The first knife to feature a wire pocket clip was the "C01 Worker" produced by Spyderco. In 1981, Spyderco introduced the concept of a pocket clip on a folding knife, essentially making Spyderco the first company to widely implement the wire pocket clip on a knife.
I've long been a fan of Bob Dozier knives and his primary steel was D2. I have a drawer full of Bob's knives and never had a problem sharpening them. Bob often demonstrated how to sharpen his knives and he used diamond sharpening stones which makes sharpening D2 as easy to sharpen any other steel. Also, over the years my D2 knives have showed very little inclination to rust. Most say it is semi-stainless but it takes very little extra care to keep them rust free. Also, I'm loving the popularity of Magnacut because as the clamor increases, the cost of knives with steels that are just as good (or nearly so--we can argue the point) can often be purchased at a bargain. E.g., l love my red-handled Griptillian in 20CV that I paid (IIRC) around $99 for--a great deal from KCI! I also think that there are enough videos out there now showing that Magnacut can be "chippy" when sharpened to a fine edge so I'm not worshiping at that altar just yet. I have one Magnacut knife and that's a good plenty.
Right you are on Bob Dozier & D2. I have several knives with D2 blades, primarily because of Bob's view. I figured if it was good enough for Bob, it's good enough for me.
Little bit if history... Kershaw originally used 13C26N on the Leek but then asked Sandvik to make them 14C28N for better corrosion resistance. 14C28N was actually exclusively offered to Kershaw for a while and wouldn't exist without them.
I bought an R2D2 to use as a work knife a 3-4 years ago and as someone who had never sharpened knives before I bought a Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener and found it quite easy to put a good sharp edge back on it. Not sure why people believe it to be hard to sharpen.
Without diamonds or ceramic, d2 it would be tough to sharpen. Give it a try on an arkansa stone. Out of the steels he mentioned d2 is my favorite, so I'm not throwing shade, just explaining.
@@ohiogarbageman9507 But thats not a reasonable explanation. diamond sharpeners and ceramic are cheap and readily available why wouldn't you use them?? Saying using a lesser tool to do the job then saying its hard or tough because you arent using the right tool is a bit ridiculous.
@@zdbrownie that's exactly why people say that. they either don't use proper tools or they're not good at sharpening in general (like not being able to consistently hold an angle) and then blame it on the steel
@zdbrownie D2 has been around a long time. Ceramic stones were new when I started sharpening. Diamond stones didn't exist. It was hard to sharpen. Now, the truth of the 1980's doesn't apply, but people still repeat the line.
@@ohiogarbageman9507 so again I say its not a reasonable explanation or reasonable logic. It simply is not true anymore. its 2025 and you want to talk about the 1980's?? Thats again just simply ridiculous.
22:53 favorite budget knife steals probably 14C28N. It can be heat treated to hold an edge as long as s30v, is way tougher, and cost less. In a way it's budget Magnacut.
14c28n doesn't hold an edge as long as S30v regardless of how you do it. It does have much more toughness and a bit more corrosion resistance, though. If you can sharpen, and you don't mind sharpening more regularly, then it is likely a better steel choice than steels like S30V or Magnacut anyway.
@@phil2082 The greater toughness of 14C28N allows for a thinner edge, and when you do that 14C28N will indeed have better edge retention than S30V. The difference in edge retention as a function of geometry is vastly greater than the difference in edge retention as a function of wear resistance.
@rockets4kids A thinner edge does not have better edge retention, though... You need wear resistance to have better edge retention. Well, I guess it's time to sharpen a 420hc knife I have at a 15 degree angle and test this.
D2 used to be tough to sharpen but with modern Diamond Sharpening Stones for around $50-$60 you can easily sharpen any steel to hair whittling sharp in under a minute. Diamond stones have changed the game. No factory edge is as sharp as one I can make in 60 seconds.
FALSE...D2 was never hard to sharpen because of the stones...and diamonds wont change that.... it was the carbides being so large that they stuck out proud on and edge below 30 degrees and were easily ripped out.
@@rockets4kids Uh, Not hardly! Only in very soft, normally chinese knockoffs of D2. It isn't exactly to the proper specs for D2 nor is it heat treated properly. Nor is the Rat! D2 does NOT lend itself to batch heat threat. KnifeMaker
I absolutely love my Kizer Cormorant and I'm glad you showcased one for the fidget factor. It is my most favorite fidget knife. Sadly they don't make the fat carbon and elmax version anymore but still a great knife. Sharp out of the box too! Thank you DCA and Thomas
Man, I've seen quite a few of your videos now, and I really like how you put your words together: articulate, objective, methodical. Also, tell your cameraman he had me rolling when he said "subject to speed." I'm only recently back to buying knives, and I've never purchased a d2 knife, but I admit I'm a bit cold towards it. I live in an arid climate, so the lower chromium isn't necessarily a deal breaker, but the extra hardness feels like overkill for my needs. I'm far from the best knife sharpener you'll ever meet. I've only used 14c28n and ar9rpm so far, but I probably overall prefer the latter. They're both plenty sharp, but I live in a boring city with a big river, so I spend alotta time on or near the water. All that extra chromium sounds like music to my ears.
Ontario rocks with their knives, just got their new 1.5 with Magnacut Steel and it comes shaving sharp, after stropping just a little it shaves nicely. For a price tag below a 100 bucks it is a nice addition to anyone's collection.
No reason to choose D2 when 14C28N has nearly the same wear-resistance and is many times tougher. It's also easier to sharpen. The corrosion resistance is bonus. 14C28N is in the same family as 13C26, AEB-L, and 420HC -- they all have similar properties, though 14C28N is the best of these. Nitro V was meant to be an improved AEB-L but loses a lot of toughness in exchange for a little wear-resistance. 14C28N manages to gain both wear-resistance and corrosion resistance, all without losing any toughness.
KnifeSteelNerds fame Dr. Larrin Thomas rates D2 at 5 for edge retention, and 14c28n at 3. If you don't need very thin geometry, or to beat on the knife, then you don't need the extra toughness of 14c28n. If you don't need the corrosion resistance of 14c28n, like if you get coated D2, then the D2 is the better bet. For folding knives, coated D2 is leagues better than 14c28n, with specialty exceptions for things like razor blades or knives to beat on.
@@phil2082 KnifeSteelNerds fame Dr. Larrin Thomas is basing this on the CATRA test which only measures wear resistance. The CATRA test doesn't measure wear through micro-fracture, which is the more common method of fulling out in the real world. It also doesn't account for the fact that 14C28N can be run at lower apex angles.
A lot of knife makers seem to prefer to work with AEB-L, i think it may be just because theyve learnt their skill using it and know it very well. I totally agree that 14C28N is superior to NitroV in every way, Im really not liking how it is being adopted over 14C by so many companies in the last year or two.
I love D2. It's one of my absolute favorite budget Steels. I've never had any issues sharpening it on Diamond or bonded Diamond Stones and as long as I clean it and keep it dry after use I have no issues. I'd choose it over almost any other budget Steel
Hey DCA, Seth & Thomas! Hope y'all are enjoying 2025 so far. I have 2 questions if I may be so bold. 1: I have always loved persian/trailing point knives. would you be so kind as to recommend some of your favorite suggestions for edc? I carry my zt 0462 quite often & would love something with a similar vibe. bonus points for robustness. 2: I have been meaning to grab myself a pocket tango, but here in Cali fixed blades must be worn on the hip/belt as I understand it. Is there any aftermarket/3rd party sheath that would work for this purpose? ps: truly, thanks for everything you guys do. i'm sitting here in a hotel right now after evacuating from the wildfires, binge watching videos from the channel. you guys really always put a smile on my face. not only are you informative & helpful but the content is always engaging & entertaining. it is appreciated. kudos
I love d2 and 14c. Quick and easy to sharpen on my diamond stone and take a screaming edge that lasts pretty well. And they don’t cost a fortune. I probably have a dozen thatre d2 and 14c.
I actually like d2 more than 14c. For my use I don't need a whole lot of toughness and I live in a desert so stainlessness is not that important to me. For a budget knife d2 is perfect for me.
If you are interested in picking up the Nice Guy by Kizer, it is also offered in D2 and Nitro V at a price range of $29 to $59. I have learned to keep D2 Worker Bee's (highly recommend the Ontario RAT 2) and 154CM EDC (anything Kizer or O'knife has been a phenomenal). Looking forward to seeing more of this series.
Spyderco's premier steel used to be VG-10, and Benchmade's was D2 or 154CM. I still like them and even 440C or ATS34. I find the heat treatment varies on D2. I am just a casual user/collector.
For yardwork, nothing beats my BK9 to hack small limbs and my 10" Silky saw to cut the bigger stuff. This kit is so handy that I keep it tossed behind my seat in the truck when I am on the road.
Carried that same R2D2 for about 4 years and replaced it woth a denim Penguin about 4 years ago. Both D2. I always have that Penguin in my left pocket as it's my work knife. My right pocket changes. For the last week it's been my Benchmade 940-2. I like a fine toothy on my D2 for work, works great.
I have been pleasantly surprised with the RPM-9 I used as a daily. I went into it before knowing much about it, and it's been great. It can punch above its weight, considering it's on $30 knives now.
If you can sharpen excellently or find a great sharpener, like I have to, D2 is almost alien sharp. Great steel. Lasts a very long time for most EDC users.
Very good point on carbide size and grindability, stuff like 10v and 15v is actually quite easy to sharpen because the carbides are literally smaller than red blood cells.
Having broken several tips of Kershaw Leeks with only moderate use, I can tell you that 14C28 is really not all that strong. Or maybe the tip is just way too acute for everyday use. Maybe both.
D2 is awesome! It's my favorite budget steel, because it holds an edge better than any other budget steel. Get some diamond sharpening plates and it'll sharpen right up.
I have several knives with D2 steel. If you take care of your knives, the lack of "stainless" is not really an issue. It may take a little more effort to sharpen them, but they perform great once sharpened. I have high tech steels also, but I don't mind D2 at all.
Good to see the ESEE's on the table. The 5 is a beast. The 6 is best all round. The Junglas is on my wish list.....! Keep up the good work. Education on knife steels is greatly appreciated.
Hey, DCA, Thomas, Seth, and the KnifeCenter team! I’m a college professor, and knifes with a blade longer than 2.5” are prohibited on campus. Aside from my Victorinox Mini Champ (which is always on my keychain) and my Victorinox Bantam Alox (which is always in my wallet) my carry rotation for work includes a CRKT Squid, a vintage Case slipjoint, and a Milwaukee Fastback 6-in-1. I like the relatively beefy handle of the Squid for its size. Do you have any recommendations for a more premium knife with a similar grip/hand feel? I’d also appreciate some fixed-blade carry options, with the same blade-length requirements and hand-feel preferences mentioned above. Thanks for all you do!
When I got back Iinto knives.. all the esee stuf 1st. Then as a folder I eventually got the avispa in d2. During covid. My father was killed and I burried it w him. Since then I ve had several more of zancudos and avisapas. I ve carried prisdio2 for 5 years now and honestly d2 is just as good in EVERY way as 30v.
I have a couple of old original Queen Cutlery slip joint knives with D2 blades and those blades are a royal PITA to sharpen, they seem so hard they just feel like they're sliding across ice instead of a sharpening stone, it takes forever to touch them up, but they do stay sharp for a long time. I also have a Rat 2 and a Rat 1 with D2 and the heat treating must be a bit different on those because while staying sharp for a good while, they are easier to touch up. As far as stainless goes, they're stainless enough at about 12% chromium, I actually prefer plain old carbon steel anyway, so being stainless isn't a concern for me.
FUN FACT: D2 steel is always in quantum superposition, it will only be stainless when users are directly observing it. Once you forget its existence, it might decay into the void.
I never understood why D2 caught on as the budget steel of choice when 14c28n exists. Most people don’t need ultimate edge retention at the expense of toughness and corrosion resistance. 14c28n has both qualities in spades and the ease of sharpening makes the decreased edge retention far less of an issue. Nitro-V and AEB-L, as relatives of 14c28n, are equally as awesome and always made far more sense to me than D2. I remember when Civivi was first really taking off as a brand - they had tons of D2 options (the Elementum being the most well known) but I think they only had one model in 14c28n, the Riffle. I’m glad we are seeing 14c28n and Nitro-v take over. 154cm is also pretty exciting, but I’m worried that it’s going to be run on the soft side. It really jumps up in capability the harder you run it. Shame we aren’t seeing ATS-34 get the same love. The IDEAL would be RWL-34 and CPM-154 become the new standard for the “middle” tier knives from the big Chinese OEMs.
My favorite choice is 14c28n and nitro V But I prioritize toughness pretty high, and a LOT of my D2 blades have chipped or snapped completely. Sure I'm tough on my knives, but it's what I do.....
Both knives are great options for food preparation and general use, but they have distinct differences in materials and warranties. Here's a comparison to help you decide: --- ### **CIVIVI Hid Thumb Stud Knife** **Blade Material**: 14C28N stainless steel - Excellent for food preparation due to its corrosion resistance and edge retention. - Sandvik 14C28N is known for being easy to sharpen and maintaining a fine edge, which is ideal for slicing tasks. **Handle Material**: G10 - Lightweight, durable, and resistant to moisture and chemicals, making it well-suited for use in wet environments like kitchens. **Warranty**: - CIVIVI offers a **limited lifetime warranty** covering material and manufacturing defects. - Customer service is often highly rated, with easy replacement or repair processes. --- ### **Kizer Momo Pocket Folding Knife** **Blade Material**: 154CM stainless steel - Also a strong choice for food prep, offering good edge retention and corrosion resistance, though it may not hold an edge as long as 14C28N in wet environments. - Slightly tougher than 14C28N, meaning it can handle harder use without chipping. **Handle Material**: Aluminum - More robust than G10 but heavier. - Aluminum handles can feel colder and less grippy, especially if your hands are wet or oily. **Warranty**: - Kizer provides a **limited lifetime warranty**, similar to CIVIVI, but their service is not as universally praised. --- ### **Which Is Better for Food Preparation?** - **Blade**: CIVIVI's 14C28N blade is slightly better for food prep due to its finer edge and superior corrosion resistance. - **Handle**: G10 (CIVIVI) offers better grip and comfort in wet conditions compared to aluminum (Kizer). ### **Warranty Comparison** Both brands have similar warranties, but CIVIVI is known for smoother customer service. --- ### **Recommendation** If your primary concern is **food preparation**, the **CIVIVI Hid Thumb Stud Knife** edges out due to its corrosion resistance, sharper blade, and more comfortable handle. However, the **Kizer Momo Knife** is better suited for camping or harder-use tasks outside of food prep due to its tougher blade and aluminum handle. But, I respectfully know, you didn't ask me.
I like D2 but I need a more stainless steel . Most of my knives are S35VN or 14C28N! With a couple of 20Cv in there but those are much more expensive knives! Either way blade geometry and heat treat are also a major factor!
My go to backyard knife these days is the Terava Skrama 240 and it would take a lot for another knife to take its place. It's kind of a shame that S45VN didn't get more time to saturate the knife industry before it got its lunch eaten by Magnacut. 80CrV2 is my favourite budget steel. The biggest problem with D2 is that it isn't as forgiving when you shovel hundreds of them into the oven at the same time, where you'll end up with a bunch of blades getting bad heat treatments. I'll take the AUS8 or AUS10 variant over the D2 for that reason. I have zero problems with lower production number D2 knives though.
I've had bad luck with some companies, either the D2 is too soft or too brittle. So far, Böker has been good, Shieldon okay but nothing spectacular. Shooziz was too brittle. That's what I remember off-hand.
@@kirkmagill7313 That's what bugs me, the lack of consistency. 14C28N seems to be good across the board. I'm looking at two potential beaters from Swisstech, the Haltbar in VG10 and the Kräftig in D2. I feel like they're made for different purposes, the Haltbar being more for bushcrafting like a Mora, and the Kräftig being like the Gerber Strongarm for abuse.
D2 is still a good steel in my opinion and I have never had a blade stain. I live in the rainy Northwest and about 2 miles from the salty Puget Sound. Good steel in deed. Thanks 🎸🔪
Great point David, steels that have moved down-market still cut everything they did before. Was good then, still is now. Along a related note though, one of my favorite party tricks is to cut open steel cans using my pocket knife. Please hear me out before lecturing me on "How Not to Treat Your Knife." Many knives, from about mid-grade on up, are made from tool steels that were designed to cut or shape metal, including other steels. If the tool steel was designed for this duty, what's the harm? So here's the question: What are some alloys and/or geometric features that would make a knife tolerant of this so-called abuse? (P.S. I'm grown up enough not to try to make warranty claims if I do something clearly stupid...)
Something to keep in mind, benchmade usually uses CPM D2, which most steel people consider non-budget because of the CPM process. It is definitely not the same as normal D2.
I was trying to make an Altoid survival kit. What do you think would be some of the best knives you could put in it small enough to not take up too much room but large enough to be used safely and do some actual work
I love a sheepsfoot knife. I also love a marlin spike. Do you think we will ever see a "salt" type version of a mariner knife? Maybe with MagnaCut or LC200N? That would make so much sense to me.
Hello DCA and KC, I have been collecting folding knives for a while now, and I have finally figured out the criteria I look for in folding knives (long expensive process). Now I am wanting to start fixed blade collecting, do you have any go to recommendations for beginner fixed blades to start collecting at, and what type of steel to look for? Stainless vs carbon steels. Thanks
Hi, DCA and Thomas. I live inn a major, northern city, so I cannot wear a fixed blade on my belt, nor would I want to. But I go out to visit my parents a lot, and they live out in the country, where I do a lot of stuff around the house. I always have a Leatherman with me (both location" and when I've out there, I've recently tried carrying a few different fixed blades. I've found that I like the Elementum fixed blade and recently tried carrying it horizontally, on my front right hip, for right-hand draw. I like it, but the knife is really way too big for that. Can you recommend a good knife for this? I'm thinking 1.5" - 2" blade, and I realize that I'm probably looking at a 3-finger grip at best, considering my slightly larger than average hands. In addition, just to sound even more finicky, I'd like a sheath that Kydex or a similar material that "locks" the knife in place. Thanks for any help you can provide. P.S. I love when you sneak in super nerdy references every now and then.
By the numbers: Using the numbers from Dr. Larrin Thomas of KnifeSteelNerds fame: D2 is at 3.5 for toughness, 5 for edge retention, and 4.5 for corrosion resistance. So: Toughness / edge retention / corrosion resistance D2 is at 3.5 / 5 / 4.5 14c28n is 9 / 3 / 8.5 420HC is 9 / 2.5 / 8 8cr13mov is 6 / 3 / 7 Super steels, to compare: M390/20cv at 3.5 / 6.5 / 9 S90V is way up at 3.5 / 9 / 7.5 S30V is at 4 / 6 / 7.5 S35VN at 5 / 5 / 7.5 Magnacut at 7 / 5 / 9.5 D2 is the same edge retention as Magnacut and S35VN. It has less toughness, which means it is worse for thin geometry or beating on, which doesn't matter for normal folding knives. It has less corrosion resistance, which just means you should use coated D2. Basically, coated D2 is as good as uncoated Magnacut and S35VN for a folding knife. Coated D2 is very close to S30V, and is closer to 20CV than it is to 14c28n for edge retention. If you need to beat on a fixed blade, D2 is not better than other options. If you need to have corrosion resistance, D2 is not the best. If you don't rust knives (or you get coated D2), and you are using a folder, then you should probably go for cheap coated D2 over expensive magnacut or S35vn.
That numbers doesn't really correlate with real life use to be honest. Only 10% better edge retention for m390 over s30v? Bollocks. Properly treated 20cv/m390 hold the edge much better than any s30v.
@Nudel-nc1cp I don't think you've ever used them side by side, with the same geometry, and put numbers on these things. Clearly, that's what science is for: Removing your feelings from things, and telling you how you should actually feel, by putting numbers on things.
@@phil2082 Well. I know it is scientific but only in one way: straight push cut with CATRA test. Not really valuable in real life scenarios. I sharpen all my pocket knives on 17,5 degree per side with same stones up to 3000 grit. So... You are wrong about me.
Hey DCA14MOv, great video this week, great topics, but got me thinking, how great the budget steels are and how companies are putting together great stuff super cheap, but what might be even more impressive is companies like Bestech putting a few MagnaCut blades under a $100, we may be in the golden age of production knives right now, bring us some good shot show stuff
Greetings, my fellow knife lovers. With all the great knife options we are fortunate have in this day and age, I am having trouble sorting through the quagmire to find my next purchase. I am looking a modern version of a gentleman’s knife. One that drips old school class while being fidget friendly. Slip-joint vibes with modern amenities for under or around $100. My favorite budget steel is 14c28n but will accept others. Must have a pocket clip, a fidgety open and close mechanism and look good in my dump tray when I empty my pockets at the end of the day. What say you, masters of the knife word?
I've not had great luck with D2 holding an edge. Have a good sharpener and can put a hair shaving edge on the most recent D2 steel knife purchased from you guys. Only use it to open boxes and cut tape mostly and the edge still fades faster than I think it should (me thinking can be dangerous). Just bought a Kershaw knife with Magnacut blade. Will see if it does better in my applications.
I like Nitro V personally, that slight trade off of Stainlessness and toughness for more edge retention vs AEB-L and 14C28N is perfect for me In the mid range, I’d say S45VN, though it does need to come down more in price Premium I’d say Magnacut or Vanex For the ultra premium stuff, M398
I only have one D2 knife, a Honeybadger folder. I realy like the knife, the D2 steel is OK. On the other hand it is not as hard to sharpen as people say. What I did find was I had to sharpen the secondary bevel back to a more aquit edge. I should add, I am an older man now and have been sharpening blades scince boyhood. Also I am a full time woodworker and was a butcher before that, so maybe for everyman it is different?
I am just looking forward to Niomax if some can ever get produced. Larrin Thomas, the man, myth, and legend himself was hoping it would be the pinnacle of ingot steel for knifes.
I still have the SRM D2 blade you reviewed 2-3 years ago. I only sharpened it 3 times. I have no problems with D2. I even like the SRM company. Could you review more of there stuff?
Wow 3 comments from me on 1 video. I can’t wait to try SF2 or SFII steel. I love the way RPM9 sharpens and I’m very optimistic if it can stay in the 154CM price range. If it’s any higher I’d rather get S90V for a few dollars more.
Love the fidget factor of the cormorant, however I just got one of the Tetris patterns and it is a pocket shredder. Tried to loosen the clip and it broke, luckily Kizer is sending a free replacement, but I’m looking for any mod ideas on how to mitigate how much it shreds my pocket. Any suggestions are much appreciated!
Instead of sanding the frags down to smooth out the scale under the clip, spread some epoxy underneath where the clip touches to make a smooth “landing pad” the way Spyderco does on their scales. You can also fill in the frags with baking soda, add crazy glue, then sand smooth
@ I was thinking about filling the clip side frags, what mod would you is more durable between epoxy and the crazy glue? I don’t want to change how it looks, just how aggressive the frags are on the one side. I appreciate the help, the knife center braintrust never disappoints!
To sharpen d2. A piece of 400 grit sandpaper taped to a book makes sharpening easy and gives a bitey sharp edge. Micro bevel with jewel stick, strop- job done
Good D2 is still very good, but 14c28 and NitroV are going to be easier tor field service- all of these are very useful, and there are arguments for the razor steels over particle in the right circumstances. Kaiser 154CM is very usable stuff
Hi David, I live in the Bahamas 🇧🇸, it is a very humid climate. I have been getting knives with S30V for it stainless and edge retention. Do you think it’s a worthwhile for me to upgrade to Magnacut steel. My every day carry is Benchmade 940 and Spyderco papa 3.
For an answer to the "Most Serious Question" about a knife to fight mosquitoes, I would have opted for the Spyderco Dragonfly, since the dragonfly is the natural predator of the mosquito. :)
I thought about that too. There are many ways I could have gone with that answer, but in the end I had to go with the Zancudo. It was the logo of the skeeter with a blade on its head that put it over the top lol! -DCA
I think the old Kershaw leeks were 440A. At least that was what I had been told about mine, an old 1660BR with red/black flame anodizing. It has a date on the blade (JUL 04) but no designation of the steel printed.
Love my QSP canary made out of 14c28n easy to sharpen I just wish it lasted longer between sharpening. Will pay more for a tougher still that holds an edge longer. Unfortunately Magnacut is a little too pricey.
No love in my heart for D2, I'll be happy to see it go. IMO the little bit more edge retention you get on the cheap is not worth the added difficulty in sharpening and as mentioned it isn't even stainless. I can say there have been some budget knives I've seen that I really like and then I learn they are D2 and that's the end of it for me.
There are many Chinese-made kitchen knives that are marketed as "VG10". But if you dig deeper, the smaller-print will say "10Cr15CoMoV". So I believe "10Cr" is the Chinese equivalent to Japanese-made VG10.
Hey DCA do you know if Spyderco is going to make the Paramilitary 2 Tanto again if they are I hope it is a salt series version in LC200N or Magnacut? I would also like to know is the Spyderco Paramilitary 2 legal to EDC in Virginia?
I’m not a lawyer and this is not legal advice but I looked it up on my “Legal Blade” app and it looks like a pm2 should be legal in the state of Virginia. However, local (city, county, etc) may have different rules. You cannot take it into a school, government building, or church though. At least that’s my understanding.
Hello DCA. You are talking about that new magnacut steel thingy quite often. Can You explain why it's so special? What's making that steel different from other steels out there?
Best yard combo - silky pocket saw and silky hatchet - not much you can’t do with those…. Been using those two on my property for about 5 years and have yet to meet the job they cant tackle - anything too big for that combo needs a chainsaw or some type of power tool
The first knife to feature a wire pocket clip was the "C01 Worker" produced by Spyderco. In 1981, Spyderco introduced the concept of a pocket clip on a folding knife, essentially making Spyderco the first company to widely implement the wire pocket clip on a knife.
You overlooked an important mosquito choice: dragonflys eat them too! So maybe the dragonfly two in k390 or mythical edition in lc200n or magnacut
Really wish Spyderco would make an LC200N or a Magnacut version of the Dragonfly? I would buy one immediately! 🤔
I've long been a fan of Bob Dozier knives and his primary steel was D2. I have a drawer full of Bob's knives and never had a problem sharpening them. Bob often demonstrated how to sharpen his knives and he used diamond sharpening stones which makes sharpening D2 as easy to sharpen any other steel. Also, over the years my D2 knives have showed very little inclination to rust. Most say it is semi-stainless but it takes very little extra care to keep them rust free. Also, I'm loving the popularity of Magnacut because as the clamor increases, the cost of knives with steels that are just as good (or nearly so--we can argue the point) can often be purchased at a bargain. E.g., l love my red-handled Griptillian in 20CV that I paid (IIRC) around $99 for--a great deal from KCI! I also think that there are enough videos out there now showing that Magnacut can be "chippy" when sharpened to a fine edge so I'm not worshiping at that altar just yet. I have one Magnacut knife and that's a good plenty.
Right you are on Bob Dozier & D2. I have several knives with D2 blades, primarily because of Bob's view. I figured if it was good enough for Bob, it's good enough for me.
Little bit if history... Kershaw originally used 13C26N on the Leek but then asked Sandvik to make them 14C28N for better corrosion resistance. 14C28N was actually exclusively offered to Kershaw for a while and wouldn't exist without them.
I bought an R2D2 to use as a work knife a 3-4 years ago and as someone who had never sharpened knives before I bought a Work Sharp Guided Field Sharpener and found it quite easy to put a good sharp edge back on it. Not sure why people believe it to be hard to sharpen.
Without diamonds or ceramic, d2 it would be tough to sharpen. Give it a try on an arkansa stone. Out of the steels he mentioned d2 is my favorite, so I'm not throwing shade, just explaining.
@@ohiogarbageman9507 But thats not a reasonable explanation. diamond sharpeners and ceramic are cheap and readily available why wouldn't you use them?? Saying using a lesser tool to do the job then saying its hard or tough because you arent using the right tool is a bit ridiculous.
@@zdbrownie that's exactly why people say that. they either don't use proper tools or they're not good at sharpening in general (like not being able to consistently hold an angle) and then blame it on the steel
@zdbrownie D2 has been around a long time. Ceramic stones were new when I started sharpening. Diamond stones didn't exist. It was hard to sharpen. Now, the truth of the 1980's doesn't apply, but people still repeat the line.
@@ohiogarbageman9507 so again I say its not a reasonable explanation or reasonable logic. It simply is not true anymore. its 2025 and you want to talk about the 1980's?? Thats again just simply ridiculous.
22:53 favorite budget knife steals probably 14C28N. It can be heat treated to hold an edge as long as s30v, is way tougher, and cost less. In a way it's budget Magnacut.
The problem is, you'll pretty much never find that heat treatment on a production knife.
14c28n doesn't hold an edge as long as S30v regardless of how you do it. It does have much more toughness and a bit more corrosion resistance, though. If you can sharpen, and you don't mind sharpening more regularly, then it is likely a better steel choice than steels like S30V or Magnacut anyway.
14C28N is my budget choice as well. Nitro-V is winning me over too, but I'm not surprised. They're similar. I'm big fan of 154CM as well.
@@phil2082 The greater toughness of 14C28N allows for a thinner edge, and when you do that 14C28N will indeed have better edge retention than S30V.
The difference in edge retention as a function of geometry is vastly greater than the difference in edge retention as a function of wear resistance.
@rockets4kids A thinner edge does not have better edge retention, though... You need wear resistance to have better edge retention.
Well, I guess it's time to sharpen a 420hc knife I have at a 15 degree angle and test this.
D2 used to be tough to sharpen but with modern Diamond Sharpening Stones for around $50-$60 you can easily sharpen any steel to hair whittling sharp in under a minute. Diamond stones have changed the game. No factory edge is as sharp as one I can make in 60 seconds.
I totally agree. People keep repeating its hard to sharpen With a river stone- yes, the right gear- no
Softer AlOx and SiC stones will cut D2 faster than diamonds.
FALSE...D2 was never hard to sharpen because of the stones...and diamonds wont change that.... it was the carbides being so large that they stuck out proud on and edge below 30 degrees and were easily ripped out.
@@rockets4kids Uh, Not hardly! Only in very soft, normally chinese knockoffs of D2. It isn't exactly to the proper specs for D2 nor is it heat treated properly. Nor is the Rat! D2 does NOT lend itself to batch heat threat.
KnifeMaker
@@michaell397 AlOx and SiC are better than diamonds even for steels like Rex121 from Spyderco.
I absolutely love my Kizer Cormorant and I'm glad you showcased one for the fidget factor. It is my most favorite fidget knife. Sadly they don't make the fat carbon and elmax version anymore but still a great knife. Sharp out of the box too! Thank you DCA and Thomas
Me too now if my girlfriend will give it back to me😅😂
Man, I've seen quite a few of your videos now, and I really like how you put your words together: articulate, objective, methodical. Also, tell your cameraman he had me rolling when he said "subject to speed."
I'm only recently back to buying knives, and I've never purchased a d2 knife, but I admit I'm a bit cold towards it. I live in an arid climate, so the lower chromium isn't necessarily a deal breaker, but the extra hardness feels like overkill for my needs. I'm far from the best knife sharpener you'll ever meet. I've only used 14c28n and ar9rpm so far, but I probably overall prefer the latter. They're both plenty sharp, but I live in a boring city with a big river, so I spend alotta time on or near the water. All that extra chromium sounds like music to my ears.
Thank you for the kind words Nate! -DCA
In my opinion David is the best knowledgeable personality in the industry and a knife designer too. Keep up all the great work!
I have a few D2 knives and they stay sharp, I use a diamond hone so it's easy to put on a good edge no complaints.
Ontario rocks with their knives, just got their new 1.5 with Magnacut Steel and it comes shaving sharp, after stropping just a little it shaves nicely. For a price tag below a 100 bucks it is a nice addition to anyone's collection.
Then it doesn’t come shaving sharp lmao,
No reason to choose D2 when 14C28N has nearly the same wear-resistance and is many times tougher. It's also easier to sharpen. The corrosion resistance is bonus. 14C28N is in the same family as 13C26, AEB-L, and 420HC -- they all have similar properties, though 14C28N is the best of these. Nitro V was meant to be an improved AEB-L but loses a lot of toughness in exchange for a little wear-resistance. 14C28N manages to gain both wear-resistance and corrosion resistance, all without losing any toughness.
KnifeSteelNerds fame Dr. Larrin Thomas rates D2 at 5 for edge retention, and 14c28n at 3. If you don't need very thin geometry, or to beat on the knife, then you don't need the extra toughness of 14c28n. If you don't need the corrosion resistance of 14c28n, like if you get coated D2, then the D2 is the better bet. For folding knives, coated D2 is leagues better than 14c28n, with specialty exceptions for things like razor blades or knives to beat on.
@@phil2082 KnifeSteelNerds fame Dr. Larrin Thomas is basing this on the CATRA test which only measures wear resistance. The CATRA test doesn't measure wear through micro-fracture, which is the more common method of fulling out in the real world. It also doesn't account for the fact that 14C28N can be run at lower apex angles.
A lot of knife makers seem to prefer to work with AEB-L, i think it may be just because theyve learnt their skill using it and know it very well. I totally agree that 14C28N is superior to NitroV in every way, Im really not liking how it is being adopted over 14C by so many companies in the last year or two.
@@phil2082 I like and use D2. But 14c and friends are going to be better field/camping blades for general use.
@@meDaleLane The single most important factor to most knife makers is how much product they can move at a high profit margin.
I love D2. It's one of my absolute favorite budget Steels. I've never had any issues sharpening it on Diamond or bonded Diamond Stones and as long as I clean it and keep it dry after use I have no issues. I'd choose it over almost any other budget Steel
Hey DCA, Seth & Thomas! Hope y'all are enjoying 2025 so far. I have 2 questions if I may be so bold.
1: I have always loved persian/trailing point knives. would you be so kind as to recommend some of your favorite suggestions for edc? I carry my zt 0462 quite often & would love something with a similar vibe. bonus points for robustness.
2: I have been meaning to grab myself a pocket tango, but here in Cali fixed blades must be worn on the hip/belt as I understand it. Is there any aftermarket/3rd party sheath that would work for this purpose?
ps: truly, thanks for everything you guys do. i'm sitting here in a hotel right now after evacuating from the wildfires, binge watching videos from the channel. you guys really always put a smile on my face. not only are you informative & helpful but the content is always engaging & entertaining. it is appreciated. kudos
As a vacuum heat treat specialist… d2 and dc53 are 2 SOLID. If you can get 59-61 hrc… your in business
I prefer it over most
The sound on that Kizer cormorant 20:17 😌👌
I love d2 and 14c. Quick and easy to sharpen on my diamond stone and take a screaming edge that lasts pretty well. And they don’t cost a fortune. I probably have a dozen thatre d2 and 14c.
I actually like d2 more than 14c. For my use I don't need a whole lot of toughness and I live in a desert so stainlessness is not that important to me. For a budget knife d2 is perfect for me.
If you are interested in picking up the Nice Guy by Kizer, it is also offered in D2 and Nitro V at a price range of $29 to $59. I have learned to keep D2 Worker Bee's (highly recommend the Ontario RAT 2) and 154CM EDC (anything Kizer or O'knife has been a phenomenal). Looking forward to seeing more of this series.
Spyderco's premier steel used to be VG-10, and Benchmade's was D2 or 154CM. I still like them and even 440C or ATS34. I find the heat treatment varies on D2. I am just a casual user/collector.
Spyderco do steel very well
154CM is my favourite budget steel
Those who know carry Spyderco
Hi David,
There are so many knife designs. What are your favorites?
For yardwork, nothing beats my BK9 to hack small limbs and my 10" Silky saw to cut the bigger stuff. This kit is so handy that I keep it tossed behind my seat in the truck when I am on the road.
Carried that same R2D2 for about 4 years and replaced it woth a denim Penguin about 4 years ago. Both D2. I always have that Penguin in my left pocket as it's my work knife. My right pocket changes. For the last week it's been my Benchmade 940-2. I like a fine toothy on my D2 for work, works great.
14C28N is still THE budget royalty! Though DC53 & RPM9 are no slouches.
I have been pleasantly surprised with the RPM-9 I used as a daily. I went into it before knowing much about it, and it's been great. It can punch above its weight, considering it's on $30 knives now.
This is a great topic and great help in understanding our budget options.
Love 154CM. Maybe slightly less edge retention than D2, but to me better in every other way, including ease of sharpening.
If you can sharpen excellently or find a great sharpener, like I have to, D2 is almost alien sharp. Great steel. Lasts a very long time for most EDC users.
Very good point on carbide size and grindability, stuff like 10v and 15v is actually quite easy to sharpen because the carbides are literally smaller than red blood cells.
Having broken several tips of Kershaw Leeks with only moderate use, I can tell you that 14C28 is really not all that strong. Or maybe the tip is just way too acute for everyday use. Maybe both.
D2 is awesome! It's my favorite budget steel, because it holds an edge better than any other budget steel.
Get some diamond sharpening plates and it'll sharpen right up.
I have several knives with D2 steel. If you take care of your knives, the lack of "stainless" is not really an issue. It may take a little more effort to sharpen them, but they perform great once sharpened. I have high tech steels also, but I don't mind D2 at all.
As a hunter i love d2 and 14c. Both similar edge retention (super steel or toughness not needed). Both touch up with diamond stick well
Good to see the ESEE's on the table. The 5 is a beast. The 6 is best all round. The Junglas is on my wish list.....! Keep up the good work. Education on knife steels is greatly appreciated.
Hi David,
You made two fixed knives that are for sale. What folding knives come close to your fix blade designs?
Medford will charge you $800 for a D2 knife
This was really a very helpful and informative episode!
Hey, DCA, Thomas, Seth, and the KnifeCenter team!
I’m a college professor, and knifes with a blade longer than 2.5” are prohibited on campus. Aside from my Victorinox Mini Champ (which is always on my keychain) and my Victorinox Bantam Alox (which is always in my wallet) my carry rotation for work includes a CRKT Squid, a vintage Case slipjoint, and a Milwaukee Fastback 6-in-1. I like the relatively beefy handle of the Squid for its size. Do you have any recommendations for a more premium knife with a similar grip/hand feel? I’d also appreciate some fixed-blade carry options, with the same blade-length requirements and hand-feel preferences mentioned above.
Thanks for all you do!
Hi David,
What is the biggest knife in dimensions that is practical? What are 5 examples?
I love VG-10, and have found 10Cr to be equivalent for my needs. It's a great balanced steel.
Hi David,
Could you compare 5 knives and 5 machetes of roughly the same size in length?
I love D2, i live in a pretty humid place in the summer and ive never had an issue with staining.
When I got back Iinto knives.. all the esee stuf 1st. Then as a folder I eventually got the avispa in d2. During covid.
My father was killed and I burried it w him. Since then I ve had several more of zancudos and avisapas.
I ve carried prisdio2 for 5 years now and honestly d2 is just as good in EVERY way as 30v.
Hi David,
Do some knives come with gun safety select switches to open folding knives?
I have a couple of old original Queen Cutlery slip joint knives with D2 blades and those blades are a royal PITA to sharpen, they seem so hard they just feel like they're sliding across ice instead of a sharpening stone, it takes forever to touch them up, but they do stay sharp for a long time. I also have a Rat 2 and a Rat 1 with D2 and the heat treating must be a bit different on those because while staying sharp for a good while, they are easier to touch up. As far as stainless goes, they're stainless enough at about 12% chromium, I actually prefer plain old carbon steel anyway, so being stainless isn't a concern for me.
FUN FACT: D2 steel is always in quantum superposition, it will only be stainless when users are directly observing it.
Once you forget its existence, it might decay into the void.
I own the Rat II and the Elementum. Both awesome knives. If you complain about sharpening D2, odds are you carry a dirty handgun as well.
I never understood why D2 caught on as the budget steel of choice when 14c28n exists. Most people don’t need ultimate edge retention at the expense of toughness and corrosion resistance. 14c28n has both qualities in spades and the ease of sharpening makes the decreased edge retention far less of an issue.
Nitro-V and AEB-L, as relatives of 14c28n, are equally as awesome and always made far more sense to me than D2.
I remember when Civivi was first really taking off as a brand - they had tons of D2 options (the Elementum being the most well known) but I think they only had one model in 14c28n, the Riffle.
I’m glad we are seeing 14c28n and Nitro-v take over. 154cm is also pretty exciting, but I’m worried that it’s going to be run on the soft side. It really jumps up in capability the harder you run it. Shame we aren’t seeing ATS-34 get the same love. The IDEAL would be RWL-34 and CPM-154 become the new standard for the “middle” tier knives from the big Chinese OEMs.
My favorite choice is 14c28n and nitro V
But I prioritize toughness pretty high, and a LOT of my D2 blades have chipped or snapped completely.
Sure I'm tough on my knives, but it's what I do.....
The Dragonfly is the way to fight mosquitos!
Hi DCA, great video! I wanted to know which you think is a better folding knife for food prep; the Civivi Hid or the Kizer Momo? Thanks.
Same question ^^
Both knives are great options for food preparation and general use, but they have distinct differences in materials and warranties. Here's a comparison to help you decide:
---
### **CIVIVI Hid Thumb Stud Knife**
**Blade Material**: 14C28N stainless steel
- Excellent for food preparation due to its corrosion resistance and edge retention.
- Sandvik 14C28N is known for being easy to sharpen and maintaining a fine edge, which is ideal for slicing tasks.
**Handle Material**: G10
- Lightweight, durable, and resistant to moisture and chemicals, making it well-suited for use in wet environments like kitchens.
**Warranty**:
- CIVIVI offers a **limited lifetime warranty** covering material and manufacturing defects.
- Customer service is often highly rated, with easy replacement or repair processes.
---
### **Kizer Momo Pocket Folding Knife**
**Blade Material**: 154CM stainless steel
- Also a strong choice for food prep, offering good edge retention and corrosion resistance, though it may not hold an edge as long as 14C28N in wet environments.
- Slightly tougher than 14C28N, meaning it can handle harder use without chipping.
**Handle Material**: Aluminum
- More robust than G10 but heavier.
- Aluminum handles can feel colder and less grippy, especially if your hands are wet or oily.
**Warranty**:
- Kizer provides a **limited lifetime warranty**, similar to CIVIVI, but their service is not as universally praised.
---
### **Which Is Better for Food Preparation?**
- **Blade**: CIVIVI's 14C28N blade is slightly better for food prep due to its finer edge and superior corrosion resistance.
- **Handle**: G10 (CIVIVI) offers better grip and comfort in wet conditions compared to aluminum (Kizer).
### **Warranty Comparison**
Both brands have similar warranties, but CIVIVI is known for smoother customer service.
---
### **Recommendation**
If your primary concern is **food preparation**, the **CIVIVI Hid Thumb Stud Knife** edges out due to its corrosion resistance, sharper blade, and more comfortable handle. However, the **Kizer Momo Knife** is better suited for camping or harder-use tasks outside of food prep due to its tougher blade and aluminum handle. But, I respectfully know, you didn't ask me.
@Mastersargent3841 Thanks!
I like D2 but I need a more stainless steel . Most of my knives are S35VN or 14C28N! With a couple of 20Cv in there but those are much more expensive knives! Either way blade geometry and heat treat are also a major factor!
Why do you “need” something stainless? You don’t clean your knives?
My go to backyard knife these days is the Terava Skrama 240 and it would take a lot for another knife to take its place. It's kind of a shame that S45VN didn't get more time to saturate the knife industry before it got its lunch eaten by Magnacut. 80CrV2 is my favourite budget steel. The biggest problem with D2 is that it isn't as forgiving when you shovel hundreds of them into the oven at the same time, where you'll end up with a bunch of blades getting bad heat treatments. I'll take the AUS8 or AUS10 variant over the D2 for that reason. I have zero problems with lower production number D2 knives though.
i love S45VN, i know its not a popular opinion but taking in all it's properties i believe it is a top 3 knife steel
Edge retention is king. Long live D2.
100% as long as the steel isn't suuuper chippy edge retention is the only thing that matters. If you're rusting a knife you're doing something wrong.
I've had bad luck with some companies, either the D2 is too soft or too brittle. So far, Böker has been good, Shieldon okay but nothing spectacular. Shooziz was too brittle. That's what I remember off-hand.
@@AmbuBadger Yeah it seems like D2 is all over the place with heat treatment from different companies. More so than other steels
@@kirkmagill7313 That's what bugs me, the lack of consistency. 14C28N seems to be good across the board.
I'm looking at two potential beaters from Swisstech, the Haltbar in VG10 and the Kräftig in D2. I feel like they're made for different purposes, the Haltbar being more for bushcrafting like a Mora, and the Kräftig being like the Gerber Strongarm for abuse.
Lol 😂😂
D2 is still a good steel in my opinion and I have never had a blade stain. I live in the rainy Northwest and about 2 miles from the salty Puget Sound. Good steel in deed. Thanks 🎸🔪
Great point David, steels that have moved down-market still cut everything they did before. Was good then, still is now.
Along a related note though, one of my favorite party tricks is to cut open steel cans using my pocket knife. Please hear me out before lecturing me on "How Not to Treat Your Knife." Many knives, from about mid-grade on up, are made from tool steels that were designed to cut or shape metal, including other steels. If the tool steel was designed for this duty, what's the harm? So here's the question: What are some alloys and/or geometric features that would make a knife tolerant of this so-called abuse? (P.S. I'm grown up enough not to try to make warranty claims if I do something clearly stupid...)
This video has convinced me to buy an R2D2. Thanks DCA!
My original Benchmade Griptillian that I bought at a Cabela’s like 14 years ago is in D2. It’s a be-otch to get an edge on it.
I still throw some D2 knives in my pocket sometimes! Elementum gets in there a lot just cause I have a few rit dyed variants to pick from
I have a few Benchmade that have D2 the SOCP folder gen 2 and the auto adamas. D2 is great if it’s coated in my opinion. Great video DCA!
Something to keep in mind, benchmade usually uses CPM D2, which most steel people consider non-budget because of the CPM process. It is definitely not the same as normal D2.
Queen Cutlery used D2 from 2002 in all of their slip joints
And the prices were not expensive
Great steel
I was trying to make an Altoid survival kit. What do you think would be some of the best knives you could put in it small enough to not take up too much room but large enough to be used safely and do some actual work
I love a sheepsfoot knife. I also love a marlin spike. Do you think we will ever see a "salt" type version of a mariner knife? Maybe with MagnaCut or LC200N? That would make so much sense to me.
Hello DCA and KC, I have been collecting folding knives for a while now, and I have finally figured out the criteria I look for in folding knives (long expensive process). Now I am wanting to start fixed blade collecting, do you have any go to recommendations for beginner fixed blades to start collecting at, and what type of steel to look for? Stainless vs carbon steels. Thanks
Hi, DCA and Thomas.
I live inn a major, northern city, so I cannot wear a fixed blade on my belt, nor would I want to. But I go out to visit my parents a lot, and they live out in the country, where I do a lot of stuff around the house. I always have a Leatherman with me (both location" and when I've out there, I've recently tried carrying a few different fixed blades. I've found that I like the Elementum fixed blade and recently tried carrying it horizontally, on my front right hip, for right-hand draw. I like it, but the knife is really way too big for that. Can you recommend a good knife for this? I'm thinking 1.5" - 2" blade, and I realize that I'm probably looking at a 3-finger grip at best, considering my slightly larger than average hands. In addition, just to sound even more finicky, I'd like a sheath that Kydex or a similar material that "locks" the knife in place.
Thanks for any help you can provide.
P.S. I love when you sneak in super nerdy references every now and then.
By the numbers: Using the numbers from Dr. Larrin Thomas of KnifeSteelNerds fame:
D2 is at 3.5 for toughness, 5 for edge retention, and 4.5 for corrosion resistance. So:
Toughness / edge retention / corrosion resistance
D2 is at 3.5 / 5 / 4.5
14c28n is 9 / 3 / 8.5
420HC is 9 / 2.5 / 8
8cr13mov is 6 / 3 / 7
Super steels, to compare:
M390/20cv at 3.5 / 6.5 / 9
S90V is way up at 3.5 / 9 / 7.5
S30V is at 4 / 6 / 7.5
S35VN at 5 / 5 / 7.5
Magnacut at 7 / 5 / 9.5
D2 is the same edge retention as Magnacut and S35VN. It has less toughness, which means it is worse for thin geometry or beating on, which doesn't matter for normal folding knives. It has less corrosion resistance, which just means you should use coated D2. Basically, coated D2 is as good as uncoated Magnacut and S35VN for a folding knife. Coated D2 is very close to S30V, and is closer to 20CV than it is to 14c28n for edge retention.
If you need to beat on a fixed blade, D2 is not better than other options. If you need to have corrosion resistance, D2 is not the best. If you don't rust knives (or you get coated D2), and you are using a folder, then you should probably go for cheap coated D2 over expensive magnacut or S35vn.
That numbers doesn't really correlate with real life use to be honest. Only 10% better edge retention for m390 over s30v? Bollocks. Properly treated 20cv/m390 hold the edge much better than any s30v.
@Nudel-nc1cp I don't think you've ever used them side by side, with the same geometry, and put numbers on these things. Clearly, that's what science is for: Removing your feelings from things, and telling you how you should actually feel, by putting numbers on things.
@@phil2082 Well. I know it is scientific but only in one way: straight push cut with CATRA test. Not really valuable in real life scenarios. I sharpen all my pocket knives on 17,5 degree per side with same stones up to 3000 grit. So... You are wrong about me.
Hey DCA14MOv, great video this week, great topics, but got me thinking, how great the budget steels are and how companies are putting together great stuff super cheap, but what might be even more impressive is companies like Bestech putting a few MagnaCut blades under a $100, we may be in the golden age of production knives right now, bring us some good shot show stuff
Greetings, my fellow knife lovers. With all the great knife options we are fortunate have in this day and age, I am having trouble sorting through the quagmire to find my next purchase. I am looking a modern version of a gentleman’s knife. One that drips old school class while being fidget friendly. Slip-joint vibes with modern amenities for under or around $100. My favorite budget steel is 14c28n but will accept others. Must have a pocket clip, a fidgety open and close mechanism and look good in my dump tray when I empty my pockets at the end of the day. What say you, masters of the knife word?
I've not had great luck with D2 holding an edge. Have a good sharpener and can put a hair shaving edge on the most recent D2 steel knife purchased from you guys. Only use it to open boxes and cut tape mostly and the edge still fades faster than I think it should (me thinking can be dangerous). Just bought a Kershaw knife with Magnacut blade. Will see if it does better in my applications.
It sounds like a utility knife would be a better choice for how you use your knife.
@@rwillaz don't lose any sleep over my knife choices.
I like Nitro V personally, that slight trade off of Stainlessness and toughness for more edge retention vs AEB-L and 14C28N is perfect for me
In the mid range, I’d say S45VN, though it does need to come down more in price
Premium I’d say Magnacut or Vanex
For the ultra premium stuff, M398
I only have one D2 knife and i haven't had any trouble being it sharp just by stropping it when it seems like it's not cutting the way i like.
Honestly, D2 is really great, but with 14C, Nitro V and 154CM coming down in price... it is tough to choose it.
I only have one D2 knife, a Honeybadger folder. I realy like the knife, the D2 steel is OK. On the other hand it is not as hard to sharpen as people say. What I did find was I had to sharpen the secondary bevel back to a more aquit edge. I should add, I am an older man now and have been sharpening blades scince boyhood. Also I am a full time woodworker and was a butcher before that, so maybe for everyman it is different?
I am just looking forward to Niomax if some can ever get produced. Larrin Thomas, the man, myth, and legend himself was hoping it would be the pinnacle of ingot steel for knifes.
I still have the SRM D2 blade you reviewed 2-3 years ago. I only sharpened it 3 times. I have no problems with D2. I even like the SRM company. Could you review more of there stuff?
Wow 3 comments from me on 1 video. I can’t wait to try SF2 or SFII steel. I love the way RPM9 sharpens and I’m very optimistic if it can stay in the 154CM price range. If it’s any higher I’d rather get S90V for a few dollars more.
my daily carry is a Kizer sheepdog XL in 154CM.... no complaints
Not sure about the origin of the wire pocket clip, but I think the first examples I can remember were on knives coming from Italy.
The first i can think of is the dragonfly 2 but something tells me that one cant be the first 😅
Love the fidget factor of the cormorant, however I just got one of the Tetris patterns and it is a pocket shredder. Tried to loosen the clip and it broke, luckily Kizer is sending a free replacement, but I’m looking for any mod ideas on how to mitigate how much it shreds my pocket. Any suggestions are much appreciated!
Instead of sanding the frags down to smooth out the scale under the clip, spread some epoxy underneath where the clip touches to make a smooth “landing pad” the way Spyderco does on their scales. You can also fill in the frags with baking soda, add crazy glue, then sand smooth
@ I was thinking about filling the clip side frags, what mod would you is more durable between epoxy and the crazy glue? I don’t want to change how it looks, just how aggressive the frags are on the one side. I appreciate the help, the knife center braintrust never disappoints!
@ I’d use a clear 5 minute epoxy. I’m only talking about an area the size of a dime under the clip contact point
Civivi's heat treatment / tempering on D2 steel is excellent.
I have a d2 boker trapper and it is awesome. Made in Germany
To sharpen d2. A piece of 400 grit sandpaper taped to a book makes sharpening easy and gives a bitey sharp edge. Micro bevel with jewel stick, strop- job done
Good D2 is still very good, but 14c28 and NitroV are going to be easier tor field service- all of these are very useful, and there are arguments for the razor steels over particle in the right circumstances. Kaiser 154CM is very usable stuff
I believe Tariffs will define where knives will be bought in future.
The landscape is in for a massive overhaul.
Good program. Enjoyed it very much.
First wire clips I remember seeing were on one of the Italian companies. Maybe Fox
I’ve been eying either White River M1 Skinner or Tops Bull Trout. Would love to see a comparison or any models similar I may be overlooking.
Hi David,
I live in the Bahamas 🇧🇸, it is a very humid climate. I have been getting knives with S30V for it stainless and edge retention. Do you think it’s a worthwhile for me to upgrade to Magnacut steel. My every day carry is Benchmade 940 and Spyderco papa 3.
For an answer to the "Most Serious Question" about a knife to fight mosquitoes, I would have opted for the Spyderco Dragonfly, since the dragonfly is the natural predator of the mosquito. :)
At this point I stick with 14c and nitro v. d2 is alright but not a deal breaker
Dear DCA,
The best knife to fight mosquitoes is, their natural enemy, Dragonfly, of course.
I cannot believe you let it fly by right under your nose.
I thought about that too. There are many ways I could have gone with that answer, but in the end I had to go with the Zancudo. It was the logo of the skeeter with a blade on its head that put it over the top lol! -DCA
I think the old Kershaw leeks were 440A. At least that was what I had been told about mine, an old 1660BR with red/black flame anodizing. It has a date on the blade (JUL 04) but no designation of the steel printed.
I like D2, have some good knives with D2 blades! KoA uses D2 on their knives! Also like 14C28N, AEBL and Nitro V...🤔
Love my QSP canary made out of 14c28n easy to sharpen I just wish it lasted longer between sharpening. Will pay more for a tougher still that holds an edge longer. Unfortunately Magnacut is a little too pricey.
what about aus-10? I think it's a pretty good budget steel.
No love in my heart for D2, I'll be happy to see it go. IMO the little bit more edge retention you get on the cheap is not worth the added difficulty in sharpening and as mentioned it isn't even stainless. I can say there have been some budget knives I've seen that I really like and then I learn they are D2 and that's the end of it for me.
I think 154 cm is an awesome steel. Would love to see it become the default for budget knives.
There are many Chinese-made kitchen knives that are marketed as "VG10". But if you dig deeper, the smaller-print will say "10Cr15CoMoV". So I believe "10Cr" is the Chinese equivalent to Japanese-made VG10.
Hey DCA do you know if Spyderco is going to make the Paramilitary 2 Tanto again if they are I hope it is a salt series version in LC200N or Magnacut? I would also like to know is the Spyderco Paramilitary 2 legal to EDC in Virginia?
If there's a PM2 Tanto in Magnacut I'll give away my money like I'm Joe Biden and Spyderco is Ukraine!
Love it.! Hello from Australia.
I’m not a lawyer and this is not legal advice but I looked it up on my “Legal Blade” app and it looks like a pm2 should be legal in the state of Virginia. However, local (city, county, etc) may have different rules. You cannot take it into a school, government building, or church though. At least that’s my understanding.
Hello DCA. You are talking about that new magnacut steel thingy quite often. Can You explain why it's so special? What's making that steel different from other steels out there?
Best yard combo - silky pocket saw and silky hatchet - not much you can’t do with those…. Been using those two on my property for about 5 years and have yet to meet the job they cant tackle - anything too big for that combo needs a chainsaw or some type of power tool