Adding the manilla card is a game-changer for me! This makes what was always a fiddly and unsatisfying process into a logical and straightforward procedure. I love your videos, thank you.
I really appreciated you showing the part where you accidentally trimmed off that strip of fabric! It is so useful to see how one can recover from a mistake, and also to know that even the best of pros occasionally make mistakes too!
What an excellent video! I was looking for a simpler box making video but got caught up here. Just loved watching your video with your clear instructions and nice craftsmanship. Thank you for great content and a lot of inspiration. 🌸
Thank you so much for your videos. I'm starting a bookbinding class and your videos are helpful and useful. The informations are clear and easy to reproduce. Thank you very much for your work !
I have followed Sage as well and like some of what he does. I found the same thing with the roller, as I don't do a lot with pva, I prefer paste as I am just an amateur and don't work with it every day. I did find that it is great for laminating boards. I will do up about 20 pieces at a time as I had some thin cardboard given to me so I laminate it to make a thick enough board to be useful. I am glad I am not the only one who has cut off those little ends when covering the trays. Love you videos, they are clear and detailed. Thank you for doing them. I gree with Tom you deserve more subscribers.
Thanks for the video. I have a near 200 year old book I was looking for a box for.. your video showed me why that's perhaps not the best idea. I will instead be making a box for my book. thanks again.
I've now decided my mini springback book needs a clamshell enclosure! Sage has been an oracle in the past but unfortunately he has retired now. I find Franz Zeier's book really useful for box making. BTW, I'm impressed by the recovery strategy on that corner!
John, hold off on the enclosure for the mini-springback. I've got a variation on the clamshell which you might like and I think would be perfect for the mini-springback. I was actually thinking of using a mini-springback to demonstrate it. It's pencilled in for 4 weeks from now. If I actually get really bored during isolation I'll pull out Zeier and try and make that icosahedron. Take care, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Thanks for the tip-off Darryn. I'll put it on hold. Icosahedron starting at A6 - go for it! Zeier's book is great but I used to feel that the chapter on Platonic Solids was included for completeness rather than usefulness. But thinking about it, the one thing that making models like that requires is accuracy. And given that he came up through the German apprentice/master tradition, I imagine that he spent a lot of time practicing and perfecting such skills.
My main videos come out every Saturday morning 4am my time - Australian Eastern Standard. I'm just finishing up part 2 now. Will be locked and loaded soon for Saturday morning. Happy binding! DAS
Ah Ha ! You’ve given me just the thing to protect the best-for-my-budget books I’ve been buying. I suspect my unabridged or even first edition classics are best left in their current condition rather than being rebound.
I have found this excellent series of bookbinding videos a few days ago. The bookbinding course that I have been doing for the past four years closed down during the Covid-19 lockdown and I am not sure when it will restart. So... the DAS bookbinding videos will keep me on the right track and help me move on to other projects. In fact, the sharpening video helped me to get such a sharp edge on my English paring knife that it was like a hot knife going through butter.
Excelente tu compartir, muy claro y generoso. Si pudiera iría a tomar talleres contigo, pero intuyo que estás lejos, por ahora sólo puedo darte gracias y seguirte.
OMG ~ YOUR VERSION OF CLAMSHELL BOX IS A HECK OF A LOT BETTER THAN THE ONE I WAS TAUGHT HOW TO MAKE!! I’M HOPING MY ATTEMPT AT THIS WILL BE JUST AS GOOD AS YOUR’S ~ SEEING AS YOUR THE MASTER!! WILL YOU ALSO BE DOING A VIDEO ON HOW TO MAKE THE LABEL FOR THESE? PLEASE! I HAVE LEARNED MORE FROM YOU AND A LOT BETTER METHOD’S FROM YOU THEN FROM TEACHER OF LONG AGO (NO OFFENCE TO HIM)! YOUR METHODOLOGY IS A LOT MORE SIMPLER TO MASTER!! I VERY MUCH APPRECIATE YOUR TEACHING SKILL’S MASTER!!
@@DASBookbinding Thank You very much ~ In the central position of the label square on mine I would like to use my copyright hot brass special decoration tool there and Gold leaf it ~ I think that would look 😎!!
I want to make a somewhat larger, LANDSCAPE ORIENTED box to hold photographs. So far, I've been unable to find any info about board grain direction in a landscape box. I know the grain of the case pieces should be head-to-tail, but what about the tray bottoms? Should they be grain short to match the case, or grain long? The world seems to think that all books and boxes have a portrait (vertical) orientation, which, of course is not true. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Many, many thanks for your wonderful videos. They truly se the standard!
22:11 Darryn, you could try to wrap the roller (and the glue tray) in a plastic bag and store it at a cool place. Generally this is a good possibility to keep the roller and the glue fresh even when it's no preservative in it. I have good experience with that.
Mr Darryn i came back to this video for how you made the corners, perfect 45 degrees and no turn-ins. Could this work with leather in case binding? I still struggle with my corners
You can do it but leather will be a bit thicker and you will probably be able to see layers underneath or there will be a bit more bulk in the corner. Some people pare is small nick near the corner to reduce the bulk. It's hard to describe this and I'm always worried I'll cut through the leather. Good luck!
@@DASBookbinding i do pare the small nick in the corner. since i dont have a good parring knife i never overdue it though. it helps some but my problem remains.. it all end up to practice and more practice-i was afraid of that..! thanks for answering, have a great Sunday!
This is certainly in the complex category of bookbinding skills. I don't think I'm sufficiently skilled in the wide varieties of methods used by bookbinders to address this. For edge paring I was originally taught tip paring with and English style knife. Some of the most amazing paring I've seen done was heel paring using the same style knife. I practice this every so often but am no where near to mastering. I'm starting to think the the French style knife is easier for beginners, but just can't seem to get myself to change, but also practice this a lot. Arthur Green has a really good video on this. ruclips.net/video/iFUtkgVtwdo/видео.html Good luck! DAS
Thank you for sharing indeed! My book measures 65cm by 53cm which is obviously quite a large book. Would the same tutorial apply for such a large case or should I use perhaps different materials to make it more robust?
I keep reading this comment and thinking the response requires too much detail. The solution is to use what is called double wall construction. Two layers of board and the trick is how to do the corners, and this is time consuming part to explain. Hopefully there is something on the internet for you.
@@DASBookbinding No problem at all, thank you very much. I will have a look... I actually think the lower part could me made of wood :) I will explore ...
love these videos! Question: why doesn't your board warp when you paste it to the manila card? Do you place it under weights before proceeding with pasting the side walls? When i tried this, my base board warped and i couldn't paste the short side walls onto the base, as the line of the base was not flat. TIA!
Have you seen my video on stopping boards from warping? In your case I think the solution is to use a fairly thick PVA. The usual explanation of why this works is that PVA is drier adhesive. But in reality, all adhesives are mostly water. I think what really happens is that a film quickly forms on the surface of materials when PVA is used which reduces the moisture that transfers to the material. That's my working theory anyway. Less water means less stretch which means less warping. Hope this makes sense.
@@DASBookbinding thanks for your response! I am using a 'mix' of PVA/corn starch paste, and find i have to paste both sides of the board (add a fill in piece) to balance out the pull. I was just amazed when you pasted board to manilla card and it stayed perfectly flat!
Wouldn’t it be quicker to use hot glue to create the walls? Then again PVA sets pretty quickly so I guess one wouldn’t gain that much speed after all... As always, a excellent video Darryn! Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us! BTW, any chance that you will publish a video on sewn board binding one of these days?
I'm guessing you're not talking about hide glue. I have a glue gun for projects with my son, but not really a bookbinding tool. The PVA sets up fast and it very strong. PVA is a surface adhesive, but hot glue is even more so. So I would worry about strength and making a mess. The sewn board binding has come up before. It's an obvious idea. All I know about the history of it is that Gary Frost developed it. Often this background research takes longer than making the video:) Take care, DAS
Hi. Great vieos. Going to make boxes for my photoprints like this. But one question. Vat is vanilla paper What purpose does it have. Can I use any kind of paper.
You are spoiled for choice in the UK. The Society of Bookbinders has a page on courses. www.societyofbookbinders.com/education/bookbinding-courses/ I have done workshops with Michael Burke and Dominic Riley and highly recommend both of them. There are many others too and I'd recommend Southern Bookcrafts Club southernbookcrafts.org/ Happy New Year! Darryn
The dark brown is Arbelave bookcloth (colour 2036) . The light brown is what is generically called crash canvas - something like Savanna Naturals (colour 624 brown).
@@DASBookbinding Well, Savanna Naturals is no longer, the only result for crash canvas is Andersen's, nothing in the States (where I reside) or Europe. Is there something else similar? Thanks, Adriel
Love this. Question: my PVA never "grabs" like that. What type do you use and and what strength (glue to water ratio, if any). Thanks for helping us amateurs!!
PVA should grab or tack. I would say there is a problem with your PVA. The usual culprit is that it has accidentally got frozen at some point. I guess this depends on where you live. You shouldn't have to add water to PVA. Sometimes it will become thick in the glue pot from evaporation and a bit of water gets it back to original thickness. The standard PVAs from bookbinding suppliers is the way to go. In the US I'd use Talas and UK Hewit and Sons. Hope this helps.
I would love to know what "crash canvas" is (did I hear that right? Maybe "crush canvas"?). As a non-native English speaker I have no clue what this is, let alone where to get it. Any ideas what this material might be called in German or French? Otherwise great video! I have some old books that I would like to protect in this way.
In the Schmedt sample book it is "Naturleinen" Art.- Nr. 2260- and there are 4 slightly different shades. It looks so similar I'm sure it comes from the same mill - which I guess means it is the same. Not sure about France.
Great job with this. It looks beautiful. I have a question. I notice that you occasionally get EVA glue on the book cloth. You seem to just wipe it off with your finger. I often find that my glue, a PVA from Talas, leaves a slight stain or white space. Do you do anything other than wipe the glue off? Is this just something that I need to live with, learn to minimize, or is there something else that I can do. I'm glad that you mentioned Sage Reynolds. I discovered his videos about three years ago. However, he doesn't make them anymore. Keep up the great work.
Nice thing about Arbelave is that it takes a bit of abuse like that. But when I'm working with the crash canvas I try and be more careful. Much less forgiving. Also, it depends what I'm working on. I remember I wasn't being very careful when turning in under the boxes and got PVA on the cloth. But doesn't matter there because it will get covered in adhesive later anyway. Same with turn-ins which will end up under pastedowns. I've used Jade from Talas in the past and I remember it drying fairly clear. If I do get adhesive somewhere I don;t want it and it's not coming off, spit seems to work better than water. I'm sure there is some science behind that. Ciao, DAS
I have made a few Solander boxes and have a common issue with them. After the enclosures are closed for a week or so, the lids refuse to easily open, they become stuck shut. When I do get them open any subsequent opening and closing is as smooth as silk until the next time. Some interaction between the surfaces is allowing the enclosure to "weld" together over time. I have used buckram, the box clearances are close but in no way binding. I have tried powdering the moving surfaces with no avail. Have you encountered this, and if so, do you have any solutions? thanks!
I buy it from a paper wholesaler in bulk. The product range name is Bristol Systems Board. I think the Bristol board that Talas sells is the same but different colour. I do sell single sheets if you are in Australia for $4 each. Unfortunately the postage is more than the product. Any 10pt/300gsm card stock will work fine. DAS
Search "dial thickness gauge". For soft things like leather I have an expensive Mitutoyo one. For my main bench I have an expensive English made one. Scattered around the place I have cheap Chinese made ones. If you're in Oz I sell the cheap Chinese made ones for $25. I make sure they are working well and calibrated. About 1 in 10 from China have a defect which I can usually fix, but not good enough to sell. Thus why I have so many of them around the place:)
Great Video. Thanks but I’m having trouble with the dimensions you measure at minute 10.09. I can’t figure it out. Can you kindly go over that bit in writing? I can’t get it right and have ruined too many cloths! Thanks.
Yet another excellent video, Darryn. Thank you! What cloth are you using for covering the clamshell? I can't quite work it out. I'm also intrigued by how you measure and cut: is this your own technique?
The trays are covered in crash canvas. It's an uncoated cotton thing. I believe a number of manufacturers make variations on this. I'd love to know where the name comes from. Probably something obvious that I'll feel embarrassed about not getting. www.hewitonline.com/Commissioner_Canvas_p/cl-010-000.htm The case is covered in Arbelave buckram. A really hard wearing coated bookcloth. I think the colour is 575. www.hewitonline.com/Arbelave_Library_Buckram_p/cl-050-000.htm Everything I do I learned from someone. At the most I may have tweaked a thing here or there. There is so much measuring and cutting I'm not sure which part. I do do things a bit different for videos. I normally cut out what I need direct from a roll or large sheet. Actually for grey board, I have piles of this cut to standard sizes. Every couple of months I'll cut a heap up on the board cutter. But this is too hard to show on camera. So I'll cut smaller pieces and cut from these. This is what most people will do at home. All the best, DAS
Thank you so much for all of these amazing videos, I am learning so much and getting better with everything I make. Could you tell me what PVA you are using as it looks much thicker than the very watery stuff I am using - I’m using 3mm grey board, and it still warps - I’m sure it’s the watery PVA. Thank you
I use a Evasol EVA, which is essentially the same as PVA but more expensive, and it's the standard thickness PVA comes. I buy large 5 litre bottles and pour out to my small jars. It thickens up as it evaporates. If you have some too think just leave the lid off and stir ever 10 minutes to stop a skin forming and it will thicken up from evaporation. If you're in the US I'd get Jade 403 from Talas. They recently started selling a thick PVA, but I doubt I would use it. Warping is due to an imbalance for pull on the boards. Using a wet adhesive may produce more pull, but you should be able to counter it. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you for taking the time to reply. I will try decanting my PVA and leaving the lid off a while. I am just “down the road” from you in NZ and have googled the EVA you use and it is available from a conservation supplies company down here 😊 Keep up the good work and thanks again.
@@traceyalexander7720 Evasol has a few quirks compared to commercial bookbinding PVA. It doesn't mix with starch paste, despite what the manufacturer says. The tack can vary with materials a lot. These quirks can be really irritating some times. I regularly think about swapping back to one of the standard bookbinding PVAs. But they are only available in 20l drums in Australia. And their conservation value is questionable. So I stay with Evasol for now. But just wanted to let you know it is quirky. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you very much, that’s really appreciated. All part of my learning experience and good to know. Will continue to follow you and watch all your fabulous videos 😊
First of all, thanks for all of the wonderful videos you do. I am now a Patreon supporter! Can you point me to a source for the crash canvas you use in this project. I am having a hard time finding it here in the U.S. Is there another name for the material? Thanks again.
Thanks for your support on Patreon! I think this cloth is close www.talasonline.com/Cialinen-Bookcloth I thought Gane Bros & Lane had a good crash canvas, but I can't find it now. DAS
It's EVA specifically designed for bookbinding and using with paper (it's called Evasol. In the UK there is Evacon and in the US I'd use Jade 403). The grey board is fairly thick and takes awhile to react to the moisture. The card stock will curl faster. But I work fast. Learning about how materials interact with the moisture in adhesives is important in bookbinding. I have some videos on this topic. Yours, DAS
Adding the manilla card is a game-changer for me! This makes what was always a fiddly and unsatisfying process into a logical and straightforward procedure. I love your videos, thank you.
I really appreciated you showing the part where you accidentally trimmed off that strip of fabric! It is so useful to see how one can recover from a mistake, and also to know that even the best of pros occasionally make mistakes too!
I did a lot of boxes, but never glued the cloth partially as one piece directly on the box and worked from there. Nice precise technique.
Wonderful,wonderful,STUFF. YOUR PASSION AND DEXT WE FITY SPEAK FOR THEMSEVES!!!!!!
The hundreds of hours of practice are appearent in your videos-thank you for sharing your hard won mastery.
Watching you work is so very helpful! Little tricks I never would have thought of. Thanks.
Drop spine box is how Ive always heard this referred to as, I have always wanted to learn how to make this, thank you so much!
What an excellent video! I was looking for a simpler box making video but got caught up here. Just loved watching your video with your clear instructions and nice craftsmanship. Thank you for great content and a lot of inspiration. 🌸
Thank you so much for your videos. I'm starting a bookbinding class and your videos are helpful and useful. The informations are clear and easy to reproduce.
Thank you very much for your work !
I enjoyed following this tutorial this weekend. I’m quite proud of the result, and I am thankful for your instruction.
Great job!! All the best, Darryn
I have followed Sage as well and like some of what he does. I found the same thing with the roller, as I don't do a lot with pva, I prefer paste as I am just an amateur and don't work with it every day. I did find that it is great for laminating boards. I will do up about 20 pieces at a time as I had some thin cardboard given to me so I laminate it to make a thick enough board to be useful. I am glad I am not the only one who has cut off those little ends when covering the trays. Love you videos, they are clear and detailed. Thank you for doing them. I gree with Tom you deserve more subscribers.
Hi Marilyn. Great idea with the thin stock. Laminated board is really nice to work with because it is nice and stiff. Take care. Darryn
I WAS JUST LOOKING FOR THIS A FEW DAYS AGO!! THANK YOU SM!!
Just perfect. Best class ever! Thank you so much!!!
What a wonderful presentation!
Very nicely done. I'll be making some of these in the future.
It's a lot easier and faster than restoring a book, and as I tell clients, you're preserving all the history of use of the book too. All the best, DAS
Thanks for the video. I have a near 200 year old book I was looking for a box for.. your video showed me why that's perhaps not the best idea. I will instead be making a box for my book. thanks again.
absolute legend for making these videos!
Огромное спасибо за доступные и понятные уроки, показаны такие важные мелочи
Thank you so much for all your video! They are wonderful!
¡Impresionada con tu trabajo!
Muchas gracias por compartir...y por esa voz calmada y tan instructiva!
Un saludo afectuoso desde España
I do really need this, I have lots of old books and so worried 'bout storing 'em. Thank you, Sir.
I've now decided my mini springback book needs a clamshell enclosure!
Sage has been an oracle in the past but unfortunately he has retired now. I find Franz Zeier's book really useful for box making.
BTW, I'm impressed by the recovery strategy on that corner!
John, hold off on the enclosure for the mini-springback. I've got a variation on the clamshell which you might like and I think would be perfect for the mini-springback. I was actually thinking of using a mini-springback to demonstrate it. It's pencilled in for 4 weeks from now.
If I actually get really bored during isolation I'll pull out Zeier and try and make that icosahedron.
Take care, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Thanks for the tip-off Darryn. I'll put it on hold.
Icosahedron starting at A6 - go for it! Zeier's book is great but I used to feel that the chapter on Platonic Solids was included for completeness rather than usefulness. But thinking about it, the one thing that making models like that requires is accuracy. And given that he came up through the German apprentice/master tradition, I imagine that he spent a lot of time practicing and perfecting such skills.
@@DASBookbinding could you share the link for that one? (im lazy)
Super explained and recorded, thanks :)
Marvelous videos, very instructive. When can we expect part II?
My main videos come out every Saturday morning 4am my time - Australian Eastern Standard. I'm just finishing up part 2 now. Will be locked and loaded soon for Saturday morning. Happy binding! DAS
Ah Ha ! You’ve given me just the thing to protect the best-for-my-budget books I’ve been buying.
I suspect my unabridged or even first edition classics are best left in their current condition rather than being rebound.
Learn something new every time with your videos. Thank you so much.
Thanks, and I expect you to teach me something in return! Take care, Darryn
I have found this excellent series of bookbinding videos a few days ago. The bookbinding course that I have been doing for the past four years closed down during the Covid-19 lockdown and I am not sure when it will restart. So... the DAS bookbinding videos will keep me on the right track and help me move on to other projects. In fact, the sharpening video helped me to get such a sharp edge on my English paring knife that it was like a hot knife going through butter.
So relieved you got a sharp knife. Nothing worse than a blunt knife, and me being the cause:) Hope your course starts back up soon. Good luck! DAS
Excelente tu compartir, muy claro y generoso. Si pudiera iría a tomar talleres contigo, pero intuyo que estás lejos, por ahora sólo puedo darte gracias y seguirte.
OMG ~ YOUR VERSION OF CLAMSHELL BOX IS A HECK OF A LOT BETTER THAN THE ONE I WAS TAUGHT HOW TO MAKE!! I’M HOPING MY ATTEMPT AT THIS WILL BE JUST AS GOOD AS YOUR’S ~ SEEING AS YOUR THE MASTER!! WILL YOU ALSO BE DOING A VIDEO ON HOW TO MAKE THE LABEL FOR THESE? PLEASE! I HAVE LEARNED MORE FROM YOU AND A LOT BETTER METHOD’S FROM YOU THEN FROM TEACHER OF LONG AGO (NO OFFENCE TO HIM)! YOUR METHODOLOGY IS A LOT MORE SIMPLER TO MASTER!! I VERY MUCH APPRECIATE YOUR TEACHING SKILL’S MASTER!!
I just print the label on a printer and cut it out. Nothing fancy. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank You very much ~ In the central position of the label square on mine I would like to use my copyright hot brass special decoration tool there and Gold leaf it ~ I think that would look 😎!!
I want to make a somewhat larger, LANDSCAPE ORIENTED box to hold photographs. So far, I've been unable to find any info about board grain direction in a landscape box. I know the grain of the case pieces should be head-to-tail, but what about the tray bottoms? Should they be grain short to match the case, or grain long? The world seems to think that all books and boxes have a portrait (vertical) orientation, which, of course is not true. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Many, many thanks for your wonderful videos. They truly se the standard!
22:11 Darryn, you could try to wrap the roller (and the glue tray) in a plastic bag and store it at a cool place. Generally this is a good possibility to keep the roller and the glue fresh even when it's no preservative in it. I have good experience with that.
Such a great channel! The music is a breath of fresh air from some of the loud stuff others use? Thank you!
Excelente video. Esta caja en forma de libro, para proteger los libros valiosos, está fabulosa. Gracias por compartir.!!!
Glad you like it! DAS
I've been looking for tutorial to this kind of box, thank you for this!!
Mr Darryn i came back to this video for how you made the corners, perfect 45 degrees and no turn-ins.
Could this work with leather in case binding? I still struggle with my corners
You can do it but leather will be a bit thicker and you will probably be able to see layers underneath or there will be a bit more bulk in the corner. Some people pare is small nick near the corner to reduce the bulk. It's hard to describe this and I'm always worried I'll cut through the leather. Good luck!
@@DASBookbinding i do pare the small nick in the corner. since i dont have a good parring knife i never overdue it though. it helps some but my problem remains.. it all end up to practice and more practice-i was afraid of that..! thanks for answering, have a great Sunday!
Huh..well thianis a great idea for my junk journal storage..
This is fabulous. Thank you.
I need to make one of theas for a large book that is in serious need of repair. Be a good way to keep it safe .
And a great way to avoid having to do the repair. I use this technique ALL the time! DAS
Can you do a video on your skiving tools and skiving leather edges for binding, what tool do you recommend for beginners
This is certainly in the complex category of bookbinding skills. I don't think I'm sufficiently skilled in the wide varieties of methods used by bookbinders to address this. For edge paring I was originally taught tip paring with and English style knife. Some of the most amazing paring I've seen done was heel paring using the same style knife. I practice this every so often but am no where near to mastering. I'm starting to think the the French style knife is easier for beginners, but just can't seem to get myself to change, but also practice this a lot. Arthur Green has a really good video on this. ruclips.net/video/iFUtkgVtwdo/видео.html
Good luck! DAS
Thank you for sharing indeed! My book measures 65cm by 53cm which is obviously quite a large book. Would the same tutorial apply for such a large case or should I use perhaps different materials to make it more robust?
I keep reading this comment and thinking the response requires too much detail. The solution is to use what is called double wall construction. Two layers of board and the trick is how to do the corners, and this is time consuming part to explain. Hopefully there is something on the internet for you.
@@DASBookbinding No problem at all, thank you very much. I will have a look... I actually think the lower part could me made of wood :) I will explore ...
love these videos! Question: why doesn't your board warp when you paste it to the manila card? Do you place it under weights before proceeding with pasting the side walls? When i tried this, my base board warped and i couldn't paste the short side walls onto the base, as the line of the base was not flat. TIA!
Have you seen my video on stopping boards from warping? In your case I think the solution is to use a fairly thick PVA. The usual explanation of why this works is that PVA is drier adhesive. But in reality, all adhesives are mostly water. I think what really happens is that a film quickly forms on the surface of materials when PVA is used which reduces the moisture that transfers to the material. That's my working theory anyway. Less water means less stretch which means less warping. Hope this makes sense.
@@DASBookbinding thanks for your response! I am using a 'mix' of PVA/corn starch paste, and find i have to paste both sides of the board (add a fill in piece) to balance out the pull. I was just amazed when you pasted board to manilla card and it stayed perfectly flat!
and PS: your demo of turning the corners on the open ends of the tray are the BEST.
Wouldn’t it be quicker to use hot glue to create the walls?
Then again PVA sets pretty quickly so I guess one wouldn’t gain that much speed after all...
As always, a excellent video Darryn! Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge with us!
BTW, any chance that you will publish a video on sewn board binding one of these days?
I'm guessing you're not talking about hide glue. I have a glue gun for projects with my son, but not really a bookbinding tool. The PVA sets up fast and it very strong. PVA is a surface adhesive, but hot glue is even more so. So I would worry about strength and making a mess.
The sewn board binding has come up before. It's an obvious idea. All I know about the history of it is that Gary Frost developed it. Often this background research takes longer than making the video:)
Take care, DAS
Hi. Great vieos. Going to make boxes for my photoprints like this. But one question. Vat is vanilla paper What purpose does it have. Can I use any kind of paper.
A card stock about 300gsm or 10pt. I use it as a type of double wall to make is easier to make.
Love your tutorial, thank you. Can anyone recommend a good bookbinding course in the UK for after covid?
You are spoiled for choice in the UK. The Society of Bookbinders has a page on courses.
www.societyofbookbinders.com/education/bookbinding-courses/
I have done workshops with Michael Burke and Dominic Riley and highly recommend both of them.
There are many others too and I'd recommend Southern Bookcrafts Club
southernbookcrafts.org/
Happy New Year! Darryn
Where can I get the wooden board that you place your cutting board on?
I make them. I have a video on how to make them. Bench hook.
Please can you tell me what name and thickness of brown fabric you used in this project ~ you don’t mention this in either part one or two!?
The dark brown is Arbelave bookcloth (colour 2036) . The light brown is what is generically called crash canvas - something like Savanna Naturals (colour 624 brown).
@@DASBookbinding Thank You very much!!
@@DASBookbinding Well, Savanna Naturals is no longer, the only result for crash canvas is Andersen's, nothing in the States (where I reside) or Europe. Is there something else similar?
Thanks,
Adriel
Love this. Question: my PVA never "grabs" like that. What type do you use and and what strength (glue to water ratio, if any). Thanks for helping us amateurs!!
PVA should grab or tack. I would say there is a problem with your PVA. The usual culprit is that it has accidentally got frozen at some point. I guess this depends on where you live. You shouldn't have to add water to PVA. Sometimes it will become thick in the glue pot from evaporation and a bit of water gets it back to original thickness. The standard PVAs from bookbinding suppliers is the way to go. In the US I'd use Talas and UK Hewit and Sons. Hope this helps.
I would love to know what "crash canvas" is (did I hear that right? Maybe "crush canvas"?). As a non-native English speaker I have no clue what this is, let alone where to get it. Any ideas what this material might be called in German or French?
Otherwise great video! I have some old books that I would like to protect in this way.
In the Schmedt sample book it is "Naturleinen" Art.- Nr. 2260- and there are 4 slightly different shades. It looks so similar I'm sure it comes from the same mill - which I guess means it is the same.
Not sure about France.
@@DASBookbinding Thank you so much!
Great job with this. It looks beautiful. I have a question. I notice that you occasionally get EVA glue on the book cloth. You seem to just wipe it off with your finger. I often find that my glue, a PVA from Talas, leaves a slight stain or white space. Do you do anything other than wipe the glue off? Is this just something that I need to live with, learn to minimize, or is there something else that I can do.
I'm glad that you mentioned Sage Reynolds. I discovered his videos about three years ago. However, he doesn't make them anymore. Keep up the great work.
Nice thing about Arbelave is that it takes a bit of abuse like that. But when I'm working with the crash canvas I try and be more careful. Much less forgiving. Also, it depends what I'm working on. I remember I wasn't being very careful when turning in under the boxes and got PVA on the cloth. But doesn't matter there because it will get covered in adhesive later anyway. Same with turn-ins which will end up under pastedowns. I've used Jade from Talas in the past and I remember it drying fairly clear. If I do get adhesive somewhere I don;t want it and it's not coming off, spit seems to work better than water. I'm sure there is some science behind that. Ciao, DAS
@@DASBookbindingThanks for the info. Spit and polish work for a lot of different things. I'll try it and see.
I have made a few Solander boxes and have a common issue with them. After the enclosures are closed for a week or so, the lids refuse to easily open, they become stuck shut. When I do get them open any subsequent opening and closing is as smooth as silk until the next time. Some interaction between the surfaces is allowing the enclosure to "weld" together over time. I have used buckram, the box clearances are close but in no way binding. I have tried powdering the moving surfaces with no avail. Have you encountered this, and if so, do you have any solutions? thanks!
Hey Ian. No I haven't. Ask me when you see me next.
DAS
Thanks for the video! Where do you get the manila cardstock you use and is there a particular brand/type you prefer?
I buy it from a paper wholesaler in bulk. The product range name is Bristol Systems Board. I think the Bristol board that Talas sells is the same but different colour. I do sell single sheets if you are in Australia for $4 each. Unfortunately the postage is more than the product. Any 10pt/300gsm card stock will work fine. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks for the information. I'll have to order from Talas since I'm in the states, but shipping is still more than the order :)
@ 7:37 :-) Heroes of Might and Magic music!
great video! what kind of adhesive are you using here? thanks!
I use EVA (Evasol or Evacon) for boxes
Notice you have an instrument to measure the thickness of cardboard, where can I get this?
Search "dial thickness gauge". For soft things like leather I have an expensive Mitutoyo one. For my main bench I have an expensive English made one. Scattered around the place I have cheap Chinese made ones. If you're in Oz I sell the cheap Chinese made ones for $25. I make sure they are working well and calibrated. About 1 in 10 from China have a defect which I can usually fix, but not good enough to sell. Thus why I have so many of them around the place:)
Great Video. Thanks but I’m having trouble with the dimensions you measure at minute 10.09. I can’t figure it out. Can you kindly go over that bit in writing? I can’t get it right and have ruined too many cloths! Thanks.
It's on the to-do list for this week. Yours, DAS
Yet another excellent video, Darryn. Thank you! What cloth are you using for covering the clamshell? I can't quite work it out. I'm also intrigued by how you measure and cut: is this your own technique?
The trays are covered in crash canvas. It's an uncoated cotton thing. I believe a number of manufacturers make variations on this. I'd love to know where the name comes from. Probably something obvious that I'll feel embarrassed about not getting.
www.hewitonline.com/Commissioner_Canvas_p/cl-010-000.htm
The case is covered in Arbelave buckram. A really hard wearing coated bookcloth. I think the colour is 575.
www.hewitonline.com/Arbelave_Library_Buckram_p/cl-050-000.htm
Everything I do I learned from someone. At the most I may have tweaked a thing here or there. There is so much measuring and cutting I'm not sure which part. I do do things a bit different for videos. I normally cut out what I need direct from a roll or large sheet. Actually for grey board, I have piles of this cut to standard sizes. Every couple of months I'll cut a heap up on the board cutter. But this is too hard to show on camera. So I'll cut smaller pieces and cut from these. This is what most people will do at home.
All the best,
DAS
Thank you so much for all of these amazing videos, I am learning so much and getting better with everything I make. Could you tell me what PVA you are using as it looks much thicker than the very watery stuff I am using - I’m using 3mm grey board, and it still warps - I’m sure it’s the watery PVA. Thank you
I use a Evasol EVA, which is essentially the same as PVA but more expensive, and it's the standard thickness PVA comes. I buy large 5 litre bottles and pour out to my small jars. It thickens up as it evaporates. If you have some too think just leave the lid off and stir ever 10 minutes to stop a skin forming and it will thicken up from evaporation. If you're in the US I'd get Jade 403 from Talas. They recently started selling a thick PVA, but I doubt I would use it. Warping is due to an imbalance for pull on the boards. Using a wet adhesive may produce more pull, but you should be able to counter it. Good luck! DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you for taking the time to reply. I will try decanting my PVA and leaving the lid off a while. I am just “down the road” from you in NZ and have googled the EVA you use and it is available from a conservation supplies company down here 😊 Keep up the good work and thanks again.
@@traceyalexander7720 Evasol has a few quirks compared to commercial bookbinding PVA. It doesn't mix with starch paste, despite what the manufacturer says. The tack can vary with materials a lot. These quirks can be really irritating some times. I regularly think about swapping back to one of the standard bookbinding PVAs. But they are only available in 20l drums in Australia. And their conservation value is questionable. So I stay with Evasol for now. But just wanted to let you know it is quirky. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you very much, that’s really appreciated. All part of my learning experience and good to know. Will continue to follow you and watch all your fabulous videos 😊
Dear Darryn, have you tried the LFB blades for your cutter?
Sorry, LFB? Low Friction Blades? Ta, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Olfa’s speed blade, Darryn. olfa.pl/en/product/olfa-blades-lfb-5b take a look
First of all, thanks for all of the wonderful videos you do. I am now a Patreon supporter! Can you point me to a source for the crash canvas you use in this project. I am having a hard time finding it here in the U.S. Is there another name for the material? Thanks again.
Thanks for your support on Patreon! I think this cloth is close
www.talasonline.com/Cialinen-Bookcloth
I thought Gane Bros & Lane had a good crash canvas, but I can't find it now. DAS
Can I ask what glue do you use? I notice that the cardboard does not curl as you apply it...
It's EVA specifically designed for bookbinding and using with paper (it's called Evasol. In the UK there is Evacon and in the US I'd use Jade 403). The grey board is fairly thick and takes awhile to react to the moisture. The card stock will curl faster. But I work fast. Learning about how materials interact with the moisture in adhesives is important in bookbinding. I have some videos on this topic. Yours, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you! So, what thickness do you recommend?
I usually work with 2mm, but maybe it's too thin ..?
What kind of glue is that
What is the thickness / weight of the Manila card you use.
10 pt, about 0.3mm thick. Ciao, DAS
What brand of bone folder do you recommend?
Brand doesn't matter much. They either come from China or India. I import the ones from India. Hewits in the UK have ones with nice shape to them.
hi! what is the material for pasting the box? thanks.
I think you're asking about the adhesive, which is EVA/PVA designed for bookbinding, or at least for use with paper. DAS
👏👏👏
Do you live near a race track?
It sounds like it, but no, people just treat our road like a race track. DAS
Я считаю, это не развлекательное видео, а познавательное. Я бы и 10 часовое видео посмотрел)