Subaru Ascent Brake Pad Change / Replacement How-To
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
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Tag along as we change the brake pads on my wife's 2019 Subaru Ascent.
As for the electric parking brake... Apparently, they all need to be twisted, it's not just a Subaru thing. It's the first one I've had a chance to mess with, so I learned something! I only had experience with cables.
Brake pads used: Powerstop Z23 Evolution Sport Carbon Fiber Brake Pads.
www.powerstop....
Front: Z23-2170 (www.rockauto.c...)
Rear: Z23-1808 (www.rockauto.c...)
Music Credits:
Bensound.com
Invincible by Deaf Kev [NCS Release] ( • DEAF KEV - Invincible ... )
Fade by Alan Walker [NCS Release] ( • Video )
Reflections by Disco's Over ( • Disco's Over - Reflect... )
Thank you for putting this video together! Saved me some headaches figuring things out as well. Two things to confirm, the rear caliper bolts are 7mm hex and the front caliper bolts are 11mm hex, came out like a dream.
Glad it was a help. Thanks for watching!
Yeah, 11mm hex, TX 55 is too small...
Great info thanks
Thank you. I have to do the brakes on my 2020 Ascent and I hate to run into the "Gotchas" when doing brakes on a car I've never worked on before. This helps a lot.
Get a proper parking brake winding tool instead of doing it half-assed like I did! They’re cheap on Amazon.
That’s the only thing in the video that I’d go back and change.
We have a 2019 Ascent as well and I know exactly what sound you are describing when braking. I feel the same as you that the sound is from the pads, the pads are probably more for real soft and squishy braking that will last a long time rather than getting a good bite on the rotor and stopping well. I think when ours is due, I'll be doing the same as you and getting other pads and rotors, the face of the rotors on the car now is so smooth, it's like they don't really bite down they are just two smooth surfaces against each other. Good video, glad to see what I may encounter in the future! Thanks a lot!
Glad you enjoyed it. Cheers!
Like you said, it's nice to have reference video of the process to avoid surprises. Spinning the rear pistons on a 2019 Accord was new to me, and thanks to you I know the Accent is the same. Off to get messy! Cheers!
I might not do everything right, but I’ll muscle my way through it! Thanks for watching!
This video saved me a ton of time and stress.
One thing I did was push the bushing back on the piston and just used a pair of channel lock pliers to turn it so it could be depressed. I think you turn it tight, depress, turn it tight, and depress fully. WAY easier than turning it from the indentations on the front.
Yeah man, whatever works! Glad the video was a help 👍
Thanks, I had 81,112 miles on my ascent with the original brakes. I did both front and rear pad sets and bled the system too. I also bought a rear caliper rotating tool to rotate the pistons back into the caliper. Got that from harborfreight. Good to know I saved about $700...vs having the stealership do the work.
The pulsing on our Ascent was so bad, this was one of the first maintenance items I did to the car.
The rears have an electronic parking brake... so the piston needs to be twisted as it's pushed back in. Similar to many other braking systems. Having the proper tools makes this job much easier. Front pistons don't require spinning, just pushing back in. :) Glad you figured it out.
Yes, after doing this job I bought an actual set of real caliper compression tools.
@@CarsCraftsDrafts they are definitely worth the price :) Great job on the video too.
Is used this video to do the brakes on my 2020 Ascent this weekend. You did a great job of laying it all out and I was able to pick up the additional tools I needed prior to doing the job. Thank you and keep up the good work!
Awesome! Glad it was a help!
So this is exactly the same as a 2020 or did you find it a little different?
@@drewwestenbarger535 it was identical
I usually hit the surfaces the caliper slides on with a wire brush and lube and the allen pins you unbolted I pop those out to inspect, clean, and lube as well. The pins usually are fine as they have rubber seals to keep water out, but it is good to inspect them because the calipers slide on them. Thanks for the video. I wanted to see what surprises I might find when I work on my sister in-laws Ascent tomorrow.
Thank you for doing this video. I just finished rear brakes on mine and this really helped make the job fairly easy
Awesome! Glad it helped!
Doing some research on brakes and came across this video. My 2019 forester sport has done the same thing you described when getting on the brakes hard from day one. 40k+ miles I have to replace my brakes, never had an issue with my Honda after 80k+ miles as far as brakes. And I drove that a lot harder than my Forester. The longer I own this vehicle, I just keep noticing little things that drive me nuts about it. Can't wait until car dealer inventory is normalized so I can get back into a Honda.
The brakes are a common problem on this car. There have been two or three different versions of the pads.
Despite the issues we’ve had with the car, it’s still the perfect ride for us. We might even try to trade this one in for a ‘22. Other than the Ascent, we’d have had to go into a Tahoe or similar, which wasn’t in the budget at the time.
Overall, we’re happy!
You seldom have to change rear break pads, about 80 percent of the breaking is in the front because weight goes to the front. I usually leave the old break pad on the piston and a c clamp to push them back. I am glad that you dont have that weird turn type in the front breaks! I am changing mine today, we have had that wa wa you were talking about, I think the rotors are bad from the factory. Thanks for the video very informative.
Yeah, that wah wah wah was there since new. New pads seem to have fixed it for now. We still get a little bit under certain aggressive braking, but it’s leaps and bounds better. As long as it doesn’t get worse, I’ll probably do rotors when I do the pads again.
If I’m changing to a totally new brand / type of pad, I’ll change everything. They’re cheap enough. Otherwise I’ll just replace what needs replacing.
This is interesting, I’m using the broadest sense of the word, for her truck the drivers side at the pistons was bad, metal on metal. The other side has the noise making “finger” and was good, the finger never touched the rotor. So she didn’t hear a noise until the brake pad was gone, the passenger side didn’t really need new brakes, that side’s pistons must have dragged, but they moved without issue pushing them in. The design is more suited for a car then a small SUV, I wonder if there is an issue. I think I’ll be checking these more often.
Yes factory rotors are bad. Had my front rotors replaced under warranty.
@@greybeardcomics1196 yes. I think this SUV need brakes designed for a truck. Especially if Subaru advertises towing capability. Love the vehicle though.
I used to get lots more mileage out rear brakes but with EBD the rears are used a lot more than they used to be. On top of that the brakes on the early Ascents (I believe they changed them later on) are undersized and not very good. The rear brakes on my 2019 Ascent actually had to be changed at 36k. Subaru paid for everything except the parts cost of the rotors which I chose to have replaced at the same time (dealer ended up charging me $104). The car is now close to 45k and I'm going to change the front pads and rotors (the dealer wanted over $500). The pads could probably go another 5-10k but the rotors are getting too warped for my comfort.
The rear brakes are the same as on my 2015 Outback, the front ones are different. Subaru uses a scan tool to retract the electronic parking brake, but spinning and pushing works too. The spring on the rears is easier and safer to remove with a screwdriver. And please wear some safety glasses when working with springs
Yeah man, after that spring got me… safety glasses for sure.
Thanks so much for the video man…very helpful! I was having that same whobble, pulsing noise when braking, so I changed the rotors as well. Everything’s good now.
Glad to hear!
Thank you for making and sharing the video. It was very helpful. I appreciate it.
It's nice when you find a cold beer like this.. 😁
A cold one always helps!
Thanks, never would have figured out that the caliper needed to be screwed in!
Just be sure to get the right tool for the job! It’s easier that way!
Thanks for this video surely will save and help me when it’s time to change my brake 2019 Ascent got it last year low miles, looking for more of your video.
Right on! Thanks!
Thanks for this! I've changed pads and rotors on my other vehicles but these looks a bit different. It's always nice to see what I'm up against. I'll be changing my Ascents pads this fall at 70,000 km of so.
That beer sounded good :)
It was just there, I promise 😜
I was looking for the same thing. Brakes aren’t hard, but I like to watch the process first so I can see the ‘gotchas’. There were zero Ascent brake jobs on RUclips so I made this one. I make a few missteps and couple incorrect statements along the way, but that’s part of playing the game.
Thanks for watching, and glad you enjoyed it! 🍺
@@CarsCraftsDrafts Did you have any problems with the electronic brake after you where done with any check engine lights.
Nothing at all. No lights, no beeps, didn’t have to reprogram anything.
@@CarsCraftsDrafts very glad to hear that. I almost gave in when I was reading online that the ascent has to be put into some type of brake maintenance mode or the e brake wouldn’t work correctly. Really appreciate the video!
My Mrs just got one of these as well, dealer price is so high for just needing pads 😳 thanks for the part numbers as I’m using powerstop also. Cheers dude this was a great vid 👍
Glad it helped!
Thanks for the video. Our brakes are pulsating like crazy. We bought it used and I’m thinking the dealer probably turned the rotors too thin. Fun fact, my moms old 2003 mustang had turn style pistons in the rear. Being 19 at the time of course I had to snap a c clamp to figure it out 🤣
Glad you enjoyed it. I’m always learning something new!
Thanks for the informative video! Saved me a lot of grief! The tricks to replace the springs worked great
Glad it helped!
Great video. Lots of help. You’re right, first side is a learning curve but then 10 mins per wheel other side. Very straight forward minus those springs. But they are simply to work with. Hondas rear brakes also have spinning piston. Asian? Japanese thing?
My rear caliper wouldn’t budge then I remembered my electric parking brake was engage, to my delight.
It's the simple things that will get ya! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. Made the job quicker.
I'm glad it helped you out!
Nice video, I'm just glad there isn't some dumb service mode. More tools make it easier, caliper piston twist tool set, c clamp, motive bleeder and catch bottle plus some clear tubing and some dot4 brake fluid. Squeezing a simple piston on a normal caliper is easier if you attach the clear tubing to the bleeder screw and route it into the catch bottle, you really should bleed the calipers a bit when changing pads anyway, you'd be surprised just how much the fluid darkens from daily use.
Yeah, computers make things much more difficult. But no fancy tools needed here. I did pick up a caliper piston tool bc I did another brake job before a recent trip to Florida. Much easier than snap ring pliers.
Oh and for the rear brakes I did not do them but bought on amazon the tool to do it for like $25 to spin the piston back, Never saw that before but seems to be common.
Yes, I bought that tool recently when I replaced the rotors. Definitely helps to have the right tool for the job!
Great video thanks for the tips on the torx bits and the clips/springs
Glad it was helpful!
The clips on the pads are brake sensor wear indicators (you will hear a scraping noise when the pads are very low) also turn the master cylinder cap and leave it loose on top of the master cylinder when changing the pads as to not trap air in the lines (so you won't have to bleed the system. .
100%. Unscrew the cap so the air in the cylinder has somewhere to go!
@@CarsCraftsDrafts Did you have any problems with the computer (check engine light coming on after the test drive.) I have a 2020 and have had nothing but problems with the front pads / Rotors ,dealer has changed them 2 times, Factory #'s pad # 26296XC00D rotor # 26300XA00A .
@@CarsCraftsDrafts I also love the LE flag top right of video at the start.
@@bomb1142able No problems with the computer at all. This is a 2019, and since it was brand new we had an issue with the brakes pulsing and "wah wah wah wah wah" under aggressive braking. New pads seem to have done the trick.
@@CarsCraftsDrafts my last question did you have to retract the electronic emergency brakes on the rear brakes , wondering how the pads just fit right on.
Hi there
Thanks for video. Just bought these from Carid for $107.
Glad it helped 👍
Great video. Cant wait to hear how those pads feel
The pads were great. We just did a road trip to Florida, so I changed the pads again (with the same as in the video) but did rotors as well. Very happy with the results, much better than what came on the car from Subaru.
My front rotors had a wobble also. Dealer tried to re-surface and that fixed the problem for maybe 6 months then it started again. I ended up replacing the front rotors and the wobble is gone. I checked the tolerance on the old rotors and they were still fine. IDK what caused the wobble.
I’ve heard people say that the problem is the OEM pads, that they leave deposits on the rotors. I don’t know how true that is, but replacing the pads fixed probably 85% of my issue. It was still there, but far less common and far less noticeable.
I eventually swapped the rotors out with plain PowerStop rotors (not drilled/slotted) and that got rid of the remaining issues completely.
Much appreciate on the video. Might recommend anti-seize for the pin bolts but also to check the caliper pins while you can.
Yeah, I dab some brake lube on all the pins and bolts before reassembly.
Spot on. But fyi 11mm Allen key is 7/16" why you did not have a 11mm:) But your procedure worked perfect! 2hrs from start to finish cleaning up for front breaks.
Surprisingly, I have plenty of 10mm sockets!
Thanks man, appreciate that!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for watching.
Would have been nice if you showed where the hex bolts are on the front calipers. Trying to do them on my 2020 and there is only two rubber caps that won’t come out.
The Allen bolts on the front should be relatively the same as the rear. If I’m thinking of the correct caps, they should come out with a small screwdriver and little effort.
Thanks for being the gunea pig. Dealer just quoted 1100 for front and rear brake job. Funny from brand new the brakes pulsed when ridden hard.
You would think it’d be warrantied!
New pads don't get rid of glaze on the rotors
New pads got rid of 80% of the problem. Changing the rotors got rid of that last 20%. I wound up going with plain PowerStop rotors (not drilled/slotted).
Hey Man,
Thanks for the video. Did you have any issues with the eye sight braking system after doing the rears?. The dealer quoted us 700 dollars this weekend for rear rotors and pads. My wifes car only has 45000 miles on it and she does mostly highway. I think its crazy I should need brakes already. I plan to do pads myself because I just did 4 rotors and pads for my Silverado for 350. I think this price is crazy. The dealer has already had to replace the front rotors and pads under warranty because of the shaking when braking from high speeds. they came right out this past visit and said ya Subaru decided to put outback rotors on the ascent and that was a bad idea yet doesnt seem like they plan to fix the issue when its become a known issue. Its probably the only thing we don't love about the car. I want to knock these pads but the calibrated of the eyesight braking system makes me a little nervous.
I didn’t have any issues with the eyesight system at all.
Sloop is good stuff
You didn't need scanner to put in service mode due the to electronic parking brake?
Nope. Just turned it in like you saw in the video. Didn’t cause any problems. I did buy an actual elec parking brake though so I don’t have to screw around with snap ring pliers next time.
@@CarsCraftsDrafts thank you, I'm doing one tomorrow
I'm doing mine tomorrow. I have the Autel 808 and verified that it can retract the EPB on the rear. I'm surprised that worked without having to retract them.
Anyone have any problems with the epb since it's electronic? I was reading forums that you had to put the vehicle into service mode in order to do the rear brakes.
I was able to do this without putting the car into service mode. What you see in the video is exactly what I did. No need for a scanner.
Ok cool.
Did the new pads get rid of the noise? I ordered the same pads from Carid for $100 total delivered for both front and rear. Dealer wants $183 for the front pads and $130 for the rear, so $313 for both. I have Power Stop Z36 pads and the Power Stop rotors on my truck.
I really like the Power Stop stuff, I use Z36 on my trucks as well.
I don't know if it's really 100% gone, but it's a thousand times better. It's only present under very heavy braking, almost borderline emergency braking... But under normal use, even more aggressive use, it's gone. When the car needs pads again I'll change the rotors and see what happens, but it's probably not necessary.
Any complaints with the Z23 pads? Thinking about getting the same for my Ascent
Nope, I love them. I have them on my Corvette as well.
Great video. Did you loosen the master cylinder cap or do any bleeding at all?
I did not open the cap. Wouldn't hurt, though. No bleeding either. I didn't mess with the bleed nipples (or accidentally shoot out a piston... 😒), so no air would've gotten in.
@@CarsCraftsDrafts Thanks for the quick response.
Thanks Nick!
The tutorial is great ,is there a certain torque requirement for the bolts on front and rear calipers or you just get them snug without over or under tighten thank you .
I don’t think I found any documentation on torque settings. If I didn’t mention it in the video, then I probably just went by feel. Which isn’t accurate at all, but they haven’t fallen off yet!
Mine made that same wa wa wa brake noise pulse since new too
New powerstop pads and rotors totally eliminated it for me.
Do you still have the car abs if so how do you like it? Any major issues? Looking to buy a 2019 with 30k miles, but they reliability rating is making me nervous. My wife and I love the car, it has everything we want and within budget, but definitely a little scared off. Can you offer up any info now that it’s been a couple years?
We love the car, it's the perfect size for me, the wife, and our two little boys. Routine maintenance isn't a problem, oil changes are easy, etc. Just a lot of bigger problems that were covered under the warranty. We had the whole moonroof assembly replaced after it got stuck half-open, the transmission was replaced once, and we had the front shocks replaced due to a really bad knocking. But the knocking is still there so we'll be bringing it in to get that addressed as well as get the latest transmission recall done (drive chain I think). Overall, we're happy with it, just hoping that they work the bugs out before the 100,000 mile warranty expires.
It doesn’t have to do with the Brakes but why did you have to get a new transmission? Contemplating on buying a 2020 ascent but noticed that when turning there is this mechanical noise.
We get a noise when turning and accelerating, like from a stop sign. It’s like a chirping sound. I believe that’s why we got the new tranny, but I don’t exactly remember. It was within our first year of ownership.
Ours is actually at the dealer right now for the same issue. But they’re not replacing the tranny, they said it’s the transfer clutches that cause that problem, and a little stuttering from the trans. So far everything has been covered under warranty but I’m toying with the idea of trading it into the dealer for a new one. We’ve got 98,500 miles on it with a 100,000 mile warranty, so I’d like to unload it before we have to start shelling out money out of pocket.
@@CarsCraftsDrafts Gotcha, yeah I want to take it to a separate shop and get a subaru tech to actually diagnose it. As the dealer who is selling it is not a subaru dealer. The transfer clutches apparently have to be sync/re-learn procedure by doing 8 figurines while holding steering wheel full lock and alternating. Most have success doing the 8 figurine’s 3 times.
Just don’t want to get stuck with the bill if I purchase it and something gets damaged.
Thanks for replaying
Overall we’re happy with the car. Perfect for our little family. We’d definitely get another, as long as it has a warranty!
@@CarsCraftsDrafts Awesome ! I forgot to ask, is that Warranty from Subaru factory that is covering those things, or is that the extra warranty you purchased at closing?
We have the Subaru Gold Warranty that we purchased when we bought the car new in 2019.
Oriellys has the tool to put the piston back in. They loan it out for free.
Good info! Thanks.
Thanks for the video.
Do you need to put the ebrake in service mode before changing the pads?
Nope. I didn’t have to do anything like that.
Did you put the maintenance mode for the electronic rear break?
No, wasn’t necessary.
Would this be the same for a 2020 ascent?
I assume it would be, or at least very close. I don’t think they made any changes between the two years, but don’t quote me on that!
Something’s leaking under the hood maybe brake fluid over flowed
I didn’t notice. If you can give me a time stamp for the video I’ll check it you. Thanks!
Wish you had shown the clip removal on the rear calipers. You mention a pick or small screw driver but where am I even picking. This clip is BS
Which clip are you talking about? Give me the time stamp of the part of the video and I can probably walk you through it.
Any issues with sensors or dash lights coming on?
Nothing at all. Everything I did is in the video. I didn’t have to put it into service mode or anything like that. It’s easy!
Could you have removed just one bolt to swing the caliper out without removing it?
I’m not sure. I’d have to go through the process again and check it out.
thx
Great video. Thanks. Next time use eye protection.
Solid advice that I really need to be better about following. 👍
you'll need to resurface your rotors to get rid of the "wah wah" noise.
How many miles was on brake pads
Honestly I don’t recall. Maybe 25k-30k miles.
H 7/16
this guy has no friggin clue what he's doing
Maybe not, but I got the job done! 👍
He's got guts showing a video of him figuring it out on the fly before practicing first. The second time is always so much smoother. I really enjoyed it and he saved a fortune.
Immediate thumbs down for overly loud intro music and that is with half volume on the app. Good information other than that.
Thanks for the feedback. This was the first video I made and was (and still am!) trying to get the audio levels dialed in correctly.
@@CarsCraftsDrafts well now I feel like an asshole. Immediately thumbs up!
@techsavynomore All good man! I didn't take any offense to it. Thanks for checking it out!
Sound is great