My drift car, the beams red trueno coupe, weighed ~2200lbs with a stripped interior and full roll cage. With the supercharger setup it's probably around 2300lbs
Been silently wishing for a good adjustable ackermann knuckle for awhile, I like this kit. Will they be adding any locating dowels on the knuckles? Also I assume the knuckle is shorter than PS knuckle length? By how much? If the price point is decent I'm interested in running this on my "do everything" car.
I'll see if I can do a side by side comparison of a PS knuckle and this to see the distance difference. Tbh I'm not sure how much the locating dowels matter with a good set of bolts, but it is possible they'd add them.
@@DoctoredGarage my concern about dowels is purely anecdotal, but I have seen people shear bolts on NRCA's without dowels. Even if shear isn't a concern, I'd be curious about shifting of alignment under heavy grip loads (sticky tire grip driving). I like this kit either way and it looks like the best option for a do-all frontend setup.
Woah I've never seen that before! I've only seen stuff like that happen when the wrong bolts are used or if they weren't torqued down all the way. NRCAs have a little different forces put on the bolts too. Hmm. Justin from Just Engineering is a mechanical engineer, I was talking to him just the other day about some of the stress testing they do with design. They do some really through testing. I'll mention the dowels to him and your experience.
@@DoctoredGarage again, purely anecdotal. Entirely possible they had some low grade hardware store bolts in there. Just something I always had in the back of my head as a concern. Look forward to seeing more about this setup!
Yeah you still need a place for the strut dampening adjuster to come through at. I'm not sure how much cutting it will take comparatively yet though, I haven't tried installing yet.
Once I get the front brakes and wheel bearings done I'll check. But from what I could tell, the limiting factor for angle will be wheel/tire to frame rail. I need to see how far I can extend the control arms and still keep good camber.
So for tension rods I bought some megan brand cheaper ones cause I can’t afford better brands, and was wondering if I set it up and down instead of how you say horizontally, does it make a huge WEAR difference? I noticed the bolt and heim joint they provide is too large/wide to install horizontal because the bolt hits the tension rod bracket. I was thinking to get a different bolt with a low rounded end for better clearance, but that still would leave the nut end hitting being the bolt ends revolve around the heim joint. Not sure if this is okay or it will wear out extremely fast in a month or so…?
I used to have the Megan's on my car and remember them being extremely tight but was able to fit it. I think you'll be ok, it's definitely better one way than the other but I don't think it'll be detrimental.
Hey Alex! It's still sort of in the prototyping phase I think - I've been working with them on developing it. Shoot Just Engineering a message or email and they'll have all the details :)
For spherical bearings and heim joints - boots trap in water and destroy the joint, bearing, and cup faster. Having boots on them is bad. But you're right, this allows dust and dirt in, which does wear out the joint faster than a traditional ball joint/tie rod end. It's a give and take with the performance gains. If it's a greasable joint however - boots are great. The grease keeps the water away and the boot keeps dirt out.
Pretty rad car. Keep it up
Thanks! That's the plan! :)
Greatly explained and showed.
Recently subbed, slowly going thru the backlog. Out of curiosity, did you ever weight the Red Levin Beams?
My drift car, the beams red trueno coupe, weighed ~2200lbs with a stripped interior and full roll cage. With the supercharger setup it's probably around 2300lbs
@@DoctoredGarage Thank You for answering
@gafrers you're welcome!
Been silently wishing for a good adjustable ackermann knuckle for awhile, I like this kit. Will they be adding any locating dowels on the knuckles? Also I assume the knuckle is shorter than PS knuckle length? By how much? If the price point is decent I'm interested in running this on my "do everything" car.
I'll see if I can do a side by side comparison of a PS knuckle and this to see the distance difference. Tbh I'm not sure how much the locating dowels matter with a good set of bolts, but it is possible they'd add them.
@@DoctoredGarage my concern about dowels is purely anecdotal, but I have seen people shear bolts on NRCA's without dowels. Even if shear isn't a concern, I'd be curious about shifting of alignment under heavy grip loads (sticky tire grip driving).
I like this kit either way and it looks like the best option for a do-all frontend setup.
Woah I've never seen that before! I've only seen stuff like that happen when the wrong bolts are used or if they weren't torqued down all the way. NRCAs have a little different forces put on the bolts too. Hmm.
Justin from Just Engineering is a mechanical engineer, I was talking to him just the other day about some of the stress testing they do with design. They do some really through testing. I'll mention the dowels to him and your experience.
@@DoctoredGarage again, purely anecdotal. Entirely possible they had some low grade hardware store bolts in there. Just something I always had in the back of my head as a concern. Look forward to seeing more about this setup!
Did you have to cut the strut towers for this updated top hat design Vs the last version.
Yeah you still need a place for the strut dampening adjuster to come through at. I'm not sure how much cutting it will take comparatively yet though, I haven't tried installing yet.
@@DoctoredGarage thank you! Looking forward to install video again. I’m considering it for my S14.
How do you get the gear out enough to get the the slide hammer in there?
Just push it in. It'll go
How much angle did you gain? Can you have the car on wheels with full lock?
Once I get the front brakes and wheel bearings done I'll check. But from what I could tell, the limiting factor for angle will be wheel/tire to frame rail. I need to see how far I can extend the control arms and still keep good camber.
So for tension rods I bought some megan brand cheaper ones cause I can’t afford better brands, and was wondering if I set it up and down instead of how you say horizontally, does it make a huge WEAR difference? I noticed the bolt and heim joint they provide is too large/wide to install horizontal because the bolt hits the tension rod bracket.
I was thinking to get a different bolt with a low rounded end for better clearance, but that still would leave the nut end hitting being the bolt ends revolve around the heim joint.
Not sure if this is okay or it will wear out extremely fast in a month or so…?
Great video though, very explanatory I appreciate it thanks!👏👍
I used to have the Megan's on my car and remember them being extremely tight but was able to fit it. I think you'll be ok, it's definitely better one way than the other but I don't think it'll be detrimental.
Glad it was helpful!
How do you purchase this kit? I don't see it on their website....
Hey Alex! It's still sort of in the prototyping phase I think - I've been working with them on developing it. Shoot Just Engineering a message or email and they'll have all the details :)
usually never see good proctective boot to bearings. preffy fast eat bad when see sand/dirt etc. dierod end worst.
For spherical bearings and heim joints - boots trap in water and destroy the joint, bearing, and cup faster. Having boots on them is bad. But you're right, this allows dust and dirt in, which does wear out the joint faster than a traditional ball joint/tie rod end. It's a give and take with the performance gains.
If it's a greasable joint however - boots are great. The grease keeps the water away and the boot keeps dirt out.