I met this guy several years ago when he was shooting with his friends. Great group of guys. Didn't realize who he was at the time. Generous, friendly bunch. Gonna get some tactical green for a Ar15 build I'm doing.
Applied duracoat a couple weeks ago to a LC9S that was showing a lot of wear. Couldn't be happier with the results. I went ahead and did the slide and frame.. It looks awesome. Word of advice though, be patient after you're finished. It takes a few weeks for the paint to cure. I got impatient and putting the gun back together and marked up the finish a little putting the sights back on. Wasn't a huge deal, but I ended up lightly sanding and reshooting it with duracoat. I've left it alone this time.. Looks great If you have a old gun that has seen better days, give it a try. It will make it look great. Just be patient. It was a fun project to do and I love the results. I used the kit where you mix the paint and harder yourself and comes with a spray can, reducer, and scotch pad.. That's everything you need and can use the left over paint for another project.
+BAbassfishin I've heard of people using brake or transmission cleaner. ISO alcohol is a great way of cleaning oil from firearms. Beware of any sort of cleaner that leaves a residue; that can ruin the adherence of the paint.
+BAbassfishin We recommend using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser. It was formulated to cut through the grease and oils found on firearms and it also dries quickly and doesn't leave a residue.
+zaqzilla1 You are exactly correct in that it is very important that the cleaner does not leave a residue. We typically don't recommend using isopropyl alcohol as a cleaner though since it is typically not strong enough to cut through the grease and oils found on firearms. We recommend using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser because it was formulated to cut through the grease and oils on firearms.
Dude, I've been in the industrial coating industry in the past for 15 yrs and safety equipment is important. Proper ventilation and personal protective gear I see you've a spray booth but not operating and no mask and the cleaning process without rubber gloves and ventilation. You wanna live long enough to make all this invention worth while you should use it.
I used DuraPark on my Uzi. I had a little problem with the coat at first, but the company made it right. This is a great company that I highly recommend. The finish is quite nice.
Yes, we plan to continually add to the colors that the DuraCoat Aerosol is available in. Magpul OD Green and the Tactical line will all most likely be a part of the colors that are added to the DuraCoat Aerosol line over time.
A hair dryer was used in this video as a simple, do-it-yourself way to flash off the solvents in between layers of DuraCoat. This could always be done with all of our DuraCoat products using a hair dryer, heat gun, shop air, fan, etc.
I duracoated my AK last year. I was surprised how well it holds up....Just bought a can of the new aerosol in parker for my sks...I hope it does as well as the other stuff.
ramairgto72 If you are referring to the M-715 military vehicle, yes, DuraCoat will work great on it! We have had many, many customers use DuraCoat with excellent success on their vehicles. Just be sure to request our UV Hardener with your DuraCoat so that you do not experience any color fading.
Can't wait to see more colors added! Every firearm, knife, multi-tool I own wears Duracoat with pride. I think my grill is next. Keep up the good work and keep bringing us these awesome products!
Lou S. Makes an excellent point. If you only have a couple of small parts to paint, you've thrown $35 away if you can't find something worthwhile to use the rest of it on in 48 hours! And yes, there ARE people out there who have a firearm hobby, but don't have a lot to spend on it. If you have money to blow, I'm happy for you. But that's no reason to look down your nose at someone who is frugal, for whatever reason.
Thank you for purchasing DuraCoat! We appreciate your business. If you have any questions or need any assistance, please feel free to contact us by phone or e-mail!
+kinkydoints When properly applied, DuraCoat should not cause any tolerances issues with the areas of the Glock you mentioned or anywhere on the Glock. If your Glock slide has been treated with Tenifer, we recommend either scuff sanding the slide with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper or blasting with 120 grit aluminum oxide to ensure proper adhesion of the DuraCoat. We also recommend this same surface preparation procedure for the frame since most plastics are petroleum-based and this procedure will again help ensure proper adhesion. If blasting, be sure to begin with the pressure very low and test on an inconspicuous spot on the frame to ensure no damage to the frame occurs.
+LONEONE STAR We are the manufacturers of DuraCoat. We are not the manufacturers of the aerosol can. The aerosol can is manufactured by a different company and is used in many different industries.
+DuraCoat Firearm Finishes So is it okay to use extra coats of different Duracoat for a camo pattern? Would you wait the full 3 weeks for curing before applying additional coatings? How many colors (cans) are too many? I want an ACU camo pattern and I believe that requires 4 colors.
+John Kennedy Yes, you can use multiple DuraCoat colors to create a camo pattern. The base coat should be applied using 3-4 thin, wet layers. This is the same as if you were only doing a single color on the firearm. This will provide the protection layer. All other colors added after are only for decoration, so only apply enough DuraCoat to provide the proper color and hide the color underneath. When completing a camo pattern, we recommend waiting a minimum of 2-3 hours after applying a color before applying templates and spraying another color. DuraCoat has a seven day working period however, so just be sure to complete the entire project within seven days after spraying the base coat. All of the camo pattern kits we offer (they're not available in an aerosol can kit however) can be found on our website here: www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=829. A four-color camo pattern will not be too many colors. As long as the application instructions are followed correctly and layers are applied in a thin manner, there shouldn't be tolerance issues from too much DuraCoat being applied.
We are hoping to expand the DuraCoat Aerosol color lineup to include many of our other color lines including the Metal Collection (which includes numerous bronze colors), the Tactical line, and others. We are currently in the research and development stage but are hoping to expand the DuraCoat Aerosol lineup sometime in the near future.
It's possible I didn't prep completely but I applied the Duracoat as instructed to the slide of my 1911 and it was really pretty for the first 6 months before it started to chip off. I won't use it again.
We are sorry to hear that your project didn't turn out. If you are experiencing chipping, then the surface was contaminated or needed to be roughed up more. Please contact us directly via phone or email if you would like to discuss your project further.
I will be looking for that smaller less expensive can, LOL. You folks are awsome and give the best customer support. Cerakote could take some lessons from you. Thanks keep up the good work!
After using two cans of this (Matte Black and Blackhawk Coyote Tan) I have to say, both colors came out full on glossy. Using a hair dryer did not help either. Shame, because I really wanted this to work well. I ended up mixing up other colors with the flattening agent to make my rifle look the way I wanted it to look.
geists2k We are sorry to hear that you were dissatisfied with your results with our DuraCoat Aerosol. Due to the UV Hardener in the DuraCoat Aerosol, the sheen on all colors will be glossy at first. The sheen should slowly settle down to its proper level (that would be a matte sheen for both of our Matte Black and BlackHawk Coyote Tan colors) after about 3 to 4 weeks. If the colors were still glossy after 3 to 4 weeks, then something during the application process may have caused the increase in sheen. It sounds as though you were able to resolve the issue on your own, but we still encourage you to give us a call at 1-800-830-6677 or send us an e-mail to info[at]lauerweaponry[.]com. We would be happy to discuss the issue with you and we would also work to rectify the situation in whatever way possible. Our customer service hours are: Monday - Friday 7am - 5pm CST.
+Mike Teves DuraCoat can be used on both the external and internal parts of a firearm. We recommend our DuraCoat SL (Self-Lubricating) for moving parts. The areas that you decide to coat is up to you. Two areas that you should never coat are inside of the barrel and the bolt face (the surface of the bolt that meets the back of the cartridge). Any areas that you don't want to coat should be masked/plugged before coating.
A few questions, First does sand blasting the part to be Duracoated give it better adhesion? Second it looked as if all that was needed was a hairdryer between coatings, but after the 4th coat, how long does it take to cure and does it need to be baked?
Media blasting the parts with either sand or 60 to 120 grit aluminum oxide before DuraCoating is always recommended when someone has the access and ability to do so. A blasted surface will provide the optimum substrate for DuraCoat to adhere to. DuraCoat is dry to the touch in twenty minutes, you can handle it in an hour, and you can reassemble and use the item the next day. Only submit the item to light use at this time though. A full cure is reached in 3-4 weeks. DuraCoat does not need to be baked. You can bake DuraCoat to speed up the initial dry time but it will not speed up the final cure time and will not make the DuraCoat any more durable. The hairdryer in the video was used as a simple method of speeding up the flashing off of the solvents in between coats. The use of the hairdryer speeds up the process but has the same effect as leaving the part sit for 5-10 minutes in between coats.
1 What color is this your spraying. In the video it looks more grey than black. 2 No satin-y type colors? 3 How many rifles would that can paint? 4 How many pistols would that can paint? Thanks MJ
1. The color being sprayed in the main instructional portion of the video is our #4-Matte Black. The lighting in the video and also computer monitors cause the color to look grayish but it is indeed Matte Black being sprayed. 2. All of our colors are a matte finish unless otherwise noted in the color name. For example, our color #5-Semigloss Black (HK). 3. The DuraCoat Aerosol contains 4 ounces of the DuraCoat color of your choice and can coat up to two complete rifles, depending on the size of the rifles and the number of accessories. 4. The DuraCoat Aerosol can coat up to four complete handguns, again depending on the size of the handguns and the number of accessories.
Because i think your product is good, I ordered a shake-n-spray kit a few days ago to see if i have better luck with this system than the actual aerosol can . Hopefully i will have better results .
+p pollaccia No, DuraCoat is an air-cured product. DuraCoat can be baked to speed up the initial dry time, so that you can handle and reassemble sooner, but it isn't required and doesn't make it any more durable.
Can I duracoat raw 1018 steel after I sandblast the top layer of material off of it? Is this a bad idea should I just pay someone to blue it professionally?
No need to answer my question, I found your answer in another response. I see you've been nice enough already to repeat the same answer over, and over, and over again! Lol! I won't make you!
So you used the can of duracoat on the barrel of the weapon and after your done can the can be used again and again or is once the hardener comes into contact with the finishing product and you done with the barrel need to be discarded since it will harden in the can or can I reuse it several weeks later on another barrel.
Once the can has been activated (the Hardener released into the rest of the can), the DuraCoat Aerosol is usable for up to four weeks depending upon environmental conditions. The DuraCoat Aerosol UV, for use on items with 24/7 outdoor exposure, is usable for up to 48 hours after activation. Also, on a side note, when DuraCoating a barrel be sure to never coat the inside of the barrel.
Yes I had the same problem the can wanted to clog up or spit it out I had to hurry and try to get it off with thinner I tried twice with the same results then ran out maybe just a bad can not sure I'm an automotive refinisher and next time might find a product I can spray using a small cutin spray gun
telh74 We are sorry to hear that you experienced that issue. That is not a typical result of our DuraCoat Aerosol and we will gladly work with you to rectify this situation. Please give us a call at 1-800-830-6677 or send us an e-mail to info[at]lauerweaponry[.]com. We will help determine why this issue may have occurred and we will also work to rectify this situation in whatever way works best for you.We offer our DuraCoat product in many different application methods in order to accommodate all individuals. DuraCoat in its original form is sold in a liquid in numerous different size bottles. It can be mixed and sprayed through many different kinds of spray equipment. This form of DuraCoat may be more suited to your preferences and we encourage you to give it a try.
DuraCoat is an air-cured product, no matter which method you're using to apply it (aerosol or spray equipment), and so no baking is needed. The hair dryer was used as a simple way to blow air on the surface in between each layer of DuraCoat in order to flash off the solvents. The flashing off of the solvents can also be achieved by waiting ten minutes between each layer. If using air, the air does not need to be hot, it just needs to be blowing air. A heat gun can be used but only on its lowest setting. Also, make sure that the material you are using it on can withstand that heat without damaging it. But like we said, heat is not necessary.
Can I use this product on motorcycle parts like disk brake calipers and hot engine parts. What I mean is if the duracoat paint hold up with heat and other things
Always wear protective gloves, eyewear, and an approved respirator when working with any of our products. You should also always work in a well-ventilated area. Be sure to read all warnings, first aid information, and product instructions before using any of our products. This is indicated in both annotation and card form in the video.
Only problem I find with your technique is that as a professional you should have used gloves to handle the item. Oils from your hands contaminate it as you handle it. You pulled a Homer there - LoL
Don't use gloves and you would have a great chance to have eczema is a short-term future and psoriasis in a long-term future. Also, use a good mask, equipped with an activated coal filter.
This looks great. I think I could actually do this myself. Do you think DC would stick to a gun that has been previously NP3ed? I just want to change the color to more standard firearm colors than shiny gray nickel color that NP3 ends up.
Is there any added benefit if the gun parts are warmed in say a Toaster Oven or regular Oven to maybe 100-120° to prior to applying Duracoat to open the pores of the metal?? Or warming after applying Duracoat to help harden?.... like what is done with Automotive painting
We do not recommend heating parts before coating. We have not seen any added benefit from doing so. In fact, this typically leads to negative results as the heat draws out the oils from deep within the metal surface and can cause adhesion issues. You can bake metal parts (in a coating-dedicated industrial oven) after coating with DuraCoat to speed up the initial dry time. This will allow you to handle and reassemble the parts sooner. However, this does not speed up the full cure time and does not make the coating any more durable.
Willis Fleming the point is doing it yourself. also, please let me know who the pro is that will mix the color, sand, and refinish to a professional final product for 60 dollars...I highly doubt it. no way he's making profit and justifying labor.
And my point is that it's more cost effective to pay a professional to do it so you don't fuck it up because you're dumb😂😂😂 And the guy I use charges 60 bucks to duracoat and 80 for hydrodip... Haha you must be up north somewhere getting ripped off....
I bet hes using dupli color for them cheap ass prices or shitty prep work and 80 for hydro dip tf he's got his prices backwards lmao coating a gun takes more time and heating cost dipping is easy af i worked for a cellphone repair shop that did dipping on guns ps4s xboxs etc
I'm restoring an old double barrel and want to know if its necessary or will it give me better results to remove the bluing from the barrels before hitting it with the matte black.
+Jack Stone If the bluing is in good condition with no rust, then there is no need to completely remove it before applying DuraCoat. Simply follow the standard surface preparation procedure of cleaning, roughing up the surface, and coating. If the bluing is in poor condition and rust is present then all rust must be removed before coating, which may require all of the bluing to be removed as well depending upon the condition.
I bought the Aerosol can in magpul flat dark earth color. It works as intended and couldn't be easier. It just takes some time to prepare it before applying the paint. Only question I have is how long should I wait before pulling out any masking tape that I applied to my lower and upper receiver to cover certain areas not to be painted?
+Colby W. Yes, DuraCoat is a two-part firearm coating that is available in over 300 different colors and offers outstanding durability. We also have a product called DuraBlue that replicates the look of traditional bluing while also offering the durability that DuraCoat is known for. Be sure to completely remove all of the existing bluing and rust before coating with any of our products.
I have a lower that needs some clean up as far as machining marks. If I sand those marks out, which would take the parkerized finish off in those areas, would it be a problem if I then coated it in Goddess Purple? Basically, if parts of my lower are bare aluminium & parts are parkerized, would it all match after coating it in Goddess Purple?
+shananagans5 Yes, all of the parts will look the same after coating with DuraCoat. Just make sure to thoroughly clean all of the parts using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser prior to sanding out the machining marks. Then, once your finished sanding, simply blow off the sanding dust with clean shop air and spray with DuraCoat.
if u dont finish a can with the projects at hand, how long do you have before the dura coat in the can renders useless once activated? just wondering the amount of time between projects i have or do i have to line up all my projects before hand to get them done before the cans expired
Once activated, you have up to 48 hours to use the DuraCoat Aerosol before it will become unusable. The DuraCoat Aerosol contains 4oz of DuraCoat, which can coat up to two complete rifles or four handguns, so we recommend having all of your projects prepped and ready to go before activating the can.
It doesn't look like you're scuffing up the surfaces. A lot of instructional videos are saying you basically need to scratch the surfaces on say and AR finish. Is this the case or just a thorough cleaning will do?
The exact surface preparation steps you need to complete will depend upon the finish that is currently on the parts to be coated. In general though, the basic steps are to clean, rough up the surface, and coat. Cleaning and roughing up the surface are both critical to achieving proper adhesion. The slide in this video was previously Parkerized, so the surface didn't need to be roughed up much since Parkerizing is applied over a blasted surface. A typical AR15 is anodized. Anodizing does need to be lightly roughed up, without removing any anodizing, for proper adhesion. If you'd like advice on how to prepare the surface for your next project, feel free to give us a call at 1-800-830-6677 or send us an e-mail to info@lauerweaponry.com. We'd be happy to assist you!
I'm going to use the product on my Sig P225/P6 slide which is worn down to bare metal in the holster wear areas. Would the Duracoat cover up the markings on the Slide? If it is 1ml after four applications then I would worry about losing some of those factory markings. Tx.
Thank you for your interest in DuraCoat! If the markings you are referring to on your slide are factory markings, then as long as they were done to the proper, required depth (and have not been worn down to a shallower depth due to use) the 1 mil (1/1000th of an inch) of DuraCoat should not fill in the markings and render them unreadable. Keep in mind however, that if you are concerned about the markings, you can always apply slightly less DuraCoat to that area.
+TheFirefox8192 A hair dryer was used in this video to demonstrate one method that can be used to flash off the solvents between layers of DuraCoat. Blowing clean shop air or air from your spray equipment (if you're using equipment with that capability) onto the parts, or simply waiting 5 to 10 minutes between layers, will achieve the same results as using a hair dryer. Using a hair dryer or heat gun to assist in flashing off the solvents does not speed up the cure times of DuraCoat. It only helps you to complete the application process faster. If using a heat gun, be sure to use it on the lowest setting and make sure that the material you are using it on can withstand heat. We have heard from customers that DuraCoat can be buffed to a shine. We do not know the process of how to do it though and we have never tried it ourselves.
DuraCoat is a two-part, urethane-based coating designed specifically for firearms. It differs in a number of aspects from powder coating including application, applied thickness, user-friendliness, etc. DuraCoat can withstand temperatures up to 600 degrees Fahrenheit. If you need higher heat resistance, we recommend our DuraHeat 2.0 coating that can withstand temperatures up to 1500 degrees Fahrenheit.
I have a blued Taurus PT1911 and the factory finish is starting to rub off. If you DuraCoat a firearm... Does that void the factory warranty?? Do you have to strip all the factory finish off the metal parts?
In the case of a blued firearm, the bluing doesn't need to be completely removed before DuraCoating. The standard DuraCoat surface preparation procedure that needs to be completed before applying the DuraCoat will most likely result in most, if not all, of the bluing being removed anyway but it is not a requirement for the bluing to be completely removed. In regards to the firearm's warranty, you would need to contact Taurus to find out what their policy is regarding that.
I noticed you used some sort of handle in the barrel side to hold the slide while you were applying the DC. The DC could not have been applied to the inside barrel portion where the handle was. Did you do this on purpose or shouldn't the inside area of the slide where the barrel goes be done too?
DuraBake is a different product from DuraCoat. DuraBake is an oven-cured enamel that can be used on ferrous metals, stainless steel, aluminum, and alloys. The spray application procedure is the same as DuraCoat in that it should be applied in 3 to 4 thin, wet layers. Wait ten minutes in between layers to allow the solvents to flash off. Or, you can blow shop air on the parts for approximately 10 seconds to flash off the solvents. A hair dryer can be used if shop air is not available, however heat is not needed for flashing off the solvents. Once complete, allow the coated parts to sit for 20 minutes at room temperature before placing them in a coating-dedicated oven (not one that is also used for food).
DuraCoat can withstand temperatures up to 600 degrees Fahrenheit, which will not be enough to withstand the temperatures of a turbo manifold or a header. But we do have a product called DuraHeat, that can withstand temperatures up to 1,800 degrees Fahrenheit, that will work on those parts.
DuraCoat is dry to the touch in twenty minutes, you can handle it in an hour, and you can reassemble and use the firearm the next day. A full cure is achieved in 3 to 4 weeks. As was said, the firearm can be used before the full cure, but we only recommend light use as the coating is still susceptible to damage before the full cure is reached. When DuraCoating a lower receiver, the standard DuraCoat prep procedure should be followed. This procedure is as follows: First, completely clean the parts and remove all grease, gunk, dirt, and oil by using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser. Next, rough up the surface of the parts by either scuff sanding with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper or a maroon 3M Scotch-Brite pad or by blasting with either sand or 60 to 120 grit aluminum oxide. Then, blow off the parts using clean shop air. Finally, proceed to spray with DuraCoat.
konaok1 Once activated, the DuraCoat Aerosol will last anywhere from 12 to 48 hours, depending upon numerous factors which include weather conditions and location. The DuraCoat Aerosol contains enough DuraCoat to finish 2 to 4 firearms.
If using this on a bare stainless steel slide, duracoating it matte black, will the finish scrape off when reinstalling the rear sight during the drift process ?
john sims During the reinstallation of the rear sight, some DuraCoat may scrape off due to how tightly rear sights tend to fit. Any visible areas can simply be touched up immediately with Matte Black. To improve adhesion of the DuraCoat and reduce the chances/amount that this occurs, we recommend the following surface preparation procedure: 1) Completely clean the surface using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser 2) Blast the surface using 120 grit aluminum oxide 3) Blow off the blasting dust using clean shop air 4)Apply the DuraCoat.
I went to your official page and I can't find where to purchase that can on the video. It only shows a mixing bottle and some canned air appliance. Has it changed since the making of the video or where do I find it?
Thank you for your interest in our products! The DuraCoat Aerosol can be purchased by visiting our website: www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com. Using the menu at the top of the page, go to "Coatings" > "DuraCoat" > then click on the type of colors you're interested in ("Standard Colors", "Tactical Colors", etc.) Then, for example, if you chose "Standard Colors", select a color family (such as "Reds"). Once on the product page, select your color and then select either "12oz Aerosol Can" or "Aerosol Kit" from the "Application Type" dropdown menu. If you have any questions regarding this, feel free to give us a call at 1-800-830-6677. Thanks!
what did you use to hold the slide while you were spraying it? looks to be a metal bar? also how would you suggest storing the slide for the day you wait to re assemble the firearm?
The slide was held using a wooden dowel. The end of the dowel was wrapped with blue painter's tape in order to create a perfect fit. Once DuraCoated, the slide with the dowel in it should be propped up in a safe place so that no surface or object comes in contact with the freshly DuraCoated slide. It should also be placed in a room that has very little dust, debris, etc. floating around in the air.
Questions for you sir. I want to apply this coating to a pair of scissors. Should I sharpen the scissors first or after applying the finish? And does the coating affect the sharpness of the blades?
The standard prep procedure for DuraCoat is as follows: disassemble the firearm as far as you feel comfortable, then clean and degrease the parts using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser, next rough up the parts by either blasting with sand or aluminum oxide or by scuff sanding with 400-600 grit sandpaper, then blow off with clean shop air, and finally proceed to DuraCoat. DuraCoat is a rather thin coating so it will only fill in very minor scratches and pitting. For deep pitting, we have a product called DuraFil available that will fill in deep pitting and scratches prior to DuraCoating. Yes, DuraCoat can be sprayed over bluing that is still in good condition. Simply rough up the surface by sanding with 600 grit sandpaper (do not remove the bluing, just simply give it some texture) and then blow off the sanding dust with clean shop air and proceed to DuraCoat. If the bluing is in rough shape, has began to rust in places, and/or has come off in areas then it will need to be completely removed before DuraCoating. If there is rust, be sure to completely remove all of the rust before DuraCoating.
+Gary Clouse Blast before unless it has a lot of grease, if so, both. I always degrease right before applying any coating while wearing clean latex/poly gloves so oils in your skin don't affect finish adhesion.
Is it scratchless like the original color of a gun ? is it reliable as the original color ? i have 12 gauge double barral shot gun made in ussr by Baikal can i use it for that ? weather it works like the previous color .from pakistan .
DuraCoat will work great on your shotgun! What type of finish/coating is currently on your shotgun? Once fully cured, DuraCoat has outstanding resistance to scratching and chipping and is resistant to all solvents and cleaners. It also has outstanding resistance against rust and corrosion.
+Crane 2005 DuraCoat was created specifically for durability on firearms. Therefore, DuraCoat should last a very long time before wear begins to occur. Any coating will eventually wear over time. How fast it wears on a specific area will depend upon the type of area, type of use, etc. DuraCoat can be applied to a heavier thickness on high wear areas if needed.
will spraying this on the slide cause any kind of friction problems since its supposed to be oiled in some areas and slide freely ?? and will oiling cause any problems putting it on?
+David Woog DuraCoat should not cause any tolerance or functioning problems when applied to a handgun slide. Also, once cured, DuraCoated surfaces can be oiled with the oil of your choice. DuraCoat is also available in a self-lubricating version that is intended specifically for moving parts. Before DuraCoating any parts, be sure to completely clean the surface to remove any existing oil or grime and also rough up the surfaces to ensure proper adhesion.
Mr. Lauer, if I end up with a couple of light runs in the Dura-Coat, can I just wipe it away with my finger and spray over again, or what would you recommend I do??? please let me know, as it's the only thing holding me up from purchasing your products? Thanks, and I hope to hear back?
Thank you for your interest in our products! DuraCoat is a very user-friendly coating, so runs are not common. However, if you do experience a run, one way to fix the issue is to finish applying the DuraCoat and then allow the part to air dry for a few hours until the DuraCoat is able to be sanded. Then, lightly sand the area of the run with 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth it out. Next, blow off the sanding dust using clean, shop air and then touch-up the area with more DuraCoat.
DuraCoat works great on Parkerized surfaces! DuraCoat has earned a reputation for its outstanding durability and abrasion resistance. When properly applied, and allowed to fully cure, DuraCoat has excellent resistance to scratching. Holsters are a source of high-wear for firearm finishes, so over time the finish will wear on points of contact with the holster, but it should last a very long time before this occurs.
I met this guy several years ago when he was shooting with his friends. Great group of guys. Didn't realize who he was at the time. Generous, friendly bunch. Gonna get some tactical green for a Ar15 build I'm doing.
Applied duracoat a couple weeks ago to a LC9S that was showing a lot of wear. Couldn't be happier with the results. I went ahead and did the slide and frame.. It looks awesome.
Word of advice though, be patient after you're finished. It takes a few weeks for the paint to cure. I got impatient and putting the gun back together and marked up the finish a little putting the sights back on. Wasn't a huge deal, but I ended up lightly sanding and reshooting it with duracoat. I've left it alone this time.. Looks great
If you have a old gun that has seen better days, give it a try. It will make it look great. Just be patient. It was a fun project to do and I love the results. I used the kit where you mix the paint and harder yourself and comes with a spray can, reducer, and scotch pad.. That's everything you need and can use the left over paint for another project.
I've duracoated several of my firearms. I have found the more time you take with prep the better results you end up with.
Do you think it's nessesary to get the cleaner he used in the beginning? If not is there something I might have at home I could use?
+BAbassfishin I've heard of people using brake or transmission cleaner. ISO alcohol is a great way of cleaning oil from firearms. Beware of any sort of cleaner that leaves a residue; that can ruin the adherence of the paint.
+BAbassfishin We recommend using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser. It was formulated to cut through the grease and oils found on firearms and it also dries quickly and doesn't leave a residue.
+zaqzilla1 You are exactly correct in that it is very important that the cleaner does not leave a residue. We typically don't recommend using isopropyl alcohol as a cleaner though since it is typically not strong enough to cut through the grease and oils found on firearms. We recommend using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser because it was formulated to cut through the grease and oils on firearms.
DuraCoat Firearm Finishes my gun is flat black cerakoted, but it has scratches, would I need to remove the cerakote?
Dude, I've been in the industrial coating industry in the past for 15 yrs and safety equipment is important. Proper ventilation and personal protective gear I see you've a spray booth but not operating and no mask and the cleaning process without rubber gloves and ventilation. You wanna live long enough to make all this invention worth while you should use it.
Do you happen to know whether or not you could use this for hydro dipping a firearm?
Yes, DuraCoat can be used as the base coat. We have a special clear called DuraClear Sealant that is specifically designed for hydrographics.
this dude is real cool i talked to him over the phone,,,,he took my order a couple times.....
I used DuraPark on my Uzi. I had a little problem with the coat at first, but the company made it right. This is a great company that I highly recommend. The finish is quite nice.
Yes, we plan to continually add to the colors that the DuraCoat Aerosol is available in. Magpul OD Green and the Tactical line will all most likely be a part of the colors that are added to the DuraCoat Aerosol line over time.
A hair dryer was used in this video as a simple, do-it-yourself way to flash off the solvents in between layers of DuraCoat. This could always be done with all of our DuraCoat products using a hair dryer, heat gun, shop air, fan, etc.
I duracoated my AK last year. I was surprised how well it holds up....Just bought a can of the new aerosol in parker for my sks...I hope it does as well as the other stuff.
Michael Ryan
How did it work?
I'm thinking of doing a sks ! How did yours go?
ramairgto72 If you are referring to the M-715 military vehicle, yes, DuraCoat will work great on it! We have had many, many customers use DuraCoat with excellent success on their vehicles. Just be sure to request our UV Hardener with your DuraCoat so that you do not experience any color fading.
DuraCoat Firearm Finishes, Will it work on a boat outdrive that has been filled with Devcon in many places?
Duracoat
I just found out about this product and will be using it on my Savage 110 30-06 rifle coming up.. Thanks for the great video..
Nice product, I hope you have lots of success with it.
Can't wait to see more colors added! Every firearm, knife, multi-tool I own wears Duracoat with pride. I think my grill is next. Keep up the good work and keep bringing us these awesome products!
Lou S. Makes an excellent point. If you only have a couple of small parts to paint, you've thrown $35 away if you can't find something worthwhile to use the rest of it on in 48 hours! And yes, there ARE people out there who have a firearm hobby, but don't have a lot to spend on it. If you have money to blow, I'm happy for you. But that's no reason to look down your nose at someone who is frugal, for whatever reason.
Great demo, and thank you for the information on pot life and prices!
You should add Audrey's Blue and Beaming Blue to your line for an AR Build I am planning.
Cool! No more mixing! I am going to do my Springfield 1911 RO frame in OD!
thanks for the video. just bought my duracoat today. gonna fix up my 1911 as soon as i can.
Thank you for purchasing DuraCoat! We appreciate your business. If you have any questions or need any assistance, please feel free to contact us by phone or e-mail!
+kinkydoints When properly applied, DuraCoat should not cause any tolerances issues with the areas of the Glock you mentioned or anywhere on the Glock. If your Glock slide has been treated with Tenifer, we recommend either scuff sanding the slide with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper or blasting with 120 grit aluminum oxide to ensure proper adhesion of the DuraCoat. We also recommend this same surface preparation procedure for the frame since most plastics are petroleum-based and this procedure will again help ensure proper adhesion. If blasting, be sure to begin with the pressure very low and test on an inconspicuous spot on the frame to ensure no damage to the frame occurs.
+LONEONE STAR We are the manufacturers of DuraCoat. We are not the manufacturers of the aerosol can. The aerosol can is manufactured by a different company and is used in many different industries.
+LONEONE STAR You're welcome! Thank you!
+DuraCoat Firearm Finishes So is it okay to use extra coats of different Duracoat for a camo pattern? Would you wait the full 3 weeks for curing before applying additional coatings?
How many colors (cans) are too many? I want an ACU camo pattern and I believe that requires 4 colors.
Export it man!!!!!!!
+John Kennedy Yes, you can use multiple DuraCoat colors to create a camo pattern. The base coat should be applied using 3-4 thin, wet layers. This is the same as if you were only doing a single color on the firearm. This will provide the protection layer. All other colors added after are only for decoration, so only apply enough DuraCoat to provide the proper color and hide the color underneath. When completing a camo pattern, we recommend waiting a minimum of 2-3 hours after applying a color before applying templates and spraying another color. DuraCoat has a seven day working period however, so just be sure to complete the entire project within seven days after spraying the base coat.
All of the camo pattern kits we offer (they're not available in an aerosol can kit however) can be found on our website here: www.lauerweaponry.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=category.display&category_ID=829. A four-color camo pattern will not be too many colors. As long as the application instructions are followed correctly and layers are applied in a thin manner, there shouldn't be tolerance issues from too much DuraCoat being applied.
That would be great for camping tools , knives, shovels , hatchets
Or anything you might need something tougher than just paint alone
I'd like to see Burnt bronze be added to your color lineup.
We are hoping to expand the DuraCoat Aerosol color lineup to include many of our other color lines including the Metal Collection (which includes numerous bronze colors), the Tactical line, and others. We are currently in the research and development stage but are hoping to expand the DuraCoat Aerosol lineup sometime in the near future.
Just love the Safety Sally comments.
Looks attractive. I want to use it on a build when I am done with the one I am currently on
It's possible I didn't prep completely but I applied the Duracoat as instructed to the slide of my 1911 and it was really pretty for the first 6 months before it started to chip off.
I won't use it again.
We are sorry to hear that your project didn't turn out. If you are experiencing chipping, then the surface was contaminated or needed to be roughed up more. Please contact us directly via phone or email if you would like to discuss your project further.
And I agree, 60 bucks a can is rough with shipping.
does the layers of paint interfere with the tolerances and actions/fitment of the gun?
DuraCoat should be applied between 0.5 and 1.5 mils so it will not affect the tolerances of the parts.
i knew selling my soul was going to lead to something good this year.
thanks for the quick reply.
after seeing how easy it is. I found a few more items to DC, lol.
thanks I'll be ordering a wolf gray.
+RhinoCable You're welcome! Thank you for using DuraCoat!
Outstanding! Semper Fi
I will be looking for that smaller less expensive can, LOL.
You folks are awsome and give the best customer support. Cerakote could take some lessons from you.
Thanks keep up the good work!
Thank you for your kind words and for using our products! We appreciate it!
How about 1/2 size cans
If its as good as your other products then I will be buying a few cans. I have refinished two rifles and could not be happier.
no complaints or trash talking? well, I suppose it's time to order! yaaaay!
After using two cans of this (Matte Black and Blackhawk Coyote Tan) I have to say, both colors came out full on glossy. Using a hair dryer did not help either. Shame, because I really wanted this to work well. I ended up mixing up other colors with the flattening agent to make my rifle look the way I wanted it to look.
geists2k We are sorry to hear that you were dissatisfied with your results with our DuraCoat Aerosol. Due to the UV Hardener in the DuraCoat Aerosol, the sheen on all colors will be glossy at first. The sheen should slowly settle down to its proper level (that would be a matte sheen for both of our Matte Black and BlackHawk Coyote Tan colors) after about 3 to 4 weeks. If the colors were still glossy after 3 to 4 weeks, then something during the application process may have caused the increase in sheen. It sounds as though you were able to resolve the issue on your own, but we still encourage you to give us a call at 1-800-830-6677 or send us an e-mail to info[at]lauerweaponry[.]com. We would be happy to discuss the issue with you and we would also work to rectify the situation in whatever way possible. Our customer service hours are: Monday - Friday 7am - 5pm CST.
when using this product, would I also duracoat any internal parts or is this designed forbonly slides, frames, etc?
+Mike Teves DuraCoat can be used on both the external and internal parts of a firearm. We recommend our DuraCoat SL (Self-Lubricating) for moving parts. The areas that you decide to coat is up to you. Two areas that you should never coat are inside of the barrel and the bolt face (the surface of the bolt that meets the back of the cartridge). Any areas that you don't want to coat should be masked/plugged before coating.
A few questions, First does sand blasting the part to be Duracoated give it better adhesion? Second it looked as if all that was needed was a hairdryer between coatings, but after the 4th coat, how long does it take to cure and does it need to be baked?
Media blasting the parts with either sand or 60 to 120 grit aluminum oxide before DuraCoating is always recommended when someone has the access and ability to do so. A blasted surface will provide the optimum substrate for DuraCoat to adhere to.
DuraCoat is dry to the touch in twenty minutes, you can handle it in an hour, and you can reassemble and use the item the next day. Only submit the item to light use at this time though. A full cure is reached in 3-4 weeks. DuraCoat does not need to be baked. You can bake DuraCoat to speed up the initial dry time but it will not speed up the final cure time and will not make the DuraCoat any more durable. The hairdryer in the video was used as a simple method of speeding up the flashing off of the solvents in between coats. The use of the hairdryer speeds up the process but has the same effect as leaving the part sit for 5-10 minutes in between coats.
I'm thinking of using this to paint the stainless steel slide on my S&W SD9VE to black.
Thank you for considering DuraCoat for your firearm! DuraCoat will work great on your slide!
Did you do it?
706d I'm about to do the same. I'll let you know of the results :)
I'm on the fence between this and WHeeler Cerama-Coat
oh, for my sd9ve and sd40ve. and maybe my CZ70
I have duracoated on my 1911 grips and slide looks nice doesn’t scratch easy it’s pretty tough not like just a paint
if I wanted to keep my sights on the slide, what ways would you recommend to cover them before applying DC?
The only option in that situation would be to mask off the sights prior to coating using masking tape.
1 What color is this your spraying. In the video it looks more grey than black.
2 No satin-y type colors?
3 How many rifles would that can paint?
4 How many pistols would that can paint?
Thanks
MJ
1. The color being sprayed in the main instructional portion of the video is our #4-Matte Black. The lighting in the video and also computer monitors cause the color to look grayish but it is indeed Matte Black being sprayed.
2. All of our colors are a matte finish unless otherwise noted in the color name. For example, our color #5-Semigloss Black (HK).
3. The DuraCoat Aerosol contains 4 ounces of the DuraCoat color of your choice and can coat up to two complete rifles, depending on the size of the rifles and the number of accessories.
4. The DuraCoat Aerosol can coat up to four complete handguns, again depending on the size of the handguns and the number of accessories.
Thank you for Duracoat i love it
Because i think your product is good, I ordered a shake-n-spray kit a few days ago to see if i have better luck with this system than the actual aerosol can . Hopefully i will have better results .
Hiram Redlegs Great! Thank you! If you have any questions, issues, or comments before, during, or after using the kit just let us know!
Do I need to bake in oven after applying Dura Coat?
+p pollaccia No, DuraCoat is an air-cured product. DuraCoat can be baked to speed up the initial dry time, so that you can handle and reassemble sooner, but it isn't required and doesn't make it any more durable.
Nice product
Mite look nice on a set of car wheels to
Hey its Herbert
I’m 80 percent ready to repaint my 1911 myself now. Thank you. Just need to know what to mask off, and I’ll be 100% ready
Great! What exactly are you planning on coating?
Duracote Issss The Besssst..
fredrickson1 nah cerakote is
Can I duracoat raw 1018 steel after I sandblast the top layer of material off of it? Is this a bad idea should I just pay someone to blue it professionally?
No need to answer my question, I found your answer in another response. I see you've been nice enough already to repeat the same answer over, and over, and over again! Lol! I won't make you!
So you used the can of duracoat on the barrel of the weapon and after your done can the can be used again and again or is once the hardener comes into contact with the finishing product and you done with the barrel need to be discarded since it will harden in the can or can I reuse it several weeks later on another barrel.
Once the can has been activated (the Hardener released into the rest of the can), the DuraCoat Aerosol is usable for up to four weeks depending upon environmental conditions. The DuraCoat Aerosol UV, for use on items with 24/7 outdoor exposure, is usable for up to 48 hours after activation. Also, on a side note, when DuraCoating a barrel be sure to never coat the inside of the barrel.
Can I do my M-715 in this?
I'm half kidding.
But....why not?
Yes I had the same problem the can wanted to clog up or spit it out I had to hurry and try to get it off with thinner I tried twice with the same results then ran out maybe just a bad can not sure I'm an automotive refinisher and next time might find a product I can spray using a small cutin spray gun
telh74 We are sorry to hear that you experienced that issue. That is not a typical result of our DuraCoat Aerosol and we will gladly work with you to rectify this situation. Please give us a call at 1-800-830-6677 or send us an e-mail to info[at]lauerweaponry[.]com. We will help determine why this issue may have occurred and we will also work to rectify this situation in whatever way works best for you.We offer our DuraCoat product in many different application methods in order to accommodate all individuals. DuraCoat in its original form is sold in a liquid in numerous different size bottles. It can be mixed and sprayed through many different kinds of spray equipment. This form of DuraCoat may be more suited to your preferences and we encourage you to give it a try.
how many cans would it take to do a shotgun with and extended mag tube?
+Frank Garrett One DuraCoat Aerosol can should be more than enough to complete that size project and you will most likely have some DuraCoat leftover.
Are you still living in Stilwell Oklahoma?
Just picked up a can can't wait to try it out.
so using this aerosol there is no need for a oven bake? just hair dryer or heat gun?
DuraCoat is an air-cured product, no matter which method you're using to apply it (aerosol or spray equipment), and so no baking is needed. The hair dryer was used as a simple way to blow air on the surface in between each layer of DuraCoat in order to flash off the solvents. The flashing off of the solvents can also be achieved by waiting ten minutes between each layer. If using air, the air does not need to be hot, it just needs to be blowing air. A heat gun can be used but only on its lowest setting. Also, make sure that the material you are using it on can withstand that heat without damaging it. But like we said, heat is not necessary.
Is DuraCoat heat-resistantance when cured sufficient for a motorcycle exhaust?
Can I use this product on motorcycle parts like disk brake calipers and hot engine parts.
What I mean is if the duracoat paint hold up with heat and other things
Cool, however you should be wearing some nitrile gloves dude! And most likely a respirator, this stuff is nasty for your health.
Always wear protective gloves, eyewear, and an approved respirator when working with any of our products. You should also always work in a well-ventilated area. Be sure to read all warnings, first aid information, and product instructions before using any of our products. This is indicated in both annotation and card form in the video.
That hair dryer is insane. . .
Only problem I find with your technique is that as a professional you should have used gloves to handle the item. Oils from your hands contaminate it as you handle it. You pulled a Homer there - LoL
You are correct in that a person should always wear gloves when working with DuraCoat and handling the parts to be coated.
Don't use gloves and you would have a great chance to have eczema is a short-term future and psoriasis in a long-term future. Also, use a good mask, equipped with an activated coal filter.
And not 'heat gun blowing over a pressurized can'?
This looks great. I think I could actually do this myself. Do you think DC would stick to a gun that has been previously NP3ed? I just want to change the color to more standard firearm colors than shiny gray nickel color that NP3 ends up.
Was going to Re Blu a yugo sks
Now I'm re thinking
Is there any added benefit if the gun parts are warmed in say a Toaster Oven or regular Oven to maybe 100-120° to prior to applying Duracoat to open the pores of the metal??
Or warming after applying Duracoat to help harden?.... like what is done with Automotive painting
We do not recommend heating parts before coating. We have not seen any added benefit from doing so. In fact, this typically leads to negative results as the heat draws out the oils from deep within the metal surface and can cause adhesion issues. You can bake metal parts (in a coating-dedicated industrial oven) after coating with DuraCoat to speed up the initial dry time. This will allow you to handle and reassemble the parts sooner. However, this does not speed up the full cure time and does not make the coating any more durable.
40 bucks for a can when I can just pay a pro 60 to do it...
Willis Fleming the point is doing it yourself. also, please let me know who the pro is that will mix the color, sand, and refinish to a professional final product for 60 dollars...I highly doubt it. no way he's making profit and justifying labor.
And my point is that it's more cost effective to pay a professional to do it so you don't fuck it up because you're dumb😂😂😂 And the guy I use charges 60 bucks to duracoat and 80 for hydrodip... Haha you must be up north somewhere getting ripped off....
I bet hes using dupli color for them cheap ass prices or shitty prep work and 80 for hydro dip tf he's got his prices backwards lmao coating a gun takes more time and heating cost dipping is easy af i worked for a cellphone repair shop that did dipping on guns ps4s xboxs etc
Nah it's duracoat, same prices for powder coat too.
I blast everything 100-120 grit to bare aluminum and plastics i just scotch brite good results so far
I'm restoring an old double barrel and want to know if its necessary or will it give me better results to remove the bluing from the barrels before hitting it with the matte black.
+Jack Stone If the bluing is in good condition with no rust, then there is no need to completely remove it before applying DuraCoat. Simply follow the standard surface preparation procedure of cleaning, roughing up the surface, and coating. If the bluing is in poor condition and rust is present then all rust must be removed before coating, which may require all of the bluing to be removed as well depending upon the condition.
I bought the Aerosol can in magpul flat dark earth color. It works as intended and couldn't be easier. It just takes some time to prepare it before applying the paint. Only question I have is how long should I wait before pulling out any masking tape that I applied to my lower and upper receiver to cover certain areas not to be painted?
In this scenario, you should wait at least until the next day before removing the masking tape.
I am in need of stripping the bluing and rust off a gun barrel. Is this spray an alternative to typical bluing of a barrel?
+Colby W. Yes, DuraCoat is a two-part firearm coating that is available in over 300 different colors and offers outstanding durability. We also have a product called DuraBlue that replicates the look of traditional bluing while also offering the durability that DuraCoat is known for. Be sure to completely remove all of the existing bluing and rust before coating with any of our products.
I have a lower that needs some clean up as far as machining marks. If I sand those marks out, which would take the parkerized finish off in those areas, would it be a problem if I then coated it in Goddess Purple?
Basically, if parts of my lower are bare aluminium & parts are parkerized, would it all match after coating it in Goddess Purple?
+shananagans5 Yes, all of the parts will look the same after coating with DuraCoat. Just make sure to thoroughly clean all of the parts using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser prior to sanding out the machining marks. Then, once your finished sanding, simply blow off the sanding dust with clean shop air and spray with DuraCoat.
Got an extremely rough colt saa thinking of doing this seems easy enough
NO NO NO not a on a Colt SAA
Very informative!
if u dont finish a can with the projects at hand, how long do you have before the dura coat in the can renders useless once activated? just wondering the amount of time between projects i have or do i have to line up all my projects before hand to get them done before the cans expired
Once activated, you have up to 48 hours to use the DuraCoat Aerosol before it will become unusable. The DuraCoat Aerosol contains 4oz of DuraCoat, which can coat up to two complete rifles or four handguns, so we recommend having all of your projects prepped and ready to go before activating the can.
I apologize if I missed this but can I expect to get an AR15 lower receiver, upper receiver and 15" handguard completed with a single can? Thanks.
Yes you can! One can contains enough DuraCoat that you should be able to complete two sets of the parts that you mentioned.
It doesn't look like you're scuffing up the surfaces. A lot of instructional videos are saying you basically need to scratch the surfaces on say and AR finish. Is this the case or just a thorough cleaning will do?
The exact surface preparation steps you need to complete will depend upon the finish that is currently on the parts to be coated. In general though, the basic steps are to clean, rough up the surface, and coat. Cleaning and roughing up the surface are both critical to achieving proper adhesion. The slide in this video was previously Parkerized, so the surface didn't need to be roughed up much since Parkerizing is applied over a blasted surface. A typical AR15 is anodized. Anodizing does need to be lightly roughed up, without removing any anodizing, for proper adhesion. If you'd like advice on how to prepare the surface for your next project, feel free to give us a call at 1-800-830-6677 or send us an e-mail to info@lauerweaponry.com. We'd be happy to assist you!
DuraCoat Firearm Finishes picked some up today! Thanks so much!
Can this be used on a blued rifle barrel? Does the bluing have scuffed up, or removed? Or, just cleaned thoroughly?
Thanx!
Yes, this can be applied over a blued barrel. You will need degrease first, then rough up with sandpaper or a scotchbrite pad before coating.
Thank you!
I'm going to use the product on my Sig P225/P6 slide which is worn down to bare metal in the holster wear areas. Would the Duracoat cover up the markings on the Slide? If it is 1ml after four applications then I would worry about losing some of those factory markings.
Tx.
Thank you for your interest in DuraCoat! If the markings you are referring to on your slide are factory markings, then as long as they were done to the proper, required depth (and have not been worn down to a shallower depth due to use) the 1 mil (1/1000th of an inch) of DuraCoat should not fill in the markings and render them unreadable. Keep in mind however, that if you are concerned about the markings, you can always apply slightly less DuraCoat to that area.
can a heat gun be used on all duracoat to speed up curingtime. Can the flat black be buffed to a shine ASAP!
+TheFirefox8192 A hair dryer was used in this video to demonstrate one method that can be used to flash off the solvents between layers of DuraCoat. Blowing clean shop air or air from your spray equipment (if you're using equipment with that capability) onto the parts, or simply waiting 5 to 10 minutes between layers, will achieve the same results as using a hair dryer. Using a hair dryer or heat gun to assist in flashing off the solvents does not speed up the cure times of DuraCoat. It only helps you to complete the application process faster. If using a heat gun, be sure to use it on the lowest setting and make sure that the material you are using it on can withstand heat.
We have heard from customers that DuraCoat can be buffed to a shine. We do not know the process of how to do it though and we have never tried it ourselves.
What did you use to hold your slide? I was thinking it may be the barrel stuck in backwards? Doesn’t hold as firmly as yours does in the video
We use wooden dowels. For a tight fit, we add blue masking tape around the dowel until snug.
So is this paint? How does this compare to powder coat? Is this high temp resistant? Can it be used on engine cylinders for example
DuraCoat is a two-part, urethane-based coating designed specifically for firearms. It differs in a number of aspects from powder coating including application, applied thickness, user-friendliness, etc. DuraCoat can withstand temperatures up to 600 degrees Fahrenheit. If you need higher heat resistance, we recommend our DuraHeat 2.0 coating that can withstand temperatures up to 1500 degrees Fahrenheit.
I have a blued Taurus PT1911 and the factory finish is starting to rub off. If you DuraCoat a firearm... Does that void the factory warranty?? Do you have to strip all the factory finish off the metal parts?
In the case of a blued firearm, the bluing doesn't need to be completely removed before DuraCoating. The standard DuraCoat surface preparation procedure that needs to be completed before applying the DuraCoat will most likely result in most, if not all, of the bluing being removed anyway but it is not a requirement for the bluing to be completely removed. In regards to the firearm's warranty, you would need to contact Taurus to find out what their policy is regarding that.
I noticed you used some sort of handle in the barrel side to hold the slide while you were applying the DC. The DC could not have been applied to the inside barrel portion where the handle was. Did you do this on purpose or shouldn't the inside area of the slide where the barrel goes be done too?
We used a wooden dowel to hold the slide. DuraCoat can be used on the inside of the slide if you choose to.
Do you use the same technique when applying "Durabake"? Using very light coats and flash between coats with hairdryer?
DuraBake is a different product from DuraCoat. DuraBake is an oven-cured enamel that can be used on ferrous metals, stainless steel, aluminum, and alloys. The spray application procedure is the same as DuraCoat in that it should be applied in 3 to 4 thin, wet layers. Wait ten minutes in between layers to allow the solvents to flash off. Or, you can blow shop air on the parts for approximately 10 seconds to flash off the solvents. A hair dryer can be used if shop air is not available, however heat is not needed for flashing off the solvents. Once complete, allow the coated parts to sit for 20 minutes at room temperature before placing them in a coating-dedicated oven (not one that is also used for food).
how much heat will this handle? for example a turbo manifold, or some headers...
DuraCoat can withstand temperatures up to 600 degrees Fahrenheit, which will not be enough to withstand the temperatures of a turbo manifold or a header. But we do have a product called DuraHeat, that can withstand temperatures up to 1,800 degrees Fahrenheit, that will work on those parts.
whats the cure time after the 4th coat? and does the lower receiver have to be sanded before spraying or just cleaned???
DuraCoat is dry to the touch in twenty minutes, you can handle it in an hour, and you can reassemble and use the firearm the next day. A full cure is achieved in 3 to 4 weeks. As was said, the firearm can be used before the full cure, but we only recommend light use as the coating is still susceptible to damage before the full cure is reached. When DuraCoating a lower receiver, the standard DuraCoat prep procedure should be followed. This procedure is as follows: First, completely clean the parts and remove all grease, gunk, dirt, and oil by using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser. Next, rough up the surface of the parts by either scuff sanding with 400 to 600 grit sandpaper or a maroon 3M Scotch-Brite pad or by blasting with either sand or 60 to 120 grit aluminum oxide. Then, blow off the parts using clean shop air. Finally, proceed to spray with DuraCoat.
Once it is mixed and shaken, how long will it be usable? at $50 a can it find it expensive to do 1 or 2 items
konaok1 Once activated, the DuraCoat Aerosol will last anywhere from 12 to 48 hours, depending upon numerous factors which include weather conditions and location. The DuraCoat Aerosol contains enough DuraCoat to finish 2 to 4 firearms.
Please come out with more colors. It would be good for quick jobs. I would like to see HK black.
man your going to do great this paint
Would it work for Barrels? I would like to refinish a fluted AR barrel that has some scratches...
Yes, definitely. DuraCoat can be applied to all types of barrels.
If using this on a bare stainless steel slide, duracoating it matte black, will the finish scrape off when reinstalling the rear sight during the drift process ?
john sims During the reinstallation of the rear sight, some DuraCoat may scrape off due to how tightly rear sights tend to fit. Any visible areas can simply be touched up immediately with Matte Black. To improve adhesion of the DuraCoat and reduce the chances/amount that this occurs, we recommend the following surface preparation procedure: 1) Completely clean the surface using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser 2) Blast the surface using 120 grit aluminum oxide 3) Blow off the blasting dust using clean shop air 4)Apply the DuraCoat.
I went to your official page and I can't find where to purchase that can on the video. It only shows a mixing bottle and some canned air appliance. Has it changed since the making of the video or where do I find it?
Thank you for your interest in our products! The DuraCoat Aerosol can be purchased by visiting our website: www.duracoatfirearmfinishes.com. Using the menu at the top of the page, go to "Coatings" > "DuraCoat" > then click on the type of colors you're interested in ("Standard Colors", "Tactical Colors", etc.) Then, for example, if you chose "Standard Colors", select a color family (such as "Reds"). Once on the product page, select your color and then select either "12oz Aerosol Can" or "Aerosol Kit" from the "Application Type" dropdown menu. If you have any questions regarding this, feel free to give us a call at 1-800-830-6677. Thanks!
what did you use to hold the slide while you were spraying it? looks to be a metal bar? also how would you suggest storing the slide for the day you wait to re assemble the firearm?
The slide was held using a wooden dowel. The end of the dowel was wrapped with blue painter's tape in order to create a perfect fit. Once DuraCoated, the slide with the dowel in it should be propped up in a safe place so that no surface or object comes in contact with the freshly DuraCoated slide. It should also be placed in a room that has very little dust, debris, etc. floating around in the air.
I have a battle worn mak 90 with the blueing missing in certain spots, will this work on the surface of the gun and make it look new?
Yes! DuraCoat will work great on your rifle and have it looking fresh and new!
That mullet though!
Questions for you sir. I want to apply this coating to a pair of scissors. Should I sharpen the scissors first or after applying the finish? And does the coating affect the sharpness of the blades?
You should sharpen after coating. This way, the sharpness won't be affected.
Other than degreasing, what metal [prep should be done? Will this fill and cover light pitting? Can it be sprayed over old bluing?
The standard prep procedure for DuraCoat is as follows: disassemble the firearm as far as you feel comfortable, then clean and degrease the parts using our TruStrip Cleaner/Degreaser, next rough up the parts by either blasting with sand or aluminum oxide or by scuff sanding with 400-600 grit sandpaper, then blow off with clean shop air, and finally proceed to DuraCoat. DuraCoat is a rather thin coating so it will only fill in very minor scratches and pitting. For deep pitting, we have a product called DuraFil available that will fill in deep pitting and scratches prior to DuraCoating. Yes, DuraCoat can be sprayed over bluing that is still in good condition. Simply rough up the surface by sanding with 600 grit sandpaper (do not remove the bluing, just simply give it some texture) and then blow off the sanding dust with clean shop air and proceed to DuraCoat. If the bluing is in rough shape, has began to rust in places, and/or has come off in areas then it will need to be completely removed before DuraCoating. If there is rust, be sure to completely remove all of the rust before DuraCoating.
LCWDuraCoat Thanks, I can't wait to try this.
That answered my question about aluminum oxide blasting. Do I blast before or after degreasing.
+Gary Clouse Blast before unless it has a lot of grease, if so, both. I always degrease right before applying any coating while wearing clean latex/poly gloves so oils in your skin don't affect finish adhesion.
Is it scratchless like the original color of a gun ?
is it reliable as the original color ?
i have 12 gauge double barral shot gun made in ussr by Baikal can i use it for that ?
weather it works like the previous color .from pakistan .
DuraCoat will work great on your shotgun! What type of finish/coating is currently on your shotgun? Once fully cured, DuraCoat has outstanding resistance to scratching and chipping and is resistant to all solvents and cleaners. It also has outstanding resistance against rust and corrosion.
how long does this last before needing to be recoated? does it wear out on the areas that are being handled often?
+Crane 2005 DuraCoat was created specifically for durability on firearms. Therefore, DuraCoat should last a very long time before wear begins to occur. Any coating will eventually wear over time. How fast it wears on a specific area will depend upon the type of area, type of use, etc. DuraCoat can be applied to a heavier thickness on high wear areas if needed.
will spraying this on the slide cause any kind of friction problems since its supposed to be oiled in some areas and slide freely ?? and will oiling cause any problems putting it on?
+David Woog DuraCoat should not cause any tolerance or functioning problems when applied to a handgun slide. Also, once cured, DuraCoated surfaces can be oiled with the oil of your choice. DuraCoat is also available in a self-lubricating version that is intended specifically for moving parts. Before DuraCoating any parts, be sure to completely clean the surface to remove any existing oil or grime and also rough up the surfaces to ensure proper adhesion.
Ok thank you
Mr. Lauer, if I end up with a couple of light runs in the Dura-Coat, can I just wipe it away with my finger and spray over again, or what would you recommend I do??? please let me know, as it's the only thing holding me up from purchasing your products? Thanks, and I hope to hear back?
Thank you for your interest in our products! DuraCoat is a very user-friendly coating, so runs are not common. However, if you do experience a run, one way to fix the issue is to finish applying the DuraCoat and then allow the part to air dry for a few hours until the DuraCoat is able to be sanded. Then, lightly sand the area of the run with 1000 grit sandpaper to smooth it out. Next, blow off the sanding dust using clean, shop air and then touch-up the area with more DuraCoat.
Have a 1942 German K98, needs rebluing.. They had a semi-gloss black finish. Do I risk it?
Our HK Semigloss Black would likely be similar to the original finish and would hold up better compared to traditional bluing.
Can I spray duracoat onto my parkerized finish 1911? Is the coat scratch resistance as I holster my gun a lot
DuraCoat works great on Parkerized surfaces! DuraCoat has earned a reputation for its outstanding durability and abrasion resistance. When properly applied, and allowed to fully cure, DuraCoat has excellent resistance to scratching. Holsters are a source of high-wear for firearm finishes, so over time the finish will wear on points of contact with the holster, but it should last a very long time before this occurs.
Well I know what I'm using on my next build