Just to maybe help someone out, I found it quite easy to remove and install the two lines from above with a 18 mm crowfoot with a 4" extension and racket. I removed the air cleaner box for access. In the future and I sure hope that doesn't happen, I would connect the rack shaft to coupler right after placing the rack in position (before installing the mounting bolts and lines) as it is difficult to get back on. I would think about just removing the dust cover completely as it is so rigid and in the way.
Thank you for posting! Was very helpful for replacing the rack on my 2010 Impala. Another thing I found to look out for - I went to replace the low pressure return line/cooler for the power steering while I was in there and found my passenger side motor mount had also failed. It allows the AC compressor to lower down and rub/crush the line. Once that is replaced and proper clearance is restored, that low pressure line is easier to get to. (And this will prevent damage to the new one as well!)
You mentioned connecting the rack and pinion to the steering column the hardest part of the job. I agree completely. I have spent hours trying but still have not made any progress. I am wondering if the rack and pinion shaft is a little too big but that doesn't seem like they would do that. I think I will try to squash the dust cover then inspect the coupler then straighten and lower it with the subframe lowered. If that fails, removing the dust cover is a last option. My coupler goes down about 1/2" but then stops. Of course, I have tried aligning it. Your response with any suggestions is appreciated.
@@737mechanic That sounds like a solution. Thank you very much. I know the rack and pinion needs to be aligned too so this may cause some problems but it may be the solution. Did you have to loosen the mounting bolts also?
Did you get your 16 3/4" after installing the tie rod end? I turned my tie rod ends back in and then my measurement was a little off at the frame to rotor. I am thinking about buying a 2 X 4 X12 to align the back and front tires. I'm going to do what you mentioned about driving and if good I will go with it.
at 17:11, you could've also pushed the passengers side bushing out of the way along the front sway bar. then the front sway bar would be low enough to run the bolt out.
Such an excellent video. Thank you very much for filming all that. I was wondering if leaving the rack unbolted and getting the steering knuckle back in would have made it easier? Ive never done one so I dont know. Any who, I subscribed now and would love to see more videos. I just finished up a HP and LP steering line and Pump on my GF's 2007 Lucerne. :)
Good job. I got to do the same job on my own car to save me money. I'm kind of nervous because I never lower down the subframe before. Is it possible to reach those 2 bolts to the rack with a regular wrench
@@antwanthompson1869 Took about 1hr and 45min but I have all the necessary tools to get it done. At the end of the video I showed everything I used. Make sure you have everything before you start.
Wish mine was this easy, I have been fighting the return line to the rack for a whole day. If those things aren't lined up perfectly they won't go. Any tips for that?
Couldn't get it to line up so I cut the line and then used some hose clamps and a power steering return rubber hose/hydraulic hose to connect and it worked. Had to zip tie the hose so it wouldn't touch the catalytic converter
Thanks for the video! How is the rack and pinion from Amazon doing? After doing some research on remanufactured rack and pinions and new ones, I think I will go with a new one from China on Amazon. The one you choose from Amazon seems fine. I think I will remove the sway bar plus try and get it out without lowering the subframe. Do you work for American Airlines?
@@737mechanic Thanks for replying. I believe you have helped me to decide on this one from Amazon. I am retired from American Airlines as a Mechanic. This may be a challenging job. At least there is no skydrol for fluid.
@@737mechanic The last 6 years where at D Con (Line Maintenance) at CLT. I really enjoyed that type of work. The first 24 years where doing Sheet Medal work at Heavy Maintenance. I guess you are working in Dallas-Fort Worth airport. What do you do?
What tools and method did you use to get the steering coupler on , I’ve been trying to use a adjustable pry bar and only about 1/4 or half of it goes in before it bends
Use the jack under the subframe to lift slowly up and down as you guide it in with a prybar. You can also remove the 2 rack bolts and install the steering shaft first and then reinstall the rack bolts.
Why do you like the 12 volt DeWalt better than the 20 volts since most of the tools are going to more voltage? Also, I am going to make careful measurements but is there a step I need to do with the new rack and pinion assembly to make sure it is in the centered position as far as left to right for wheel alignment? Maybe I am overthinking this in advance??
Sorry, I just noticed you mentioned this at 21:50 mark on the video. So I need to turn it at the plastic area til the left and right are the same as the old one??
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Just to maybe help someone out, I found it quite easy to remove and install the two lines from above with a 18 mm crowfoot with a 4" extension and racket. I removed the air cleaner box for access. In the future and I sure hope that doesn't happen, I would connect the rack shaft to coupler right after placing the rack in position (before installing the mounting bolts and lines) as it is difficult to get back on. I would think about just removing the dust cover completely as it is so rigid and in the way.
Thank you for posting! Was very helpful for replacing the rack on my 2010 Impala. Another thing I found to look out for - I went to replace the low pressure return line/cooler for the power steering while I was in there and found my passenger side motor mount had also failed. It allows the AC compressor to lower down and rub/crush the line. Once that is replaced and proper clearance is restored, that low pressure line is easier to get to. (And this will prevent damage to the new one as well!)
Thank you. Just installed my Rack and Pinion. I couldn't have done it without this video. Perfect/100/A+
Great job man ...i got one of those jobs coming soon. Thank you for info!
You mentioned connecting the rack and pinion to the steering column the hardest part of the job. I agree completely. I have spent hours trying but still have not made any progress. I am wondering if the rack and pinion shaft is a little too big but that doesn't seem like they would do that. I think I will try to squash the dust cover then inspect the coupler then straighten and lower it with the subframe lowered. If that fails, removing the dust cover is a last option. My coupler goes down about 1/2" but then stops. Of course, I have tried aligning it. Your response with any suggestions is appreciated.
You might want to loosen the 2 mount bolts so the rack can float around a little.
@@737mechanic That sounds like a solution. Thank you very much. I know the rack and pinion needs to be aligned too so this may cause some problems but it may be the solution. Did you have to loosen the mounting bolts also?
Did you get your 16 3/4" after installing the tie rod end? I turned my tie rod ends back in and then my measurement was a little off at the frame to rotor. I am thinking about buying a 2 X 4 X12 to align the back and front tires. I'm going to do what you mentioned about driving and if good I will go with it.
at 17:11, you could've also pushed the passengers side bushing out of the way along the front sway bar. then the front sway bar would be low enough to run the bolt out.
How long did this job take from start to finish?
About 1:30.
Such an excellent video. Thank you very much for filming all that. I was wondering if leaving the rack unbolted and getting the steering knuckle back in would have made it easier? Ive never done one so I dont know. Any who, I subscribed now and would love to see more videos. I just finished up a HP and LP steering line and Pump on my GF's 2007 Lucerne. :)
Great video. Very helpful. Could you please tell me where you got the torque specs from?
Good job. I got to do the same job on my own car to save me money. I'm kind of nervous because I never lower down the subframe before. Is it possible to reach those 2 bolts to the rack with a regular wrench
Yes you should be able to get the bolts with a regular wrench.
@@737mechanic even if you don't lower the subframe?
@@antwanthompson1869 I don't think it can be done without lowering the subframe.
@@737mechanic how did this job take you all together? And I appreciate this videos
@@antwanthompson1869 Took about 1hr and 45min but I have all the necessary tools to get it done. At the end of the video I showed everything I used. Make sure you have everything before you start.
You make this look easy!
Would it be about the same on an 07 Grand Prix?
Yes, it should be similar.
I would have just taken the sway bar out the way things would have been way easier JS but great video man 😊
You can put a line on the rod bolt with a marker or whiteout and you won’t have to count it you can just line up the mark but it’s just a suggestion
Wish mine was this easy, I have been fighting the return line to the rack for a whole day. If those things aren't lined up perfectly they won't go. Any tips for that?
Just fiddle with the alignment and make sure you don't cross thread it. It will go eventually.
Any more fiddling and I'm gonna be Charlie Daniels
Couldn't get it to line up so I cut the line and then used some hose clamps and a power steering return rubber hose/hydraulic hose to connect and it worked. Had to zip tie the hose so it wouldn't touch the catalytic converter
@@justineubank6497 Thinking outside the box, perfect.
Any tips on threading the lines in I have spent incredibly too long on trying to get them back in to the new rack
Sometimes it takes a little fidgeting to get it. Don't lose patience.
Thanks for the video! How is the rack and pinion from Amazon doing? After doing some research on remanufactured rack and pinions and new ones, I think I will go with a new one from China on Amazon. The one you choose from Amazon seems fine. I think I will remove the sway bar plus try and get it out without lowering the subframe. Do you work for American Airlines?
So far it is doing great.
@@737mechanic Thanks for replying. I believe you have helped me to decide on this one from Amazon. I am retired from American Airlines as a Mechanic. This may be a challenging job. At least there is no skydrol for fluid.
@@waynehendricks8187 What station did you work at American?
@@737mechanic The last 6 years where at D Con (Line Maintenance) at CLT. I really enjoyed that type of work. The first 24 years where doing Sheet Medal work at Heavy Maintenance. I guess you are working in Dallas-Fort Worth airport. What do you do?
@@waynehendricks8187 I am an inspector now, I was a mechanic for the first 22 years.
What about replacing the rubber boot of shock absorber pls. Vlog it too
What tools and method did you use to get the steering coupler on , I’ve been trying to use a adjustable pry bar and only about 1/4 or half of it goes in before it bends
Use the jack under the subframe to lift slowly up and down as you guide it in with a prybar.
You can also remove the 2 rack bolts and install the steering shaft first and then reinstall the rack bolts.
Why do you like the 12 volt DeWalt better than the 20 volts since most of the tools are going to more voltage? Also, I am going to make careful measurements but is there a step I need to do with the new rack and pinion assembly to make sure it is in the centered position as far as left to right for wheel alignment? Maybe I am overthinking this in advance??
Sorry, I just noticed you mentioned this at 21:50 mark on the video. So I need to turn it at the plastic area til the left and right are the same as the old one??
@@waynehendricks8187 Yes make sure it is centered.
I prefer the 12v over the 20v for a couple of reasons,
1: Lighter
2: Produce the same or close to the same power 3: The batteries are cheaper.