Hi Andy... Thank you for sharing your expertise with us. It's very generous of you and so helpful! Just curious if you have any videos on buffing out and polishing the front/side EDGES of corian? (My corian countertop has a 45 degree beveled edge.)
You're welcome. I don't have a video of that but you are basically going to have to sand it by hand. If it's matte finish, sand up to 320 and then maroon scotchbrite. If it's polished sand up to 600 and then use polishing compound.
@@AndyGraves Thanks Andy! As I'm buffing (restoring) my Corian countertops I realized pretty much the same thing... I would need to do the edges by hand. So I wrapped my (wet) sandpaper around a little block of maple wood, using successive grits, and it is preserving the angles quite nicely. Going great. Just slow. Thanks for confirming! :)
Which would be better to use the trizact or the auto body (wet or dry) sanding discs? What micron sizes (if I use trizact)? How many of each sheet will I need? I have 24 linear feet of countertop. It has some surface scratches, nothing deep. I am looking to do a semi-gloss finish. It's a dark color. Mostly black with light colored specks.
Might you have a recommendation for a less expensive Random Orbital Sander for a homeowner who just needs to remove scratches from their (my!) countertop once every few years? Nearly $300 for the Bosch ROS is a lot for a tool that will barely get used. But if that's what it takes, then I'm saving money over buying something cheaper like a sub-$100 5"-incher from Makita or Dewalt that won't end up doing what I need. Thanks for any advise you can give, and *many* thanks for this series of videos.
@@AndyGraves Thanks for your super fast answer. I definitely want something that can hook up to my shop vac. Since the Bauer you mentioned from HF is 5", I guess they're ok to use. I'll find one that will hook up to my 1.25" shop vac hose, and as long as it's similarly spec'd, I guess it should be ok to use. Probably anything I get will make it look better than it currently does!
Start with 150 and see if it will remove the scratch. If not, move to 120 grit . After the scratch is removed work your way back through dinner grid until you match the surrounding shine.
Any idea please the rpm of the sander? I am using a Festool rotex 150 on random orbit, finishing to 400 grit (no polishing compound) and always have dull patches/blotches which annoys the crap out of me. Have tried white scotchbrite in the past with same result. Wondering if my rpm's are too fast or whether I should finish with scotchbrite plus polishing compound. Just want a standard matt/satin finish. Thanks!
Use the Festool at full speed. The reason for the dull spots could be a few things. Make sure you use aluminum oxide or micron sandpaper. Make sure you blow out the sander between each grit thoroughly. Clean the countertop with water between each grit. Keep the sander flat while sanding and start the sander on the material. Dull spots are typically due to swirl marks left behind from previous grits. Hope that helps
@@AndyGraves Thanks for the reply, I pretty much do all that, using Festool Granat sandpaper, clean with metho & water between grits, use dust extraction. Start with 120, 180, 240 then finish with 400. Getting the same result no matter brand of solid surface so something wrong with my technique. Maybe I am rushing it too much
@@shaggydogswerve Is your sanding pad flat and not wobbling? I think it is probably because you started with 120 grit. Try starting with 220 instead. Most solid surface is finished with 60 micron from the factory so sanding with 120 will introduce unwanted scratches to the material. I have no reason to believe that sandpaper wouldn't work but I have never tried it before. You should be able to get a nice matte finish using only 220 and gray scothbrite. What brand and color or you using?
polish - my non-descript gray Corian is in great condition but I'd like it to be shiny. Don't want to have to replace it to stay competitive in my market
If you sand to a minimum of 600 grit followed by a gray or white scotchbrite, it will make it shiny. If you want a true polish like a car you will have to sand to at least 1000 grit and then use a polishing compound with polisher.
I have a black corian countertop and it has scratches. It needs to be sanded and then polished. I want your help on what sandpapers, buffing pads and polishing creams to use. Can I send you a photo of the corian? Thank you
Thank you so much. Learned A LOT! 👏🏻👏🏻 1 question: I understand the 220 and the Maroon scotchbrite. For a factory finished Corian, should I start sanding with anything lower than 220? Like 150 and then up to 220? Or just start immediately with 220? Thanks again. Much appreciated! 🙏🏻
So, if I want corian matte finish, I should just stick with your part 1 video, use 220 grit, buff with maroon. But, after buffing with maroon, would I use perfect finish, as you show in video? Also, any other alternative for perfect finish? I can’t seem to find that and scotch brite website not helpful.
That is correct. Don't even use the Perfect Finish. That is what Staron recommends but it is not really needed. Just use the Maroon ScotchBrite with a little water and it will be a matte finish. The link for the Maroon Scotchbrite is in the description.
Hi, I have a off white solid surface countertop that I want to take out small scratches and end up with a matte finish. I dont want the shiny look. What grit scotch brite and sandpapers would I use. Thank you
Use 220 grit and see what gloss you're left with after wiping off with a wet cloth. If it's too flat then sand again with 400 grit and see how you like that, etc...
okay...after you sand it to remove any blemishes/scratches, do you have to polish it again? I have yet to work on Corian but after doing a little research it looks as if it will shine and have the same glossy look even after sanding.
@@AndyGraves Many thanks for the info; no sanding problems because I also have to spray the support and completely paint the broken object (an obsidian base) which will be glued with the "Corian Joint adhesive" glue.
Hey andy. Is step 1 necessary? I have no scratches or damage on the corian counter. Its has a matte finish but was never polished. Can i start with step 2 right away.
Fantastic videos, thank you so much for the easy to follow. Question about the high gloss procedure. If I sand to say 800 or 1000 for a high gloss, do I still need to use each of the buffing pads in sequence (maroon to grey to white etc...) - or am I just overworking the project? Can I jump ahead in the sequence to say a white or a green?
I would just go straight to polishing with the buffer and rubbing compound. This was following the fabrication manual procedures and I think it's a bit over kill.
i have a black solid surface countertop, "ghost"stains appeared around the sink only, nowhere else, I do not have hard water. dont understand what caused it. Could i just sand It away, with the appropriate blending into the unstained counter, and then polish all surfaces?
Before you do that I would try a hard water remover in a small spot. I have placed a paper towel over the hard water stains and put a little LimeAway or Vinagar on the paper Towel. Let it sit there for a couple minutes and clean off. Make sure it doesn't hurt the material. This should remove the hard water leaving only the countertop material. Try at your own risk.
Thanks, I made a rookie mistake as irs my first time using a solid surface counter, I got distracted and never double checked my measurements and cut it short 🤬also I cut it with the router when I think I could have used an 80t skill saw blade? I am making a kind of jig /bench up with a profile the same height as the material which should help make it easier for joining them together. How strong will the joint be generally?
I am having trouble finding the scotch brite discs in 5". I am looking for the white or light grey. Do you know where I can but them? Also will auto body sanding discs P600 (wet or dry) work?
You don't even need to use Scotchbrite disks. Just wet sand down to the smooth finish you want starting with 220 or 400 grit (depending on how badly the countertop is scratched). If you want more of a matte/flat look then don't polish with the rubbing compound and polishing compound as described in part 2 of the video.
@@rickrudd The slide before he begins to sand shows various grits down to 1000. It really depends on how deep the scratches are that you're trying to remove and how glossy you want the finish to be. My Corian counters aren't that scratched, so I haven't sanded them yet, just compounded them with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and polished with Meguiar's Ultimate polish. I do it every two years or so.
I am going to take out my corian counter top and put it in another house. So I will have to cut it. Can I seal the seams so they can not be seen? If so how would I do it?
My countertop was burnt when a towel I placed under a warming pan I used for a holiday dinner party caught fire. Just the a rectangle about "10" z 15" was affected. Could I use this same technique? Do you know anyone professionally who would repair this?
okay...after you sand it to remove any blemishes/scratches, do you have to polish it again? I have yet to work on Corian but after doing a little research it looks as if it will shine and have the same glossy look even after sanding.
I purchased a used one as the piece is a bit pricey, but the machine ruclips.net/user/postUgkxG6fbm3cHBd7CNTjk5D-dwYe9c9tCB9ZN has surpassed my expectations. We sand small parts by hand often, sized around 1"x1/2," and specifically look for a piece that's designed to be vertical. The motor has plenty of torque and great speed settings. The only inconvenience I had is that the disk measures 5" where we trim 6" stick-and-sand disks down easily by mounting it then cutting with a box cutter.
This is part 1 of a two part series. The finer the grit sand paper, the shinier it will become. Most solid surface is finished to a matte finish. Part 2 shows they polishing process and that will really make the material shine.
Great video. But I am confused on about the 3M products. If I sand it with 1000 grit or finer , then which 3M products do I need in order to get the glossy result? There are 3M rubbing compound, 3M machine polish compound and 3M ultra polish compound. Do I need to use them all? Or use either one of them? Thanks again!
3m changes their products so we typically just purchase a 3m rubbing compound and polishing compound. If you sand to 1000 grit sandpaper the top will get really shiny. This video is for a matte or satin finish. Check out Part 2 - ruclips.net/video/2WmVQwkgcMk/видео.html which shows how to polish.
Hmmmm..... you show the N95 dust mask as part of the "equipment you need" and then don't wear one while you're sanding in the video... (yes, I know your sander has a vacuum attachment so it's not as critical, but still....)
@@AndyGraves Nah, just pointing out the slide early in your video that shows safety glasses, ear plugs, and an N95 dust mask as safety equipment that should be used. Most of your viewers don't have an air powered sander with a vacuum attachment to keep most of the sanding dust from going airborne . In my case I have a battery powered sander and would probably wear the mask, I would also wet sand which also does cut down on any airborne dust.
@@simul8guy75 Reading your comment, you seem like a really smart person. So, I'm going to assume you know exactly why that slide is in the video. It's the same reason the Chain Saw manual says, "Do not touch moving blade with your hands." Every once in a while I get a hall monitor that points out some safety thing that I didn't do while I'm shooting a video. It used to drive me crazy and now I just know that there is always one safety captain in the group. Hope the video helped you out.
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Thanks for watching. If you have any ideas or questions please comment. Let me know if you have any ideas for future videos.
Hi Andy... Thank you for sharing your expertise with us. It's very generous of you and so helpful! Just curious if you have any videos on buffing out and polishing the front/side EDGES of corian? (My corian countertop has a 45 degree beveled edge.)
You're welcome.
I don't have a video of that but you are basically going to have to sand it by hand.
If it's matte finish, sand up to 320 and then maroon scotchbrite.
If it's polished sand up to 600 and then use polishing compound.
@@AndyGraves Thanks Andy! As I'm buffing (restoring) my Corian countertops I realized pretty much the same thing... I would need to do the edges by hand. So I wrapped my (wet) sandpaper around a little block of maple wood, using successive grits, and it is preserving the angles quite nicely. Going great. Just slow. Thanks for confirming! :)
@Art4Wrk Yeah, it's a slow process. I have to sand for days sometimes.
These videos are great! Thanks for the tutorials and gear links. What vacuum system do you use? What filters and how often do you change them out?
We just use regular filters for a shop vac. You can use hepa filter but we don't. We blow them out as they get clogged. They do get clogged often.
Which would be better to use the trizact or the auto body (wet or dry) sanding discs?
What micron sizes (if I use trizact)? How many of each sheet will I need?
I have 24 linear feet of countertop. It has some surface scratches, nothing deep. I am looking to do a semi-gloss finish. It's a dark color. Mostly black with light colored specks.
Might you have a recommendation for a less expensive Random Orbital Sander for a homeowner who just needs to remove scratches from their (my!) countertop once every few years? Nearly $300 for the Bosch ROS is a lot for a tool that will barely get used. But if that's what it takes, then I'm saving money over buying something cheaper like a sub-$100 5"-incher from Makita or Dewalt that won't end up doing what I need.
Thanks for any advise you can give, and *many* thanks for this series of videos.
Get the Bauer random orbit sander from Harbor Freight. We use those sometimes and they work good. Only problem is there is no dust collection.
@@AndyGraves Thanks for your super fast answer. I definitely want something that can hook up to my shop vac. Since the Bauer you mentioned from HF is 5", I guess they're ok to use. I'll find one that will hook up to my 1.25" shop vac hose, and as long as it's similarly spec'd, I guess it should be ok to use. Probably anything I get will make it look better than it currently does!
Nice job
Thank you
Nice video. Thanks for sharing. I'm sanding out some deep marks in a vanity corian countertop. What grit sandpaper should I use?
Start with 150 and see if it will remove the scratch. If not, move to 120 grit . After the scratch is removed work your way back through dinner grid until you match the surrounding shine.
@@AndyGraves I'm on my way to pick those up now. I will try that. Thank you, Sir
Any idea please the rpm of the sander? I am using a Festool rotex 150 on random orbit, finishing to 400 grit (no polishing compound) and always have dull patches/blotches which annoys the crap out of me. Have tried white scotchbrite in the past with same result. Wondering if my rpm's are too fast or whether I should finish with scotchbrite plus polishing compound. Just want a standard matt/satin finish. Thanks!
Use the Festool at full speed. The reason for the dull spots could be a few things. Make sure you use aluminum oxide or micron sandpaper. Make sure you blow out the sander between each grit thoroughly. Clean the countertop with water between each grit. Keep the sander flat while sanding and start the sander on the material.
Dull spots are typically due to swirl marks left behind from previous grits.
Hope that helps
@@AndyGraves Thanks for the reply, I pretty much do all that, using Festool Granat sandpaper, clean with metho & water between grits, use dust extraction. Start with 120, 180, 240 then finish with 400. Getting the same result no matter brand of solid surface so something wrong with my technique. Maybe I am rushing it too much
@@shaggydogswerve Is your sanding pad flat and not wobbling? I think it is probably because you started with 120 grit. Try starting with 220 instead. Most solid surface is finished with 60 micron from the factory so sanding with 120 will introduce unwanted scratches to the material.
I have no reason to believe that sandpaper wouldn't work but I have never tried it before. You should be able to get a nice matte finish using only 220 and gray scothbrite.
What brand and color or you using?
@@AndyGraves start the sander on the material?... why?
also how much pressure do you apply to sander?
What are the progressive grits used with the sandpaper and Scotch-brite?
What type of finish do you want, matte, satin or polish?
polish - my non-descript gray Corian is in great condition but I'd like it to be shiny. Don't want to have to replace it to stay competitive in my market
If you sand to a minimum of 600 grit followed by a gray or white scotchbrite, it will make it shiny. If you want a true polish like a car you will have to sand to at least 1000 grit and then use a polishing compound with polisher.
I have a black corian countertop and it has scratches. It needs to be sanded and then polished. I want your help on what sandpapers, buffing pads and polishing creams to use. Can I send you a photo of the corian? Thank you
This process in the video will work on black Corian.
Οκ thank you !
Good morning
I want to stucco-fill some bumps before I rub and polish the kitchen counter. With what material? Can you help me ?
Explain further, I don't understand what you need.
@@AndyGraves I want to fill some holes on a black corian counter and I don't know what material to use
Thank you so much. Learned A LOT! 👏🏻👏🏻
1 question: I understand the 220 and the Maroon scotchbrite. For a factory finished Corian, should I start sanding with anything lower than 220? Like 150 and then up to 220? Or just start immediately with 220?
Thanks again. Much appreciated! 🙏🏻
Try the 220 first. Then you won't have to sand it 150 scratches.
@@AndyGraves Thanks for the feedback. I’ll give it a try.
So, if I want corian matte finish, I should just stick with your part 1 video, use 220 grit, buff with maroon. But, after buffing with maroon, would I use perfect finish, as you show in video? Also, any other alternative for perfect finish? I can’t seem to find that and scotch brite website not helpful.
That is correct. Don't even use the Perfect Finish. That is what Staron recommends but it is not really needed. Just use the Maroon ScotchBrite with a little water and it will be a matte finish. The link for the Maroon Scotchbrite is in the description.
@@countertopsexplained5145 Great. Appreciate the good help.
I am glad it worked out.
Hi, I have a off white solid surface countertop that I want to take out small scratches and end up with a matte finish. I dont want the shiny look. What grit scotch brite and sandpapers would I use. Thank you
Use 220 grit and see what gloss you're left with after wiping off with a wet cloth. If it's too flat then sand again with 400 grit and see how you like that, etc...
So is this ready to be installed? No clear coating of any sort?
Correct, do not spray a clearcoat onto solid surface.
@@AndyGraves Thanks much!
Is this process the same on HiMac counters?
Yes
I want to finish my corian countertops. Is it possible to burn them/ruin them if the buffing tool has too high of an OPM/RPM?
If they get burned you just resand. Start slow, keep it moving and it will be totally fine.
Thank you!!
What is a good polish to seal the Corian after I sand ?
Absolutely nothing. Do not try to seal Corian. Just buff with the Scotchbrite until you get the finish you desire.
okay...after you sand it to remove any blemishes/scratches, do you have to polish it again? I have yet to work on Corian but after doing a little research it looks as if it will shine and have the same glossy look even after sanding.
After you sand it, you will have to repolish it so it matches the surrounding finish.
I’m preparing black Corion. I want it to have a glassy finish. Is 1000 grit as high as I need to go before polishing?
That should work but you have to make sure all the scratches from the previous grits are gone before polishing.
Great video, thank you. I wonder if I can use my mouse sander. I have all the sanding pads, plus all of the polishing things for it already.
It needs to be a random orbit sander to eliminate the swirl marks. A vibrating sander will leave marks that you can see.
@@AndyGraves Thank you.
Would this same procedure work on Bushboard encore. It is an acrylic worktop.
Can Corian glue be painted after smoothing? I need to do it.
Corian and the glue can be painted but you'll need to sand it with 220 grit sandpaper.
@@AndyGraves Many thanks for the info; no sanding problems because I also have to spray the support and completely paint the broken object (an obsidian base) which will be glued with the "Corian Joint adhesive" glue.
Hey andy. Is step 1 necessary? I have no scratches or damage on the corian counter. Its has a matte finish but was never polished. Can i start with step 2 right away.
If the countertop was a matte finish it will need to be sanded to at least 400 grit before it can be polished.
hi i hv white countertop solid type. can i use the same method to get it polish?
Yes you can.
how about a larger diameter sander, like larger than 7 inches. These small ones will take quite a long time for large countertops.
MySchizo Buddy - yes that's possible but it needs to be random orbit. Surecare makes a big sander as well.
MySchizo Buddy 0
Fantastic videos, thank you so much for the easy to follow. Question about the high gloss procedure. If I sand to say 800 or 1000 for a high gloss, do I still need to use each of the buffing pads in sequence (maroon to grey to white etc...) - or am I just overworking the project? Can I jump ahead in the sequence to say a white or a green?
I would just go straight to polishing with the buffer and rubbing compound. This was following the fabrication manual procedures and I think it's a bit over kill.
i have a black solid surface countertop, "ghost"stains appeared around the sink only, nowhere else, I do not have hard water. dont understand what caused it. Could i just sand It away, with the appropriate blending into the unstained counter, and then polish all surfaces?
Before you do that I would try a hard water remover in a small spot. I have placed a paper towel over the hard water stains and put a little LimeAway or Vinagar on the paper Towel. Let it sit there for a couple minutes and clean off. Make sure it doesn't hurt the material. This should remove the hard water leaving only the countertop material. Try at your own risk.
If I use the Trizact film sanding discs, what sizes (micron) and how many of each size will I need to do a finish that is semi-gloss?
Depends on the size of the project.
Can any router bit be used to join the two pieces or is there a specific one?
I use a single flute, 3/8" Diameter router bit. Just get a good one that is nice and sharp.
Thanks, I made a rookie mistake as irs my first time using a solid surface counter, I got distracted and never double checked my measurements and cut it short 🤬also I cut it with the router when I think I could have used an 80t skill saw blade?
I am making a kind of jig /bench up with a profile the same height as the material which should help make it easier for joining them together.
How strong will the joint be generally?
Try cutting a seam like this video ruclips.net/video/nl4p48VFTY8/видео.html . I think it will save you a lot of time.
I am having trouble finding the scotch brite discs in 5". I am looking for the white or light grey. Do you know where I can but them? Also will auto body sanding discs P600 (wet or dry) work?
No. Yes.
If I can't find the scotch brite in 5" discs, what do you suggest I use?
brian lentz just buy the squares from auto body and cut circular or use as is
You don't even need to use Scotchbrite disks. Just wet sand down to the smooth finish you want starting with 220 or 400 grit (depending on how badly the countertop is scratched). If you want more of a matte/flat look then don't polish with the rubbing compound and polishing compound as described in part 2 of the video.
It would be helpful to show clearly in the video the grades of PGRADE or Mircon that is being used in each step.
Sounds like a good idea.
@@AndyGraves well...can you elaborate? Which grades did you use?
@@rickrudd The slide before he begins to sand shows various grits down to 1000. It really depends on how deep the scratches are that you're trying to remove and how glossy you want the finish to be. My Corian counters aren't that scratched, so I haven't sanded them yet, just compounded them with Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and polished with Meguiar's Ultimate polish. I do it every two years or so.
hello can you tell me what kind of sander and what is the abrasive stuff you are using. Regards
Hello Karl, at the be beginning of the video I show two sander options as well as the exact sandpaper to use. Hope that helps, Andy
I am going to take out my corian counter top and put it in another house. So I will have to cut it. Can I seal the seams so they can not be seen? If so how would I do it?
cooldog60 There is a video on how to cut a seam. It shows step by step instructions.
My countertop was burnt when a towel I placed under a warming pan I used for a holiday dinner party caught fire. Just the a rectangle about "10" z 15" was affected. Could I use this same technique? Do you know anyone professionally who would repair this?
Yes, this process will work. Don't make it to shiny.
Is this solid surface Granite or composite laminate ? Thanks
It's solid surface material which is an acrylic material. It's man made.
Hello what grit sand paper should I use
Matte, satin or polish?
Matte for corion
And should I use the red schost pads
Sand up to 220 and a maroon as scotchbrite. This will get you a matte finish with most colors.
Andy Graves okay so I can use lower than 220 and I can’t find that finish u used so I bought hopes top counter polish will that do the job
being an SS (Solid Surface), will it not be glossy throughout?
I am not sure what you mean. It will be shiny where you polish it.
okay...after you sand it to remove any blemishes/scratches, do you have to polish it again? I have yet to work on Corian but after doing a little research it looks as if it will shine and have the same glossy look even after sanding.
Hi, Where can i buy the scotch brites, please i need urgently
You can buy scotchbrite at the local hardware store.
hi thank you for care i want know what is name this polish and when can find in Egypt im form Egypt
Ashraf Bakr - it's a 3M polishing compound. You can buy it on Amazon.
I purchased a used one as the piece is a bit pricey, but the machine ruclips.net/user/postUgkxG6fbm3cHBd7CNTjk5D-dwYe9c9tCB9ZN has surpassed my expectations. We sand small parts by hand often, sized around 1"x1/2," and specifically look for a piece that's designed to be vertical. The motor has plenty of torque and great speed settings. The only inconvenience I had is that the disk measures 5" where we trim 6" stick-and-sand disks down easily by mounting it then cutting with a box cutter.
Awesome, Hope everything worked out good.
Shouldn't it be shiny or something?
This is part 1 of a two part series. The finer the grit sand paper, the shinier it will become. Most solid surface is finished to a matte finish. Part 2 shows they polishing process and that will really make the material shine.
I'm not sure I saw a difference before/after..?
The factory finish had linear lines that have to be removed through these sanding steps even though the shine might be the same.
i want know what is powder
Hello, i am not sure what you mean.
Great video. But I am confused on about the 3M products. If I sand it with 1000 grit or finer , then which 3M products do I need in order to get the glossy result? There are 3M rubbing compound, 3M machine polish compound and 3M ultra polish compound. Do I need to use them all? Or use either one of them? Thanks again!
3m changes their products so we typically just purchase a 3m rubbing compound and polishing compound. If you sand to 1000 grit sandpaper the top will get really shiny. This video is for a matte or satin finish. Check out Part 2 - ruclips.net/video/2WmVQwkgcMk/видео.html which shows how to polish.
Is that Edward Snowden?
Yes :)
hahahaha
Glad I’m not the only one that thought so , haha
Edit it.
Edit what?
@@AndyGraves I don't know, what was it about?
@johnnys8822 Rewatch it slower. It's a sanding video. The sander is in the video almost the entire video.
@@AndyGraves ok got .it, lots of sanding, and sanding and sanding, ,
Hmmmm..... you show the N95 dust mask as part of the "equipment you need" and then don't wear one while you're sanding in the video... (yes, I know your sander has a vacuum attachment so it's not as critical, but still....)
I'm not sure how to respond. Would you like me to remake the video?
@@AndyGraves Nah, just pointing out the slide early in your video that shows safety glasses, ear plugs, and an N95 dust mask as safety equipment that should be used. Most of your viewers don't have an air powered sander with a vacuum attachment to keep most of the sanding dust from going airborne . In my case I have a battery powered sander and would probably wear the mask, I would also wet sand which also does cut down on any airborne dust.
@@simul8guy75 Reading your comment, you seem like a really smart person. So, I'm going to assume you know exactly why that slide is in the video. It's the same reason the Chain Saw manual says, "Do not touch moving blade with your hands." Every once in a while I get a hall monitor that points out some safety thing that I didn't do while I'm shooting a video. It used to drive me crazy and now I just know that there is always one safety captain in the group. Hope the video helped you out.
@@AndyGraves Yeah, it's a safety disclaimer. I get it.
Oh no! You overlapped 20% once......and then almost 90% another time!! It’s ruined now. 😭
I can get a better finish with 120 240 360
OK
I stopped watching when I noticed it was going to say Samsung in the corner of the entire video.
Good, I only want to teach nice people how to sand. Samsung, the maker of the material, sponsored the video.