I remember these from the 1980's ! A friend of mine got one for the Salisbury type rear diff in his 109" It was a pain to import to the USA back then ! I thought it was really cool. Later, about 25 years ago, another friend got the same type. These Salisbury versions upgraded from the standard 1.240" Salisbury 24 spline shafts to a much larger 1.500" 23 spline (early Dana 70 pattern). Oddly, the locking control was on the LH side !! This unit is still going strong behind Chevy V8 power. The smaller unit shown here uses the standard 1.240" Salisbury 24 spline pattern with a special 4 pinion differential carrier. Some of these were cast as all new third members that also used a Toyota ring and pinion. I still have an advertisement for those that I got about 1988 !!
lol i'm sure he was just a bit nervous trying to do a take on video, but using it backwards was the cherry on top. The arrow is literally on the wrench.
from memory they were manufactured in Melbourne, they are still in business today, they dont have a website its just dial up only... (these guys are old school so please respect that fact...) the centre bolt just needs to wound out until the first thread appears then wound in a couple of turns (use a socket & bar only) then you rock the vehicle manually or by clutch operation, do not just drive off, just look out of the window to watch & check to see if the centre bolt fully retracts... the "clunk" will let you know when it is engaged, the bolt WILL disappear into the housing, no need for the bung to replace the bolt, no need to remove the centre bolt, the spring action is enough to keep the oil from leaking, however fitting a copper washer is a good go to if you are that way inclined (a rivet counter type ) I have had a Macca diff lock fitted to my old series 2 SWB for over 40+ years (still got that old beast...) it is a great piece of kit for sand, mud. loose surfaces, hill climbing, etc never use it on hard surfaces, pavement, roads, etc it will cause you some serious handling issues and potential damage so its for off road use only and using it over 40kmph off road is a "no no" (speaking from experience...) they are very hard to find and can cost $$$ if you do find one, pulling them apart is difficult puzzle for those not in the know... which makes axle bearing, oil seals and diff repairs an experience that will generate a new vocabulary of swear words...
Roger. I own a detroit 871, and now own a 471. These engines have been proven for a very long time. My commercial fishing boat is simple and redundant. Love how simple, sturdy and elegant the design of that drift lock is. Thanks for the info.
YES IT WAS A GREAT DIFF LOCK I FITTED ONE TO MY 1980 SERIES 3 LWB THAT WAS THE BEST LANDY I EVER HAD I HAD 22 2A LANDYS MANY I FITTED WITH HOLDEN MOTORS THEY WERE TOTALLY USELESS GUTLESS MOTORS FINALLY WOKE UP AND PUT A 4.1 CROSSFLOW ALLOY HEAD FALCON ENGINE BEST CONVERSION EVER. GREAT ECONOMY AND AWESOME POWER. WITH THE JACK MCNAMARA DIFF LOCK WAS UNSTOPPABLE
Good stuff thanks mate. I got sick of waiting for one of these to fall out of gumtree so put an air locker in. I'm sure they only believed me when I paid for it but it's definitely been good.
Excellent video, always cool to see the old school stuff. That said, I really like the Detroit no-spin in my cj 5 and press- of- a- button set up in my 2022 4Runner.
It works after 40 years and it's being abused with a bloody shifter too! ( It's always better with the correct spanner ) Tougher than a Landy. Good on ya mate.
On farm tractors you step on a pedal that locks the rear axle and drive thru the rough stuff. Release the pedal and it disengages. Wonder why that can't apply to a truck differential. I know highway semi tractors also have full interlock factory installed as an option on trucks. In Canada it makes a huge difference climbing a snow covered grade when you have all 8 tires pulling and if seriously bad with chains on all drive sets it makes a huge difference. Just don't try to make a sharp turn. It will either push straight or in rare cases break something.
I never put 2 and 2 together on that myself. My Kubota has a pedal that locks in both rear wheels. It engages easily, so it must be something simple, I use it from time to time. I don't know how it works on the tractor. The rear end on it has a lot more going on than a common road axle. Lol! But I would suspect the tractor is more purpose built for dirt work and, as such, has been engineered to provide this function. Whereas with people hauling 4x4s, not everyone needs a locking differential. I would think this applies to semis as well. It isn't that they can't do it, but is it needed.
I remember when these were around, not quite common, but you would see them from time to time. I always thought you turned the big hex, but never saw one operated.
Except with a Toyota E locker you can pull a couple screws move the rack gear by hand into the locked position and then reinstall the actuator and you still have a locked diff.
You folks Down Under have Toyota pickup trucks like we do. What do you think about the older Aisin manual, quarter-turn locking hubs? I’ve never had a problem with mine and it lasted for over 650,000 miles before some clown broad-sided me.
A bit of a Freddy Flintstone solution in my mind. No comparison with the ease of flipping a switch in the cab for an air, electric, mechanical locker. You typically only need a locker for a very short time to clear an obstacle or climb.
I'm new to this channel, and I'm going to call you a Top Man! This is a wonderfully presented video. Voted & Sub'd👍😎. Greetings from England. P.S. Who remembers Major Leslie Hiddins AM, aka "The Bush Tucker Man" and his 110 Land Rover and trailer?
This is an interesting idea, though the explanation of how it works at the diff end doesn't quite make sense to me and I'm wondering if its entirely accurate? It would be interesting to see this half shaft removed. I'm kind of suspecting it actually works by having a slot in the end of the shaft to grab the cross pin inside a standard Rover 2 pin diff, rather than being able to somehow pass right through the diff centre to engage on the other side (most diff locks actually work by locking one output sun gear to the centre, not both outputs together, as this would still lock up the planet set and is much easier to do given the whole centre has to rotate and the cross pin being in the middle). Doing it this way, whilst a bit crude and probably not mega strong when locked would make it very easy to fit to a stock diff by just changing the shaft and drive flange which seems appropriate for what is claimed to be a cheep simple upgrade which rebuilding the diff centre would not be. Upgrading the Rover diff centre using Salisbury components also sounds dubious. The Salisbury diff normally found in the back of a 109 or 110 is a 24 spline design based on a Dana 60 crownwheel and centre which is simply massive compared to a Rover diff so I can't imagine anything could be swapped between the two. The Salisbury is a 4 pin design with a giant crosspeice in the middle to support the 4 planet gears so there's even less chance a halfshaft could slide through a Salisbury centre. Of course there are smaller Salisbury diffs out there that were fitted to smaller cars which are also of Dana design (25, 30, 44 etc) so its possible this alleged 16 spline setup features bits from one of them rather than the Land Rover Salisbury but I would be surprised if any Salisbury bits fitted a Rover diff without a lot of machining as the whole diff layout including crownwheel and carrier bearing offset is quite a different shape to a Rover. Would love to know more about the innards of this one!
I’ll add to your comments with what little I know. The half shaft/axle shaft , from old images I’ve seen looks to be splined similar each end. I suspect that it simply slides into and engages the centre of the custom cross shaft that the 4 pinion gears rotate on. Many diffs use two rebated overlapping cross shafts but some use one piece with a larger centre section. I imagine this is what is used. I’ll also guess that a Dana 44 carrier was used as these would be about the right size given crown wheel size of both the D44 and Rover diffs. While 16 spline was a Dana application the photos I’ve seen of the McNamara half shaft for these lockers looks much more like 24 spline each end…I think he just got that wrong, like the 8 spline comment.
Glad I'm not the only one left wondering. What he described would be a good way of having no drive at all when you pull the axle out a bit. Been there, done that in a Ford capri, unintentionally of course 😂 There must be more to it surely?
@@husq2100 So it has a spool in the centre that the axle engages inside the four spiders driven by the carrier cage? That also remains in connection with the other side axle permanently? Allowing variable speeds between them when disengaged.
@@jackrichards1863it is a conventional diff carrier, the only difference being the cross shaft that locates the 4 pinion/planet gears. This has a splined hole that the shaft engages and disengages in/out of.
I don't understand how this system locks the differential. From what I see, what it does is engage and disengage drive to the wheel just as a freewheel hub does except in this case it is engaging and disengaging at the differential and not in the hub at the wheel. Please explain how this locks the differential. Enquiring minds want to know.😁
From what i gathere: It's just like a free wheeling hub as you suggest. However you also replace the spider gears in the diff which essentially is a permanently locked diff sending all power in the rear axel to 1 wheel. When the bolt is removed, the other shaft engages and its now like a traditional locked diff. So to me, it seems like you are reducing traction performance when unlocked for the benefit of being able to lock when needed.
From the description / operation ... - the fully floating half shaft - spline (extremely long spline) passes through the diff centre and locks into the opposing half shaft (or the opposite side of the bevel gear carrier... When it is in the "out" position, the differential acts as a normal open diff - released by the spring "IN", it becomes a solid shaft right - to left.. - they "should have" designed it to not require the bolt to be taken all the way out - but just to loosen it and "locknut it into location.. I could see many diffs being ruined by sand entering the axle tube... ( Modern Cordless drivers are invaluable for getting things like this done quickly (use a torque limiting drill -driver not an impact for things like this..).. Here is a description from soleother "pirate 4x4"... "The diff crosspin has to be replaced with something that allows the full floater axle on one side (let's say driver's side) to slide over in the splines of the spider and engage the opposite spider. The diff is then locked. I've seen a few homemade attempts at this and they seem to work well with a custom center pin setup that allows the shaft to slide through."
Interesting concept, simplicity has a quality of it's own. A little inconvenient for some perhaps, but how often would it be utilised. Had factory cable lockers on two Land Cruisers, a HJ61 and BJ71, they were more reliable than electric or pneumatic type.
Lovely ep and setup, My dad had ten brand new SWB land Rovers in a row, From the first ones bought into QLD in the late 40 or early 50s to the 80s, I learnt to drive in one of his 4wd around 1970 onwards, Then Dad saw the light and bought a Toyota and never went back to LRs, I owned a series 2a could not sell it quick enough. and owned Toyotas from then on,
I presume you are referring to FJ-40 Toys. Based on your 1st hand experience It would be interesting to see a comparison you can make of the 2 vehicles with pros and cons either side.
@@78a67h Yes my brother had a new FJ40 with 2f 4lt motor brillant 4wd, but a tad thirsty, , Dad had the near new SWB 2,3lt Rover was the Leyand one what a heap of shirt it was motor was rebuilt in a couple years was hot stunk of fuel and gutless, And the steering was all over the shop, Toyota was serpera in every way, Then he bought the first diesel 3,6lt HJ45 or 47 that was a awesome 4wd. and many more toyotas after that, our neighbours had the later Rovers they seems fine,
Similar to a welded front diff gears or a spool and lock out hubs. Lock the longer shaft for light duty 4wd. Then lock the short side for tough obstacles.
my Iveco Daily 4x4 has cable lockers as well, I think the best solution that combines the reliability of an all mechanical system with the practicality of operating them with levers from the driving seat
So is this a 1 wheel powered welded diff with a sprung loaded half shaft to connect the other wheel? Or is this 2 wheel powered with a longer half shaft where the side gears are always connected to their respective wheel but the half shaft springs into engagement with the diff cross pin when the drawing bolt is removed?
Helical lsd (Torsten is one brand) are the best at almost everything, EXCEPT when tires start coming off the ground. Then you’ll want locking differentials.
@@seanworkman431helical limited slip differentials are NOT locking differentials. This video IS about a type of locking differential, which would work with a wheel in the air.
Very interesting - I have never heard of a McNamara locker. Thanks for explaining how it works - I love old mechanical tech. Do you have to remove the bolt from both sides then? Or why only one wheel? I guess I don't understand that part. Lastly - I was saddened to hear "if you can find one" :-( Pity no one manufactures this product any longer. I guess if it lasts 45+ years, they can't sell enough of them in our modern era of quarterly profits driven greed.
the one axle slides, connecting either to 2 points (spider gear, wheel hub) or 3 points (spider gear, diff center, wheel hub). When it's engaged to all 3 points, the diff is locked because the spider gear can't turn in relation to the center.
I see you use Dunlop SP Road Grippers. Whats your opinion on them? Could you review them please? I am using a set on a td42t GU Patrol in 225/95r16. I quiet like them.
It seems quite a few here have misunderstood the operation of this differential. Unlocked it is a regular operating open differential. Locked it is a fully locked differential. It does use a custom 4 pinion diff carrier/hemisphere that bolts in the Rover housing. As a side note, most Series were 10 spline , except the Salisbury versions which are 24 spline. There is a bit of both in front ends and rears but Salisbury were 24/24 (diff and drive flanges ) from start to finish.
@@jackrichards1863 I think he might just have miss remembered the spline count. I’ve seen photos of the Rover diff version and they definitely look 24 spline, which make sense for manufacturing purposes as well. The longer shaft which also has longer splines each end slides through its side gear and engages in splines in the cross shaft that locates the 4 pinion/planet gears.
Same concept as my D44 front with a full spool, and I leave the driver's side hub unlocked unless I really need that extra bit of traction. My rear is one of those ratcheting lockers which does work, but they get a bit dodgy in snow and ice. And who knows what kind of mileage it'll hold up to?
Hi, I don't understand how it locks the diff, I can see it acting like a free wheel hub, and disconnecting the wheels from the axle, but not stop the diff from er "Diffing"
@@rosswoolley2854 "wrong" in in this case meaning autistic chair bound youtube keyboard warriors complaining about something that in reality doesn't matter as much...
I spent my apprenticeship ripping out those hideous 4 & 6cyl Land Rover boat anchors & installing Holden 6 motors. At the end of all that hard work, the only thing worth saving was the Holden motor. Lando Rover gearboxes are the most hideous rubbish ever produced & the hours trying to pull floor panels & tunnels took precious life from me. Smelting is the only thing worthy of Land Rovers.
So is the differential in the axle locked all the time and you're just pulling the axle out of the right side to disengage that side making the axle left wheel drive? Or is there 2 stages in the right of the diff such that pushing the axle in engages a locked portion and pulling it out leaves in a standard open diff arrangement? If thats the case, I'd like to see a diagram of that nifty engineering.
Probably the same Macnamara who built a better Air locker and sold it to TJM (the now Pro Locker) His son has a youtube channel and it has some good content Neville Macnamara Differential Specialist is the channel name.
@@thegroundwork_vol3 Great locker design, I have them back and front in my 80 series. I just wish they made them in both ratio breaks for Dana 44s like they do for Dana 60.
Confused... so did this mean 1. there was in the pumpkin essentially a welded differential. 2. With one axle slid out / unlocked you then had one wheel, in rear that always drove and opposit one that never drove. Sounds like that would make a world of PITA issues...... like turning and tire wear.
I dont quite understand your explanation, are you pulling out /letting go of the driven axle shaft to that tire out of a perminantly locked "diff" so thats its just driving one side of the axle ? Or are you pulling / letting go of a control rod thats inside the driven axleshaft thus making a regular open diff or locked diff?
I'm missing something here. How is this any different than turning in a set of hubs? The axle is still turning with the wheel, but it has been pulled out of the differential. How is that any different than turning out your hubs. You are disconnecting the wheel from the differential either way. How does it 'lock up' the differential. I need pictures, drawings, and videos to show me how this works.
it's not pulled out of the differential, the shaft is longer than normal (with also extra length splines) and locks the spider gear to the diff center when it's 'in' and works like a regular open diff (with a bit of extra splined shaft outside the hub) when 'out'.
In an open differential both wheels are still doing work until the least tractive tire spins. Take the weak side axle out of the rear in a locked rear and you will soon learn that you need both sides. It's ridiculous how much disengaging one side affects the other.
@@jimandskittumno, it’s always engaged in the side gear. When it’s inboard it’s inside the cross shaft (which is splined) for the 4 pinion/planet gears. When it’s out, it comes out of the cross shaft but is still in the side gear….
Speaking as an engineer I failed to follow his explanation as to how it works and also the bit about the increased number of splines on a drive shaft didn't make any sense either. From an engineering point of view a square socket type of drive gives exactly the same 100% drive as a hexagon key in a socket screw? The other drawback seems be be the requirement to get out of the vehicle, use a spanner on the half shaft only to repeat the same procedure immediately the vehicle is free? Or have I missed something?
How can 4 points of engagement give the same amount of surface contact as 6 points…. As an engineer you should know that an axle shaft spline in a side gear or drive flange is not a press or interference fit, it’s loose….so 24 points of engagement is spreading the load over more area than 10, plus you get the bonus of the shaft root dia is larger on the finer spline and since the splines are not the same profile in this case, the finer is of a better design and less of a stress riser.
- yes, I think the description is a little off, in the mechanical explanation. inserting the bolt isn't taking the half-shaft spline out of action in the differential (bevel gears), it is allowing it to align through the diff to lock the opposing halfshaft (I Imagine it as the one halfshaft having a spline being longer than usual - by the length of the bolt which was removed - in order to match a spline (a smaller end spline ? extension? inside the opposing shaft... This differential has a "modified centre" - -including I believe a splined tube . Drive shapes and angles - after the facesarealigned - now we need to talk about the cross sectional areas at play to see which are stronger or weaker ... In many cases yes a square drive will result in a more positive drive than a hex - especially in smaller cap screws where the high stress on the (small) hex key shears it earlier than a square (or triangular) drive would do.. (90 degree per corner versus only 60..) - Then we can go and talk Torx - Splines are ike Torx vs Allen Keyed screws (torx are m ultiple smaller triangle tips around the Hex.... (sometimes more splines are weaker - if too fine / small - depending on the force per spline and cross sectional area , now for the misalignment that can happen - like threads, how many lands are truly engaged at any one time?? 1, 2,3- not all ?? 16 or 24 9whatever).... (PS. I have the engineering education all sorted too)
@@husq2100 Point taken, and also the reasons why, especially if the strength and the service life of the original design is in question. What I was trying to envisage, was how the half shaft's connected together through the centre of the differential which he didn't explain very well.
This comment has come up multiple times , and been responded to. Why not? Because anyone that has run that set up knows it has horrible driving characteristics. The set up in the video is a diff lock. Normal on road in the unlocked position (open diff ) and fully locked when engaged.
Series one and series two A land rovers came with a twelve spline axles where the series two B and series three came with a twenty four spline axles. Not so prone to snapping axles like the twelve spline axles did. My dad had a series 2A my brother still owns it. He snapped quite a few axcles especially the rear long axcle. A lañdy not leaking oil mate there's something wrong with it😂😂😂. A friend said they don't leak oil they mark territory
Given the axle housing is set up to suit wheel track, spring placement and other things, it’s much more common for people to upgrade their Salisbury housing with Dana internals. D60 CW&P gives more ratio choices and there are options with D60 carriers (diffs) . Though you can buy air lockers, vacuum lockers and ATBs for the Salisbury. D60 parts will allow and upgrade in axle shaft size as well but this will mean custom stub axles, axle shafts and flanges. Of course the D60 stuff is all imperial while the Sals 8Ha stuff is metric, so again custom work is required. The downside to our LR Salisburys is the wall thickness in the axle tube and the axle shaft size (and corresponding parts)
Back in 1992, I built a Dana 60 front axle to match my Salisbury rear. The 8HA Salisbury is basically a Dana 60 centre with metric fasteners, and I swapped a factory series Land Rover Salisbury 4.70 ring and pinion into my custom front Dana 60!!
@@husq2100 Not all Land Rover Salisburys are thin tubes. Certain random Leaf sprung 109" rears have 10MM thick tubes, and the leaf sprung fronts are all thick tubes. The coil rears are stupid thin tubes !! I never understood that !
@@timmcooper294 hi Timm, firstly love your work over the years and have been following your recent endeavours with your group of friends 👍👍 The whole LR Salisbury situation is an exercise in poor engineering IMO. If they were never going to offer larger shafts than 24 spline the D44 would have been more than up to the task, had better ground clearance and less unsprung mass. And it really is disappointing the tube thickness in the coil sprung variants given the beauty of the cast in A frame ball joint mounting point. I’m currently in contact with Jesse regarding your new HD Rover diff replacement for a custom project of mine. I’m also curious how you go about fitting 40 spline stuff in the LR hubs lol. Anyway, I hope you and your family have a good Christmas mate.
Bloody silly idea! The only way this works is that the diff itself has to be permanently locked and when the pull bolt is in the Landy is then just one wheel drive when in normal high ratio and all drive loads are through that one wheel/half shaft. I guess it would be OK with the Stronger Salisbury axle and if Landy spends most its time on loose/gravel surface it would be fine left locked and one would only need to fit the bolt when going on hard surface.
So you saying it isn't a locking differential at all? Just a means to disengage the drive to one half shaft? If that's the case, the other half shaft would need to be permanently driven with no differential function at all .
I dont understand either, if disengaged, and transfer case is in 2WD, you will have no drive, it would be like removing one drive flange on Defender. Unless differential itself is swapped for what would be a spool.
I think it locks splines that mesh the axle to the diff carrier effectively locking the diff . When tightening the bolt into the axle it must move splines past the corresponding splines in the carrier to only engage on the sun gear of that side of the diff? Or that’s how I would imagine it would work?
I could imagine splines on the half shaft which normally sit outboard of the diff, sliding into engagement with splines in the crown wheel or bevel gear carrier (I don’t know which side the crown wheel is on).
My 2WD Ford E-150 has a traditional locking differential... I have the vacuum locking diff in my 91 2WD Vanagon Westy... Of course the center & rear diff locks on my 84 Audi 4000 Quattro are also vacuum actuated... While my Vanagon Westy has gone on moon patrol, crossed rivers & etc. I have been scolded many times by the Toyota 4 Runner and the like, despite that i have never gotten the Vanagon stuck. I did pass two stuck 4 Runners climbing out of a basin when an unexpected rainfall occurred. One of the 4 Runners happened to be owned by a very rude man who had been telling me how I "was an idiot to drive into the back country with a crappy 2WD". Seeing his face while I drove by while he sunk his Toy Auto to the axles... Basically there are many ways to make a vehicle ready for the back country, if it has enough ground clearance, which my Quattro will never have. But the biggest rule I have gone by is having a manual transmission & locking diff is more important than having 4WD...
- yes even with 4x4, without at least one locking axle - it can becomes a 1 wheel drive very easily (IF/R-S vehicles can be even worse as they have less axle travel at the independent ends) - I used to have a Ford Falcon RTV Ute - live axle rear diff lock (e-locher) that got me a lot of places 2WD had no business being.
This isn't to disengage the diff, it's to lock it. As I understand it, there's an overlong halfshaft on that side of the car which normally just engages with the R/H diff side gear. When you remove the bolt, a spring pushes the halfshaft through the centre of the diff so it engages with both diff side gears, so locking the diff.
interesting unit, but the large lump on the outside I bet got hit a few times. the Rover axle is 10 spline on Series, 4.1:1 raito, and the later Rover diffs were 3.54:1 and can be swapped out. The Defender were 10 spline to late 93 and then went to 24 spline. Salisbury axles were mostly 24 spline. So does this work with a modified ahaft and gear? when the shaft slides it goes through the diff centre into the other side gear?
4.7-1 was the ratio for the vast majority of the Series vehicles. The exception being the Series 3 stage 1 with 3.54-1 as it used the LT95 gearbox/transfer case out of the RR and 101FC. All Salisbury were 24 spline at diff and drive flange (except for the limited Salisbury front axles with a CV and the unique axles in the 101FC) All front CV axle assemblies were either one piece drive flange and stub shaft or 24 spline at the drive flange. Series 2a & 3 fitted with the Salisbury from factory had 24 spline front drive flanges as well, and late Series 3 they went to 24 spline drive flanges on all vehicles. The locker in question uses a new shaft etc. you can google it and see the parts quite easily.
@@johnhoffman3145no it’s not. Having driven locked rear with a free wheeling hub I can tell you they have some funky quirks that you don’t get with a normal open diff (which this is when unlocked )
There has to be some modification to the Diff itself for it to still work as a diff should in normal use otherwise I am sticking with original conclusion.
I'm a big fan of Detroit lockers but they are a bit annoying. Air lockers are nothing but trouble. I've never seen a McNamara before. Durable and dependable is what counts when you are 100+ miles off a paved highway and alone. Ease of use is down the list for me.
This isn't to disengage the diff, it's to lock it. As I understand it, there's an overlong halfshaft on that side of the car which normally just engages with the R/H diff side gear. When you remove the bolt, a spring pushes the halfshaft through the centre of the diff so it engages with both diff side gears, so locking the diff.
@@championn3c574. How ? For an overlength Half-shaft to engage with the OTHER Side gear , One , there's a Spider-gear carrier in the way , and Two , it would have to displace the Half-shaft on the other wheel to engage that spline .
@@johncunningham4820 Good point, the Rover diff does have a spider. There must be more too it than just Salisbury side gears in a Rover diff, perhaps a spiderless diff with an extended L/H side gear? I can't think of any other way it could work. Unless it somehow locks the R/H side gaer to the diff cage.
I remember these from the 1980's ! A friend of mine got one for the Salisbury type rear diff in his 109" It was a pain to import to the USA back then ! I thought it was really cool. Later, about 25 years ago, another friend got the same type. These Salisbury versions upgraded from the standard 1.240" Salisbury 24 spline shafts to a much larger 1.500" 23 spline (early Dana 70 pattern).
Oddly, the locking control was on the LH side !! This unit is still going strong behind Chevy V8 power. The smaller unit shown here uses the standard 1.240" Salisbury 24 spline pattern with a special 4 pinion differential carrier. Some of these were cast as all new third members that also used a Toyota ring and pinion. I still have an advertisement for those that I got about 1988 !!
This guy is the king of rounded out bolts. 😂
our you are just terrible at using adjustable wrenches and think everyone else is too...
@@DrTheRich 7:05
@@JaayTea2595 your lack of life experience is showing. Put down the remote and join humanity so you can understand what you are seeing.
@@JaayTea2595running the crescent backards
lol i'm sure he was just a bit nervous trying to do a take on video, but using it backwards was the cherry on top. The arrow is literally on the wrench.
simple, ultra-reliable setup. nice one.
from memory they were manufactured in Melbourne, they are still in business today, they dont have a website its just dial up only... (these guys are old school so please respect that fact...)
the centre bolt just needs to wound out until the first thread appears then wound in a couple of turns (use a socket & bar only) then you rock the vehicle manually or by clutch operation, do not just drive off, just look out of the window to watch & check to see if the centre bolt fully retracts...
the "clunk" will let you know when it is engaged, the bolt WILL disappear into the housing, no need for the bung to replace the bolt, no need to remove the centre bolt, the spring action is enough to keep the oil from leaking, however fitting a copper washer is a good go to if you are that way inclined (a rivet counter type )
I have had a Macca diff lock fitted to my old series 2 SWB for over 40+ years (still got that old beast...) it is a great piece of kit for sand, mud. loose surfaces, hill climbing, etc never use it on hard surfaces, pavement, roads, etc it will cause you some serious handling issues and potential damage so its for off road use only and using it over 40kmph off road is a "no no" (speaking from experience...)
they are very hard to find and can cost $$$ if you do find one, pulling them apart is difficult puzzle for those not in the know... which makes axle bearing, oil seals and diff repairs an experience that will generate a new vocabulary of swear words...
I’ve got one also, I’ve never tried the method you describe. I’m keen to give it a go. It’s always been bolt out/bung in for me.
Roger. I own a detroit 871, and now own a 471. These engines have been proven for a very long time. My commercial fishing boat is simple and redundant. Love how simple, sturdy and elegant the design of that drift lock is. Thanks for the info.
Like the simplicity/ruggedness even though it's slow to engage/disengage. I'd use a ring wrench or ratchet wrench over an adjustable wrench.
I was told the ajustable spanner was called “ the nut fucker “ 🤣but when I open the tool chest my hands still go for it 😂
Guess he's using that because the drawing bolt and the bung are different head sizes
Did hear a sound as it engaged. Interesting and learned a lot from the comments.
YES IT WAS A GREAT DIFF LOCK I FITTED ONE TO MY 1980 SERIES 3 LWB THAT WAS THE BEST LANDY I EVER HAD I HAD 22 2A LANDYS MANY I FITTED WITH HOLDEN MOTORS THEY WERE TOTALLY USELESS GUTLESS MOTORS FINALLY WOKE UP AND PUT A 4.1 CROSSFLOW ALLOY HEAD FALCON ENGINE BEST CONVERSION EVER. GREAT ECONOMY AND AWESOME POWER. WITH THE JACK MCNAMARA DIFF LOCK WAS UNSTOPPABLE
Good stuff thanks mate. I got sick of waiting for one of these to fall out of gumtree so put an air locker in. I'm sure they only believed me when I paid for it but it's definitely been good.
Excellent video, always cool to see the old school stuff. That said, I really like the Detroit no-spin in my cj 5 and press- of- a- button set up in my 2022 4Runner.
Hello from France, I really like your channel.
It works after 40 years and it's being abused with a bloody shifter too! ( It's always better with the correct spanner )
Tougher than a Landy. Good on ya mate.
Stoic Donkey
You named my new truck.
Great video thanks for sharing 👍
On farm tractors you step on a pedal that locks the rear axle and drive thru the rough stuff. Release the pedal and it disengages. Wonder why that can't apply to a truck differential. I know highway semi tractors also have full interlock factory installed as an option on trucks. In Canada it makes a huge difference climbing a snow covered grade when you have all 8 tires pulling and if seriously bad with chains on all drive sets it makes a huge difference. Just don't try to make a sharp turn. It will either push straight or in rare cases break something.
I never put 2 and 2 together on that myself. My Kubota has a pedal that locks in both rear wheels. It engages easily, so it must be something simple, I use it from time to time. I don't know how it works on the tractor. The rear end on it has a lot more going on than a common road axle. Lol! But I would suspect the tractor is more purpose built for dirt work and, as such, has been engineered to provide this function. Whereas with people hauling 4x4s, not everyone needs a locking differential. I would think this applies to semis as well. It isn't that they can't do it, but is it needed.
Thank you for that info.I've never heard of, nor seen one of these.
I remember when these were around, not quite common, but you would see them from time to time. I always thought you turned the big hex, but never saw one operated.
Except with a Toyota E locker you can pull a couple screws move the rack gear by hand into the locked position and then reinstall the actuator and you still have a locked diff.
a lot of the e lockers you can get a cable setup in the cab if you prefer no electronics
"Stoic donkey" made me chuckle. Sub'd. Thanks for the great video.
Thanks, I appreciate it!
You folks Down Under have Toyota pickup trucks like we do. What do you think about the older Aisin manual, quarter-turn locking hubs? I’ve never had a problem with mine and it lasted for over 650,000 miles before some clown broad-sided me.
A bit of a Freddy Flintstone solution in my mind. No comparison with the ease of flipping a switch in the cab for an air, electric, mechanical locker. You typically only need a locker for a very short time to clear an obstacle or climb.
Wish they had of made these for Toyota's and Nissan's, great video
They made a factory cable operated diff lock on the 70 series cruiser
@weazelkerr3844 yeah but not as simple as this system or as sealed against crud getting into the diff
I'm new to this channel, and I'm going to call you a Top Man! This is a wonderfully presented video. Voted & Sub'd👍😎.
Greetings from England.
P.S. Who remembers Major Leslie Hiddins AM, aka "The Bush Tucker Man" and his 110 Land Rover and trailer?
Going by the comments, I think you’re going to have to make another video 🤣🤣🤣
Yep Hue, at least two part and it looks like in the third part I’ll get hung or executed haha. Cheers for your input. Cheers Geoff
This is an interesting idea, though the explanation of how it works at the diff end doesn't quite make sense to me and I'm wondering if its entirely accurate?
It would be interesting to see this half shaft removed. I'm kind of suspecting it actually works by having a slot in the end of the shaft to grab the cross pin inside a standard Rover 2 pin diff, rather than being able to somehow pass right through the diff centre to engage on the other side (most diff locks actually work by locking one output sun gear to the centre, not both outputs together, as this would still lock up the planet set and is much easier to do given the whole centre has to rotate and the cross pin being in the middle). Doing it this way, whilst a bit crude and probably not mega strong when locked would make it very easy to fit to a stock diff by just changing the shaft and drive flange which seems appropriate for what is claimed to be a cheep simple upgrade which rebuilding the diff centre would not be.
Upgrading the Rover diff centre using Salisbury components also sounds dubious. The Salisbury diff normally found in the back of a 109 or 110 is a 24 spline design based on a Dana 60 crownwheel and centre which is simply massive compared to a Rover diff so I can't imagine anything could be swapped between the two. The Salisbury is a 4 pin design with a giant crosspeice in the middle to support the 4 planet gears so there's even less chance a halfshaft could slide through a Salisbury centre. Of course there are smaller Salisbury diffs out there that were fitted to smaller cars which are also of Dana design (25, 30, 44 etc) so its possible this alleged 16 spline setup features bits from one of them rather than the Land Rover Salisbury but I would be surprised if any Salisbury bits fitted a Rover diff without a lot of machining as the whole diff layout including crownwheel and carrier bearing offset is quite a different shape to a Rover.
Would love to know more about the innards of this one!
I’ll add to your comments with what little I know.
The half shaft/axle shaft , from old images I’ve seen looks to be splined similar each end. I suspect that it simply slides into and engages the centre of the custom cross shaft that the 4 pinion gears rotate on. Many diffs use two rebated overlapping cross shafts but some use one piece with a larger centre section. I imagine this is what is used.
I’ll also guess that a Dana 44 carrier was used as these would be about the right size given crown wheel size of both the D44 and Rover diffs.
While 16 spline was a Dana application the photos I’ve seen of the McNamara half shaft for these lockers looks much more like 24 spline each end…I think he just got that wrong, like the 8 spline comment.
Glad I'm not the only one left wondering. What he described would be a good way of having no drive at all when you pull the axle out a bit. Been there, done that in a Ford capri, unintentionally of course 😂 There must be more to it surely?
@@husq2100 So it has a spool in the centre that the axle engages inside the four spiders driven by the carrier cage? That also remains in connection with the other side axle permanently? Allowing variable speeds between them when disengaged.
100% Agreed.
@@jackrichards1863it is a conventional diff carrier, the only difference being the cross shaft that locates the 4 pinion/planet gears. This has a splined hole that the shaft engages and disengages in/out of.
How about a Detroit locker, been in use for more than 40 years and you don’t have to do any thing but push the gas pedal 🥱
Yes, similar simplicity with greater convenience.
@@LTVoyager The end poking out of the rim will get hung up and snap off.
@@TokenTombstoneany minute now I'm sure since it's only been there 40 years.
I don't understand how this system locks the differential. From what I see, what it does is engage and disengage drive to the wheel just as a freewheel hub does except in this case it is engaging and disengaging at the differential and not in the hub at the wheel.
Please explain how this locks the differential.
Enquiring minds want to know.😁
From what i gathere:
It's just like a free wheeling hub as you suggest. However you also replace the spider gears in the diff which essentially is a permanently locked diff sending all power in the rear axel to 1 wheel.
When the bolt is removed, the other shaft engages and its now like a traditional locked diff.
So to me, it seems like you are reducing traction performance when unlocked for the benefit of being able to lock when needed.
@@SethjxlYou are correct.
From the description / operation ... - the fully floating half shaft - spline (extremely long spline) passes through the diff centre and locks into the opposing half shaft (or the opposite side of the bevel gear carrier... When it is in the "out" position, the differential acts as a normal open diff - released by the spring "IN", it becomes a solid shaft right - to left..
- they "should have" designed it to not require the bolt to be taken all the way out - but just to loosen it and "locknut it into location.. I could see many diffs being ruined by sand entering the axle tube... ( Modern Cordless drivers are invaluable for getting things like this done quickly (use a torque limiting drill -driver not an impact for things like this..)..
Here is a description from soleother "pirate 4x4"... "The diff crosspin has to be replaced with something that allows the full floater axle on one side (let's say driver's side) to slide over in the splines of the spider and engage the opposite spider. The diff is then locked. I've seen a few homemade attempts at this and they seem to work well with a custom center pin setup that allows the shaft to slide through."
@@simoncarter5951no he is not, nor you lol
@@kadmowit slides in and out of the carrier cross shaft that supports the 4 pinion/planet gears.
Interesting concept, simplicity has a quality of it's own. A little inconvenient for some perhaps, but how often would it be utilised. Had factory cable lockers on two Land Cruisers, a HJ61 and BJ71, they were more reliable than electric or pneumatic type.
Lovely ep and setup, My dad had ten brand new SWB land Rovers in a row, From the first ones bought into QLD in the late 40 or early 50s to the 80s, I learnt to drive in one of his 4wd around 1970 onwards, Then Dad saw the light and bought a Toyota and never went back to LRs, I owned a series 2a could not sell it quick enough. and owned Toyotas from then on,
Another yellow puddle in the sand.
I presume you are referring to FJ-40 Toys. Based on your 1st hand experience It would be interesting to see a comparison you can make of the 2 vehicles with pros and cons either side.
@@78a67h Yes my brother had a new FJ40 with 2f 4lt motor brillant 4wd, but a tad thirsty, , Dad had the near new SWB 2,3lt Rover was the Leyand one what a heap of shirt it was motor was rebuilt in a couple years was hot stunk of fuel and gutless, And the steering was all over the shop, Toyota was serpera in every way, Then he bought the first diesel 3,6lt HJ45 or 47 that was a awesome 4wd. and many more toyotas after that, our neighbours had the later Rovers they seems fine,
But weren't the Landies more fun 😅?
@@killerdinamo08 No to me they were rubbish,
Similar to a welded front diff gears or a spool and lock out hubs. Lock the longer shaft for light duty 4wd. Then lock the short side for tough obstacles.
Stuff that, My 60 series has cable lockers, nearly 40 years old still working perfectly.
And trust me I hate all the new tech stuff too.
my Iveco Daily 4x4 has cable lockers as well, I think the best solution that combines the reliability of an all mechanical system with the practicality of operating them with levers from the driving seat
Nice to have.. ive got one in my s3 swb.
So is this a 1 wheel powered welded diff with a sprung loaded half shaft to connect the other wheel?
Or is this 2 wheel powered with a longer half shaft where the side gears are always connected to their respective wheel but the half shaft springs into engagement with the diff cross pin when the drawing bolt is removed?
the second
I would like to see pics of the internal set up of the whole thing.
Never seen one of those in the UK wish I could get my hands on one
The 'Torson' diff is even easier, any wheel slip and it is instantly engaged.
until it breaks... then nothing is engaged anymore lol
@@DrTheRich have you broken one? Any diff that fails will leave you stranded, all mechanical components have their weak points.
Helical lsd (Torsten is one brand) are the best at almost everything, EXCEPT when tires start coming off the ground. Then you’ll want locking differentials.
@@DrKnowNothing1 but they are locking diffs which is what you want when you get wheel slip which includes a wheel off the ground.
@@seanworkman431helical limited slip differentials are NOT locking differentials.
This video IS about a type of locking differential, which would work with a wheel in the air.
On your audio from 0:39-7:19, the audio is not in stereo. Afterwards through 8:46 at least it is fine.
Very interesting - I have never heard of a McNamara locker. Thanks for explaining how it works - I love old mechanical tech. Do you have to remove the bolt from both sides then? Or why only one wheel? I guess I don't understand that part. Lastly - I was saddened to hear "if you can find one" :-( Pity no one manufactures this product any longer. I guess if it lasts 45+ years, they can't sell enough of them in our modern era of quarterly profits driven greed.
the one axle slides, connecting either to 2 points (spider gear, wheel hub) or 3 points (spider gear, diff center, wheel hub). When it's engaged to all 3 points, the diff is locked because the spider gear can't turn in relation to the center.
Cool. If all you have is a sandy road or a little muddy tracks.
Imagine trying to do this in 3 feet of mud.
I go with old school overtime
Nice
I see you use Dunlop SP Road Grippers.
Whats your opinion on them?
Could you review them please?
I am using a set on a td42t GU Patrol in 225/95r16.
I quiet like them.
It seems quite a few here have misunderstood the operation of this differential.
Unlocked it is a regular operating open differential.
Locked it is a fully locked differential.
It does use a custom 4 pinion diff carrier/hemisphere that bolts in the Rover housing.
As a side note, most Series were 10 spline , except the Salisbury versions which are 24 spline. There is a bit of both in front ends and rears but Salisbury were 24/24 (diff and drive flanges ) from start to finish.
Thats the spline count I remember but he says 16 tooth? So it releases a longer shaft than normal into a spool in the centre?
@@jackrichards1863 I think he might just have miss remembered the spline count. I’ve seen photos of the Rover diff version and they definitely look 24 spline, which make sense for manufacturing purposes as well.
The longer shaft which also has longer splines each end slides through its side gear and engages in splines in the cross shaft that locates the 4 pinion/planet gears.
Same concept as my D44 front with a full spool, and I leave the driver's side hub unlocked unless I really need that extra bit of traction.
My rear is one of those ratcheting lockers which does work, but they get a bit dodgy in snow and ice. And who knows what kind of mileage it'll hold up to?
Not the same at all…
Does the end of the half shaft span across to the oppo spider gear, and engage the spline, thereby locking the spider gears together?
Got one on my v8 series Three!
Use to work, stopped working, one day I might have a look!
Hi, I don't understand how it locks the diff, I can see it acting like a free wheel hub, and disconnecting the wheels from the axle, but not stop the diff from er "Diffing"
Jack McNamara designed and sold the pro series locker to Tjm so air lockers including his?
7:23 using a crescent wrench backwards
With all his knowledge he still got this basic use of this wrong. The first thing my father tought me to do.
@@rosswoolley2854 "wrong" in in this case meaning autistic chair bound youtube keyboard warriors complaining about something that in reality doesn't matter as much...
I’ll stick to my Dana quick hub locks on my 38 year old Ford F-350. 😁
I spent my apprenticeship ripping out those hideous 4 & 6cyl Land Rover boat anchors & installing Holden 6 motors.
At the end of all that hard work, the only thing worth saving was the Holden motor.
Lando Rover gearboxes are the most hideous rubbish ever produced & the hours trying to pull floor panels & tunnels took precious life from me. Smelting is the only thing worthy of Land Rovers.
So is the differential in the axle locked all the time and you're just pulling the axle out of the right side to disengage that side making the axle left wheel drive? Or is there 2 stages in the right of the diff such that pushing the axle in engages a locked portion and pulling it out leaves in a standard open diff arrangement? If thats the case, I'd like to see a diagram of that nifty engineering.
Probably the same Macnamara who built a better Air locker and sold it to TJM (the now Pro Locker) His son has a youtube channel and it has some good content Neville Macnamara Differential Specialist is the channel name.
@@thegroundwork_vol3
Great locker design, I have them back and front in my 80 series. I just wish they made them in both ratio breaks for Dana 44s like they do for Dana 60.
Interesting old school design. It works, but I prefer the newer cable actuated designs over this one.
Confused... so did this mean 1. there was in the pumpkin essentially a welded differential. 2. With one axle slid out / unlocked you then had one wheel, in rear that always drove and opposit one that never drove. Sounds like that would make a world of PITA issues...... like turning and tire wear.
I dont quite understand your explanation, are you pulling out /letting go of the driven axle shaft to that tire out of a perminantly locked "diff" so thats its just driving one side of the axle ? Or are you pulling / letting go of a control rod thats inside the driven axleshaft thus making a regular open diff or locked diff?
O K, I have never seen this before, but it seems like a bit off a bother to have to do that every time you want to lock your diff.
Do you have to unbolt then on both sides of the axle, or does the shaft slide all the way through to the other side?
Detroit locker for the win....
So the diff doesnt have a center or is always locked somehow? Wouldnt this make it 3 wheel drive until tne axle is released?
right audio only
Why not try a second time when it catches on the splines?
I'm missing something here. How is this any different than turning in a set of hubs? The axle is still turning with the wheel, but it has been pulled out of the differential. How is that any different than turning out your hubs. You are disconnecting the wheel from the differential either way. How does it 'lock up' the differential. I need pictures, drawings, and videos to show me how this works.
it's not pulled out of the differential, the shaft is longer than normal (with also extra length splines) and locks the spider gear to the diff center when it's 'in' and works like a regular open diff (with a bit of extra splined shaft outside the hub) when 'out'.
In an open differential both wheels are still doing work until the least tractive tire spins. Take the weak side axle out of the rear in a locked rear and you will soon learn that you need both sides. It's ridiculous how much disengaging one side affects the other.
If you are saying this disengages one side you might want to reevaluate your thought process lol
@@husq2100 I didn't watch the whole thing. I commented when he said it pulls the axle out of the differential. Doesn't that disengage one side?
@@jimandskittumno, it’s always engaged in the side gear. When it’s inboard it’s inside the cross shaft (which is splined) for the 4 pinion/planet gears. When it’s out, it comes out of the cross shaft but is still in the side gear….
Speaking as an engineer I failed to follow his explanation as to how it works and also the bit about the increased number of splines on a drive shaft didn't make any sense either. From an engineering point of view a square socket type of drive gives exactly the same 100% drive as a hexagon key in a socket screw? The other drawback seems be be the requirement to get out of the vehicle, use a spanner on the half shaft only to repeat the same procedure immediately the vehicle is free?
Or have I missed something?
How can 4 points of engagement give the same amount of surface contact as 6 points….
As an engineer you should know that an axle shaft spline in a side gear or drive flange is not a press or interference fit, it’s loose….so 24 points of engagement is spreading the load over more area than 10, plus you get the bonus of the shaft root dia is larger on the finer spline and since the splines are not the same profile in this case, the finer is of a better design and less of a stress riser.
- yes, I think the description is a little off, in the mechanical explanation. inserting the bolt isn't taking the half-shaft spline out of action in the differential (bevel gears), it is allowing it to align through the diff to lock the opposing halfshaft (I Imagine it as the one halfshaft having a spline being longer than usual - by the length of the bolt which was removed - in order to match a spline (a smaller end spline ? extension? inside the opposing shaft...
This differential has a "modified centre" - -including I believe a splined tube .
Drive shapes and angles - after the facesarealigned - now we need to talk about the cross sectional areas at play to see which are stronger or weaker ... In many cases yes a square drive will result in a more positive drive than a hex - especially in smaller cap screws where the high stress on the (small) hex key shears it earlier than a square (or triangular) drive would do.. (90 degree per corner versus only 60..) - Then we can go and talk Torx - Splines are ike Torx vs Allen Keyed screws (torx are m ultiple smaller triangle tips around the Hex.... (sometimes more splines are weaker - if too fine / small - depending on the force per spline and cross sectional area , now for the misalignment that can happen - like threads, how many lands are truly engaged at any one time?? 1, 2,3- not all ?? 16 or 24 9whatever)....
(PS. I have the engineering education all sorted too)
@@husq2100 Point taken, and also the reasons why, especially if the strength and the service life of the original design is in question. What I was trying to envisage, was how the half shaft's connected together through the centre of the differential which he didn't explain very well.
@@mrmyorky5634the spring loaded axle shaft engages/disengages into the carrier cross shaft that has matching internal spline.
Nice, I just push a button.
I know nothing about these cars but why would you want that over a locking hub?
So it's a free wheeling hub, when disengaged it's a one wheel drive
No, not at all…
Why not just use a spool or welded diff and selectable hubs?
This comment has come up multiple times , and been responded to.
Why not? Because anyone that has run that set up knows it has horrible driving characteristics. The set up in the video is a diff lock. Normal on road in the unlocked position (open diff ) and fully locked when engaged.
Does this actually lock the rear diff? Or does it just engage the half shalfs into the rear diff?
Series one and series two A land rovers came with a twelve spline axles where the series two B and series three came with a twenty four spline axles. Not so prone to snapping axles like the twelve spline axles did. My dad had a series 2A my brother still owns it. He snapped quite a few axcles especially the rear long axcle. A lañdy not leaking oil mate there's something wrong with it😂😂😂. A friend said they don't leak oil they mark territory
Simple is better than air or electrical
Since many components of the Salisbury axles were copied from Dana axles, is it possible to build a Dana and add the Salisbury Locker?
Given the axle housing is set up to suit wheel track, spring placement and other things, it’s much more common for people to upgrade their Salisbury housing with Dana internals. D60 CW&P gives more ratio choices and there are options with D60 carriers (diffs) . Though you can buy air lockers, vacuum lockers and ATBs for the Salisbury. D60 parts will allow and upgrade in axle shaft size as well but this will mean custom stub axles, axle shafts and flanges. Of course the D60 stuff is all imperial while the Sals 8Ha stuff is metric, so again custom work is required. The downside to our LR Salisburys is the wall thickness in the axle tube and the axle shaft size (and corresponding parts)
Back in 1992, I built a Dana 60 front axle to match my Salisbury rear. The 8HA Salisbury is basically a Dana 60 centre with metric fasteners, and I swapped a factory series Land Rover Salisbury 4.70 ring and pinion into my custom front Dana 60!!
@@husq2100 Not all Land Rover Salisburys are thin tubes. Certain random Leaf sprung 109" rears have 10MM thick tubes, and the leaf sprung fronts are all thick tubes. The coil rears are stupid thin tubes !! I never understood that !
@@timmcooper294 hi Timm, firstly love your work over the years and have been following your recent endeavours with your group of friends 👍👍
The whole LR Salisbury situation is an exercise in poor engineering IMO. If they were never going to offer larger shafts than 24 spline the D44 would have been more than up to the task, had better ground clearance and less unsprung mass.
And it really is disappointing the tube thickness in the coil sprung variants given the beauty of the cast in A frame ball joint mounting point.
I’m currently in contact with Jesse regarding your new HD Rover diff replacement for a custom project of mine.
I’m also curious how you go about fitting 40 spline stuff in the LR hubs lol. Anyway, I hope you and your family have a good Christmas mate.
That's not a crescent wrench, it's a shifter.
Bloody silly idea! The only way this works is that the diff itself has to be permanently locked and when the pull bolt is in the Landy is then just one wheel drive when in normal high ratio and all drive loads are through that one wheel/half shaft.
I guess it would be OK with the Stronger Salisbury axle and if Landy spends most its time on loose/gravel surface it would be fine left locked and one would only need to fit the bolt when going on hard surface.
So you saying it isn't a locking differential at all? Just a means to disengage the drive to one half shaft? If that's the case, the other half shaft would need to be permanently driven with no differential function at all .
No John it's conventional when unlocked.
I dont understand either, if disengaged, and transfer case is in 2WD, you will have no drive, it would be like removing one drive flange on Defender. Unless differential itself is swapped for what would be a spool.
I think it locks splines that mesh the axle to the diff carrier effectively locking the diff . When tightening the bolt into the axle it must move splines past the corresponding splines in the carrier to only engage on the sun gear of that side of the diff? Or that’s how I would imagine it would work?
I could imagine splines on the half shaft which normally sit outboard of the diff, sliding into engagement with splines in the crown wheel or bevel gear carrier (I don’t know which side the crown wheel is on).
Same effect as welding the diff gears and fitting a freewheel hub.
Not at all…
@@husq2100 @m1cxf is correct.
@@simoncarter5951you are both incorrect.
Is that just a hub lock or a diff lock
So do you have to weld the diff?
No.
So they grow on gumtree's??? 🤠
Sticking out past the rim and tyer is waiting for a big old rock 😖
Die Karren werden doch nur durch Nieten und Aluoxid zusammengehalten. Da ist die Nabe das kleinste Problem.
I wish I could find a Land Rover. They are not native to southern Minnesota.
My 2WD Ford E-150 has a traditional locking differential...
I have the vacuum locking diff in my 91 2WD Vanagon Westy...
Of course the center & rear diff locks on my 84 Audi 4000 Quattro are also vacuum actuated...
While my Vanagon Westy has gone on moon patrol, crossed rivers & etc. I have been scolded many times by the Toyota 4 Runner and the like, despite that i have never gotten the Vanagon stuck.
I did pass two stuck 4 Runners climbing out of a basin when an unexpected rainfall occurred. One of the 4 Runners happened to be owned by a very rude man who had been telling me how I "was an idiot to drive into the back country with a crappy 2WD". Seeing his face while I drove by while he sunk his Toy Auto to the axles...
Basically there are many ways to make a vehicle ready for the back country, if it has enough ground clearance, which my Quattro will never have. But the biggest rule I have gone by is having a manual transmission & locking diff is more important than having 4WD...
- yes even with 4x4, without at least one locking axle - it can becomes a 1 wheel drive very easily (IF/R-S vehicles can be even worse as they have less axle travel at the independent ends) - I used to have a Ford Falcon RTV Ute - live axle rear diff lock (e-locher) that got me a lot of places 2WD had no business being.
@@kadmow4wd got boring so I offroaded with 2wd 54 Chevy PU in volcanic rock and sand desert and jungle. Never got stuck.
Is there one on each side or do you only engage it on one side?
This isn't to disengage the diff, it's to lock it. As I understand it, there's an overlong halfshaft on that side of the car which normally just engages with the R/H diff side gear. When you remove the bolt, a spring pushes the halfshaft through the centre of the diff so it engages with both diff side gears, so locking the diff.
interesting unit, but the large lump on the outside I bet got hit a few times. the Rover axle is 10 spline on Series, 4.1:1 raito, and the later Rover diffs were 3.54:1 and can be swapped out. The Defender were 10 spline to late 93 and then went to 24 spline. Salisbury axles were mostly 24 spline.
So does this work with a modified ahaft and gear? when the shaft slides it goes through the diff centre into the other side gear?
4.7-1 was the ratio for the vast majority of the Series vehicles. The exception being the Series 3 stage 1 with 3.54-1 as it used the LT95 gearbox/transfer case out of the RR and 101FC.
All Salisbury were 24 spline at diff and drive flange (except for the limited Salisbury front axles with a CV and the unique axles in the 101FC) All front CV axle assemblies were either one piece drive flange and stub shaft or 24 spline at the drive flange.
Series 2a & 3 fitted with the Salisbury from factory had 24 spline front drive flanges as well, and late Series 3 they went to 24 spline drive flanges on all vehicles.
The locker in question uses a new shaft etc. you can google it and see the parts quite easily.
Why wouldn't you just get a full spool and manual hubs?
Because it’s not the same and the set up your suggesting has terrible on road driving characteristics.
@husq2100 it would be exactly the same.
@@johnhoffman3145no it’s not. Having driven locked rear with a free wheeling hub I can tell you they have some funky quirks that you don’t get with a normal open diff (which this is when unlocked )
any body else having issues with no sound from 1:16 - 7:28? rest of the video is good.
Its a different form of 4WDriving these old land rovers are Slow and Rough and that filters down to the operator
Now I have to Google an internal diagram to see what is actually going on inside.
This is NOT a Dif-Lock at all... it still let you be stranded with one wheel on Ice and one on dry.... it does NOT block the Planetary Differential.
If only the still made them
There has to be some modification to the Diff itself for it to still work as a diff should in normal use otherwise I am sticking with original conclusion.
There is…..
What is the diff mod?
The inner gears must be welded together. 😢😢😢😢😢.
Nope
I'm a big fan of Detroit lockers but they are a bit annoying. Air lockers are nothing but trouble. I've never seen a McNamara before. Durable and dependable is what counts when you are 100+ miles off a paved highway and alone. Ease of use is down the list for me.
Diff disengagement on REAR axle ? Why ? Seriously , I'm curious .
This isn't to disengage the diff, it's to lock it. As I understand it, there's an overlong halfshaft on that side of the car which normally just engages with the R/H diff side gear. When you remove the bolt, a spring pushes the halfshaft through the centre of the diff so it engages with both diff side gears, so locking the diff.
@@championn3c574. How ? For an overlength Half-shaft to engage with the OTHER Side gear , One , there's a Spider-gear carrier in the way , and Two , it would have to displace the Half-shaft on the other wheel to engage that spline .
@@johncunningham4820 Good point, the Rover diff does have a spider. There must be more too it than just Salisbury side gears in a Rover diff, perhaps a spiderless diff with an extended L/H side gear? I can't think of any other way it could work. Unless it somehow locks the R/H side gaer to the diff cage.
@@championn3c574 Other commenters are saying the axle extends into a spline in the custom cross pins to lock the diff.
@@Mark_Bridges Thanks, yes, a splined ring in the centre of the cross pin would seem most likely.
So, I guess the advantage is strength not convenience.
Mother said not to point.
Torsen. No air, no electric, no clutches, no adjustable wrenches.
To-dae
Why not carry the proper box-end wrench or a tool bag on your rig? Crescent ranch should be your last choice.