Simple DIY Gear Track Adapter for Kayak Rail Mount Accessories
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- Опубликовано: 25 июн 2024
- Here is the fourth option for a simple DIY gear track adapter for your kayak rail mount accessories. This PVC gear track adapter (PVC gear head) does not need a tap to make thread for the rail mounting T-bolt. This easy modification makes rigging your fishing kayak for a rod holder or other neat hacks, such as a setup for your phone or camera, easy and inexpensive. Check out my other mods as well!
If you have a good idea that you would like me to make a video about, send it to me at ideas@kayakhacks.com
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It's a high compliment when an accomplished fellow maker uses and shares your idea in his content. This is the good part of Y_T, where we share info and methods that we all use to make better, customized or less expensive things. I like and may very well use epoxy, PVC or an insert to extend thread surface and leverage (or the allthread adjuster).
All yakkers should take a PVC/ABS 101 class. Actually you provide one here. Ha.
And the name... that's funny. Somehow YT assigned that to me when I made the account. I don't know why my SwampThing 75 moniker doesn't show up much of the time. I don't comment enough to even think about it.
lol! Glad to know the name! I think there is a way you can go to settings and update the name.
Very cool hack.
I've done the heat-the-bolt approach for a number of PVC hacks. Not all were kayak related.
The approach works really well when using multiple PVC pipes of different sizes as sleeves/bushings (the inner piece can be PVC, wood, etc). Drill a hole in the outside PVC pipe (the sleeve), use the heat approach to tap the hole, then use a bolt through the tapped hole in the outer pipe to press against the inner component to hold it in place - you can get specialized hand-use knobs at the home improvement stores if you want. It's great for making telescoping rods for mounts and also works to lock the inner component when used as a bushing (ie steering mechanism). If you need fixed points on the inner pipe (rod/shaft/etc), make indentations where you want the inner piece to be and the bolt will hold there better than a smooth surface. Need to be careful though as there is a limit on length due to PVC flexibility.
You can also tap the pipe on the end (as you did), but run all-thread or a threaded bolt through it if you want something which fits on the all-thread (or threaded bolt) and you want to adjust height or orientation by means of turning the gizmo along the thread - or you need to screw the entire assembly to something.
I've done both and the hacks have all (mostly) worked well. The only problem I've had was if I overtightened and stripped the PVC thread. That doesn't happen when using a nut, but it's difficult to use a nut with the sleeve (drilling through the side wall) hack. I've also had some long PVC components (camera and boat light mounts) wobble when I made them too long.
For the sleeve hack, anything which fits within the outer sleeve will work, but it generally does better if the OD of the inside component is only slightly smaller than the ID of the outside pipe. Find small pieces and experiment. Some PVC and CPVC sizes are nearly perfect fits. I use them for bushings - I need to add a zerk fitting, though they move fairly well with just the initial lubrication.
There are also websites which publish the standard OD and ID of various sizes of plumbing piping and electrical conduit (copper, PVC, CPVC, PEX, etc) of various thickness (schedules 20, 40, 80, etc)
What great insights! Thank you!
Threaded inset would be stronger, can be added to wood or more pvc glued to inside to replace epoxy.
Pvc can be flattened after heating and filler pieces cut with hole saw and then glued in with standard pvc primer and glue.
Super idea! I need to try it out.
I wonder if adding a threaded insert would make it stronger?
Yeah, I think that is a real good idea. You can buy those at those and Home Depot. I will tinker around with this idea
Interesting idea! I think it would since the motion of the T-bolt would be on the insert and not rub against the PVC.
What size hole do you drill before you heat the threaded bolt
It depends on the size of the T-bolt. I go one step down from the size. For 5/16" T bolt, I use a 1/4" drill bit to be sure I get a good thread. So, as a general rule, pick something 1/16" smaller.
Good idea from unpronounceable person 😂