The $22 Ford Maverick Trailer Tow Hitch Receiver Option!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 9 июн 2022
- If you ordered your 𝐅𝐨𝐫𝐝 𝐌𝐚𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐜𝐤 without a 𝐭𝐨𝐰 𝐡𝐢𝐭𝐜𝐡, this is a video you need to watch! The trailer hitch is one of the few options I would have wanted from the factory; however, after getting warned that such an option may delay delivery due to supply chain issues. I order my Maverick as what many people call a "work truck" or fleet vehicle. Yea, white and all!
For some time, the 𝐅𝐨𝐫𝐝 𝐎𝐄𝐌 𝐭𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐥𝐞𝐫 𝐡𝐢𝐭𝐜𝐡 #NZ6Z-17D826-C was the only option for the NEW Maverick to make things worse. It has been on backorder since before I ordered my truck. Things have changed, and several aftermarket options are now available as of June 2022. With that said, these are broken down into two cateries, cheaply built and overpriced. For example, a Curt Receiver Hitch for a 2001 Ford Ranger is $87. However, the average price for an aftermarket tow hitch for a 2022 Ford Maverick is around $260.00. That is not the end of it. Some of these 𝐚𝐟𝐭𝐞𝐫𝐦𝐚𝐫𝐤𝐞𝐭 𝐭𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐥𝐞𝐫 𝐡𝐢𝐭𝐜𝐡𝐞𝐬 𝐟𝐨𝐫 𝐭𝐡𝐞 𝟐𝟎𝟐𝟐 𝐅𝐨𝐫𝐝 𝐌𝐚𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐜𝐤 looks cheaply made. In the past, I have had many issues with some of these budget units craking and rusting after just a few months of use.
While shopping at 𝐇𝐚𝐫𝐛𝐨𝐫 𝐅𝐫𝐞𝐢𝐠𝐡𝐭 over Memorial Day weekend and with a 25% coupon on hand, I saw a universal fit Class III hitch receiver that caught my attention because it looks much like the one from the Bronco Sport. Some mechanics who have worked on the Bronco Sport and the Maverick have suggested that the one from the Bronco may fit with a little massaging. Since Ford's unit has been on backorder since before, I order my ruck. That is something I consider for a little bit. Anyhow, I ended up purchasing the Harbor Freight HAUL-MASTER 3500 Lb. Step Bumper Receiver item #69673, at $16 after applying the coupon, you just can't go wrong.
Now, it looks like this 𝐭𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐥𝐞𝐫 𝐡𝐢𝐭𝐜𝐡 is designed for U-bolts, which would have been the best choice. But my original idea was to weld it to the crash bar, much like the factory unit is! But then I started to think about trolls on RUclips crying like babies and saying I don't have a welder! Well, no problem, we'll use bolts instead. So, after sourcing 2X ½ inch by 4.5" GRADE 8 bolts, nuts, and washers, I took the Maverick apart.
𝐅𝐨𝐫𝐝 𝐌𝐚𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐜𝐤 𝐓𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐥𝐞𝐫 𝐇𝐢𝐭𝐜𝐡 𝐈𝐧𝐬𝐭𝐚𝐥𝐥𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧:
More than likely, and regardless of what tow hitch you choose for your Maverick, you will have to take the bumper cover off! That may sound like a monumental task, but please know it is a simple procedure. Info fact, I found that removing the dummy hitch cover was more troublesome than removing the bumper cover itself. Although you could remove the dummy hitch cover after removing the bumper cover, I think it is better while on the truck since you have more support.
Start by drilling out the two rivets at the bottom. Then with a flat screwdriver, pry the taps away from the dummy hitch cover while hitting it towards the front of the truck. With that out of the way, we need to remove 18X - 7 MM sheet metal style screws from the bottom of the bumper cover. Please start with the cover on the passenger side, which also has a plastic removable rivet nest to the alignment stud in the frame rail. Then the four screws in the fender well area, two on each side. With can then proceed to remove the tail lights. These are held in place with two 8 MM screws each. After removing the taillights, you can access the two hidden screws in the tail light cavities. These are 8MM as well. And there is one on each side. We then need to remove two more 8 MM screws on each side of the tailgate hiding between the tailgate and the bumper. I forgot to mention a plug for the tag light on the truck's right side in the video! It's no big deal and a simple, quick-release connector.
Before removing the crash bumper, disconnecting the exhaust hanger on the driver's side. For this, you need a 10 MM socket. To remove the crash bumper, you'll need a 19 MM socket. There are eight bolts, four per side, two on the horizontal axis, and two on the vertical axis on the outer side of the frame rails.
𝐅𝐨𝐫𝐝 𝐌𝐚𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐜𝐤 𝐓𝐫𝐚𝐢𝐥𝐞𝐫 𝐇𝐢𝐭𝐜𝐡 𝐈𝐧𝐬𝐭𝐚𝐥𝐥𝐚𝐭𝐢𝐨𝐧 𝐃𝐨𝐬 𝐚𝐧𝐝 𝐃𝐨𝐧'𝐭𝐬
#1 - If you don't have access to a welder and will be replicating my installation, consider purchasing the HAUL-MASTER, 5000 Lb. Step Bumper Receiver item #69670. This unit already has the holes in place, and I think it will be a much better fit even if you never tow 5000 lbs!
#2 - If you are ok with the Harbor Freight HAUL-MASTER 3500 Lb. Step Bumper Receiver item #69673 consider using galvanized or stainless U-Bolts. That will save you a ton of extra work, and it will probably be compatible to my installation from strength and 𝐭𝐨𝐰 𝐜𝐚𝐩𝐚𝐜𝐢𝐭𝐲point of view.
Thank you for watching, and stay tuned. A lot more 𝐅𝐨𝐫𝐝 𝐌𝐚𝐯𝐞𝐫𝐢𝐜𝐤 𝐜𝐨𝐧𝐭𝐞𝐧𝐭 is on its way!
#FordMaverick #TrailerHitchReceiver #TowHitch #Installation #OEM #Aftermarket #NZ6Z-17D826-C 
Хобби
![Eminem - Tobey (feat. Big Sean & Babytron) [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/9xn0OHEZZ8Q/mqdefault.jpg)
You are a craftsman Sir. You can never be to safe and redundant when doing work on a car .
... thank you! But understand that some people just don't get it!
Thank you for the video! It really helped me just now when I was installing the hitch. I went a slightly different route though and got a hitch receiver that slid onto the crash bar and then I welded it, pretty much identically to the way that the factory installed hitch looks like. Took me 5 hours total and now I just have to install the wiring. Thanks again!
... awesome! Thank you for sharing.
I like your explanations. Very thorough. Nothing wrong with over engineering any project.
...thank you! Much appreciated
Nice work mate. Great explanation.
Thanks! 👍
Thank you for taking the time to make this video for us noobs!
....You're very welcome! Thank you for stopping by!
@@CubanRedneck I browsed Tractor Supply, U-haul, West Marina, and other hardware stores online but am still at a loss as to the u-bolt size. Crash bar is 2x3"? So that's what the U-bolts need to clear but what about thickness of the bolts themselves? Do these come with weight ratings? I just want to make sure I get the right products before embarking on this. :-) Thank you sir!
... hello, the U-Bolts we used were purchase at a local marina, they are stainless and measure 2"X5". We also use nuts that have nylon inserts + locktite. They are standard boat trailers 1/2" Trailer U-Bolt for 2" Square Axle
Excellent video!
... Thank you very much, you are much welcome. Thank you, for the visit!
Thanks so much for that info,it beats $300 and I have all the tools for the job!👍👍
Glad to help, thank you for stopping by! 👍
@@CubanRedneck I’ll be checking your channel for sure,there’s so much I want to do to the Maverick,since I’m only using it for my bike rack,for towing I use my f250✅
... thanks! Same here, that wife has officially taken possession of the MAV! Nevertheless, I am looking forward to lowering it, changing the wheel & tires, upgrading the sound system, and hopefully improve highway MPG with intake, exhaust and few other mods.
The one I got was originally ordered with the 4k tow package. I towed a 2010 Chevrolet Malibu with a car dolly. I had no problems. It was definitely around 4-4300lbs. Truck pulled it no problem and it took a little.bit more effort to stop but seemed fine.. on a different day I had 35 boxes of 35-50lbs vinyl flooring handled it. Great little truck.
…. hey, thank you for stopping by. Without a doubt, the Maverick offers excellent value. And it is substantially more of a truck than car magazines and "experts" are willing to admit. As to tow capacity, I have no idea why people are triggered by that! Back in the 80s, my dad had a 72 Impala, to which he installed some Monroe air shocks, and we towed a 17-foot pop-camper all over the US. With oil coolers in place for both the tranny and engine and airbags to limit squatting, I think the Maverick can tow a lot more than its stated rating.
@@CubanRedneck I agree. It's done everything Ive asked . And I'm replacing subfloors in my house. The only thing I would be worried about is putting drywall in it, you would have to support the center of it somehow. Maybe a piece of plywood on the bottom or something like that.
… not sure what are your wood working capabilities. But I recently had to haul some 1" rigid fiberglass insulation for a friend who believe it or not own a Hyundai Santa Cruz and what we did was cut dados at the center of the front and rear 2X6 I installed in the bed pockets to fit a third 2X6, creating an "I" bean and center support for the sheets, and it worked very good! Not to mention it was a very quiet ride home!
Excellent! You know your Shit! Thank you. I am going to remove the hitch order from my Maverick order and maybe get mine into production sooner. Thank you for the Sharing. Will you be doing a similar video for the trailer wiring? Thanks again.
… lol, I don’t know shit. I am just old! BTW, know that I ordered my truck on December 2021! At the time, Ford was facing all kinds of issues with suppliers. I understand that they are new spray-on bed liners and hitch receiver suppliers! Unless it will impact the delivery time, I would probably stick to the OEM, although I am not happy with some of the surface rust I see in relatively new installs. As to the wiring, Yes, that video is recorded, but I need to sit down and edit it. Since IAN, the channel has been on the back burner but looking forward to catching back up to schedule.
@@CubanRedneck
Thank you. Ford did announce a Spray in bedliner with cargo management system for $499.00. I went ahead and added that to my order. I know that they have hitches available but the are reserving those for the XLT and Lariats. I have ordered an XL and with respect to the XL's it is still a Constraint. So I am still Shit out of luck when staying with the OEM. But probably won't matter much because the XL and the Hybrid are considered as Constraints for 2023 so I am screwed any way you approach it.
Thanks once again and keep up the great work.
Excellent explication again thanks
.... Thank you so much
nicely done.. can't wait to see the 7 pin adapter installation (if its coming)
Coming soon! ..thank you for watching!
@@CubanRedneck Thank you for this awesome video! It's really helpful for me as who forgot to add trailer hitch option when I ordered my truck. Do you still plan to make the 7 pin adapter installation video? Still looking forward to it!
@@gavintao1071 ... yes! Thank you for the visit!
Love your honesty😂 are you in Miami? Been here 30 years
… thank you, and thank you for stopping by. I am currently in Southwest Florida, Punta Gorda, to be more exact, but looking to move back to the 305! Life is a bit boring out here, and things haven’t been the same since IAN! Don't a strange!
Thank you so much for this video!!! I love my Maverick but am craving a tow hitch receiver that doesn't break the bank and also enjoy learning more DIY skills! Am I understanding correctly that instead of drilling into the crash bar, receiver and hot rolled steel piece, you can just take a U-bolt that wraps around the crash bar and bolts through the pre-drilled holes of the receiver? Sorry if this is a stupid question, I'm a beginner at this stuff but eager to learn! Thank you so much for putting this video together.
... hello, there! Thank you for stopping by! ..and Yes, after doing a few of these, U-Bolts are the way to go. Mine was some what of an experiment, I had no idea what to expect and over compensated to what I found. I just email a friend to get some pics from him, on his U-Bolt installation and will be posting those on my blog (CubanRedneck.Com) in the next 24 hrs.
... hello, I have added some pics to the bottom of the blog, please take a look - cubanredneck.com/ford-maverick-trailer-hitch/
@@CubanRedneckgoing the route your buddy went, do you happen to know the size of u-bolts he used? Thank you!
@@Pimponablimpeatingshrimpdid you have the size you went with by chance? Going that route as well
This is so helpful! Thanks so much sir! Any recommendation for a metal saw strong enough to cut that hot rolled steel? I don't have an air compressor for air tools :-( Is a 850W 300 RPM drill strong enough to cut through the receiver, steel piece and crash bar?
… hello, thank you for stopping by. IMO - when it comes to drilling or cutting, the drill bit and or cutting wheel are the key. I have managed to cut and drill super hard things at a race track hundreds of miles from home with primitive tools and an acceptable level of success good enough to get me through the podium. So, I recommend always investing in good drill bits, and for the little cutting that needs to be done here, a Dremel and some patience will suffice.
... I am sorry I had not realized that the blog that accompanies the video was not public. Please take a look at the pic at the bottom of the page - cubanredneck.com/ford-maverick-trailer-hitch/
@@CubanRedneck Thank you! I saw your comments on the 5,000 lb receiver and the u-bolts. But that receiver still requires two holes drilled in the back, is that right? Thank you for your time!
...yes, we drilled one hole on the back side, and the other one was already in the part. As previously mentioned it is not easy to see on the pick on the blog, but the U-Bolts are at a slight angle to reduce the play between it and the crash bar. The stainless U-Bolts were purchase at a local marine, and they are standard 2" boat trailer axel type measuring 2"X5". We also use nuts that have nylon inserts + locktite
grasias por el tip ahorre mucho dinero y pude remorcar mi trailer de 20' y 2500 lb desde virginia hasta miami sin ningun problema lo recomiendo
… Yo no sé cuál es el problema con los locos aquí pero esto es algo que he hecho 20 o 30 veces. Yo crecí en los cayos, en un barrio de pescadores donde todo el mundo tenía botes pero nadie tenía dinero y usar este tipo de bola era común. Yo también e esta halando mi Mako 19 que esta cerca de 3000 lbs. con el Maverick sin ningún problema. Espero añadirle un cooler de aceite pare el motor y otro para la transmisión como precaución, y viajes largos pero eso es todo. Gracias por comentar!
That is a really great video. Could you please share the link for the hitch and the U metal part where to purchase?
… thank you! I had the piece of metal on hand, and If I recall, I think I got it at Tractor Supply Company. Although Lowe's, Home Depot, and Ace Hardware have it in stock, I suggest Googling *"1-inch hot rolled steel angle"* and identifying a supplier in your area since these can vary in price quite a bit. The trailer hitch receiver I use came from HarborFreight.Com item # can be either 69673 or 67159, depending on the location.
@@CubanRedneck Thanks, i meant the U metal you mount the hitch receiver. I forgot to add this when build my vehicle since it will take longer than without hitch added. Now i have the vehicle so I have to add the hitch and wire by my self. Does the U metal you mount the receiver come from ford when they build it? Also, are you going to have a video planned demo the wiring? Thanks
… hi, I am not quite getting your question, but I think you are talking about U-BOLTS. I suggest searching for a Tractor Supply Company or West Marine in your area. Many RV places and stores that have trailer stuff like U-Haul have them. If that fails, consider - www.google.com/search?q=2.250+X+5+U-BOLTS-Near-Me
That said, if you are talking about installing the Ford OEM unit you buy at the dealer, you don't need U-Bolts. If you are using the same trailer hitch, I now have on my truck. You are going to need two - 3/8 X 2.5-inch X 5-inch U-Bolts.
As to the wiring, Yes, I will be making a video on that. The parts are ordered and expected next week.
Any chance of adding an additional reverse light along with the 7 pin adaptor? Better and brighter back up lights are always nice. Oh, BTW, nothing wrong with over kill.
... Yes! I'll have that video out soon. I have not found the reverse light I am looing for. Thank you for stopping by!
@@CubanRedneck following!
Thank so much for this video!! I was wondering if I can just remove the small plastic dummy hitch cover to use U-bolts method without taking down the whole bumper cover. Has anyone done it this way? Thank you for your attention.😀
… thank you for stopping by. I dropped the crash bar because I was exploring my options. And yes, some have reported using the u-bolt method without removing the crash bar. For full disclosure, I have not done it! But IMO, worth a try!
Do you have to drill holes to install the hitch? I see there are several holes at 5:11. Are they not the holes for hitch installation? Can I avoid drilling holes if I choose the $29.99 one you showed at 1:30? (I don't need to over build because I don't really need to use the hitch to tow anything, but only to install a extender rack)
….. hey Gavin thank you for stopping by. The $29.99 hitch is a slightly different and perhaps a better choice. With that said, there is no provision to attach the receiver to the bumper guard. The factory one is welded but U-bolts will more than suffice as I mentioned in the video.
@@CubanRedneck thank you so much for the explanation, sir!
Great video!!! One question: If the max trailer weight I can tow with my hybrid maverick is 2,000 lb, is there any advantage with the 5,000 haul master with the ubolt installation over the 3,500 one? Can you explain how it fits better?
... hello, thank you for stopping by. No, it is just a matter of how it fits with the chainrings at the bottom rather than on the front. There are a few pics on my blog at the bottom of the page, please take a look - cubanredneck.com/ford-maverick-trailer-hitch/
Thanks so much! Which Ubolt size did you use? Are there any restrictions in regards to tightening it around the crash bar? Will that not over time slide to the left and right with friction without any bolts going directly through the crash bar?
So with the 5,000 lb receiver, you still need to drill 2 holes in the receiver, right?
... the stainless U-Bolt we got at a local marina, and the nuts have nylon inserts + locktite. I don't think they are going anywhere. Besides, these are the same U-Bolts holding boat trailer axes, and I have never seen one backup in 50 years. As to the holes, yes, we drilled one hole on the back side, and the other one was already in the part. Also, it is stuff to see, but the U-Bolts are at a slight angle to reduce the play between it and the crash bar.
@@CubanRedneck thank you so much for the explanations! So their not perfect square ubolts? Are their inside diameters 2 1/8 or exactly 2”?
So the $100.00 hitch I added is what made it take 10 months to build and ship my Maverick. I knew it.
… yeap, that's what I was told! Apparently, there were supply issues with many of the initially chosen suppliers. Some vehicles were shipped without it and installed at the dealer on a later day. An entirely new company is providing the current unit. By the way, there was a similar fiasco with the spray-on bed liners, resulting in a recall.
What should I do with the $30 version? It has lateral holes but no holes in the back like the cheaper one
.... on my friend's truck we drill through the crash bar, added a piece of 1/4 X 1.5 inch flat bar on the top and it is help in place with two .500 inch Grade 8 bolts, washers, and nuts. Sorry, don't have pics of that install.
... on the other hand, if you already bought U-Bolts just drill the receiver!
Do I need to remove the spare tire first? I got all the bolts out and I can’t pull the bumper cover off at all.
... yes, please watch the video.
Funny you say that. I am probably half of your views on this video, I have watched dozens if not hundreds of times trying to figure out what I missed
... contact me via my website, give me your # - cubanredneck.com/
I'm sure I could get all of those bolts off. Getting them back on though....
…hey Glenn, thank you for stopping by. Trust me. It is not as complicated as it looks. I recently did an OEM part, install it took us 20 minutes.
If I bought the 5,000 pound hitch receiver, would any of the steps for installation been any different? Thank you in advance
... hey, thanks for the visit, and yes, absolutely... U-Bolts is all you need! See the blog for pics - cubanredneck.com/ford-maverick-trailer-hitch/
Mine was the first I did, and somewhat of an experiment. I have done 3-4 after that, all with 5K LBS receiver and 2X5 U-Bolts from a local marina.
@CubanRedneck Thank you so much! Other than the u-bolts being 2x5, is there anything else I should be looking for? I was told the u-bolts need to be made by a certain material so it doesn't break while towing
... any 1/2" boat trailer U-Bolts should do. Ask for a 2X5 - 1/2 inch U-Bolts for 2" square axle. That ones we found locally are rated for a 7000 lbs load
So, I noticed on the plate of the hitch receiver, an extra hole needs to be drilled to make a place for the u-bolt to go through. Is there a certain type of drill bit you used? Was it challenging to do? Thank you
... not at all! (with a new bit from Harbor Freight & WD40) Hook one end of the U-Bolt on the pre-existing hole. Turn it towards the center until it touches the wall of the crash bar, mark, and drill. This is to eliminate the slack of the U-Bolt. (They are not TRUE 2")
Harness brake light!!!! tutorial
... it is recorded. I haven't had a chance to edit it. I'll give it priority next week. Thank you for your support.
Hi, how long were the bolts?
... hey, thank you for the visit. All the details are in the description. The long bolts are 4.5" but know that since publishing this video, I have helped a couple of friends with their installation. Trailer U-Bolts are the way to go. My installation was somewhat of an experiment, for lack of a better word.
@@CubanRedneck thanks! Appreciate it.
I got the 30 dollar one right now, I really have to take off all those parts just to put the trailer hitch receiver on??
… hey how's it going? Not sure what you mean by all these parts! All you have to remove is the bumper cover. If you use U-bolts as I recommended in the video you can cut the work by half if not more. However, the Maverick is a unibody vehicle there is no "bumper" like a body on chassis vehicle. The hitch needs to get bolted or welded to the crash bar.
@@CubanRedneck oh okay they sell those Ubolts at auto part stores ?
.. consider a marina of place the deals with trailers or RVs, they are more likely to have better quality. But if everything else fails I guess NAPA will do.
What size Ubolts you recommend?
.. the crash bar measures 2" X 3.5" ... anything that clears that will work but you probably want a little extra like a 2X5, unless you don't have means to cut the ends, in that case a 2X4 or better yet a 2X4.5 will work. Know that this are internal dimensions!
Well, I wouldnt put a very heavy tongue weight trailer on that hitch.
!
… thank you for stopping by! I am unsure what you mean: the truck or the hitch! As to the truck, it is a 2.0 EcoBoost FWD max tow capacity 2000 lbs. and 500 lbs. at the hitch! As to the hitch, I had the same model and make on my Silverado for over 10 years and more than 20,000 miles of towing with boats that severely exceeded its rated capacity! No issue! Bias and lack of engineering background can make people blind. At the end of the day, they are *ALL* made by the same Chinese guy in the same Chinese factory.
Factory option was $100 and had nothing to do with the delays but good job nonetheless
…thanks and trust me, that is something I wanted to order from the factory, but I was pressed for time after totaling my wife's SUV, and I was told it might add to the delivery time back in December 2021. With that said, no regrets. I am enjoying doing all the upgrades myself. The cruise was the only thing of concern, and that was pretty easy.
I regret so much now when I realize I forgot to add this option
I don't know why your worried about surfce rust, that truck will be in the junk yard way before rust will be an issue.
… thank you for stopping by! …and since you have such insight about the future, perhaps you should consider quitting your job and playing the lottery instead!
Wow. Let’s backyard engineer something that could risk your life, the lives of others, possibly ruin your car and open you up to massive lawsuits to save $250. You just spent at least $20k on a new car and you can’t spend $300 to be safe. Genius!
… brother, that is the whole point! $300 or $3000 does not mean you are safe or safer! Just look at the recall on the spray-on bed liner. But then again, after reading the comment once again, and given the lack of engineering IQ you have shown - it is obvious you don’t understand what I did here. Some people don’t know how to do an oil change. Therefore they have to pay! Nothing wrong with that!
@@CubanRedneck My point is that an actual aftermarket hitch is less than $300 shipped. While it may or may not be better than what you came up with, it at least passed some engineering analysis and is marketed as a hitch for a Maverick. If it fails and causes disaster, at least it is the hitch manufacturer's fault.
... sir, with all due respect, stick to whatever it is you do for a living. I have built motorcycles that go from 0 to 200+ MPH in 6 sec. and vehicles that go 0 to 300+ MPH in 4 sec. without a single failure. If you understood anything about bolt grades and you took a closer look at my installation, you would understand that this is way overbuilt!
It is because I have purchased those over-the-counter $300 receives in the past, just to be completely disappointed with the build quality and engineering that opted for this option. Furthermore, the 4000 lbs rated FORD OEM Bronco Sport Receiver Hitch - accessories.ford.com/products/bronco-2021-trailer-hitch-assembly ... is pretty much the same thing I did! I guess you better call *FORD* before they "cause a disaster."
@@CubanRedneck I wish you and your viewers the best of luck.
What a party pooper haha! This guy is helping people out who aren't afraid to get their own hands a little dirty. This solution is probably a lot safer than trusting some Ford assembly guy.