken spark plug with a drill and trying to take the head off without taking exhaust manifold off first - I thought classic Murican rock apes.
Can’t beat some good help from the VW man! So glad he checked the heads out, they are a common failure on a type 4 engine. Valve guide seals on a VW 🤦♂️
Hi CT loving today’s show, I’ve go a type 4 in my 79 auto bus. Somebody’s removed my bottom tins could you ask Darrin if they’re important I’ve just made some and fitting this week I live in the UK in the north and winter’s coming lols. Keep up the good work buddy
the tins that screw into the heater boxes or the tins that are snug tight up against the bottom of the heads, like RIGHT up against them? If the latter, you want those. The ones that screw into the heater boxes are there to protect your pushrod tubes from rocks/etc, so id replace those if you don't have em anymore.
Chris Renz hi buddy it’s the tins on the heat exchangers. As VW fitted them as factory fit I couldn’t understand why somebody would remove them . Thanks for the text keep safe mate
yea, my past experience of losing parts and forgetting how it all goes back together was screaming, get the tape, and a marker, take pictures...maybe CT's friend just has this info in his head, IDK...
Good job CT! If you would have tried to drive your 914 again, I think the engine would have been gone. I hope the body is much better than Rusty's. Good luck and keep on going! 😎👍
nice video, keep them coming !!!!! btw "RAP" is the marking that the wrecking yard put on that used part when they sold it to them (the previous rebuilders)..
Great video CT, it will be nice when it’s together again. I like the idea of reusing what is good and replacing what is needed. Smart thinking. Thanks for sharing.
Hi CT, I ran across a video of you shooting a video for Darrin's channel today. Love watching him put vw engines together. That start up on the one in his shop was cool to. Sounded sweet👍
He didn't have to take a lot of those fan housing assembly screws off, I just unbolt and remove the fan, remove the 4 nuts holding the fan housing to the block and undo the oil cooler bracket bolt and thermostat wire and pull the fan housing off.
That head looked better than I expected it to, given the overall condition of the car. Clean that head up and lap the valves, and you'll be good to go.
Yo tenia una volkswagen van pasajeros 1972 y utilizaba ese mismo motor 1700cc,lo repare y para ecomizarme unos dinero no le remplazo los pistones y cometí un tremendo error,me quedo sin fuerzas no podía subir una pegueña loma a menos que fuera en 1ra
The engine that originally powered a training aircraft, went on to power a variety of road/amphibious vehicles and went back to its roots powering light aircraft. Looked after properly they are damned near bullet proof.
That thermostat is already shot. When it's expanded like that, that is because it's hot or it has failed. It is only contracted closed when it's cold and that's when it pulls the flaps shut to aid in warmup.
Air cooling seems to be a cool idea...but the excess heat really stresses out engine parts. Especially with hi-performance engines. That's why Porsche went to water-cooled decades ago.
it's NBD pushing those 914's around, even the 2.0 t4's. When you throw them into a fully loaded Westfalia is when they start stretching valves and dropping seats.
@@frontleftspeakerposse I still say that a water-cooled version of this same engine would be more reliable....but if you're a true believer in the "Air-Cooled Way"....it's an exercise in futility to debate you!
Very interesting. And the extraordinary clutch made by R.A.P. 😄, maybe RAP stands for racing and performance 😂. But now you know where you at with this engine.
Stumbled across this clip as a retired vw shop tech after 38 yrs. Seen the good an ugly Chevy an ford Tech's hated these. IMO they were engineering marvels. Performance?? Check out " Inch Pincher" out of California. What did he say..200.00 maybe in 1970. More like 2500.00 maybe
You weren't paying attention when he removed the rockers.......also you left eveything on the ground instead of a container. You'll soon learn that's how things go missing. It's a motor don't be scared work sensibly and you'll get it done.
Yes step #2 after "drop the engine to the floor" is "Lift the engine onto an engine stand" I installed a beam clamp in my garage to hook a chain come-along to just for this purpose. The VW yoke that bolts to hlf of the case and slips into the engine stand is a must though. Using a generic engine mount/yoke wont allow you to split the case on the stand as it does not support the case halves properly.
THIS Engine GUY Knows his stuff....In the American car world Oldsmobiles were known as oil burners from the valvetrain, but they used spiral bored valve guides from the factory... Also why if you didn't pay attention to the smoke and kept adding oil as needed they lasted a very long time... I had a fleet of 25 Ford Vans with inline sixes, they put on about 75,000 miles a year...They were known to need valve work at around 3 years old 200-250K miles or so, I had half done with spiral bored and the other half with plain...at 400-500K when they needed to be completely overhauled, the spiral valve guides were closer to spec than the plain ones, though they had about 20% more oil consumption...Head overhauls and down time are expensive, oil is cheap...(we had a 55gal drum at the garage) everyone was required to check oil and top off all fluids daily. (its a long day when you put 250-300 miles on EVERY day, you need everything full)
Porsche 914 - “ Pancake “ engine ... !!!! I used to have that engine on my VW - bus 🚌 camper 1978. Special edition. ... !!!!! I’m not a mechanic but I was able to change spark plugs - I changed the transmisión - clutch ) .... ( Noting wrong with it -the coupler was bad - previous owner didn’t like standard transmisión .!!! And damaged it ... !!!!! I miss my VW. Sold it for $ 3,000. Today it will be $ 20-30 thousands !!!!!
As I watched him remove the head nuts, I was thinking to myself: Hes not going to try to remove the head with the exhaust still attached? That means he hasnt removed the screws from the engine tins underneath that keeps you from removing the head.
hi CT I was happy to watch the videos on the restoration of rusty as you dropped this project? Where is the problem with the welds? Thank you for your answer
thanks why I use anti seize on every spark plug. but there are two two types of previous owners: the PO ( previous owner) and DPO ( despised previous owner) looks like you have a DPO
Daren my man at CT ok, you got an old engine yep an oldie but a goodie hey we can rock&roll with rusty what's the plan? man how about some good chroming with cylinder heads and the crankcase wow, if we can do that man that would be awesome. how about a duel Port crabs, and maybe a Judson supercharger man you rollin
Hi CT nice to see you are on the engine together with the Master,Look and absorb knowlegde-The engine looks a mess bud with patience and a providble budget you can gett the engine functional again,Good luck greetings from HCS.
Between those new Milwaukee gloves and those shiny anodized sockets, he should be able to fix anyting, right down to that slightly offset spark plug hole that he drilled.
Thanks for watching! 😎 Please click the 👍👍👍 & leave a comment below! Please subscribe & click the 🔔 Thank you!!! 👍
Thanks!
Thank you! =)
I am constantly amazed at the simplicity/ingenuity on aircooled VW engines...also, I despise flat blade screws. lol
When my late Dad died, I ended up with most of his master machinist plus all his nuts and bolts and screws from the 60s or 70s. Like a thousand of them #@!**&#.
ALL of them were flat blade ! Many in brass. I took them all to the scrap yard. Sorry Dad. One of the older guys went wide eyed and could'nt believe I was scrapping them ! He bought them for his own use, for 75 bucks ! I was more than happy that someone would willingly deal with those #@!**&# things.
I hate them too !
Totally agree, great example of brilliant minimalist design and engineering.
About the fastners, yeah, probably a cost decision way back then.
I am pleased that you show the camshaft of this engine at 27:31. It uses 4 lobes to acuate 8 valves. That can be realised in a boxer engine. The benifit is lowe production cost and the backside is twice as high wear on the lobes. After 150.000 km, or soon after, the 0.4 mm hardened layer on the lobes is worn away, and indents become visible. (27:15). This car has driven, say 130.000 kms, I can see that on the lobe wear.
Using harder valve springs for more revs will increase the wear obviously, unless you use a very high quality cam with obscure surface treatment, such as diamond vapor deposition. The design of the engine is very limited in tuning if endurance is also a requirement.
For people watching PBlaster or Liquid Wrench helps get frozen/rusted stuff apart, WD40 doesn't. If you can, start hitting them with blaster days in advance. Every day go over them with another shot. Even squirting them a few times, a few minutes apart will do wonders. Use antisieze on stuff going into aluminum when assembling. Or, get really good with drilling,extracting, tapping and helicoil installation. The choice is yours.
That is the darn truth.
CT, you got a great teacher with Darrin, good luck on the rebuild...Dave
You are taking a crash course in engine repair with VWD, good for you !
Hey Peter! YES! It's pretty exciting!
The bent-wire piece behind the rocker arms is not attached to the rocker stands, it just rests in the gaps in the bottom of the rocker shaft holders. You can pull one shaft at a time and pull the wire at any time.
The purpose of the wire is not to hold the pushrods up; if the pushrods contact the wire at all it will wear a channel in them! It is there to hold the pushrod tubes all the way in against the case. The lower parts of the wire need to rest on the shoulders of the tube.
Passing the knowledge on. What a nice guy VWDarrin is.
Hey Mike! He really is! =)
As if I wasn't jealous enough already of your nice big shop and your fancy tools, and being part of the Volkswagen syndicate with all the support and the endless supply of parts that entails, somehow you've also managed to get yourself under the wing of a kindly old mechanic to walk you through everything......You're living my dream bro.
must be nice to know people in high places.....VW Darin has been there done that.great to watch skilled mechanic in action! Jack M
If I ever need a VW engine, I see the best in this video. My dad and brother would have loved to be there and wrenching and helping.
Hi CT, Thanks for sharing your breakdown with VWDarrin. Pretty cool !!! He is incredibly knowledgeable about our motors.
Great video. Its been years since I pulled a T1 -T4 engine to bits. I used to run my own VW garage and this was a regular job to rebuild blocks when work was slack. At one time I had 40+ short blocks ready to go and fitted them all in one summer! Those were the days. My best survivor T2 engine struggled all the way from Turkey to the UK on three cylinders with the forth plug wedged in place with an old fence post when it blew the plug out. Try that with a modern engine!
Great to see Darrin again as well.
Thanks man! Darrin is awesome!
I love the sensitivity the master Mecanic is applying to the porche engine 👏👏👏👏👏👏
We rebuild performance Type4's all the time. You've had a big win scoring one with the windage tray still installed. Type4 heads leak because of thin head washers so call European Motor Works in California and order some of thier Type4 ARP thick head washers. They also have some great performance Type4 cams for a 914. I'm bit surprised Darrin reckons your bottom end is good without even cleaning and measuring anything in the case. Good luck with it all.
Also, those 7mm nuts & washer that bolt the rocker gear on is not easy to find and neither is the pushrod tube retaining wires. So I'd be making sure they don't get lost.
Hey Mathew! Thanks for the tips man! How many have you rebuilt? Do you have a shop in Cali? I will check out EMW. Thank you!
@@CTmoog
I'm in Western Australia. But I deal with European a bit and know there quality too :)
@@CTmoog
Lost count of how many we've built. I built my 1st Type4 stroker in 1999 I think.
Awesome engine rebuild
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👏👌🏽👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
That brings back memories when I rebuilt my type 4. Make sure to replace the valve guides, not fun when they let go.
Hey John! Yes, new guide all around! Thanks man! Stay tuned!
The number one reason for guide wear is stock adjuster screws. Replace them when you set the valve geometry up with Porsche swivel adjusters and no more guide wear.
I was thinking to myself that there was very little I could pass on to my grandchildren. Not only will rusty and its restoration be available to my grandchildren but so will this new project. I just hope they live long enough to see its Completion.
CT it's good to have a friend like a Darrin, this guy is like an engine it self I bet he knows more about these motors then the books can dhow you things. Good luck and for sure you will be very pleased with the rebuild
Very good job
Thanks Ali!
Good to see you Guys getting after the 914 motor 👍
Hey CT, I’ve got a 2 liter Type 4 and going to use the Jake Raby DTM cooling shroud kit so it will fit in my 71 bus. Don’t have to cut any metal. Just wrapping up a 1776 for my 66 bug. Your 914 is same yellow as my bus. Very cool collection dude!
Nice vid! Can‘t go wrong with Darrin at your side - I‘m jealous!😉
Hey Michael! Yes, it's pretty awesome working with him! It's been dream of mine for some time!
This Darrin man sure knows a thing or two on VW stuff ! You're lucky to have him around.
Yeah he's doing all the work while CT picks (navel) lint...
Pretty clean Inside!
Geez I'm an engine builder for Cosworth. And i was there all through our F1 days.. and if i worked like this . I'd have been fired.. just put the barrels on the concrete floor is bad practice. These guys are what we commonly refer to as rock apes
Take your time stop smashing parts about.. lay every thing out in order..terrible.. rock apes..
Too right when I saw him attacking the broken spark plug with a drill and trying to take the head off without taking exhaust manifold off first - I thought classic Murican rock apes.
I'm glad someone said it.
I mentioned that he was handling those cylinders in a way that says he has never worked on one of these engines. I was attacked for mentioning it
This guys have never worked on a boxer engine, any old school vw tech would do it. This guys have no idea
Keep us posted on which new parts you're going to use. Nice to see Darren rebuild a type 4. Going to take notes. 👍
mantap 😂kopi mana kopi 👍
Daren is the man! This is going to be fun to see get rebuilt!
Hey ct i like the prosche motor but i want to see more videos from rusty its very interesting and i like this old vw bus
There is no Intel inside.
But:....🤓😎❤👍
Can’t beat some good help from the VW man! So glad he checked the heads out, they are a common failure on a type 4 engine. Valve guide seals on a VW 🤦♂️
Nice job. Your engine is in good hands
Hi CT loving today’s show, I’ve go a type 4 in my 79 auto bus. Somebody’s removed my bottom tins could you ask Darrin if they’re important I’ve just made some and fitting this week I live in the UK in the north and winter’s coming lols. Keep up the good work buddy
the tins that screw into the heater boxes or the tins that are snug tight up against the bottom of the heads, like RIGHT up against them? If the latter, you want those. The ones that screw into the heater boxes are there to protect your pushrod tubes from rocks/etc, so id replace those if you don't have em anymore.
Chris Renz hi buddy it’s the tins on the heat exchangers. As VW fitted them as factory fit I couldn’t understand why somebody would remove them . Thanks for the text keep safe mate
Wow, I don't know how you keep track of all the parts. I saw washers falling to the floor that no one picked up.
I felt that something was rushing them, there is no way that is going back together complete/correctly when nothing was ordered / bag and tagged.
yea, my past experience of losing parts and forgetting how it all goes back together was screaming, get the tape, and a marker, take pictures...maybe CT's friend just has this info in his head, IDK...
21:50 Pressure Plate FICHTEL & SACHS AG, Schweinfurt, Germany my Home town..
👍😎👍
Good job CT! If you would have tried to drive your 914 again, I think the engine would have been gone.
I hope the body is much better than Rusty's.
Good luck and keep on going!
😎👍
Thanks Andy! Yes, I guess the broken spark plug was a blessing in disguise!
Some people have to much time and money on their hands to be wasting, lucky are the ones that do!!!😀😃😋🙁😊
nice video, keep them coming !!!!! btw "RAP" is the marking that the wrecking yard put on that used part when they sold it to them (the previous rebuilders)..
Great video CT, it will be nice when it’s together again. I like the idea of reusing what is good and replacing what is needed. Smart thinking. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Aussie! Yes, whatever we can save we will. Stay tuned!
You both are cool gentlemen.
Dos bestias desarmando una joya
Super. 🎉🎉🎉
🎉 =)
Maravilloso. Gran. Video.
If some nut, bolt, sparkplug etc. is too tight. Just use the finnish code word... "Perkele". It will help... Regards Stig Österberg, from Dalsbruk
Hi CT, I ran across a video of you shooting a video for Darrin's channel today. Love watching him put vw engines together. That start up on the one in his shop was cool to. Sounded sweet👍
vous le posez sur une moto , whouaou !!!!
He didn't have to take a lot of those fan housing assembly screws off, I just unbolt and remove the fan, remove the 4 nuts holding the fan housing to the block and undo the oil cooler bracket bolt and thermostat wire and pull the fan housing off.
Yes, just the four nuts around the crank, and the whole thing comes off with the alternator still attached.
Very cool video, even when I think the handling of the parts were very rough.😟
The parts aren't that cheap then the Typ 1 stuff.
Type IV because they are 4x as much money !!!
"clutch kit is only $40..." uh more like $600
agree with Canuckguy, steam clean an engine before you tear it apart it makes life so much easier.
Now do you remember how to put it back together again??? LOL Fun and games.
If the Germans could have seen these two working on one of their beautiful engines like this they’d have tried harder in 1944.
beautiful engines they were crap engines
And knowing what your doing helps as well
That head looked better than I expected it to, given the overall condition of the car. Clean that head up and lap the valves, and you'll be good to go.
Yo tenia una volkswagen van pasajeros 1972 y utilizaba ese mismo motor 1700cc,lo repare y para ecomizarme unos dinero no le remplazo los pistones y cometí un tremendo error,me quedo sin fuerzas no podía subir una pegueña loma a menos que fuera en 1ra
Vw Darrin yeahhhhhhh mannnnnnnnn........
A like before it even starts
HAHA! =)
Good video love your camera work!
It pays to go to a VW guy for repair work and not a Chevy guy who doesn't have VW experience. Been there, unfortunately.
The engine that originally powered a training aircraft, went on to power a variety of road/amphibious vehicles and went back to its roots powering light aircraft. Looked after properly they are damned near bullet proof.
kebanyakan mekanik memang kaos e bolong ❤
Thank you! =)
Just to say hi &i,m enjoying your vids.
cheers.
Thank you!
Excellent video CT :) and keep videos rolling to
Nice to see your teaching that kid something NEW and keep him out of truble 😆
LOL! =)
That thermostat is already shot. When it's expanded like that, that is because it's hot or it has failed. It is only contracted closed when it's cold and that's when it pulls the flaps shut to aid in warmup.
Yeah, They will use a VW Beatle part like on Wheeler Dealers I guess as they implied on the TV Show they don`t make the original part anymore
xmoroseguyx actually you can get them. Awesomepowdercoat.com and they open at the correct temperature to.
@@frontleftspeakerposse Yep, installed one in my 2056cc I built in early 2012. Still going strong today.
Air cooling seems to be a cool idea...but the excess heat really stresses out engine parts. Especially with hi-performance engines. That's why Porsche went to water-cooled decades ago.
it's NBD pushing those 914's around, even the 2.0 t4's. When you throw them into a fully loaded Westfalia is when they start stretching valves and dropping seats.
@@frontleftspeakerposse I still say that a water-cooled version of this same engine would be more reliable....but if you're a true believer in the "Air-Cooled Way"....it's an exercise in futility to debate you!
Very interesting. And the extraordinary clutch made by R.A.P. 😄, maybe RAP stands for racing and performance 😂. But now you know where you at with this engine.
Stumbled across this clip as a retired vw shop tech after 38 yrs. Seen the good an ugly Chevy an ford Tech's hated these. IMO they were engineering marvels. Performance?? Check out " Inch Pincher" out of California. What did he say..200.00 maybe in 1970. More like 2500.00 maybe
You weren't paying attention when he removed the rockers.......also you left eveything on the ground instead of a container. You'll soon learn that's how things go missing. It's a motor don't be scared work sensibly and you'll get it done.
Great job. Keep up with your new found interest. The Bible is a good bed time reading before lights out at night. Your friend Ron
Thanks Ron! =)
Very awesome video!!!
Daniel! Thank you!
At least you have Darrin to help with his knowledge
What a shame. Bag and tag. Best to keep the pushrods in order and everything else.
lift the motor up ! your killing my back !
Yes step #2 after "drop the engine to the floor" is "Lift the engine onto an engine stand"
I installed a beam clamp in my garage to hook a chain come-along to just for this purpose.
The VW yoke that bolts to hlf of the case and slips into the engine stand is a must though.
Using a generic engine mount/yoke wont allow you to split the case on the stand as it does not support the case halves properly.
First...Greetings from Germany !
Hes looking for a guy with his own cham shaft not account
?? 🤔
surely the guides should be pre drilled out to thin the walls so they come out easier?
I remember seeing a few of these driving around 1972....but after watching this video...they were probably just going to/from a non-vw repair shop 😂
🤣
THIS Engine GUY Knows his stuff....In the American car world Oldsmobiles were known as oil burners from the valvetrain, but they used spiral bored valve guides from the factory... Also why if you didn't pay attention to the smoke and kept adding oil as needed they lasted a very long time... I had a fleet of 25 Ford Vans with inline sixes, they put on about 75,000 miles a year...They were known to need valve work at around 3 years old 200-250K miles or so, I had half done with spiral bored and the other half with plain...at 400-500K when they needed to be completely overhauled, the spiral valve guides were closer to spec than the plain ones, though they had about 20% more oil consumption...Head overhauls and down time are expensive, oil is cheap...(we had a 55gal drum at the garage) everyone was required to check oil and top off all fluids daily. (its a long day when you put 250-300 miles on EVERY day, you need everything full)
This is Awesome! Restoring one on my channel too. Not as established as your channel though! Good job man
CT - When you put the heads back on it is acceptable to leave out the head gaskets. But it will increase your compression a little.
Zoro
@@mariuscrangus657 ?
Porsche 914 - “ Pancake “ engine ... !!!! I used to have that engine on my VW - bus 🚌 camper 1978. Special edition. ... !!!!! I’m not a mechanic but I was able to change spark plugs - I changed the transmisión - clutch ) .... ( Noting wrong with it -the coupler was bad - previous owner didn’t like standard transmisión .!!! And damaged it ... !!!!! I miss my VW. Sold it for $ 3,000. Today it will be $ 20-30 thousands !!!!!
Not sure if I'm watching an engine tear down or a BBQ grill repair. LOL!
European technology !
As I watched him remove the head nuts, I was thinking to myself: Hes not going to try to remove the head with the exhaust still attached? That means he hasnt removed the screws from the engine tins underneath that keeps you from removing the head.
cool.
Thank you!
Ah, the big block of the air-cooled world. Rarely seen these days. l always wanted to put one of these in a Beetle just to see what it would do...
good
hi CT I was happy to watch the videos on the restoration of rusty as you dropped this project? Where is the problem with the welds? Thank you for your answer
thanks why I use anti seize on every spark plug.
but there are two two types of previous owners:
the PO ( previous owner)
and DPO ( despised previous owner)
looks like you have a DPO
great job. was it 1.7Ltr or 1.8 Ltr
Thank you. 1.7
conheço muitos motores box...mas esse motor nunca vi...super...
Daren my man at CT ok, you got an old engine yep an oldie but a goodie
hey we can rock&roll with rusty what's the plan? man how about
some good chroming with cylinder heads and the crankcase wow,
if we can do that man that would be awesome. how about a duel
Port crabs, and maybe a Judson supercharger man you rollin
Woah he is being a bit rough on that, take your time, do it right.
Rough as guts, fucked if i would have him work on my Porsche 914
VWDarrin on the job !!!
Hi CT nice to see you are on the engine together with the Master,Look and absorb knowlegde-The engine looks a mess bud with patience and a providble budget you can gett the engine functional again,Good luck greetings from HCS.
thank you.
fun to watch experienced mechanics...shit goes flying *everywhere*...bang, slam, whack. no problem!
Yes, it's all good! =)
Between those new Milwaukee gloves and those shiny anodized sockets, he should be able to fix anyting, right down to that slightly offset spark plug hole that he drilled.
He could use those sockets in the dark
by this stage -find a way to replace all with new if you have to beg borrow or steal -the labor is the tough part