Amazing. Darren, I so much enjoy watching your instructional videos. They're addictive. I have just started book binding classes, at aged 72 yrs, and your attention to detail and methodical approach suits me perfectly. I hope I live a good few years more to perfect some of the skills and tips you are demonstrating! Thank you.
I REALLY enjoyed this 2-part project and I will be doing exactly what you did, only instead of a single valuable book, I have several years of a magazine that I like, all exactly the same size (5-7/8" wide x 8-1/2" tall x 3/8" thick). There are 6 issues each year and a 1-year collection stacks to 2-1/4" thick. I'm going to make identical clamshell boxes for each 6-issue year to protect the magazines in and then I can store them on a bookshelf in their own boxes as if each year were a hard bound book. THANK YOU so much. This is EXACTLY what I needed to solve a problem I have had for many years now.
And… today I just finished a wedding present, to hold wedding cards/ mementos. I merged two of your videos, making a box with a clam shell case, and ribbon to tie closed. Rather pleased with it considering it is the second one I’ve made, and I was squishing two ideas into one item. Thank you ☺
This morning I finished making a protective case like this for one of my mother's precious books. Thank you for all these valuable and clear instructions!
I have learnt so much using this two part set of videos. I have just started constructing one in class. The beauty of your videos is the detail at each stage and nothing is done away from camera. At home, I have the ability to stop and rewind repeatedly. It's invaluable when learning the process of each step. I so enjoy watching a master at his craft. Thank you.
Thank you. I have just finished a clam shell case for a thesis after and while watching your two videos.. A friends’ work, re Ipswich Woollen Mills, that she donated to my spinners groups’ library. Little tiny errors but not visible. Oh, and I added ribbon to tie it closed. It’s a bit big and heavy to not have the extra protection. Thanks again 😊
Thanks! My original plan was to show a way of making a cloth label without finishing tools. But I forgot:( Got distracted by annoying time consuming RUclips optimisation stuff - which never works! Maybe will bring forward a project where I can fit that in. Take care, DAS
Never seen anything so ridiculous in my life, all of that just to make a box for a book? Gathering supplies right now because I'm definitely going to try making one this weekend. Great video!
Hi Mr. Schneider, I'm from Turkey. As an art historian, i admire your work. You inspired me about bookbinding. I will start as soon as possible. Thanks for your effort.
Darryn, Put Mr Claw hammer down and step aside! The most menacing start to a bookbinding video ever in my view. I would love you to focus on labels. I have reached the final stage of this project and I have carefully created a space for a label - and then you leave me hanging in mid-air. Could you please do a video on making labels? Otherwise the bookbinding boys will be paying a visit...
Hi Darryn, well what a fantastic couple of videos, everything in just the right amount of detail. Just completed my very first camshell, and really over the moon with the result, thanks to both yourself and Sage, and yes I agree that Sage's flap over mitres are a great idea. I did make one minor addition, and that was to fill in the inside top and bottom's to the trays between the fore edge turn in and the rear corner, made a very smooth finish. thanks again, keep safe, keep up the great work. Best regards Steve
Hello Darryn! Your work is simply amazing. I want to thank you for sharing you knowledge so freely, you have inspired me to take up bookbinding as another hobby.
Thank you for your inspiration videos. Thanks to you I've now caught the bookbinding bug! Just finished a solander box for a fragile copy of Sterne's Sermons that I had no idea what to do with. Perhaps one day I'll have the experience to rebind it, but until then it's safe in its enclosure. Couldn't have done it without this video. Keep them coming :-)
so the reason for those two small pieces of board inserted when you glue down the second box is to prevent glue from getting on the rest of the case? Thank you, and thank you for these videos.
No. To hold the tray up a bit so there is really good contact to make a good glue connection. The inner tray shouldn't hold the enclosure open at all. If anything a bit small is better. Without the bits of board the outer walls might prevent the outer board touching the inner tray. Hope this makes sense.
Finally have the goods on hand to make my first enclosure. How do you prevent glue from sqeezing out and impacting the finish of your exposed surfaces? I fear gluing too much or accidentally getting obvious glue smudges everywhere.
That comes with practice and apply just the right amount of adhesive. Also having a feel for how hard to smooth out the covering material. Starting out with materials that aren't very sensitive to adhesive and that can be wiped off with a bit of water helps. Arbelave buckram is very forgiving.
Amazing. I have tried to follow your 10-minute slipcase and cloth-covered slipcase tutorials. I will attempt this next. Just one more question: how would you print/gild the label?
I have a blocking press and use foil (real or fake depending on the job). It's an expensive piece of kit. For paper labels I just print them in my Inkjet. One day I'll get a little Adana to make paper labels. DAS
Hi Darryn, thanks very much for your educational videos. I'm re-starting bookbinding after a 10-year hiatus as a way of keeping sane during lockdown. I'm looking to make a clamshell box for a 17th-century text block. It's too fragile for re-binding and there are no boards. Any modifications that you would suggest for a rounded block where the spine is thicker than the rest of the block ? Perhaps raising some of the inner lining to simulate a set of boards ? Many thanks again! Robert
Hi Robert, I think you've answered your questions! The thing that I would think about is whether you put the compensation boards in before covering the trays (which will make the covering job more complex, but may look at bit more polished) or cover the trays, then cover the compensation boards and put them in. I'd have to put some thought into the mechanics of tray depths too. I think putting the spine of the book to be protected at the fore-edge of the box would make it easier (the infill piece that is attached to the inside of the spine board). Good luck! DAS
New to your channel, so enjoyable. Thank you. I have a question for you. Have you explained in any previous video about the different glues you use? If so, can you direct me to it. Thank you
I do have a blog post on this dasbookbinding.com/2019/02/25/bookbinding-adhesive-basics/ And I'm fairly sure I talk generally about adhesives in the methyl cellulose video ruclips.net/video/NMSs-WsJYE0/видео.html Good luck! DAS
17:38 However, for Hebrew, Aramaic, and Arabic the text block is on the left when the book is opened. Though expect no one to even know that, just pointing it out for fun. Cheers, Adriel
Dear Mr. Schneider, at first I want to send to you my congratulations and my highest respect for your wonderful YT-channel! My last own project was this clamshell enclosure and most steps went fine. However, there is a little remaining problem: I always produce little bulky cloth corners at the end of the case joints. I exactly followed your description: 2 mm gray boards, 2 mm spine board and measuring the distance of the joints with a gauge (same gray board and 4 layers of used buckram). I pasted with 1:1 PVA/MC and waited a few minutes to reduce the stiffness of buckram cloth. I carefully used the bone folder to work down the joints exactly. In straight position of the case boards there were at first no bulky corners, but in rectangular position they suddenly appeared. What went wrong? Do you have any recommendations for me? Many thanks and best regards, Rainer Jung from Germany.
Hi Rainer. Sorry to hear things aren't going as expected. I just want to check, there is more bulk than you expect in the groove between the boards and the spine piece in the turn-in area? I just checked a few of my boxes and the groove is not as well defined in this area. But it does not stop the enclosure from closing at all. Does you outer case fold to 90 degrees okay? Let me know if I've understood the issue. Yours, Darryn
@@DASBookbindingHi Darryn, my outer case closes with 90 degrees softly and without any problems. Perhaps I should send you a picture of my "problem zone" for better explanation. Would it be possible? How can i do this? Best regards, Rainer
Ahh just what I needed as I'm just about to make some for my set of first edition Harry Potter books. Can I ask if using 1.5 mm basswood for the boxes is a bad idea? I have a laser cutter so can cut all the panels on that?
My finished clamshell, which I am very pleased with overall, doesn't close fully (springs back open slightly). It seems I didn't allow enough of a gap between the the spine and the covers, though I used your gauge. I have tried easing it with the bone folder, but it doesn't' make any difference. Any suggestions - or is this a learning point for the next one I make? Great project though. Never thought I would get into making boxes when I took up this craft!
Great to hear you got first one done. Now it's together not much to be done. But if it was still just a case you could force it past the closed position and compress some of the board under the cloth. I stuffed up the width of the spine piece and had to remake that project if it makes you feel any better. The lesson for me is try work in the morning when my mind is fresh, not late at night:) Maybe add 2 layers of cloth for you joint gauge. You might have strong muscles and get those boards nice and tight up against the width gauge. I like really tight tolerances on clam shells. Maybe I should have relaxed them a bit for people starting out. Yes boxes are a big part of bookbinding, especially for people doing it for a living. All sorts of boxes. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks Darryn. Learning point for me for next time round! Talking of which I am planning to do a couple of clamshells for 2 rather fragile 18th century books and this time want to use felt for the lining as it's softer. Clearly I need to allow for the thicker material when making the boxes, but as the felt is self-adhesive with a backing paper I wanted to ask how you should apply it? Do you do it in the same way as you have done in your videos or do you do it in sections? I suppose I would use the same method as in your video but can't work out how you pitch the box to the material when you've got no line on the reverse side to work to. Thanks for any guidance on this.
@@DASBookbinding I'm glad I found this video, I'm going to make a few small test boxes before attempting a larger box that I am looking to make, I've watched Sage Reynolds videos and they are amazing. Sage makes a gauge with two layers of board and one layer of cloth, I also like the idea of close tolerances so I think I will try your method first and then if needed add another layer of cloth. Thanks for making these videos they are very well explained and show some options in methods.
Hello sir can i ask for the link where i could buy the covering materials?love what your doin and hopefully i could too..thanks and god bless your passion
Thank you for your excellent, clear videos and beautiful work! I've been getting back into hobby bookbinding recently, mostly because I have a mass of printed PDF files---game rules, papers, etc.---and it makes them so much better to read. Which brings up a question: what are the options for binding single sheets? You've done Coptic binding (the margins can be a problem) and double-fanfold binding, which is one of my go-tos, but what are the other options?
The best thing is to print the PDF files as sections. You could then make lots of paste board with the ones already printed. By far and away my preferred way of binding single sheets is double-fan. Done well it is strong and will last. I have in the past been talked into overcasting on tapes. There is a diagram in Johnson on page 67. In my youth I even "restored" an old book where just about all the sections had split at the spine this way. I shudder to think about it now. It is tedious and frustrating work. But I will concede I think it is sort of the next best option. You can also overcast or blanket stitch groups of pages into fake sections and then try and sew these onto supports. The issue I have with these techniques is that you end up with a row of holes in from the margin that are like a row of perforations waiting for the paper to become a bit more brittle so the pages can easily and neatly rip out. Now you have even less margin to work with for the next rebind. I hope I've convinced you to reprint as sections and recycle the existing copies. You should try the overcasting first. Everyone should have had this experience:) Good luck! Darryn
Absolutely enjoy your videos and I want to create a project using some of your techniques that you shared in this one. I was hoping you wouldn’t mind answering a couple of questions to get me started. 1. The spine ( in brown book cloth) is it the same height as the 3 other walls or slightly taller? 2. If I wanted to add a divider into the tray, do I have to glue it to the grey board first or could I add it after the tray has been lined, i.e, gluing directly to the book cloth. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and I look forward to hearing your advice.
Same height. I would add the divider before covering. It would look much better but a bit more work figuring out the covering. Also much stronger. Good luck. DAS
Very good question. I've always wondered when I'll have to do one of these. So far avoided it. I've read of examples of this in the conservation literature. They make wedges, one for each side to keep the book centered and to not slant the spine. I seem to remember they make the wedges seperate rather than trying to build it into the tray bases. I imagine this is much simpler and if you change your mind about the angle on the wedges you can change them. Sorry I can't think of specific example to give you a reference. Of course these examples would be done in conservation labs where they have the gear and materials to make odd shaped wedges. Sorry, it's not a very useful answer. DAS
Cover the case just like you would cover a book in leather. Key is thin leather well pared at the turn-ins. You would need to fill in between the turn-ins so the trays get good contact. Most people only cover the spine in leather for a quarter covering style.
Finally made it, but I made some calculation mistake because the box closes, but not smoothly. I need to force 😂 Edit: after i left the book inside for some hours and added the case, the box fits perfectly now :D
![Megan Thee Stallion - Roc Steady (feat. Flo Milli) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HozPPyqW0dY/mqdefault.jpg)
Amazing. Darren, I so much enjoy watching your instructional videos. They're addictive. I have just started book binding classes, at aged 72 yrs, and your attention to detail and methodical approach suits me perfectly. I hope I live a good few years more to perfect some of the skills and tips you are demonstrating! Thank you.
I REALLY enjoyed this 2-part project and I will be doing exactly what you did, only instead of a single valuable book, I have several years of a magazine that I like, all exactly the same size (5-7/8" wide x 8-1/2" tall x 3/8" thick). There are 6 issues each year and a 1-year collection stacks to 2-1/4" thick. I'm going to make identical clamshell boxes for each 6-issue year to protect the magazines in and then I can store them on a bookshelf in their own boxes as if each year were a hard bound book. THANK YOU so much. This is EXACTLY what I needed to solve a problem I have had for many years now.
And… today I just finished a wedding present, to hold wedding cards/ mementos. I merged two of your videos, making a box with a clam shell case, and ribbon to tie closed. Rather pleased with it considering it is the second one I’ve made, and I was squishing two ideas into one item. Thank you ☺
This morning I finished making a protective case like this for one of my mother's precious books. Thank you for all these valuable and clear instructions!
I have learnt so much using this two part set of videos. I have just started constructing one in class. The beauty of your videos is the detail at each stage and nothing is done away from camera. At home, I have the ability to stop and rewind repeatedly. It's invaluable when learning the process of each step. I so enjoy watching a master at his craft. Thank you.
I need to do this for my second edition of “The Hobbit”. 😍 Your channel is amazing.
Good luck! DAS
I studied carefully your demonstration today: we will see how I will succeed next days...Thank you for being so clear.
Thank you. I have just finished a clam shell case for a thesis after and while watching your two videos.. A friends’ work, re Ipswich Woollen Mills, that she donated to my spinners groups’ library.
Little tiny errors but not visible. Oh, and I added ribbon to tie it closed. It’s a bit big and heavy to not have the extra protection.
Thanks again 😊
I love your tutorial for this clamshell box. The attention to detail is amazing. Truly an art form. Thank you for sharing
Thank you so much! DAS
This was an excellent multi part educational video series. The case is just outstanding. My most valuable book would be jealous of it.
Very beautiful, maybe you make a videa about difrent type of label and how to put on the books. Thanks again for what you share.
Thanks! My original plan was to show a way of making a cloth label without finishing tools. But I forgot:( Got distracted by annoying time consuming RUclips optimisation stuff - which never works! Maybe will bring forward a project where I can fit that in. Take care, DAS
@@DASBookbinding sounds great, thanks
Never seen anything so ridiculous in my life, all of that just to make a box for a book? Gathering supplies right now because I'm definitely going to try making one this weekend. Great video!
It's a really really old book.
Hi Mr. Schneider, I'm from Turkey.
As an art historian, i admire your work. You inspired me about bookbinding.
I will start as soon as possible.
Thanks for your effort.
Thank you for your note. Good luck! Darryn
Thank you 🙏🏻 I made it with your tutorial step by step and turned out perfect. It is my first box 😌
Thank you for your work! Your videos are always a pleasure to watch. Just finished a clamshell box for a book following your process.
Darryn, Put Mr Claw hammer down and step aside! The most menacing start to a bookbinding video ever in my view. I would love you to focus on labels. I have reached the final stage of this project and I have carefully created a space for a label - and then you leave me hanging in mid-air. Could you please do a video on making labels? Otherwise the bookbinding boys will be paying a visit...
Hmmmmm. I think there is a hint in there somewhere. I'll move it up the list. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you!
Hi Darryn, well what a fantastic couple of videos, everything in just the right amount of detail. Just completed my very first camshell, and really over the moon with the result, thanks to both yourself and Sage, and yes I agree that Sage's flap over mitres are a great idea. I did make one minor addition, and that was to fill in the inside top and bottom's to the trays between the fore edge turn in and the rear corner, made a very smooth finish. thanks again, keep safe, keep up the great work. Best regards Steve
Glad it worked out! DAS
waaaaaaaw how perfect.
Спасибо, за возможность смотреть, как работает мастер
Articulate, crystal clear explanations and demonstrations. Wonderful!
That is very nicely done, indeed. Kudos. [It's also good of you to mention Sage Reynolds. He's given us good stuff too.]
Hello Darryn! Your work is simply amazing. I want to thank you for sharing you knowledge so freely, you have inspired me to take up bookbinding as another hobby.
You're welcome. But I hope you're not like me and have too many hobbies! All the best, DAS
simply perfect, great video and technique
Thank you for your inspiration videos. Thanks to you I've now caught the bookbinding bug! Just finished a solander box for a fragile copy of Sterne's Sermons that I had no idea what to do with. Perhaps one day I'll have the experience to rebind it, but until then it's safe in its enclosure. Couldn't have done it without this video. Keep them coming :-)
You're welcome! DAS
🤩🤩🤩Lovely!!! Thanks
Wonderful work !!! Thanks for sharing !!!
You're welcome! DAS
Great video! Thank you.
CLAMSHELL BOX.. BEATIFUL.. AMIGO
I like a lot your videos, perfect work and very instructive. Thanks you for this.
Very neat and accurate work! A pleasure to watch!
Amazing your technique
This is amazing. Thank you!
Wonderful!
Thanks from french
Amazing!
so the reason for those two small pieces of board inserted when you glue down the second box is to prevent glue from getting on the rest of the case? Thank you, and thank you for these videos.
No. To hold the tray up a bit so there is really good contact to make a good glue connection. The inner tray shouldn't hold the enclosure open at all. If anything a bit small is better. Without the bits of board the outer walls might prevent the outer board touching the inner tray. Hope this makes sense.
Beautiful work!
Finally have the goods on hand to make my first enclosure. How do you prevent glue from sqeezing out and impacting the finish of your exposed surfaces? I fear gluing too much or accidentally getting obvious glue smudges everywhere.
That comes with practice and apply just the right amount of adhesive. Also having a feel for how hard to smooth out the covering material. Starting out with materials that aren't very sensitive to adhesive and that can be wiped off with a bit of water helps. Arbelave buckram is very forgiving.
@@DASBookbinding thanks for the tip and recommendation! I'll find a way to show you the product once I finish it up in the coming months.
Amazing. I have tried to follow your 10-minute slipcase and cloth-covered slipcase tutorials. I will attempt this next.
Just one more question: how would you print/gild the label?
I have a blocking press and use foil (real or fake depending on the job). It's an expensive piece of kit. For paper labels I just print them in my Inkjet. One day I'll get a little Adana to make paper labels. DAS
Beautiful!
Hi Darryn, thanks very much for your educational videos. I'm re-starting bookbinding after a 10-year hiatus as a way of keeping sane during lockdown. I'm looking to make a clamshell box for a 17th-century text block. It's too fragile for re-binding and there are no boards. Any modifications that you would suggest for a rounded block where the spine is thicker than the rest of the block ? Perhaps raising some of the inner lining to simulate a set of boards ? Many thanks again! Robert
Hi Robert, I think you've answered your questions! The thing that I would think about is whether you put the compensation boards in before covering the trays (which will make the covering job more complex, but may look at bit more polished) or cover the trays, then cover the compensation boards and put them in. I'd have to put some thought into the mechanics of tray depths too. I think putting the spine of the book to be protected at the fore-edge of the box would make it easier (the infill piece that is attached to the inside of the spine board).
Good luck!
DAS
New to your channel, so enjoyable. Thank you. I have a question for you. Have you explained in any previous video about the different glues you use? If so, can you direct me to it. Thank you
I do have a blog post on this
dasbookbinding.com/2019/02/25/bookbinding-adhesive-basics/
And I'm fairly sure I talk generally about adhesives in the methyl cellulose video
ruclips.net/video/NMSs-WsJYE0/видео.html
Good luck! DAS
Thank you. I am a retired navy captain that at 60 have started this hobby and love your informative channel
MARAVILHOSO 🥰
17:38 However, for Hebrew, Aramaic, and Arabic the text block is on the left when the book is opened. Though expect no one to even know that, just pointing it out for fun.
Cheers,
Adriel
Good point.
Dear Mr. Schneider, at first I want to send to you my congratulations and my highest respect for your wonderful YT-channel! My last own project was this clamshell enclosure and most steps went fine. However, there is a little remaining problem: I always produce little bulky cloth corners at the end of the case joints. I exactly followed your description: 2 mm gray boards, 2 mm spine board and measuring the distance of the joints with a gauge (same gray board and 4 layers of used buckram). I pasted with 1:1 PVA/MC and waited a few minutes to reduce the stiffness of buckram cloth. I carefully used the bone folder to work down the joints exactly. In straight position of the case boards there were at first no bulky corners, but in rectangular position they suddenly appeared. What went wrong? Do you have any recommendations for me? Many thanks and best regards, Rainer Jung from Germany.
Hi Rainer. Sorry to hear things aren't going as expected. I just want to check, there is more bulk than you expect in the groove between the boards and the spine piece in the turn-in area? I just checked a few of my boxes and the groove is not as well defined in this area. But it does not stop the enclosure from closing at all. Does you outer case fold to 90 degrees okay? Let me know if I've understood the issue. Yours, Darryn
@@DASBookbindingHi Darryn, my outer case closes with 90 degrees softly and without any problems. Perhaps I should send you a picture of my "problem zone" for better explanation. Would it be possible? How can i do this? Best regards, Rainer
@@dr.rainerjung4068 Yep, that would be perfect. You can email darryn@dasbookbinding.com
DAS
Ahh just what I needed as I'm just about to make some for my set of first edition Harry Potter books. Can I ask if using 1.5 mm basswood for the boxes is a bad idea? I have a laser cutter so can cut all the panels on that?
Wood is acid. But if there is buffering material over/covering the wood it should be fine.
My finished clamshell, which I am very pleased with overall, doesn't close fully (springs back open slightly). It seems I didn't allow enough of a gap between the the spine and the covers, though I used your gauge. I have tried easing it with the bone folder, but it doesn't' make any difference. Any suggestions - or is this a learning point for the next one I make? Great project though. Never thought I would get into making boxes when I took up this craft!
Great to hear you got first one done. Now it's together not much to be done. But if it was still just a case you could force it past the closed position and compress some of the board under the cloth. I stuffed up the width of the spine piece and had to remake that project if it makes you feel any better. The lesson for me is try work in the morning when my mind is fresh, not late at night:) Maybe add 2 layers of cloth for you joint gauge. You might have strong muscles and get those boards nice and tight up against the width gauge. I like really tight tolerances on clam shells. Maybe I should have relaxed them a bit for people starting out. Yes boxes are a big part of bookbinding, especially for people doing it for a living. All sorts of boxes. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks Darryn. Learning point for me for next time round! Talking of which I am planning to do a couple of clamshells for 2 rather fragile 18th century books and this time want to use felt for the lining as it's softer. Clearly I need to allow for the thicker material when making the boxes, but as the felt is self-adhesive with a backing paper I wanted to ask how you should apply it? Do you do it in the same way as you have done in your videos or do you do it in sections? I suppose I would use the same method as in your video but can't work out how you pitch the box to the material when you've got no line on the reverse side to work to. Thanks for any guidance on this.
@@DASBookbinding I'm glad I found this video, I'm going to make a few small test boxes before attempting a larger box that I am looking to make, I've watched Sage Reynolds videos and they are amazing. Sage makes a gauge with two layers of board and one layer of cloth, I also like the idea of close tolerances so I think I will try your method first and then if needed add another layer of cloth. Thanks for making these videos they are very well explained and show some options in methods.
I think it could have a ribon if you wanted to make sure it stays closed in a standing position.
It could, like I use in the portfolio enclosures. But a well made clamshell box won't come open by itself. DAS
My guess is that the board that was a "weird" thickness is something you acquired from a US supplier, and it's actually 1/16 inch.
No. I'm used to inches and US board weights. It is weird in that it doesn't match anything currently available. But good guess.
Hello sir can i ask for the link where i could buy the covering materials?love what your doin and hopefully i could too..thanks and god bless your passion
Here is a list of the suppliers I use.
dasbookbinding.com/2020/03/27/bookbinding-suppliers/
Thank you for your excellent, clear videos and beautiful work! I've been getting back into hobby bookbinding recently, mostly because I have a mass of printed PDF files---game rules, papers, etc.---and it makes them so much better to read. Which brings up a question: what are the options for binding single sheets? You've done Coptic binding (the margins can be a problem) and double-fanfold binding, which is one of my go-tos, but what are the other options?
The best thing is to print the PDF files as sections. You could then make lots of paste board with the ones already printed. By far and away my preferred way of binding single sheets is double-fan. Done well it is strong and will last. I have in the past been talked into overcasting on tapes. There is a diagram in Johnson on page 67. In my youth I even "restored" an old book where just about all the sections had split at the spine this way. I shudder to think about it now. It is tedious and frustrating work. But I will concede I think it is sort of the next best option. You can also overcast or blanket stitch groups of pages into fake sections and then try and sew these onto supports. The issue I have with these techniques is that you end up with a row of holes in from the margin that are like a row of perforations waiting for the paper to become a bit more brittle so the pages can easily and neatly rip out. Now you have even less margin to work with for the next rebind. I hope I've convinced you to reprint as sections and recycle the existing copies. You should try the overcasting first. Everyone should have had this experience:) Good luck! Darryn
Absolutely enjoy your videos and I want to create a project using some of your techniques that you shared in this one. I was hoping you wouldn’t mind answering a couple of questions to get me started.
1. The spine ( in brown book cloth) is it the same height as the 3 other walls or slightly taller?
2. If I wanted to add a divider into the tray, do I have to glue it to the grey board first or could I add it after the tray has been lined, i.e, gluing directly to the book cloth.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and I look forward to hearing your advice.
Same height.
I would add the divider before covering. It would look much better but a bit more work figuring out the covering. Also much stronger.
Good luck. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thank you very much for your advice. It’s extremely helpful as well are your videos!
EXCELENTE ..SALUDOS COLEGA DESDE GUADALAJARA MEXICO
wonderful video. I don't know if anyone asked, but how do you deal with a book that is thicker on the bound edge than the open edge?
Very good question. I've always wondered when I'll have to do one of these. So far avoided it. I've read of examples of this in the conservation literature. They make wedges, one for each side to keep the book centered and to not slant the spine. I seem to remember they make the wedges seperate rather than trying to build it into the tray bases. I imagine this is much simpler and if you change your mind about the angle on the wedges you can change them. Sorry I can't think of specific example to give you a reference. Of course these examples would be done in conservation labs where they have the gear and materials to make odd shaped wedges. Sorry, it's not a very useful answer. DAS
@@DASBookbinding no! That's a very helpful idea about wedges. Thanks!
Hi, Is that vinyl fabric or faux leather? How thick it is? Is it lined with paper? Thanks
It's Arbelave buckram. Specifications should be on the web. Made by Red Bridge.
What is the gadget called that you measure the thickness of your board/card with please
I’m sure it goes by many names but dial thickness gauge is what I call it.
How would you go about making something like this, but with a leather cover?
Cover the case just like you would cover a book in leather. Key is thin leather well pared at the turn-ins. You would need to fill in between the turn-ins so the trays get good contact. Most people only cover the spine in leather for a quarter covering style.
❤❤❤👍👍👍
Finally made it, but I made some calculation mistake because the box closes, but not smoothly. I need to force 😂
Edit: after i left the book inside for some hours and added the case, the box fits perfectly now :D
7:49 off ich ech