I bought one in December during a cold snap. Put gas in and engine would not start. Fuel line and carb bowl were full of water and frozen solid, gas tank had some in the very bottom also. Took pic of the frozen bowl and drained and cleaned system...fresh gas and started fine. Tractor supply manager got an ear full the next day, and he gave me the 70 dollar log rack for free for my trouble.
I recently bought this same splitter. I purchased two racks from TSC and attached them together. I think this is a must. I load big rounds onto the racks from the front bucket on tractor. Two racks allow more rounds at a time. But more importantly when I had only one rack, half of a big split round slid off the one rack and just missed the motor, which could have destroyed the motor. I then purchased a third rack to cover the hydraulic filter. Two bolts are existing to use a small plate to attach rack and the other side of rack rack lines up with existing fender mounting holes to attach a support. I have dropped big split halves that hit that the rack which would have sheared off the hydraulic filter and possibly even ruined the tank. I bought the 4 way wedge and it is very easy to attach and use, but the side wedges are very short, about 2", and even though it splits the wood horizontally, the wedges leave strings which have to be chopped to separate. I cut those wedges off and bought 5" wedges and welded them on in place of the 2" wedges. I had to notch the two standing wood cleaner strippers for the wedges to clear. I first notched the wedges to clear the strippers but it left wedges weak at their notches. That is why the manufacturer of the 4 way wedge made them so short, to clear the strippers. It now works very good.
I just bought the same splitter today and greatly appreciate your going over it!! First thing I checked was engine oil and then the hydraulic fluid (both full) and had to get used to the gas shut off on this because I’ve never seen one like that before! Great vid and I appreciate you!
Dude, I enjoyed listening to your thoughts. I just bought one myself. That inlet hose is a suction rated hose. The clear hose is an asset. Enjoy the functionality that it offers. You will always be able to see the oil condition and if you have a low oil level starving the pump. There is no reason to let that hose bother you brother.
I did exact same thing. Bought two log racks. Lined the second up with the first, marked holes, drilled 1/2” holes and bolted it on. Engine is completely protected. I use a 14” flexible funnel to fill the gas tank. Some extra money but worth it. I did it before loading up the first log.
I have the older CountyLine 22 ton model, it's essentially the same unit, except I think the 25 ton has a slightly larger cylinder and a slightly upgraded hyd pump. It does have the same beam and the same Kohler SH265 engine on it as mine does. I think these units are built by Speeco, but someone can correct me if that's wrong? I really like mine, bought it 2nd hand about 4 yrs ago for $750. I just had to replace all the wheel bearings and one tire recently, and also replaced the hyd fluid filter. Also, just last week I replaced all the seals in the cylinder, which was a new experience for me as I had never done it before. Took me about 3 hours and watching a lot of DIY videos on youtube, but I got 'er done and so far no leaks! I really like mine, have used it a fair amount in the 4 yrs I've had it. It came with a decent rack on one side and it's a little bent up as to be expected, but not bad. I am probably going to replace it with a smallish sized hitch haul I built that slides into a standard 2" hitch receiver, but first I will have to weld a 2" sq tube onto the beam so I''ll have a place to slide the hitch haul into and pin it in place. That way, it will be removable!!! The only tips I will add are that before towing it anywhere, run ALL THE FUEL out of the engine. That may be in the manual, but I don't have the manual so I'm not sure. If you don't shut the fuel off and run it out of the carburetor, it can flood the engine and maybe even get some gas into the engine oil. Also, if you are going to tow it, that little vent in the metal plug for the hyd fluid, which has the dipstick on it, should be plugged! Find something to jam up in there before towing! If you tow it without plugging it, it will slosh hyd fluid ALL OVER the outside of the fluid tank!!!! Just be sure to unplug that vent before operation so it can vent air!!! Good luck!!!!
@@kebo57 I don’t tow it too often but I did learn my lesson with the hydro fluid. I think this is year two with this splitter it’s still running strong. My old one had a different cylinder type, I replaced the seals in it but it was not fun. When I bought this one I intentionally looked at how the seals are setup and I think they should be easier than the last, I at least like how they lock in better than the old one. Thanks for watching the video.
The low hydraulic fluid is because the dealer filled the tank full, but the first time you ran the machine the lines and ram cylinder filled up, requiring additional fluid.
I just bought the same splitter, and it came low on hydraulic oil. I bought the log catcher and put that on last night. I'm going to go over the rest of the machine today and go get a gallon of AW32. I think this is a good splitter for the money as I did research as well.. Good video and good luck with your spiltter.
Thank you. I think it’s going to be a good splitter too. I was expecting one or two things to be loose or off from the store, it makes me wonder though how many people may miss some of those items and cause damage to the machine without knowing.
I have 35 year old vertical/horizontal splitter in very similar design, but my beam is flat so I have to keep hands on the block, it's VERY VERY VERY ANOYING!!!!!!!! After seeing how yours is with that valley between wedge and plate, I'm going to somehow do same thing, I am so sick and tied of setting a block on splitter and it rolls right off. The only trick I see is cutting right size holes for debris to fall through..... The other thing I like about yours is the wedge design where it looks like about 1" for several inches then widens out, my wedge widens right from the edge, so when I spit hard splitting wood, it takes more pressure to split, so when the wood does split, it goes BANG and flies at me, I hate that BANG!!!! Sometimes it hurts. Therefore I'm thinking if my wedge was just 1/2" -1" for sever al inches before it widens out, the wedge would slice into the block more easier and split easier and I wouldn't get that BANG with wood flying, it's real bad when dry and or frozen... Also, the first thing I did on my splitter was make removable selves over motor, sooner or later you will drop wood on your motor so make or buy selves ASAP, they are also necessary for hold wood.......
I bought the same splitter from T/S several years ago but mine was a Huskee before I brought it home 1 1/2 hour ride they started the spliter up and ran the engine and extended the ram to show it worked by the time I got home the engine was locked up tight called T/S they said bring it back for a replacement & it also needed hydrolic fluid but I have used it now for 5-6 years and split a lot of wood with no problem I did buy the catch table for the county line splitter and it bolted on no problem I wish i got it sooner I only paid $999.00 when I bought mine and worth every penny........
I have this same splitter I bought used off a buddy in excellent condition I’ve had it for 5 years or so. My first issue was the bolts that hold the handle to engage the splitter kept coming loose,I forgot to tighten them one year and lost one,I bought a couple more at Ace and used some locktite no problems since. The only other issue I had was the hydraulic filter got clogged up and it leaked fluid,I replaced the filter(found one online)topped the fluid and no issues since. I also oil the rail the wedge slides on before each use.I’m interested to see what bolt on attachment I’ve seen mentioned here.
I have been using this splitter for a few years now and it has been great. Had a warranty replacement but outside of that, it has been great. Got it when they were under $900! Have a video on a must have bolt on upgrade for this on my channel, have to have the log catcher. Great Video.
Just got home from TSC with mine. They had them in the upright position at the store. The manual and paperwork in the black tube are totally soaked with water and a soggy mess, definitely not water tight by any means :(
I recently bought a 27 ton Craftsman splitter and it looks nearly identical to your model. Same Kohler engine. Same sticker for oil type. Same clear input hose and hydraulic valve. It had a table on the slide. I have a question. I realize it's important to operate them on level ground so it doesn't get air into the input line. Mine is VERY sensitive to being out of level. However in my case, I see a lot of small bubbles passing through the input line when it's running. The fluid level is correct but I'm still seeing the bubbles. Do you see the same with yours?
Just got done welding up my tank, Ive never seen somthing built for work be built so cheap, I'm building a quality one this winter with its parts. 25 ton my ass
You probably would wanna clean it out before you put it up for storage,but the wood chips dont interfere with its operation. If you left em long term theyd hold moisture and cause rust
I wish I had not bought my Countyline 25-ton splitter, but it's too late now and I guess I'm stuck with it. I HATE the design of the beam that the wedge slides on. My old splitter (a 40-year-old Yard Machine) had a beam with a simple flat surface, easy to wipe off and keep clean. The new Countyline has a (whatever you call it) groove that the wedge rides in -- a perfect trap to catch wood chips and splinters that needss constant cleaning (I finally had to set up my air compressor next to it so as to blow everything clean several times a work session.) Today I actually got a fat wood chip crammed in beside the wedge and had to get my pry bar to free it. Stupid stupid design.
I bought one in December during a cold snap. Put gas in and engine would not start. Fuel line and carb bowl were full of water and frozen solid, gas tank had some in the very bottom also.
Took pic of the frozen bowl and drained and cleaned system...fresh gas and started fine. Tractor supply manager got an ear full the next day, and he gave me the 70 dollar log rack for free for my trouble.
Would like to see more product reviews on this channel. Will come back in 12 months for the year review and durability results.
I recently bought this same splitter. I purchased two racks from TSC and attached them together. I think this is a must. I load big rounds onto the racks from the front bucket on tractor. Two racks allow more rounds at a time. But more importantly when I had only one rack, half of a big split round slid off the one rack and just missed the motor, which could have destroyed the motor. I then purchased a third rack to cover the hydraulic filter. Two bolts are existing to use a small plate to attach rack and the other side of rack rack lines up with existing fender mounting holes to attach a support. I have dropped big split halves that hit that the rack which would have sheared off the hydraulic filter and possibly even ruined the tank. I bought the 4 way wedge and it is very easy to attach and use, but the side wedges are very short, about 2", and even though it splits the wood horizontally, the wedges leave strings which have to be chopped to separate. I cut those wedges off and bought 5" wedges and welded them on in place of the 2" wedges. I had to notch the two standing wood cleaner strippers for the wedges to clear. I first notched the wedges to clear the strippers but it left wedges weak at their notches. That is why the manufacturer of the 4 way wedge made them so short, to clear the strippers. It now works very good.
I just bought the same splitter today and greatly appreciate your going over it!! First thing I checked was engine oil and then the hydraulic fluid (both full) and had to get used to the gas shut off on this because I’ve never seen one like that before! Great vid and I appreciate you!
Dude, I enjoyed listening to your thoughts. I just bought one myself. That inlet hose is a suction rated hose. The clear hose is an asset. Enjoy the functionality that it offers. You will always be able to see the oil condition and if you have a low oil level starving the pump. There is no reason to let that hose bother you brother.
I did exact same thing. Bought two log racks. Lined the second up with the first, marked holes, drilled 1/2” holes and bolted it on. Engine is completely protected. I use a 14” flexible funnel to fill the gas tank. Some extra money but worth it. I did it before loading up the first log.
Gettin one this weekend. Used but couldn’t beat the price. Helpful now knowing what to look for.
Ty
I have the older CountyLine 22 ton model, it's essentially the same unit, except I think the 25 ton has a slightly larger cylinder and a slightly upgraded hyd pump. It does have the same beam and the same Kohler SH265 engine on it as mine does. I think these units are built by Speeco, but someone can correct me if that's wrong? I really like mine, bought it 2nd hand about 4 yrs ago for $750. I just had to replace all the wheel bearings and one tire recently, and also replaced the hyd fluid filter. Also, just last week I replaced all the seals in the cylinder, which was a new experience for me as I had never done it before. Took me about 3 hours and watching a lot of DIY videos on youtube, but I got 'er done and so far no leaks! I really like mine, have used it a fair amount in the 4 yrs I've had it. It came with a decent rack on one side and it's a little bent up as to be expected, but not bad. I am probably going to replace it with a smallish sized hitch haul I built that slides into a standard 2" hitch receiver, but first I will have to weld a 2" sq tube onto the beam so I''ll have a place to slide the hitch haul into and pin it in place. That way, it will be removable!!! The only tips I will add are that before towing it anywhere, run ALL THE FUEL out of the engine. That may be in the manual, but I don't have the manual so I'm not sure. If you don't shut the fuel off and run it out of the carburetor, it can flood the engine and maybe even get some gas into the engine oil. Also, if you are going to tow it, that little vent in the metal plug for the hyd fluid, which has the dipstick on it, should be plugged! Find something to jam up in there before towing! If you tow it without plugging it, it will slosh hyd fluid ALL OVER the outside of the fluid tank!!!! Just be sure to unplug that vent before operation so it can vent air!!! Good luck!!!!
@@kebo57 I don’t tow it too often but I did learn my lesson with the hydro fluid. I think this is year two with this splitter it’s still running strong. My old one had a different cylinder type, I replaced the seals in it but it was not fun. When I bought this one I intentionally looked at how the seals are setup and I think they should be easier than the last, I at least like how they lock in better than the old one. Thanks for watching the video.
The low hydraulic fluid is because the dealer filled the tank full, but the first time you ran the machine the lines and ram cylinder filled up, requiring additional fluid.
I just bought the same splitter, and it came low on hydraulic oil. I bought the log catcher and put that on last night. I'm going to go over the rest of the machine today and go get a gallon of AW32. I think this is a good splitter for the money as I did research as well.. Good video and good luck with your spiltter.
Thank you. I think it’s going to be a good splitter too. I was expecting one or two things to be loose or off from the store, it makes me wonder though how many people may miss some of those items and cause damage to the machine without knowing.
I have 35 year old vertical/horizontal splitter in very similar design, but my beam is flat so I have to keep hands on the block, it's VERY VERY VERY ANOYING!!!!!!!! After seeing how yours is with that valley between wedge and plate, I'm going to somehow do same thing, I am so sick and tied of setting a block on splitter and it rolls right off. The only trick I see is cutting right size holes for debris to fall through.....
The other thing I like about yours is the wedge design where it looks like about 1" for several inches then widens out, my wedge widens right from the edge, so when I spit hard splitting wood, it takes more pressure to split, so when the wood does split, it goes BANG and flies at me, I hate that BANG!!!! Sometimes it hurts. Therefore I'm thinking if my wedge was just 1/2" -1" for sever al inches before it widens out, the wedge would slice into the block more easier and split easier and I wouldn't get that BANG with wood flying, it's real bad when dry and or frozen...
Also, the first thing I did on my splitter was make removable selves over motor, sooner or later you will drop wood on your motor so make or buy selves ASAP, they are also necessary for hold wood.......
I bought the same splitter from T/S several years ago but mine was a Huskee before I brought it home 1 1/2 hour ride they started the spliter up and ran the engine and extended the ram to show it worked by the time I got home the engine was locked up tight called T/S they said bring it back for a replacement & it also needed hydrolic fluid but I have used it now for 5-6 years and split a lot of wood with no problem I did buy the catch table for the county line splitter and it bolted on no problem I wish i got it sooner I only paid $999.00 when I bought mine and worth every penny........
I have this same splitter I bought used off a buddy in excellent condition I’ve had it for 5 years or so. My first issue was the bolts that hold the handle to engage the splitter kept coming loose,I forgot to tighten them one year and lost one,I bought a couple more at Ace and used some locktite no problems since. The only other issue I had was the hydraulic filter got clogged up and it leaked fluid,I replaced the filter(found one online)topped the fluid and no issues since. I also oil the rail the wedge slides on before each use.I’m interested to see what bolt on attachment I’ve seen mentioned here.
The side table for this unit is well built.
I have been using this splitter for a few years now and it has been great. Had a warranty replacement but outside of that, it has been great. Got it when they were under $900! Have a video on a must have bolt on upgrade for this on my channel, have to have the log catcher. Great Video.
I check out your video/subscribed. That’s the same one I’m going to get eventually. I’ll probably get it soon
How are you going to talk about a warranty replacement without mentioning the details? Is it a secret?
I bought one 6 or 7 year’s ago. I do at least 7 cords a year and have had no problems at all
@@stevenbrown1798 nice! Thanks for watching
Maybe setup table on saw horses next to splitter?
Just got home from TSC with mine. They had them in the upright position at the store. The manual and paperwork in the black tube are totally soaked with water and a soggy mess, definitely not water tight by any means :(
Spay graphite lubricant on your slides. Dries hard and will be better than grease.
I recently bought a 27 ton Craftsman splitter and it looks nearly identical to your model. Same Kohler engine. Same sticker for oil type. Same clear input hose and hydraulic valve. It had a table on the slide. I have a question. I realize it's important to operate them on level ground so it doesn't get air into the input line. Mine is VERY sensitive to being out of level. However in my case, I see a lot of small bubbles passing through the input line when it's running. The fluid level is correct but I'm still seeing the bubbles. Do you see the same with yours?
I haven’t had that trouble with mine and I’ve ran it on some slopes. Did you figure out what the problem was?
Do you cycle the ram, all the way forward then back again, three times before splitting wood.
@@ridemfast7625 if I’m thinking about it I’ll cycle it a few times
Just got done welding up my tank, Ive never seen somthing built for work be built so cheap, I'm building a quality one this winter with its parts. 25 ton my ass
my beam broke a main weld after 15 months. and my hydraulic filter leaked on first day
Use grease on the flat behind the splitting wedge if you want. It's a low friction surface already though.
Would you have to clean out the track as you are using it,more?
You probably would wanna clean it out before you put it up for storage,but the wood chips dont interfere with its operation. If you left em long term theyd hold moisture and cause rust
I wish I had not bought my Countyline 25-ton splitter, but it's too late now and I guess I'm stuck with it. I HATE the design of the beam that the wedge slides on. My old splitter (a 40-year-old Yard Machine) had a beam with a simple flat surface, easy to wipe off and keep clean. The new Countyline has a (whatever you call it) groove that the wedge rides in -- a perfect trap to catch wood chips and splinters that needss constant cleaning (I finally had to set up my air compressor next to it so as to blow everything clean several times a work session.) Today I actually got a fat wood chip crammed in beside the wedge and had to get my pry bar to free it. Stupid stupid design.
How much cost??❤
It would be called a “U” channel
I've also heard it called a "C" channel. Probably depends on the way it's oriented.
Good video.. I bought the same machine..what is up with those bolts that are painted red ? painted red
Thats like a final look over the machine to make sure there sounds silly but its like a quality check all bolts in place