How To: Honda CRF300 Rally Bodywork Removal 4K
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- Опубликовано: 26 июн 2021
- How To: Honda CRF300 Rally Bodywork Removal 4K
This video is how to remove all of the plastic panels from my 2021 Honda CRF300 Rally. You might need to do this to replace broken parts, access the electrics, replace the rear shock, battery, or even do some maintenance.
It's fairly easy to do, but working out the sequence takes some trial and error. I'd suggest the following order:
1. Seat and the rear plastic panel behind it
2. Right and left rear sections
3. The front of engine guard (Not the skid plate)
4. Right and left forward sections
I nearly got it right in the video, but I started '4' before realising it was bolted on to '3'. It was fine.
I hope this video is interesting and useful. If it is, please like and subscribe.
Thanks,
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Hi Andre. Thank you! Your videos are extremely useful for any CRF owner! You combine clear communication, strong technical knowledge, and excellent production values on these videos. Well done!
Glad to help!
This is the only video that's made consider the 300L over the Rally. I do like to be able to remove the panels easily for cleaning etc and this looks a bit of a hassle
Each to their own, so if that’s your thing, the L is more accessible but I don’t know how easy it is to remove the plastics. Some choose a bike for how it looks, how fast it goes, and how it rides. Others for ease of cleaning. Do whatever floats your boat, I’m sure it’ll be a blast.
@@PeakMotorcycles yeah not something your doing, I just noticed the yellow writing on the brake line that looks like it says 'fuel line's? Like they used fuel line instead of a brake line in the factory 😱 hopefully reading it wrong..
Enjoyed your vid and the series to date. For those of us still waiting on a Rally, these videos will certainly speed things up and remove some frustration through trial and error...
Happy to take on the frustration... ok, happy is a strong word. I edit out all the swearing and it takes ages :)
Thanks for making my life so much easier with the help of you vids
Happy to help
Andre, THANKS SO MUCH for doing this video. I cracked my fairing while doing some single track and your video was instrumental in me doing this myself (I'm typically not a DIY kind of dude). Much appreciated and keep them coming. THANKS AGAIN!!
Hi Emile, you are very welcome. When I was doing it I tried to find one, even for a 250 Rally so I thought it might be useful to someone. Even to me 🤣
very well done mister ......
Thanks
Hi, no need to remove the wire harness holder screws on the left panel, they just unhook with your fingers. Also the push pins for the left side forward panel are noted in the owners manual to remove.
Thanks, I realised that after, though if you make a lot of changes, do you think the bending will eventually fatigue the clips? You’d be amazed at how many people read the manual 😳
Thanks for showing, Andre. And staying cool and collected. Removing the CRF plastics is more complicated that I thought. Challenging when somewhere in the wilds, in the rain... Good luck from Günter/Nürnberg
Everything is harder to do in the rain ;) I guess the most you'd have to do when out and about might be to access the fuses? If you are stripping off the forward bodywork, something has gone seriously wrong...
@@PeakMotorcycles You keep cool, Andre, when confronted with imperfections by manufacturers. I like that.
Especially since I have rather short fuses coming across such unnecessary hurdles when accessing technology. As if the RAC is just round every corner to salvage a broken bike ;-)
Now we know how to handle the Rally plastics, thanks to you.
Thank you. You saved me a lot of time. Honda sure love those plastic push rivet connectors. Still have spare ones from when I owned a CBR 250R.
You are very welcome! I’d sort of hoped that someone else would done it before, at least for a 250 Rally if not the 300 but couldn’t find anything on RUclips so thought I might as well film my own trial and error. (And there was a lot of error!) The push rivets are great once you know how to open and refit them.
Enjoy the ride!
Wow looks like a colossal pain in the ass to remove the body panels, well done on a great video mate 👍🏆
It’s been lockdown. This counts as entertainment. A bit like doing a puzzle 🤣🥳
Thank you Andre for this video. Thiinking of purchasing a 300 Rally. Will be looking forward to see you future videos. Greetings from Sri Lanka!
Thanks Nazar, good luck with the bike!
Great video, super helpful for my exhaust install!
You’re welcome. I was a little surprised there wasn’t one out there already! I looked when I had to do mine and found nothing. Glad it was useful.
I just recently bought a 2022 Rally so I'm sure this will be useful to me. Thanks EE
I was trying to find a video, the Velcro on the tank was a bit of a surprise, and I couldn’t find one, not even for a 250 Rally, so as I had to do mine I thought I may as well record it.
Thanks, Andre. This was very helpful.
Just today I was trying to figure how to get to the battery of my Rally.
I’m looking to install a double USB power port for handle bar-mounted cell phone and GPS.
Changing out the battery for a lithium will probably happen then, as well.
I got my H2C rear luggage rack a couple weeks ago. I really like it.
Happy Trails
You know there’s already the 10A switched accessory socket just inside the left front fairing? It saves having to run wires back to the battery and is switched with the ignition key. The connectors, if you can find them, are Sumitomo HX-060 2-way waterproof connectors. I’ve tried to show the fitting and where it is in my Sat Nav install video.
Good luck!
@@PeakMotorcycles I was not aware of this!
Thanks for the tip!
Another great video, thanks!
Thanks again!
Great vid. Well explained and very helpful 🏍️💨
Glad it was helpful!
Very helpful. Thank you.
You’re welcome. I only did it as I tried to find a video on RUclips and couldn’t. I was stuck on the Velcro as it needs quite a pull to get it off.
Very useful, I might have struggled a bit and broke stuff without it... just took all mine off to clean and ACF-50 treat all the nooks and crannies... the two hex bolts with the rubber washers were in a different place either side, they match yours now so hope yours were right, the two clips for the cables I didn't unscrew I was able un curled the clip from the wires and left screws in situ. I've thread locked my screws in place... not sure whether I should have but taking them out felt like they had been... I'll find out at my first service if they shout at me😅😅
I should put something on the channel ‘watch me struggle so you don’t have to!’ 🤣 I must admit I tried to find a video before I did it. I couldn’t so gave up and did my own. Pulling off the Velcro bit (and finding it) was a leap of faith.
So... an evening of cleaning behind the panels might have to wait till I have a spare day at least lol. Great vlog. Thanks Andre
Dust gets everywhere, but if you leave the panels on, at least you can hide it!
@Peak Motorcycles this is true, its the riding in the UK winter that scares me most and my shed is a little damp at the moment so going to look to see if anything behind worthy of ACF50'ing.
Top job bud 👌🏻
Thanks.
Perfect video, thank you very much.
I have seen a easy mod where you can push the top fuse box where the side fuse box is so you can access both without removing the seat.
Sounds useful. I’ll take a look at that. Though I wonder if there’s a reason for keeping them separate? Deep water perhaps? The top fuse box is level with the snorkel so I guess you could go almost seat depth in water and keep that dry. I shall take a look.
Thank you for the video 🥰
You’re welcome.
wow that's quite a lot to remove for maintenance and cleaning I think I will rethink about it and go for the 300L when a bigger fuel tank will be available ( soon ) from IMS great videos by the way very informative I use Enduristan too they rocks!
Do you know if the fuel gauge still works with a larger tank on the L? Not the end of the world I guess. The L is definitely more of a trail bike, the Rally more of a road bike though both are pretty much the same underneath. Slightly larger front disk and harder springs on the Rally for the extra 10kg (5kg of which is fuel), otherwise same geometry, riding position, power etc. The L makes more sense in most cases I think.
@@PeakMotorcycles not sure ..... but as for me the tank is very important and with all cost and complication of having to install another tank I think the Rally makes more sense to me
@@silvioperugini5890 I’m sure you will have fun on whichever you choose.
Many Thanks!
You’re welcome. Daft thing really, I would have thought someone else would have done one. For the 250 if not the 300, but in couldn’t find one so thought I might as well! I hope it’s useful.
Nice and helpfully video! Is it possible to mount the gas tank of a CRF300Rally on a CRF300L? (I like the 300L but I need a bigger range)
Hi, Never tried, but I guess it would be, as they are the same frame and bike underneath. That said, it might be cheaper to get a Rally! You get slightly stiffer fork springs and the bigger front disk for the extra fuel weight. I expect there's a lot of extra bits needed to put the tank on, and I'm not sure if you also need to move the dash or if the L one would fit. I know Rally's are hard to find, but so are spare parts, so the fuel tank might be tricky to track down.
I guess other options might be to get the Outback MotorTek pannier frames and put a RotoPax on the left one? (I think they are doing a bracket where it fits on the inside)
I'm sure in time there will be larger aftermarket tanks, just not yet.
Hi Andre, great videos. Just took delivery of my CRF300L yesterday and have been watching your channel for a while gaining tips. Got the Rally Raid extended sidestand and your trick with the coins worked a treat, would never have done it otherwise. Any idea how the toolbox is removed? Found two screws under the seat/sidepanel but even with these removed it still wouldn't budge!
I think there’s another screw or two from the top. Take the seat and the rear bodywork off and shine a torch around and I think you’ll find it. (Can’t remember if there’s a third underneath…)
Thanks for the video. What is the best way to access /change the spark plug on the Rally?
Good question. I haven't had to do it yet. (My first service was free from the dealer). I'll take a look when I get home unless you beat me to it!
How could you stay so calm? Because of the camera? :) I thought my Versys-x was difficult to disassamble and not well thought out... Velcro between bodywork and fuel tank??? Jesus! I would be curious if you could use the 300L bodywork on the Rally... with some crash guards.
I hide it. (or edit it out) You don't get to hear the swearing or see the four times I try something before I finally find a way that works. As for the 300L bodywork, I'm sure some would fit, though perhaps not the panels around the fuel tank. A gap in the market perhaps for some enterprising business with an injection moulding machine?
@@PeakMotorcycles :) For the business: Honda should increase production because now there are very few CRF300s out there. The wait is long. And also: not sure if they sell those machines on aliexpress ;)
@@onthepegs kķ98⁹99kk99k⁹⁹ķkkkķ9jgjjïïjj
@@PeakMotorcycles íü
I tried to remove the left side panel and I failed. Now I know what I did wrong. I have overlooked that push rivet near the coolant reservoir.
🤣 it’s those little things! I was surprised there wasn’t a video of this already. I hope it’s useful!
Greetings Andre,
As usual very very informative video.🇺🇸🎉🍾🇺🇸
From which company should I order the lithium battery?
Tks.
No idea… I haven’t done it yet. I thought it was a bit wasteful if the stock battery was still ok. I was going to install a lithium when my stock one was at the end of it’s life. That said, in the UK I will probably use eBay. In the US, I guess you could do the same unless you have a nearby dealer?
Hi, is that an Abba skylift? Been looking for way to lift my crf250 rally...if that's the skylift is there a crf specific adaptor?
Good video, thanks, handy info for stripping my 250 for the first time 👍
Hi, yes, it’s an Abba Skylift. They don’t list a CRF adapter, but I’m using a 2018 Panigale adapter which is 2x 25mm adapters that fit the two lifting holes under the pegs.
@@PeakMotorcycles Thanks, good to know as had been considering one for my other bike but with the crf thought i'd end up going the table route, the abba looks the better option!
Have some filing to do though, the lip of the rhs lifting hole got folded over on my first green lane off...😐🙈
👍 nice
Funny really. I would have thought someone would have done it already….
Only thing you didn't do which I wish you did it show how to remove the storage box plastic. Had my bike for about a day and was dortriding. Gently dropped it and it snapped the box right of. Now I have to figure out how to replace it
My apologies. I think it’s 2 screws on the inside and one from underneath. It’s pretty straightforward if you have a torch and a cross head screwdriver.
@@PeakMotorcycles appreciate that I'm pretty good with mechanics. Just hate to do the whole trial an error lol. I'm debating on trying to glue the plastic bag together or replace the box and the plastic .
Are the lower panels doing anything useful? Could you lose them for more of a CRF300L vibe?
Yup. I guess so, If you could cut them but keep the mounting points you could expose more of the engine. The front panel might have to go though as that bolts into the lower part of each side panel. Perhaps wait until you drop it and crack one of the lower sections and then cut that out rather than replacing the panel. I always wince when I have to cut or drill perfectly good panels!
You forgot the affiliate link to the wrench!
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Is that your affiliate link or mine?! 🤣
To access the battery (e.g. to add battery tender), can the mid panel be removed without removing the tail panel?
Tail panel can probably stay on. Not sure if you can remove the side panel with the seat on though. You could try it, but the little ‘peg’ on the top left corner of the side panel as you look at the side of the bike, might be tricky to push out of the frame lug if the seat is on.
I'm interested in how did they attach front section to the frame? The bracket for the headlights and tower...
Yup. There’s a cross tube that the front bit bolts to. I have another video about installing Outback Motortek upper crash bars, and they use the same bolt on points for the upper mounting.
Thanks mate just watching now is there a way to get to the spark plug through the gaps without pulling the whole fairing assy off just thinking if you ditch it in a river crossing etc.
Haven’t tried. I’m away for the weekend but can take a look when I’m home. I suspect not… especially with the crash bars on, but maybe there’s access. I expect Honda have a special tool for it… Mind you, I’m not sure it’s always that accessible. I rode a DR650 in Bolivia and all you had to do to access the spark plug was remove the seat. And the fuel tank 😳
@@PeakMotorcycles yep thats what I was thinking with the crash bars, its quite an interesting point I thought one that was bothering with the 650XT. What did you think of the DR mate? I think I'm to used to being able to even pull cylinders on the Nortons without even having to take a single panel off lol.
@@adaptableadventurerider the DR was ok, 90’s technology, and running at 4000m+ above sea level reduced the output even further. The bikes had 40l tanks, so when fully fuelled, it was a handful that I struggled with on soft sand a loose gravel. That said, it got me, a relative novice, round 2000km+ of altiplano and Dakar stages in 10 days, so it must have been pretty good!
@@PeakMotorcycles cheers mate great info as always 👍
What do you think of the strength of the subframe for carrying a passenger?
Not sure. Haven’t carried a passenger and haven’t broken a subframe so your guess is as good as mine. Is it still a subframe if it’s welded on? I’d like to think Honda have built some safety margin into the frame, so onroad I guess it’s fine. Off-road the suspension will almost definitely bottom out two up which would put more stress on it. I’m sure breakages will be reported on tinternet when they occur. I know a few people have taken pillions without any bother but I’m not sure for how long and how far.
How's the new font suspension shaping up?😁
oh, you know. it's ok 😁😁😁. I did a trip away for a long weekend with me + 20kg of luggage and almost no bouncing. On road manners greatly improved and more confidence on braking and cornering. I'll do a proper ride and try to explain a bit more about how different it feels.
Have you done any videos showing how to remove the Rally fuel tank?
I haven’t I’m afraid… I haven’t needed to remove it yet for anything. About the closest I’ve come is the spark plug change, but I was able to get to that from the right side of the bike by unbolting the fairing and radiator. May I ask what you’re doing that needs the tank removed? (Just curious that’s all. If it’s something I’ll need to do, happy to do a video!)
@@PeakMotorcycles Im thinking of doing the PAIR valve and evap canister removal. I know from looking at the parts schematics of the Rally and the 300L that there is a difference in the tank lines and venting (the Rally has an additional vent at the bottom of the tank).
@@brianp5301 fair enough. Not sure that’s on my list yet, but would be interested to hear how you get on. If there’s no video yet on RUclips, you could be the first!
The front plastic guard is such a pain to get the screws to thread back in. It’s terrible
It is. Good luck!
Can the crf300l rally side panels fit on the crf300l? Thanks...
Hi, I doubt it. They fix along the fuel tank, and on the L, the fuel tank is a different shape. The seat is different too. Also on the Rally, the side panels bolt at the top front to a crossbar below the dash. The L doesn’t have this either.
@ 10:50 the brake line is labelled "fuel tube" 🤔
10:50 is taking out some screws?
Honda loves making it brutally difficult to get panels off. Never understood why they do that. Has to be an easier way.
I guess for many, they don't want the panels to come off too easily. Or maybe it's to force people to buy the L, or a naked bike!
@@PeakMotorcycles Or take it in to the stealership... Service departments pull in almost as much as sales these days with cars. I assume bikes are the same.
@@someguy5035 🤣
Yeah compare this to the dr, that has like, 3 bits of plastic held together by 6 bolts....
Could you tell me where the ECU is located?
Left side by the seat I think, but that’s a guess. I haven’t done anything with mine yet. Also the UK/EU one is different to the rest of the world, though I would think they would all be in the same place.
It’s behind the left plastics. There is a rubber boot for it tucked in directly behind the coolant reservoir
Please make a video about removal of headlight assembly or swapping the assembly with that of the 300l...
I don’t think that’s possible. The front frame and fuel tank are completely different. Not sure I’d want the 300L headlight either… apologies.
@@PeakMotorcycles no worries, it's an OCD thing... I just dislike the headlight assembly on the rally inspite of the benefits it gives. But, on the 300l, can we plug n play the engine fairings, cover, cowling or whatever we wanna call it from the rally, or do we still need to do some accrobats to do it?
@@junnereyguinid I think the rear tail plastic is the only bit that is the same. Maybe the rear side covers. Anything forward of that fits around the fuel tank so I think it’s a no.
@@PeakMotorcycles o darn it, so i guess getting the rally and replacing the headlight assembly is the better way...
Do you see that one side panel is painted en one not , exhaust side is painted , other not ,
Greetz gerrie , holland
I hadn’t but thank you. Now you mention it 🤣
Doing all that in the wild? Nahh
Aye, that’s no way to spend time at the side of a trail 🤣🤣🤣
Shit, almost like XRV750 models!😭
🤣