Also, since some folks have complained that I type too long a comment, I will add more here. For the replies that say this Tail Piece is junk shame on PRS etc. Wraparound bridges have been around since before many of us were born. And the presenter shows a minor flaw that can cause some issues, but a simple almost free fix vs buying a replacement bridge etc. Good tip.
I had a similar problem with a Stoptail and Bridge setup on my 2010 Epiphone LP Std. After awhile, I saw the tailpiece bushings were actually lifting out of the body and the tailpiece leaned toward the bridge. Took it to the Gibson Warranty luthier here in Maryland. Once fixed, I took his explanation on why and how he fixed it like he did. I could still see his method as leaving room for failure and decided to fix it myself. Long story short, The flaw is the method/tools/skill with which the Factory Chinese ":builder" drills the holes. It fails to take into account the scooped contour of the body of a Les Paul to achieve a tight and straight stud installation with the drilling method the factory uses. My fix was a bit tricky, Bottom line is I used hide glue to install 2 hardwood dowel plugs. I drilled the plugs out straight, stopping just shy of bushings diameter. This yields essentially a thin sleeve of wood glued into the former egg shaped old holes. Reinserted the bushings, screwed in the studs and the fix was complete.
Hi there...thanks for posting! I have a 2007 SE Singlecut that had that "chimey" buzz on the first string. I installed a tusq xl nut and set the nut height ....and no difference! I used two washers from a couple of old pots, cut and fitted them and the first thing I noted was that the bridge was firm - it didn't fall out even when the guitar was moved around. After putting on a set of 9-42's...no chimey first string. Intonation is spot on...and I saved $120 by not buying a TonePros....
This is so simple and so fuckin' brilliant at the same time. A far better and more economic advice than buying a TonePros bridge. This will cost only 4-6 cts.
This is helpful, thanks- I was a little worried about my SE Paul’s because when tightening the small Allen bolts I overtightened them, not realizing I was supposed to have stopped- didn’t realize til I strummed and all the strings were way above pitch! I backed them off to where they belonged and only then noticed the posts seem to be leaning slightly forward. I have no way to know if they already were doing that or not, but as long as it holds tune that means nothing’s moving so practically speaking there’s no problem. Thanks.
I know it's expensive, but it was well worth it to upgrade to the John Mann 2300, I had 2009 Mira, it had a very slight sitar sound on the B and high E from the slightly tilted aluminum piece. So I invested in the 2300 wrap tail fully in intonatable, it improved every aspect of the guitar string to string note clarity, full barre chords just amazing , sustain improved, ability to intonate, no more sitar. Slightly richer harmonics. If you can afford it highly recommended.
You can try locking the bridge down. Either use a mini hacksaw and a file to remove the flange from the two bridge posts, converting them into conventional bolts, or source two bolts with the right thread and length. I use stainless steel button head bolts. You can polish the stainless bolt heads by chucking them up in a drill and applying fine wet and dry abrasive sheet. Also source some suitably sized washers that fit the bolts. These and the bolts are available at hardware stores or online. For metric you need M8 bolts and washers. Fit the bolts into the threaded inserts in the guitar with a suitable number of washers underneath the bridge to get it at the right height. Typical washers are just under 1mm thick which means you can adjust action height at the 12th fret in increments of under 1/2 a mm. With the right height set, tighten the bolts down and as long as the threaded inserts aren't loose in the top of the guitar you have removed any bridge tilt and firmly locked the bridge in place. Maximum vibrational integrity is assured and the bridge will no longer fall off when you remove all the strings.
@ yes, the washer is still there, and I think the bridge is definitely tilting forward, but still no sitar buzzing at the bridge. PRS needs to fix this in their production line. The body wood is obviously too soft for the tension of the strings solely coming from the one piece bridge and no tailpiece.
3 года назад
@@bilanggoboy I just bought a SE Singlecut. Really good condition, plays great, but i noticed the bridge is tilted (a little). Its not affecting the sound. Thinking about returning it to the seller just because this issue but at the same time I want to keep the guitar. It plays really good.
@ hi man, my SE is the easiest guitar I have ever played. Action is phenomenal. If your guitar bridge is slanting but you don’t hear any sitar buzzing, then you’re in luck. Make sure it’s strung in the gauge you want it for. A heavier gauge might exhibit the buzzing, so keep it where it’s at =) Good luck! It’s a great guitar man
3 года назад+1
@@bilanggoboy Cool! Love this SEs too.... I really don't want to send it back... Its in mint condition, cherry burst top, really beautiful guitar. Plays great too. Thanks for the tips, really thinking in keeping it!
i have this exact guitar, and a tech broke the bridge. so i gave it to another tech and they replaced the whole stoptail bridge with a new one. graphtech i think. but this was years ago, so i go to play the guitar and the action needed adjusting, but the bridge posts just spin in place. the studs are just sitting in the body with no way to adjust. help
Oh man, thank you! I don’t have buzzing. I just have an A string that I cannot set the intonation correctly and after seeing this, sure enough that one string doesn’t hit the edge.
This works perfect on my 2019 gibson LP special TVY. The tilt was so bad bc I had the pull the stopbar waaay back due to intonation... FYI, I slid a shaped bone nut under the stopbar to add more contact points between the stopbar and the body. Yes, the body resonates more than before.
The two screws work as intended; adust them to achieve intonation... leveling the stoptail with a washer is also important; as illustrated in this video.
I have a PRS SE Tremonti 2010 with this issue. There is a Wilkinson Bridge WOGT2 that is a perfect replacement for this bridge for a fraction of the price.
Hi, I do realise this is a very old video, but I have one of these guitars.. and could you advise me on how to intonate it. It’s been hard to find info on this.
Get a set of tone pros locking studs tor the bridge, permanent fix, bridge totally locked down, straight as a dye and bridge does not fall off posts when changing strings
Absolutely right. The lock-down aspect straightens the bridge up perfectly. I've got it on one of my guitars. I've also got a cheap Chinese 'leaning' bridge on another... on that guitar I slacked the strings off and slipped a bar of mild steel under there which happened to fit perfectly and stops it leaning. It also (theoretically) increases the bridge contact area on the guitar... for what that's worth. I'm as happy with one as I am with the other - and given the Tone Pros bridge cost about £100 compared to the cheapie + fix at £10 I'm almost happier with my fixed cheapie...
I have a 2022 Gibson SG Special that was suffering exactly from this issue, only that the gap was not only some tenth of a millimeter (which should not be a real issue), but more than 2 mm. With that the angle of the bridge was really bad, so that the strings were leaving the bridge before reaching the compensation heights. My solution were TonePros studs, that allow to tune the gap, as the upper part is a screw. For my US Gibson the ones with US format fit perfectly well and could easily be exchanged, without any drilling or so. With that the compensation works and the guitar is nicely in tune everywhere. The only annoying thing is that Gibson quality ensurance let such badly manufactured studs with much too much space to fit the bridge properly pass. For me, as a customer, a bad experience and extra costs.
😲 That's what the stock tail piece on my $150 - Epiphone LP Special 1 looks like , PRS , you're kidding 😄 , I was wondering if the intonation was adjustable , thanks , it looks kinda cheap that way but saves a lot of hardware from getting in your hand rest area.
@@arthurgraham3356 Good. Yup, light gauge strings have a wider vibrational pattern. I use 10's on all my PRS guitars and love them. Actually I switched from standard D'addario strings to the NYXL ones and they sound and feel so good on my PRS's. More so than other guitars.
Thanks, bud! I fricken hate the wraparound I'm working with. It's my friend's guitar though, so no hard feelings on my end. Just want to try and set it up and intonate it for him. (As much that is possible w this stupid wraparound lol.)
How low can I get the action with this fixed stop tail piece. Comment/Opinion is welcomed. I have acquired an older a prs se semi hollow with this type bridge. Action is higher than desired.
You screw those bolts in down to the deck, and the strings should be laying right on the frets. Here's a tip: You should always loosen the strings before you make any actual adjustments to the bridge, then tune them again to check your adjustment. Turning the bridge screws while under full string tension is likely to mar or gouge some polished metal surfaces and is also likely to put heavy wear & tear on threads. I cringe when I see RUclipsrs adjusting a tension rod without first loosening the strings. Pissing around with a set of tuning machines might be boring & aggravating, but not nearly as much as stripped threads on a tension rod. As for your string action, there are GUIDELINES (such as manufacturer's listed setup specs), but no hard & fast rules. A general guideline measurement for desired string height at the 12th fret of an electric would be about between 4/64th & 5/64ths for the low E, and between 3/64ths & 4/64ths for the high E. That's about where the world's best players want it. You can add a little height for an acoustic. That measurement is taken from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the string being measured, and not everybody measures their string action that same exact way, but it's a pretty common way. I wanna get cards printed up that say, "Please, Randy, can you maybe get the string action just a little lower, pleeez?" That way, I won't have to keep hearing it five times a day, they can just show me that card, lol. BTW, since the 12th fret is half the length of the entire string, simple geometry will tell you that if you want to lower the string at the 12th fret by, say, 1/64th of an inch, then you need to lower it at the bridge by twice that height. Most of all, William, have FUN.
Good explanation for the most part. Hopefully this is your guitar and not someone else's, as I cringe to see the portion where you drop the stud onto the face of the guitar and then place the stud on it too. If you had a cloth to cover the area, or tape, I could give a 2 thumbs up here. 1 thumb up for your visual aids and explanation.
It looks like your bridge is parallel to the bridge pick-up. Is it it supposed to be? Mine is at an angle! The strings are a little crooked,right on top of my bridge.
Guitar Guts I actually set the intonation up on mine today,and it doesn't set like it did,but it's at an angle still. That's why I was wondering. Thanks
This bridges are rubbish. I buy a wilkinson bridge you can intonate ich string and dat for 20 box the sustain is super. The other prs aluminum tchep bridge are rubich for sutch expensive guitars
This tailpiece has a major flaw, no way can I believe you can set 6 strings with 2 set screws, you just have to be willing to have a slightly out-of-tune guitar all the time.
"just drill a hole in the guitar body and shove one of these studs in" - someone that's entire family needs to be euthenized. Only then can we stop people like this from AT BEST spreading misinformation. The amount of warping, abuse and setups done by this guy it would take to have, your factory fitted, METRIC BRIDGE STUDS (for Korean import SE models) lean towards the headstock is hilarious. He says he's never experienced this issue himself and not pointing out that the US threaded studs are too small to fit Import PRS guitars as they MUST have Metric studs which have a greater surface area. If you buy a 3rd party bridge (Looking at you tonepros avt-2 wraparound locking bridge) you will get the US threaded or standard studs. Even if you ignore everything anyone has ever said, do not, shove, pull, stab, propose to or literally anything other than the proper tension/leverage method you can hear from or get done by your local guitar shop or.... Not someone who tries explaining something he points out he's never experienced. Do whatever you want to your own guitar. Ive done plenty of stupid and awesome things to guitars. None of them involved permantely damaging one of if not THE most vital tension point on your guitar. Don't take my rant as advice. Make your own decisions, check it out and realise the road to hell is paved with good intentions. Such as poorly worded and off hand comment based tutorials that require one of those dolls courthouses use to identify where the defendant molested them.
you missunderstood him...the drilling and inserting a dowel is how a failing post insert is fixed...and nowhere did i hear on this video to swap american with metric pcs...
I'm not having the buzzing issue, but this video provided a really helpful description of the general workings of this type of bridge. Thanks!
Also, since some folks have complained that I type too long a comment, I will add more here. For the replies that say this Tail Piece is junk shame on PRS etc. Wraparound bridges have been around since before many of us were born. And the presenter shows a minor flaw that can cause some issues, but a simple almost free fix vs buying a replacement bridge etc. Good tip.
I had a similar problem with a Stoptail and Bridge setup on my 2010 Epiphone LP Std. After awhile, I saw the tailpiece bushings were actually lifting out of the body and the tailpiece leaned toward the bridge. Took it to the Gibson Warranty luthier here in Maryland. Once fixed, I took his explanation on why and how he fixed it like he did. I could still see his method as leaving room for failure and decided to fix it myself. Long story short, The flaw is the method/tools/skill with which the Factory Chinese ":builder" drills the holes. It fails to take into account the scooped contour of the body of a Les Paul to achieve a tight and straight stud installation with the drilling method the factory uses. My fix was a bit tricky, Bottom line is I used hide glue to install 2 hardwood dowel plugs. I drilled the plugs out straight, stopping just shy of bushings diameter. This yields essentially a thin sleeve of wood glued into the former egg shaped old holes. Reinserted the bushings, screwed in the studs and the fix was complete.
Hi there...thanks for posting! I have a 2007 SE Singlecut that had that "chimey" buzz on the first string. I installed a tusq xl nut and set the nut height ....and no difference! I used two washers from a couple of old pots, cut and fitted them and the first thing I noted was that the bridge was firm - it didn't fall out even when the guitar was moved around. After putting on a set of 9-42's...no chimey first string. Intonation is spot on...and I saved $120 by not buying a TonePros....
This is an outstanding tip. Thank you so much for sharing this.
This is so simple and so fuckin' brilliant at the same time.
A far better and more economic advice than buying a TonePros bridge.
This will cost only 4-6 cts.
You can also use only the bolts of the Tone Pros System II Locking Tailpiece Studs .... you can buy them in US thread and metric thread
This is helpful, thanks- I was a little worried about my SE Paul’s because when tightening the small Allen bolts I overtightened them, not realizing I was supposed to have stopped- didn’t realize til I strummed and all the strings were way above pitch! I backed them off to where they belonged and only then noticed the posts seem to be leaning slightly forward. I have no way to know if they already were doing that or not, but as long as it holds tune that means nothing’s moving so practically speaking there’s no problem. Thanks.
Thank you Much That was my plan B ,,,plan A was to drill and recess the bushing bolts. Thanks a lot 👍
I know it's expensive, but it was well worth it to upgrade to the John Mann 2300, I had 2009 Mira, it had a very slight sitar sound on the B and high E from the slightly tilted aluminum piece.
So I invested in the 2300 wrap tail fully in intonatable, it improved every aspect of the guitar string to string note clarity, full barre chords just amazing , sustain improved, ability to intonate, no more sitar. Slightly richer harmonics. If you can afford it highly recommended.
Super helpful tip. Thanks!
Found 2 washers off of the pots that were the exact thing needed
.300 hole and .015 thick for a Ibanez GAX 50
Thank you.
You can try locking the bridge down. Either use a mini hacksaw and a file to remove the flange from the two bridge posts, converting them into conventional bolts, or source two bolts with the right thread and length. I use stainless steel button head bolts. You can polish the stainless bolt heads by chucking them up in a drill and applying fine wet and dry abrasive sheet.
Also source some suitably sized washers that fit the bolts. These and the bolts are available at hardware stores or online. For metric you need M8 bolts and washers.
Fit the bolts into the threaded inserts in the guitar with a suitable number of washers underneath the bridge to get it at the right height. Typical washers are just under 1mm thick which means you can adjust action height at the 12th fret in increments of under 1/2 a mm. With the right height set, tighten the bolts down and as long as the threaded inserts aren't loose in the top of the guitar you have removed any bridge tilt and firmly locked the bridge in place. Maximum vibrational integrity is assured and the bridge will no longer fall off when you remove all the strings.
Thank you! Will try this on my soapbar SE!
Excellent,Well Done.Very Helpful!
I love my custom 24 top ten you are so correct set up is everything
I think the bridge on my warlock has pretty much had it anyways . I think it needs replacing but for now I'll try this method thank you
Thanks friend. I have one of these on my 2007 Mira. 😁👍
I never got to thank you for the video: it worked! Thanks again!
Hello. Is it still good?
@ yes, the washer is still there, and I think the bridge is definitely tilting forward, but still no sitar buzzing at the bridge. PRS needs to fix this in their production line. The body wood is obviously too soft for the tension of the strings solely coming from the one piece bridge and no tailpiece.
@@bilanggoboy I just bought a SE Singlecut. Really good condition, plays great, but i noticed the bridge is tilted (a little). Its not affecting the sound. Thinking about returning it to the seller just because this issue but at the same time I want to keep the guitar. It plays really good.
@ hi man, my SE is the easiest guitar I have ever played. Action is phenomenal. If your guitar bridge is slanting but you don’t hear any sitar buzzing, then you’re in luck. Make sure it’s strung in the gauge you want it for. A heavier gauge might exhibit the buzzing, so keep it where it’s at =)
Good luck! It’s a great guitar man
@@bilanggoboy Cool! Love this SEs too.... I really don't want to send it back... Its in mint condition, cherry burst top, really beautiful guitar. Plays great too. Thanks for the tips, really thinking in keeping it!
I dont have a guitar like that, and this video is 8 years old.
I watched it anyway because it was in my recommendations lol.
i have this exact guitar, and a tech broke the bridge. so i gave it to another tech and they replaced the whole stoptail bridge with a new one. graphtech i think.
but this was years ago, so i go to play the guitar and the action needed adjusting, but the bridge posts just spin in place. the studs are just sitting in the body with no way to adjust.
help
Would it be just as easy to install TonePros locking bolts onto the PRS bridge?
Oh man, thank you!
I don’t have buzzing. I just have an A string that I cannot set the intonation correctly and after seeing this, sure enough that one string doesn’t hit the edge.
This works perfect on my 2019 gibson LP special TVY. The tilt was so bad bc I had the pull the stopbar waaay back due to intonation...
FYI, I slid a shaped bone nut under the stopbar to add more contact points between the stopbar and the body. Yes, the body resonates more than before.
Great solution!
Hey, really nice video! Do you know if this fix is still good? I mean, is the bridge still flat?
can u plz share a vid or pic after putting the washer beneath the bridge
The two screws work as intended; adust them to achieve intonation... leveling the stoptail with a washer is also important; as illustrated in this video.
It's about time PRS corrected this design flaw. I have two PRS guitars with this problem!
Yes mine does too
I have a PRS SE Tremonti 2010 with this issue. There is a Wilkinson Bridge WOGT2 that is a perfect replacement for this bridge for a fraction of the price.
Hi, I do realise this is a very old video, but I have one of these guitars.. and could you advise me on how to intonate it. It’s been hard to find info on this.
Get a set of tone pros locking studs tor the bridge, permanent fix, bridge totally locked down, straight as a dye and bridge does not fall off posts when changing strings
Absolutely right. The lock-down aspect straightens the bridge up perfectly. I've got it on one of my guitars. I've also got a cheap Chinese 'leaning' bridge on another... on that guitar I slacked the strings off and slipped a bar of mild steel under there which happened to fit perfectly and stops it leaning. It also (theoretically) increases the bridge contact area on the guitar... for what that's worth. I'm as happy with one as I am with the other - and given the Tone Pros bridge cost about £100 compared to the cheapie + fix at £10 I'm almost happier with my fixed cheapie...
I have a 2022 Gibson SG Special that was suffering exactly from this issue, only that the gap was not only some tenth of a millimeter (which should not be a real issue), but more than 2 mm. With that the angle of the bridge was really bad, so that the strings were leaving the bridge before reaching the compensation heights. My solution were TonePros studs, that allow to tune the gap, as the upper part is a screw. For my US Gibson the ones with US format fit perfectly well and could easily be exchanged, without any drilling or so. With that the compensation works and the guitar is nicely in tune everywhere.
The only annoying thing is that Gibson quality ensurance let such badly manufactured studs with much too much space to fit the bridge properly pass. For me, as a customer, a bad experience and extra costs.
Thx for this notation.
😲 That's what the stock tail piece on my $150 - Epiphone LP Special 1 looks like , PRS , you're kidding 😄 , I was wondering if the intonation was adjustable , thanks , it looks kinda cheap that way but saves a lot of hardware from getting in your hand rest area.
I have this problem on my American made PRS McCarty. I’ll replace the bridge. Which tone pro bridge would you recommend I use. Thanks.
AVT 2S for USA models. AVT 2M for Korea/Indonesia.
Found I had this problem with light gauge strings. 9s buzz, 10s are better. Now I play 11s and it sounds great.
@@arthurgraham3356 Good. Yup, light gauge strings have a wider vibrational pattern. I use 10's on all my PRS guitars and love them. Actually I switched from standard D'addario strings to the NYXL ones and they sound and feel so good on my PRS's. More so than other guitars.
I have wondered if tone pros makes a replacement. What is your opinion? Thx
land-o-lumox2 pieface2 I’ve been using tonepros on my CU22 core. It’s been excellent but may not fit the SE from what I’ve read
Should we do the same to the other bolt too? To make it even?
Yes
Thanks, bud! I fricken hate the wraparound I'm working with. It's my friend's guitar though, so no hard feelings on my end. Just want to try and set it up and intonate it for him. (As much that is possible w this stupid wraparound lol.)
How low can I get the action with this fixed stop tail piece. Comment/Opinion is welcomed. I have acquired an older a prs se semi hollow with this type bridge. Action is higher than desired.
You screw those bolts in down to the deck, and the strings should be laying right on the frets. Here's a tip: You should always loosen the strings before you make any actual adjustments to the bridge, then tune them again to check your adjustment. Turning the bridge screws while under full string tension is likely to mar or gouge some polished metal surfaces and is also likely to put heavy wear & tear on threads. I cringe when I see RUclipsrs adjusting a tension rod without first loosening the strings. Pissing around with a set of tuning machines might be boring & aggravating, but not nearly as much as stripped threads on a tension rod. As for your string action, there are GUIDELINES (such as manufacturer's listed setup specs), but no hard & fast rules. A general guideline measurement for desired string height at the 12th fret of an electric would be about between 4/64th & 5/64ths for the low E, and between 3/64ths & 4/64ths for the high E. That's about where the world's best players want it. You can add a little height for an acoustic. That measurement is taken from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of the string being measured, and not everybody measures their string action that same exact way, but it's a pretty common way. I wanna get cards printed up that say, "Please, Randy, can you maybe get the string action just a little lower, pleeez?" That way, I won't have to keep hearing it five times a day, they can just show me that card, lol. BTW, since the 12th fret is half the length of the entire string, simple geometry will tell you that if you want to lower the string at the 12th fret by, say, 1/64th of an inch, then you need to lower it at the bridge by twice that height. Most of all, William, have FUN.
@davidkennedy this actually helped ALOT
Simple fix if they just made it like the tonepros 2 so the top bolts screw down tight
That stock prs se tail is the work of the devil!
Btw i have the same emrald green santana se, replaced the tail to badass style bridge
Funny, 5 SE’s with no problem. It’s your devil not mine.
Thanks
I live in Cincinnati Ohio and need someone to help me fix my tail end
Another solution, although there's more cost involved: www.faberusa.com/product-category/faber-tone-lock/faber-tone-lock-studs-spacers/.
Good explanation for the most part. Hopefully this is your guitar and not someone else's, as I cringe to see the portion where you drop the stud onto the face of the guitar and then place the stud on it too. If you had a cloth to cover the area, or tape, I could give a 2 thumbs up here. 1 thumb up for your visual aids and explanation.
HELLO, THANKS FOR THE VIDEO, I HAVE ONE OF THESE, I HAVE NOT HAD A PROBLEM YET, BUT IF I DO, I WILL REPAIR IT WITH THIS INFO, COUSIN FIGEL
It looks like your bridge is parallel to the bridge pick-up. Is it it supposed to be? Mine is at an angle! The strings are a little crooked,right on top of my bridge.
I think its the camera angle and perspective. It isn't exactly parallel.
Guitar Guts I actually set the intonation up on mine today,and it doesn't set like it did,but it's at an angle still. That's why I was wondering. Thanks
This bridges are rubbish. I buy a wilkinson bridge you can intonate ich string and dat for 20 box the sustain is super. The other prs aluminum tchep bridge are rubich for sutch expensive guitars
This tailpiece has a major flaw, no way can I believe you can set 6 strings with 2 set screws, you just have to be willing to have a slightly out-of-tune guitar all the time.
Sooooo PRS sucks????
No sir I don’t own one but I want one they’re really good
"just drill a hole in the guitar body and shove one of these studs in" - someone that's entire family needs to be euthenized. Only then can we stop people like this from AT BEST spreading misinformation. The amount of warping, abuse and setups done by this guy it would take to have, your factory fitted, METRIC BRIDGE STUDS (for Korean import SE models) lean towards the headstock is hilarious. He says he's never experienced this issue himself and not pointing out that the US threaded studs are too small to fit Import PRS guitars as they MUST have Metric studs which have a greater surface area. If you buy a 3rd party bridge (Looking at you tonepros avt-2 wraparound locking bridge) you will get the US threaded or standard studs. Even if you ignore everything anyone has ever said, do not, shove, pull, stab, propose to or literally anything other than the proper tension/leverage method you can hear from or get done by your local guitar shop or.... Not someone who tries explaining something he points out he's never experienced. Do whatever you want to your own guitar. Ive done plenty of stupid and awesome things to guitars. None of them involved permantely damaging one of if not THE most vital tension point on your guitar. Don't take my rant as advice. Make your own decisions, check it out and realise the road to hell is paved with good intentions. Such as poorly worded and off hand comment based tutorials that require one of those dolls courthouses use to identify where the defendant molested them.
you missunderstood him...the drilling and inserting a dowel is how a failing post insert is fixed...and nowhere did i hear on this video to swap american with metric pcs...
The cheap gear Bad advise channel.