I also repair old Hi-Fi tape recorders, but when I have work to do to take it apart, I change the rubber belts and also clean and lubricate the sliding parts. All you need is sewing machine oil. Replacing only the rubber belts is half the job. For a quality repair, the device will later reward you with problem-free playback for a long time. I don't trust that I remember all the connections, I'll take a picture mobile first and mark the connectors with colored markers. Giving it back is then much easier.
You are my hero! I picked up a TC-K570, which uses the same mechanism, at a yard sale, also needing new belts. I almost certainly wouldn't have done it without breaking the mechanism, if it weren't for your video. I had a minor snag in which my cassette door would only open an inch or so; not enough to get access to the screws to remove the decorative plate. I was able to open it the rest of the way by manually applying 4V to the middle motor.
Appreciate this video, I’ve got a cd/tape deck combo with this mech, same issue with the belts. Will attempt a repair armed with your knowledge, thanks!
I remember this cassette deck. I bought one new in the early 1990:s because I wanted a three head deck. Unfortunately it had slight issues with flutter already from the beginning and my older 1979 Sony two head deck was more stable and also sounding clearer alltogether.
there no need to dissamble the mechanic that far for the little belt , also changing the capstan belt is very easy to do with the right tools . I always change the pinch roller too .
Brother, how to increase output treble in my Sony 3 head 222esl deck , my deck is not producing clean treble even i play with new tapes why, can you give me advice, if i change circuit doard will it produce more treble, im frm india
I got a TC-K677ES, and it seems almost the same inside; my belts had gone; I just replaced them OK. But I have a new problem; do you think it can be fixed? Any pointers? When playing back a known good tape, I only get sound from the right channel; the left is silent, and even the VU meters do not move on the left channel; just the right VU bars function. If I record, it seems to be recording to both left and right (I tried playing recording in a walkman). I wiggled all the cables, and all seems fine. Also, the recordings have a buzzing sound on them; if I switch to monitor mode, I hear a buzzing sound from any input. Even after setting the record level to zero, I still hear buzzing in source/monitor mode. The buzzing is also recorded on both channels. But playback, even of the buzzing, is just the right channel in this deck. If I press Pause Record, the buzzing gets louder and then softer for a split second. The sound I do get from the right channel doesn't sound the best either, but it's hard to say it's not been used for years, and I just got back into tapes again. When playing back tape and only hearing the right channel, I notice if I switch from dolby off to dolby on then off again rapidly, I see a small peak bar show up in the left channel display. Is it worth doing, or is it beyond it? Thanks
Sounds like something has come adrift between the playback head and the audio output, which doesn't narrow it down all that much I guess. My first thought would be to check the cables in case you knocked something loose, but it sounds like you've done that already. Other than that I'd try and find a service manual and work through the audio path looking for likely culprits.
hi, i just got this deck and was wondering how to replace the pinchrollers, never done it before so not quite sure how, also seeing you've done repair on similar models, do they share a pinchroller or its all different?
Schönes und ausführliches Video. Wenn ich es richtig sehe, wird hier nur auf die Antriebsseite eingegangen? Ich habe das gleiche Gerät, welches motormäßig einwandfrei läuft. Ich habe jedoch ein anderes Problem. Ich weiß zwar, wie man den Calibration-Mechanismus bedient, jedoch schaffe ich es mit keiner Kassette, die geforderten Werte bezüglich BIAS und RECORD LEVEL zu erreichen. Meist ist der BIAS zu niedrig. AUßerdem beeinflussen sich BIAS und Record Level gegenseitig. Woran könnte das liegen? Nice and detailed video. If I see it correctly, does it only deal with the drive side? I have the same device, which runs perfectly in terms of the motor. However, I have a different problem. I know how to operate the calibration mechanism, but I cannot achieve the required BIAS and RECORD LEVEL values with any cassette. The BIAS is usually too low. In addition, BIAS and Record Level influence each other. What could be the reason for this?
You're correct - the video was only about the mechanical side - specifically replacing the drive belts. Not sure what would be causing the issue you are seeing. I no longer have that deck here (its at my parents house), but the service manual may have some advice. I suspect you've already looked there though.
Superb demonstration, thank you and thanks only to which I did muster the courage to open and change the belts. On reassembling, however, the cassette holder does not open, although I could hear a few-seconds motor whine, in the background,. In fact, the cassette holder - on releasing the retaining lever - is stuck a quarter of the way in the opening arc (power off and the mechanism block free from the chassis). When powered on, the holder remains stuck in the closed position. I bow to and take heart from your perseverance in disassembling and reassembling, which I expect I need to emulate,. In the mean time, any advice would be invaluable and much appreciated. Thank you.
Sorry for the slow response - I suspect the issue is going to be with the "timing" of the drive gear - it has to be positioned exactly as shown in the difficult to see service manual diagram, otherwise things don't work quite right.
@@tassiebob Thank you. I am trying again. The crucial step is probably aligning the gear loading cam (173), guided by the protuberance next the highest elevation on the inner crescent-shaped cam, with reference to the loading roller (173). I keep trying. Thank you again.
'Hello ,and thanks for this video. I got the same problem got, but i didnt find the problem . Still not working ,but with 2 new belts. If you know what cause the problem , please let us know :-)
![Twenty One Pilots - “The Line” (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/E2Rj2gQAyPA/mqdefault.jpg)
I watched your video and then threw my old tc-wr590 in the trash. Geeze, you have the patience of Job.
I also repair old Hi-Fi tape recorders, but when I have work to do to take it apart, I change the rubber belts and also clean and lubricate the sliding parts. All you need is sewing machine oil. Replacing only the rubber belts is half the job. For a quality repair, the device will later reward you with problem-free playback for a long time. I don't trust that I remember all the connections, I'll take a picture mobile first and mark the connectors with colored markers. Giving it back is then much easier.
You are my hero! I picked up a TC-K570, which uses the same mechanism, at a yard sale, also needing new belts. I almost certainly wouldn't have done it without breaking the mechanism, if it weren't for your video.
I had a minor snag in which my cassette door would only open an inch or so; not enough to get access to the screws to remove the decorative plate. I was able to open it the rest of the way by manually applying 4V to the middle motor.
Appreciate this video, I’ve got a cd/tape deck combo with this mech, same issue with the belts. Will attempt a repair armed with your knowledge, thanks!
Thank you very much for this video. With it, i managed to repair my old TC-K590 !!!!
I remember this cassette deck. I bought one new in the early 1990:s because I wanted a three head deck. Unfortunately it had slight issues with flutter already from the beginning and my older 1979 Sony two head deck was more stable and also sounding clearer alltogether.
flutter is a problem indeed , have you seen the driver motor and the small belt and the capstan freewheel? Its a budget deck .
I have the same deck . I changed both belt just disassembling the mechanic from the chassis
Nice job on the repair. These later tape decks can be pretty fiddly to change belts.
there no need to dissamble the mechanic that far for the little belt , also changing the capstan belt is very easy to do with the right tools . I always change the pinch roller too .
Great job Sir 👍
amazing work
Awesome ❤
Brother, how to increase output treble in my Sony 3 head 222esl deck , my deck is not producing clean treble even i play with new tapes why, can you give me advice, if i change circuit doard will it produce more treble, im frm india
is it not a chopped finger from MCM ?
I do indeed have one of those in the workshop, so it's very likely you saw it :-)
Best the best wauuuuuuu totalmente un adamas mil gracias hi que el universo te lo multiplique por 3
I need to replace the new head for my Sony 3 head 222esl cassette Deck where will I get to buy the head
Good question, and I don't know the answer. I can only suggest Googling around using the part number.
How did you lube the noisy motor?
I got a TC-K677ES, and it seems almost the same inside; my belts had gone; I just replaced them OK. But I have a new problem; do you think it can be fixed? Any pointers? When playing back a known good tape, I only get sound from the right channel; the left is silent, and even the VU meters do not move on the left channel; just the right VU bars function. If I record, it seems to be recording to both left and right (I tried playing recording in a walkman). I wiggled all the cables, and all seems fine. Also, the recordings have a buzzing sound on them; if I switch to monitor mode, I hear a buzzing sound from any input. Even after setting the record level to zero, I still hear buzzing in source/monitor mode. The buzzing is also recorded on both channels. But playback, even of the buzzing, is just the right channel in this deck. If I press Pause Record, the buzzing gets louder and then softer for a split second.
The sound I do get from the right channel doesn't sound the best either, but it's hard to say it's not been used for years, and I just got back into tapes again.
When playing back tape and only hearing the right channel, I notice if I switch from dolby off to dolby on then off again rapidly, I see a small peak bar show up in the left channel display. Is it worth doing, or is it beyond it? Thanks
Sounds like something has come adrift between the playback head and the audio output, which doesn't narrow it down all that much I guess. My first thought would be to check the cables in case you knocked something loose, but it sounds like you've done that already. Other than that I'd try and find a service manual and work through the audio path looking for likely culprits.
Thanks for the reply, I will get the service manual down and start tracing it
@@tassiebob
hi, i just got this deck and was wondering how to replace the pinchrollers, never done it before so not quite sure how, also seeing you've done repair on similar models, do they share a pinchroller or its all different?
Schönes und ausführliches Video. Wenn ich es richtig sehe, wird hier nur auf die Antriebsseite eingegangen? Ich habe das gleiche Gerät, welches motormäßig einwandfrei läuft.
Ich habe jedoch ein anderes Problem. Ich weiß zwar, wie man den Calibration-Mechanismus bedient, jedoch schaffe ich es mit keiner Kassette, die geforderten Werte bezüglich BIAS und RECORD LEVEL zu erreichen. Meist ist der BIAS zu niedrig. AUßerdem beeinflussen sich BIAS und Record Level gegenseitig. Woran könnte das liegen?
Nice and detailed video. If I see it correctly, does it only deal with the drive side? I have the same device, which runs perfectly in terms of the motor.
However, I have a different problem. I know how to operate the calibration mechanism, but I cannot achieve the required BIAS and RECORD LEVEL values with any cassette. The BIAS is usually too low. In addition, BIAS and Record Level influence each other. What could be the reason for this?
You're correct - the video was only about the mechanical side - specifically replacing the drive belts. Not sure what would be causing the issue you are seeing. I no longer have that deck here (its at my parents house), but the service manual may have some advice. I suspect you've already looked there though.
Superb demonstration, thank you and thanks only to which I did muster the courage to open and change the belts. On reassembling, however, the cassette holder does not open, although I could hear a few-seconds motor whine, in the background,. In fact, the cassette holder - on releasing the retaining lever - is stuck a quarter of the way in the opening arc (power off and the mechanism block free from the chassis). When powered on, the holder remains stuck in the closed position. I bow to and take heart from your perseverance in disassembling and reassembling, which I expect I need to emulate,. In the mean time, any advice would be invaluable and much appreciated. Thank you.
Sorry for the slow response - I suspect the issue is going to be with the "timing" of the drive gear - it has to be positioned exactly as shown in the difficult to see service manual diagram, otherwise things don't work quite right.
@@tassiebob Thank you. I am trying again. The crucial step is probably aligning the gear loading cam (173), guided by the protuberance next the highest elevation on the inner crescent-shaped cam, with reference to the loading roller (173). I keep trying. Thank you again.
'Hello ,and thanks for this video. I got the same problem got, but i didnt find the problem . Still not working ,but with 2 new belts. If you know what cause the problem , please let us know :-)
If the tape doesn't play it's probably the program selector cam that's not aligned properly
thanks