Please, please, please make a video on the French, German and Austrian styles too! I realise there is no good reason for it to be a high priority, but learning these such things is why I always click so fast on your uploads!
@@davidpetersen566 Just found out Hugo Boss designed the uniforms of the Germans during WW2. No wonder I always wanted to wear an M35 uniform in public without the swastika band of course.
I fell in love with Italian suits after watching the movie "Bicycle Thieves", a classic movie made during the Italian Neorealism film movement. It stars the average working man, with a casual suit that almost looks comically too large for him. But it's brimming with personality, not to mention the movie itself is regarded as one of the best movies ever made, although it is quite sad, made in a time of hopelessness of living post WWII. anyway I'll stop feeling about movies now
@@lucianofrancesco4742 from my understanding, it is considered by many who study cinematic history or are film enthusiasts to be the quintessential film of Italian realism post WWII. At least, that's how I found it... you talk to anyone who cares to branch out of mainstream Hollywood or its cheap imitators worldwide, and Bicycle Thief is mentioned. Much like Band of Outsiders for French New Wave or any Kurosawa film from his various periods of styles.
That pin-striped, double-breasted, English suit is perfection. It's the sartorial equivalent to the Rolls-Royce radiator grille. Would you, please, offer details on its availability?
@@louiscyfer6944 disagree. You just have to find the correct style for your body type. The sort of modern skinny ankle revealing suit pants won’t work for that body type. Full cut trousers and a full cut jacket would look great
As an Italian who had lived in the UK and now resides in central Europe, I usually like to wear English suits in the fall-winter season and Neapolitan suits in the late spring. Which given their origins in connection to local weather I guess makes some sense...
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
You and Hugo jacomet should meet up. I’d love to see two people that have such a strong passion and knowledge of the sartorial world talk to each other and share that with us
We spent some time in Paris last year and I almost met up with Hugo but then I was offered to part of a PBS documentary so I had to fly to Rome, and we did not meet again at this house, but we will eventually meet up and make a video together I am sure
The Japanese word 背広 should really be romanized as "sebiro". Unfortunately, this word is not really used anymore, and they just say スーツ "soo-tsu" to mimic the word "suit".
The change in lighting makes the channel look more professional, I'm not sure if that was your take for this episode. The improvement on video quality is impeccable!!!
Being from scotland i think it would be cool if you covered kilts and traditional scottish wadding gear in a video. (Also no, we don’t wear kilts 24/7, they itchy af)
@Mata Man Given he knows a lot about tweed I am sure he can give it a go. However as a fellow Scot I think its probably not his forte and he would probably want to avoid it. For me the kilt and highland dress is very formal for weddings and anything black tie :) For example I wore tweed and a kilt for my wedding.
5 лет назад+8
@@nutyyyy it is probably not his forte, but the idea of him making a video wearing a kilt got me.
I haven't watched your videos -or any other RUclips video for that matter- in a long time, but your videos haven't lost any of their excellence. I honestly enjoy and learn from each one of them. All the best
I was actually looking forward to you covering this concept, Raphael. Although, I have not personally had the luxury of owning a tailored suit from Savile Row, from what I've seen, Henry Poole and Huntsman seem to have the most magnificent bespoke garments, out there. Also, there seems to be a great amount of quality tailoring starting to take form in countries such as Singapore, which utilise a mix of the styles you mentioned earlier, in your video. All in all, this was a great video; keep up the good work!
You should check out Maurice Sedwell. They are the best that England has to offer in every possible way other than prices (which are the highest in England).
I adore my Neapolitan suits in the summer. You can just feel that breeze come through it. Makes events like outside weddings when it in the 80s and 90s outside far more tolerable.
Loro Piana is from the Biella province, north piedmont, I know because I live here😅 But they have more than one facility I guess, considering they sell internationally.
The colours black and dark blue used to be quite expensive which is why they were regarded as 'chique' (US: chic), a proof of being well-off. Your best suit or most expensive suit was black. Till this day, black, anthracite and navy blue are considered chique. In the old times, you could make something black, but to have a black that would be resistent to washing so it kept being black, that was quite another matter. Even today, that is difficult.
As a proud Australian who loves wearing suits, I'll always aim to wear Italian style formal suits made from wool because of the warmer climate in Australia. Great video as always.
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
There's very much a traditional tweed and woollen look here in the Uk right now, no doubt popularised by the Peaky Blinders TV programme. If you're into that, complete it with a 'penny collar' (small rounded collar) shirt. Nice!
I love this! Will you be doing a video/article on the other styles mentioned but not covered (Austrian, German, French, etc)? Is there a Hungarian style? I would imagine that it is more similar to the British or with heavy British influence, something conservative.
As per usual, a very interesting and informative video. Each video gets better and better whether that be in the presentation, wording or even the humour. I've seen this channel go from just Sven and a mannequin to the youtube style and mannerism powerhouse it is today. When you reach 1 million subscribers, can you do something fun and different? It would be interesting to have the two of you make a comedy episode or something like that.
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
It's funny how suits and fedora have become formal, when they used to be the casual attire... Also, Austrian peasants did wear suits as you can still see in Trachten. They didn't have a single formal fibre to them, but were tough and kept them warm.
Great channel. Please do a video on suits designed for activity, like hunting, horse riding, and my favourite tango dancing. Most off the shelf jackets are too restrictive in the arm movement and ride up if you lift the arms, so good tailors make special hems for these activities.
Amazing video and discussion, very much appreciated. I'm beginning to realize that wearing suits and accessories is like an artist's palate where you can genuinely mix and match to express your own uniqueness and individuality. Ravi Peiris M.D.
Italian - Very versatile and also modern, depending on where you go Italian blazers have pocket flaps and double vents (which I think looks neater when you have your hands in your pockets) British - I would say both are very much equal but I give it to Italians for its versatility Nothing else to be quite honest. American - If you want to look like you have a loose cardboard box hanging on your shoulders But all in all, it depends on your body type. I think with the appropriate tailoring any of the above should help, except American.
In The Gulf we have the same things in our traditional clothes but we wear Thobe. Emirates, Saudi, Kuwait and the other gulf countries everyone has different traditional style.
I have a video suggestion. How about a video that covers the history and social acceptance of a gentleman having a beard. I’ve noticed that in the 1800s and early 1900s that beards were a common. Later this changed and today we seem to be seeing a resurgence of the beard. It would be nice to learn more about the change in viewpoint on having a beard throughout the years.
I don't think the right world for Italian classic style, should be casual. Casual is something you were when you are on vacation. Italian clothes and styles are very different, and they are perfect for cerimonies, businesses, formal situations... it's not just casual. Always wrong people abroad talking about Italy. Also I would never use brown suits.
I think the word casual can be used, but not in the informal sense. I say this as a southern italian, we're "casual", in the sense that we have a more relaxed, easy going life pace and it reflects in our tailoring too. We tend to be that way even in more formal occasions, we hate to be rigid and upper-lipped even in important situations, and even if it's for a formal thing we want our clothes to appear more "relaxed"
Funny, first I didn't know about the dimples in the Neapolitan shoulder inlay and went back to the store. "Its meant to be like that." 🤔 Now it's become a trademark to proudly walk around with, for giving it a very stylish and natural look. 🙂 (Btw, I like both styles & wearing them interchangeably, especially the Saville Row and Napels style.)
Nice history and comparaison of English, Italian and American suits. Nice to learn that the modern suit was invented in London by Beau Brummel. The suit was a cavalry officer uniform worn by civilian. I like to wear light suit. I would like to make a suit out of silk.
Loved the video. I am much more conservative than you, but I appreciate your style. I am a beige, grey or blue guy period. No patch pockets, no cuffs, just conservative. The most common outfit I wear is a navy blazer with khaki or grey wool pants. I am a button down collar guy almost exclusively (LL Bean actually). I saw your video with blazers... but no brass buttons. I don't see too many blazers without them. Maybe I will have a look for one. I am retired now so I don't dress the way I used to. I was a teacher and the only one in the entire school to wear a tie every day until I retired. I usually wore a jacket to work, but took it off once I arrived. I have always used Prince Charles, William or Harry as my example. It would be nice to see a video on the Royal style. Thanks.
Wow, I never actually realized how different suits could be until I saw this video - I always just figured suits were suits! (Then again, I am a girl, so I wouldn't necessarily notice the subtle differences in men's suits...) Great video! :D :D
Here in Hong Kong there's been a recent sartorial shift from stiff English tailoring to Neapolitan flair given the tropical climate. Shops like The Armoury, Brycelands, Prologue, The Anthology are promoting that type of southern Italian style. My go-to suits now are Orazio Luciano and Dalcuore while the Huntsman is spending more time in the closet these days. Ciao!
I don't think it's fair to say that American suits are less refined as a negative comment. They're not supposed to look refined. They're supposed to look relaxed, casual, and almost sporty. The American style is almost a relaxed version of the British style. True, if you don't like Prep, they're probably not appealing, but I wouldn't say that they're unsophisticated. The hallmark of American preppy style is that your clothes are supposed to look appropriate at the office, out lunch, at the country club, etc. Classic American suits reflect that ethos. (Are they my favorite? No. I like the classic British military cut, like Huntsman does, but that's beside the point.)
This is fantastic, Raphael! One of my favorites from you...not that it matters but fuller pleated pants are coming back. Makes you quite the trend setter ;)
This is an excellent addition to your already blossoming channel. I've learned alot in this episode and well give it a second and viewing. Best of Luck to all at Gentleman Gazette for all your passion, and I will continue watching.
I have two 1950s American suits, a 60s British tweed sport coat, and an 80s Italian suit. All from different styles and eras but still very cool nevertheless, the collection grows !
hmmm being 22 and in eastern europe its a hard choice, to look casual in a full suit aaand we have different seasons. wish me luck on buying my first suit from a tailor lol.
Will we see the video about some features in other country`s tailoring, such as German and French? It will be educating since most of the people out threre know very little about it.
Because I'm a very large person both in height and a bit of portlyness I typically fall into a loose and relaxed look of a morning coat, a simple waistcoat and a usually open collar. Also I like the very popular in the 30s both here in the US and England of mixing colors and textures. Also full cut pants. (Often I get away with a charcoal denim jeans) although I tend to air on the more northwestern looks from the late 19th century (hence the morning coat as all day ware)
I live in Florida but I prefer British style suits so you can imagine my challenges. Also as much as I prefer the appearance of British suits I prefer silk as a fabric.
I like what I can see of the jacket you are wearing now. I wish you would utilized the button-down collar shirts. That's all I will wear. I am a fan of that style. I have what I believe is the perfect suit from Nordstrom's - dark grey with three button coat. I got it 25 years ago - I'm retired now and have gained weight so I can't wear it. But I keep it as the absolutely perfect example of the American suit.
Very interesting video! However the suit was originally envisioned by Charles 2nd who wanted British people to have an identity and dress that looked less French. Part of the outfit was the Cravat or Croat which was a decorated fabric that women would tie around the necks of their husbands in Croatia.
For the last couple of years I've noticed TV hosts wearing suits with the pant waist cut very low and jacket cut so it opens at the bottom to show the shirt and tie above the waistband. I really don’t like this style, yet the last time I shopped for a suit I was shown many of those and rejected them. I'm heavy set and those make me look even fatter and like the jacket is too small for me. What type of suit would you recommend for the more portly gentleman who still wants to look well dressed?
Any plans to do the other European styles? I'm more casual, but have 2 jackets I love, a heavy tweed in bluish grey and cherry-red lines from Brook Taverner and an interesting blue jacket from Norway by Frislid, with a white thread interwoven in the fabric, it's a very nice colour. Any tips?
I have an athletic build and I love a British style chalk stripe in blue or grey and I have a few, but not too much shoulder padding. To much padding makes me look like Arnold Schwarzenegger! I also love Brooks Brothers suits and Italian suits. No point in closing. Get them all!
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
Remembering the 80’s in New York. Armani suits had the “Fall off the Shoulder” look, appearing almost as if, the wearer slept in it overnight. Like a pajama.
I'am actually really curious and would like to also see the others suit styles e.g. German. Maybe a second part with the others? I would appreciate that.
For me, I really love the British suit fit and silhouette but the years haven’t been too kind to me. The fit of the American style fits my broad and father body much easier and more comfortably than the British style. Italian was never an option as it’s far too slim for my chest and legs. I do have a couple “well fitted” suits for when the occasion calls, but for the most part, the American sack suit is what I’ll reach for
Great video, but a lot of mistakes in the sack suit description; undarted doesn’t mean boxy, they were cut very slim with straight hanging lines. The trousers were always tapered with cuffs. Very common misconceptions.
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
Somewhat caused by some Asian movies, double-breasted suits with pinstripes look quite informal to me as an Asian. Much more less formal than a single-breasted suit in black, navy or very dark grey or blue in plain fabrics. I've heard that double breasted jackets were used to avoid wearing a dayvest when three piece was a thing so single breasted would be even more formal (not applying to frock coats, morning dress and tailed stuff
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
I do believe the only 'suits' people from Manchester wear are tracksuits and shell suits.
Can confirm
suit is a cloth.... it depend to their job
😂😂😂
Lol x 10000
Robert Edwards Nice video
Raphael, the kinda guy to tailor his birthday suit for that classic tapered look.
U r funny for that
Garety Woodrick your mom.
Razo I like burgers.
@@billysinge8977 take the compliment ya dork :)
Garety Woodrick oh! Well thanks man I appreciate that!
Please, please, please make a video on the French, German and Austrian styles too! I realise there is no good reason for it to be a high priority, but learning these such things is why I always click so fast on your uploads!
there is a very good reason for this….hugo boss 😏👌
@@davidpetersen566 Just found out Hugo Boss designed the uniforms of the Germans during WW2.
No wonder I always wanted to wear an M35 uniform in public without the swastika band of course.
@@TheRealFocalors he didn't actually design the SS uniforms. their factory was forced to produce them.
americans - ice cream that's melting under the sun
british - ice cream that's too frozen, you have a hard time scooping
italian - gelato.
"you look like melted ice cream"
Sweden - you can use it and mash a duck. 😁
Slav - tracksuit
Vero.
Ice cream is italian lol
I fell in love with Italian suits after watching the movie "Bicycle Thieves", a classic movie made during the Italian Neorealism film movement. It stars the average working man, with a casual suit that almost looks comically too large for him. But it's brimming with personality, not to mention the movie itself is regarded as one of the best movies ever made, although it is quite sad, made in a time of hopelessness of living post WWII. anyway I'll stop feeling about movies now
Such a great film. Didn't know it was somewhat recognized even abroad.
@@lucianofrancesco4742 from my understanding, it is considered by many who study cinematic history or are film enthusiasts to be the quintessential film of Italian realism post WWII. At least, that's how I found it... you talk to anyone who cares to branch out of mainstream Hollywood or its cheap imitators worldwide, and Bicycle Thief is mentioned. Much like Band of Outsiders for French New Wave or any Kurosawa film from his various periods of styles.
The movie is an absolute classic. A true masterpiece of Italian cinema. I commend you sir, on your fine movie taste.
Yup, it's a classic
That pin-striped, double-breasted, English suit is perfection. It's the sartorial equivalent to the Rolls-Royce radiator grille. Would you, please, offer details on its availability?
He got it from Ralph Lauren. That’s all i know.
Ralph Lauren purple label.
no suit is perfection. they don't look good on built guys, only on flabby and skinny ones.
@@louiscyfer6944 disagree. You just have to find the correct style for your body type. The sort of modern skinny ankle revealing suit pants won’t work for that body type. Full cut trousers and a full cut jacket would look great
@@ForestTurtle have you seen a bodybuilder in a suit? it looks like a tent. the full cut jacket and trousers looks worse than anything.
I get my casual suits for work in Italy, if I need something more formal I go to London and for something stylish, Tokyo is definitely
my destination.
The best and clearest point of the video is “the american suit is named after the french term ‘saque’ meaning a potato sack”.
Ciao dall’Italia.
As an Italian who had lived in the UK and now resides in central Europe, I usually like to wear English suits in the fall-winter season and Neapolitan suits in the late spring. Which given their origins in connection to local weather I guess makes some sense...
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
You and Hugo jacomet should meet up. I’d love to see two people that have such a strong passion and knowledge of the sartorial world talk to each other and share that with us
I already saw a picture of them together on Instagram. As a frenchman, i follow and forward Hugo on both of his channels.
They both already are friends
We spent some time in Paris last year and I almost met up with Hugo but then I was offered to part of a PBS documentary so I had to fly to Rome, and we did not meet again at this house, but we will eventually meet up and make a video together I am sure
Top crossovers
@@gentlemansgazette What? How do I watch this PBS documentary!
The Japanese word 背広 should really be romanized as "sebiro". Unfortunately, this word is not really used anymore, and they just say スーツ "soo-tsu" to mimic the word "suit".
Don't let things like reality get in the way of his video claims. ;)
I WAS SHOOK HE DIDN´T SAY スーツ
Sebiro is in fact a misPronunciation of Savile Row
The change in lighting makes the channel look more professional, I'm not sure if that was your take for this episode. The improvement on video quality is impeccable!!!
Being from scotland i think it would be cool if you covered kilts and traditional scottish wadding gear in a video. (Also no, we don’t wear kilts 24/7, they itchy af)
@Mata Man I'm sure he knows traditional clothes very well lol
@Mata Man Given he knows a lot about tweed I am sure he can give it a go.
However as a fellow Scot I think its probably not his forte and he would probably want to avoid it.
For me the kilt and highland dress is very formal for weddings and anything black tie :)
For example I wore tweed and a kilt for my wedding.
@@nutyyyy it is probably not his forte, but the idea of him making a video wearing a kilt got me.
Isn't a kilt a bad idea in winter?
@@arx3516 They're surprisingly warm! The kilt is wool, our hairy legs are warm insulation, and our shocking plaid socks are made of wool as well! :)
I haven't watched your videos -or any other RUclips video for that matter- in a long time, but your videos haven't lost any of their excellence.
I honestly enjoy and learn from each one of them.
All the best
This video was better than anything the history channel has aired in two decades, so interesting. Please keep the content coming!
I was actually looking forward to you covering this concept, Raphael.
Although, I have not personally had the luxury of owning a tailored suit from Savile Row, from what I've seen, Henry Poole and Huntsman seem to have the most magnificent bespoke garments, out there. Also, there seems to be a great amount of quality tailoring starting to take form in countries such as Singapore, which utilise a mix of the styles you mentioned earlier, in your video.
All in all, this was a great video; keep up the good work!
You should check out Maurice Sedwell. They are the best that England has to offer in every possible way other than prices (which are the highest in England).
You have a great public speaking voice. Thanks for the information on suits
Great video once again. Very informative as always. The quality of the videos has stepped up a notch
Italian/ Napels is incredible, also the mills, just got an awesome Loro Piana sports jacket
I adore my Neapolitan suits in the summer. You can just feel that breeze come through it. Makes events like outside weddings when it in the 80s and 90s outside far more tolerable.
it good for summer...
I live 50km near loro piana facory ahahah
Except Loro Piano is from northern Italy.
Loro Piana is from the Biella province, north piedmont, I know because I live here😅
But they have more than one facility I guess, considering they sell internationally.
The colours black and dark blue used to be quite expensive which is why they were regarded as 'chique' (US: chic), a proof of being well-off. Your best suit or most expensive suit was black. Till this day, black, anthracite and navy blue are considered chique. In the old times, you could make something black, but to have a black that would be resistent to washing so it kept being black, that was quite another matter. Even today, that is difficult.
Bonus tip: Don't try "waist suppression" (4:18) in a pinstripe. But on the whole, Excellent video ! !
As a proud Australian who loves wearing suits, I'll always aim to wear Italian style formal suits made from wool because of the warmer climate in Australia.
Great video as always.
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
Can we expect a line off classic suits from Fort Belvedere? Maybe replicas of Sven's suits?
Maybe one day ...
@@gentlemansgazette Oooh. Why this teasing? I can't wait!
@@gentlemansgazette And rings also please!
There's very much a traditional tweed and woollen look here in the Uk right now, no doubt popularised by the Peaky Blinders TV programme. If you're into that, complete it with a 'penny collar' (small rounded collar) shirt. Nice!
I love this! Will you be doing a video/article on the other styles mentioned but not covered (Austrian, German, French, etc)?
Is there a Hungarian style? I would imagine that it is more similar to the British or with heavy British influence, something conservative.
As per usual, a very interesting and informative video. Each video gets better and better whether that be in the presentation, wording or even the humour. I've seen this channel go from just Sven and a mannequin to the youtube style and mannerism powerhouse it is today. When you reach 1 million subscribers, can you do something fun and different? It would be interesting to have the two of you make a comedy episode or something like that.
Thank you so much! I have been waiting for this video for about half a year!
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
Exactly like English style (understatement, wide shoulders, small waist, thick material, pure wool)
It's funny how suits and fedora have become formal, when they used to be the casual attire...
Also, Austrian peasants did wear suits as you can still see in Trachten. They didn't have a single formal fibre to them, but were tough and kept them warm.
"So what suit style is best? Obviously whatever John Wick was wearing"
There i fixed it for you :V
HE WORE SICILIAN. THINK ABOUT IT. CATACOMBS?
A company in Tennessee i believe makes something similar to a John Wick suit, runs upwards of 10k for the simplest one.
@@shadowspire Magic bulletproof interlayer included?
Great channel. Please do a video on suits designed for activity, like hunting, horse riding, and my favourite tango dancing. Most off the shelf jackets are too restrictive in the arm movement and ride up if you lift the arms, so good tailors make special hems for these activities.
I know nothing about suits but that suite he us wearing looks beautiful. Love the fabric, color, and quality look. Im jealous.
Amazing video and discussion, very much appreciated. I'm beginning to realize that wearing suits and accessories is like an artist's palate where you can genuinely mix and match to express your own uniqueness and individuality.
Ravi Peiris M.D.
Pic at 14:14 is the most flattering I've ever seen of you
I actually think his double breasted navy pin stripped suit is his most flattering.
That one and the DB pinstripe suit look amazing. Definitely a look I'd try to emulate. Very flattering indeed.
Italian - Very versatile and also modern, depending on where you go Italian blazers have pocket flaps and double vents (which I think looks neater when you have your hands in your pockets)
British - I would say both are very much equal but I give it to Italians for its versatility
Nothing else to be quite honest.
American - If you want to look like you have a loose cardboard box hanging on your shoulders
But all in all, it depends on your body type. I think with the appropriate tailoring any of the above should help, except American.
That british pinstripe DB suit is just fantastic.
Thank you, once again. You've pulled together into one superior package numerous topical elements which you've previously discussed. You nailed it.
In The Gulf we have the same things in our traditional clothes but we wear Thobe. Emirates, Saudi, Kuwait and the other gulf countries everyone has different traditional style.
Excuse me! What are we listening to in the background? I need to know:) I Like it very much!
British suit: "What a gentleman!"
American suit: "What a business man!"
Italian suit: *"Help there's a mobster"*
Italy sexy people and the best design in the world!
Yes
English suits are definitely my favourite. Looks the most stylish to me.
I have a video suggestion. How about a video that covers the history and social acceptance of a gentleman having a beard. I’ve noticed that in the 1800s and early 1900s that beards were a common. Later this changed and today we seem to be seeing a resurgence of the beard. It would be nice to learn more about the change in viewpoint on having a beard throughout the years.
I don't think the right world for Italian classic style, should be casual. Casual is something you were when you are on vacation. Italian clothes and styles are very different, and they are perfect for cerimonies, businesses, formal situations... it's not just casual. Always wrong people abroad talking about Italy. Also I would never use brown suits.
I think the word casual can be used, but not in the informal sense. I say this as a southern italian, we're "casual", in the sense that we have a more relaxed, easy going life pace and it reflects in our tailoring too. We tend to be that way even in more formal occasions, we hate to be rigid and upper-lipped even in important situations, and even if it's for a formal thing we want our clothes to appear more "relaxed"
Neapolitan style all the way. Fantastic video, Raphael!
Funny, first I didn't know about the dimples in the Neapolitan shoulder inlay and went back to the store. "Its meant to be like that." 🤔
Now it's become a trademark to proudly walk around with, for giving it a very stylish and natural look. 🙂
(Btw, I like both styles & wearing them interchangeably, especially the Saville Row and Napels style.)
Nice history and comparaison of English, Italian and American suits. Nice to learn that the modern suit was invented in London by Beau Brummel. The suit was a cavalry officer uniform worn by civilian. I like to wear light suit. I would like to make a suit out of silk.
I love gentlemans gazette on RUclips! Again a very interesting video! Thanks
Loved the video. I am much more conservative than you, but I appreciate your style. I am a beige, grey or blue guy period. No patch pockets, no cuffs, just conservative. The most common outfit I wear is a navy blazer with khaki or grey wool pants. I am a button down collar guy almost exclusively (LL Bean actually). I saw your video with blazers... but no brass buttons. I don't see too many blazers without them. Maybe I will have a look for one. I am retired now so I don't dress the way I used to. I was a teacher and the only one in the entire school to wear a tie every day until I retired. I usually wore a jacket to work, but took it off once I arrived. I have always used Prince Charles, William or Harry as my example. It would be nice to see a video on the Royal style. Thanks.
Wow, I never actually realized how different suits could be until I saw this video - I always just figured suits were suits! (Then again, I am a girl, so I wouldn't necessarily notice the subtle differences in men's suits...) Great video! :D :D
Here in Hong Kong there's been a recent sartorial shift from stiff English tailoring to Neapolitan flair given the tropical climate. Shops like The Armoury, Brycelands, Prologue, The Anthology are promoting that type of southern Italian style. My go-to suits now are Orazio Luciano and Dalcuore while the Huntsman is spending more time in the closet these days. Ciao!
Got a Hong Kong suit jacket hand down my grandfather had tailored in 60s loved it, dark grey
Love to see a follow-up video on French and German styles.
I don't think it's fair to say that American suits are less refined as a negative comment. They're not supposed to look refined. They're supposed to look relaxed, casual, and almost sporty. The American style is almost a relaxed version of the British style. True, if you don't like Prep, they're probably not appealing, but I wouldn't say that they're unsophisticated. The hallmark of American preppy style is that your clothes are supposed to look appropriate at the office, out lunch, at the country club, etc. Classic American suits reflect that ethos.
(Are they my favorite? No. I like the classic British military cut, like Huntsman does, but that's beside the point.)
Morgan Glines Thank you, for defending the honorable sack suit
Love this video I love wearing suits wear them every single day.
Where and how do you get Italian suits, pants, suspenders, etc. I am in an Asian country.
Raphael you covered suits with simplicity & not to overlook da Kingsman Tie 🤟😎👍
This is fantastic, Raphael! One of my favorites from you...not that it matters but fuller pleated pants are coming back. Makes you quite the trend setter ;)
This is a very informative video, Mr. Schneider. Thank you!
This is an excellent addition to your already blossoming channel. I've learned alot in this episode and well give it a second and viewing. Best of Luck to all at Gentleman Gazette for all your passion, and I will continue watching.
I have two 1950s American suits, a 60s British tweed sport coat, and an 80s Italian suit. All from different styles and eras but still very cool nevertheless, the collection grows !
You must understanding style first and the moment of the day to wear wich one and wich colours where
hmmm being 22 and in eastern europe its a hard choice, to look casual in a full suit aaand we have different seasons. wish me luck on buying my first suit from a tailor lol.
Matufa Music good luck
Check out Boggi also.
Will we see the video about some features in other country`s tailoring, such as German and French? It will be educating since most of the people out threre know very little about it.
A very thorough comparison, characteristic of Gentleman’s Gazette. Well made. Reminds me of Hugo Jacomet, who did a similar video.
Because I'm a very large person both in height and a bit of portlyness I typically fall into a loose and relaxed look of a morning coat, a simple waistcoat and a usually open collar. Also I like the very popular in the 30s both here in the US and England of mixing colors and textures. Also full cut pants. (Often I get away with a charcoal denim jeans) although I tend to air on the more northwestern looks from the late 19th century (hence the morning coat as all day ware)
Could you please make another video about the Spanish and the German suit?Because I'm going on vacation in Germany soon.
I live in Florida but I prefer British style suits so you can imagine my challenges. Also as much as I prefer the appearance of British suits I prefer silk as a fabric.
I like what I can see of the jacket you are wearing now. I wish you would utilized the button-down collar shirts. That's all I will wear. I am a fan of that style. I have what I believe is the perfect suit from Nordstrom's - dark grey with three button coat. I got it 25 years ago - I'm retired now and have gained weight so I can't wear it. But I keep it as the absolutely perfect example of the American suit.
very nice. learned a lot. gonna search for some bespoke suits for myself.
Grüß Gott, Raphael! Can you make a video or article about German and Austrian cuts? I am moving to Austria from Colorado soon.
Great review of the history of each style!!
Anyone else appreciate that jazzy drum beat throughout?
Very interesting video! However the suit was originally envisioned by Charles 2nd who wanted British people to have an identity and dress that looked less French. Part of the outfit was the Cravat or Croat which was a decorated fabric that women would tie around the necks of their husbands in Croatia.
Would you do a video on the regional differences between the Italian suits. Would love to know the difference between Milan and Sicily and Naples.
For the last couple of years I've noticed TV hosts wearing suits with the pant waist cut very low and jacket cut so it opens at the bottom to show the shirt and tie above the waistband. I really don’t like this style, yet the last time I shopped for a suit I was shown many of those and rejected them. I'm heavy set and those make me look even fatter and like the jacket is too small for me. What type of suit would you recommend for the more portly gentleman who still wants to look well dressed?
Any plans to do the other European styles? I'm more casual, but have 2 jackets I love, a heavy tweed in bluish grey and cherry-red lines from Brook Taverner and an interesting blue jacket from Norway by Frislid, with a white thread interwoven in the fabric, it's a very nice colour. Any tips?
I have an athletic build and I love a British style chalk stripe in blue or grey and I have a few, but not too much shoulder padding. To much padding makes me look like Arnold Schwarzenegger! I also love Brooks Brothers suits and Italian suits. No point in closing. Get them all!
I got mine from Redmayne 1860. Thomas Mahon, the proprietor learned his cutting at A&S. Pays to shop around, even on "The Row".
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
So what kind of suit is the presenter wearing?
I love the colour.
English, heavy fabric with Italian style pockets, etc.
Love those videos. Keep it up!
Really elegant, excellent and gives man a good posture and fitness.
Perfect video! Thanks for explaining!
British suit jackets are meant to be kept buttoned even when you sit down which is not the case with US or Italian.
Thank you for this, greetings from the Netherlands!
I like Dutch suites , have several from a shop in London
Remembering the 80’s in New York. Armani suits had the “Fall off the Shoulder” look, appearing almost as if, the wearer slept in it overnight. Like a pajama.
Harris tweed herringbone in a rather slim fit cut,the coolest looking suit i ever had.
I'am actually really curious and would like to also see the others suit styles e.g. German.
Maybe a second part with the others? I would appreciate that.
Alexander Stumpf the elephant in the room is not German but French style
Look up "Hugo Boss" for his... "worldwide fashion style".
Very informative... Thank you
I really like the suit at timestamp 14:14. Is this a specific american style? Where can I look these up? Thanks
For me, I really love the British suit fit and silhouette but the years haven’t been too kind to me. The fit of the American style fits my broad and father body much easier and more comfortably than the British style. Italian was never an option as it’s far too slim for my chest and legs. I do have a couple “well fitted” suits for when the occasion calls, but for the most part, the American sack suit is what I’ll reach for
Another fantastic video. I love that brown suit.
Love these videos 👍🇬🇧🇺🇸🇮🇹
The 80s suit style is definitely my favourite
Great video!
Okay now I challenge you, how can you NOT fall in love with this guy. He is actually my 1950's spirit animal! 🤣
Thanks, Raphael. French suits?
Great video, but a lot of mistakes in the sack suit description; undarted doesn’t mean boxy, they were cut very slim with straight hanging lines. The trousers were always tapered with cuffs. Very common misconceptions.
Did you get a new camera? The video looks great.
No, we just played a bit with the lighting.
Great combo suit and tie
The German suit in the 30s and 40s with Prussian heritage by its wasp shillouette is very cool and I love the German suit fashion and it’s militaristic touch (mostly non-flashy suits, wide shoulders, small waist, thicker material, mostly wool)
Excellent video. Very well researched with lots of detail.
Somewhat caused by some Asian movies, double-breasted suits with pinstripes look quite informal to me as an Asian. Much more less formal than a single-breasted suit in black, navy or very dark grey or blue in plain fabrics. I've heard that double breasted jackets were used to avoid wearing a dayvest when three piece was a thing so single breasted would be even more formal (not applying to frock coats, morning dress and tailed stuff