A good idea would be to change the final drive oil after at least a one hour ride. That housing would actually get hot, all of the particles would be suspended in the oil for a few minutes, then pull the drain plugs. Another thing I like to do is, put a magnetUnder the flow of oil so you can see if you’re getting any bearing scraps metal flake gear flake in the oil indicating something is coming apart. Just a lesson I learned after having owned a BMW K 1200 LT. Final drives on those things failed pretty often..That is actually one of the main reasons I sold my BMW.
Nice video, also you can leave the drain open and slowly fill with new oil until the old runs clean and reinstall the drain plug, then continue to fill. This pushes more of the old oil out.....
Manual recommends a new o-ring for the fill plug and a new crush washer for the drain plug. Well worth $5. Torque fill plug: 9 lbf ft. Torque drain plug: 15 lbf ft. Good idea for the syringe. Thanks for the vid.
If you don't have a syringe style injector handy, I've had great success using a pump from an old hand lotion bottle (flush it out really good, of course!). I keep one around and find that you can drop it in the gear oil bottle and it fits right up behind the muffler. Then just pump away until it starts to run out.
I learned it is way easier if you jack the bike up and allow the rear wheel to drop down. Easier access to the plugs! For those who have a motorcycle jack anyway.
Would moving the wheel to free up any old oil and dirt work? Same with refilling with new oil, would spinning the wheel coat up the internals with clean oil? Thoughts?
Hey Mike got my GL1800 12 months ago and done Final Drive and I am using Amsoil 10w30 just done the coolant also love this bike thanks mate you were the one that got me going for the Goldwing glad I did love your videos
I appreciate the video, brother. Giving the Wing some love today. New oil, new plugs, and final drive oil. Next available day, the brake and clutch fluids get replaced. New tires on Tuesday at JC Cycles in Memphis, too!
Per my 2012 Honda Factory Shop Manual:Top plug torque is 9 lbf-ft and 15 lbf-ft for the drain plug or 12 & 20 N-m respectively. Thanks for the great vid!
That injector looks like a real handy accessory. I'll be sure to grab one tomorrow for my oil change and final drive oil change that's coming up before Wing Ding 39!
Thanks for posting this, Mike. Good info. Actually simpler than an oil change. I thought I read in my owner's manual something about changing the washer on the plug each time? I will have to look at that again.
The hardest thing really isn’t lying on your back to do this, it’s getting back up that’s the hard part
A good idea would be to change the final drive oil after at least a one hour ride. That housing would actually get hot, all of the particles would be suspended in the oil for a few minutes, then pull the drain plugs. Another thing I like to do is, put a magnetUnder the flow of oil so you can see if you’re getting any bearing scraps metal flake gear flake in the oil indicating something is coming apart. Just a lesson I learned after having owned a BMW K 1200 LT. Final drives on those things failed pretty often..That is actually one of the main reasons I sold my BMW.
And you torques it like your supposed to have a bolt not come back out would be an issue guy.
Nice video, also you can leave the drain open and slowly fill with new oil until the old runs clean and reinstall the drain plug, then continue to fill. This pushes more of the old oil out.....
Manual recommends a new o-ring for the fill plug and a new crush washer for the drain plug. Well worth $5. Torque fill plug: 9 lbf ft. Torque drain plug: 15 lbf ft. Good idea for the syringe. Thanks for the vid.
If you don't have a syringe style injector handy, I've had great success using a pump from an old hand lotion bottle (flush it out really good, of course!). I keep one around and find that you can drop it in the gear oil bottle and it fits right up behind the muffler. Then just pump away until it starts to run out.
I learned it is way easier if you jack the bike up and allow the rear wheel to drop down. Easier access to the plugs! For those who have a motorcycle jack anyway.
Walmart....88 cents lmao
Clean the drain plug magnet carefully. Inspect is there any chips or debris bigger then metal dust. If so, fun starts.
Would moving the wheel to free up any old oil and dirt work? Same with refilling with new oil, would spinning the wheel coat up the internals with clean oil? Thoughts?
Hey Mike got my GL1800 12 months ago and done Final Drive and I am using Amsoil 10w30 just done the coolant also love this bike thanks mate you were the one that got me going for the Goldwing glad I did love your videos
Fantastic video. Thanks Memphis Mike. Very well narrated, with great video and audio quality.
I appreciate the video, brother. Giving the Wing some love today. New oil, new plugs, and final drive oil. Next available day, the brake and clutch fluids get replaced. New tires on Tuesday at JC Cycles in Memphis, too!
Hi Mike! Thanks for the video!
Best advice EVER! If I had not followed take the fill cap off first I would have been SCREWED! Thank you very much
Thanks. Very helpful as I am about to pick up my first, used, new to me Goldwing this weekend.
Per my 2012 Honda Factory Shop Manual:Top plug torque is 9 lbf-ft and 15 lbf-ft for the drain plug or 12 & 20 N-m respectively. Thanks for the great vid!
easy cheesy pumpkin peasy. i got my syringe at the gun show for a buck i bought a few of them, nice tool to have. great vid brother
That injector looks like a real handy accessory. I'll be sure to grab one tomorrow for my oil change and final drive oil change that's coming up before Wing Ding 39!
Thanks for posting this, Mike. Good info. Actually simpler than an oil change. I thought I read in my owner's manual something about changing the washer on the plug each time? I will have to look at that again.