Thanks so much for this Andre. Fitted mine yesterday. Took 3 hours as I removed all the bodywork but would have been twice as long without your help with this video and the bodywork removal / refitting ones !
@@PeakMotorcycles just wondering if you now want to remove the plastics do you have to remove just the crash bars part and not the whole assembly I'm sure you may have mentioned it in the video 🤔 the bar do look good though
@@gnarlybadger690 I have a Flatland Racing CRF300 Rally radiator guard to fit. I expect I'll find out quite soon! I expect I will, and it'll be in that video!
Awesome! Quite a few folks have asked me how strong they are and I haven’t crashed yet 🤣. Good to know they’ve protected one bike from concrete already!
Just put my set on my 300 Rally today. A bit of a headwrecker at times but got there in the end. Very well made product all round and happy with the final fit. Will tighten up fully and put bodywork back on later in the week. Enough spannering for now. 😂
You now have the joy of anticipating your first crash, and after you’re safe and have dusted yourself off, to check that they are doing their job. May the wait be long!
... 06-15-2023 ... Just found your channel and subscribed with a bell. 👍 ... I am consuming all the CRF 300 L and Rally info possible. ... Thank you for taking the time do film and edit the video. It was very detailed and seemed to leave nothing out. I know it takes more time than some may think for videos.. I have a BUNCH of fishing videos I have yet to edit and post. . With the CRF 300's (and the other bikes that use the same engine) not available anywhere due to production stopping, on 5-31-2023 I was lucky to find a used 2021 Rally with 1944 miles a couple of hours away. It already had a LOT of upgrades including the crash bars. Because they were already on I cannot notice the weight gain in a negative way. Looking forward to learning more all the time about this bike. For 13 years I raced Moto-X, Hare Scrambles, Enduro's and GNCC long ago. Getting into Dual Sport and ADV riding now. Thank you again, . Jeff .
Thanks Jeff, you’re welcome! Making videos seemed easier during lockdown when there was nothing else to do. I have a backlog of about a dozen to do that I really need to find the time for, but after 5 weeks of travelling, and now a festival every other weekend for a few weeks… maybe by winter I’ll have got some more done…
I really appreciate your patience, and attention to detail. While none of this installation is too technically difficult, it is very tedious. I get the impression, though, that you kind of enjoy the fiddly bits. I’d love to have these on my Rally, but I’m not sure I want to add ten pounds of weight to the bike. If I did opt for the crash bars, I take them to my local Honda shop to instal. I have my KLR 650 in the local Kawasaki shop now, changing out all the body plastics from red to black. Also adding ( hopefully ) a set of Bark Busters hand guards to replace the ‘sugar scoops’ OEM hand guards. At 113,000+ kilometers she still runs and handles like new.
‘Enjoy’ is a strong word 🤣. If I had more time it would be great, especially for the tedious tasks. The problem I have is that I don’t know it’s fiddly until I do it. The Outback Motortek install videos are quite good, but the do skip over some of the important (and fiddly!) bits. Even on the pannier frame video, they don’t mention the battery box problem, and that takes 60-80% of the install time. On the plus time, I’m suffering so others don’t have to 🤣. It’s a plus for them mainly. I’m sure your local garage will appreciate the business, should you decide to go ahead.
As yours, my badges were upside down and the crossbar hit my mudguard. I removed the four front mudguard bolts and refitted with 5mm spacers which actually gave 10mm clearance on the crossbar.
Aye, it seems to be a ‘feature’. Not much room for modification though. I suggested a slightly smaller tube, perhaps with a thicker wall, to maintain the strength? (18mm vs 22mm) moving it 4mm closer to the bike would be enough not to rub.
Driving impact forces through the crash bars is great to protect the pretty, "low" cost plastics, but I'm not sure the engine and frame were designed to absorb those large point loads. For long term mechanical durability, may be better to let the plastics get dinged up.
The side panels on the Rally are pretty expensive (not BMW expensive, but CRF300 expensive!) about £250/side. That's £190 for the two panels and £60 for shipping from Thailand. So probably £300+ per side. And you're right, it's not that expensive, but it's enough to be annoying if you have a silly low speed off. (Which I have!) I guess I was looking to see what's out there and what might work. For me the bigger problem with the bars is the weight, and where it is located on the bike. That's a fair bit of weight high up, and if, like you say, it isn't really giving the required protection, is it extra weight for nothing? Itchy Boots has a set on hers, so it'll be interesting to see how they last. There are several bolt on points, and with the crossbar too, I'd like to think that there is a reasonable amount of force distribution, but we shall see.
Thank you for the great video! I ordered my set a few weeks back, hoping they come soon. Still snowing in Denver, Colorado, so I have some time before I hit the trails!
Thanks for answering my forum question earlier regarding the accessory socket cap. I've recently bought these crash bars so thanks for vid. Instead of procrastinating about when to fit it's inspired me to pay 90 quid for my local bike mechanic to do it. Far too fiddly for me.
Thanks for posting this Andre. I just got my rally this month and am considering these bars. You posted this a year ago- what are your thoughts about these bars after a year of riding? Worth the money? Do you have to remove these bars first if you need to work in the engine or take the plastic off?
Hi, I took them off after a few months…. They do the job of protecting the upper plastic, but I’ve yet to have an off where the upper plastic has taken a hit. Also they are quite heavy, and having that weight high up is more noticeable than at the bottom of the bike. I was going to mount some spots on the bars, but then decided fork mounts were better. You do have to remove them to access the spark plug, and it’s quite a lot of work and not something I’d wish to do on a trail if the bike was flooded. I also met a couple of folks at last years ABR who had had an off on soft ground and the bars had protected the bike, but also bent the bracket for the dash as the upper mounting point for the bars isn’t particularly strong. So all in all I decided they were not for me and I took them off. The only crash protection I have now is Kodama Composites side panels and skid plate. Each to their own though, and if you like the look, the options for crash bar luggage and/or the option to add spotlights, then I think they make sense.
The bike looks even more intimidating, how's the handling now and power delivery after fitting everything, I love this build, the best I've seen so far;
Hi, unfortunately it’s constrained by the Euro5 ECU and the weight savings are balanced out by the new stuff, so not a great difference overall. It handles way better with the new suspension though. I’m not finished either; Kodama have some new carbon fibre side protectors, so I think the bars will come off and be replaced with those and a flatland radiator guard. Saturday will be busy!
I am thinking of getting a 300l Rally. Are these worth the weight for the protection you get? Or would you recommend not getting these and just buy new plastics as they break? Not sure what is more cost effective, these crash bars vs replacing the plastics. Great videos on the 300, keep it up!
So far, I don’t know. My guess is probably not. Though until I have a proper crash on them, it’s difficult to say. They are 5kg that could otherwise be avoided, though once on, I don’t really notice them.
Awesome video's Andre. I have also installed the crash bars and am looking to install some Denali S4's. Have you thought about what you will install for lighting. Steve from A Bike Thing located in the Uk has Denali kits and good RUclips video's on install. I tipped my headlamp forward to locate the wiring before ordering the Denali's just to see if I can do the install myself. Would be nice to have a wiring diagram. I am hoping to install the DataDim and use the handlebar High/Low switch to run the lights. I want to use them as a day time running light. Cheers Brian
Ok, so I’m hoping you’re not stalking me or have hacked my YT, but the first video out after my London show videos is looking at the Denali DM’s and D2’s that I’ve bought (I have the datadim controller too…) I’d delayed the install as I wasn’t sure about brackets so ordered some from eBay via China after I’d done my bar install. I’m also hoping to use them as daytime running lights. Install video is probably 2-3 weeks away as I still have to install them, but will try to get to it next weekend. Cheers! (If you guess the next video before release, I’m changing all my passwords!)
super sturdy for sure but 5 kg more up high..... would not be a better compromise a sturdy radiator guard like the flatland? at the end what really need to be protected id the radiator ...L owner and not interested anyway but just wondering last week I took off the rear rack to safe a bit of weight but then I put I back on as I really value the handles to move the bike easier when I get stuck for sure all is tradeoff and user dependent ... nice video as usual
Yup 100%. (I have a flatland guard to put on. Will see what remains on the bike after that.) Loved your Southern England TET trip reports. It looked like a lot of fun!
@@PeakMotorcycles yeah it was my first real dirt solo adventure! so glad I survived!! many more to come! may come up your side as well loved the peaks on road and I bet is even better off!!
@@silvioperugini5890 aye, there’s quite a lot of choice for both. If you’re doing it solo, happy to suggest a few places, and if you fancy a ride out, happy to show you too. 👍
Not yet. It’s on the list of things to do, but as the stock battery works just fine, I was going to wait until it needs replacing. It’s a popular and straightforward thing to do though.
Thanks for the video. My CRF300L Rally is on order but no ETA as yet. I like the looks of these crash bars and can put up with the additional weight. In the video you mention your Arrow exhaust? Anymore info on why the change from MotoX? Thanks again and keep them coming.
Hi, will see about the weight. I have a flatland racing radiator guard, and if that gives some protection, for a lot less weight, perhaps that will be the final solution. That said, will see what it’s like. Some bikes come with upper bars like that and folks leave them on, so we shall see. Good luck for yours coming soon. For the exhaust, I was interested to know what it was like. Especially if it is both lighter and quieter than stock. Though it’s not really enforced in the UK, I’d rather keep the bike road legal if I’m putting videos of it up on RUclips!
@@PeakMotorcycles Thanks, I could not find a US distributor on their web site. Very pricey on this side of the pond. $250 plus $58 flat rate shipping, and on back order for 6 weeks, Thanks Covid.
Hi Andre, I enjoyed this one. I plan on putting the crash bars on my bike too. Curious, what is the microphone set-up you use while filming? It is good. Thanks.
Hi, just so you know, I ended up taking the crash bars off after a while. They are heavy, make accessing the spark plug difficult and a chap had a light crash with them at the ABR Festival last year and they damaged the upper mounting point and bent the bars. I know OM have crash test videos but they test on hard surfaces that slide, not soft surfaces where the bars dig in. The microphone setup is a Rode Go2 wireless mic and I use the matching Rode Lav mic connected to the Go2 transmitter if it’s just me doing things in the garage.
@@PeakMotorcycles Hi Andre, Thanks for the info about the microphone. I thought it might be the Rode Go2. It seems a popular choice. I knew about the crash bars being heavy, but what happened to that chap's bike concerns me. However, I have them on pre-order already. I might give them a go first.
Hi Andre. Love all your vids on the Rally as I have just acquired one myself. I was wondering if you have kept a running net weight gain/loss on your mods to the bike to date?
Hi Ray, I haven’t I’m afraid. If we have another lockdown, I’ll have a check through my videos and make a note of the changes for anything still on the bike.
Notes: you mentioned to do the exhaust swap/change before the crash bars (thank you for mentioning that btw) But, if you're going to be installing a Denali Soundbomb or the like (any aftermarket horn really, kind of needed if you're going to be using it to commute ~90% of the time and/or your commute involves the U.S. Interstates) I believe you'/d also want to do that BEFORE the crash bars are installed? I saw where the horn was mounted, but I didn't see the wiring or anything for it, so I imagine you'd also have to take off the bodywork to install a new horn as well. If someone changes their rear suspension do they also need bodywork to be removed? Should crash bars just be the absolute last mod done to the bike?
Yup, anything that requires the bodywork removal should be done before the bars go on. I work from home, and live in the countryside, so a horn isn't on my shopping list, yet, though I was thinking of removing the bars... access to the spark plug in the event of a deep water crossing might be a problem. My plan B is to replace them with a Flatland radiator brace and Kodama Composites now have some kevlar side protectors.... that video might be coming up soon when I get the edit finished!
55 nM if someone is wondering what the torque values are for the upper and lower front engine bolts according to the original workshop manual for the 300L Rally.
I see you had no problem getting the brackets to fit with your arrow exhaust. I have a motox exhaust and there just isn't enough room to mount the bracket. The space between the engine and header are closer than the stock header. I also see you have a video installing amotox exhaust. Did you switch exhausts do to problems with the motox?
Hi, I switched to try and find something lighter and quieter! The Arrow was the only homologated exhaust available at the time and did both. That said, I no longer have the crash bars on my bike. I decided for the extra weight, and crash risk, I was better off without them. I also know a few folks who had an off with them and they bent the front dash/Nav bit on the bike on impact.
@@PeakMotorcycles so the front dash bent in a crash while they were using these bars? Did you add a different set of crash bars, or have you decided to run without them? Thanks for your input.
Thank you for all your videos. Very useful and well made. I was thinking about this crash bar vs the one from src moto that is more of engine guard bash plate combo. But src moto claims that the attachment point under the headlight is weak and causes damage to that assembly even with minor drops. Outbacks protection attaches to that point. I am not sure if the lower crash bars from src moto alone would be sufficient. You might have researched it. What is your thought on this?
Hi, yup, it was a concern, but if you look up outback Motortek’a crash test videos, they’ve been harsh to theirs. I think the upper mounts are a weak point, but the OM bars are braced and mounted so most of the strength is towards the back. The cross bar in particular is heavy duty and is bolted twice on each end. I’d like to think that in the event of a crash, that crossbar would take most of the load. That said, I haven’t tried the SRC ones, so can’t really say one way or the other for those.
@@PeakMotorcycles My concern is the same as Mohan's. I wish someone would share a real-life experience of which part of fairings (higher or lower) is more susceptible to damages. OM tested only flat surfaces. I wonder if the lower part of your fairings is now better protected. I wish you a million followers, great job!
@@marekczy FWIW, I took a slide off-road at around 40 km/h. Bike slid forward on its side through a single fairly small stone (~ 15 cm in diameter) slightly protruding through dirt and grass. Middle cowl plastic broke in two pieces roughly through the middle. The bracket in question did bend outwards. The bracket welded at the front of the tank (the other top holding point of the front cowl plastic) also got bent. The front cowl plastic was visually deformed, but only slightly cracked at the lower end (I ended up keeping it and only replacing the destroyed middle cowl). So yes, this bracket is indeed a weak point. But it is possible that the bars will actually reinforce it by distributing pulling force back to the cross bar section. Don't quote me on this though, it is only speculation. Drops seem to be a non-issue for the stock plastics. I've dropped the Rally more than 15 times, including a couple times on asphalt. The only signs are paint scratches on the most protruding part of the panels.
Just got rally with these bars already fitted. They are like a stunt cage. I used to have 954rr with 5kg stuntcage that I took off and on. I could feel that weight even on that size bike.
Hi Brian, no, not at all. It barely touches and there’s so much flex in the front fender that I don’t notice at all. I know others who have done it and didn’t notice until it rubbed the powder coat off. It doesn’t rub it off because it’s a hard contact, more that it’s where mud gets flicked which makes a great grinding paste, which over time, can work with the front fender to wear through. I’ve put some helicopter tape on mine and it’s fine.
@@PeakMotorcycles thanks for the info! These crash bars will probably be one of my first mods on my Rally, so your video was timely. Thanks again and ride safe.
HEAD UP TO EVERYONE. MOTO X V2 full exhaust is not compatible with this crash bar. The braket blocks off where the header goes. Yes i even took the pipe off to make sure and we confirmed they dont work together. Ive spoken to a rep and they are now aware of it. Will be sending pictures to them.
There would be. In fact I think they have to come off to access the spark plug. A few folks have asked about that, and I now have a flatland racing rad guard, and fork mounts for my spotlights, so the bars will probably be coming off. There will be videos.
They look cool. Unfortunately they are basically $600 to get them here in the USA. My chances of destroying $600 in fairings isn't that great. I see many Rally owners pound the hell out of there 300 Rallys off road without bars and there fairings hold up fine. That being said, they do look cool and if they were lighter (solid PVC maybe) and cost $225 shipped I would order a set.
I think it’s cheaper to get them from the US distributor instead of shipping from the UK. They are $250 if you get them from the US website. outbackmotortek.us/product/honda-crf-300rally-crash-bars/
Hi, Not that I know of. There are some more wrap around bash guards that offer some more protection though. (I should also add that I’ve now taken mine off my CRF)
Yes, only Rally I’m afraid. The top bolts fit into the fairing bolt holes which go into the dash tower. The L doesn’t have that, so there would be nowhere to attach them at the top. That said, the L doesn’t have the exposed bodywork that the Rally has, so I don’t think you’d need them either. And they are heavy!
I really wish they would had used aluminum! I would have liked to have had them in the event I laid the bike down on the trails, in the dirt, just to protect the bike cosmetically. But 10.5lbs?! That’s a bit much...
Hi, which country are you in? Outback Motortek have distributors around the world. This is their UK site, but it makes sense to get one from closer to you if there is a local importer. outbackmotortek.co.uk/product/honda-crf-300rally-crash-bars/
Crash bars are for those who plan to... well anywho... Not a good idea to daydream while adventure riding. As Honda says... Stupid Hurts!🤪 Drive safe you all!✌🍻
Hi, I did, but I torqued them (and everything else) up after to spec. It just takes a while to look up each measurement and set and tighten, and these videos are already way too long!
@@PeakMotorcycles ah so you torqued them to 55nm as well? I did & was afraid it was too much for these aftermarket bolts. Heard a weird pang sound seemingly coming from there as the engine cooled down after a long ride (contracting the steel) that i didnt hear before. Maybe I am just being too paranoid. These bolts are only to attach the engine to the frame right?
Not sure. I have a radiator guard too which I have yet to fit. I’ll put it on and let you know how they work together. Worth the weight is tricky. I don’t really notice them being on, despite the weight, if that helps?
En qué país estás? Están fabricados por Outback Motortek, pero tienen distribución en el país en la mayoría de los casos. Este es el sitio de la UE: outback-motortek.eu/
🤣 anything that’s not on the bike any more has been sold for near enough what I paid for it. I think I’m somewhere around £2.5-3k in extras, so around 8.5k-9k total. Luckily the fabulous wealth that RUclips provides means that most of this extra cost will be recovered in the next 100 years or so 🤣
That would be great from a weight perspective. Not sure about the cost (for titanium). Also both aluminium and titanium are less elastic than steel. I’m sure they could be made tough enough, but again, it’s probably a cost thing.
🤣 This year has been unusual… nearly 30kg lost. All it took was a type-2 diabetes diagnosis, high ketones and 4 months of diet change and exercise. At this rate I’m going to need new suspension 😳
These crash bars are very bad, do not buy them, they will bend at the first drop and touch the plastic. They don’t protect the bottom plastic and will also bend your brake pedal or gear selector. The upper mounting point (the headlight) is very weak and will bend as well. OM actually (for real) tell you that they bend to absorb the impact, so you had to unbend them after every fall LOL good luck. These bars must be avoided !! The worse part is that they sell many because they still carry a good reputation, and they are good looking. Get the heavy duties.
I took mine off. Not for those reasons, more for the weight. I know some folks have reported the sort of damage you mention, but others have had crashes and the bars have done what was needed and protected the bike, so I’m not sure the bend at the first drop applies in all cases.
Well, many say the same. Of course they’ll take the hit and protect, they’re still here. But your bottom plastic will be damaged, your selector/brake likely to go scratch the engine cover, the bars will instantly bend and go touch the bike plastic. OM says they bend to absorb the impact, which is nonsense. You obviously don’t dismount your motorcycle between each fall in off-road. It’s not a one time use… OM know they are flawless and they refunded me actually. I’m buying the Heavy Duties, they seems really solid, protecting properly, and good mounting points.
![YoungBoy Never Broke Again - Sneaking [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/1ILUps2zDFU/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks so much for this Andre. Fitted mine yesterday. Took 3 hours as I removed all the bodywork but would have been twice as long without your help with this video and the bodywork removal / refitting ones !
You’re welcome Rob. What do you think about the weight?
@@robbutler2601 I had to look up the LGKS. That looks epic!
I was like 3 hours, I can do that in 2. Took me 3 hours :) Remember when taking off the bolts form the motor crank down on the right side.
What a job, the Outback crash bars on my 690 was a breeze. Very informative video for Rally owners
I should get a 690 🤣 Someone else said that after watching it, they decided to give it to their garage to fit them. Glad I’m keeping them in business!
@@PeakMotorcycles just wondering if you now want to remove the plastics do you have to remove just the crash bars part and not the whole assembly I'm sure you may have mentioned it in the video 🤔 the bar do look good though
@@gnarlybadger690 I have a Flatland Racing CRF300 Rally radiator guard to fit. I expect I'll find out quite soon! I expect I will, and it'll be in that video!
I bought these after watching your video and dropped my bike on concrete afterwards. They did a great job thanks!
Awesome! Quite a few folks have asked me how strong they are and I haven’t crashed yet 🤣. Good to know they’ve protected one bike from concrete already!
Just put my set on my 300 Rally today. A bit of a headwrecker at times but got there in the end. Very well made product all round and happy with the final fit. Will tighten up fully and put bodywork back on later in the week. Enough spannering for now. 😂
You now have the joy of anticipating your first crash, and after you’re safe and have dusted yourself off, to check that they are doing their job. May the wait be long!
... 06-15-2023 ... Just found your channel and subscribed with a bell. 👍 ... I am consuming all the CRF 300 L and Rally info possible.
... Thank you for taking the time do film and edit the video. It was very detailed and seemed to leave nothing out.
I know it takes more time than some may think for videos.. I have a BUNCH of fishing videos I have yet to edit and post.
.
With the CRF 300's (and the other bikes that use the same engine) not available anywhere due to production stopping, on 5-31-2023 I was lucky to find a used 2021 Rally with 1944 miles a couple of hours away. It already had a LOT of upgrades including the crash bars. Because they were already on I cannot notice the weight gain in a negative way.
Looking forward to learning more all the time about this bike.
For 13 years I raced Moto-X, Hare Scrambles, Enduro's and GNCC long ago. Getting into Dual Sport and ADV riding now.
Thank you again,
. Jeff .
Thanks Jeff, you’re welcome! Making videos seemed easier during lockdown when there was nothing else to do. I have a backlog of about a dozen to do that I really need to find the time for, but after 5 weeks of travelling, and now a festival every other weekend for a few weeks… maybe by winter I’ll have got some more done…
I really appreciate your patience, and attention to detail.
While none of this installation is too technically difficult, it is very tedious.
I get the impression, though, that you kind of enjoy the fiddly bits.
I’d love to have these on my Rally, but I’m not sure I want to add ten pounds of weight to the bike.
If I did opt for the crash bars, I take them to my local Honda shop to instal.
I have my KLR 650 in the local Kawasaki shop now, changing out all the body plastics from red to black.
Also adding ( hopefully ) a set of Bark Busters hand guards to replace the ‘sugar scoops’ OEM hand guards.
At 113,000+ kilometers she still runs and handles like new.
‘Enjoy’ is a strong word 🤣. If I had more time it would be great, especially for the tedious tasks. The problem I have is that I don’t know it’s fiddly until I do it. The Outback Motortek install videos are quite good, but the do skip over some of the important (and fiddly!) bits. Even on the pannier frame video, they don’t mention the battery box problem, and that takes 60-80% of the install time. On the plus time, I’m suffering so others don’t have to 🤣. It’s a plus for them mainly. I’m sure your local garage will appreciate the business, should you decide to go ahead.
This is perfect timing as mine are in the garage ready to fit 😁
All part of the service. Make sure you check the crossbar for contact with the mudguard.
As yours, my badges were upside down and the crossbar hit my mudguard. I removed the four front mudguard bolts and refitted with 5mm spacers which actually gave 10mm clearance on the crossbar.
Nice solution! Thanks
i’ve just fitted them to my Rallye same problem has you rubs the front mudguard , good video again m8
Aye, it seems to be a ‘feature’. Not much room for modification though. I suggested a slightly smaller tube, perhaps with a thicker wall, to maintain the strength? (18mm vs 22mm) moving it 4mm closer to the bike would be enough not to rub.
Great video as always. I’m waiting for these to come back in stock to purchase.
I had to wait a while. I’m sure they’ll turn up eventually. Good luck!
Nice looking bars, and robust no doubt.
Definitely robust. Maybe too robust 🤣
Another fantastic video 👍👍
Thanks Dylan.
Driving impact forces through the crash bars is great to protect the pretty, "low" cost plastics, but I'm not sure the engine and frame were designed to absorb those large point loads. For long term mechanical durability, may be better to let the plastics get dinged up.
The side panels on the Rally are pretty expensive (not BMW expensive, but CRF300 expensive!) about £250/side. That's £190 for the two panels and £60 for shipping from Thailand. So probably £300+ per side. And you're right, it's not that expensive, but it's enough to be annoying if you have a silly low speed off. (Which I have!) I guess I was looking to see what's out there and what might work. For me the bigger problem with the bars is the weight, and where it is located on the bike. That's a fair bit of weight high up, and if, like you say, it isn't really giving the required protection, is it extra weight for nothing? Itchy Boots has a set on hers, so it'll be interesting to see how they last. There are several bolt on points, and with the crossbar too, I'd like to think that there is a reasonable amount of force distribution, but we shall see.
Thank you for the great video! I ordered my set a few weeks back, hoping they come soon. Still snowing in Denver, Colorado, so I have some time before I hit the trails!
It’s been raining and damp most of the time since we returned home two weeks ago… enjoy the snow and I hope you have a warm garage!
Thanks for answering my forum question earlier regarding the accessory socket cap. I've recently bought these crash bars so thanks for vid. Instead of procrastinating about when to fit it's inspired me to pay 90 quid for my local bike mechanic to do it. Far too fiddly for me.
Supporting your local mechanic is important! 🤣
Thanks for posting this Andre. I just got my rally this month and am considering these bars. You posted this a year ago- what are your thoughts about these bars after a year of riding? Worth the money? Do you have to remove these bars first if you need to work in the engine or take the plastic off?
Hi, I took them off after a few months…. They do the job of protecting the upper plastic, but I’ve yet to have an off where the upper plastic has taken a hit. Also they are quite heavy, and having that weight high up is more noticeable than at the bottom of the bike. I was going to mount some spots on the bars, but then decided fork mounts were better. You do have to remove them to access the spark plug, and it’s quite a lot of work and not something I’d wish to do on a trail if the bike was flooded. I also met a couple of folks at last years ABR who had had an off on soft ground and the bars had protected the bike, but also bent the bracket for the dash as the upper mounting point for the bars isn’t particularly strong. So all in all I decided they were not for me and I took them off. The only crash protection I have now is Kodama Composites side panels and skid plate. Each to their own though, and if you like the look, the options for crash bar luggage and/or the option to add spotlights, then I think they make sense.
The bike looks even more intimidating, how's the handling now and power delivery after fitting everything, I love this build, the best I've seen so far;
Hi, unfortunately it’s constrained by the Euro5 ECU and the weight savings are balanced out by the new stuff, so not a great difference overall. It handles way better with the new suspension though. I’m not finished either; Kodama have some new carbon fibre side protectors, so I think the bars will come off and be replaced with those and a flatland radiator guard. Saturday will be busy!
Great videos . 👍 My badges were on backwards also 😎 on the crash bars . No problem ....they look great on the bike . 👍👍👍
#AussieStyle 🤣
I am thinking of getting a 300l Rally. Are these worth the weight for the protection you get? Or would you recommend not getting these and just buy new plastics as they break? Not sure what is more cost effective, these crash bars vs replacing the plastics. Great videos on the 300, keep it up!
So far, I don’t know. My guess is probably not. Though until I have a proper crash on them, it’s difficult to say. They are 5kg that could otherwise be avoided, though once on, I don’t really notice them.
Another good video Andre :-)
Thanks!
Awesome video's Andre.
I have also installed the crash bars and am looking to install some Denali S4's. Have you thought about what you will install for lighting.
Steve from A Bike Thing located in the Uk has Denali kits and good RUclips video's on install. I tipped my headlamp forward to locate the wiring before ordering the Denali's just to see if I can do the install myself. Would be nice to have a wiring diagram. I am hoping to install the DataDim and use the handlebar High/Low switch to run the lights. I want to use them as a day time running light.
Cheers
Brian
Ok, so I’m hoping you’re not stalking me or have hacked my YT, but the first video out after my London show videos is looking at the Denali DM’s and D2’s that I’ve bought (I have the datadim controller too…) I’d delayed the install as I wasn’t sure about brackets so ordered some from eBay via China after I’d done my bar install. I’m also hoping to use them as daytime running lights. Install video is probably 2-3 weeks away as I still have to install them, but will try to get to it next weekend.
Cheers! (If you guess the next video before release, I’m changing all my passwords!)
Another great video thank you. Just wish I’d have fitted some to mine before I dropped it 🤣
Me too 😳
super sturdy for sure but 5 kg more up high..... would not be a better compromise a sturdy radiator guard like the flatland? at the end what really need to be protected id the radiator ...L owner and not interested anyway but just wondering
last week I took off the rear rack to safe a bit of weight but then I put I back on as I really value the handles to move the bike easier when I get stuck for sure all is tradeoff and user dependent ... nice video as usual
Yup 100%. (I have a flatland guard to put on. Will see what remains on the bike after that.)
Loved your Southern England TET trip reports. It looked like a lot of fun!
@@PeakMotorcycles yeah it was my first real dirt solo adventure! so glad I survived!! many more to come! may come up your side as well loved the peaks on road and I bet is even better off!!
@@silvioperugini5890 aye, there’s quite a lot of choice for both. If you’re doing it solo, happy to suggest a few places, and if you fancy a ride out, happy to show you too. 👍
Top job bud 👍🏻
Cheers
Hi Andre, great channel, thanks. Have you replaced the stock battery with a lithium battery to help reduce weight?
Not yet. It’s on the list of things to do, but as the stock battery works just fine, I was going to wait until it needs replacing. It’s a popular and straightforward thing to do though.
Thanks for the video. My CRF300L Rally is on order but no ETA as yet. I like the looks of these crash bars and can put up with the additional weight. In the video you mention your Arrow exhaust? Anymore info on why the change from MotoX? Thanks again and keep them coming.
Hi, will see about the weight. I have a flatland racing radiator guard, and if that gives some protection, for a lot less weight, perhaps that will be the final solution. That said, will see what it’s like. Some bikes come with upper bars like that and folks leave them on, so we shall see. Good luck for yours coming soon.
For the exhaust, I was interested to know what it was like. Especially if it is both lighter and quieter than stock. Though it’s not really enforced in the UK, I’d rather keep the bike road legal if I’m putting videos of it up on RUclips!
Again another great video, only problem is we can't get these in the USA
Do you mean no stock, or no supplier?
I think they are here:
outbackmotortek.us/product/honda-crf-300rally-crash-bars/
@@PeakMotorcycles Thanks, I could not find a US distributor on their web site. Very pricey on this side of the pond. $250 plus $58 flat rate shipping, and on back order for 6 weeks, Thanks Covid.
@@123cedmondson 😳 Stupid Covid….
@@123cedmondson They’re made on this side of the pond, to the north in Canada. :-)
@@gzahnd Thanks found a local shop just 30 miles from me that carries them and should have a set in 3 weeks
Hi Andre, I enjoyed this one. I plan on putting the crash bars on my bike too. Curious, what is the microphone set-up you use while filming? It is good. Thanks.
Hi, just so you know, I ended up taking the crash bars off after a while. They are heavy, make accessing the spark plug difficult and a chap had a light crash with them at the ABR Festival last year and they damaged the upper mounting point and bent the bars. I know OM have crash test videos but they test on hard surfaces that slide, not soft surfaces where the bars dig in.
The microphone setup is a Rode Go2 wireless mic and I use the matching Rode Lav mic connected to the Go2 transmitter if it’s just me doing things in the garage.
@@PeakMotorcycles Hi Andre, Thanks for the info about the microphone. I thought it might be the Rode Go2. It seems a popular choice. I knew about the crash bars being heavy, but what happened to that chap's bike concerns me. However, I have them on pre-order already. I might give them a go first.
Hi Andre. Love all your vids on the Rally as I have just acquired one myself. I was wondering if you have kept a running net weight gain/loss on your mods to the bike to date?
Hi Ray, I haven’t I’m afraid. If we have another lockdown, I’ll have a check through my videos and make a note of the changes for anything still on the bike.
I was about to ask this same question.
@@0HARE same answer I’m afraid. One day I’ll check through.
Notes:
you mentioned to do the exhaust swap/change before the crash bars (thank you for mentioning that btw)
But, if you're going to be installing a Denali Soundbomb or the like (any aftermarket horn really, kind of needed if you're going to be using it to commute ~90% of the time and/or your commute involves the U.S. Interstates) I believe you'/d also want to do that BEFORE the crash bars are installed? I saw where the horn was mounted, but I didn't see the wiring or anything for it, so I imagine you'd also have to take off the bodywork to install a new horn as well.
If someone changes their rear suspension do they also need bodywork to be removed? Should crash bars just be the absolute last mod done to the bike?
Yup, anything that requires the bodywork removal should be done before the bars go on. I work from home, and live in the countryside, so a horn isn't on my shopping list, yet, though I was thinking of removing the bars... access to the spark plug in the event of a deep water crossing might be a problem. My plan B is to replace them with a Flatland radiator brace and Kodama Composites now have some kevlar side protectors.... that video might be coming up soon when I get the edit finished!
@@PeakMotorcycles That would be fantastic! Can''t wait to watch it!
55 nM if someone is wondering what the torque values are for the upper and lower front engine bolts according to the original workshop manual for the 300L Rally.
Thank you!
I see you had no problem getting the brackets to fit with your arrow exhaust. I have a motox exhaust and there just isn't enough room to mount the bracket. The space between the engine and header are closer than the stock header. I also see you have a video installing amotox exhaust. Did you switch exhausts do to problems with the motox?
Hi, I switched to try and find something lighter and quieter! The Arrow was the only homologated exhaust available at the time and did both.
That said, I no longer have the crash bars on my bike. I decided for the extra weight, and crash risk, I was better off without them. I also know a few folks who had an off with them and they bent the front dash/Nav bit on the bike on impact.
@@PeakMotorcycles so the front dash bent in a crash while they were using these bars? Did you add a different set of crash bars, or have you decided to run without them? Thanks for your input.
Thank you for all your videos. Very useful and well made.
I was thinking about this crash bar vs the one from src moto that is more of engine guard bash plate combo. But src moto claims that the attachment point under the headlight is weak and causes damage to that assembly even with minor drops. Outbacks protection attaches to that point. I am not sure if the lower crash bars from src moto alone would be sufficient.
You might have researched it. What is your thought on this?
Hi, yup, it was a concern, but if you look up outback Motortek’a crash test videos, they’ve been harsh to theirs. I think the upper mounts are a weak point, but the OM bars are braced and mounted so most of the strength is towards the back. The cross bar in particular is heavy duty and is bolted twice on each end. I’d like to think that in the event of a crash, that crossbar would take most of the load.
That said, I haven’t tried the SRC ones, so can’t really say one way or the other for those.
@@PeakMotorcycles My concern is the same as Mohan's. I wish someone would share a real-life experience of which part of fairings (higher or lower) is more susceptible to damages. OM tested only flat surfaces. I wonder if the lower part of your fairings is now better protected. I wish you a million followers, great job!
@@marekczy FWIW, I took a slide off-road at around 40 km/h. Bike slid forward on its side through a single fairly small stone (~ 15 cm in diameter) slightly protruding through dirt and grass. Middle cowl plastic broke in two pieces roughly through the middle. The bracket in question did bend outwards. The bracket welded at the front of the tank (the other top holding point of the front cowl plastic) also got bent. The front cowl plastic was visually deformed, but only slightly cracked at the lower end (I ended up keeping it and only replacing the destroyed middle cowl).
So yes, this bracket is indeed a weak point. But it is possible that the bars will actually reinforce it by distributing pulling force back to the cross bar section. Don't quote me on this though, it is only speculation.
Drops seem to be a non-issue for the stock plastics. I've dropped the Rally more than 15 times, including a couple times on asphalt. The only signs are paint scratches on the most protruding part of the panels.
These crash bars weigh a ton!
Yes they do. I took them off after a few rides.
Just got rally with these bars already fitted. They are like a stunt cage. I used to have 954rr with 5kg stuntcage that I took off and on. I could feel that weight even on that size bike.
Hi great Vid again tx did you torque the bottom bolts?
I did. I used the 250L torque values. (I don’t have them to hand as I’m away at the moment, but the 250L workshop manual is available on the internet)
Great video! Does the fact that the bars touch the front fender interfere with how the bike handles in your opinion?
Hi Brian, no, not at all. It barely touches and there’s so much flex in the front fender that I don’t notice at all. I know others who have done it and didn’t notice until it rubbed the powder coat off. It doesn’t rub it off because it’s a hard contact, more that it’s where mud gets flicked which makes a great grinding paste, which over time, can work with the front fender to wear through. I’ve put some helicopter tape on mine and it’s fine.
@@PeakMotorcycles thanks for the info! These crash bars will probably be one of my first mods on my Rally, so your video was timely. Thanks again and ride safe.
HEAD UP TO EVERYONE. MOTO X V2 full exhaust is not compatible with this crash bar. The braket blocks off where the header goes. Yes i even took the pipe off to make sure and we confirmed they dont work together. Ive spoken to a rep and they are now aware of it. Will be sending pictures to them.
Thanks. I’d already switched to the Arrow header when I put the bars on so good to know.
Hi I was wondering if after installing the crash bars if there is any scheduled maintenance where the crash bars would need to be removed for service?
There would be. In fact I think they have to come off to access the spark plug. A few folks have asked about that, and I now have a flatland racing rad guard, and fork mounts for my spotlights, so the bars will probably be coming off. There will be videos.
They look cool. Unfortunately they are basically $600 to get them here in the USA. My chances of destroying $600 in fairings isn't that great. I see many Rally owners pound the hell out of there 300 Rallys off road without bars and there fairings hold up fine. That being said, they do look cool and if they were lighter (solid PVC maybe) and cost $225 shipped I would order a set.
I think it’s cheaper to get them from the US distributor instead of shipping from the UK. They are $250 if you get them from the US website.
outbackmotortek.us/product/honda-crf-300rally-crash-bars/
@@PeakMotorcycles cool, Ill check it out.
Are there any lower crash bars that are compatible with this upper bars?
Hi, Not that I know of. There are some more wrap around bash guards that offer some more protection though. (I should also add that I’ve now taken mine off my CRF)
Do you have a link to the carbon fiber skid plate that you installed?
Here you go:
www.kodamacomposites.co.uk/honda
Hi ,I was wondering is this pc fit only rally?
Yes, only Rally I’m afraid. The top bolts fit into the fairing bolt holes which go into the dash tower. The L doesn’t have that, so there would be nowhere to attach them at the top. That said, the L doesn’t have the exposed bodywork that the Rally has, so I don’t think you’d need them either. And they are heavy!
I really wish they would had used aluminum! I would have liked to have had them in the event I laid the bike down on the trails, in the dirt, just to protect the bike cosmetically. But 10.5lbs?! That’s a bit much...
It is. I’ll try them for a while, but that may well be the reason I take them off again.
👍 where i cann buy thise Chras bars?
Google Outback Motortek and see if they have a distributor in your country.
Could you tell me the link to buy the crash bar please ?
Hi, it’ll depend on your country, but check out the Outback Motortek website for distributors: outbackmotortek.com/dealers/
@@PeakMotorcycles thank you ^ ^
@@PeakMotorcycles thank you ^ ^
I just bought Honda CRF 300 Rally. How and where can l get this crash guard?
Hi, which country are you in? Outback Motortek have distributors around the world. This is their UK site, but it makes sense to get one from closer to you if there is a local importer.
outbackmotortek.co.uk/product/honda-crf-300rally-crash-bars/
Please advice if you have any dealer in Philippines. I can also get it in Dubai, United Arab Emirates, if you have dealer in this country.
Crash bars are for those who plan to...
well anywho... Not a good idea to daydream while adventure riding. As Honda says... Stupid Hurts!🤪
Drive safe you all!✌🍻
Yup. I took mine off 🤣
You tightened the engine bolts without a torque wrench?
Hi, I did, but I torqued them (and everything else) up after to spec. It just takes a while to look up each measurement and set and tighten, and these videos are already way too long!
@@PeakMotorcycles what torque did you use for the engine bolts?
@@sayuas4293 front bolts (both of them) are 55Nm, rear bolts (not touched for this install) are 45Nm. If you have a service manual it’s page 2-41.
@@PeakMotorcycles ah so you torqued them to 55nm as well? I did & was afraid it was too much for these aftermarket bolts. Heard a weird pang sound seemingly coming from there as the engine cooled down after a long ride (contracting the steel) that i didnt hear before. Maybe I am just being too paranoid. These bolts are only to attach the engine to the frame right?
@@PeakMotorcycles so are you 100% sure that you torqued them to 55nm? I need to know that other people did it and the bolts could handle it.
Do you think this thing could get in the way of a radiator guard? Also now that you've had them for a while, think they are worth the weight?
Not sure. I have a radiator guard too which I have yet to fit. I’ll put it on and let you know how they work together. Worth the weight is tricky. I don’t really notice them being on, despite the weight, if that helps?
@@PeakMotorcycles Not even when lifting the bike?
Donde puedo comprar las defensas?. Gracias.
En qué país estás? Están fabricados por Outback Motortek, pero tienen distribución en el país en la mayoría de los casos. Este es el sitio de la UE:
outback-motortek.eu/
@@PeakMotorcycles muchas gracias
Bike has some bits on it now
, must stand you at 10 grand..
🤣 anything that’s not on the bike any more has been sold for near enough what I paid for it. I think I’m somewhere around £2.5-3k in extras, so around 8.5k-9k total. Luckily the fabulous wealth that RUclips provides means that most of this extra cost will be recovered in the next 100 years or so 🤣
Its to bad that the manufactures don`t make the crash bars in aluminum or titanium
That would be great from a weight perspective. Not sure about the cost (for titanium). Also both aluminium and titanium are less elastic than steel. I’m sure they could be made tough enough, but again, it’s probably a cost thing.
🤣🤣 Well you're a little porky like me so a few less pies then the weight of the bars will not be a problem.
🤣 This year has been unusual… nearly 30kg lost. All it took was a type-2 diabetes diagnosis, high ketones and 4 months of diet change and exercise. At this rate I’m going to need new suspension 😳
@@PeakMotorcycles Excellent now you can put more fruit on the bike 😂😂
Dont buy it bad fit, for that money you can buy better stuff.
I took mine off not long after fitting and now only have some carbon/Kevlar side protectors.
Brand?
@@MamolaRandy Kodama Composites
These crash bars are very bad, do not buy them, they will bend at the first drop and touch the plastic. They don’t protect the bottom plastic and will also bend your brake pedal or gear selector. The upper mounting point (the headlight) is very weak and will bend as well. OM actually (for real) tell you that they bend to absorb the impact, so you had to unbend them after every fall LOL good luck. These bars must be avoided !! The worse part is that they sell many because they still carry a good reputation, and they are good looking. Get the heavy duties.
I took mine off. Not for those reasons, more for the weight. I know some folks have reported the sort of damage you mention, but others have had crashes and the bars have done what was needed and protected the bike, so I’m not sure the bend at the first drop applies in all cases.
Well, many say the same. Of course they’ll take the hit and protect, they’re still here. But your bottom plastic will be damaged, your selector/brake likely to go scratch the engine cover, the bars will instantly bend and go touch the bike plastic. OM says they bend to absorb the impact, which is nonsense. You obviously don’t dismount your motorcycle between each fall in off-road. It’s not a one time use… OM know they are flawless and they refunded me actually. I’m buying the Heavy Duties, they seems really solid, protecting properly, and good mounting points.