I really appreciate you guys putting this video together. When I satarted towing large / heavy loads a number of years back, I quickly realized the importance of trailer weight distribution and tongue weight as it pertains to vehicle dynamics and -most importantly- safety. This past summer when I was in Algonquin Park I watched a minivan with a 20+ foot RV go down the road with the rear of the vehicle squatting to the point the underside of the ball-mount was dragging on the road. I honestly couldn’t believe it. It was apparent that they used the manufacturer’s max towing rating as the only factor to how large/heavy a trailer they could tow without realizing that the tow rating is a perfectly balanced and distributed trailer with ideal tongue weight. Most trailers, especially RVs, do not conform to this, especially when you pack the vehicle and trailer full of kids and camping equipment. I’d like to see the authorities and legislation catch-up with the times, but in the meanwhile videos like these are going to prove invaluable. Thanks for putting it together guys.
While I agree that there are inherent dangers in cross-strapping, there are a few states which require that trailered vehicles be strapped or chained to prevent side-to-side movement. Got tagged in Michigan for over the wheel straps only. Their motor safety guy would not even accept strap baskets over the wheels and strapped to the sides of the trailer - he wanted cross chains from the vehicle frame. We had swung into southern MI to get some parts on our way to a drag race event in Illinois - never did that again.
Very easy to understand technical explanation as to why tongue weight matters. Thanks for even providing information about the option of purchasing a do it all tongue weight read out hitch.
I really like your gauge on the trailer hitch. Super easy to read and quickly determine where to position the car. Not common in the EU. But European trailers are way easier to handle car towing. The floor is full of holes making the trailer not only lighter but you can strap the cars with a 3 point strap by the wheels/tyres directly to the trailer. No cross whatever needed and you can fully tension each strap from the start. Excessive strap lanes can be simply thrown into the car you have loaded and by shutting the door they don't move anywhere no more. Loading a car takes basically 10 minutes tops. If you are more skilled then you can get it done even under 10 minutes. Fully safe and secure :)
So incredibly helpful! Thank you so much, im new to trailer usage, I bought one to be able to haul a couple of cars I own. And your video was very thorough and informative.
Excellent video! Would love to see how tounge weight behaves when a car is loaded backwards onto a trailer. I see it all the time at track days, and can't help but think it's wrong.
Adding load to the truck does not change the tongue weight at all. Tongue weight is a measurement of the downward force put on the tongue(hitch) by the trailer. Adding load to the bed does increase the load on the rear suspension, which may overload the rear suspension, but it does not affect tongue weight.
Yes, true. Our buddy Dmitry called us out on that one via PM already lol. However, load in the bed does cause the trailer to nose down (in our case, at least), which shifts the weight balance of the trailer forward and thus increases tongue weight in the process. So although weight in the bed doesn't alter tongue weight directly, because it can lower the position of the tow ball/hitch connection, it can in fact change the tongue weight in the process (as we've seen directly while using the Weigh Safe hitches). To fix that we'd need a drop hitch like the Weigh Safe one we showed to move the ball up, or add air bags or a load levelling hitch system, as I'm sure you know. Also, love the look of your FJ60! Cool truck.
@@speedacademy There won't be any significant increase in tongue weight unless you have a very high center of gravity with the load on trailer and your bed load is heavy enough to greatly drop the rear down. Load in the bed should be as much forward as possible to distribute some weight toward front axle.
Nice video 👍 I now watch so much RUclips I can spot a Canadian accent 😂, the California plate threw me off a little I’m not gonna to lie. From England 🏴👍
If the trailer is level empty when hooked up to the trailer then loaded with the car, wouldn't that alter the level? Is it better to have the trailer nose up by and inch or two to compensate for the weight of the car after it's loaded?
Ace video! I tow from time to time and have never checked tongue weight... hahaha and love that you mention the receiver size on that huge hitch. I was thinking it looked too large.
Great video. Just s note avoid strapping control arms especially in a bmw, those control arm bushings wear out fast as it is. And u putting pressure on them like that will cause them to wear out prematurely.
I just watch the back of the tow vehicle drop from it's unloaded position about a 1/2" works a treat on my Ute... providing its not over loading the factory towing capacity.
Quick tip. If you have a dual axle trailer like this one just look at the tires on the trailer and get it so they have roughly the same amount of pressure on them
I am fairly new to this, and you guys made me feel so professional with how ridiculously wrong you guys are on so many points, that I'm feeling pretty good about myself right now...
It should also be noted, you have your break away cable hooked up incorrectly. The break away cable is supposed to be hooked up to the tow vehicle itself, and not to any part of the hitch assembly. It is intended to activate if there is a complete failure of the hitch system. If you have it hooked to the hitch, if the hitch breaks away from the frame of the truck, etc., the cable will never be pulled...........absolutely useless. I hook my break away cable to the frame of my truck. That's the way it supposed to be. You should also mention that the chains are not only intended to keep the trailer attached to the hitch if the ball/receiver fails, but they also must be tight enough so the front of the trailer is elevated and rests on the chains preventing it from coming into contact with the pavement. You wouldn't want the front of the trailer catching a pothole/seam in the pavement and.........well........you get the picture.......
To add on to what you said on the end: that hitch will fit on the tundra, you just have to take the sleeve out of the reciever. Because that's a 5 ton hitch.
Good video, thank you. I've pulled trailers for decades but pulling my first car this weekend. BTW- why do Canadians always sound like laid-back nice guys?
Eh, the way they strapped it....it's not an issue. Had they wrapped the aluminum arm all alone you might have a point, but in this case you're just being a know it all.
Hey I got a 2004 Chevy Tahoe I got a 18 ft trailer going be towing a 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 single cab 2 door when I load it the truck goes all the way down I got the trailer weight distribution for it I even put the truck in the middle like you were saying.
@Speed Academy I keep getting conflicting answers on this. Does adjusting the inclination of the strut within a Macpherson strut assembly alter the king pin inclination (also referred to as the steering axis inclination, SAI, or KPI)?
by inclination, do you mean leaning the strut toward the midline of the car (ie. more camber) or laying it back towards the tail of the car (ie. more caster)?
Speed Academy right inclination toward the center, just the strut. The diagram I’ve seen shows it does not affect the KPI of the upper and lower ball joints
really so your saying a device that is made for Horizontal would keep the truck down on the ground!! why Not just a rear jack stand because that what they were made for.....Duh!
When attaching the straps to the trailer make sure the hooks are pointing up and away from the strap. You have it upside down, which is a very common oversight. Great video!
Sure. We can tell you it tows an open trailer w/ a car on it with ease. With a 20-ft enclosed trailer loaded up with a car and tools etc it definitely works harder but still does the job just fine. Ours does have the Towing Package, so trans cooler and the "Tow/Haul" button on the dash that switches it over to trans shifting logic better suited to hauling heavy loads (basically uses more RPM and lower gears to prevent lugging the engine and overtaxing the trans while accelerating, climbing steep hills, plus it downshifts sooner when coasting downhill to get some engine braking happening, etc). It's rated to tow 10,500 lbs and we've towed loads that were probably 8-9k lbs and it does it just fine but it is using more RPM than normal if you want to cruise faster than 105-110kph on the highway.
Is it acceptable to estimate tongue weight based on how much the rear of the truck sags? If I tow with the same truck, and i know i have 500# tongue weight, could i measure the tire to fender distance when loaded? So no matter what im loading, i can judge correct tongue weight?
I just looked up the pricing of that digital scale and it goes for ~$1,800. It’s worth it to me because 1- I don’t trust analog gauges. 2- I don’t trust OBD2 tongue weight scale, because it’s not 100% accurate. 3- the nearest weigh station is about an hour away. And I don’t recommend driving more than 15 minutes on a off weight trailer.
@@robertkorn Using the givens of 5500 pounds for the car/trailer and 650 pounds of tongue weight, the jack would be 8.46 from the center line of the axles (the fulcrum), . Assuming that the ball is 10.5 feet from the fulcrum, the new tongue weight would be 523 pounds or 28 pounds less than the 10% minimum tongue weight - hardly a minimal change. But that is just what the math says . . . or did we go to different schools? If one knows where the CG's for the car and the trailer are and the weights of each, the location of the car on the trailer can be determined by basic statics (math), without needing a scale.
@@robertkorn Back to basics; you need between 10 and 15% of the gross trailer weight as tongue weight. In this case that would be 550 - 825 pounds. If you want to say that 5.091% less than the minimum tongue load is minimal so be it. You may stand by your original response all you want but it is not based on logic, or math.
@@denali9449 You are the one struggling with the basic math. The 28 pounds amounts to a variance of 5% of the tongue weight. When doing your 10-15% range, it only accounts for a 0.5% differnence in that number. Again, negligible. 4 extra gallons of fuel in the vehicle you are towing would account for the same amount of difference. It's nothing.
I got a question, if I hitch my trailer up to my car which is an Elantra and I need to pull another car on the trailer I'm wondering if all the weight from the trailer will push my back end suspension low and bring my front up , I'm new to all this btw
I don't think that hitch thing, which is awesome BTW, would account for any additional "tongue weight" you get from loading the towing vehicle. All it can do is give you a measurement of how much weight is pushing on the ball. If you're adding any significant amount to the towing vehicle, it'll have to be added to the displayed weight to determine if you're overloaded.
Your emergency brake away cable isn't hooked up right. It's not supposed to be hooked to the hitch... therefore if the hitch falls off it won't do anything...it needs to be connected to the truck bumper Or frame...not the hitch/receiver
Ooh cool, I need to buy a corner weight scale to tow cars? Even better, know your rig, and watch for the tow coupling to go down when you load the vehicle on.
Maybe I'm overly cautious but I'd leave the hitch connected to the truck and just crank down the wheel until the load is off the hitch just in case something shifts. If that car starts rolling backwards things could get hairy pretty quickly
This is probably already been mentioned but right off the bat Your Hooks on the safety chain or upside down you didn't put blocks under the back of the trailer to keep all the weight pulling up on the back of your truck which is definitely a No-No this is very hard on your trailer hitch when weight is taken off the rear tires truck possibly could roll if on Hill I've had this to happen when I was a kid just learning
Your lower control arm (front) and axle (rear) strap down points are equivalent to going though the wheels and will allow the loaded vehicles suspension to operate. I typically don't like that method, and strap to frame points in front to minimize towed vehicle suspension travel. I also parallel front straps and cross just the rears, I would be interested in others opinions
Interesting feedback, thanks for this. We've noticed that parallel front strapping does seem to help prevent them from loosening off as much as they do when cross strapped. Not sure why that is or if our experience is different than others with this.
I would recommend NOT using aluminum control arms as a tie down location. That a good way to bend them. I remove the jack pads an use J-hooks in the holes when tying down my BMW.
The e39 front lower control arms have a sticker on them saying " do not tow or lash" on them just to let you know. www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/68-SUSPEN-Front_Lower_Control_Arm_Replacement/images_med/pic05.jpg
Yeah trailer tires are crap. They fall apart and blow up often and are expensive for what they are. I use LT tires on my trailer. It's not a car trailer but I haul wood with it though.
Ball size isn't the only thing about the ball. There are different tow ratings (total trailer weight) of balls available in each size ball. And chock the trailer wheels when driving up those moronic wood ramps. (what happened to the good steel ramps that came with that trailer when it was new?). Just stupid to not chock the wheels while driving the car onto that type trailer. Cut 45 deg angles both ends of a 4X4 to fit with little room when slid between the tandem trailer wheels. Use that on both sides. Your tundra is NOT fine that way. Your low beams are now aimed up like the high beams are supposed to be aimed. (this is a SYMPTOM, not the #1 issue) If your vehicle is noticeably tail down like that you need the load distributing hitch or get a bigger truck. When you lift the weight off the front tires like that you have reduced steering authority. And on wet roads the front will hydroplane first and then you are royally screwed. What is the max tongue weight rating for your Tundra vs what is the tongue weight there? (Max tongue weight is listed in the owner's manual and note... that assumes the truck bed is EMPTY)
Why does everyone do that! What good does the emergency brake line do hooked into the chain hook? So many past co-workers do the same thing. So let's say the ball let's go. The chain is shorter then the brake cable, clearly. The trailer is dragging by the chain... and the brake is completely unaffected. Next step that chain breaks and the trailer is now on its own... yet again the brake is unaffected. YOU MUST HOOK THE BRAKE CABLE TO THE TRUCK. IT MUST BE SHORTER THEN THE CHAIN! Please please fix this for the future.
I have to say, I am thoroughly let down here - I'm in absolute dismay. The sheer number of ball and receiver-in-hole jokes that were tee'd up and not swung at is both concerning and disheartening.
Mad respect guys. When you guys make a mistake no gripes no bullshit you just own it and make it right. You guys are legit.
Thanks man, we're here to share and learn and if we don't own up to our mistakes then we're losing an opportunity to do both.
I really appreciate you guys putting this video together. When I satarted towing large / heavy loads a number of years back, I quickly realized the importance of trailer weight distribution and tongue weight as it pertains to vehicle dynamics and -most importantly- safety. This past summer when I was in Algonquin Park I watched a minivan with a 20+ foot RV go down the road with the rear of the vehicle squatting to the point the underside of the ball-mount was dragging on the road. I honestly couldn’t believe it. It was apparent that they used the manufacturer’s max towing rating as the only factor to how large/heavy a trailer they could tow without realizing that the tow rating is a perfectly balanced and distributed trailer with ideal tongue weight. Most trailers, especially RVs, do not conform to this, especially when you pack the vehicle and trailer full of kids and camping equipment. I’d like to see the authorities and legislation catch-up with the times, but in the meanwhile videos like these are going to prove invaluable. Thanks for putting it together guys.
Just to note you want to connect the emergency brake cable to the truck itself and not the chain. You guys went into detail on this nice work.
Good eye! We normally attach it to the receiver.
Yup dot pulled me over gave me a inspection and told me I was the first person to have it connected right
Blippin Jeep (Matt) Just did a video as to why you don't cross strap it's very informative I learned something. Will never cross strap again
Exactly!
While I agree that there are inherent dangers in cross-strapping, there are a few states which require that trailered vehicles be strapped or chained to prevent side-to-side movement. Got tagged in Michigan for over the wheel straps only. Their motor safety guy would not even accept strap baskets over the wheels and strapped to the sides of the trailer - he wanted cross chains from the vehicle frame. We had swung into southern MI to get some parts on our way to a drag race event in Illinois - never did that again.
Very easy to understand technical explanation as to why tongue weight matters. Thanks for even providing information about the option of purchasing a do it all tongue weight read out hitch.
Very informative. Even though I've been dealing with trailers and loads, and mishaps for a long long time, I still learned something. Thank you!
Very glad you pulled the other and made a new one. We all think we know everything, until we don't lol Much respect to y'all.
Thanks, we're trying!
That hitch is cool! I never knew they made that. Good info! Keep the vids coming boys!
Man, what a tutorial, I appreciate all the good information. Thank you 🙏
I really like your gauge on the trailer hitch. Super easy to read and quickly determine where to position the car. Not common in the EU. But European trailers are way easier to handle car towing. The floor is full of holes making the trailer not only lighter but you can strap the cars with a 3 point strap by the wheels/tyres directly to the trailer. No cross whatever needed and you can fully tension each strap from the start. Excessive strap lanes can be simply thrown into the car you have loaded and by shutting the door they don't move anywhere no more. Loading a car takes basically 10 minutes tops. If you are more skilled then you can get it done even under 10 minutes. Fully safe and secure :)
My wife says my "tongue weight" game is strong!
Dave approves this comment
She's lyin'...
🤣🤣🤣 dude u a fool
Ideal. I'm picking up a motor tomorrow and it'll be my first trailer loading.
Fun fact: Tongue weight is called Nose Weight here in the UK
So incredibly helpful! Thank you so much, im new to trailer usage, I bought one to be able to haul a couple of cars I own. And your video was very thorough and informative.
Excellent video!
Would love to see how tounge weight behaves when a car is loaded backwards onto a trailer. I see it all the time at track days, and can't help but think it's wrong.
Adding load to the truck does not change the tongue weight at all. Tongue weight is a measurement of the downward force put on the tongue(hitch) by the trailer.
Adding load to the bed does increase the load on the rear suspension, which may overload the rear suspension, but it does not affect tongue weight.
Yes, true. Our buddy Dmitry called us out on that one via PM already lol. However, load in the bed does cause the trailer to nose down (in our case, at least), which shifts the weight balance of the trailer forward and thus increases tongue weight in the process. So although weight in the bed doesn't alter tongue weight directly, because it can lower the position of the tow ball/hitch connection, it can in fact change the tongue weight in the process (as we've seen directly while using the Weigh Safe hitches). To fix that we'd need a drop hitch like the Weigh Safe one we showed to move the ball up, or add air bags or a load levelling hitch system, as I'm sure you know.
Also, love the look of your FJ60! Cool truck.
@@speedacademy There won't be any significant increase in tongue weight unless you have a very high center of gravity with the load on trailer and your bed load is heavy enough to greatly drop the rear down. Load in the bed should be as much forward as possible to distribute some weight toward front axle.
Ghetto ramp setup is classic. Good stuff!
Great explanation. Thank you for taking the time to educate.
Nice video 👍 I now watch so much RUclips I can spot a Canadian accent 😂, the California plate threw me off a little I’m not gonna to lie. From England 🏴👍
Perfect timing guys. I will be towing the ol s2k soon. 👍🏼
Always learning something new from you thank you
If the trailer is level empty when hooked up to the trailer then loaded with the car, wouldn't that alter the level? Is it better to have the trailer nose up by and inch or two to compensate for the weight of the car after it's loaded?
Ace video! I tow from time to time and have never checked tongue weight...
hahaha and love that you mention the receiver size on that huge hitch. I was thinking it looked too large.
I personally found the video very informative and helpful....thanks!!👍
What a beautiful truck!
Thanks for that amazing explanation video, truly helps !
Thank ya fellas, good content. Safe hauling, salute
I got the airbags 😁 you bet your beard I’m getting that WeighSafe hitch now! Don’t tell the wife!
The only thing that make a me nervous on cross strapping is where the straps can rub. I’m glad others mentioned the safety brake hookup issue.
Great video. Just s note avoid strapping control arms especially in a bmw, those control arm bushings wear out fast as it is. And u putting pressure on them like that will cause them to wear out prematurely.
keep up the good informative work. Good job .
I just watch the back of the tow vehicle drop from it's unloaded position about a 1/2" works a treat on my Ute... providing its not over loading the factory towing capacity.
Helpful. I'd like to see more videos on tuning suspension though
Great information!
2:52 How did you open door and get out? Looks like it will hit fender.
Quick tip. If you have a dual axle trailer like this one just look at the tires on the trailer and get it so they have roughly the same amount of pressure on them
Yo DP! That was some mighty fine strapping brother
lol feel free to drop by for some high quality DP strapping any time...
I am fairly new to this, and you guys made me feel so professional with how ridiculously wrong you guys are on so many points, that I'm feeling pretty good about myself right now...
It should also be noted, you have your break away cable hooked up incorrectly. The break away cable is supposed to be hooked up to the tow vehicle itself, and not to any part of the hitch assembly. It is intended to activate if there is a complete failure of the hitch system. If you have it hooked to the hitch, if the hitch breaks away from the frame of the truck, etc., the cable will never be pulled...........absolutely useless. I hook my break away cable to the frame of my truck. That's the way it supposed to be. You should also mention that the chains are not only intended to keep the trailer attached to the hitch if the ball/receiver fails, but they also must be tight enough so the front of the trailer is elevated and rests on the chains preventing it from coming into contact with the pavement. You wouldn't want the front of the trailer catching a pothole/seam in the pavement and.........well........you get the picture.......
To add on to what you said on the end: that hitch will fit on the tundra, you just have to take the sleeve out of the reciever. Because that's a 5 ton hitch.
Oh really? Very cool, didn't realize you could do that. We'll check that out, thanks!
Super helpful.
0:55 Nice video, but i wonder where does one get a two and half inch ball? Biggest I've seen on a bumper pull is 2-5/16.
Good video, thank you. I've pulled trailers for decades but pulling my first car this weekend.
BTW- why do Canadians always sound like laid-back nice guys?
great info thanks
Very detailed. Nice
FYI, E39 control arms have a tag on them that specifically says to NOT use them as an anchor location. You can see the tag at 10:10.
Eh, the way they strapped it....it's not an issue. Had they wrapped the aluminum arm all alone you might have a point, but in this case you're just being a know it all.
Got a compact sonic chevy? Bumper hits ramps before wheels do?
Would you put the transmission into Park and activate the parking brake?
Hey I got a 2004 Chevy Tahoe I got a 18 ft trailer going be towing a 2004 Chevy Silverado 1500 single cab 2 door when I load it the truck goes all the way down I got the trailer weight distribution for it I even put the truck in the middle like you were saying.
Finally the E39!
That's an awesome product
If one of your straps break, you'll damage or loose your car if you have your straps crossed like that.
Good info guys thank you.
@Speed Academy
I keep getting conflicting answers on this. Does adjusting the inclination of the strut within a Macpherson strut assembly alter the king pin inclination (also referred to as the steering axis inclination, SAI, or KPI)?
www.racingaspirations.com/macpherson-sai-or-kpi/
This diagram looks accurate and any inclination of the strut shows no
by inclination, do you mean leaning the strut toward the midline of the car (ie. more camber) or laying it back towards the tail of the car (ie. more caster)?
Speed Academy right inclination toward the center, just the strut. The diagram I’ve seen shows it does not affect the KPI of the upper and lower ball joints
If you are loading a heavy vehicle you want to chalk the rear of the trailer so it doesn’t lift the rear tires of the tow vehicle off the ground.
Huh. Can u explain that
really so your saying a device that is made for Horizontal would keep the truck down on the ground!! why Not just a rear jack stand because that what they were made for.....Duh!
That big adjustable hitch looks like a class 4 receiver. Maybe something for "trailer video part 3".
When attaching the straps to the trailer make sure the hooks are pointing up and away from the strap. You have it upside down, which is a very common oversight. Great video!
Hope you chocked the wheels or set the e brake to avoid snapping that parking gear
Thank You!!!
you might want to rethink cross strapping . if one strap comes loose that car will want to move toward the good strap and loosen it.
Could you do a video on how the tundra tows sometime?
Sure. We can tell you it tows an open trailer w/ a car on it with ease. With a 20-ft enclosed trailer loaded up with a car and tools etc it definitely works harder but still does the job just fine. Ours does have the Towing Package, so trans cooler and the "Tow/Haul" button on the dash that switches it over to trans shifting logic better suited to hauling heavy loads (basically uses more RPM and lower gears to prevent lugging the engine and overtaxing the trans while accelerating, climbing steep hills, plus it downshifts sooner when coasting downhill to get some engine braking happening, etc). It's rated to tow 10,500 lbs and we've towed loads that were probably 8-9k lbs and it does it just fine but it is using more RPM than normal if you want to cruise faster than 105-110kph on the highway.
Is it acceptable to estimate tongue weight based on how much the rear of the truck sags? If I tow with the same truck, and i know i have 500# tongue weight, could i measure the tire to fender distance when loaded? So no matter what im loading, i can judge correct tongue weight?
Great video man how can I know how manny pound can my truck load?
If you throw stuff in the back of the truck it doesn’t change the tongue weight it changes the trucks payload
I scrolled through all comments. I thought I was the only one who caught that.... lol
Good info thanks for the video
I just looked up the pricing of that digital scale and it goes for ~$1,800. It’s worth it to me because 1- I don’t trust analog gauges. 2- I don’t trust OBD2 tongue weight scale, because it’s not 100% accurate. 3- the nearest weigh station is about an hour away. And I don’t recommend driving more than 15 minutes on a off weight trailer.
How do you load car if the tire is flat or blown out
So if it was 50lbs can you pick the trailer up with your hands
Just thinking wouldn't it be good with a level in it aswell
Do you put it in D or L
Still no center caps on the TE37s huh.
Center caps? That's crazy talk. With the cornering g's we pull, they always fall off ;)
the tongue weight at the hitch will actually be lighter than what you measure at the jack since it is further from the trailer axle
Math says the difference is minimal.
@@robertkorn Using the givens of 5500 pounds for the car/trailer and 650 pounds of tongue weight, the jack would be 8.46 from the center line of the axles (the fulcrum), . Assuming that the ball is 10.5 feet from the fulcrum, the new tongue weight would be 523 pounds or 28 pounds less than the 10% minimum tongue weight - hardly a minimal change. But that is just what the math says . . . or did we go to different schools? If one knows where the CG's for the car and the trailer are and the weights of each, the location of the car on the trailer can be determined by basic statics (math), without needing a scale.
@@denali9449 28 pounds is less than a 5% difference, minimal in my book. I stand by my response.
@@robertkorn Back to basics; you need between 10 and 15% of the gross trailer weight as tongue weight. In this case that would be 550 - 825 pounds. If you want to say that 5.091% less than the minimum tongue load is minimal so be it. You may stand by your original response all you want but it is not based on logic, or math.
@@denali9449 You are the one struggling with the basic math. The 28 pounds amounts to a variance of 5% of the tongue weight. When doing your 10-15% range, it only accounts for a 0.5% differnence in that number. Again, negligible. 4 extra gallons of fuel in the vehicle you are towing would account for the same amount of difference. It's nothing.
I got a question, if I hitch my trailer up to my car which is an Elantra and I need to pull another car on the trailer I'm wondering if all the weight from the trailer will push my back end suspension low and bring my front up , I'm new to all this btw
You cannot tow a car with you Elantra.
@@speedacademy hold my beer
No hablo inglés y te entendí buen video
I don't think that hitch thing, which is awesome BTW, would account for any additional "tongue weight" you get from loading the towing vehicle. All it can do is give you a measurement of how much weight is pushing on the ball.
If you're adding any significant amount to the towing vehicle, it'll have to be added to the displayed weight to determine if you're overloaded.
I’m guessing the winch is for cars that don’t start?
Your emergency brake away cable isn't hooked up right. It's not supposed to be hooked to the hitch... therefore if the hitch falls off it won't do anything...it needs to be connected to the truck bumper Or frame...not the hitch/receiver
Ooh cool, I need to buy a corner weight scale to tow cars? Even better, know your rig, and watch for the tow coupling to go down when you load the vehicle on.
Maybe I'm overly cautious but I'd leave the hitch connected to the truck and just crank down the wheel until the load is off the hitch just in case something shifts. If that car starts rolling backwards things could get hairy pretty quickly
Anton Maes That's why he chocked the tires.
This is probably already been mentioned but right off the bat Your Hooks on the safety chain or upside down you didn't put blocks under the back of the trailer to keep all the weight pulling up on the back of your truck which is definitely a No-No this is very hard on your trailer hitch when weight is taken off the rear tires truck possibly could roll if on Hill I've had this to happen when I was a kid just learning
Your lower control arm (front) and axle (rear) strap down points are equivalent to going though the wheels and will allow the loaded vehicles suspension to operate. I typically don't like that method, and strap to frame points in front to minimize towed vehicle suspension travel. I also parallel front straps and cross just the rears, I would be interested in others opinions
Interesting feedback, thanks for this. We've noticed that parallel front strapping does seem to help prevent them from loosening off as much as they do when cross strapped. Not sure why that is or if our experience is different than others with this.
I would recommend NOT using aluminum control arms as a tie down location. That a good way to bend them. I remove the jack pads an use J-hooks in the holes when tying down my BMW.
The e39 front lower control arms have a sticker on them saying " do not tow or lash" on them just to let you know. www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/techarticles/BMW-5-Series-E39/68-SUSPEN-Front_Lower_Control_Arm_Replacement/images_med/pic05.jpg
You might want to address the rust on the frame and hitch receiver of truck.
If you’re measuring tongue weight shouldnt you be measuring weight from the hitch point? You’re like 400mm behind the hitch point there.
2 1/2 in ?
Ghetto this and ghetto that! Great video tho 🤝
Haha, murica! Europeans laughing their ass off. Try our trailer hitch system ;-) keep it up, great Videos, greetings from germany
Tools, cargo, and passengers don't change the tongue weight. Those are related to payload.
Adding weight to the bed of the truck will lower hitch height. It won't add trailer hitch weight
Yeah trailer tires are crap. They fall apart and blow up often and are expensive for what they are. I use LT tires on my trailer. It's not a car trailer but I haul wood with it though.
bmw the lower control arms have a label do not tow or strap on it.use the K member instead`
The chain link welded onto the trailer is insufficient .
These are actually well priced...
Ball size isn't the only thing about the ball. There are different tow ratings (total trailer weight) of balls available in each size ball.
And chock the trailer wheels when driving up those moronic wood ramps. (what happened to the good steel ramps that came with that trailer when it was new?). Just stupid to not chock the wheels while driving the car onto that type trailer. Cut 45 deg angles both ends of a 4X4 to fit with little room when slid between the tandem trailer wheels. Use that on both sides.
Your tundra is NOT fine that way.
Your low beams are now aimed up like the high beams are supposed to be aimed. (this is a SYMPTOM, not the #1 issue)
If your vehicle is noticeably tail down like that you need the load distributing hitch or get a bigger truck.
When you lift the weight off the front tires like that you have reduced steering authority. And on wet roads the front will hydroplane first and then you are royally screwed.
What is the max tongue weight rating for your Tundra vs what is the tongue weight there? (Max tongue weight is listed in the owner's manual and note... that assumes the truck bed is EMPTY)
Do I hear valve train noise?
Since you weighed it with the driver in place, I guess he will need to stay in there for the entire trip.
Breakaway strap should be through eye on truck
never seen a 2 1/2 inch ball
Why does everyone do that! What good does the emergency brake line do hooked into the chain hook? So many past co-workers do the same thing. So let's say the ball let's go. The chain is shorter then the brake cable, clearly. The trailer is dragging by the chain... and the brake is completely unaffected. Next step that chain breaks and the trailer is now on its own... yet again the brake is unaffected. YOU MUST HOOK THE BRAKE CABLE TO THE TRUCK. IT MUST BE SHORTER THEN THE CHAIN! Please please fix this for the future.
Never X pattern for straps. It's worse if one breaks.
DRIFT WAGON?!
I have to say, I am thoroughly let down here - I'm in absolute dismay. The sheer number of ball and receiver-in-hole jokes that were tee'd up and not swung at is both concerning and disheartening.
LOL duly noted!
Regale us with a few choice jokes you would have added.