What an awesome video. Tito you are the man! At one point in my life I was a motion picture and Television cameraman so I feel qualified to say that the content, presentation, and ease of understanding of your videos are top notch. You never presuppose your audience knows what you are talking about. I bet you could even make calculus understandable. Many thanks and keep them coming!
That really means a lot coming from a pro. I really appreciate it. But thankfully, I've forgotten any and all calculus I learned in college :) Thanks for the comment. You made my day.
I don’t own a travel trailer….yet. But this video is saved for when I do and ready to outfit it with solar. This is the best solution I’ve seen so far.
Thank you for this “how to” video. I just installed a 9:1 antenna on our adventure van roof and had to route the 1” bundle of cables to the inside. This was a big help and I feel the project turned out “professional” with your demonstration and explanation. I am confident we have a water tight entry point. I must admit the most difficult part, (mentally), was drilling the hole. Thanks again
First of all Brian, I want to thank you for the time that you spend on producing your videos. The main thing that I appreciate is the fact that you are producing videos with real substance and valuable information. You are not just pumping out videos as a subscriber factory. I do have a question in regards to the flexible solar panels. Many have reported dependability issues such as " I'm not lost, I'm Rving" where it appears that all of his panels have failed him. I really want to go with flex panel but concerned with the dependability. It appears that you are having better luck with your flex panels. I would appreciate your current thoughts and observations.
Hehe...Subscriber factory. I get what you mean. That's very thoughtful feedback. I really appreciate it. I do subscribe to those guys too and watched that video this morning. It bums me out that they are having trouble. It seems extremely unusual to have so many panels fail at once. I certainly sense his frustration and am eager to see what comes of it. I have three HQST panels installed and they still perform well for me. I regularly test them. I have broken one before by bending it too far. Proper care and handling during and after installation is important though since they are thin and more fragile than people think. The cells can break if you bend the panel too far or step on them a lot. You shouldn't really walk on them. I avoid walking on them once installed unless I really have to. When I have to, I step on them gently. Finally, I don't camp or live in extremely hot areas, but I have heard from others who have had these panels installed for several years and continue to have great results and zero failures. They have used them while crossing the country repeatedly and have been in very cold and hot temps. With all of that said, I do have a couple of spares just in case :) Suaoki (the brand of flex panels they have) has actually reached out to me repeatedly to do reviews, but I've declined not because of their products, but because I do not believe a review of their flex panel would add any new information for my audience. I do have a couple of Suoaki panels (50W) that I used for my portable window awning solar setup and they are great panels. I'm still a fan of the flex panels for the reasons I've shared in previous videos. Traditional panels are not immune to problems either and I have some of those too. Lots of folks talk about longevity and warrantees. That's great if it helps sell you panels, but I believe that it is unrealistic to count on a 10 - 15 year warrantee for RV or van mounted solar. Chances are, during that time, the manufacturer will be gone anyway, you'll sell or upgrade your RV, or you will upgrade to newer tech. The bottom line is that solar is still coming down in price and everyone is looking for the best deal for their buck. This means you're probably going to buy panels mass produced in China. Even the solar companies in the US or Canada are most likely sourcing materials and components from China. China has invested so much in the production of these and we just can't beat the price. Most folks are watching their money and will most likely opt for the Chinese brand instead paying 2 to 3 times more to buy from a manufacturer perceived to have a higher quality product and long term support. For these reasons I treat these panels as disposable items. I test them when they arrive and send them back immediately if there's a problem. I'll plan to replace them if/when they go bad or if something much better comes along. After all, I love to make videos about new tech so I'll get my hands on the new stuff and share it with you. A bit wordy, but those are my thoughts. I hope it helps John.
Brian - I've watched this video several times and appreciate the attention to details like you always do. Getting ready to do this on my RV and I like your approach.
Your bravery - to cut holes into your RV - is admirable. Your skills are top shelf. Your video shows others that with planning, the end results are the best one could want. Thank you for sharing with us.
Thanks! Careful planning is definitely the key to a successful outcome. That location was not part of my original plan, but it ended up to be the best option once I thought about it more and dug around the roof vents and walls.
Thanks for the video. I am picking up a small used trailer tomorrow. Goal is for occasional camping and converting it into a Mobile Ham Radio Shack. I will need to install an antenna connector on the outside wall then run a short cable into the trailer. Simple tip like removing the microwave and how you cut the inner wall inside the trailer will be a big help.
Thank you. A perfectly prepared, straight-forward , no fuss how-to-video. Doing the same job at the moment in a Pajero roof, and this video has given me the answer to some "oh my god what have I done drilling a hole in my roof". Thank you
Great how to video. I always recommend the refrigerator vent if their RV allows it but there are so many different RVs that's not always possible. This type of wire run is the way to go when an access point can't be found or is too far away. Nice job as always.
Yes. The refrigerator vent is a popular way to go. My RV does not have a refrigerator roof vent. It's on the side and the refrigerator is in a slide out. Thanks!!
😀 Good stuff! Going to be doing some roof wiring soon for a project and will use this method. We will definitely give you credit and reference your video in our video. 👍🏼 Thanks!
That's very clever how you ran the conduit down. And the box. I install a lot of communications equipment in RVs and the challenges installing antennas up on the roof that gives me an idea how to run the coax
What a great topic, Brian, and an excellent overview of the process. We understand that drilling holes through the roof isn't within everyone's comfort zone, and it's not to be done without a good reason. But it's also nothing to fear. So many people think that a hole in the roof is a sure path to a leak, but of course theres are tons of places that the manufacturers have brought cables, vents, fans, skylights etc. The the key is to seal properly and inspect periodically. We love the tip about attaching your borescope to the wiring to see your way around... although it did look a bit like you were giving your RV an endoscopy. Maybe a way to better RV health? 😁
I am really impressed with the practically in your work.. well except for the spaghetti wires on the roof.. . Loved your roof "penetration"... But I thought was unnecessary all the time until I saw thaw that you made the choice to have your refrigerator on your slide out when you bought your unit.... I have retired from the Boating industry and now by necessity work as an RV tech.. all day every day.. .... RV's are like cheap boats... But occasionally I get to work on some nice units.. OR make the ones I get to work on.. Nice.. way better than factory normally... I will be following and watching some of your old video.s.. Nice work..
Great vid, Brian. I am.getting ready to install a Winegard Rayzat on my Thor Siesta. Initially, I was going to reuse the coaxial there and do a swap. After watching the video, I am heading to Home Depot to get the right parts and do it correctly with some longer-term.flexibily. Thanks again.
Again thanks Brian for putting all of this together. I know your helping numerous people with projects. Going to send an email question as it has some specifics to it. Great job on channel!!
Good work! One suggestion. On the roof, where the cable and flex-tube goes into the junction box? It looks unfinished with the cable exposed, and creates a potential leak. They sell water-tight connectors that go into the junction box side, and the flex-tube fits tightly into the water-tight connector. Lowe’s and Home Depot sell them.
The cable glands I used do have a compression water tight seal which do keep the water out. But the flex tube (3 sizes) I have doesn't fit over it snugly. I'll go check out those connectors. Thanks for the tip!
Just found this video. A couple suggestions for the future - do your roof penetrations like boaters and after you drill your hole, scrape back the foam between the inner and outer skins to create a recess, then fill the recess with some thickened epoxy. That way, you will never have water infiltrating your roof. For your piece of plastic conduit through the roof, make sure you secure it so it doesn't move up or down. Pretty easy to use some glass reinforcement and epoxy that to the roof surface as well. Doing that will also help ensure you never have a leak, even if the sealant fails. Last, make sure all your wiring races are cut big enough with soft edges so your wires won't chafe through.
Hi Brian, As an electrician and electrical contractor with 30 years of experience, I would suggest drilling a hole in the water proof box at the lowest point possible (lower than the top of the conduit going through the roof) because water proof seals are (with time) not always water proof. The hole will allow the water an exit out of the box, (other then down the down pipe) and save water going down that down pipe!
This is a nice, clean installation. When running cables that break from the outside to the interior or when running cables into electric boxes, I usually will try to bend the cable into a u-shape right before entering a surface with it. This has the advantage that if water runs from the top of the cable towards, for instance, a box or a wall that water will encounter the u-shape in the cable. Water will then ever so slightly collect in the bottom part of the u-shaped cable, and due to gravity it will fall on its own from the cable. This reduces quite a bit the possibility of water running in through the cables themselves. I realize it is more difficult to do this on a roof, but if you think about it is possible, and the results are worth the effort.
Haha. oooo or uuuhh. "Uuuuh" sounds like Spicoli from Fast Times "Uuuuhh Bro.." English sure is crazy sometimes. How about the word "look"? Should it be pronounced "luke"?
Very similar to what I did on our airstream for solar cables - I wanted to keep the option open to run wires for a backup camera (or who knows what) in the future. Airstream roofs are a single layer of aluminum so I used a larger (1"?) gland (which has a gasket and nut to seal it) to get through the roof - the cables are much smaller than the gland so it wouldn't keep the rain out by itself. So then I cut a hole in the bottom of a handy box like you did and sealed it to the roof with caulk. Water would have to leak past both the box seal and the gland seal to leak in. However - I know from experience that handy box lids can leak. So I drilled weep holes in the downhill side of the box to let any moisture that gets in have a way out. That works on a sloped airstream roof - maybe not on other RVs. You have to really think about what is going to be the best solution in your particular situation. I don't see how you can have an RV if you aren't at least a little bit handy.
Great video, I am researching everything right now so I'm watching a lot of video's. I'm planning on buying a small rv to live in , needless to say it will most likely need repairs and I'm a diy'er. So i'm educating myself on all types of repairs and products. Thanks for your very well done video!
Excellent video, sorted out my questions of how to best fit what will be a temporary access route into my camper (and a good waterproof box to house it) for my Poynting MIMO-3-V2-15 mobile, WiFi, gps antenna which has captive cables to 4 plugs, down to my Router, with a large enough hole to provide means to easily take it all out, after the trip, for use in other vehicles. Thanks hugely
As a former employee of a telecommunications company, we NEVER drilled holes in roofs. At best, we asked customers to install weather proof conduits through the roof.
Great informative video mate. I have just replaced my RV roof and decided to go this way for my solar panel wires, tv antenna and auto sat dish (8 in total). All sealed and parts are all IP68 waterproof (hose proof). The seal was so good it actually generated more water by condensation than would ever get into the box via a heavy rain downpour. The only way out that I can see is to place a small drain tube at the lowest rear corner of the box and hope it drains before it flows up and over the lip of the 40mm pvc pipe that runs down inside. Have you had a look inside your install recently? I would suggest anyone with this setup keep an eye on it.
Excellent video. Thank you for posting it. I am planning on running some wiring for solar and for our cell booster through the roof, the junction box idea is perfect.
Nice job, I couldn't do it. I really wanted to drill my roof for my 4G antenna wiring into a smaller cabinet. I ended up going through the satellite cable entry point into another cabinet. I used one of the solar cable entry plates you showed. It works but I'm in a much larger cabinet than I need.
Great video, as always. Looks like I'll need to add a USB Borescope Inspection Camera to my arsenal of tools. I can't tell you how many times I was frustrated trying to fish a wire with no success. Now I'll have a chance!
Thanks! It has definitely come it very handy for that. I was able to use it to poke around the vents and openings to find the best path. Pretty cheap too.
You give really good information and detail on some things and leave out huge details in other things. Such as, are the cables underneath just flopping in the breeze? How are they fastened and made waterproof/animal/insect proof? It's ever bit as important as the roof aspect.
nice install. I really need to get a boroscope. They are so inexpensive now. Too many years of blinding trying to fish wires and cables. Love those PG9 connectors also. Good job Brian!
Thanks. Just watched some of your videos. Great work! Brings me back to my days (14 yrs) in a cover band. Let me know if you ever need a vocal track. Looks like you've got the rest covered :)
You have some cojones.... I am afraid to drill any holes in my coach. It helps when you have the right tools too. Been thinking on mounting the Winegard Rayzar Automatic digital antenna and drilling into the roof got me on hold just because I am afraid. Great video as always.
What helps is really thinking things through before you drill that hole. Make sure you're in the right spot first and start with a very small drill bit, just in case.
Brian, I checked with the Eternabond company recently. They don't suggest using the double stick eternabond to mount anything to the roof. It's fine to prevent water intrusion but they don't recommend as a method to fix an object to the roof. They suggest screws.
I've found that it has many uses and works great for small stuff like this. It can soften under high heat though. I primarly used it to prevent water intrusion along with the Dicor. Together with the Dicor, the box is on there solid.
Roooooof not not ruf 😋 this video gave me an idea of what I want to do. I have a pop-up so you can't just drill through the plastic on top then run the wires to the side panels because the whole roof has the insulated boards. On that note, what I think I might do is just throw the whole right underneath where the wires come out of the panel go straight through the entire roof then just run some of that small conduit from the opening to the edge of the camper for the wires are already are already set up and ready to go. I've just been waiting for the mounting brackets for my solar panel
RVwithTito not ganna lie every time I was like NO! Haha maybe it's a location thing I'm originally from Tampa Florida so for example when we ask for soda we literally just say can we have a Coke and I'll ask you what kind do you want instead of just assuming you want an actual Coke, now I live in North Dakota and they all call it pop and say bag "beg"
thanks very helpful ideas for doing this kind of installation, not many others going into this part in any detail. im planning A solar install and putting it all up on the roof and looking for ideas, really like your solutions.
Hello. Brian....i really enjoy watching your videos. Are you a technician ? You gave great ideas & complete the jobs easy. I am a kinda backyard guy. I am able to do most jobs but not a master. First of all i do not know or understand solar or electricity. You do alot of upgrades to your RV. I plan to buy a class rv soon. I hope to do the same upgrades to my rv as you have done to yours. Great job guy. Keep up the great work.
So far.....battery monitor installed....inverter installed with auto transfer switch to power my non GFI outlets.......next step install solar....drilling into my roof is my biggest challenge so far. I think I have a spot above my kitchen area. The MH has a deep narrow cabinet that is so deep I can barely reach the rear of it. I plan on installing the box you suggested first. Once that is in I am home free :) I am leaning on using VHB tape to secure the panel brackets to the roof rather than drilling. So far I have not found anything that suggests it is a bad idea. Was curious if you had any opinions on it? As others have mentioned......thank you for putting these videos out....they help us understand our RV's and allow us to tackle these great upgrades!
I assume you're installing traditional solar panels since you mention brackets. I think the VHB tape is definitely worth a try. If you also cover the brackets with Dicor, they should be pretty secure. My only concern would be the wind pulling them upward. That could lead to some delamination of the roof membrane where the brackets are. That's all I can think of though. Give it a try. Worst case, you'll have to put in a couple of self tapping screws on the front brackets. Good luck!
This was the best video I've seen yet. What I don't understand is drilling through the pass through into the underbelly and out. Do you just get an enormously long drill bit??
I appreciate the video. It gave me the confidence to install the junction box at the top of the RV. It'd be nice to see some of these products on an Amazon store. I like some of the items you have on kit.co, but it'd be easier for me to get some of these products directly from Amazon. You've put a but of work into these videos and the least I can do is if I use some products. I'm wiring the system slightly different. I'm running two sets of parallel panels through the roof and combining them in the battery compartment, and by moving the combiner 10' closer to the battery I was surprised at how much less DC loss there is. I think I went from a 15' length for converter and battery to a 2' length converter and battery. I ended up putting the wire in a 1" wide PVC conduit, which will leave room for expansion whether that be another string of solar panels or adding wiring for a satellite dish.
@@skic3151 Oh. Right. I don't have inverters on there. I have links to the Samlex here www.rvwithtito.com/articles/our-solar/ where you can see our entire system.
Would love to see a video of how to run cables into RV without drilling any holes as well, possibly running it through a door opening and taping it down with the eternabond along the side or back of the rig
Brilliant video. I just how did you seal the floor after threading the cables through the floor. Sorry I am just the beginner and was thinking of doing the same. Thank You
What an awesome video. Tito you are the man! At one point in my life I was a motion picture and Television cameraman so I feel qualified to say that the content, presentation, and ease of understanding of your videos are top notch. You never presuppose your audience knows what you are talking about. I bet you could even make calculus understandable. Many thanks and keep them coming!
That really means a lot coming from a pro. I really appreciate it. But thankfully, I've forgotten any and all calculus I learned in college :) Thanks for the comment. You made my day.
I don’t own a travel trailer….yet. But this video is saved for when I do and ready to outfit it with solar. This is the best solution I’ve seen so far.
Great. Thanks. I used it several times now. Works great.👍
This is the go-to-guy when i want things done properly
Thank you for this “how to” video. I just installed a 9:1 antenna on our adventure van roof and had to route the 1” bundle of cables to the inside. This was a big help and I feel the project turned out “professional” with your demonstration and explanation. I am confident we have a water tight entry point. I must admit the most difficult part, (mentally), was drilling the hole. Thanks again
Nice job!
Make sure you check where your tanks are under your rv before drilling through the bottom. Great video. Thanks
Excellent and thank you!!! Finally a video with details of how to penetrate through the roof.
Glad it was helpful!
You do some of the best diy videos out there. I can't help but wonder why some even try.
First of all Brian, I want to thank you for the time that you spend on producing your videos. The main thing that I appreciate is the fact that you are producing videos with real substance and valuable information. You are not just pumping out videos as a subscriber factory. I do have a question in regards to the flexible solar panels. Many have reported dependability issues such as " I'm not lost, I'm Rving" where it appears that all of his panels have failed him. I really want to go with flex panel but concerned with the dependability. It appears that you are having better luck with your flex panels. I would appreciate your current thoughts and observations.
Hehe...Subscriber factory. I get what you mean. That's very thoughtful feedback. I really appreciate it. I do subscribe to those guys too and watched that video this morning. It bums me out that they are having trouble. It seems extremely unusual to have so many panels fail at once. I certainly sense his frustration and am eager to see what comes of it.
I have three HQST panels installed and they still perform well for me. I regularly test them. I have broken one before by bending it too far. Proper care and handling during and after installation is important though since they are thin and more fragile than people think. The cells can break if you bend the panel too far or step on them a lot. You shouldn't really walk on them. I avoid walking on them once installed unless I really have to. When I have to, I step on them gently. Finally, I don't camp or live in extremely hot areas, but I have heard from others who have had these panels installed for several years and continue to have great results and zero failures. They have used them while crossing the country repeatedly and have been in very cold and hot temps. With all of that said, I do have a couple of spares just in case :)
Suaoki (the brand of flex panels they have) has actually reached out to me repeatedly to do reviews, but I've declined not because of their products, but because I do not believe a review of their flex panel would add any new information for my audience. I do have a couple of Suoaki panels (50W) that I used for my portable window awning solar setup and they are great panels. I'm still a fan of the flex panels for the reasons I've shared in previous videos. Traditional panels are not immune to problems either and I have some of those too.
Lots of folks talk about longevity and warrantees. That's great if it helps sell you panels, but I believe that it is unrealistic to count on a 10 - 15 year warrantee for RV or van mounted solar. Chances are, during that time, the manufacturer will be gone anyway, you'll sell or upgrade your RV, or you will upgrade to newer tech.
The bottom line is that solar is still coming down in price and everyone is looking for the best deal for their buck. This means you're probably going to buy panels mass produced in China. Even the solar companies in the US or Canada are most likely sourcing materials and components from China. China has invested so much in the production of these and we just can't beat the price. Most folks are watching their money and will most likely opt for the Chinese brand instead paying 2 to 3 times more to buy from a manufacturer perceived to have a higher quality product and long term support.
For these reasons I treat these panels as disposable items. I test them when they arrive and send them back immediately if there's a problem. I'll plan to replace them if/when they go bad or if something much better comes along. After all, I love to make videos about new tech so I'll get my hands on the new stuff and share it with you.
A bit wordy, but those are my thoughts. I hope it helps John.
RVwithTito great informative reply. Thank you for the response. Keep up the great work and thanks again for all your hard work.
I watched his video and have the same reservations. Heat buildup under the panels would also be something I can see being a potential problem.
@@RVwithTito Great info! Thanks for your time.
Beautiful. You've given me the confidence to drill into my late model fibreglass high roofed Renault-Master van. Thank you!
Good luck. Yeah. This setup has served me well.
Brian - I've watched this video several times and appreciate the attention to details like you always do. Getting ready to do this on my RV and I like your approach.
It's worked well. I'd do it again.
Very smart cookie. As a 30 year vehicle upfitter this is exactly how I would do it. Two thumbs up for this informative video.
Your bravery - to cut holes into your RV - is admirable. Your skills are top shelf. Your video shows others that with planning, the end results are the best one could want. Thank you for sharing with us.
Thanks! Careful planning is definitely the key to a successful outcome. That location was not part of my original plan, but it ended up to be the best option once I thought about it more and dug around the roof vents and walls.
Great video. I like the way you overcame the obstacles.
Helps me quite a lot. Installing a Dish Playmaker on my RV. Thanks
Glad to help
Thanks for leaving the light on; now I can see clearly how to plan out my next project.
Thanks for the video. I am picking up a small used trailer tomorrow. Goal is for occasional camping and converting it into a Mobile Ham Radio Shack. I will need to install an antenna connector on the outside wall then run a short cable into the trailer. Simple tip like removing the microwave and how you cut the inner wall inside the trailer will be a big help.
Exactly the info I was looking for. Reworking some of my solar wiring before our summer trip. Thanks Brian.
Glad it helped Norm. I'm always reworking something :) Upgrading a couple solar panels today. Luckily no change in wiring.
Thank you. A perfectly prepared, straight-forward , no fuss how-to-video. Doing the same job at the moment in a Pajero roof, and this video has given me the answer to some "oh my god what have I done drilling a hole in my roof". Thank you
Thank you Brian, I followed your instructions and everything worked out perfectly. I appreciate your videos, they are well done.
Great job! Glad to hear it. 👍
Great how to video. I always recommend the refrigerator vent if their RV allows it but there are so many different RVs that's not always possible. This type of wire run is the way to go when an access point can't be found or is too far away. Nice job as always.
Yes. The refrigerator vent is a popular way to go. My RV does not have a refrigerator roof vent. It's on the side and the refrigerator is in a slide out. Thanks!!
Nice one! You really "pulled" that one off!!
😀 Good stuff! Going to be doing some roof wiring soon for a project and will use this method. We will definitely give you credit and reference your video in our video. 👍🏼 Thanks!
Sounds great!
That's very clever how you ran the conduit down. And the box. I install a lot of communications equipment in RVs and the challenges installing antennas up on the roof that gives me an idea how to run the coax
Glad you like it. I'll do this on all rigs from this point forward...unless they have fridge vent access.
What a great topic, Brian, and an excellent overview of the process. We understand that drilling holes through the roof isn't within everyone's comfort zone, and it's not to be done without a good reason. But it's also nothing to fear. So many people think that a hole in the roof is a sure path to a leak, but of course theres are tons of places that the manufacturers have brought cables, vents, fans, skylights etc. The the key is to seal properly and inspect periodically. We love the tip about attaching your borescope to the wiring to see your way around... although it did look a bit like you were giving your RV an endoscopy. Maybe a way to better RV health? 😁
Very nice job, I really like this idea. One hole will do many different device wires or cables. Excellent, thank you.
Thanks. It's been great. I've replicated this approach several times by now.
Great idea! I think I'll adopt this technique for routing my LED lights on the roof of my Toyota Tundra camper top.
Should work great.
Triple thumbs up for great ideas, different approach than so many, some cool tools, and a great instructional video!!
That's a lot of thumbs. Glad you liked it.
I am really impressed with the practically in your work.. well except for the spaghetti wires on the roof.. . Loved your roof "penetration"... But I thought was unnecessary all the time until I saw thaw that you made the choice to have your refrigerator on your slide out when you bought your unit.... I have retired from the Boating industry and now by necessity work as an RV tech.. all day every day.. .... RV's are like cheap boats... But occasionally I get to work on some nice units.. OR make the ones I get to work on.. Nice.. way better than factory normally... I will be following and watching some of your old video.s.. Nice work..
Excellent video! Thank you for taking the time to share your project.
Hey no problem. Running cable is always tricky.
KIng of video makers!! so much help and straight forward. Thanks.
Brian, you put out great instructional videos. Thanks
Great vid, Brian. I am.getting ready to install a Winegard Rayzat on my Thor Siesta. Initially, I was going to reuse the coaxial there and do a swap. After watching the video, I am heading to Home Depot to get the right parts and do it correctly with some longer-term.flexibily. Thanks again.
Thank you Brian , love this tech tip. I will follow your lead on this method. The camera is brilliant
Glad it was helpful!
Again thanks Brian for putting all of this together. I know your helping numerous people with projects. Going to send an email question as it has some specifics to it. Great job on channel!!
Thanks for making this!
You bet. 👍
Good work! One suggestion. On the roof, where the cable and flex-tube goes into the junction box? It looks unfinished with the cable exposed, and creates a potential leak. They sell water-tight connectors that go into the junction box side, and the flex-tube fits tightly into the water-tight connector. Lowe’s and Home Depot sell them.
The cable glands I used do have a compression water tight seal which do keep the water out. But the flex tube (3 sizes) I have doesn't fit over it snugly. I'll go check out those connectors. Thanks for the tip!
Just found this video. A couple suggestions for the future - do your roof penetrations like boaters and after you drill your hole, scrape back the foam between the inner and outer skins to create a recess, then fill the recess with some thickened epoxy. That way, you will never have water infiltrating your roof. For your piece of plastic conduit through the roof, make sure you secure it so it doesn't move up or down. Pretty easy to use some glass reinforcement and epoxy that to the roof surface as well. Doing that will also help ensure you never have a leak, even if the sealant fails. Last, make sure all your wiring races are cut big enough with soft edges so your wires won't chafe through.
Thank you. I had to bookmark this one so I can go back to it later. Good job!
Very nice. I would suggest gluing a bushing on the conduit for cable entry and exit. Nice job. Very clean.
Nice video Brian. Makes me want to start cutting some holes.
Hi Brian, As an electrician and electrical contractor with 30 years of experience, I would suggest drilling a hole in the water proof box at the lowest point possible (lower than the top of the conduit going through the roof) because water proof seals are (with time) not always water proof. The hole will allow the water an exit out of the box, (other then down the down pipe) and save water going down that down pipe!
I've considered that too. Thanks for the suggestion. I'll go ahead and do it. 👍
You might want to glue a screen to the hole so that bugs do not enter.
I believe this is the best method I have ever seen to run wires into your RV. I love it. Thanks!
What can I say...I agree! :)
Great video, nice work. I find you to be one of the best RUclips RV channels out there. Look forward to your next video.
Gonna frame this comment! I'm very glad you've enjoyed what I've shared. I'll keep it comin :)
Another great video! Most usable video producer as far as I am concerned!
Awesome! Thanks.
This is a nice, clean installation.
When running cables that break from the outside to the interior or when running cables into electric boxes, I usually will try to bend the cable into a u-shape right before entering a surface with it. This has the advantage that if water runs from the top of the cable towards, for instance, a box or a wall that water will encounter the u-shape in the cable.
Water will then ever so slightly collect in the bottom part of the u-shaped cable, and due to gravity it will fall on its own from the cable. This reduces quite a bit the possibility of water running in through the cables themselves.
I realize it is more difficult to do this on a roof, but if you think about it is possible, and the results are worth the effort.
Yes. That drip loop is pretty common practice for electrical wiring on boats. Thanks for the suggestion.
Great tip!
Thanks Brian for another great video.
Woof or roof, ur English is funny for Brit speakers. Cheers
Haha. oooo or uuuhh. "Uuuuh" sounds like Spicoli from Fast Times "Uuuuhh Bro.." English sure is crazy sometimes. How about the word "look"? Should it be pronounced "luke"?
This was extremely informative. Thank you.
Very
Very
Helpful and coherent DIY information
THX
Very similar to what I did on our airstream for solar cables - I wanted to keep the option open to run wires for a backup camera (or who knows what) in the future. Airstream roofs are a single layer of aluminum so I used a larger (1"?) gland (which has a gasket and nut to seal it) to get through the roof - the cables are much smaller than the gland so it wouldn't keep the rain out by itself. So then I cut a hole in the bottom of a handy box like you did and sealed it to the roof with caulk. Water would have to leak past both the box seal and the gland seal to leak in. However - I know from experience that handy box lids can leak. So I drilled weep holes in the downhill side of the box to let any moisture that gets in have a way out. That works on a sloped airstream roof - maybe not on other RVs.
You have to really think about what is going to be the best solution in your particular situation. I don't see how you can have an RV if you aren't at least a little bit handy.
Nice job! Yes. Weep holes are a good idea. I agree completely with your last comment. So true.
Great stuff. My favorite channel.
Great video, you must be a Professor or teacher professional in real life. I like the detail and step by step instruction. Thanks for posting.
Great video, I am researching everything right now so I'm watching a lot of video's. I'm planning on buying a small rv to live in , needless to say it will most likely need repairs and I'm a diy'er. So i'm educating myself on all types of repairs and products. Thanks for your very well done video!
Excellent video, sorted out my questions of how to best fit what will be a temporary access route into my camper (and a good waterproof box to house it) for my Poynting MIMO-3-V2-15 mobile, WiFi, gps antenna which has captive cables to 4 plugs, down to my Router, with a large enough hole to provide means to easily take it all out, after the trip, for use in other vehicles. Thanks hugely
Glad to help! Good luck with the project.
Just found this video. Thanks so much! This helped me as I’m struggling with finding the path from the roof into the batteries.
Excellent. Glad it helped!
I just ordered a boroscope from Amazon. Thanks Brito!! That's your new name by the way :)
Love it! Brito it is 😃
raybbj I see what you did there
Very cool, you give me the courage to try this myself.
I've followed quite a few channels related to RV etc and I have just come across yours. Really appreciate what you're doing.Thank you.
Hi there! I appreciate the feedback and am glad you found my channel. Welcome aboard.
As a former employee of a telecommunications company, we NEVER drilled holes in roofs. At best, we asked customers to install weather proof conduits through the roof.
Great informative video mate. I have just replaced my RV roof and decided to go this way for my solar panel wires, tv antenna and auto sat dish (8 in total). All sealed and parts are all IP68 waterproof (hose proof). The seal was so good it actually generated more water by condensation than would ever get into the box via a heavy rain downpour. The only way out that I can see is to place a small drain tube at the lowest rear corner of the box and hope it drains before it flows up and over the lip of the 40mm pvc pipe that runs down inside. Have you had a look inside your install recently? I would suggest anyone with this setup keep an eye on it.
Excellent video. Thank you for posting it. I am planning on running some wiring for solar and for our cell booster through the roof, the junction box idea is perfect.
Nice job, I couldn't do it. I really wanted to drill my roof for my 4G antenna wiring into a smaller cabinet. I ended up going through the satellite cable entry point into another cabinet. I used one of the solar cable entry plates you showed. It works but I'm in a much larger cabinet than I need.
I've gone throught the TV antenna hole in the past as well. I had to enlarge it a bit though then re-seal it.
Outstanding creativity demonstrated here, thanks for the tips
Thanks for another great DIY video!
Just what I was looking for! :D yes... great idea! thanks!
Great video, as always. Looks like I'll need to add a USB Borescope Inspection Camera to my arsenal of tools. I can't tell you how many times I was frustrated trying to fish a wire with no success. Now I'll have a chance!
Thanks! It has definitely come it very handy for that. I was able to use it to poke around the vents and openings to find the best path. Pretty cheap too.
This was not what I was looking for but it was very good except for now I forgot what I was actually looking for haha
Doh! 😂
Awesome! Thank you for sharing.
My pleasure!
You give really good information and detail on some things and leave out huge details in other things. Such as, are the cables underneath just flopping in the breeze? How are they fastened and made waterproof/animal/insect proof? It's ever bit as important as the roof aspect.
Another great video Brian!
Thanks Jim. Glad you enjoyed it.
excellent guide, thankyou!
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you, very professional job. Keep them coming.
This is a great video! Thank you for sharing with us.
Really love you channel.
Thanks! Welcome.
nice install. I really need to get a boroscope. They are so inexpensive now. Too many years of blinding trying to fish wires and cables. Love those PG9 connectors also. Good job Brian!
Thanks. Just watched some of your videos. Great work! Brings me back to my days (14 yrs) in a cover band. Let me know if you ever need a vocal track. Looks like you've got the rest covered :)
Thanks for checking out my channel Brian. I might just take you up on your offer one day!
You have some cojones.... I am afraid to drill any holes in my coach. It helps when you have the right tools too. Been thinking on mounting the Winegard Rayzar Automatic digital antenna and drilling into the roof got me on hold just because I am afraid. Great video as always.
What helps is really thinking things through before you drill that hole. Make sure you're in the right spot first and start with a very small drill bit, just in case.
Brian, I checked with the Eternabond company recently. They don't suggest using the
double stick eternabond to mount anything to the roof. It's fine to prevent water intrusion
but they don't recommend as a method to fix an object to the roof. They suggest screws.
I've found that it has many uses and works great for small stuff like this. It can soften under high heat though. I primarly used it to prevent water intrusion along with the Dicor. Together with the Dicor, the box is on there solid.
Great ideas, great video. Thank you Brian!
Roooooof not not ruf 😋 this video gave me an idea of what I want to do. I have a pop-up so you can't just drill through the plastic on top then run the wires to the side panels because the whole roof has the insulated boards. On that note, what I think I might do is just throw the whole right underneath where the wires come out of the panel go straight through the entire roof then just run some of that small conduit from the opening to the edge of the camper for the wires are already are already set up and ready to go. I've just been waiting for the mounting brackets for my solar panel
Haha. It must have been rough listening to me say ruf over and over again :) Glad you got an idea from the video. Good luck!
RVwithTito not ganna lie every time I was like NO! Haha maybe it's a location thing I'm originally from Tampa Florida so for example when we ask for soda we literally just say can we have a Coke and I'll ask you what kind do you want instead of just assuming you want an actual Coke, now I live in North Dakota and they all call it pop and say bag "beg"
Hole, not whole. 😂
Epic Mini Life haha "smart" phone and no proof reading. The Perfect Storm
Nice vid Tito! Thanks.
Nice work again : grtz from Belgium !
thanks very helpful ideas for doing this kind of installation, not many others going into this part in any detail. im planning A solar install and putting it all up on the roof and looking for ideas, really like your solutions.
Absolute perfection.
Hello. Brian....i really enjoy watching your videos. Are you a technician ? You gave great ideas & complete the jobs easy. I am a kinda backyard guy. I am able to do most jobs but not a master. First of all i do not know or understand solar or electricity.
You do alot of upgrades to your RV.
I plan to buy a class rv soon. I hope to do the same upgrades to my rv as you have done to yours.
Great job guy. Keep up the great work.
Very clean. I like it
Great video bud
Thanks 👍
So far.....battery monitor installed....inverter installed with auto transfer switch to power my non GFI outlets.......next step install solar....drilling into my roof is my biggest challenge so far. I think I have a spot above my kitchen area. The MH has a deep narrow cabinet that is so deep I can barely reach the rear of it. I plan on installing the box you suggested first. Once that is in I am home free :) I am leaning on using VHB tape to secure the panel brackets to the roof rather than drilling. So far I have not found anything that suggests it is a bad idea. Was curious if you had any opinions on it? As others have mentioned......thank you for putting these videos out....they help us understand our RV's and allow us to tackle these great upgrades!
I assume you're installing traditional solar panels since you mention brackets. I think the VHB tape is definitely worth a try. If you also cover the brackets with Dicor, they should be pretty secure. My only concern would be the wind pulling them upward. That could lead to some delamination of the roof membrane where the brackets are. That's all I can think of though. Give it a try. Worst case, you'll have to put in a couple of self tapping screws on the front brackets. Good luck!
This was the best video I've seen yet. What I don't understand is drilling through the pass through into the underbelly and out. Do you just get an enormously long drill bit??
Not too long for me. You can put the bit on an extension if necessary.
Fantastic thank you very much
You're very welcome!
Thanks great video
Great job!
I appreciate the video. It gave me the confidence to install the junction box at the top of the RV.
It'd be nice to see some of these products on an Amazon store. I like some of the items you have on kit.co, but it'd be easier for me to get some of these products directly from Amazon. You've put a but of work into these videos and the least I can do is if I use some products.
I'm wiring the system slightly different. I'm running two sets of parallel panels through the roof and combining them in the battery compartment, and by moving the combiner 10' closer to the battery I was surprised at how much less DC loss there is. I think I went from a 15' length for converter and battery to a 2' length converter and battery. I ended up putting the wire in a 1" wide PVC conduit, which will leave room for expansion whether that be another string of solar panels or adding wiring for a satellite dish.
The parts I have on Kit.co are linked directly to Amazon. Just click on them 👍
@@RVwithTito I found what I was looking for by clicking in the link from your RUclips video and then went to page 3. Thanks.
@@RVwithTito I could not find any inverters on the Kit.co site. The SAMLEX 1500 or 2000 is what I decided on.
@@skic3151 Oh. Right. I don't have inverters on there. I have links to the Samlex here www.rvwithtito.com/articles/our-solar/ where you can see our entire system.
thanks bro , great video!
Ur a brave man. I think I would have a professional doit.
Would love to see a video of how to run cables into RV without drilling any holes as well, possibly running it through a door opening and taping it down with the eternabond along the side or back of the rig
EXCELLENT - HOW-TO and video.!!!
You, DA MAN!! Great video and great explanation!
Brilliant!!
Brilliant video. I just how did you seal the floor after threading the cables through the floor. Sorry I am just the beginner and was thinking of doing the same. Thank You
There are several ways: Spray foam, construction sealant, or electricians puddy.
Great info thanks
You bet