Thanks Blackie for another good video. I've been using coco wheats as my filler.( It's what I have on hand). Anyway to take the guess work out of how much filler to use, I use empty an empty 22 lr case and a 22 mag. case. For my 36 revolvers I use 20grs. blackpowder 1 22lr case with filler then my wad and ball. It ends up with the ball as close as you can get to the cylinder ( If I used a touch more of anything, the ball wouldn't seat deep enough to allow the cylinder to rotate.) For my 44 revolvers I use 30grs of blackpowder, an empty 22mag case of filler, the wad and then of course the ball. Turns out the same as my 36 loading, anymore of anything and the ball wouldn't seat deep enough for the cylinder to rotate. Just thought I'd share my process of loading and getting the ball as close as you can to the forcing cone and have the cylinder still rotate. The only thing I need to change is putting some handles on the 22lr and 22mag cases. Love your videos. I always learn something.
I switched from felt wads to vegetable wads (like you use with BP cartridge loading) a couple of years ago. I put the powder in, then filler (if needed), then the hard veg. wad. I then put a pea sized amount of BP lube over the wad with the ball on top. My gun's accuracy showed a noticeable increase and the hard wad scrapes the bore very clean. My gun barrel is no dirtier after 30-40 shots using this method than my modern revolvers/autos after that many shots. I was told that would be the case but I didn't believe it until I saw it for myself.
right on!!.. i found the same results with the balls i tumble lube with liquid alox..a felt wad..and a bore pre lubed with bore butter..i can shoot 50 + rounds with out cleaning as long as i wipe the face of the cyl after every full run to keep cyl drag down
Thanks Blackie, very important information. Years ago when I shot my Remington New Army, I remember putting in wads as well as greasing over all the cylinder chambers over each ball because I was afraid of a chain fire.
I have a brass Pietta .44 that I am getting ready to shoot for the first time. I have on order a steel frame Uberti, same caliber. Today, a gun shop owner was telling me how to load a percussion and I had understood before that its powder, wad, ball then capping. The owner said no, its powder, ball, then the wad. Now, he's the gun shop owner so I came back here to get it straight and it makes sense that its powder, wad, ball. I had read recently that you can leave the pistol loaded long term with "plain" wadding, no lubricant as the lube can ruin the powder. What bothers me is that either the owner is wrong or there are a bunch of people loading their CP pistols different ways. Blackie's way is what I had been reading, studying and planning for. Am I glad I came back here!!!! (PS, I can't find any percussion "experts" in my area, lots of muzzle loading folks but no revolvers)
THANKS BLACKIE, FAVORITE VIDEOS, I LOVE BP. I know I've mentioned an 11° forcing before but it made difference in accuracy. Also apon examination 2 of my black powder revolvers had no or almost no chamfer in the barrel. Zero on the cone. A simple fix. Also size and concentricity of the chambers. Also an easy fix. Neither of these issues will stop you from shooting but will very much make a more accurate pistol when corrected. 😆👍 11° chamfer on the forcing cone is optimal for lead ammo. 8° chamfer is for jacketed ammo/modern cartridge guns.
Can't thank you enough for this education!!just got my Uberi .36 remington navy.still working on the colt learning curve!I've found that pietta colts are kinda like AMF era Harleys,you will learn to work on them!!
I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I have over 2 decades of reloading and building/repairing/shooting firearms but I'm new to cap and ball, this is very good information i would not have thought off for a long time if at all.
This is better than wad prevents chain fire!!!!! The Gas Seal!!!! The wad is the gas seal I can see the logic there, because only 1 thing prevents chain fire proper ball size, forming the "Seal" with the PROPER BALL SIZE!!! Man, The Knowledge I have asked for, Old Timers at club spouting that is the way!! When I inquire as to why? It was like I was insulting "Just the way we were taught" We just do it so should you. Never sat well with me. Well if everyone was shooting themselves in the knee, just do it, NAH!!!
I have extensively tested wading VS no wadings years ago. I notice no difference in power or cleaning ability of using a wading or not. It is my understanding that the ball is supposed to clean the barrel some with each shot. When i have lubed the barrel, i get WAY more fouling. Each method i have ever used has its disadvantages and advantages. The method i use is the cheapest one. I load the powder, the ball and put one drop of oil (10w 40SAE motor oil) over the ball and rotate the cylinder to make sure it coats the edges. This method works the best for Colt revolvers. With Remington it has a tendency to cause a build up around the cylinder pin after awhile. Cutting groves in the cylinder pin helps allot on the Remington. You can also remove the cylinder and wipe off the cylinder pin every 12 to 18 shots. I have shot .454s in a .451 and after i fired 12 shots I noticed they get increasingly harder to load. I even broke the loading rod pin on the CVA Remington 1858. I see no reason to shoot .454s in the .451s. On some of the Colts and Remingtons you can remove a little metal with a dremel and get them to seat a little deeper for lower loads. it depends on the gun. I disagree about trying to load a ball as close to the end of a chamber as possible. I tested this long, long ago and found that it depends on the gun in most cases. For me it seems allowing the ball some travel distance before it hits the forcing cone allows the ball to stabilize. If your ball is very off center of your forcing cone that is a timing issue (a tiny amount is normal). I have never seen a BP revolver with perfect timing.
Blackie, I was told decades ago with a BP revolver the closer the ball was to the end of the cylinder the better the accuracy. In my Uberti 1862 Police 36 caliber C&B revolver I found that 22 gr of black with a 3/8 " wad with a round ball topped with Natural Lube does fantastic , usually giving 3 inch 5 shot groups at 25 yards. I use the grease over the ball as a bore lube and aid in bore fouling as you stated.
Thanks Blackie, now I know that I am doing the right thing by using lubed wads instead of bore butter, It's quicker and easier and doesn't make a gooey mess.
and as long as you run a lube patch down the bore first before shooting the fouling will be soft and accuracy is usually better..and a lot less mess than lube on top of the chambers
Hello from Lanett on the Hooch. Wanted to say Thank you. For all the work you put into your videos. I always send folks to your channel. You probably know and forgot more about B.P shooting than most. Your videos are done were they are easy to digest as well. Iv just gotten back into B.P. I had a Remington New Mod Army years ago and could of used your videos back then. It was fun but Lord what a mess. You damn sure right about there being a mess. I was so worried about chain fires? That I could of lubed a F150 with the over shot lube. I got where I just left the Remington in the gun cabinet and just shot my Hawken . I'm looking to get back into the sport again being better learned lol about ball size and such. Thanks again. From one Bamian to another watch out for them No Shoulders. They sure are moving now.
Enjoyed as always, and picked up anither nugget along the way. Ive always marked my rifle ramrod once I settle on a load, never thought to mark the pistol rammer 😉👍 Thanks again
I wasnt sure about the technical reasons for using a wad. All i knew was that wads nearly completely eliminate barrel leading, and cleaning the barrel much easier and less time consuming. I never use fillers, im not a wuss puss.
Great video lot of new people to BP need to know how to properly load a revolver might also add find a safety course near by state game Warden would know Hunter safety course it's a good idea know how to handle a firearm BP or standard ammo standard for today. But again thanks for the video great info for the new one.
Thank you for making this video Blackie!! This was the very subject of debate in a cap n’ ball group I belong to on Facebook. A well respected and experienced old timer was making the case against the use of filler basically saying how it has no effect on accuracy and that the “step up” from chamber to forcing cone was nil to effect accuracy. I disagreed. Now as new comer to this sport (I’ve only been using these for 6 years) I had no literature or accolades to back up my point, only my personal anecdotal experience. And my experience negated the old timers. I was originally getting 4.5” groups at 25 yards until I started using filler (cornmeal). When I started using filler I noticed my groups shrank down to 1.5” at 25 yards. So to co-sign on what Blackie is saying, YES, using a filler greatly increases accuracy. Also, load development is just as crucial for better accuracy as well.
@@buddybbuddyb3687 I’ve heard of people using Shake N’ Bake and they claim they get the same results. I’ve never tried it so I can’t say for sure. I’m very frugal and a 5pound container of cornmeal costs .99¢ so that’s the route I take. DO NOT USE FLOUR!! Or use anything fine like powder. You want something gritty. Cream of wheat or oatmeal is another popular filler as well.
When shooting and using a paper cartridge with ball or conical instead of lubing the front of a chamber can a lubed wad be used instead? Would it affect accuracy? Do you have a video on it? Love your videos thanks.
Blackie, first off i am new to black powder revolvers so excuse me if this is a dumb question. I have a Pietta 1858 new Army brass frame. Load chart says 12-15 grains, this leaves 2/3 empty chamber. I reached out to Pietta and was told it can be loaded to 20 grains. Well now we are up to half chamber empty, the ram does not reach deep enough to seat the ball against the powder. Can more than 1 wad be used or what would be the best solution to this issue. by the way i am using Pyrodex P, not wanting to fire it untill i am sure things are right.
then, if I correctly understood, from the rear to the front of the cylinder the paper nitrate cartridge must be: 1. BP, 2. filler powder (not lubed wad, but some vegetable powder), 3.lubed bullet. When it charge the cartridge , after the compressione,the bullet must be far from the barrel not more of 4 mm. Is it all correct?
this is prob a stupid question, but when u say cream of wheat, do u mean the cereal that gets cooked on the stove, kinda like grits??? or does it mean something else... I am very new to this. thank u
The dry felt wads I order from Taylors are thick-- they're just as long as they are wide. I cut them in two to make wads of the thickness most people are familiar with.
Another great video Blackie, so would I be on solid ground with 40-50 grains in my walker, lubed wad and no lube on front of cylinders and running a lubed patch down the barrel before shooting? I always learn something new from your videos. I'm new to black powder and I pay close attention to what you say as you have so much practical experience. BTW I have read that the walker arbor is cut short on the Uberti models and is part of the problem with the wedges getting beat up with powerful loads..is this true and is it also like that on the Army and Navy models too? Would you consider a video talking about that? Sorry for the long comment!
the load sound good..go up and down a few grains at a time till ya find the sweet spot for accuracy..as to the wedge i have found many replica with a dead soft wedge..i just got a navy colt made by colt a re issue..and in less than 30 rounds the wedge was a total wreck..with a mild load..i replaced and now have no problem with it
[Open Question(s)] Do anyone know where I can find 1/4" Black Wool(stiff if possible), AND does anyone know of a source of Willow Charcoal? I used to have some chickens, and the chickens acted like they could not see black seeds, so I thought Black wads may be safer for the ecosystem, if I am out in the field. Likewise, I make my own powder when I can find the ingredients. Lately, I can not find anyone who is still selling willow charcoal. As always Blackie, excellent video! Thumbs Up!
wool is often used because it will not catch fire from the firing..what ever material you choose be sure to run some controlled test to be sure it will not cause a fire
Also the ATF has stated that making black powder is manufacturing explosives and is regulated under the 1935 NFA. so without a manufacturer's FFL you could be prosecuted for making your own.
@@maxheadroom7649 I can't answer that, I only know that in the state I live in it can be made as long as it is being made as a propellant and (obviously) not as an explosive. I only make 100 gr at a time, so if they do get me, it will not be for making a lot at a time. Thanks for the heads up, but who can afford to buy it anymore?
Was curious, is there an issue using FF vs FFF in the revolvers? I have dont it many times when u ran out of FFF but will it actually hurt anything? Thanks
my 1860 has large chambers and i can shoot 40gr with a 454 and no wad..i try to find what load the gun shoots best with..often its near the top of the load i can put in..
the big issue is will it burn and will it be burning when it land on the ground..i have made wax coated leather wads with a punch and cardboard before..just do a test first and be sure your not going to start a forest fire
@@BLACKIETHOMAS Thank you sir, was on the fence for years about getting into cap and ball but watching your vids pushed me into getting a 1858 remengton and the wife just bought me a 1851 colt in brass, both 44 cal.
![Tee Grizzley - Detroit (Feat. 42 Dugg) [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/aeKfTtt0x14/mqdefault.jpg)
Great vid. Very informative. Thank you.
Thanks Blackie for another good video. I've been using coco wheats as my filler.( It's what I have on hand). Anyway to take the guess work out of how much filler to use, I use empty an empty 22 lr case and a 22 mag. case. For my 36 revolvers I use 20grs. blackpowder 1 22lr case with filler then my wad and ball. It ends up with the ball as close as you can get to the cylinder ( If I used a touch more of anything, the ball wouldn't seat deep enough to allow the cylinder to rotate.) For my 44 revolvers I use 30grs of blackpowder, an empty 22mag case of filler, the wad and then of course the ball. Turns out the same as my 36 loading, anymore of anything and the ball wouldn't seat deep enough for the cylinder to rotate. Just thought I'd share my process of loading and getting the ball as close as you can to the forcing cone and have the cylinder still rotate. The only thing I need to change is putting some handles on the 22lr and 22mag cases. Love your videos. I always learn something.
I switched from felt wads to vegetable wads (like you use with BP cartridge loading) a couple of years ago. I put the powder in, then filler (if needed), then the hard veg. wad. I then put a pea sized amount of BP lube over the wad with the ball on top. My gun's accuracy showed a noticeable increase and the hard wad scrapes the bore very clean. My gun barrel is no dirtier after 30-40 shots using this method than my modern revolvers/autos after that many shots. I was told that would be the case but I didn't believe it until I saw it for myself.
right on!!.. i found the same results with the balls i tumble lube with liquid alox..a felt wad..and a bore pre lubed with bore butter..i can shoot 50 + rounds with out cleaning as long as i wipe the face of the cyl after every full run to keep cyl drag down
Thanks Blackie, very important information. Years ago when I shot my Remington New Army, I remember putting in wads as well as greasing over all the cylinder chambers over each ball because I was afraid of a chain fire.
When a properly sized ball is rammed into the cylinder, isn't it creating a seal to prevent chain firing?
@@slideglide9418 Yes. Grease and wads are for lubrication and keeping burned powder from getting hard.
@@slideglide9418That's what Blackie just said. I will try to find some .454 next time instead of my .451
Great tutorial. Thanx. WDE
I've read GUNS of the OLD WEST for years. You've educated me more than all the reading of the magazine's articles. THKS!
I have a brass Pietta .44 that I am getting ready to shoot for the first time. I have on order a steel frame Uberti, same caliber. Today, a gun shop owner was telling me how to load a percussion and I had understood before that its powder, wad, ball then capping. The owner said no, its powder, ball, then the wad. Now, he's the gun shop owner so I came back here to get it straight and it makes sense that its powder, wad, ball. I had read recently that you can leave the pistol loaded long term with "plain" wadding, no lubricant as the lube can ruin the powder. What bothers me is that either the owner is wrong or there are a bunch of people loading their CP pistols different ways. Blackie's way is what I had been reading, studying and planning for. Am I glad I came back here!!!! (PS, I can't find any percussion "experts" in my area, lots of muzzle loading folks but no revolvers)
THANKS BLACKIE, FAVORITE VIDEOS, I LOVE BP.
I know I've mentioned an 11° forcing before but it made difference in accuracy. Also apon examination 2 of my black powder revolvers had no or almost no chamfer in the barrel. Zero on the cone. A simple fix. Also size and concentricity of the chambers. Also an easy fix. Neither of these issues will stop you from shooting but will very much make a more accurate pistol when corrected. 😆👍
11° chamfer on the forcing cone is optimal for lead ammo. 8° chamfer is for jacketed ammo/modern cartridge guns.
it does help groups to have a forceing cone tapered and polished as well as the crown at the muzzle
Can't thank you enough for this education!!just got my Uberi .36 remington navy.still working on the colt learning curve!I've found that pietta colts are kinda like AMF era Harleys,you will learn to work on them!!
Glad to help
You've just gained another subscriber. Excellent video!
Took me a week to get to this video and I am glad I did not miss it. Another great job Blackie.
No worries
I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge. I have over 2 decades of reloading and building/repairing/shooting firearms but I'm new to cap and ball, this is very good information i would not have thought off for a long time if at all.
Cardinal and jays are "telling the mail". Good info!
I have shot a lot of modern firearms but I am fairly new to black powder just started a few years ago and your vids are very helpful Thank You
my pleasure
This is better than wad prevents chain fire!!!!! The Gas Seal!!!! The wad is the gas seal I can see the logic there, because only 1 thing prevents chain fire proper ball size, forming the "Seal" with the PROPER BALL SIZE!!! Man, The Knowledge I have asked for, Old Timers at club spouting that is the way!! When I inquire as to why? It was like I was insulting "Just the way we were taught" We just do it so should you. Never sat well with me. Well if everyone was shooting themselves in the knee, just do it, NAH!!!
Thank you so much for this video. Wise words of wads and lube.
I needed that.
I have extensively tested wading VS no wadings years ago. I notice no difference in power or cleaning ability of using a wading or not. It is my understanding that the ball is supposed to clean the barrel some with each shot. When i have lubed the barrel, i get WAY more fouling.
Each method i have ever used has its disadvantages and advantages. The method i use is the cheapest one. I load the powder, the ball and put one drop of oil (10w 40SAE motor oil) over the ball and rotate the cylinder to make sure it coats the edges. This method works the best for Colt revolvers. With Remington it has a tendency to cause a build up around the cylinder pin after awhile. Cutting groves in the cylinder pin helps allot on the Remington. You can also remove the cylinder and wipe off the cylinder pin every 12 to 18 shots.
I have shot .454s in a .451 and after i fired 12 shots I noticed they get increasingly harder to load. I even broke the loading rod pin on the CVA Remington 1858. I see no reason to shoot .454s in the .451s.
On some of the Colts and Remingtons you can remove a little metal with a dremel and get them to seat a little deeper for lower loads. it depends on the gun.
I disagree about trying to load a ball as close to the end of a chamber as possible. I tested this long, long ago and found that it depends on the gun in most cases. For me it seems allowing the ball some travel distance before it hits the forcing cone allows the ball to stabilize. If your ball is very off center of your forcing cone that is a timing issue (a tiny amount is normal). I have never seen a BP revolver with perfect timing.
instablaster...
Blackie, I was told decades ago with a BP revolver the closer the ball was to the end of the cylinder the better the accuracy. In my Uberti 1862 Police 36 caliber C&B revolver I found that 22 gr of black with a 3/8 " wad with a round ball topped with Natural Lube does fantastic , usually giving 3 inch 5 shot groups at 25 yards. I use the grease over the ball as a bore lube and aid in bore fouling as you stated.
Blackie, I enjoy watching your videos while I'm on the toilet.
Shitty thing to say
Blackie... That there drawin is art... Ought to be in a museum some place... ITS BEAUTIFUL! Lol
lol oh man ya drunk again ..lol
Thanks Blackie, now I know that I am doing the right thing by using lubed wads instead of bore butter, It's quicker and easier and doesn't make a gooey mess.
and as long as you run a lube patch down the bore first before shooting the fouling will be soft and accuracy is usually better..and a lot less mess than lube on top of the chambers
Dang Capt. Blackie, Thats the best discription of fouling I've ever heard. B.K.
glad you enjoyed it
Hello from Lanett on the Hooch. Wanted to say Thank you. For all the work you put into your videos. I always send folks to your channel. You probably know and forgot more about B.P shooting than most. Your videos are done were they are easy to digest as well. Iv just gotten back into B.P. I had a Remington New Mod Army years ago and could of used your videos back then. It was fun but Lord what a mess. You damn sure right about there being a mess. I was so worried about chain fires? That I could of lubed a F150 with the over shot lube. I got where I just left the Remington in the gun cabinet and just shot my Hawken . I'm looking to get back into the sport again being better learned lol about ball size and such. Thanks again. From one Bamian to another watch out for them No Shoulders. They sure are moving now.
thanks and safe journeys to you
Enjoyed as always, and picked up anither nugget along the way. Ive always marked my rifle ramrod once I settle on a load, never thought to mark the pistol rammer 😉👍
Thanks again
That was a good idea for beginners like me to percussion revolvers.
Thank you for the great information
I wasnt sure about the technical reasons for using a wad. All i knew was that wads nearly completely eliminate barrel leading, and cleaning the barrel much easier and less time consuming. I never use fillers, im not a wuss puss.
Great video lot of new people to BP need to know how to properly load a revolver might also add find a safety course near by state game Warden would know Hunter safety course it's a good idea know how to handle a firearm BP or standard ammo standard for today. But again thanks for the video great info for the new one.
You should have Merch. I want a Shamans forge bush craft t shirt 👍🏻
i might look into that..
BLACKIE THOMAS I also received my stainless steel nipples for my Remington New Army. Thanks for the advice 👍🏻🙏🏻
Thank you for making this video Blackie!!
This was the very subject of debate in a cap n’ ball group I belong to on Facebook. A well respected and experienced old timer was making the case against the use of filler basically saying how it has no effect on accuracy and that the “step up” from chamber to forcing cone was nil to effect accuracy. I disagreed. Now as new comer to this sport (I’ve only been using these for 6 years) I had no literature or accolades to back up my point, only my personal anecdotal experience. And my experience negated the old timers. I was originally getting 4.5” groups at 25 yards until I started using filler (cornmeal). When I started using filler I noticed my groups shrank down to 1.5” at 25 yards.
So to co-sign on what Blackie is saying, YES, using a filler greatly increases accuracy. Also, load development is just as crucial for better accuracy as well.
I'm an O'le timer quess, 60, still run'n stronge ,but new at bleck pudder. I'll give the the filler a try. How about shake'n bake.
@@buddybbuddyb3687 I’ve heard of people using Shake N’ Bake and they claim they get the same results. I’ve never tried it so I can’t say for sure. I’m very frugal and a 5pound container of cornmeal costs .99¢ so that’s the route I take. DO NOT USE FLOUR!! Or use anything fine like powder. You want something gritty. Cream of wheat or oatmeal is another popular filler as well.
@@shibblesshalzabot6320 Thanks you
@@buddybbuddyb3687 you’re welcomes
Thanks again Blackie! ATB Sam Adler
You bet
Thanks, Blackie. Have you considered doing a live stream once a week or once a month...etc?
Possibly! i have had quite a few friend push me in that direction.. i will look into it
Thanks just what I was looking for
When shooting and using a paper cartridge with ball or conical instead of lubing the front of a chamber can a lubed wad be used instead? Would it affect accuracy? Do you have a video on it?
Love your videos thanks.
590 likes 0 dislikes says alot bout this man.
Blackie, first off i am new to black powder revolvers so excuse me if this is a dumb question. I have a Pietta 1858 new Army brass frame. Load chart says 12-15 grains, this leaves 2/3 empty chamber. I reached out to Pietta and was told it can be loaded to 20 grains. Well now we are up to half chamber empty, the ram does not reach deep enough to seat the ball against the powder. Can more than 1 wad be used or what would be the best solution to this issue. by the way i am using Pyrodex P, not wanting to fire it untill i am sure things are right.
Good explanation!
The word your looking for is Obturate... not orbitrate.
lol thanks..at my age i hit it as close as i can..
You have a succinct easy to follow teaching style. I learnt a lot from this sir.
Glad to hear that
Tanks too blackie
then, if I correctly understood, from the rear to the front of the cylinder the paper nitrate cartridge must be: 1. BP, 2. filler powder (not lubed wad, but some vegetable powder), 3.lubed bullet. When it charge the cartridge , after the compressione,the bullet must be far from the barrel not more of 4 mm. Is it all correct?
sounds about right
Thanks blackie
Thanks man good stuff 👍
No problem 👍
What does happen to the cream of wheat filler …does it burn or shoot out … does it cause more fouling ?
In loading for a trapdoor rifle, I am using bullets that have SPG lube. Can I also use a Beeswax Disk in addition to the Wad or is too much lube?
Damn those birds are loud
yep love is in the air..lol
this is prob a stupid question, but when u say cream of wheat, do u mean the cereal that gets cooked on the stove, kinda like grits??? or does it mean something else... I am very new to this. thank u
Yes, cereal.
Plan your work and work your plan
I never use a filler. With my bad aim it doesn't matter.
Would it be ok on my Walker to use a wad, some filler, and another wad to use 20 grains or less in a 60 grain chamber?
you could but i feel filler would do better..or maybe powder wad filler to top of chamber compress add ball
The dry felt wads I order from Taylors are thick-- they're just as long as they are wide. I cut them in two to make wads of the thickness most people are familiar with.
Another great video Blackie, so would I be on solid ground with 40-50 grains in my walker, lubed wad and no lube on front of cylinders and running a lubed patch down the barrel before shooting? I always learn something new from your videos. I'm new to black powder and I pay close attention to what you say as you have so much practical experience. BTW I have read that the walker arbor is cut short on the Uberti models and is part of the problem with the wedges getting beat up with powerful loads..is this true and is it also like that on the Army and Navy models too? Would you consider a video talking about that? Sorry for the long comment!
the load sound good..go up and down a few grains at a time till ya find the sweet spot for accuracy..as to the wedge i have found many replica with a dead soft wedge..i just got a navy colt made by colt a re issue..and in less than 30 rounds the wedge was a total wreck..with a mild load..i replaced and now have no problem with it
@@BLACKIETHOMAS Do you think the soft wedge issue is a heat treating issue or a poor metal issue?
Oh, wads n fillers for shooting.
I thought he was gonna talk about politics.
👍👍
[Open Question(s)] Do anyone know where I can find 1/4" Black Wool(stiff if possible), AND does anyone know of a source of Willow Charcoal? I used to have some chickens, and the chickens acted like they could not see black seeds, so I thought Black wads may be safer for the ecosystem, if I am out in the field. Likewise, I make my own powder when I can find the ingredients. Lately, I can not find anyone who is still selling willow charcoal. As always Blackie, excellent video! Thumbs Up!
have you thought of wax coated leather as a sub for the wool
wool is often used because it will not catch fire from the firing..what ever material you choose be sure to run some controlled test to be sure it will not cause a fire
You can find 1/4 inch wool felt online at Duro-Felt or you can buy it at HobbyLobby when they open back up
Also the ATF has stated that making black powder is manufacturing explosives and is regulated under the 1935 NFA. so without a manufacturer's FFL you could be prosecuted for making your own.
@@maxheadroom7649 I can't answer that, I only know that in the state I live in it can be made as long as it is being made as a propellant and (obviously) not as an explosive. I only make 100 gr at a time, so if they do get me, it will not be for making a lot at a time. Thanks for the heads up, but who can afford to buy it anymore?
Was curious, is there an issue using FF vs FFF in the revolvers? I have dont it many times when u ran out of FFF but will it actually hurt anything? Thanks
the ff and fff can be used the fff will produce higher speeds..the finner the powder the faster it will burn and produce pressure
So u wanna compress your load? I have Ruger old army I usually shoot 40gr pyrodex with 457 ball
my 1860 has large chambers and i can shoot 40gr with a 454 and no wad..i try to find what load the gun shoots best with..often its near the top of the load i can put in..
Does lubed wad cause degradation to powder if you keep it loaded for longer?
i have not had trouble with the wads doing that..they seem to be dry and little if any lube spreads to the powder
I think if you stored the gun barrel down would be good so if any lube came out it would go to the ball.
Nobody's going mention the birds? Lol. Can barley hear him.
@@billstallings5589 blakie starts his day early i was think'n .
Sure they were loud, but the info was to important to a beginner like me. I just tuned his feathered friends out.
A crazy question, but could you use cardboard in leiu of the felt wad? I have a 44 punch but cant seem to find felt right now.
Hell, I was thinking about a piece of a cotton ball compressed down might be good enough if you want to play around with something inexpensive.
the big issue is will it burn and will it be burning when it land on the ground..i have made wax coated leather wads with a punch and cardboard before..just do a test first and be sure your not going to start a forest fire
@@BLACKIETHOMAS Thank you sir, was on the fence for years about getting into cap and ball but watching your vids pushed me into getting a 1858 remengton and the wife just bought me a 1851 colt in brass, both 44 cal.
What happens if you mix powder and filler?
Try it, you will like it. Poofffubub
Try it, you will like it. Poofffubub
Please turn the birds microphone off.
yep they are nesting all over the place here..and that one was scolding me for being too close
Sounds like you live in a zoo
nope got a thick canopy of trees above and lots of blue jays nesting
@@BLACKIETHOMAS ahhhh, blue Jays!!