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2003 GMC Yukon AC Compressor and Accumulator Part 2: Accumulator
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- Опубликовано: 14 авг 2024
- Find your parts here www.apdty.com/
In this video, we'll show you how to remove the AC compressor, accumulator, and orifice tube in order to replace them.
00:00 - Remove Orifice Tube
02:18 - Flush System
04:01 - Connect AC Lines to Compressor
05:26 - Compare Old & New Part
06:51 - Install New Accumulator
07:46 - Install New Orifice Tube
08:17 - Vacuum & Refill AC System
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This video saved me about $800-bought the compressor and accumulator as a package deal off ebay for $175 ,1 can of a/c flush from autozone $13,2 cans of r134a from walmart $18. Thank God my nieghbor had a vaccum pump- its chunkin snowballs after about $208-THANK YOU FOR THIS DETAILED VID.
Man, you just saved my bacon. I have this same model, and am about to do the same repair! Thanks so much for talking us through it. People like you are awesome!
Thank you very much for the information. I have now taken care of my problem. I have no doubt that your site will eventually be the talk of RUclips. More and more people are trying to take care of problems instead of taking their car to a dealer. You are a great service and I hope you continue.
Sincerely, Pat Greene
Thanks for making the video. Though I have a 2001 Silverado, the proceedure was the same and this video was a great help. You left out several steps but this was great and what I needed. Nice to be driving around with a-c again. Thanks
I was just quoted $1300 to have this done to my '99 Silverado. Having seen this video, I will swap the parts myself and save a fortune. I'll pay a much lesser amount instead to have the system professionally flushed, vacuumed and recharged.
So many good questions have gone unanswered. So I won't waste my time asking any and a thumbs down for the unanswered questions.
2001 silverado with 4X4...V8....HAS THIS SETUP. NO NEED TO PULL OFF TIRE AND WHEEL FENDER. LOOSEN THE FAN. THANKS FOR CONFIRMING MY SUSPICION. NOONE ELSE COVERED IT, NOR DOES HAYNES. YOU COULD REVISE YOUR TITLE TO GET MORE VIEWS, INCLUDE 4X4. GREAT VIDEO.
I'm doing this job right now. It has been quite the challenge
I have a new compressor and accumulator for a 2004 silverado, but the oil came separately. Where do I pour the oil in and how much? Also, do I need to put oil in the accumulator?
Reasonable refresher course for me. But you left out a few things. The sensor on the back of the compressor. You didnt say anything about how to put in the oil if you need to. But again I thank you for the general idea. One other thing. I found it way easier to take the inner fender well off and go in from the side. I have a lift at home so I just worked through the wheel well on the compressor and left the shroud and fan alone. (per mitchell on demand.)But I havent flushed it yet or swapped the orfice yet so Im glad you showed it. Yhis is my first Yukon ac job since I got disabled and closed my shop.
the bearing went bad on the compressor so do I need to flush and remove moisture or can I just have a shop remove gas , I replace compressor and have the gas put back in by shop?
I would have liked to see you flush the evaporator too but for the most part, good show!
You need a pro type flush gun and a quarter gallon of solvent and clean dry air to properly flush it.
@sofujun Yes, Drawing down the vacuum is necessary after opening the ac system. This does two things. It removes the air from the system and removes the moisture from the system, both of which can have negative and destructive effects on the AC system. Failure to draw vacuum can cause the high pressure to run too high and shorten the life of your compressor, as well as make the system work less efficiently. Thanks!
We did actually flush the evaporator, Any time you flush the system you want to be sure to flush the condenser, the evaporator, and all the lines. I did not add any additional oil to the accumulator because on this particular job, we also replaced the compressor, the compressor we used came with the required amount of oil for the entire system. So no additional oil needed to be added.
Flush with what? Compressed air? U kinda flew through this part
Yes it is a good idea to flush the rear, you can follow the lines towards the front and disconnect them at the front and flush it from there.
You did a really good job man.i appreciate.new subscriber.
What size is the bolt that holds the ac line to the compressor I bought a 2001 gmc yukon and it was disconnected and no bolt. Please help.
Hello, I could not find that bolt in any of our catalogs. If the old one is gone, then no way to measure it, so the easiest thing is probably stop at your local dealership parts department and they can look it up via your VIN. While I'm sure you could buy the bolt outside of a dealership, it is very hard to come up with the size, also the dealer couldn't be too crazy for just a bolt, but maybe
It is very important when doing the compressor. The reason is that any debris in the system can get sucked into the new compressor, quickly damaging it and either causing it to fail, or work inefficiently. Most compressor manufactures will even void your warranty unless you have proof that the system was flushed when the job was performed.
Thank You, Excellent and Very helpful. Very much appreciated :-)
I really wished you would have shown some more detail. Specifically where the rear orifice tube is located, flushing the rear system. Is an orifice tube and expansion tube the same thing? thanks
sorry if we didn't show enough, yes the orifice tube is the same as the expansion valve, the flushing process is also the same, you just flush each and every component not being replaced and each end every line,
Believe it or not, on that same line are both the high and low pressure fittings. The Orifice tube is in between the two fittings, and it is what creates the pressure difference between high and low sides. The smaller of those two is the low side and the larger is the high side. Once the system is up and running you will even notice the line goes from hot to cold right at that spot where the orifice tube is in that same line.
I have a whining gear type noise coming from mine, but the A/C is not on, so I am assuming the clutch itself is bad? I turned the air on for the first time yesterday and the noise did not change. Got plenty of cold air. Will most likely replace the tensioner just to be sure as well. (Does the compressor spin when the A/C is not on?)
Mike Zupancic The Outer portion of the compressor is a clutch and that will always rotate with the engine. If the noise is occurring with the AC off and stays the same with the AC on, then the good news might be the internal portion of the compressor is ok and you can hunt down what is causing that noise. You can take a long extension or even a mechanics stethoscope adn here is a link to one on Amazon:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015DLMOO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B0015DLMOO&linkCode=as2&tag=aupaditoyo-20&linkId=OOLDYV45UAY647EB
Be very careful as the engine will be running when you touch the stethoscope to each component. The component with the sound is usually a bearing failing in one of the pulleys and it is extremely noticeable with the stethoscope. If the tensioner is making the noise you will be able to tell before replacement. ALso if the compressor clutch is the culprit, then take into consideration the age and mileage as you may be better off with complete compressor replacement over replacing just the clutch.
Is it necessary to spin the compressor by hand a couple of cycles to avoid a potential hydro-lock? All in all a good explanation.
You would have to check for power going to the compressor at the same time it is not engaging when it should be. So if the clutch is getting power, but not engaging, then you need a new one. But if you are not getting power, then the problem is something else electrical upstream from the compressor.
humm so when you flush the whole system or just the condenser does it matter if one uses compressed air to force the flushng solution in? it doesn't damage any O-rings or reed valves on the compressor? Maybe it is all ok as long as you vacuum /decharge it again to make sure you have know moister
that sounds more like you are just low on refrigerant. if the orifice tube is clogged, the low side will drop so fast the high side won't even get a chance to build up any pressure. I suspect that the system is just low on charge. Try adding a 0.75 lb can of refrigerant and see what the pressures go to.
Thanks for the video I have a question I changed everything except that pin in the tube I pump in a few cans of ac freon but it does not get cold Wat do I have to do is that pin a must change thanks
if you dont have access to compressed air. can you use vacuum to flush out the ac lines?
Unfortunately with that thing you are only seeing half the picture, to properly figure out what is going on you need a dual-manifold gauge, you have to be able to monitor both the high and low side pressures. For the low side to be as high as you mention, it could be a few things, from contaminated refrigerant, overcharged system, or even a bad ac compressor, but you can't tell without having a high pressure gauge connected also.
I chanced everything just like, but it only blows a little cold air, and the clutch doesn't move at all on less if the truck is moving.
I also didnt see anything addressing the flush od the evaporator core or the rear portion of the system. Did you skip that or???
Nathan Valentine Yes we flushed everything but edited it out to make the video watchable. Every single component needs to be flushed if the old compressor failed internally. Also if you have rear AC, those components also need flushing and or replacement.
What is the connector back of the compressor and purpose would that cause issues if not connected?
I just replaced all of these components accumulator, orifice tube, and compressor on my 01 Yukon and the damn thing still blows hot. it wouldn't take but a half a can or so of Freon and the compressor is not coming on. any suggestions? the only thing I didn't do is use a fancy manifold system to put the Freon in, just the do it yourself gauge that the Freon comes with :(
Sounds like a electrical issue. I'd start by checking for 12 volts and ground at the compressor while trying to charge the system
Did you put the system back under vacuum?
What switch is behind the compressor? What does it connect to?
If you have rear ac(suburban) should you or how do you flush the system back there? I'm replacing both the front and rear accumulator's along w/ a new compressor. Thank's.
Just curious, but why did you also change the Accumulator at the firewall and what is the purpose of the Orifice Tube?
What is the torgue for the high and low hose to compressor?
@1919mblades Yes, this one has rear air.
So, I was all ready to do this until you got to the part about evacuating the whole system. I don't have that. What can a person do who doesn't have the pump? I have the ability to remove, replace and recharge but I didn't realize you had to vacuum the system first. What do I do?
tjdinfl : You can buy a cheap vacuum pump on Amazon or eBay.
Or loan it from autozone.
You can loan all the equipment and return it. Guages,vacuum pump. Flusher with air connection. Orfice removal tool.
My compressor is making a loud ticking noise when the ac is on. Also the air will get hot when I stop at a light but when moving thevairvis fine. Could it be a bad fan clutch
It could be a bad fan clutch, but If the compressor itself is making noise, then unfortunately it is probably at the end of its useful life. Also if the AC condenser is cooled by either an electric fan or fan clutch or both (depending on the vehicle you have). Onne or both may need inspection as that is a very common symptom of the condenser not being cooled down which will raise the high side pressure up to high and shut off the AC. Also this is all happening and putting extra stress on an already worn noisy compressor.
looks like you only flushed the condensor, does the evaporator need flushing? Also, why didn't you add Pag oil to the accumulator?
Thanks in advance for the response
You might not have enough refrigerant still,, those trucks hold a lot, and even though there might be enough refrigerant to turn the compressor on, doesn't necessarily mean there is enough for the system to cool. You should put some manifold pressure gauges (or have a shop do it) on the truck and see if your high and low pressure sides are within spec, I bet you need more freon.
I have seen flushing can's that have a compressed air port so I would believe logically that it wouldn't make any difference so long as know components are damaged by the pressure of the compressed air and you vaccum the moister out before recharging the system
I just did this exact replacement today and I get high pressure rising to 440psi and doesn't blow totally cold at vents. Had compressor failure grinding before. I suppose I still have a blockage somewhere? And I do have rear AC.
That is a scary high pressure psi, a blockage is most likely the issue. The other point of interest would be the cooling fan and/or clutch (poor air flow thru condenser)
Looks like it all settled after they hooked the pressure gauges back up
How did you move the stud from the old accumulator to the new one? Is it press fit into the accumulator or is it reverse threaded? I'm shopping for a accumulator for my GM and noticed not all come with the stud installed.
I'm sure you already finished getting your accumulator installed, but I had the same question as you. I tried getting the old stud out of my old accumulator, but I didn't have a tool to get it out. I took it to O'Reillys where I bought my part and they took out the old stud and put it in my new accumulator for me. I believe it was reverse threaded and they of course had the part for it. I'm surprised the OP glossed over that issue.
Thanks for the reply. Actually, I haven't even begin to work on this project. Perhaps I will stop by O'Reillys to see if they rent the tool the remove the stud. Thanks!!
No problem. If you bring in your old and new accumulator, I'm sure they'll do it for you for free like they did for me. I bought my accumulator there so maybe that had something to do with it. Good luck!
Brian Chen
The stud is threaded. It can be removed with a female torx socket fairly easily.
I went to the Website link provided, but could not find a compressor and/or accumulator for my model listed.
Does your Company still carry these parts?
Regardless, thank you so much for making a straight forward how-to video:>)
I have a 2002 escalade , when ever I turn on the ac after a couple of weeks of use with a new belt the compressor makes a nasty machine gun noise and the belt breaks , my service always says when they replace and change the ac belt the compressor
Is fine it spins free , or I justed Needed some oil or Low on gas , that's tells me it's a bad compressor , why Won't they change it or
Is it me.
may if the compressor is removed the flushing the system with flush solution and compressed air doesn't damage anything in the accumulator ,condenser , evaporator , orifices tube so one flushes with compressor removed with know worries... that is for the whole system flushing, and if you want to flush a particular component of the ac just remember to remove the compressor.
Does it only have one orfice tube if its both front and back a/c unit????
What does the blue connector go too, mine is just dangling there unconnected
ken crockett What is the time stamp when you see the blue connector?
Auto Parts Direct To You :05s there is a blue and a white connector. On my 04 avalanche the white is plugged in and the blue just sits exposed
+ken crockett my dads 05 silverado has it but my 03 tahoe doesnt have it, from what i read awhile back it will be taped up and it should be for a 2nd battery and the control module that goes around that
How important is it to flush the system out? Do you feel that its necessary?
I am guessing you need to buy the new seals or do they come with new compressor/accumulator? Good video
yeah just today i was helping the guy where i work figure out the mystery of the two ports in the same line.all i was finding is that they were the high and low.. our boss made him feel so dumb because he just couldnt believe it, i will let him know, he isnt getting the a/c to blow cold, i wil show him this.. make another vid clarifying that the low and hi are on the same line, maybe i will suggest to him what i see..here
In all the related videos, nobody mentions the torque specs for the ac lines to the compressor.
why did you not put oil in the compressor or the high pressure switch
New Compressor came with oil in it
+Brian Odom only like 2 to 3 Oz calls for 8 Oz with only front air and with rear air calls for 11oz
The oils main job is lubricating the compressor. Our AC kit is assembled for vehicles with rear AC (11 oz) and without rear AC (8oz) and also includes the accumulator. Once the system is cycled the oil is circulated and some is absorbed by the accumulator
Oil required or not sir?
Does this vehicle have rear air? Does the flush take care of the whole system, including the rear air? Are there any filters located in the rear? Thanks in advance
Jim Fenlon Unfortunately this is somewhat old and I cant remember. If you have rear AC, then the rear lines and evaporator also must be flushed. Anytime a flush is done, the entire system, should be flushed. Also the rear expansion valve should be replaced as it can catch debris and clog.
Auto Parts Direct To You Where is the rear expansion valve?
The rear uses a Thermal Expansion Valve located on the rear evaporator
They will usually come with the part that you are replacing.
We have a 2003 Suburban just like the Yukon in your video. When we got it the seller said the AC had never worked for him and he had it for 3 years. I checked the shrader valve at the low side and noticed there was some pressure. I thought if it was holding pressure that long even though it wasn't much, it must not be leaking and we could just charge it and it would work. I put two large cans of refrigerant in and the compressor kicked on and sounded good, but the air stayed hot. What to do?
So after all these years, did you find the solution to your problem? Mine is the same and it can help many more, if you kindly share your info.
@@samsen3965 same here! Think 8m just going to replace compressor
I just spent about 1000 to have this service done to my 2001 Yukon. the front AC works great however, my rear ac does not blow cold air. what could be wrong?
Felipe Justo Rear orifice tube is likely. The repair shop should have tested the pressures afterward and can tell if it is clogged or not, I would service that ASAP as you don't want anything happening to that new compressor.
Damn. I have a 2001 GMC Yukon and I think mine is on the fritz!!
What are the pressure readings when the compressor turns off? (low and high)
Auto Parts Direct To You earlier enter engers9
That would have been Great...Except I watched the whole video and STILL don't know where the Low pressure port is to Recharge the system. There are 2 on the small line...Which I thought was the High pressure side...and I know you need to charge on the Low pressure side :/ :/ :/
I've been lookiing for 2 hours now trying to find and make sure I charge from the low pressure side : /
Pat Greene
I have a 2002 GMC Truck Sierra 1500 4WD 5.3L and when i use the R-134a A/C pro refrigerant with hose gauge from autozone.... when filling gauge goes up high almost to 65lbs but when i accelerate the engine the pressure drops to the normal and the more i accelerate the engine the pressure drops even more can you please help? Thank you in advance.
Unfortunately with that thing you are only seeing half the picture, to properly figure out what is going on you need a dual-manifold gauge, you have to be able to monitor both the high and low side pressures. For the low side to be as high as you mention, it could be a few things, from contaminated refrigerant, overcharged system, or even a bad ac compressor, but you can't tell without having a high pressure gauge connected also. It also could be normal as you do charge through the low side but again you can't see what's happening with just seeing the low side.
How much should this cost to have done?
So the drier doesn't have to be oiled?
loveto livetruely the newer vehicles it is best to let the compressor distribute the oil with the refrigerant, technicians techniques will vary and adding some oil to each component was pretty normal for older mode cars.
Thanks. I have a question. Are you supposed to put the been orings on the end s of each line. To and from the compressor, the evaporator, condenser and accumulator as well?.... The lines come with a metal oring with a black rubber center. We keep getting there's a leak because we can't get it to vacuum.
I ran in to the same problem with orifice tube. It jammed 3/4 of the way in. After i took it back out, I removed the o-ring and replaced it with the o-ring from the orifice tube being replaced. Oiled it up, and it slid in snugly.
Yukon must be different then a tahoe, you have rubber lines going into the compressor and mine are metal
Can you show me how to replace an Air Accumulator?
Don't forget the PAG oil
where is part 1 give me link
where's part 1 video?
2009 Honda ac comprasor change
Accord Honda 2008 ac compressor change
wow, now i see why mechanics want to charge $1100+ to install a compressor,etc. what a pain if you don't have the right tools! great vid though.
ANOTHER EXPERT THAT FAILS TO MENTION COMPRESSOR OIL
What are you talking about? He plainly said that particular compressor came with all of the oil preinstalled, but that you need to check the instructions for your own compressor. Pay attention.
did you actually watch the video?
pls wash your hands!! lawdy dirt on the o rings??