Please, please, please make a video on the French, German and Austrian styles too! I realise there is no good reason for it to be a high priority, but learning these such things is why I always click so fast on your uploads!
@@davidpetersen566 Just found out Hugo Boss designed the uniforms of the Germans during WW2. No wonder I always wanted to wear an M35 uniform in public without the swastika band of course.
I fell in love with Italian suits after watching the movie "Bicycle Thieves", a classic movie made during the Italian Neorealism film movement. It stars the average working man, with a casual suit that almost looks comically too large for him. But it's brimming with personality, not to mention the movie itself is regarded as one of the best movies ever made, although it is quite sad, made in a time of hopelessness of living post WWII. anyway I'll stop feeling about movies now
@@lucianofrancesco4742 from my understanding, it is considered by many who study cinematic history or are film enthusiasts to be the quintessential film of Italian realism post WWII. At least, that's how I found it... you talk to anyone who cares to branch out of mainstream Hollywood or its cheap imitators worldwide, and Bicycle Thief is mentioned. Much like Band of Outsiders for French New Wave or any Kurosawa film from his various periods of styles.
That pin-striped, double-breasted, English suit is perfection. It's the sartorial equivalent to the Rolls-Royce radiator grille. Would you, please, offer details on its availability?
@@louiscyfer6944 disagree. You just have to find the correct style for your body type. The sort of modern skinny ankle revealing suit pants won’t work for that body type. Full cut trousers and a full cut jacket would look great
The Japanese word 背広 should really be romanized as "sebiro". Unfortunately, this word is not really used anymore, and they just say スーツ "soo-tsu" to mimic the word "suit".
You and Hugo jacomet should meet up. I’d love to see two people that have such a strong passion and knowledge of the sartorial world talk to each other and share that with us
We spent some time in Paris last year and I almost met up with Hugo but then I was offered to part of a PBS documentary so I had to fly to Rome, and we did not meet again at this house, but we will eventually meet up and make a video together I am sure
The change in lighting makes the channel look more professional, I'm not sure if that was your take for this episode. The improvement on video quality is impeccable!!!
As an Italian who had lived in the UK and now resides in central Europe, I usually like to wear English suits in the fall-winter season and Neapolitan suits in the late spring. Which given their origins in connection to local weather I guess makes some sense...
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
Being from scotland i think it would be cool if you covered kilts and traditional scottish wadding gear in a video. (Also no, we don’t wear kilts 24/7, they itchy af)
@Mata Man Given he knows a lot about tweed I am sure he can give it a go. However as a fellow Scot I think its probably not his forte and he would probably want to avoid it. For me the kilt and highland dress is very formal for weddings and anything black tie :) For example I wore tweed and a kilt for my wedding.
5 лет назад+8
@@nutyyyy it is probably not his forte, but the idea of him making a video wearing a kilt got me.
I adore my Neapolitan suits in the summer. You can just feel that breeze come through it. Makes events like outside weddings when it in the 80s and 90s outside far more tolerable.
Loro Piana is from the Biella province, north piedmont, I know because I live here😅 But they have more than one facility I guess, considering they sell internationally.
I was actually looking forward to you covering this concept, Raphael. Although, I have not personally had the luxury of owning a tailored suit from Savile Row, from what I've seen, Henry Poole and Huntsman seem to have the most magnificent bespoke garments, out there. Also, there seems to be a great amount of quality tailoring starting to take form in countries such as Singapore, which utilise a mix of the styles you mentioned earlier, in your video. All in all, this was a great video; keep up the good work!
You should check out Maurice Sedwell. They are the best that England has to offer in every possible way other than prices (which are the highest in England).
I haven't watched your videos -or any other RUclips video for that matter- in a long time, but your videos haven't lost any of their excellence. I honestly enjoy and learn from each one of them. All the best
The colours black and dark blue used to be quite expensive which is why they were regarded as 'chique' (US: chic), a proof of being well-off. Your best suit or most expensive suit was black. Till this day, black, anthracite and navy blue are considered chique. In the old times, you could make something black, but to have a black that would be resistent to washing so it kept being black, that was quite another matter. Even today, that is difficult.
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
There's very much a traditional tweed and woollen look here in the Uk right now, no doubt popularised by the Peaky Blinders TV programme. If you're into that, complete it with a 'penny collar' (small rounded collar) shirt. Nice!
I love this! Will you be doing a video/article on the other styles mentioned but not covered (Austrian, German, French, etc)? Is there a Hungarian style? I would imagine that it is more similar to the British or with heavy British influence, something conservative.
It's funny how suits and fedora have become formal, when they used to be the casual attire... Also, Austrian peasants did wear suits as you can still see in Trachten. They didn't have a single formal fibre to them, but were tough and kept them warm.
As per usual, a very interesting and informative video. Each video gets better and better whether that be in the presentation, wording or even the humour. I've seen this channel go from just Sven and a mannequin to the youtube style and mannerism powerhouse it is today. When you reach 1 million subscribers, can you do something fun and different? It would be interesting to have the two of you make a comedy episode or something like that.
In The Gulf we have the same things in our traditional clothes but we wear Thobe. Emirates, Saudi, Kuwait and the other gulf countries everyone has different traditional style.
As a proud Australian who loves wearing suits, I'll always aim to wear Italian style formal suits made from wool because of the warmer climate in Australia. Great video as always.
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
I have a video suggestion. How about a video that covers the history and social acceptance of a gentleman having a beard. I’ve noticed that in the 1800s and early 1900s that beards were a common. Later this changed and today we seem to be seeing a resurgence of the beard. It would be nice to learn more about the change in viewpoint on having a beard throughout the years.
Amazing video and discussion, very much appreciated. I'm beginning to realize that wearing suits and accessories is like an artist's palate where you can genuinely mix and match to express your own uniqueness and individuality. Ravi Peiris M.D.
Funny, first I didn't know about the dimples in the Neapolitan shoulder inlay and went back to the store. "Its meant to be like that." 🤔 Now it's become a trademark to proudly walk around with, for giving it a very stylish and natural look. 🙂 (Btw, I like both styles & wearing them interchangeably, especially the Saville Row and Napels style.)
Great channel. Please do a video on suits designed for activity, like hunting, horse riding, and my favourite tango dancing. Most off the shelf jackets are too restrictive in the arm movement and ride up if you lift the arms, so good tailors make special hems for these activities.
I live in Florida but I prefer British style suits so you can imagine my challenges. Also as much as I prefer the appearance of British suits I prefer silk as a fabric.
Nice history and comparaison of English, Italian and American suits. Nice to learn that the modern suit was invented in London by Beau Brummel. The suit was a cavalry officer uniform worn by civilian. I like to wear light suit. I would like to make a suit out of silk.
I don't think it's fair to say that American suits are less refined as a negative comment. They're not supposed to look refined. They're supposed to look relaxed, casual, and almost sporty. The American style is almost a relaxed version of the British style. True, if you don't like Prep, they're probably not appealing, but I wouldn't say that they're unsophisticated. The hallmark of American preppy style is that your clothes are supposed to look appropriate at the office, out lunch, at the country club, etc. Classic American suits reflect that ethos. (Are they my favorite? No. I like the classic British military cut, like Huntsman does, but that's beside the point.)
Wow, I never actually realized how different suits could be until I saw this video - I always just figured suits were suits! (Then again, I am a girl, so I wouldn't necessarily notice the subtle differences in men's suits...) Great video! :D :D
hmmm being 22 and in eastern europe its a hard choice, to look casual in a full suit aaand we have different seasons. wish me luck on buying my first suit from a tailor lol.
Remembering the 80’s in New York. Armani suits had the “Fall off the Shoulder” look, appearing almost as if, the wearer slept in it overnight. Like a pajama.
I have two 1950s American suits, a 60s British tweed sport coat, and an 80s Italian suit. All from different styles and eras but still very cool nevertheless, the collection grows !
Loved the video. I am much more conservative than you, but I appreciate your style. I am a beige, grey or blue guy period. No patch pockets, no cuffs, just conservative. The most common outfit I wear is a navy blazer with khaki or grey wool pants. I am a button down collar guy almost exclusively (LL Bean actually). I saw your video with blazers... but no brass buttons. I don't see too many blazers without them. Maybe I will have a look for one. I am retired now so I don't dress the way I used to. I was a teacher and the only one in the entire school to wear a tie every day until I retired. I usually wore a jacket to work, but took it off once I arrived. I have always used Prince Charles, William or Harry as my example. It would be nice to see a video on the Royal style. Thanks.
Very interesting video! However the suit was originally envisioned by Charles 2nd who wanted British people to have an identity and dress that looked less French. Part of the outfit was the Cravat or Croat which was a decorated fabric that women would tie around the necks of their husbands in Croatia.
This is fantastic, Raphael! One of my favorites from you...not that it matters but fuller pleated pants are coming back. Makes you quite the trend setter ;)
This is an excellent addition to your already blossoming channel. I've learned alot in this episode and well give it a second and viewing. Best of Luck to all at Gentleman Gazette for all your passion, and I will continue watching.
Here in Hong Kong there's been a recent sartorial shift from stiff English tailoring to Neapolitan flair given the tropical climate. Shops like The Armoury, Brycelands, Prologue, The Anthology are promoting that type of southern Italian style. My go-to suits now are Orazio Luciano and Dalcuore while the Huntsman is spending more time in the closet these days. Ciao!
I have an athletic build and I love a British style chalk stripe in blue or grey and I have a few, but not too much shoulder padding. To much padding makes me look like Arnold Schwarzenegger! I also love Brooks Brothers suits and Italian suits. No point in closing. Get them all!
Italian - Very versatile and also modern, depending on where you go Italian blazers have pocket flaps and double vents (which I think looks neater when you have your hands in your pockets) British - I would say both are very much equal but I give it to Italians for its versatility Nothing else to be quite honest. American - If you want to look like you have a loose cardboard box hanging on your shoulders But all in all, it depends on your body type. I think with the appropriate tailoring any of the above should help, except American.
I'am actually really curious and would like to also see the others suit styles e.g. German. Maybe a second part with the others? I would appreciate that.
I like what I can see of the jacket you are wearing now. I wish you would utilized the button-down collar shirts. That's all I will wear. I am a fan of that style. I have what I believe is the perfect suit from Nordstrom's - dark grey with three button coat. I got it 25 years ago - I'm retired now and have gained weight so I can't wear it. But I keep it as the absolutely perfect example of the American suit.
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
I don't think the right world for Italian classic style, should be casual. Casual is something you were when you are on vacation. Italian clothes and styles are very different, and they are perfect for cerimonies, businesses, formal situations... it's not just casual. Always wrong people abroad talking about Italy. Also I would never use brown suits.
I think the word casual can be used, but not in the informal sense. I say this as a southern italian, we're "casual", in the sense that we have a more relaxed, easy going life pace and it reflects in our tailoring too. We tend to be that way even in more formal occasions, we hate to be rigid and upper-lipped even in important situations, and even if it's for a formal thing we want our clothes to appear more "relaxed"
For me, I really love the British suit fit and silhouette but the years haven’t been too kind to me. The fit of the American style fits my broad and father body much easier and more comfortably than the British style. Italian was never an option as it’s far too slim for my chest and legs. I do have a couple “well fitted” suits for when the occasion calls, but for the most part, the American sack suit is what I’ll reach for
Great video, thank you for the information. I guess the Milanese style might be the best in terms of "one size fits all" but all the different styles have interesting details! Also it would be most interesting to see a video on the lesser known styles of tailoring, such as the French or German.
Will we see the video about some features in other country`s tailoring, such as German and French? It will be educating since most of the people out threre know very little about it.
Because I'm a very large person both in height and a bit of portlyness I typically fall into a loose and relaxed look of a morning coat, a simple waistcoat and a usually open collar. Also I like the very popular in the 30s both here in the US and England of mixing colors and textures. Also full cut pants. (Often I get away with a charcoal denim jeans) although I tend to air on the more northwestern looks from the late 19th century (hence the morning coat as all day ware)
Great video, but a lot of mistakes in the sack suit description; undarted doesn’t mean boxy, they were cut very slim with straight hanging lines. The trousers were always tapered with cuffs. Very common misconceptions.
I do believe the only 'suits' people from Manchester wear are tracksuits and shell suits.
Can confirm
suit is a cloth.... it depend to their job
😂😂😂
Lol x 10000
Robert Edwards Nice video
Raphael, the kinda guy to tailor his birthday suit for that classic tapered look.
U r funny for that
Garety Woodrick your mom.
Razo I like burgers.
@@billysinge8977 take the compliment ya dork :)
Garety Woodrick oh! Well thanks man I appreciate that!
Please, please, please make a video on the French, German and Austrian styles too! I realise there is no good reason for it to be a high priority, but learning these such things is why I always click so fast on your uploads!
there is a very good reason for this….hugo boss 😏👌
@@davidpetersen566 Just found out Hugo Boss designed the uniforms of the Germans during WW2.
No wonder I always wanted to wear an M35 uniform in public without the swastika band of course.
@@TheRealFocalors he didn't actually design the SS uniforms. their factory was forced to produce them.
I fell in love with Italian suits after watching the movie "Bicycle Thieves", a classic movie made during the Italian Neorealism film movement. It stars the average working man, with a casual suit that almost looks comically too large for him. But it's brimming with personality, not to mention the movie itself is regarded as one of the best movies ever made, although it is quite sad, made in a time of hopelessness of living post WWII. anyway I'll stop feeling about movies now
Such a great film. Didn't know it was somewhat recognized even abroad.
@@lucianofrancesco4742 from my understanding, it is considered by many who study cinematic history or are film enthusiasts to be the quintessential film of Italian realism post WWII. At least, that's how I found it... you talk to anyone who cares to branch out of mainstream Hollywood or its cheap imitators worldwide, and Bicycle Thief is mentioned. Much like Band of Outsiders for French New Wave or any Kurosawa film from his various periods of styles.
The movie is an absolute classic. A true masterpiece of Italian cinema. I commend you sir, on your fine movie taste.
Yup, it's a classic
The best and clearest point of the video is “the american suit is named after the french term ‘saque’ meaning a potato sack”.
Ciao dall’Italia.
I get my casual suits for work in Italy, if I need something more formal I go to London and for something stylish, Tokyo is definitely
my destination.
That pin-striped, double-breasted, English suit is perfection. It's the sartorial equivalent to the Rolls-Royce radiator grille. Would you, please, offer details on its availability?
He got it from Ralph Lauren. That’s all i know.
Ralph Lauren purple label.
no suit is perfection. they don't look good on built guys, only on flabby and skinny ones.
@@louiscyfer6944 disagree. You just have to find the correct style for your body type. The sort of modern skinny ankle revealing suit pants won’t work for that body type. Full cut trousers and a full cut jacket would look great
@@ForestTurtle have you seen a bodybuilder in a suit? it looks like a tent. the full cut jacket and trousers looks worse than anything.
The Japanese word 背広 should really be romanized as "sebiro". Unfortunately, this word is not really used anymore, and they just say スーツ "soo-tsu" to mimic the word "suit".
Don't let things like reality get in the way of his video claims. ;)
I WAS SHOOK HE DIDN´T SAY スーツ
Sebiro is in fact a misPronunciation of Savile Row
You and Hugo jacomet should meet up. I’d love to see two people that have such a strong passion and knowledge of the sartorial world talk to each other and share that with us
I already saw a picture of them together on Instagram. As a frenchman, i follow and forward Hugo on both of his channels.
They both already are friends
We spent some time in Paris last year and I almost met up with Hugo but then I was offered to part of a PBS documentary so I had to fly to Rome, and we did not meet again at this house, but we will eventually meet up and make a video together I am sure
Top crossovers
@@gentlemansgazette What? How do I watch this PBS documentary!
The change in lighting makes the channel look more professional, I'm not sure if that was your take for this episode. The improvement on video quality is impeccable!!!
americans - ice cream that's melting under the sun
british - ice cream that's too frozen, you have a hard time scooping
italian - gelato.
"you look like melted ice cream"
Sweden - you can use it and mash a duck. 😁
Slav - tracksuit
Vero.
Ice cream is italian lol
As an Italian who had lived in the UK and now resides in central Europe, I usually like to wear English suits in the fall-winter season and Neapolitan suits in the late spring. Which given their origins in connection to local weather I guess makes some sense...
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
Being from scotland i think it would be cool if you covered kilts and traditional scottish wadding gear in a video. (Also no, we don’t wear kilts 24/7, they itchy af)
@Mata Man I'm sure he knows traditional clothes very well lol
@Mata Man Given he knows a lot about tweed I am sure he can give it a go.
However as a fellow Scot I think its probably not his forte and he would probably want to avoid it.
For me the kilt and highland dress is very formal for weddings and anything black tie :)
For example I wore tweed and a kilt for my wedding.
@@nutyyyy it is probably not his forte, but the idea of him making a video wearing a kilt got me.
Isn't a kilt a bad idea in winter?
@@arx3516 They're surprisingly warm! The kilt is wool, our hairy legs are warm insulation, and our shocking plaid socks are made of wool as well! :)
Italian/ Napels is incredible, also the mills, just got an awesome Loro Piana sports jacket
I adore my Neapolitan suits in the summer. You can just feel that breeze come through it. Makes events like outside weddings when it in the 80s and 90s outside far more tolerable.
it good for summer...
I live 50km near loro piana facory ahahah
Except Loro Piano is from northern Italy.
Loro Piana is from the Biella province, north piedmont, I know because I live here😅
But they have more than one facility I guess, considering they sell internationally.
I was actually looking forward to you covering this concept, Raphael.
Although, I have not personally had the luxury of owning a tailored suit from Savile Row, from what I've seen, Henry Poole and Huntsman seem to have the most magnificent bespoke garments, out there. Also, there seems to be a great amount of quality tailoring starting to take form in countries such as Singapore, which utilise a mix of the styles you mentioned earlier, in your video.
All in all, this was a great video; keep up the good work!
You should check out Maurice Sedwell. They are the best that England has to offer in every possible way other than prices (which are the highest in England).
I haven't watched your videos -or any other RUclips video for that matter- in a long time, but your videos haven't lost any of their excellence.
I honestly enjoy and learn from each one of them.
All the best
You have a great public speaking voice. Thanks for the information on suits
This video was better than anything the history channel has aired in two decades, so interesting. Please keep the content coming!
Great video once again. Very informative as always. The quality of the videos has stepped up a notch
The colours black and dark blue used to be quite expensive which is why they were regarded as 'chique' (US: chic), a proof of being well-off. Your best suit or most expensive suit was black. Till this day, black, anthracite and navy blue are considered chique. In the old times, you could make something black, but to have a black that would be resistent to washing so it kept being black, that was quite another matter. Even today, that is difficult.
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
Exactly like English style (understatement, wide shoulders, small waist, thick material, pure wool)
There's very much a traditional tweed and woollen look here in the Uk right now, no doubt popularised by the Peaky Blinders TV programme. If you're into that, complete it with a 'penny collar' (small rounded collar) shirt. Nice!
I love this! Will you be doing a video/article on the other styles mentioned but not covered (Austrian, German, French, etc)?
Is there a Hungarian style? I would imagine that it is more similar to the British or with heavy British influence, something conservative.
It's funny how suits and fedora have become formal, when they used to be the casual attire...
Also, Austrian peasants did wear suits as you can still see in Trachten. They didn't have a single formal fibre to them, but were tough and kept them warm.
That british pinstripe DB suit is just fantastic.
Can we expect a line off classic suits from Fort Belvedere? Maybe replicas of Sven's suits?
Maybe one day ...
@@gentlemansgazette Oooh. Why this teasing? I can't wait!
@@gentlemansgazette And rings also please!
Thank you so much! I have been waiting for this video for about half a year!
Bonus tip: Don't try "waist suppression" (4:18) in a pinstripe. But on the whole, Excellent video ! !
Anyone else appreciate that jazzy drum beat throughout?
As per usual, a very interesting and informative video. Each video gets better and better whether that be in the presentation, wording or even the humour. I've seen this channel go from just Sven and a mannequin to the youtube style and mannerism powerhouse it is today. When you reach 1 million subscribers, can you do something fun and different? It would be interesting to have the two of you make a comedy episode or something like that.
I love gentlemans gazette on RUclips! Again a very interesting video! Thanks
Italian! Always Italian! In everything! 💝 Thank you.
In The Gulf we have the same things in our traditional clothes but we wear Thobe. Emirates, Saudi, Kuwait and the other gulf countries everyone has different traditional style.
As a proud Australian who loves wearing suits, I'll always aim to wear Italian style formal suits made from wool because of the warmer climate in Australia.
Great video as always.
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
Pic at 14:14 is the most flattering I've ever seen of you
I actually think his double breasted navy pin stripped suit is his most flattering.
That one and the DB pinstripe suit look amazing. Definitely a look I'd try to emulate. Very flattering indeed.
I know nothing about suits but that suite he us wearing looks beautiful. Love the fabric, color, and quality look. Im jealous.
I have a video suggestion. How about a video that covers the history and social acceptance of a gentleman having a beard. I’ve noticed that in the 1800s and early 1900s that beards were a common. Later this changed and today we seem to be seeing a resurgence of the beard. It would be nice to learn more about the change in viewpoint on having a beard throughout the years.
Amazing video and discussion, very much appreciated. I'm beginning to realize that wearing suits and accessories is like an artist's palate where you can genuinely mix and match to express your own uniqueness and individuality.
Ravi Peiris M.D.
"So what suit style is best? Obviously whatever John Wick was wearing"
There i fixed it for you :V
HE WORE SICILIAN. THINK ABOUT IT. CATACOMBS?
A company in Tennessee i believe makes something similar to a John Wick suit, runs upwards of 10k for the simplest one.
@@shadowspire Magic bulletproof interlayer included?
English suits are definitely my favourite. Looks the most stylish to me.
Funny, first I didn't know about the dimples in the Neapolitan shoulder inlay and went back to the store. "Its meant to be like that." 🤔
Now it's become a trademark to proudly walk around with, for giving it a very stylish and natural look. 🙂
(Btw, I like both styles & wearing them interchangeably, especially the Saville Row and Napels style.)
Great channel. Please do a video on suits designed for activity, like hunting, horse riding, and my favourite tango dancing. Most off the shelf jackets are too restrictive in the arm movement and ride up if you lift the arms, so good tailors make special hems for these activities.
Thank you, once again. You've pulled together into one superior package numerous topical elements which you've previously discussed. You nailed it.
I live in Florida but I prefer British style suits so you can imagine my challenges. Also as much as I prefer the appearance of British suits I prefer silk as a fabric.
Nice history and comparaison of English, Italian and American suits. Nice to learn that the modern suit was invented in London by Beau Brummel. The suit was a cavalry officer uniform worn by civilian. I like to wear light suit. I would like to make a suit out of silk.
Love to see a follow-up video on French and German styles.
British suit jackets are meant to be kept buttoned even when you sit down which is not the case with US or Italian.
I don't think it's fair to say that American suits are less refined as a negative comment. They're not supposed to look refined. They're supposed to look relaxed, casual, and almost sporty. The American style is almost a relaxed version of the British style. True, if you don't like Prep, they're probably not appealing, but I wouldn't say that they're unsophisticated. The hallmark of American preppy style is that your clothes are supposed to look appropriate at the office, out lunch, at the country club, etc. Classic American suits reflect that ethos.
(Are they my favorite? No. I like the classic British military cut, like Huntsman does, but that's beside the point.)
Morgan Glines Thank you, for defending the honorable sack suit
Wow, I never actually realized how different suits could be until I saw this video - I always just figured suits were suits! (Then again, I am a girl, so I wouldn't necessarily notice the subtle differences in men's suits...) Great video! :D :D
The 80s suit style is definitely my favourite
hmmm being 22 and in eastern europe its a hard choice, to look casual in a full suit aaand we have different seasons. wish me luck on buying my first suit from a tailor lol.
Matufa Music good luck
Check out Boggi also.
Remembering the 80’s in New York. Armani suits had the “Fall off the Shoulder” look, appearing almost as if, the wearer slept in it overnight. Like a pajama.
I have two 1950s American suits, a 60s British tweed sport coat, and an 80s Italian suit. All from different styles and eras but still very cool nevertheless, the collection grows !
Raphael you covered suits with simplicity & not to overlook da Kingsman Tie 🤟😎👍
Love this video I love wearing suits wear them every single day.
Loved the video. I am much more conservative than you, but I appreciate your style. I am a beige, grey or blue guy period. No patch pockets, no cuffs, just conservative. The most common outfit I wear is a navy blazer with khaki or grey wool pants. I am a button down collar guy almost exclusively (LL Bean actually). I saw your video with blazers... but no brass buttons. I don't see too many blazers without them. Maybe I will have a look for one. I am retired now so I don't dress the way I used to. I was a teacher and the only one in the entire school to wear a tie every day until I retired. I usually wore a jacket to work, but took it off once I arrived. I have always used Prince Charles, William or Harry as my example. It would be nice to see a video on the Royal style. Thanks.
Harris tweed herringbone in a rather slim fit cut,the coolest looking suit i ever had.
Very interesting video! However the suit was originally envisioned by Charles 2nd who wanted British people to have an identity and dress that looked less French. Part of the outfit was the Cravat or Croat which was a decorated fabric that women would tie around the necks of their husbands in Croatia.
This is fantastic, Raphael! One of my favorites from you...not that it matters but fuller pleated pants are coming back. Makes you quite the trend setter ;)
British suit: "What a gentleman!"
American suit: "What a business man!"
Italian suit: *"Help there's a mobster"*
Italy sexy people and the best design in the world!
Yes
A very thorough comparison, characteristic of Gentleman’s Gazette. Well made. Reminds me of Hugo Jacomet, who did a similar video.
British one is my favourite one
Neapolitan style all the way. Fantastic video, Raphael!
This is an excellent addition to your already blossoming channel. I've learned alot in this episode and well give it a second and viewing. Best of Luck to all at Gentleman Gazette for all your passion, and I will continue watching.
Here in Hong Kong there's been a recent sartorial shift from stiff English tailoring to Neapolitan flair given the tropical climate. Shops like The Armoury, Brycelands, Prologue, The Anthology are promoting that type of southern Italian style. My go-to suits now are Orazio Luciano and Dalcuore while the Huntsman is spending more time in the closet these days. Ciao!
Got a Hong Kong suit jacket hand down my grandfather had tailored in 60s loved it, dark grey
I have an athletic build and I love a British style chalk stripe in blue or grey and I have a few, but not too much shoulder padding. To much padding makes me look like Arnold Schwarzenegger! I also love Brooks Brothers suits and Italian suits. No point in closing. Get them all!
Italian - Very versatile and also modern, depending on where you go Italian blazers have pocket flaps and double vents (which I think looks neater when you have your hands in your pockets)
British - I would say both are very much equal but I give it to Italians for its versatility
Nothing else to be quite honest.
American - If you want to look like you have a loose cardboard box hanging on your shoulders
But all in all, it depends on your body type. I think with the appropriate tailoring any of the above should help, except American.
Really elegant, excellent and gives man a good posture and fitness.
This is a very informative video, Mr. Schneider. Thank you!
So what kind of suit is the presenter wearing?
I love the colour.
English, heavy fabric with Italian style pockets, etc.
Thank you for this, greetings from the Netherlands!
I like Dutch suites , have several from a shop in London
I'am actually really curious and would like to also see the others suit styles e.g. German.
Maybe a second part with the others? I would appreciate that.
Alexander Stumpf the elephant in the room is not German but French style
Look up "Hugo Boss" for his... "worldwide fashion style".
I like the English suit because of the eloquently style and form
I like what I can see of the jacket you are wearing now. I wish you would utilized the button-down collar shirts. That's all I will wear. I am a fan of that style. I have what I believe is the perfect suit from Nordstrom's - dark grey with three button coat. I got it 25 years ago - I'm retired now and have gained weight so I can't wear it. But I keep it as the absolutely perfect example of the American suit.
That brown suit looks sharp
Great review of the history of each style!!
I got mine from Redmayne 1860. Thomas Mahon, the proprietor learned his cutting at A&S. Pays to shop around, even on "The Row".
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
I don't think the right world for Italian classic style, should be casual. Casual is something you were when you are on vacation. Italian clothes and styles are very different, and they are perfect for cerimonies, businesses, formal situations... it's not just casual. Always wrong people abroad talking about Italy. Also I would never use brown suits.
I think the word casual can be used, but not in the informal sense. I say this as a southern italian, we're "casual", in the sense that we have a more relaxed, easy going life pace and it reflects in our tailoring too. We tend to be that way even in more formal occasions, we hate to be rigid and upper-lipped even in important situations, and even if it's for a formal thing we want our clothes to appear more "relaxed"
For me, I really love the British suit fit and silhouette but the years haven’t been too kind to me. The fit of the American style fits my broad and father body much easier and more comfortably than the British style. Italian was never an option as it’s far too slim for my chest and legs. I do have a couple “well fitted” suits for when the occasion calls, but for the most part, the American sack suit is what I’ll reach for
I’m not sure how much I have learned. It seems they are a hybrid.
very nice. learned a lot. gonna search for some bespoke suits for myself.
Great video, thank you for the information. I guess the Milanese style might be the best in terms of "one size fits all" but all the different styles have interesting details! Also it would be most interesting to see a video on the lesser known styles of tailoring, such as the French or German.
Will we see the video about some features in other country`s tailoring, such as German and French? It will be educating since most of the people out threre know very little about it.
Love these videos 👍🇬🇧🇺🇸🇮🇹
Ireland has good suit making heritage too. Look at Magee of Donegal.
I envy you. In a good way. Thanks for the amazing content. 👍🏼
9:46 great pronounce man, really, really good.!
Because I'm a very large person both in height and a bit of portlyness I typically fall into a loose and relaxed look of a morning coat, a simple waistcoat and a usually open collar. Also I like the very popular in the 30s both here in the US and England of mixing colors and textures. Also full cut pants. (Often I get away with a charcoal denim jeans) although I tend to air on the more northwestern looks from the late 19th century (hence the morning coat as all day ware)
Excuse me! What are we listening to in the background? I need to know:) I Like it very much!
Another fantastic video. I love that brown suit.
Great video, but a lot of mistakes in the sack suit description; undarted doesn’t mean boxy, they were cut very slim with straight hanging lines. The trousers were always tapered with cuffs. Very common misconceptions.
Very informative... Thank you
Love those videos. Keep it up!
The color suits you well. :)
Thanks to your videos, I’m going to get my first MTM suit tomorrow!
I would look to see the other styles of suits in another video
Perfect video! Thanks for explaining!
Wearing a suit nowadays it’s perceived like if you are attending a wedding, consequently wearing a less formal suit it’s better . Italian style rules.
Would you do a video on the regional differences between the Italian suits. Would love to know the difference between Milan and Sicily and Naples.
Excellent video. Very well researched with lots of detail.