Interesting that you call this one soft. That mono tends to get this one called solid at the grade. Maybe it's just because we don't have many pockets up here in the north east? Though honestly, I don't even use that thing as a mono, and definitely not downward pulling. It's possible to gaston it with the middle finger, stack the pointer on top of the middle finger, and use the downward pulling surface as a thumb catch. As far as I know, I'm the only one I know who uses that beta, so who knows.
Tried it today but I struggled at the crux this is a much better beta than what I was trying. I went right hand to that mono not left then up to amino arête
arduous paths yup! The beach is just to the right and hits the little roof. Very technical and fun! I’ve heard 11d from one guy for both of those but I haven’t climbed enough of them and my strong friends got stuffed on 6 foot so I’m thinking 12- haha
Another song for the Greatest Hits album of the softest 5.12s in the land feat. Ellen absolutely slaying the pumpy 5.11 Cuttlefish onsight.
Interesting that you call this one soft. That mono tends to get this one called solid at the grade. Maybe it's just because we don't have many pockets up here in the north east? Though honestly, I don't even use that thing as a mono, and definitely not downward pulling. It's possible to gaston it with the middle finger, stack the pointer on top of the middle finger, and use the downward pulling surface as a thumb catch. As far as I know, I'm the only one I know who uses that beta, so who knows.
These names are getting outrageous
hahahaha
Tried it today but I struggled at the crux this is a much better beta than what I was trying. I went right hand to that mono not left then up to amino arête
there's also a key right hand undercling that helps you set up that left hand pocket!
Is this to the right of cuttlefish?
Ellen (in the video) is on Cuttlefish!
To the left!
you should get on the beach or 6 foot man roof!
for sure! 6 foot man roof is super fun but I've never tried the beach. I heard about it though! Is it to the right of 6 foot man roof?
arduous paths yup! The beach is just to the right and hits the little roof. Very technical and fun! I’ve heard 11d from one guy for both of those but I haven’t climbed enough of them and my strong friends got stuffed on 6 foot so I’m thinking 12- haha
@@julianm5826 yah looking forward to next season (and the end of covid) so I can give it a burn!
Octoballs is 11c at the hardest, not 12a.
it's soft for sure! I'm just going by word of mouth. Glad you found it so easy!
@@arduouspaths Fair enough, was told a climb there last week was mid 10s, turned out to be 5.12+. That's half the fun of Farley!
feel like 12- to me
then 12a sounds good! Unless you're trying to point out a difference?
@@arduouspaths ruclips.net/video/YwS35T-aWY8/видео.html
@@grimpepartout3744 i'm so confused... are you a bot lol
@@arduouspaths you will never know :)