I'm trying to work out how to put an amp into an electric car. I don't want to use any power from the car to drive the amp or the sub as it will effect the range of the car plus electric cars can be temperamental when you start pulling extra current from somewhere. Therefore I want to keep the original head unit and just use it as a music source. So the amp and sub will run from a separate lithium battery I will recharge when I recharge the car. My idea is to get a line output from the original head unit using PAC LP7-4 L.O.C. PRO Series 4-Channel Line Output Converter with Remote Turn On. That will just pick up from the speaker output from the original head unit then go to the amp and sub. Because the head unit is using the 12 volt battery in the car and my line output converter together with the amp will use a seperate lithuim battery do you foresee any problems such as noise or feedback? I beleive this setup will become more common as EVs replace ICE cars. The vehicle is a Mitsubishi I-MiEV. Your advice would be appreciated.
lol, first paragraphs bro! 1) Most current electric cars have a 12 volt system, you have to use that. 2) Adding any batteries is a serious no no, you have no idea what the charging systems are doing. 3) Add what you want but on the 12 volt system.
15 amp fuse, class d, 4 Channel? 12 gauge power leads will be more than enough conductor. at full blast you probably only drawing 7 amps so even 14 gauge ofc would be plenty
Hard to call a discontinued item "on lock". There are likely better options for overall price vs wattage, in a car. An amp like this JVC is an ideal option for those of us looking for an amp on a bike but without the ability to upgrade stators (80's Hondas, for example)
If you don't have the other three channels loaded down with non inductive dummy load resistors while doing a power test, this test is absolutely useless, ofc it will do more with only a single channel loaded. You can't expect an accurate measurement of output power if you aren't taxing the power supply. Thumbs down, do things right or not at all. Also, the way you see ringing on the peaks of those sinewaves shows an unstable amplifier, the fact only one channel is loaded and it is doing that makes me think it would be incredibly unstable when you would start pushing it in a proper test, either the ringing is from you not knowing what you're doing, or the design is flawed.
You can get a Taramp's 800x4 for about $80 to $110 with way more power.
Seems expensive for this particular amp doesn’t it?
Yea for the price it doesn't have enough watts to run front and back speakers.
I'm trying to work out how to put an amp into an electric car. I don't want to use any power from the car to drive the amp or the sub as it will effect the range of the car plus electric cars can be temperamental when you start pulling extra current from somewhere. Therefore I want to keep the original head unit and just use it as a music source. So the amp and sub will run from a separate lithium battery I will recharge when I recharge the car. My idea is to get a line output from the original head unit using PAC LP7-4 L.O.C. PRO Series 4-Channel Line Output Converter with Remote Turn On. That will just pick up from the speaker output from the original head unit then go to the amp and sub. Because the head unit is using the 12 volt battery in the car and my line output converter together with the amp will use a seperate lithuim battery do you foresee any problems such as noise or feedback? I beleive this setup will become more common as EVs replace ICE cars. The vehicle is a Mitsubishi I-MiEV. Your advice would be appreciated.
lol, first paragraphs bro!
1) Most current electric cars have a 12 volt system, you have to use that.
2) Adding any batteries is a serious no no, you have no idea what the charging systems are doing.
3) Add what you want but on the 12 volt system.
Would you know what's the wires for bridging as I can't find it anywhere
Looks like a Kenwood amp
It is a Kenwood amp because JVC owns them.
15 amp fuse, class d, 4 Channel? 12 gauge power leads will be more than enough conductor. at full blast you probably only drawing 7 amps so even 14 gauge ofc would be plenty
JVC is late in the game, Alpine got this segment on lock with the ktp445 and even better, the kicker key with a built in DSP
The Kicker Key amps would be even better if the EQ could be user adjustable
Hard to call a discontinued item "on lock". There are likely better options for overall price vs wattage, in a car. An amp like this JVC is an ideal option for those of us looking for an amp on a bike but without the ability to upgrade stators (80's Hondas, for example)
What amp do I need to run 2 10” subs w/ 500 watt rms and 800 watt peak. They’re both dual 2 ohms
You need one that will do 1000 watts rms at 1 ohm
Very useless test. Who buys a 4 channel amp and only loads on channel?!
If you don't have the other three channels loaded down with non inductive dummy load resistors while doing a power test, this test is absolutely useless, ofc it will do more with only a single channel loaded. You can't expect an accurate measurement of output power if you aren't taxing the power supply. Thumbs down, do things right or not at all. Also, the way you see ringing on the peaks of those sinewaves shows an unstable amplifier, the fact only one channel is loaded and it is doing that makes me think it would be incredibly unstable when you would start pushing it in a proper test, either the ringing is from you not knowing what you're doing, or the design is flawed.