Magic Smoke and SMASHED Scanners! - PrintFixFriday 137
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- Опубликовано: 8 июл 2024
- Who let the magic smoke out? Find out on this week’s episode of #PrintFix Friday, PLUS come see some epic layer shifts, a couple very strange cases of poor bed adhesion, and a heartbreaking smashed scanner. Come watch!
Isn’t JBV Creative’s 7-segment display cool?? If you made one, what would you use it for?
Go check out the creators in this video:
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Cards:
@Engineezy's Channel: / @engineezy
E3D's High Flow Bambu Nozzle: • Make Your BAMBU FASTER...
SMRRF: • Jetpacks, Tanks, & Rev...
Z-Offset: • How to get PERFECT Fir...
Different Types of 3D Scanner: • 3D Scanning Basics - W...
0:00 Intro
0:51 Bambu Layer Shift: A layer shift on the Bambu leads to some messed up parts for a very cool project.
3:36 Second Layer Not Sticking To First: Some PETG is struggling to stay attached to the first layer in a very odd fail.
6:32 SV06+ Bed Adhesion: A Sovol SV06+ is having issues with bed adhesion and spaghetti.
9:00 Broken Planetary Gearbox: A Prusa XL is having some trouble with its gearbox, necessitating the whole thing be removed for repair.
12:24 Broken Capacitor: A capacitor burst on an old Ender 3.
16:03 Smashed Scanner: A lesson in proper cable management.
19:41 Outro
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Another great video! Thank you, Grant! ...and Victoria!
Glad you enjoyed it!
as of the release of this video firmware 6.0 is out for all affected models including the XL.
When it comes to electrolytic capacitors it's more the electrolyte boiling.
In the Reddit thread the primary theory is that someone had it set to 120V in a 240V country, in which case it's very likely more components than the capacitors have burned out.
yep, that was my theory too
Got to explain the magic blue smoke to a coworker after my car decided to leak out its magic smoke from somewhere behind the dashboard last week. I'm not sure if they believed me or thought I was crazy.
either is acceptable
Had a problem with my Nextruder on the XL and was able to get it working again with Chris Riley's help. I asked Prusa if they sold spare units and they do not. It would be handy to have a spare, since they are fast to replace. So far they don't have any parts except the board list under spare parts.
they really should..
2:32 I printed that exact file on my bambu like two days ago, can confirm it’s a three hour print
nice
For not opening the PSU, I agree don't do it if you don't know what your doing! It ain't funny if it unloads on you. (Don't ask me how I know).
oof
yeah I see a lot of videos where people repair CRTs (as best they can since the tubes are old and heavily used) and It scares me a bit. Those are like 20k volts or something. A PSU less so, but still a little bit. I think a PSU is only about 600 volts.
Ohh, just landed a nearly full spool of ASA-CF from the exchange bin at RMRRF
niceeeee
If you're replacing a power supply - get a good one. I've built a few PCs, and one thing I learned pretty quickly is that the power supply is more important than one might think. A bad power supply can cause frequent crashes, and I had one supply that was so bad it would kill other components. When I build new systems, I don't go cheap on the power supply anymore. I imagine the same holds true for other things like 3D printers.
Grant does recommend Mean Well, which for this kind of industrial style power supply is one of the best on the market and not too insanely expensive.
good power supplies are not pricey, its worth it
@3DMusketeers And not only less likely to die but also less likely to take out the attached device or start a fire.
Furthermore power supplies certified by a testing lab (Mean Well carries the UL Recognized Component mark) have been tested to guarantee proper isolation between the input and output so that there is no shock hazard coming through to the outputs.
In retro the best source of magic smoke is either tantalum capacitors, especially on old IBM PCs (specifically on the 12v rail), and or RIFA caps in the power supply (especially apple II computers). Most of the videos I watch now, they won't even plug a computer in until they've replaced the RIFAs. Sadly the tantalums can appear to be perfectly fine and then you turn it on and POOF! If you're lucky there is no smoke, but it will short out the PSU. If you're not, it will stink for a while. In fact epictronics fixed one computer where he did additional work a year later. He said he could still smell the smoke from it (I think it was a RIFA) even a year later.
In fact a lot of people recommend replacing 16v caps with 25v caps on the 12v rail. 16v is too close to 12v and that's why they fail. Long term use + old age when it was being stressed in the first place.
If you're really unlucky those tantalum capacitors can explode in flames.
Did einstar ever improved their software. If I remember correctly that was a issue when you last made a video on 3d scanners about a year ago
It still eats ram like crazy which is an issue for me :/
DEPOSITION SOUND BASS TEST!
We heard them like at RMRRF, it's impressive!
The scanner hurts. Im not familiar with einstar, but the broken glass means full rebuild in my opinion with new calibration. Not sure how einstar does it, but the scanner we use all have unique calibration plates which cost about the same what i earn monthly. So yeah, i sadly think its borked
The Einstar comes with a calibration plate actually they just don't tell you the numbers lol.
DO IT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
🎉
I wonder what they will consider drying lol
Yay magic smoke 🙂
Set PSU to 120V, plug into 240V, power supply go boom.
puff puff pass?
Just do it :)
nike
I see nothing wrong with insisting someone hold their build plate like a vinyl record. If they REALLY want to learn to solve their problem then understanding what this means, and learning how to do it, are critical. If they don't want to fix their problem they can just hold the build plate like an 8 track instead.