This is a real goody. I’m going to re-watch and actually take notes. (Too many distractions the first time around). Thanks for breaking down the fert issues we all face and struggle with as “uneducated” (not agronomists) homeowners. Keep up the great educational videos G! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Appreciate it! Have my other video on slow release fertilizers. Check it out too. Was happy to see high quality slow release fertilizer available for homeowners.
Thankyou for all of the helpful information. We are getting an underground sprinkler system put in, and want to transform our lawn, which has a sandy soil, and lots of weeds. we bought an aerator, have a dethatcher, and I am going to learn about the fertilizers, etc from your videos.
Thank you for all of the information and your time…. What would you say is a ball park figure for LBS of nitrogen for cool season grass during growing phases. As a whole not per application.
There are a lot of factors..how much slow release. The kind of slow release. Granular vs foliar. Then the type of soil. It's hard to put a number with all those factors.
Where can I get that Andersons 20-10-10? A google search only pointed me to Michigan and Iowa. Andersons website didnt have it either. Thanks for all the great info!
Here is a link to Anderson 20-0-11 with 2% iron that I like. I can't find a 20-10-10. If you are needing phosphorus. I would recommend going to your local southern states or farm store and getting a 20-20-20 and putting out 3lbs of the product/1000 ft2. That will give you 0.6 lbs/1000 of each nutrient. It will be very inexpensive application. Likely around $20 bucks a bag. The Anderson product has slow release via polymer coated sulphur coated urea. It's more of a professional level fertilizer. The 20-20-20 will fees your yard with Nitrogen for about 2 weeks. The Anderson product will feed it from 6 to 8 weeks. amzn.to/3I0L9Ry paid ad
Great info! I am located in southeast Alabama. Deal with a lot of centipede lawns here. Winter 2022 was very hard on centipede. Lots of damaged lawns. Most have recovered at this time. But I am thinking about my upcoming fall applications. What would be your recommendation? I was planning on a low rate pre emergent combined with a liquid potassium. Or something like a 2-2-14. Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
I think you're right on the mark. You definitely want to get your potassium up prior to winter, dormancy in warm season grasses. I would be more inclined put out a ratio of 1 to 1 of potassium and nitrogen. Nitrogen will get the sugars up in the plant prior to dormancy and will help your spring green up. Going out with a pre-emergent is an outstanding idea too. That'll keep your winter weeds from popping up. If you check out my herbicide video I speak of pre-emergent herbicides. They only break down in heat so you could pretty much put those out anytime late late fall to winter and get the spring control that you want. Thanks for checking the channel out!!
Couple of months before it goes into dormancy. As you know, centipede does not need much nitrogen. Looking at 1/3 lb 3 to 4 times a year depending on where you live. You being in south west AL, may be closer to the 4x per year to keep it green. With centipede it really is a color issue. What was the reason for the kill in southwest AL?
@@GregPhillips.22 I am in southeast Alabama. Around Christmas time, it got down in the teens here. That is tough on centipede. And then February it got unseasonably warm. Centipede came out of dormancy. And then lo and behold winter returned with a vengeance after it had greened up. We had heavy frost 3 nights in a row, and it severely damaged most all of the centipede in this area. It was tough on it.
Any place where they tell you the percentage of fast release and slow release on the fertilizers, specifically on synthetic fertilizers? Also, coming from the Concrete business, be VERY cautious with putting any fertilizers on concrete especially in cold weather states. The chemical reaction will peel the top off the concrete off, even faster than ice melt will. Also, what do you think about the Sta Green Natural that is a 16-0-10?
On the back of a fertilizer bag you will see WIN/water insoluble nitrogen or you will see polymer sulphur coated urea or polymer coated urea. Usually it's water insoluble nitrogen. Anyway those are given on a % basis so like your 16-0-10. You will see 8% WIN so that means 1/2 of the nitrogen is slow release. It's a percentage of the percentage. /so if it said 16% WIN that means all the nitrogen in the bag is slow release. As far as stay green products. I am very impressed by what the offer. It's a good low price point name brand. Thanks for the heads up about the concrete!!!
@@GregPhillips.22 Thanks for the info. I watched another one of your videos after I posted this that touched on this subject. Very informative. Another question, I have watched other youtube videos on fertilization, and they talk about quick release and slow release in liquid forms. I am confused on how a liquid can be slow release since it obviously be coated by anything. Do you have any information on this? Thanks again.
You have time to take a soil test so base the amount of phosphorus and potassium on the soil test results. Depends on the condition of your grass. If it is a little on the thin side from summer. Go with agricultural grad fertilizer around Labor Day. Then first of November put down another application of nitrogen fertilizer at 1 lb/1000 ft2. If you made it through summer and you are happy with it. Put a organic fertilizer on just after Labor Day. And again just after Halloween. 1 lb of N each time. Putting the phosphorus and potassium application down in that first September feed..
Close out the year for warm season grasses is a high potassium application. For warm season grasses I always recommend doing a soil test in august, check pH an potassium levels. Particularly for an acidic soil put your lime and get potassium into the soil at least 8 weeks before dormancy. That will give you all winter adjusting pH and help with winter hardiness. Spring green up apply nitrogen. At Augustine needs 2 to 4 lbs per year. See my slow release fertilizer video. Ideal is use a polymer coated and water soluble fertilizers for the year. Apply a water insoluble (ag grade) at 1 lb/1000 at green up. To get things going. Then in mid may put down 2lbs/1000 polymer coated. That will feed you most of the summer. In August evaluate your color, coverage. Put another 1 to 1/2 lb down. Then the cycle starts again. That wound hold true for Bermuda too.
I am always careful about liquid fertilizers..stick with the label particularly with nitrogen fertilizers. Will say working on a video "which is better" granular or liquid fertilizers..I am finding both used together gives best results.
1 to 2 lbs usually is the amount of the particular nutrient you are putting out per 1000 ft2. The amount of the fertilizer you would put out to achieve that amount of the nutrient..hope that answers your question..
Will say, most of the university studies on coffee grinds, compost tea and many of the "hacks"/non traditional things you see online really don't make much of a difference.
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This is a real goody. I’m going to re-watch and actually take notes. (Too many distractions the first time around). Thanks for breaking down the fert issues we all face and struggle with as “uneducated” (not agronomists) homeowners. Keep up the great educational videos G! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful! Appreciate it! Have my other video on slow release fertilizers. Check it out too. Was happy to see high quality slow release fertilizer available for homeowners.
Outstanding information. Thank you
Thanks for your hard work sir
Appreciate the kind words.
Thankyou for all of the helpful information. We are getting an underground sprinkler system put in, and want to transform our lawn, which has a sandy soil, and lots of weeds. we bought an aerator, have a dethatcher, and I am going to learn about the fertilizers, etc from your videos.
Thanks so much. My irrigation video just posted today. Sounds like you are gearing up! Good luck!!!
Love your stuff man! Been watching since 6am. Its now 9am
Love it!! Thanks!!!
Thank you for all of the information and your time….
What would you say is a ball park figure for LBS of nitrogen for cool season grass during growing phases. As a whole not per application.
There are a lot of factors..how much slow release. The kind of slow release. Granular vs foliar. Then the type of soil. It's hard to put a number with all those factors.
Where can I get that Andersons 20-10-10? A google search only pointed me to Michigan and Iowa. Andersons website didnt have it either. Thanks for all the great info!
Here is a link to Anderson 20-0-11 with 2% iron that I like. I can't find a 20-10-10. If you are needing phosphorus. I would recommend going to your local southern states or farm store and getting a 20-20-20 and putting out 3lbs of the product/1000 ft2. That will give you 0.6 lbs/1000 of each nutrient. It will be very inexpensive application. Likely around $20 bucks a bag. The Anderson product has slow release via polymer coated sulphur coated urea. It's more of a professional level fertilizer. The 20-20-20 will fees your yard with Nitrogen for about 2 weeks. The Anderson product will feed it from 6 to 8 weeks. amzn.to/3I0L9Ry paid ad
Great info! I am located in southeast Alabama. Deal with a lot of centipede lawns here. Winter 2022 was very hard on centipede. Lots of damaged lawns. Most have recovered at this time. But I am thinking about my upcoming fall applications. What would be your recommendation? I was planning on a low rate pre emergent combined with a liquid potassium. Or something like a 2-2-14. Would love to hear your thoughts. Thanks!
I think you're right on the mark. You definitely want to get your potassium up prior to winter, dormancy in warm season grasses. I would be more inclined put out a ratio of 1 to 1 of potassium and nitrogen. Nitrogen will get the sugars up in the plant prior to dormancy and will help your spring green up. Going out with a pre-emergent is an outstanding idea too. That'll keep your winter weeds from popping up. If you check out my herbicide video I speak of pre-emergent herbicides. They only break down in heat so you could pretty much put those out anytime late late fall to winter and get the spring control that you want. Thanks for checking the channel out!!
@@GregPhillips.22 nitrogen going into winter on centipede?
Couple of months before it goes into dormancy. As you know, centipede does not need much nitrogen. Looking at 1/3 lb 3 to 4 times a year depending on where you live. You being in south west AL, may be closer to the 4x per year to keep it green. With centipede it really is a color issue. What was the reason for the kill in southwest AL?
@@GregPhillips.22 I am in southeast Alabama. Around Christmas time, it got down in the teens here. That is tough on centipede. And then February it got unseasonably warm. Centipede came out of dormancy. And then lo and behold winter returned with a vengeance after it had greened up. We had heavy frost 3 nights in a row, and it severely damaged most all of the centipede in this area. It was tough on it.
Any place where they tell you the percentage of fast release and slow release on the fertilizers, specifically on synthetic fertilizers? Also, coming from the Concrete business, be VERY cautious with putting any fertilizers on concrete especially in cold weather states. The chemical reaction will peel the top off the concrete off, even faster than ice melt will.
Also, what do you think about the Sta Green Natural that is a 16-0-10?
On the back of a fertilizer bag you will see WIN/water insoluble nitrogen or you will see polymer sulphur coated urea or polymer coated urea. Usually it's water insoluble nitrogen. Anyway those are given on a % basis so like your 16-0-10. You will see 8% WIN so that means 1/2 of the nitrogen is slow release. It's a percentage of the percentage. /so if it said 16% WIN that means all the nitrogen in the bag is slow release.
As far as stay green products. I am very impressed by what the offer. It's a good low price point name brand.
Thanks for the heads up about the concrete!!!
@@GregPhillips.22 Thanks for the info. I watched another one of your videos after I posted this that touched on this subject. Very informative. Another question, I have watched other youtube videos on fertilization, and they talk about quick release and slow release in liquid forms. I am confused on how a liquid can be slow release since it obviously be coated by anything. Do you have any information on this?
Thanks again.
Great info, thanks. I live in Springfield Ohio. I have 44,356 SqFt of lawn (Fescue) What would you recommend for fall application?
You have time to take a soil test so base the amount of phosphorus and potassium on the soil test results.
Depends on the condition of your grass. If it is a little on the thin side from summer. Go with agricultural grad fertilizer around Labor Day. Then first of November put down another application of nitrogen fertilizer at 1 lb/1000 ft2.
If you made it through summer and you are happy with it. Put a organic fertilizer on just after Labor Day. And again just after Halloween. 1 lb of N each time. Putting the phosphorus and potassium application down in that first September feed..
So what’s a good summer fert for St Aug and what’s a good fert to close out the year?
Close out the year for warm season grasses is a high potassium application. For warm season grasses I always recommend doing a soil test in august, check pH an potassium levels. Particularly for an acidic soil put your lime and get potassium into the soil at least 8 weeks before dormancy. That will give you all winter adjusting pH and help with winter hardiness.
Spring green up apply nitrogen. At Augustine needs 2 to 4 lbs per year. See my slow release fertilizer video. Ideal is use a polymer coated and water soluble fertilizers for the year. Apply a water insoluble (ag grade) at 1 lb/1000 at green up. To get things going. Then in mid may put down 2lbs/1000 polymer coated. That will feed you most of the summer. In August evaluate your color, coverage. Put another 1 to 1/2 lb down. Then the cycle starts again. That wound hold true for Bermuda too.
For a urea foliar spray for spoon feeding Bermuda can I put down more than 0.20 ponds per thousand or can I put down more due to volitization?
I am always careful about liquid fertilizers..stick with the label particularly with nitrogen fertilizers. Will say working on a video "which is better" granular or liquid fertilizers..I am finding both used together gives best results.
When it says 1 or 2 pounds per 1000 sq. ft. what does that mean? It's the number on the spreader that matters.
1 to 2 lbs usually is the amount of the particular nutrient you are putting out per 1000 ft2. The amount of the fertilizer you would put out to achieve that amount of the nutrient..hope that answers your question..
What about compost tea ?
Will say, most of the university studies on coffee grinds, compost tea and many of the "hacks"/non traditional things you see online really don't make much of a difference.