@@MandicReally Indeed. Check in on your friends in a month or two, I tried a similar build with wood and the nozzles would clog with dried ink. You’ve inspired me to brainstorm some kind of vertical system, but I’ve got my fingers crossed that your design works, it looks great and I love the modular mindset.
Another design tip is to use parameters. Setting a layer_height as a parameter and then having the chamfer be layer_height*5 or whatever is pretty neat. Probably beyond the scope of this video
Yep, just trying to lay the ground work of thinking about design parameters like that. I can’t say I’m familiar with setting parameters. I’ll have to look into doing that myself. 👌🏻
@@MandicReally parameters are the best! In my layer_height example, if you decide to go 0.2mm later, all you have to do is update the parameter and all the sketches, chamfers, etc. that use that parameter auto-update
A tip for you regarding thinking in layers: Fusion has tons of little parameter functions that can help, so you can use min for instance to make sure a value is never smaller than your layer height, ceil, floor, round can all be used to roung any number to a multiple of your layer height and so on and so forth. All of this is quite helpful if you dont want to have to figure out the multipliers etc yourself so you can focus more on the design. Its also great when you want to make parametric changes.
This is so bizarre as i just finished designing a tattoo ink organizer for a family member. However i focused on the square bottles as my size reference. Turned out more space efficient but yours looks a lot better. Now i feel the need to go redesign mine!
Question.....why not use 0.5 line width and design with nice round numbers like 2? I used to do the same, use .45. One day I said F it, went to 0.5 and never looked back.
Because Evan wanted the wooden face on his. The thinner the walls between the alcoves, the weaker the wood would have been and less of it you'd see. I was balancing not having them be too thick & the wood. Didn't want to bog the video down further with that explanation but a few folks have asked so I probably should have.
Really enjoyed this video! I’ve also been binging your hotrodhippie videos, getting close to doing some body work on a 1970 C10. Thanks for all of the information you give out to help others grow
Great project and very informative content, all neatly tied together! However, in my experience, it's not ideal to limit your design parameters to the parameters of the printer. Today's slicers are perfectly capable of compensating for variable shell thickness (as you say in the video). So, in my opinion, it's best to design for plastic, with plastic design constraints in mind. I would have made the connecting wall a maximum of 2mm, which would have saved a lot of material and printing time. 😊
The other design constraint that I didn't reference is the wood. Yes I absolutely could have gone thinner between each alcove, but then I'd have had 2mm thick bits of wood between them too. I balanced printer parameters AND wood fragility. Just didn't want to keep on dragging out an explanation of all of my design thoughts. I thoroughly disagree with letting the slicer do the work though. You often cannot control HOW it changes things to fit your design. Why allow a slicer to make changes that may or may not achieve your desired outcome when you can just design with constraints in mind? There is always .2mm nozzles (or bigger), or other options if there design constraints are too limiting. You just have to be mindful of what they are and what your goal is. Outside of artistic reasons, I personally think sticking to the characteristics of how printers function is integral to good design.
@@MandicReally that’s for granted, you have to know extremely well how a 3d printer and slicer work. I design taking into account nozzle size and material and I just think line thickness of 0.45 mm (for a 0.4 mm nozzle) is no longer something to design around because today software adjusts that efficiently and automatically (arachne). That is what I meant, sorry if I was unclear. The printer is the tool, I hate that sometimes it has been the other way around (for me at least). 👍🏻
I’ll take it! I usually get Matt Parker the math comedian from Australia. Or any number of other bald guys, so I’ll take a hilarious man with a good head of hair. 😅😂
OSHA has nothing to do with tattoo studios. Most states and cities barely regulate tattooing (in my experience). Philly has the Health department cover it pretty well though. That said, Tattoo inks should NEVER be handled with “hot” hands. Always clean gloves or ungloved hands. As such the outside of the bottles is considered a “clean” surface. Good artists still wipe them down with at least alcohol to ensure they remain that way. All that to say, this storage method should be a non-issue as the bottles aren’t considered contaminated to contaminate the rack. Nothing is perfect and I totally see the point, but I’m actually quite anal about cleanliness in procedural work like this. I see folks printing ink cups and it makes my skin crawl. This rack I personally don’t see an issue with.
That was my original intend but it would have required thicker walls between each part. As it stands I was at the maximum size my Laser can cut to make that wooden face plate. I couldn’t afford any longer. That was a design constraint I forgot to include in the video. Honestly I’m happier screwing it together. Dovetails would have taken multiple prototypes to mail the fit of, the screws just worked the first time.
I feel like your way of doing things is perfectly fine, but for thingsl ike this, it's probably better to lay all of the round bottles next to each other on top of a cutting grid, take a picture, use it as a canvas, trace half of the bottle to scale, then create a revolve around the center axis.
If I'm understanding your direction properly, that would leave a bunch of round holes. That is a very inefficient use of materials as there is a lot of material left between each section versus the Hexagon pattern. I see your direction, and for speed of design it is totally logical, but for overall design quality & efficiency it isn't. I'll gladly spend more time on a design if it returns an overall superior result. This is a design I could see releasing for others to use, or produce for release, so speed is rarely my primary focus.
@@MandicReally Thanks for the reply. I should've been more specific. I agree that the hexagons were the move. I meant to say I would've modeled the bottles that way in Fusion360 for when you were doing the layout, then you wouldn't have to worry about cap sizes and stuff. I spoke too soon though, since the way you designed everything was more universal and didn't make a difference on the cap size anyways.
Squares would be a slightly more efficient use of space but each would have to be slightly bigger to accommodate the biggest bottles. Hard to say which is a better way. Maybe if I do a revision 2 I’ll play with it. 👌🏻
“1 millimeter can feel like a mile.” As a 3d newbie I’ve already felt this and the idea to use a model of the ink bottle is awesome!
When designing parts we can really get bogged down too much in details. It’s important to see the big picture as much as you can. 👌🏻
@@MandicReally Indeed. Check in on your friends in a month or two, I tried a similar build with wood and the nozzles would clog with dried ink. You’ve inspired me to brainstorm some kind of vertical system, but I’ve got my fingers crossed that your design works, it looks great and I love the modular mindset.
My wife is a tattoo artist. We are in the middle of opening our studio. This video couldn't have come at a more perfect time. Thank you!
Oh you'll love what we have coming in a few months then...
@@MandicReally I subbed. Can't wait to see it!
Another design tip is to use parameters. Setting a layer_height as a parameter and then having the chamfer be layer_height*5 or whatever is pretty neat. Probably beyond the scope of this video
Yep, just trying to lay the ground work of thinking about design parameters like that. I can’t say I’m familiar with setting parameters. I’ll have to look into doing that myself. 👌🏻
@@MandicReally parameters are the best! In my layer_height example, if you decide to go 0.2mm later, all you have to do is update the parameter and all the sketches, chamfers, etc. that use that parameter auto-update
Love all your videos!!! just they way you go about doing your videos…. 3D printing and printing practical!!!!
Thank you very much. That means a lot to hear. I second guess my process all the time so it’s nice to hear.
A tip for you regarding thinking in layers: Fusion has tons of little parameter functions that can help, so you can use min for instance to make sure a value is never smaller than your layer height, ceil, floor, round can all be used to roung any number to a multiple of your layer height and so on and so forth.
All of this is quite helpful if you dont want to have to figure out the multipliers etc yourself so you can focus more on the design. Its also great when you want to make parametric changes.
This is so bizarre as i just finished designing a tattoo ink organizer for a family member. However i focused on the square bottles as my size reference. Turned out more space efficient but yours looks a lot better. Now i feel the need to go redesign mine!
Question.....why not use 0.5 line width and design with nice round numbers like 2? I used to do the same, use .45. One day I said F it, went to 0.5 and never looked back.
For me, I’m often having walls as thing are .45 or sections of 1st layers that thin. Wider would be a hinder to finer detail work for me.
I've been bing watching your channel, I really dig these design tips kind of videos.
I did not realize you could use formulas in F360's scaling tool...that's a game changer!
Yeppp, once I learned that scaling became a breeze. 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Looks dope!
Thank you, I'm happy with how it is turning out. Now just to make more...
Dude, some great tips here. Thanks.
When you popped the honeycombs on screen, I'm embarrassed to say that I was quite surprised, despite knowing that they are the bestagons.
Great stuff as usual!
Much appreciated. 👍🏻
hexagons are the bestagons
oh this is awesome
Thank you very much
I'm a tattooer looking to get into 3d printing. So glad I found your channel. Would you be willing to sell this design by chance?
Who woulda thought that your friends would be tattoo artists? Never would have suspected it!
What makes you add the extra wall width for the infill? Why not reduce to 6*extusion_width and save the print time?
Because Evan wanted the wooden face on his. The thinner the walls between the alcoves, the weaker the wood would have been and less of it you'd see. I was balancing not having them be too thick & the wood. Didn't want to bog the video down further with that explanation but a few folks have asked so I probably should have.
Really enjoyed this video! I’ve also been binging your hotrodhippie videos, getting close to doing some body work on a 1970 C10. Thanks for all of the information you give out to help others grow
Great project and very informative content, all neatly tied together!
However, in my experience, it's not ideal to limit your design parameters to the parameters of the printer. Today's slicers are perfectly capable of compensating for variable shell thickness (as you say in the video). So, in my opinion, it's best to design for plastic, with plastic design constraints in mind. I would have made the connecting wall a maximum of 2mm, which would have saved a lot of material and printing time. 😊
The other design constraint that I didn't reference is the wood. Yes I absolutely could have gone thinner between each alcove, but then I'd have had 2mm thick bits of wood between them too. I balanced printer parameters AND wood fragility. Just didn't want to keep on dragging out an explanation of all of my design thoughts.
I thoroughly disagree with letting the slicer do the work though. You often cannot control HOW it changes things to fit your design. Why allow a slicer to make changes that may or may not achieve your desired outcome when you can just design with constraints in mind? There is always .2mm nozzles (or bigger), or other options if there design constraints are too limiting. You just have to be mindful of what they are and what your goal is. Outside of artistic reasons, I personally think sticking to the characteristics of how printers function is integral to good design.
@@MandicReally that’s for granted, you have to know extremely well how a 3d printer and slicer work. I design taking into account nozzle size and material and I just think line thickness of 0.45 mm (for a 0.4 mm nozzle) is no longer something to design around because today software adjusts that efficiently and automatically (arachne). That is what I meant, sorry if I was unclear.
The printer is the tool, I hate that sometimes it has been the other way around (for me at least). 👍🏻
I think I figured out who you remind me of: a bald Weird Al !!!
I’ll take it! I usually get Matt Parker the math comedian from Australia. Or any number of other bald guys, so I’ll take a hilarious man with a good head of hair. 😅😂
What does OSHA say about this? I would have concerns about the porous surface, but still a nice solution.
OSHA has nothing to do with tattoo studios. Most states and cities barely regulate tattooing (in my experience). Philly has the Health department cover it pretty well though. That said, Tattoo inks should NEVER be handled with “hot” hands. Always clean gloves or ungloved hands. As such the outside of the bottles is considered a “clean” surface. Good artists still wipe them down with at least alcohol to ensure they remain that way. All that to say, this storage method should be a non-issue as the bottles aren’t considered contaminated to contaminate the rack.
Nothing is perfect and I totally see the point, but I’m actually quite anal about cleanliness in procedural work like this. I see folks printing ink cups and it makes my skin crawl. This rack I personally don’t see an issue with.
Could've connected the parts together with integrated dovetails instead of heat inserts.
That was my original intend but it would have required thicker walls between each part. As it stands I was at the maximum size my Laser can cut to make that wooden face plate. I couldn’t afford any longer. That was a design constraint I forgot to include in the video. Honestly I’m happier screwing it together. Dovetails would have taken multiple prototypes to mail the fit of, the screws just worked the first time.
I feel like your way of doing things is perfectly fine, but for thingsl ike this, it's probably better to lay all of the round bottles next to each other on top of a cutting grid, take a picture, use it as a canvas, trace half of the bottle to scale, then create a revolve around the center axis.
If I'm understanding your direction properly, that would leave a bunch of round holes. That is a very inefficient use of materials as there is a lot of material left between each section versus the Hexagon pattern. I see your direction, and for speed of design it is totally logical, but for overall design quality & efficiency it isn't. I'll gladly spend more time on a design if it returns an overall superior result. This is a design I could see releasing for others to use, or produce for release, so speed is rarely my primary focus.
@@MandicReally Thanks for the reply. I should've been more specific. I agree that the hexagons were the move. I meant to say I would've modeled the bottles that way in Fusion360 for when you were doing the layout, then you wouldn't have to worry about cap sizes and stuff. I spoke too soon though, since the way you designed everything was more universal and didn't make a difference on the cap size anyways.
If it is made into squares, it will be more beautiful for you
Squares would be a slightly more efficient use of space but each would have to be slightly bigger to accommodate the biggest bottles. Hard to say which is a better way. Maybe if I do a revision 2 I’ll play with it. 👌🏻
Is IT just me or are you and Stand Up maths very similar?
The fusion info was good - the design - ehhhhh - not sure it was worth it
Tattoo so called artists should be put in prison.
Way to be a judgemental person putting hate into the world.