Excellent video Hoff! Stoked to hear your thoughts on this topic. Always cool to hear how other people feel the differences and weigh the pros and cons.
I have been on carbon rims for over 10 years now even though every bike I buy starts out on aluminum. Reason why? The carbon wheelsets just hold up. They are practically maintenance free. I'm over 200lbs and I'm a aggressive rider. I destroy aluminum rims and they constantly need truing. My advice: run the O.E.M. wheelset until they are beat up THEN make the upgrade. If you are a lighter or slower rider and don't destroy wheels then stick with what came on your bike.
I Have 35mmSpanks and Im a Light and Smooth Rider . I dont really think the 1500$ will be warranted for expensive Rims .... like you said wear out the Stockers then go CF . I Ride a CF Warden so I LOVE CF . I basically have 1 yr Riding a Modern Enduro 😎 Ride Vancouver . Fromme In The AM 😎
Maintenance free is another great point. My alloy wheels always need to be trued. I don’t dent them a lot, but always jumping and whiling the bike sideways with throws them out of alignment.
@@lg784359 sometimes the fastest or funnest lines are not the "good" ones. Like I said, if you are a slow rider and pick your lines around rocks your aluminum rims are probably fine.
I just picked up the roval carbon SL front and hd rear on sale. $600 off. I’m keeping the aluminums as back up. Lifetime warranty on these carbons makes me happy.
I recently upgraded to Roval carbon wheels for my Epic Evo and they're awesome. For my usual loop, I'm about 3-4 minutes faster and it's a lot more fun to ride now. I only regret not getting them earlier!
What is worth it is upgrading wheels. Regardless of if you fork out for carbon hoops, or stick with alloy, wheels are THE MOST important component of your bike. A high quality wheel set will transform any bike. If you love riding bikes, it should be the first thing you consider upgrading.
That depends. Yes upgrade your wheels if they are total crap. But if you already have a good set, an upgrade may just be incremental gain, while something like a front fork or drive train upgrade from entry level to decent tier can be well worth it. I think the best immediate upgrade for an OEM part are tires because you can spec those that match the terrain you ride. And they’re Inexpensive compared other parts. Also, most OEM tires are the cheaper version with the harder compound (Maxxis is notorious for this).
@@j.l.5966 if your bike has an entry level fork or drivetrain, I can guarantee the wheels it came with are crap. The only bikes that come with half decent oem wheels, come with high end components. Wheels are the heart and soul of a bike. They are the single most important component. Wheels and tyres are what you literally roll along on. They affect every aspect of riding. You don't need $2k+ carbon wheels, just decent quality rims on decent quality hubs with good quality tyres.
I tried DT Swiss XMC 1501 carbon wheels on my Santa Cruz Chameleon hardtail and they completely ruined the ride. Harsh no matter how low I went on tire psi and completely transformed my hardtail to a bike that was less fun to ride. I rode them for about 9 months and went back to DT Swiss M1700s and literally could not be happier. My Chameleon is back to the fun hardtail it should be. I have a video on my channel on my experience.
I had those stock bontrager wheels on my slash. However, the rear rim dented incredibly easily. I just got a set of hunt enduro wide wheels for 400 and they felt miles better, much stiffer and composed in the back but the front was compliant for cornering. I think a good set of alloys are the way to go on a budget.
Line comps are terrible, we have replace 6 of these to DTSwiss 511 and 541. If you want to keep the linecomp healthy you need to run high tire pressure 😢
NOBL TR37’S That is all I run on my DH bike and “trail” bike. I’m 220 and beat the living crap out of my wheels. I live less than 10 miles from 2 lift access parks. Western North Carolina. So rocks , rocks and did I mention rocks. Roots and rocks. Carbon stay true and you don’t really have to worry about them. Plus NOBL has lifetime warranty.
@@JaredHoff worth the cost. I think they are on sale with industry hubs or dt350 for 1200 or 1400. Not sure. But that’s the TR37’s. I’ve tried a few other carbon sets and sold them. Nobl had always stayed true and the customer service is top notch (if you ever need them). Well and full disclosure. My brothers wife works for nobl so I get a substantial discount. That being said I would still pay full pop without a deal. I race DH and have NEVER fu@ked a rim.
World wide cycles is awesome. I shop with them all the time. I think those wheels are awesome that they sent you. See if they will cut you a deal and keep them. Those wheels will pay themselves off trust me. I have broken so many alloy wheels and flat spotted to where you can not bend them back. I hope you keep those. Glad you are working with WWC love those guys.
I was sold to the concept since the exploders aka the spinergy, I had them on my amp design in the late 1990's then I left the nest, had birdies of my own and I was broke for the next 20 yrs. I just started looking again 🎉 Geez they're still "not affordable" things don't change that much 😂
I shall be riding my Bontrager Comp aluminum wheels for years to come because they are one of the last affordable decent NON-boost 29" wheels still available. Thanks Bontrager!
@@geraldhenrickson7472 you have to check out Hunt Wheels. I made a video on them. Check it out on my channel. Are These Bike Mods Actually Worth It? ruclips.net/video/GktGrjLaDfw/видео.html
Also note the Bontragar line comp 30 is a 28 spoke Rim that dents pretty easy, and has noticeable flex compared to a good high end Aluminum 32 spoke rims.
True! I’d like to do another version of this video with a high-end alloy versus high-end carbon. I have a set of EN300 industry nine alloy wheels and I’m trying to get a set of Berd Carbon wheels,,, but they’re expensive so it’s not easy. Hopefully I’ll make that video. Thank for the comment 👍
Those guys from World wide cyclery are the best of the best, i once asked them for a couple of stickers and they sent it to me, i put them everywhere hehehe.
So the Bontrager Line Comp is $600 but if you got their Line Elite which is the carbon model they would be right around $900 which is a more comparable wheel to the aluminum ones you are already running but in a carbon hoop and a more affordable price point. Good entry to carbon wheels doesn't have to be $1600 because at that point you may as well be looking at Nobl wheels and an Onyx hub.
Good points for sure. I definitely want to do the Bontrager line versus comp, BUT was stoked the guys from WC let me demo these. Can’t thank them enough.
@@JaredHoff I just picked up a set of the elites in a 27.5. Still waiting on parts to finish my build so haven't gotten to test these specifically but have ridden them on other bikes before. Only negative I have heard is a hub issue, but the hub tends to last a few years before that happens and I am planning to have a backup hub in hand to replace it before that point anyways.
I am not sure there is another upgrade that would make you that much faster or enjoy the ride as much. But like you said, the price of entry is not cheap!
@@JaredHoff I agree. Been biking semi-seriously since 2004 and it is amazing how good bikes are today. I will say that I prefer Shimano brakes over sram.
My biggest fear with carbon is rock damage. I'm looking at my aluminum wheels and I can see where I've made impacts in the past and just scared that carbon rather than getting a little rash is going to crack.
I hear ya and carbon wheels are so expensive. I do think getting the right wheels and tires makes a HUGE difference, but a high quality set of alloy wheels, like industry nine, could be a good way to go as well.
As far as pricing, you have to factor in the hubs and spokes with that $1,600 ... A carbon WAO Union rim is $350 and a DT Swiss EX 511 or FR 541 is $150, so you're talking about a difference of only $400. When you factor in the warranty, it only takes a couple bent alloy rims for you to break even, so it's a little more up front, but you're getting a better rim, and if you're someone like me who was going through a lot of alloy rims, you might even come out ahead and save money in the long run (plus going the investment route makes it easier to convince your wife if needed, lol).
I've had 4 rear bontrager cardon wheels in 4 years, first one lasted 2 years and and was just out of warranty but trek replaced it for me, which was very good of them, the second lasted 6 months and I started to break spokes so the trek store replaced it again, third wheel lasted 18 months so back to trek, it turned out the wheel they had put on was an ex-demo and there was no warranty, not happy with this I was going to go back to alloy but trek gave me a diccount on an upgraded cardon wheel, a tuffer one, it also has 2 years warranty on it, all the other wheels Ive ever had on all my other bikes have been alloy, my suggestion have a carbon but also have a spare alloy in the shed, and make sure you've got warranty
I kinda sway away from alloy as and have my trusty Reynolds Black label trail wide. They have styed true for 4 seasons. And as i have Sapim CX-Ray spokes - the spoketension war pretty much on point as well. Things to stay away from it yoy just want to ride. Sof alloy rims with round straight pull spokes... If anything I could go for a heavier alloy rim, J-bend bladed DT SWISSS COMP spokes 👍
I watched a friend destroy a DT SWISS wheel!!! We both hit the same rock getting pinch flats back-to-back (crazy, right!). Anyway, my Caron wheels had no damage. His alloy DT Swiss however… dented so bad it was unusable 😬 That was probably just a one off scenario, BUT I’ll never ride DT Swiss now LOL
@@JaredHoff i don't thik using some DT Swiss ex511 or FR541 is a hazard. But cheaper rims I have not had mucg luck with. E1900 are bad and 1700 need constant looking after. The comp spokes are sturdy AF - but also weigh a lot. Good setup would be hope hubs or DT 350s with ex511/Fr541 with j bend spokes i your choice 👍 Newmens alloy rims are legit as well 🤘
the thing about carbon wheels is that if you ride hard they become the wiser financial decision. I went through 3 solid name brand alloy wheels before i got carbon. The cost of replacing an alloy rim once a month adds up to more money than a carbon wheel very quickly.
@@JaredHoffi have the bontrager line elite carbon rims and i weight in at 100kg. I hammer them and the don’t even blink. Huge upgrade i made from aluminum but dit it when i bought the bike new so got a huge discount. Trek has them on special now with their sale
I have elite line carbon wheels on my dlash and love them. Def better than aluminium to my view. But difference aint like astronomical. I would say its more of a weight thing and carbon feels a bit smooter on technical lines
Definitely 👍 I need to make a follow up video talking about rotational weight. The weight in the wheels makes such a big difference. You can really tell when testing against a heavy wheelset like I did on my Polygon N9 upgrade video.
Excellent video Jared. That price point is nuts. I'm riding a Trek Fuel EX 9.7 with alloy Bontrager Line Comp 30's that are picking up 'dings' left/right/center....would be curious what you'd recommend as an affordable alloy upgrade that can take more of a beating than the Comp 30's.
Oh man! Usually I recommend inserts if you’re denying that much. Carbon might be the right way to go for you, or alloy with inserts. Once you are damaging wheels,,, it changes the math because one good set of wheel might cost more up front but over the life of the wheel it will save you money.
I just purchased a used Trek Slash 9.8 XT for $3,000. It was really clean and only a year old. It was a little more than I wanted to spend but I wanted to move up to a 29er. It came with carbon wheels, but I cannot tell the difference between the carbon and aluminum wheel sets.
I’m thinking about switching from 29’s to 27.5’s on my pivot 429. Have never really gotten use to the 29’s. They just feel like they are harder to jump with and handling isn’t as good in the tight twisty stuff. So would a high end carbon 29er solve these issues or should I switch to 27.5’s. Thinking about going with berds. Might as well go all out if I’m biting this bullet
Carbon will help a bit, but you may also want to go mullet with a 27.5” in the rear. That’s the best balance if you’re looking for a more playful setup. Does the Pivot 429 convert to mullet? I’m always hesitant when bikes aren’t design to run a mullet setup.
Once you’ve upgrade the main components: handle bar, stem, headset, grips, flat pedals, brakes (if needed)… you’ll eventually get carbon wheels (lifetime warranty)… so I’d say get the carbon wheels 😂
lol damn. right after you got done talking about how other comparisons weren't as good cuz they didn't have the same tires or compounds, you mention that you have different widths and the carbon rims are a lot beefier. so now you don't know if it's the wider rims you're feeling, or the carbon
I definitely was doing this with the budget I had and tried my best to get comparable wheels, but I hear ya. I’m now running a set of high-end alloy industry nine wheels (EN300). I want to get a set of carbon i9 wheels that are exactly same except carbon. That would make the test a lot better.
I have a bike with carbon and a bike without. I could swap them around to feel the difference, but i’m way too lazy to change the rubber. I have fun no matter what I ride. “Worth the money” is subjective, and if my bike wasn’t dialed, carbon wheels wouldn’t be my starting point for upgrading.
Ufff, 1000$ to be 2 seconds faster on trail. Not bloody worth. That's a joke. Ok, if they were like 300$ more expensive, sure, maybe. But fkin 1000$? Nah...
That’s kind of what I ended up deciding. But there’s a lot more than just added speed. They really do make the bike fun to ride. I’ll get them someday, but not right now.
@@JaredHoff I get your point, when I used speed as comparison for difference, I didn't want to say speed is what only matters, but it is only thing you can objectively describe as a result. I know there is a lot in subjective perception and (stiffer and stable riding and all that), which makes it more fun and more enyjoyable to ride, but still is 1000$ more enjoyable? :D
Excellent video Hoff! Stoked to hear your thoughts on this topic. Always cool to hear how other people feel the differences and weigh the pros and cons.
Thanks for helping me make this video. I was really surprised how quickly I could tell the difference between carbon and alloy 👍
I have been on carbon rims for over 10 years now even though every bike I buy starts out on aluminum. Reason why? The carbon wheelsets just hold up. They are practically maintenance free. I'm over 200lbs and I'm a aggressive rider. I destroy aluminum rims and they constantly need truing. My advice: run the O.E.M. wheelset until they are beat up THEN make the upgrade. If you are a lighter or slower rider and don't destroy wheels then stick with what came on your bike.
I Have 35mmSpanks and Im a Light and Smooth Rider . I dont really think the 1500$ will be warranted for expensive Rims .... like you said wear out the Stockers then go CF . I Ride a CF Warden so I LOVE CF . I basically have 1 yr Riding a Modern Enduro 😎 Ride Vancouver . Fromme In The AM 😎
Maintenance free is another great point. My alloy wheels always need to be trued. I don’t dent them a lot, but always jumping and whiling the bike sideways with throws them out of alignment.
Not If you take good lines :v I've been ridding 10 years also and I've seem more broken carbon rims in my time than allu. My trails are super rocky
@@lg784359 sometimes the fastest or funnest lines are not the "good" ones. Like I said, if you are a slow rider and pick your lines around rocks your aluminum rims are probably fine.
I just picked up the roval carbon SL front and hd rear on sale. $600 off. I’m keeping the aluminums as back up. Lifetime warranty on these carbons makes me happy.
I recently upgraded to Roval carbon wheels for my Epic Evo and they're awesome. For my usual loop, I'm about 3-4 minutes faster and it's a lot more fun to ride now. I only regret not getting them earlier!
Faster and MORE FUN! That’s what it’s all about. I really hope I can work out a deal to keep these WTB wheels.
What is worth it is upgrading wheels. Regardless of if you fork out for carbon hoops, or stick with alloy, wheels are THE MOST important component of your bike. A high quality wheel set will transform any bike. If you love riding bikes, it should be the first thing you consider upgrading.
I totally agree. It’s such an expensive upgrade and that’s why I always stuck with my OEM wheels, but it totally transforms the way a bike rides.
That depends. Yes upgrade your wheels if they are total crap. But if you already have a good set, an upgrade may just be incremental gain, while something like a front fork or drive train upgrade from entry level to decent tier can be well worth it. I think the best immediate upgrade for an OEM part are tires because you can spec those that match the terrain you ride. And they’re Inexpensive compared other parts. Also, most OEM tires are the cheaper version with the harder compound (Maxxis is notorious for this).
@@j.l.5966 if your bike has an entry level fork or drivetrain, I can guarantee the wheels it came with are crap. The only bikes that come with half decent oem wheels, come with high end components.
Wheels are the heart and soul of a bike. They are the single most important component. Wheels and tyres are what you literally roll along on. They affect every aspect of riding.
You don't need $2k+ carbon wheels, just decent quality rims on decent quality hubs with good quality tyres.
I tried DT Swiss XMC 1501 carbon wheels on my Santa Cruz Chameleon hardtail and they completely ruined the ride. Harsh no matter how low I went on tire psi and completely transformed my hardtail to a bike that was less fun to ride. I rode them for about 9 months and went back to DT Swiss M1700s and literally could not be happier. My Chameleon is back to the fun hardtail it should be. I have a video on my channel on my experience.
I hope you were able to resell those wheels. I’ll have to check that video out 👍
It would be interesting to compare the DT Swiss carbons to another set of carbon. Reserves or whatever.
Solution: buy a fully.
I went from Flow S1’s to WR1 Factions and the difference was incredible, so much more precise and they spin up so quick. Never going back!
Heck yeah. Getting the bright wheels makes such a big difference
This is the second product comparison that I watch from Jared and I have to admit that the really knows how to do these comparisons. Lovely work.
Thank you tons. That means a lot!
It’s all about trying to make good content that helps fellow riders make the right decisions 👍
I had those stock bontrager wheels on my slash. However, the rear rim dented incredibly easily. I just got a set of hunt enduro wide wheels for 400 and they felt miles better, much stiffer and composed in the back but the front was compliant for cornering. I think a good set of alloys are the way to go on a budget.
For sure 👍
Line comps are terrible, we have replace 6 of these to DTSwiss 511 and 541. If you want to keep the linecomp healthy you need to run high tire pressure 😢
NOBL TR37’S
That is all I run on my DH bike and “trail” bike. I’m 220 and beat the living crap out of my wheels. I live less than 10 miles from 2 lift access parks. Western North Carolina. So rocks , rocks and did I mention rocks. Roots and rocks. Carbon stay true and you don’t really have to worry about them. Plus NOBL has lifetime warranty.
I’ve always wanted to try NOBL wheels 👍
@@JaredHoff worth the cost. I think they are on sale with industry hubs or dt350 for 1200 or 1400. Not sure. But that’s the TR37’s. I’ve tried a few other carbon sets and sold them. Nobl had always stayed true and the customer service is top notch (if you ever need them). Well and full disclosure. My brothers wife works for nobl so I get a substantial discount. That being said I would still pay full pop without a deal. I race DH and have NEVER fu@ked a rim.
World wide cycles is awesome. I shop with them all the time. I think those wheels are awesome that they sent you. See if they will cut you a deal and keep them. Those wheels will pay themselves off trust me. I have broken so many alloy wheels and flat spotted to where you can not bend them back. I hope you keep those. Glad you are working with WWC love those guys.
So glad to have support from WC. I’m still waiting to talk with them about working out a deal.
@@JaredHoff 🔥🔥❤️
I was sold to the concept since the exploders aka the spinergy, I had them on my amp design in the late 1990's then I left the nest, had birdies of my own and I was broke for the next 20 yrs. I just started looking again 🎉
Geez they're still "not affordable" things don't change that much 😂
Yeah, price is the real deciding factor.
I shall be riding my Bontrager Comp aluminum wheels for years to come because they are one of the last affordable decent NON-boost 29" wheels still available. Thanks Bontrager!
@@geraldhenrickson7472 you have to check out Hunt Wheels. I made a video on them. Check it out on my channel.
Are These Bike Mods Actually Worth It?
ruclips.net/video/GktGrjLaDfw/видео.html
Also note the Bontragar line comp 30 is a 28 spoke Rim that dents pretty easy, and has noticeable flex compared to a good high end Aluminum 32 spoke rims.
True! I’d like to do another version of this video with a high-end alloy versus high-end carbon.
I have a set of EN300 industry nine alloy wheels and I’m trying to get a set of Berd Carbon wheels,,, but they’re expensive so it’s not easy.
Hopefully I’ll make that video. Thank for the comment 👍
Those guys from World wide cyclery are the best of the best, i once asked them for a couple of stickers and they sent it to me, i put them everywhere hehehe.
Heck yeah 👍 Amazing dudes
So the Bontrager Line Comp is $600 but if you got their Line Elite which is the carbon model they would be right around $900 which is a more comparable wheel to the aluminum ones you are already running but in a carbon hoop and a more affordable price point. Good entry to carbon wheels doesn't have to be $1600 because at that point you may as well be looking at Nobl wheels and an Onyx hub.
Good points for sure. I definitely want to do the Bontrager line versus comp, BUT was stoked the guys from WC let me demo these. Can’t thank them enough.
@@JaredHoff I just picked up a set of the elites in a 27.5. Still waiting on parts to finish my build so haven't gotten to test these specifically but have ridden them on other bikes before. Only negative I have heard is a hub issue, but the hub tends to last a few years before that happens and I am planning to have a backup hub in hand to replace it before that point anyways.
I admire honesty
Always 👍
I am not sure there is another upgrade that would make you that much faster or enjoy the ride as much. But like you said, the price of entry is not cheap!
Bikes are so good these days. You really don’t “have” to upgrade them. BUT it’s always fun doing it 👍
@@JaredHoff I agree. Been biking semi-seriously since 2004 and it is amazing how good bikes are today. I will say that I prefer Shimano brakes over sram.
Super sick review bro.
Thank you 👍
My biggest fear with carbon is rock damage. I'm looking at my aluminum wheels and I can see where I've made impacts in the past and just scared that carbon rather than getting a little rash is going to crack.
I hear ya and carbon wheels are so expensive. I do think getting the right wheels and tires makes a HUGE difference, but a high quality set of alloy wheels, like industry nine, could be a good way to go as well.
For xc that's no question, carbon for life! 😎🤟🏻
For sure!
As far as pricing, you have to factor in the hubs and spokes with that $1,600 ... A carbon WAO Union rim is $350 and a DT Swiss EX 511 or FR 541 is $150, so you're talking about a difference of only $400. When you factor in the warranty, it only takes a couple bent alloy rims for you to break even, so it's a little more up front, but you're getting a better rim, and if you're someone like me who was going through a lot of alloy rims, you might even come out ahead and save money in the long run (plus going the investment route makes it easier to convince your wife if needed, lol).
Great points 👍
I've had 4 rear bontrager cardon wheels in 4 years, first one lasted 2 years and and was just out of warranty but trek replaced it for me, which was very good of them, the second lasted 6 months and I started to break spokes so the trek store replaced it again, third wheel lasted 18 months so back to trek, it turned out the wheel they had put on was an ex-demo and there was no warranty, not happy with this I was going to go back to alloy but trek gave me a diccount on an upgraded cardon wheel, a tuffer one, it also has 2 years warranty on it, all the other wheels Ive ever had on all my other bikes have been alloy, my suggestion have a carbon but also have a spare alloy in the shed, and make sure you've got warranty
Great advice 👍
I kinda sway away from alloy as and have my trusty Reynolds Black label trail wide. They have styed true for 4 seasons. And as i have Sapim CX-Ray spokes - the spoketension war pretty much on point as well.
Things to stay away from it yoy just want to ride. Sof alloy rims with round straight pull spokes...
If anything I could go for a heavier alloy rim, J-bend bladed DT SWISSS COMP spokes 👍
I watched a friend destroy a DT SWISS wheel!!! We both hit the same rock getting pinch flats back-to-back (crazy, right!). Anyway, my Caron wheels had no damage. His alloy DT Swiss however… dented so bad it was unusable 😬 That was probably just a one off scenario, BUT I’ll never ride DT Swiss now LOL
@@JaredHoff i don't thik using some DT Swiss ex511 or FR541 is a hazard. But cheaper rims I have not had mucg luck with. E1900 are bad and 1700 need constant looking after. The comp spokes are sturdy AF - but also weigh a lot.
Good setup would be hope hubs or DT 350s with ex511/Fr541 with j bend spokes i your choice 👍
Newmens alloy rims are legit as well 🤘
You could go with elite or hunt wheels as well or just upgrade to better hubs
Some good opinions 👍
the thing about carbon wheels is that if you ride hard they become the wiser financial decision. I went through 3 solid name brand alloy wheels before i got carbon. The cost of replacing an alloy rim once a month adds up to more money than a carbon wheel very quickly.
It’s also less maintenance because the carbon wheel stay true. My alloy wheels are already out of true after a few months.
@@JaredHoffi have the bontrager line elite carbon rims and i weight in at 100kg. I hammer them and the don’t even blink. Huge upgrade i made from aluminum but dit it when i bought the bike new so got a huge discount. Trek has them on special now with their sale
I have elite line carbon wheels on my dlash and love them. Def better than aluminium to my view. But difference aint like astronomical. I would say its more of a weight thing and carbon feels a bit smooter on technical lines
Definitely 👍 I need to make a follow up video talking about rotational weight. The weight in the wheels makes such a big difference. You can really tell when testing against a heavy wheelset like I did on my Polygon N9 upgrade video.
Excellent video Jared. That price point is nuts. I'm riding a Trek Fuel EX 9.7 with alloy Bontrager Line Comp 30's that are picking up 'dings' left/right/center....would be curious what you'd recommend as an affordable alloy upgrade that can take more of a beating than the Comp 30's.
Oh man! Usually I recommend inserts if you’re denying that much.
Carbon might be the right way to go for you, or alloy with inserts. Once you are damaging wheels,,, it changes the math because one good set of wheel might cost more up front but over the life of the wheel it will save you money.
@@JaredHoff Thanks Jared. Will explore the insert option 🙌
I just purchased a used Trek Slash 9.8 XT for $3,000. It was really clean and only a year old. It was a little more than I wanted to spend but I wanted to move up to a 29er. It came with carbon wheels, but I cannot tell the difference between the carbon and aluminum wheel sets.
Luckily right now you have some good lifetime warranty aluminium rims such as the Reserve Alloys....
If your adventurous and are willing to buy a few tools, you could try building your own carbon wheelsets for a huge discount.
Definitely 👍 I just don’t know if I have enough mechanic skills for that lol
I’m thinking about switching from 29’s to 27.5’s on my pivot 429. Have never really gotten use to the 29’s. They just feel like they are harder to jump with and handling isn’t as good in the tight twisty stuff. So would a high end carbon 29er solve these issues or should I switch to 27.5’s. Thinking about going with berds. Might as well go all out if I’m biting this bullet
Carbon will help a bit, but you may also want to go mullet with a 27.5” in the rear. That’s the best balance if you’re looking for a more playful setup. Does the Pivot 429 convert to mullet?
I’m always hesitant when bikes aren’t design to run a mullet setup.
Once you’ve upgrade the main components: handle bar, stem, headset, grips, flat pedals, brakes (if needed)… you’ll eventually get carbon wheels (lifetime warranty)… so I’d say get the carbon wheels 😂
Definitely 👍
lol damn. right after you got done talking about how other comparisons weren't as good cuz they didn't have the same tires or compounds, you mention that you have different widths and the carbon rims are a lot beefier. so now you don't know if it's the wider rims you're feeling, or the carbon
I definitely was doing this with the budget I had and tried my best to get comparable wheels, but I hear ya.
I’m now running a set of high-end alloy industry nine wheels (EN300). I want to get a set of carbon i9 wheels that are exactly same except carbon. That would make the test a lot better.
"Go daddy" 🥺
You could just have some carbon rims laced up to your existing wheels. Just saying.
Most definitely 👍
alloy vs aluminum frame?
I wish I had a carbon frame to test back-to-back BUT that’s way out of my budget.
Maybe one day the channel will get big enough for that 👍
IMO the only advantage to carbon wheels is if theyre much lighter
That’s what I used to think until I did this test. You can really feel the difference riding.
Not only are your carbon rims lighter , your wallet is way lighter still , I like my Stans aluminum rims , cheap and durable
I hear ya, which is kind of what I said at the end. But man the carbon wheels feel so much better.
I like carbon rims and bikes , loved my carbon Scott but my last 3 bikes have been aluminum and they have been great
I have a bike with carbon and a bike without. I could swap them around to feel the difference, but i’m way too lazy to change the rubber.
I have fun no matter what I ride. “Worth the money” is subjective, and if my bike wasn’t dialed, carbon wheels wouldn’t be my starting point for upgrading.
Definitely agree that carbon wheels are t the first thing to upgrade. Having fun is definitely the most important thing 👍
Ufff, 1000$ to be 2 seconds faster on trail. Not bloody worth. That's a joke. Ok, if they were like 300$ more expensive, sure, maybe. But fkin 1000$? Nah...
That’s kind of what I ended up deciding. But there’s a lot more than just added speed. They really do make the bike fun to ride.
I’ll get them someday, but not right now.
@@JaredHoff I get your point, when I used speed as comparison for difference, I didn't want to say speed is what only matters, but it is only thing you can objectively describe as a result.
I know there is a lot in subjective perception and (stiffer and stable riding and all that), which makes it more fun and more enyjoyable to ride, but still is 1000$ more enjoyable? :D