This is an great video, thanks for explaining this so simply. Basically, the first window he caulked up already had the film attached, so he shows how the caulking can be done, and second window is there to demonstrate how the film should be applied and air bubbles removed. This is a lot easier than I would have expected.
I thought that was the case - but had to come to the comments for clarity. Which means the video isn't much good because they didn't make that at all clear.
The way you placed the caulking around the perimeter of the glass prior to attaching the film only makes the glass safe not secure. The caulk goes on after the application of the film so that it will lock the film in properly. The weakest points are around the edges. Or did I miss that part? Idea, make an updated video.
What product would you utilize on wood framed doors where it seems to me that the painted surface is the weak point in the attachment. Specifically, a 36 inch residential door.
Can you not remove the beading, remove glass from the window. Apply the film right to the edges and reinstall? So the beading sits over and holds the film securely?
safety can be applied on the interior and exterior of glazing so long as you use an exterior weatherable version for exterior. Interior application is the basic/ preferred for any application. We add exterior for extra security against forced entry
that is correct. we do have an exterior weatherable safety film that is installed on the exterior (surface 1) for extra protection when coupled with an interior applied safety film on surface 2
The video shows caulking first, then film application. Shouldn’t that be the other way around? Film first, then caulk? That’s what us users want to know.
Hello. I live in a rural area which is growing. I don't think we have much crime, but then my mind tells me if there is crime, it may be less cookie cutter and therefore more dangerous - particularly if we are home during an attempted robbery (or other motive). In any event, I can't figure out the value to spend additional $$$ or effort for attachment. If I lived in DT Seattle or Chicago, absolutely I would attach the film to my door. Further, I'd have either AP25 glass on the outside of the door and/or a metal security door. Also, in the video, you guys (and others) reference attaching the film to aluminum/metal framing. I have a fiberglass door with large glass panel. I notice it even has some existing sealant around the glass. Is it worth the effort to add more sealant in an effort to attach to the fiberglass door- and really I think it would end up attaching to narrow wood trim moreover the fiberglass. Thanks in advance.
Security attachments from what some film companies say is for bomb blast. In a rural setting you can use less messy ways such as Pentagon or bond cap systems. You can also not use an attachment on the fames as it still will delay entry. In a rural home setting I have used clear silicone on the edges and this has even helped in smashing, maybe not from blasts but how many breaking use bombs? You may not even need an attachment on glass, your just trying to delay the entry since most businesses and homes have alarms. Being a retired police Captain, I advise if you have an alarm, make it audible, 99% of the time it will scare them off.
The 3M ultra security films have a patented multi layer construction that makes them harder to tear, so we believe they perform better for forced entry
@@NationalGlazingSolTV thanks for much for the reply. When trimming back the existing seal. Is there a preference to the side to trim ( inner side facing the glass) or ( outer side against the frame)
One criticism, which I'm sure will seem petty but I think it's important: Don't chew gum while making a presentation. It can be distracting not to mention making it a bit more difficult to be understood.
1.) Jarret Fink: '' Why would you put down the caulking before you install the film?'' Your reply: ''You would not install the caulking before the film.'' Me: !! ?? ''You installed the caulking before the film, but you tell Jarret you would 'not' install the caulking before the film? 2.) Seneca: ''The video shows caulking first, then film application. Shouldn’t that be the other way around? Film first, then caulk? '' Your reply: ''....silence, no reply,....'' 3.) Bizango99: ''This wasn't clear to me. Install film first THEN do the caulking thing right? Your reply: ''That is correct.'' Me: Thanks for your time guys but your demonstration is so confusing and then you continue confusing everyone more with the way you answer questions. 4.) Amar Singh: ''Can you not remove the beading, remove glass from the window. Apply the film right to the edges and reinstall? So the beading sits over and holds the film securely?'' Your reply: ''Yes but it will still not anchor the film in the frame and will dislodge when stressed.'' 5.) Me: ''But, surely it is possible to anchor the film to the frame inside the beading? That is, remove the beading, secure the film to the window (with soapy water), then secure the film edges all along the inside of the window frame with the caulking. When the caulking is dry put the beading back on. (a) Surely that is possible to do? And (b) it would indeed anchor the frame?
it is best if you can film edge to edge of glass and then anchor to the frame. when you say "beading" I am assuming you are talking about the gasket that seals the glass to the frame? If so then this is not a means to anchor the film and glass to the frame. You would still need to apply structural or mechanical attachment to achieve sufficient performance for forced entry, storm or bomb blast mitigation
@@NationalGlazingSolTV Hi James & Scott, thanks very much for your prompt reply. No the beading isn't the rubbery gasket, it's a one inch wide removable strip of hard plastic, placed in front of the gasket all around the inner frame. (Or the outer the frame, - not wise.) It's inside the beading I hope (there's enough room) to place the bonding silicone/caulking. Cheers from Ireland. :- ) www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/lead-knives/how-to-remove-upvc-window-beading-with-a-lead-knife
This is an great video, thanks for explaining this so simply. Basically, the first window he caulked up already had the film attached, so he shows how the caulking can be done, and second window is there to demonstrate how the film should be applied and air bubbles removed. This is a lot easier than I would have expected.
I thought that was the case - but had to come to the comments for clarity. Which means the video isn't much good because they didn't make that at all clear.
The way you placed the caulking around the perimeter of the glass prior to attaching the film only makes the glass safe not secure. The caulk goes on after the application of the film so that it will lock the film in properly. The weakest points are around the edges. Or did I miss that part? Idea, make an updated video.
Gotta get the pay scale correct as well because it takes a lot of work & experience as well as expertise to get it done right !
What product would you utilize on wood framed doors where it seems to me that the painted surface is the weak point in the attachment. Specifically, a 36 inch residential door.
Can you not remove the beading, remove glass from the window. Apply the film right to the edges and reinstall? So the beading sits over and holds the film securely?
yes but it will still not anchor the film in the frame and will dislodge when stressed.
Can this treatment/process be done in a 25-storey glass curtain wall building or only in lower buildings?
Silly questions, but this wasn't clear to me. #1 Safety film goes on inside of glass right? #2 Install film first THEN do the caulking thing right?
safety can be applied on the interior and exterior of glazing so long as you use an exterior weatherable version for exterior. Interior application is the basic/ preferred for any application. We add exterior for extra security against forced entry
that is correct. we do have an exterior weatherable safety film that is installed on the exterior (surface 1) for extra protection when coupled with an interior applied safety film on surface 2
The video shows caulking first, then film application. Shouldn’t that be the other way around? Film first, then caulk? That’s what us users want to know.
How many inches do u cut the trowel? How much u cut of the tip of the trowel ?
how long do you wait after installing the film before you caulk?
3M recommends two weeks. You should give the film a few days minimum to dry.
How much a square foot for each application ?
Hello. I live in a rural area which is growing. I don't think we have much crime, but then my mind tells me if there is crime, it may be less cookie cutter and therefore more dangerous - particularly if we are home during an attempted robbery (or other motive). In any event, I can't figure out the value to spend additional $$$ or effort for attachment. If I lived in DT Seattle or Chicago, absolutely I would attach the film to my door. Further, I'd have either AP25 glass on the outside of the door and/or a metal security door. Also, in the video, you guys (and others) reference attaching the film to aluminum/metal framing. I have a fiberglass door with large glass panel. I notice it even has some existing sealant around the glass. Is it worth the effort to add more sealant in an effort to attach to the fiberglass door- and really I think it would end up attaching to narrow wood trim moreover the fiberglass. Thanks in advance.
Security attachments from what some film companies say is for bomb blast. In a rural setting you can use less messy ways such as Pentagon or bond cap systems. You can also not use an attachment on the fames as it still will delay entry. In a rural home setting I have used clear silicone on the edges and this has even helped in smashing, maybe not from blasts but how many breaking use bombs? You may not even need an attachment on glass, your just trying to delay the entry since most businesses and homes have alarms. Being a retired police Captain, I advise if you have an alarm, make it audible, 99% of the time it will scare them off.
How long do you allow the caulking to cure before peeling the tape? Also I notice you said you scored the tape?
typically its a good idea to wait 24 hours but a skilled tech can remove tape later that same day as the caulk skins within hours
One more question, do you have a video on how to cut your film once you've measured it?
we do not as of yet but will be posting more videos soon
we do not but we will be adding more instruction videos this year
Do you have any installers for residential customers in Idaho?
Please email us directly so we can arrange a local installer info -at-filmsandgraphics-dot-com
Why would you put down the caulking before you install the film?
you would not install the caulking before the film.
Where can I get that corner piece of glass used in video?
we had that made at a glass shop
Ok. Thanks
Are your films good to use on residential windows too?
yes they can be used in residential applications
how does this compare with what 3M product series can offer?
The 3M ultra security films have a patented multi layer construction that makes them harder to tear, so we believe they perform better for forced entry
Does the window seals need to be removed for caulking
no, we recommend you trim back the gaskets and caulk over whats left
@@NationalGlazingSolTV thanks for much for the reply. When trimming back the existing seal. Is there a preference to the side to trim ( inner side facing the glass) or ( outer side against the frame)
@@onehundreddegrees5239 you would want to run your olfa knife handle parallel along the frame with blade on the glass so as to trim off the excess
Can the wet glaze system be done on wood frame?
What's with the blow up doll poster ?
that's actually a back drop for a retail trade show.. basically a mannequin
Lol
where can I get that shovel?
44tools.com/thors-hammer/
One criticism, which I'm sure will seem petty but I think it's important: Don't chew gum while making a presentation. It can be distracting not to mention making it a bit more difficult to be understood.
1.) Jarret Fink: '' Why would you put down the caulking before you install the film?'' Your reply: ''You would not install the caulking before the film.''
Me: !! ?? ''You installed the caulking before the film, but you tell Jarret you would 'not' install the caulking before the film?
2.) Seneca: ''The video shows caulking first, then film application. Shouldn’t that be the other way around? Film first, then caulk? ''
Your reply: ''....silence, no reply,....''
3.) Bizango99: ''This wasn't clear to me. Install film first THEN do the caulking thing right?
Your reply: ''That is correct.''
Me: Thanks for your time guys but your demonstration is so confusing and then you continue confusing everyone more with the way you answer questions.
4.) Amar Singh: ''Can you not remove the beading, remove glass from the window. Apply the film right to the edges and reinstall? So the beading sits over and holds the film securely?''
Your reply: ''Yes but it will still not anchor the film in the frame and will dislodge when stressed.''
5.) Me: ''But, surely it is possible to anchor the film to the frame inside the beading? That is, remove the beading, secure the film to the window (with soapy water), then secure the film edges all along the inside of the window frame with the caulking. When the caulking is dry put the beading back on. (a) Surely that is possible to do? And (b) it would indeed anchor the frame?
it is best if you can film edge to edge of glass and then anchor to the frame. when you say "beading" I am assuming you are talking about the gasket that seals the glass to the frame? If so then this is not a means to anchor the film and glass to the frame. You would still need to apply structural or mechanical attachment to achieve sufficient performance for forced entry, storm or bomb blast mitigation
@@NationalGlazingSolTV Hi James & Scott, thanks very much for your prompt reply. No the beading isn't the rubbery gasket, it's a one inch wide removable strip of hard plastic, placed in front of the gasket all around the inner frame. (Or the outer the frame, - not wise.) It's inside the beading I hope (there's enough room) to place the bonding silicone/caulking. Cheers from Ireland. :- ) www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/lead-knives/how-to-remove-upvc-window-beading-with-a-lead-knife
@@MissHappyKate I would recommend removing the beading and replacing it with the structural adhesive.