*For one of the best filters you can get at an amazing price with free shipping click here* amzn.to/2EMytx4 - Please LIKE this video and SUBSCRIBE - Thanks for watching - UPDATE: To see a more in depth cleaning video for the condenser click here: ruclips.net/video/nsRHhU6q5RY/видео.html
This man is absolutely right about this, dryer vents in this area with fabric softener being used is the worst. I have been rinsing my unit out every year with fresh water since it was new ,16 years later still working fine. Update in 2024, my 20 Year old ac unit is still working fine using 30 days throw away filters and never had to clean the evaporator coil yet.
Oh looky there.... he's selling 50 cent filters for $3.55. Smoke and mirrors. Of course your going to see a 10° drop until that coil outside gets dry. Increasing the airflow will make the temperature higher not lower... in fact we actually slow the air down on purpose at times to help with moisture removal. Too many variables in today's higher tech systems... ie variable speed blowers etc. Rinsing off the outdoor unit is a good idea... preventing it from getting too dirty. But attempting to wash an outdoor coil can cause more damage than good. Washing that particular unit (Rheem and Ruuds) really requires washing from the inside out. Better to let a skilled tech provide service... just saying.
I agree with the filters you use. Don't know why anyone would want less airflow? Wouldn't remove humidity as well, but maybe higher tech units, like the "expert" below commented. Maybe I should PAY HIM, WHY WOULD HE WANT PEOPLE TO DIY? Not saying he's not an expert, but didn't say much helpful, except "use a professional! Duh!", totally paraphrasing.. A hater! You must be right after all, lol! No disrespect to anyone, some live to do it, very sad! Maybe he should make a channel? No time, easier to fix uneducated folks appliances, hopefully well! Be nice to have a top expert give us tips! STILL, GREAT VIDEO TO ME!
I have been in the HVACR industry for years, and I can tell you clogged up condenser coil = high discharge pressure and early death for compressor. Pleated filters are OK only if you want to change them once a week , otherwise use 30 day thow away filters. I have gone to customers houses and found these filters and restricted air flow on both coils, wonder why the air conditioning won't hold the house on a 90° day.
The design makes this AC a possible alternative to ductless DYI systems. It works great. The remote control could be more visual aid oriented like a backligh design. Is impossible to see the lcd at least for me. Easy install ruclips.net/user/postUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5Tation. Came on time . Great comfort around the house 5 🌟 again. Follow mfg instructions for care and all and this should be the only AC you need for those of is that don't live in new homes with central AC
just remember that the Ductless Mini Splits are the same as having a Window Unit or a PTAC, Hotel Unit. no good filter, disposable, not designed for a long life, does not get sized correctly and often causes biologic issues in a home. ... but you do you
You have SAVED our life; our AC was blowing warm air but now it's cold! It is a heat index of over 100 degrees today. We are getting a different filter right now, but what REALLY helped was rinsing the unit with the soapy water. We had a tree cut down right next to it and I never considered that it was blocked. Combine that with the hottest weather yet this year and we were suffering! It is blowing colder than it ever has!!! Thank you!
Make sure to rinse with plain water very thoroughly after having rinsed it with soapy water. You shouldn't use soap because it is quite sticky and if you don't rinse it all off your unit will get blocked again very quickly.
@@peter-pg5yc ~ Maybe, when the system is installed or modified, you might have them install an oversized vent cover on the intake so that you CAN use a high Merv filter while maintaining air flow CFM. The duct pipe will be the same diameter, just a much larger cover to accommodate a larger filter. For many it will suffice to clean the exterior as shown but for us handy types; I would pull the entire cover and hose wash through any "radiators" backward to push built up dried dirt and particulates out. I also have a habit of mixing lye with water and applying from a spray pump bottle. A full face shield, long rubber type gloves that come up your arms at least past the wrist, with a long sleeved "grub" shirt and long pants also of the grubby variety and you are ready. The canned sprays I have seen for cleaning cooling style radiators all seem to contain lye. As a suitable substitute one can use Easy Off oven cleaner which does the same thing as it contains lye. Lye is good for dissolving organic matter and will turn your skin to a mush should you get it on you. I love these kind of do-it-yourself tips that save you money while leaving serious repair work to trained pros.
As a former AC Tech and son of an AC Tech. I was taught to spray from the inside out. Sure it takes alittle more time but if you spray from the outside in you take the chance of packing the dirt and debris deeper inside the coil.
Great Video just Subscribed and I agree with that back flushing and also vaccum out the large debris inside and tighten all screws as can reduce noisy operation!!
@@tsmith3286 Some units have dual coils, so ideally you clean "inside out" AND "outside in". Cleaning outside in only is obviously gonna be better than nothing but doesn't clean as well if you're pushing dirt from one coil to the next and failing to fully clean/rinse one coil or the other. Removing the outside and top cover is more time consuming and a little skill, but it's the most thorough/ideal way to clean coils. If you don't have time for thorough clean, then by all means the outside-in method is better WILL still make a difference.
Thank you so much. I went outside to rinse my “unit” (AC) and noticed someone stole it. I would have never figured out my problem if it wasn’t for your video. 👍🏼
My first time cleaning the condenser, I used dish soap from the inside out. This option is much more effective. The mistake was spraying water around the entire unit accidentally wetting the electronics. I blew a capacitor. Fortunately I tested the electronics and determined it was just the capacitor. I called for repairs and they wanted $680.0 to replace a capacitor! Next day went to purchase the capacitor for $23.0 and ten minutes later the unit was working. Still clean the unit annually, but more careful with the water. That was six years ago.
You are a life saver! I tried everything that the experts had on their videos and none of them worked. I was going to buy a new ac unit and one of your tips worked! The second you finished telling the 2nd fix, I jumped out of my bed and took off the new filter and like magic, the cold air started flowing in my house!!! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I cleaned our outside coil on our AC with Dawn soap and sprayed down the coils and it made a terrific change to our AC. It is performing much better today in our 95 degree heat here in Central Florida. Thanks!
You might try cleaning the coils on the inside half of your A/C unit. When I lived in Orlando, I noted that the humidity collected in those coils, which were cold, and created an environment well suited to mold. Even if it doesn't improve performance (it will, though) you'll find that the lack of mold spores should improve your breathing. The air circulation pulls air into the return, which is where the filter is, the flows through a duct, through those cold coils (which, as you might guess, cools the air) then through more ductwork, and out of the registers, back into the living spaces. There is no filter between coil and register. (Though, in my house, I did make custom filters for the registers, in an effort to have cleaner, mold free, air) The coils are easily accessible, normally. Just remove the panel that covers the coils (should be 4 bolts, and I found that the average 4 way screwdriver worked well, just by removing the larger screwdriver tip, and using the socket in the shaft as a boltdriver) The dish soap solution from the video should suffice as a cleaning agent, you'll want to lay out some old towels to catch water, and you'll want a way to spray clean water for rinsing purposes.
@@magnificenthonky This is true The coils of the air handler should also be cleaned now and then, But doing so with anything other than recommended coil cleaner could potentially harm the coil.
@@magnificenthonky yes, try not to damage the aluminum evap coil. Sometimes its best to leave well enough alone, if a neoprene brush and water doesnt clean it up as well as you may like.
@@DigitalIP Standard dish soap won't harm the coils. It's a fairly mild soap. Now, a lye based soap; that's different. Lye is very corrosive, and would certainly eat away at the coils. I have always used a foaming coil cleaner, though. That stuff works great, and reduces the work load. Spray that in the coils, and the foam build up pushes all the nasty right out. For rinsing, I used a pump up garden sprayer with water in it.
I had a recurring problem with dirty/muddy coils from mud spatter from rain. My A/C tech told me to lay landscape fabric around the peimeter of the A/C unit base out to 12", then put 2-3 in. of gravel on top. No problems with dirty coils since!
I’ll add something to this. I also wash the condenser housing with the same wash and wax liquid that I use on the cars…help slow down that sun and rain faded paint look.
My H&A guy told me the same about the return filter. He said use the standard filter because of the airflow and change it every month if neded. It made a huge difference. Wise tip.
The last time I cleaned my AC, I finally had to remove the metal housing which was not all that hard to do. I had cleaned and cleaned and there was still a ton of caked on dust/dirt inside the external housing. Once I removed the housing, it was easy to spray all the dirt away and do a more thorough job. My opinion is - any job worth doing, is worth doing well. Try removing the housing and see what you missed.
My brother is a HVAC tech and he said once the power is off, you should remove the top grate and shoot the water from the inside OUT, as the dirt and junk is being drawn from the outside IN.. I accompanied him on a service call in Nebraska once and we flushed crap out of the coils on this suys unit for 30 minutes! Fine little seed pods from his weed patch completely blocked the airflow through the coils. What a difference it made. Luckily we were able to get to the guys house that Sunday afternoon as he was elderly and probably would have died as the temps inside his house were just over a hundred degrees. Brother only charged the landlord a $75 service call which the landlord complained about! I told him, that same service call in Virginia would have cost over $400 he finalyl shut up.
I agree with the landlord service call fees are way out of line, not only for HVAC, but plumbers, electricians, sewer line companies, etc... It's ridiculous. I'm surprised you can still get free estimates out there. I always ask if there's a service fee and if it's deductible off the hourly cost. Sometimes it is. Back in the '70s water would flood my bathroom when I took a shower. So I called a plumber. It seems that I had cocked over a very tiny drain hole in the door track. He scraped it off which took less than 2 seconds and he charged me $90 service fee. That's b*******. If I knew you could rip people off that easily I went to wasted my time going to college.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!! As a single mom, diy person, I bought the caustic cleaning solution last year and went through the headache of taking the sides off my unit. This year, no way!!! It's Dawn,water hose and no disassembly!! Bless you. 🙏
I'll be honest I was very skeptical but I hosed down my outside unit just now and my air vent temperature improved by 9 degrees! At best it's been measuring 69 all week but now it's running at 59!! It's no wonder I haven't been able to cool my house below 70 all summer, now I'm excited for a cool house.
The water evaporating off those wet coils will definitely make the unit blow cooler. Let the coils dry at least an hour before testing with the thermometer. Then you will get a true reading.
I called licensed technician, he did the same thing... Just washed coils (without soap) and charged me $200 😢 Also I replaced the thick filter, to simple, thin one. Thanks for your advice! 👍
yes he wont use soap , so he do not want sued for destroyed lawn with chemicals as seen these guys was not care at all about that much dish soap go over grass , he was using his grass as kitchen drain .
GREAT video- thanks. I GET that the fiberglass filter will improve the airflow, BUT the filtering efficiency is going to be pretty poor, as those filters only filter out massive particles. I've Had REALLY good results with a 3M 1500 , as I READ that is provides an excellent balance between filtration efficiency and airflow , AND I've found that To be true. There's very little dust In the house, AND the air circulation is really good.
If you had a noticeable drop in dust when you changed filters that is a direct result of lowered air flow . That means your unit is working harder to push air putting an unnecessary burden on your unit.
I'm returning here to say thank you very much Silver Cymbal and to give credit where credit is due. I followed your instructions and changed out that fancy air filter and replaced it with a fiberglass filter and my ac's been working great again. I actually had contacted an ac professional about replacing my ac unit; but after watching your video and changing to a fiberglass filter, my ac has been working so much better than before. You've just saved over $1,000 and thank you very much :)
I’ve Been in the business for 25+ years and this video is very good and informative for DIYers. I have shown and told people to do the same method. Please make sure electric is off and good idea to have the thermostat in the off position as well. Good job.
I am an HVAC tech, a dirty system will definitely affect not only performance but will also affect the overall efficiency of your unit. I am in complete agreement with John Parish. 1. I would not use any solvents or cleaners that could possibly damage your coil in the long run. 2. Straight water with decent water pressure is all you need. I like to spray from top down (never at an sideways angle as this tends to bend the fins) to get the initial outer crap off the coils. Then I spray straight in to force dirt through the coil in order to get it good and clean. Be sure to clean around the base plate as there are weep holes that tend to clog, These need to be clean and clear in order for dirt and debri to drain from the unit. Also spray out from under the unit to help the unit to breath properly and to properly drain. That being said, I would NOT expect that 10 degree drop in temperature you saw in the video to last. Sure the initial drop will be significant because the outside condensing unit is WET! The fact that it is wet is going to temporarily supercool the coil and naturally drop the temperature of the air crossing the coil which in turn will help to lower the temperature of the refrigerant , which in turn will give you cooler air supply. As the unit dries out your temp will rise again. I am not saying it does not help, and you should always keep your system clean. Just do not go in expecting miracles to happen. Generally speaking, if your system is not cooling properly it is USUALLY one of two things, low refrigerant or lack of airflow (DIRTY FILTER being the most common ) a dirty condensing unit can become less efficient but is usually the lesser problem. FILTER< FILTER< FILTER!!!!!! Change it regularly and don't use something that overly restricts air flow. Keep in mind that systems do fail and if you are low on refrigerant, you have a leak somewhere, it doesn't evaporate into thin air. Time to call in a qualified tech. If your system has ice buildup on the lineset/unit it's either low on freon a clogged filter or clogged coil (indoor or out) Hope this helps! peace. ( by the way your can purchase misting systems that attach to your outdoor unit that constantly mists the coil ) That will definitely help to maintain that temp drop you saw in the video. Good luck and stay cool!!!!!!!!
The filter tip will increase air flow for a while but this will also let in more dust that will clog up your indoor coil. May take a year but once the indoor coil gets good and clogged this will decrease air flow to the point where the Freon lines will freeze up. Best to use a filter that will catch most dust particles and pet dander before it gets to the coil. Also, a better filter for people that have allergies. Keep them changed regularly and there should not be a reduction in air flow. I also work for a HVAC mechanical contractor so I'm not just speaking from my experience although before I knew about this I have needed to have my indoor coil cleaned several times because of the fiberglass filters. Your other tips were great and spot on. Thanks for the video!
I agree with Roy. He didn't mention that cleaning the indoor coil will cost between 1-4hrs labor depending how bad coil is. It might need to be removed for cleaning. stick with good pleated filters and change regularly
Nope, I have never seen a plugged coil that had a fiberglass filter used. Pleated bow once they get dirty and allow unfiltered air right on into the coli.
@@kenthomas4668 then you are not in HVAC industry. Fiberglass filters allow over 90% of dust to pass through them. never seen a system that used a fiberglass filter that was clean or did not have a coil that was not plugged.
Good info. I also might point out that living in New England I put dryer sheets in my screwed in electrical area of my condenser after shutting the power off. Keeps the rodents out that tend to eat the wires and fried my machine one year when I of course neglected to do this.
Thank you!! Finally someone understands that you need to get thinner filters and change them out more often!!! Don't get those fancy thick ones!! As a HVAC Technician it bothers me so much when customers get the thick ones because they don't want to change them out as often. Then they complain 3 months down the line the coil is frozen or the house isn't cooling as fast as they want!!!
That’s all fine and dandy short term, but what about long-term? What about the smaller particles that buildup on blower wheels and around blower motor causing overheating and causing extra strain?
@@GuargianGamer filters are not perfect. They delay the problem of eventually having to have your equipment cleaned. But if you value performance and filter ability the thinner filters are better over the life of the system.
I have been watching your channel for a few years now and have learned something from EVERY video you post! This channel is literally on the Mount Rushmore of DIY channels!
On really hot days I take a hose and set it to a mist spray on outside unit. Water is more effective at displacing heat. Just with water misting I've seen my vent temps drop at least 15 degrees. Misting a bit of water is a lot cheaper than longer run times at high voltage and current draw to get your house to thermostat settings.
Wes M. Hope you don’t have minerals in your water, because doing that will leave mineral deposits on your condenser over time and ruin your efficiency.
What great tips! Thanks! I've rinsed it before but I've never used soap. I will be doing that soon. The owner who built the house used a seriously undersized condenser and so it has been very difficult to keep the house cool. I have a infrared probe that I can test with so I will do so :-) thank you so much.
We put medium grade filters in our HVAC and put the high MERV 13 filters (20x20") on a simple box fan. Super cheap, fast and easy. And relieves the stress put on the main HVAC system. The air is much cleaner overall and we don't have to change the HVAC filters nearly as much.
There us an architect who has a channel about avoiding mold. She helps people remediate their houses, and she recommends that type of air purifier over the expensive ones. Good call!
I'm so glad I accidentally found your site. I heard different ideas about new and old filters. When I got an AC service I asked the business owner if new filter is appropriate for the old unit I have. He said new ones are better. It's probably better for him. Your video shows that's not the case. I've never had any problems with the older cheaper filters so I'm going back to them. Thank you.
thanku so much, im disabled an my ac is not cooling on one of the hottest days,...........im going to see if i can try these tips before calling a service, they are very exspensive.....again ty so much
I enjoyed your video as I love the DYI dimension of RUclips. As a chemist I can tell you the following to improve your method: 1. Dilute the soap at least 50:1. The dilution used here isn’t necessary, wastes money, and isn’t great for environment. 2. A more effective way to apply the soap to the vent is to use a high quality household spray bottle. This video uses way more than needed to clean effectively., again wasting soap and abusing the environment. 3. To ensure that you won’t damage the AC unit when rinsing, simply set your nozzle to a gentle spray similar to what you might use to water delicate flowers. Trust me. I worked with soaps and surfactants for over 40 years and am happy to share my knowledge. Keep up the good work.
What about using a foaming cleaner, like the one from Dawn, or the "Scrubbing Bubbles" bathroom cleaner? Spray it on, and when it turns to liquid, rinse it off.
no dillution of household chemicals generally needed, and he did overly dillute that weak chemical anyhow. we have to consider the pollen as well as lint and bugs that have clogged the coil bed. the more foam to push out debris the better, not simply a matter of a light wash. and the degreaser is a must.
If you want to use the higher merv filters, consider having another return line and filter register installed to compensate for the resistance to the system
Awesome and effective tips for DYI. I just realized, I have not checked my heat pump for over a year. It's on my Saturday to do list. Also, this will help in Winter time as well. Same heat pump, different direction heat is being pumped from. Thank you.
I've been using a light application of dish detergent and then immediately rinsing the outdoor fins for 15 years and everything still looks practically like new. I also clean all the debris out of the bottom of the unit (power off first, of course!) and then spray water from the inside out through the fins. After that, I dry and wax the outside of the unit. Every tech who has come for the yearly inspection of the system is impressed that our outside unit looks practically new, after all the years of use.
Only thing I would add is on that Ruud/Rheem/weather king you have to take the door off to expose the rest of the coil, and it will be the dirtiest part of that unit. Your spot on with your tips.
I just discovered your channel in every tips he was like it’s going to be very helpful I’m excited to try them tomorrow is going to be the first day and I’m going to the air-conditioning outside unit and I’m going to find out because we just replaced our filters but I’m gonna see if we can replace them for the next six months with the ones that you’re talking about thank you so much
If you have a 90+ efficient furnace, there is a secondary heat exchanger which is a lot like the ac coil and easy to clog so it is important to use better than a fiberglass filter(in my opinion). I also think that the safest cleaner to use is Dow bathroom scrubbing bubbles. It is cheap at Sam's.
That's why for those furnaces it's better to use the 4 in filters. They trap more dirt due to the greater surface area, but still allow more air flow because of how thick they are.
@@JH-mt3pp 4 in filters are great. I prefer them. But some applications and HVAC set ups don't work with 4 in filters. 1 in filters are perfectly fine to use, especially the cheaper ones. They reduce statics and still protect the system from dirty air. Just have to remember to replace them once a month. Which isn't hard. It takes maybe 5 or 10 min to pull it out and pop another one in.
@@AJ-ox8xy Yes, I can see where 4 inch would not always work. I just had a new furnace installed. My old one was 24 years old. It gave me trouble twice last winter so bye-bye.
Great tips my man but if I may offer a suggestion you should be washing the coils from the inside out. The air pulls dirt and pollen in from the outside so you need to backwash from the other direction. If you don't wash it we'll enough, you could actually be packing more dirt deeper into the coil and some a/c systems have really thick coils or even 2 coils sandwiched together.
Exactly well said. Using a garden hose like that, chances are the electrical component inside can get wet. From forced spraying into. Amature verses the professional.
I've been doing hvac for 30 plus years and if you use fiberglass filters you can expect to have your evap cleaned in a few years because they allow too much through the filter. If your system is designed right pleated filters will work the best and protect your coil.feo. have g to be cleaned in a few years.
Regarding using pleated air filters, instead of the FACTORY APPROVED RATED high air flow fiberglass fileters: After a mere 1 month of use, AIR FLOW through the blower is seriously reduced with pleated filters, causing system performance issues. NO, homeowners WILL NOT properly replace pleated air filters MONTHLY. Stick with fiberglass filters. Get system cleaned AND performance checked, annually. PERIOD.
Love, love, love 💕 the show-as-you go techniques in your videos! You do this well without excessive chitty chatter and banter and viewers learn something to boot!🤩
Silver cymbal First let me be very clear I am HVAC service tech of 24+ yrs. I’m only going to address the major areas of misinformation. First your air temperatures are everything. If the system is working correctly the supply air temp is supposed to be 18-22deg F colder than the return, with an ambient out door air temp of 85deg F. this is what the system is designed to do (unless it is a ductless split or a window unit neither of which you have). The difference between your supply air and return air temps (delta T) is the quickest and easiest way to determine if the system is operating correctly. First unless the system has airflow issues a standard or non hepa pleated filter should be fine but if your evap or indoor coil is restricted (dirty) adding a pleated filter will actually cause the supply air temp to be colder resulting in a delta T that is more than 22deg F. Fiberglass filters are junk along with washable filters. A disposable “poly” filter is way better you can get them at Home Depot or Lowe’s. Second you don’t ever have to use any type of chemical cleaner (dish soap or otherwise). Just rinse off the coil with a garden hose and moderate water pressure being careful not to bend the fins. Any additional dirt that chemical cleaner will remove will not give a noticeable increase in system performance.
Brent Smith agreed also causing the dirt to stick to the condenser coil faster thus causing your coil to get dirty quicker. (And I hope his house was pretty warm that day and not the 72 it said on that crappy nest otherwise his unit isn’t even operating properly) 😂 AC tech/business owner born into the business 29years ago 👍
I agree with you completely I’m an up and rising tech. Only time I use a clear is when a coil is really dirty almost completely stoped up and I use purple power and then thoroughly rinse the coil.
@@einskickinname94 Also NEVER USE COIL CLEANER THAT CONTAINS SODIUM HYDROXIDE EVER! Check the label make sure it doesn't contain it no matter how thoroughly you rented it can never be rinsed off completely you have to neutralize it with a mild acid like vinegar I've seen more coils ruined that way. The only time you'should ever need to use a cleaner on the coil is if you got to clean up oil from a refrigerant leak and that's when you use a solution of dish detergent in a pump sprayer 1oz per gallon is more than enough (not one fifth of a bottle and then fill the rest with water). One of the greatest and one of the worst things about the internet is the availability of information and misinformation people that don't know are armed with enough information to be very dangerous especially when it comes to repairs.
Also in hvac 10+- years same boat as you joe but less years. I agree with you 100%. And nest sucks but weird tip if your customer wants one really bad make sure it has a common wire hooked up. For some reason that fixes a lot of the glitches. My company is the only one in my area that nest calls to fix the problem customers. But still hate the damn product.
I've been a journeyman electrician for 4 years. If you're looking for the A/C unit breaker at the panel, look for a 30 amp 2 pole breaker.. Usually they're not labeled. If you find two instead of one, turn both of them off. It's probably the dryer located in your Laundry Room.
Thanks for helping homeowners avoid the big cost of having to call For HVAC service. There are so many simple things you can do like you pointed out it’s all about airflow
If your room is 100° and you have 63° air coming out, then your A/C is a damn beast!!! That would be about a 30° delta-T between the return and supply. The standard is 18° in most cases.
Timothy Vance &. Delta T can vary between 16 and 26 degrees, depending on how humid the air is entering the evaporator coil. The higher the humidity, the less capacity there is left to remove sensible heat. Most units will only do 80% of their capacity if the load is all sensible. They assume at least an 80% sensible heat ratio.
I laughed when I went out to a service call for a house on contract and the home inspector said the delta T was only 13 and it should be 18. It's an r-22 ac with a piston, superheat was within the charge range.
Good tips. I like videos like this, because they give people like me the courage to do certain maintenance ourselves. Though, I would not use a fiberglass filter.
If you took the vent temp reading right after spraying the unit, the reading won’t be 100% accurate because the condensers job is to dissipate heat...everything has been cooled down from all the water. Wait till it dries then take the indoor temp.
He mostly showed the temp coming out and not what is going in. You should shoot for a 20F difference. If you have much more than that, then you probably have another issue in the system. The lower the number isn't always better.
Air flow is very important when I comes to the unit! I agree but you should not use dish soap on the unit because it can damage the coil especially on newer units it’s almost impossible to remove all the soap and what gets left behind can calcify and lead to leaks in the unit. You should use a light duty degreaser like purple power (that’s what I use) or just about every box store sells a cleaner to use. I am a tech and use to use the expensive cleaners and I’ve used many different ones and I ended up using purple power one day a few years back and now it’s all I use. And you should disconnect power to the indoor and out door units power is still being sent from the indoor to the outdoor unit. But the best advice I can give is to set up a service schedule with a company you trust. Let them come out twice a year and we clean the indoor and out door units. Plus we do a full system check and we can find and take care of little problems that become worse like a capacitor that’s weak and can lead to a fan motor going bad a $20 cap is better than a $200 motor that you’d have to replace. That’s just my 2 cents.
Even cleaning the condenser coil outside Half assed with the water hose will help tremendously and when you said that the service tech cleans the condenser. Very rarely. There’s a lot of people out there doing work that want call back
Much better to take the fan off the top, set it aside and wash from the inside out, thus avoiding driving dirt into the coil stack. And do not turn the unit on for 30 mins. But yes i like your video, removal of dirt is vital for the condenser coil to do its job
Somewhere in our area is a Cottenwood tree. Every Spring my Condenser gets the fins covered with the fluff. No way would I try to push it through the fins.
Yeah backflushing the coil is a good practice. I do it once per year. And stay on top of that filter change and NEVER run the system without a filter for an extended period unless you like ripping out a coils and flushing them out
Awesome video! I'm switching to fiberglass filters! And I'm going to clean my outside unit like you did. South Florida summers are brutal here and it's just around the corner.
In a residential hvac tech. Basic Pleated filters are better. Fiberglass doesn't capture enough debris. He will have to pay someone like me to clean his evap coil. Second. Plain water works.and don't spray water into the condenser ( outdoor coil) you will clog it up it needs to be from inside, were the fan motor is and spray towards the out side. That will push all the debris out of the condensing coil. But he is correct. Having a clean condensing coil will save you alot of money and life of the unit but please do it correctly or pay a qualified hvac tech.
Excellent video, I'm using a 4" filter and will be replacing it with a cheap 1". My AC has a difficult time keeping up when the temp hit 90 degrees and the reason might be the filter...
I tried this. When i started, The temp outside was 87. My thermostate was regestering 75 down stairs with the AC going. Needless to say, it was consideralbly warmer upstairs. After following the instructions in this vidio, it was 65 downstairs after two hours, and very comfortable upstairs. Now I have to figure out how not to be too cold. This works, and works well.
@@daytonsimmons1748 unfortunately, you will probably have to live with it. Cold air is heavier, so downstairs is colder. You could try closing off a vent in a more open area to reduce the cooling downstairs.
So many things wrong with this video but I do admire you for trying to help people save money. When you clean a condenser coil it's actually best depending on the coil type, whether it be in Brush coil or fin type coil, you can take off the top where your fan is and spray with a high pressure hose( not hard enough to where it will bend the fins)but hard enough to knock out the dirt from the inside out. also use coil cleaner not soap as soap tends to oxidate an oxidation is like calcium in a sense it starts to Gunk up. Acid coil cleaner should be diluted if you have a coated coil, otherwise do not leave acid wheel cleaner on a coil for more than 5 minutes and pre-rinse before applying
Good tips. 8 years in the industry - Pleated filters are a racket. Running a 14 y/o system no problems ever just by keeping it clean inside and out. Furnace too.
Thank you the one is the video is 19 years old and I hav a second smaller unit also RUUD same vintage. Still going strong with everything you see in the video. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
For the outside unit, use one of the cheap carwash foaming attachments. The cheap ones from Walmart connect to your hose and do not have high pressures.
1&2 are spot on. Better to spray from the inside (or high angle of attack as not to push the debris into the coil. Best just to keep the bushes and mulch away.
If you are returning 100 degree air and discharging 63 degree air your system is working damn good! The discharge temp will drop as the room cools. 15 to 18 degrees is the differential rule temperature.
Yooooooo mind blown and I'm a maintenance tech. We stay away from the thin fiberglass filters now I'm going to start ordering the thin fiberglass ones asap. The soap trick is a no brainer but it make since now. It acts as a external pump/filter 🤯🤯🤯. Sir you have made my service calls and ir PM's so much easier 💰💰💰⚙️⚙️
Using soap and not cleaning it completely off will just attract more dirt. That's why it's best to either just use water or use a chemical that is meant for cleaning coils. Also, spraying up into the fins helps hit the coils. You're spraying down on the fins (also squirted the soap that way) and missing a lot of the coils
Not just about attracting dirt. The soap itself leaves a residue when the water evaporates away. This residue can affect heat transfer and lower the efficiency of the unit.
Actually,,, disconnecting power. Removing the top panel to gain access to the interior of the condenser coil, and rinsing from the inside out is the proper way to clean the coil. And by cleaning the coil and restoring air flow and reducing the head pressure also normalizes and lowers the suction pressure and boiling point of the refrigerant in the evaporator coil, thus yielding a lower supply air temp. Volumetric efficiency of the compressor is affected greatly by a dirty condenser. Condenser cleaning should be done seasonally, also helps to ensure compressor longevity.
In my area, cottonwood trees will clog an AC unit outside very easily. If you're extra handy, you can remove the covers for better cleaning access. I agree with the principles of this video... I clean my outside unit with a little different style, but it's the same concept.
I had an old unit that I spray painted the top white to see if it would make a difference, because whenever I touched it, it was very very hot to the touch because it’s mostly in the sun all day. And what I found out was unbelievable, the top was so cool to the touch that I thought that would help the unit run better. Am I kidding myself or do you think it would help ??? Thanks 👍🏼
You are kidding yourself. The refrigerant is what transfers the heat from inside your home to the outdoor unit. The outdoor fan removes the heat from the refrigerant and sends the refrigerant back inside to collect more heat. Cabinet temperature means nothing.
The temperature coming out of your vents is based on a temperature split from the air in the room (return air). Showing us a lower supply temperature means nothing without a return temperature. Also the most common call I go to is a blown capacitor or clogged drain line.
Please help me bro. My ac blows cold at night and warm during the afternoon. I've had a ac guy come out and he changed the fan motor, compacitor and thermostat. The drain is clear and the pipe outside is getting cold so what else could be the problem after changing all of that and spending 500 bucks?😥
@@mikelowry7730 did the tech check the condition of the evaporator in the air handler? If so was it all nasty dirty and rusty, or maybe even iced up? You may also have a slow refrigerant leak - the tech should have attached a manifold to read high and low pressures. How hot is the air blowing off of the outside unit when it's running? If your system isn't exchanging heat it's struggling. You say the drain line is clear - is it dripping?
"If your room is 100⁰ and youre only putting out 63⁰ air its gonna take a long time..." if you got a 37⁰ diference yoj dont have any air flow in the first place
Absolutely...here’s a very easy way to do it for the layman. Take and read the temp about 2’ from your supply duct or at the 1st branch coming off your furnace. After that take your intake temp, the duct in which your air filter resides. Subtract those 2 numbers and you will have your difference. Ideal is between 15-23 degrees. This is a good simple way to tell how your hvac system is doing.
While taking the time to clean your condenser unit, you should go ahead and take the time to remove the panel screws, and panels, thus exposing the actual condenser coil fins. Soap them up, then flush from the inside out (back flush). The extra time will no doubt leave you with a much cleaner condenser coil, and need to be done less often.
I agree, ruclips.net/video/nsRHhU6q5RY/видео.html For some though the exterior is all they are comfortable with but at least now you can see it done both ways
One thing to note: the after service temperature reading might be artificially low if taken while the condenser coils are still wet from evaporative cooling.
I personally use engine degreaser from Walmart. Spray into coils, let foam sit for a couple of minutes, then rinse. Works wonders, and inexpensive product.
I noticed that none of the "experts" mentioned that your HVAC Filter does two (2) jobs -- it filters the air that comes out of the vents, of course -- but it ALSO filters the air that runs through the unit's internal coils. The Merv 4 Filters that were recommended are absolute junk -- they are more of a strainer than a filter. I'm in Phoenix, AZ -- hot as hell -- I run NORDICPURE MERV 13 Filters (Amazon.com) to keep our home dust-free, allergy-free, and comfortable year-round. The MERV 13s take out dust pollen, smoke, and odors. Those cheap ones only keep out butterflies and low-flying birds ;>) I mark down the date of the Filter change, and inspect the Filter monthly. Our neighbor has the same-size house, same HVAC unit, but he runs cheap fiberglass filters. Their entire family suffers from constant allergies and high medical bills. I can buy a year's supply of MERV 13 Filters for less than the cost of a visit to the Doctor. And remember -- ALL-WAYS wash your coils from the INside.
what was the temp of the air entering the system. The delta should be about 18-22 degree for a good working system. You didnt mention teh return air temp.
He is not a tech, and neither are you. Delta T is an old standard and is not reliable unless you have a piston style(non TXV metering) non variable or ECM blower. Subcool is the standard for most all freon checks. Although Delta T is a factual check, its not what most tech use. I'm in Fla, so you may be a little different depending on your climate or conditions and equipment.
Thank you so much!!! You are the only one who really made it clear!!! We have an older rooftop unit and it struggles! Going to do that tomorrow!!! Do you recommend a hard start kit for an older unit?
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*For one of the best filters you can get at an amazing price with free shipping click here* amzn.to/2EMytx4 - Please LIKE this video and SUBSCRIBE - Thanks for watching - UPDATE: To see a more in depth cleaning video for the condenser click here: ruclips.net/video/nsRHhU6q5RY/видео.html
This man is absolutely right about this, dryer vents in this area with fabric softener being used is the worst. I have been rinsing my unit out every year with fresh water since it was new ,16 years later still working fine. Update in 2024, my 20 Year old ac unit is still working fine using 30 days throw away filters and never had to clean the evaporator coil yet.
Oh looky there.... he's selling 50 cent filters for $3.55. Smoke and mirrors. Of course your going to see a 10° drop until that coil outside gets dry. Increasing the airflow will make the temperature higher not lower... in fact we actually slow the air down on purpose at times to help with moisture removal. Too many variables in today's higher tech systems... ie variable speed blowers etc. Rinsing off the outdoor unit is a good idea... preventing it from getting too dirty. But attempting to wash an outdoor coil can cause more damage than good. Washing that particular unit (Rheem and Ruuds) really requires washing from the inside out. Better to let a skilled tech provide service... just saying.
I agree with the filters you use. Don't know why anyone would want less airflow? Wouldn't remove humidity as well, but maybe higher tech units, like the "expert" below commented. Maybe I should PAY HIM, WHY WOULD HE WANT PEOPLE TO DIY? Not saying he's not an expert, but didn't say much helpful, except "use a professional! Duh!", totally paraphrasing.. A hater! You must be right after all, lol! No disrespect to anyone, some live to do it, very sad! Maybe he should make a channel? No time, easier to fix uneducated folks appliances, hopefully well! Be nice to have a top expert give us tips! STILL, GREAT VIDEO TO ME!
I have been in the HVACR industry for years, and I can tell you clogged up condenser coil = high discharge pressure and early death for compressor. Pleated filters are OK only if you want to change them once a week , otherwise use 30 day thow away filters. I have gone to customers houses and found these filters and restricted air flow on both coils, wonder why the air conditioning won't hold the house on a 90° day.
If your concern is airflow, why use a filter at all? fiberglass only traps 10 to 15 percent of dust
The design makes this AC a possible alternative to ductless DYI systems. It works great. The remote control could be more visual aid oriented like a backligh design. Is impossible to see the lcd at least for me. Easy install ruclips.net/user/postUgkx_hHgTlzH3uk31Fe2RVS3xEbXHGaN_z5Tation. Came on time . Great comfort around the house 5 🌟 again. Follow mfg instructions for care and all and this should be the only AC you need for those of is that don't live in new homes with central AC
just remember that the Ductless Mini Splits are the same as having a Window Unit or a PTAC, Hotel Unit. no good filter, disposable, not designed for a long life, does not get sized correctly and often causes biologic issues in a home. ... but you do you
You have SAVED our life; our AC was blowing warm air but now it's cold! It is a heat index of over 100 degrees today. We are getting a different filter right now, but what REALLY helped was rinsing the unit with the soapy water. We had a tree cut down right next to it and I never considered that it was blocked. Combine that with the hottest weather yet this year and we were suffering! It is blowing colder than it ever has!!! Thank you!
Make sure to rinse with plain water very thoroughly after having rinsed it with soapy water. You shouldn't use soap because it is quite sticky and if you don't rinse it all off your unit will get blocked again very quickly.
Don’t use that filter
@@richcolon6580 Why not? So which filter do u recommend then?🤔
dont use a filter with too high of a merv.. see sites why.. 4 is fine.. tech explains why.. restricts air flow.. and ac is all about air flow..
@@peter-pg5yc ~ Maybe, when the system is installed or modified, you might have them install an oversized vent cover on the intake so that you CAN use a high Merv filter while maintaining air flow CFM. The duct pipe will be the same diameter, just a much larger cover to accommodate a larger filter.
For many it will suffice to clean the exterior as shown but for us handy types; I would pull the entire cover and hose wash through any "radiators" backward to push built up dried dirt and particulates out. I also have a habit of mixing lye with water and applying from a spray pump bottle.
A full face shield, long rubber type gloves that come up your arms at least past the wrist, with a long sleeved "grub" shirt and long pants also of the grubby variety and you are ready. The canned sprays I have seen for cleaning cooling style radiators all seem to contain lye. As a suitable substitute one can use Easy Off oven cleaner which does the same thing as it contains lye. Lye is good for dissolving organic matter and will turn your skin to a mush should you get it on you. I love these kind of do-it-yourself tips that save you money while leaving serious repair work to trained pros.
As a former AC Tech and son of an AC Tech. I was taught to spray from the inside out. Sure it takes alittle more time but if you spray from the outside in you take the chance of packing the dirt and debris deeper inside the coil.
Thank you
This is the right way for sure
Great Video just Subscribed and I agree with that back flushing and also vaccum out the large debris inside and tighten all screws as can reduce noisy operation!!
In to out or out to in same difference. The dirt is just falling out on the other side.
@@tsmith3286 Some units have dual coils, so ideally you clean "inside out" AND "outside in". Cleaning outside in only is obviously gonna be better than nothing but doesn't clean as well if you're pushing dirt from one coil to the next and failing to fully clean/rinse one coil or the other. Removing the outside and top cover is more time consuming and a little skill, but it's the most thorough/ideal way to clean coils. If you don't have time for thorough clean, then by all means the outside-in method is better WILL still make a difference.
Thank you so much. I went outside to rinse my “unit” (AC) and noticed someone stole it. I would have never figured out my problem if it wasn’t for your video. 👍🏼
Probably for the copper.
My first time cleaning the condenser, I used dish soap from the inside out. This option is much more effective. The mistake was spraying water around the entire unit accidentally wetting the electronics. I blew a capacitor. Fortunately I tested the electronics and determined it was just the capacitor. I called for repairs and they wanted $680.0 to replace a capacitor!
Next day went to purchase the capacitor for $23.0 and ten minutes later the unit was working.
Still clean the unit annually, but more careful with the water. That was six years ago.
You are a life saver! I tried everything that the experts had on their videos and none of them worked. I was going to buy a new ac unit and one of your tips worked! The second you finished telling the 2nd fix, I jumped out of my bed and took off the new filter and like magic, the cold air started flowing in my house!!! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
I cleaned our outside coil on our AC with Dawn soap and sprayed down the coils and it made a terrific change to our AC. It is performing much better today in our 95 degree heat here in Central Florida. Thanks!
Glad it helped! Thanks for watching
You might try cleaning the coils on the inside half of your A/C unit. When I lived in Orlando, I noted that the humidity collected in those coils, which were cold, and created an environment well suited to mold. Even if it doesn't improve performance (it will, though) you'll find that the lack of mold spores should improve your breathing. The air circulation pulls air into the return, which is where the filter is, the flows through a duct, through those cold coils (which, as you might guess, cools the air) then through more ductwork, and out of the registers, back into the living spaces. There is no filter between coil and register. (Though, in my house, I did make custom filters for the registers, in an effort to have cleaner, mold free, air)
The coils are easily accessible, normally. Just remove the panel that covers the coils (should be 4 bolts, and I found that the average 4 way screwdriver worked well, just by removing the larger screwdriver tip, and using the socket in the shaft as a boltdriver)
The dish soap solution from the video should suffice as a cleaning agent, you'll want to lay out some old towels to catch water, and you'll want a way to spray clean water for rinsing purposes.
@@magnificenthonky This is true
The coils of the air handler should also be cleaned now and then, But doing so with anything other than recommended coil cleaner could potentially harm the coil.
@@magnificenthonky yes, try not to damage the aluminum evap coil. Sometimes its best to leave well enough alone, if a neoprene brush and water doesnt clean it up as well as you may like.
@@DigitalIP Standard dish soap won't harm the coils. It's a fairly mild soap. Now, a lye based soap; that's different. Lye is very corrosive, and would certainly eat away at the coils.
I have always used a foaming coil cleaner, though. That stuff works great, and reduces the work load. Spray that in the coils, and the foam build up pushes all the nasty right out. For rinsing, I used a pump up garden sprayer with water in it.
I had a recurring problem with dirty/muddy coils from mud spatter from rain. My A/C tech told me to lay landscape fabric around the peimeter of the A/C unit base out to 12", then put 2-3 in. of gravel on top. No problems with dirty coils since!
Good one
Am going to do it this morning! Thank you!🤔🤗!
I’ll add something to this. I also wash the condenser housing with the same wash and wax liquid that I use on the cars…help slow down that sun and rain faded paint look.
I did this to make it easier to mow around mine but can see that it would help on keeping coils clean .
@@damiangrouse4564 great advice. Moved to a home with one I don’t think has ever been cleaned. It’s dirty and rusty. Anyway to improve its appearance?
My H&A guy told me the same about the return filter. He said use the standard filter because of the airflow and change it every month if neded. It made a huge difference. Wise tip.
Literally did all this in like 2 hrs, worth it
The last time I cleaned my AC, I finally had to remove the metal housing which was not all that hard to do. I had cleaned and cleaned and there was still a ton of caked on dust/dirt inside the external housing. Once I removed the housing, it was easy to spray all the dirt away and do a more thorough job. My opinion is - any job worth doing, is worth doing well. Try removing the housing and see what you missed.
Thanks!
Welcome! Thank you
My brother is a HVAC tech and he said once the power is off, you should remove the top grate and shoot the water from the inside OUT, as the dirt and junk is being drawn from the outside IN.. I accompanied him on a service call in Nebraska once and we flushed crap out of the coils on this suys unit for 30 minutes! Fine little seed pods from his weed patch completely blocked the airflow through the coils. What a difference it made. Luckily we were able to get to the guys house that Sunday afternoon as he was elderly and probably would have died as the temps inside his house were just over a hundred degrees. Brother only charged the landlord a $75 service call which the landlord complained about! I told him, that same service call in Virginia would have cost over $400 he finalyl shut up.
Cleaning the coil can make a huge difference, some people never do it at all.
I agree with the landlord service call fees are way out of line, not only for HVAC, but plumbers, electricians, sewer line companies, etc... It's ridiculous. I'm surprised you can still get free estimates out there. I always ask if there's a service fee and if it's deductible off the hourly cost. Sometimes it is. Back in the '70s water would flood my bathroom when I took a shower. So I called a plumber. It seems that I had cocked over a very tiny drain hole in the door track. He scraped it off which took less than 2 seconds and he charged me $90 service fee. That's b*******. If I knew you could rip people off that easily I went to wasted my time going to college.
As a struggling senior widow help like this is just what I need & appreciate.
Thank you so much I am very glad this was helpful.
may you be ok 👌
Sir. This guy is not providing you with proper maintenance instructions. Do NOT listen to him in any way
Her name is Sheila. Where do you pull sir out of that
This guys video will make a cheap fix into a costly fix.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!
As a single mom, diy person, I bought the caustic cleaning solution last year and went through the headache of taking the sides off my unit. This year, no way!!! It's Dawn,water hose and no disassembly!! Bless you. 🙏
I'll be honest I was very skeptical but I hosed down my outside unit just now and my air vent temperature improved by 9 degrees! At best it's been measuring 69 all week but now it's running at 59!! It's no wonder I haven't been able to cool my house below 70 all summer, now I'm excited for a cool house.
That poor compressor
Fuck man enjoy your ac breaking mid day. It's not ment to run 24 7
The water evaporating off those wet coils will definitely make the unit blow cooler. Let the coils dry at least an hour before testing with the thermometer. Then you will get a true reading.
This is an excellent video. Informative, right to the point, well-spoken and no singing, jokes, etc. You made great points about what to do and why.
I called licensed technician, he did the same thing... Just washed coils (without soap) and charged me $200 😢
Also I replaced the thick filter, to simple, thin one. Thanks for your advice! 👍
yes he wont use soap , so he do not want sued for destroyed lawn with chemicals as seen these guys was not care at all about that much dish soap go over grass , he was using his grass as kitchen drain .
OMG you're the best! That's an incredible 10-degree drop by cleaning the outside AC and inside vents! I'll have to tell our readers.
GREAT video- thanks. I GET that the fiberglass filter will improve the airflow, BUT the filtering efficiency is going to be pretty poor, as those filters only filter out massive particles. I've Had REALLY good results with a 3M 1500 , as I READ that is provides an excellent balance between filtration efficiency and airflow , AND I've found that To be true. There's very little dust In the house, AND the air circulation is really good.
If you had a noticeable drop in dust when you changed filters that is a direct result of lowered air flow . That means your unit is working harder to push air putting an unnecessary burden on your unit.
@@wyldvigilante And it will increase electric consumption as well..!
@@bobboscarato1313 Yes, probably the one thing that will get peoples attention and I leave it out completely, lol. Thanks for adding that .
Good tips, went from 63 F to 54 F and saved a service call.
Glad it helped
I'm returning here to say thank you very much Silver Cymbal and to give credit where credit is due. I followed your instructions and changed out that fancy air filter and replaced it with a fiberglass filter and my ac's been working great again. I actually had contacted an ac professional about replacing my ac unit; but after watching your video and changing to a fiberglass filter, my ac has been working so much better than before. You've just saved over $1,000 and thank you very much :)
Great to hear! So glad to hear it helped and thank you for letting me know
I’ve Been in the business for 25+ years and this video is very good and informative for DIYers. I have shown and told people to do the same method. Please make sure electric is off and good idea to have the thermostat in the off position as well.
Good job.
Thank you I appreciate that a lot.
Loved your video& thank you.
But how about showing us how
too clean the inside & remove the debris such as leaves & thick dust.
GOD BLESS!
I am an HVAC tech, a dirty system will definitely affect not only performance but will also affect the overall efficiency of your unit. I am in complete agreement with John Parish. 1. I would not use any solvents or cleaners that could possibly damage your coil in the long run. 2. Straight water with decent water pressure is all you need. I like to spray from top down (never at an sideways angle as this tends to bend the fins) to get the initial outer crap off the coils. Then I spray straight in to force dirt through the coil in order to get it good and clean. Be sure to clean around the base plate as there are weep holes that tend to clog, These need to be clean and clear in order for dirt and debri to drain from the unit. Also spray out from under the unit to help the unit to breath properly and to properly drain.
That being said, I would NOT expect that 10 degree drop in temperature you saw in the video to last. Sure the initial drop will be significant because the outside condensing unit is WET! The fact that it is wet is going to temporarily supercool the coil and naturally drop the temperature of the air crossing the coil which in turn will help to lower the temperature of the refrigerant , which in turn will give you cooler air supply. As the unit dries out your temp will rise again. I am not saying it does not help, and you should always keep your system clean. Just do not go in expecting miracles to happen. Generally speaking, if your system is not cooling properly it is USUALLY one of two things, low refrigerant or lack of airflow (DIRTY FILTER being the most common ) a dirty condensing unit can become less efficient but is usually the lesser problem. FILTER< FILTER< FILTER!!!!!! Change it regularly and don't use something that overly restricts air flow.
Keep in mind that systems do fail and if you are low on refrigerant, you have a leak somewhere, it doesn't evaporate into thin air. Time to call in a qualified tech. If your system has ice buildup on the lineset/unit it's either low on freon a clogged filter or clogged coil (indoor or out)
Hope this helps! peace. ( by the way your can purchase misting systems that attach to your outdoor unit that constantly mists the coil ) That will definitely help to maintain that temp drop you saw in the video. Good luck and stay cool!!!!!!!!
This is a lot of great info and if your system is 40 years old you obviously did more than something right! Nice work.
Excellent advice
What filters are recommended than… as he is using fiberglass I’m the video ??
the best technical information that I have heard during all the years of experience in air conditioning, especially the explanatory detail
Misting systems? Are u nuts,? Ever heard of mineral deposits? Talk about a clogged coil😳 Seen it personally
The filter tip will increase air flow for a while but this will also let in more dust that will clog up your indoor coil. May take a year but once the indoor coil gets good and clogged this will decrease air flow to the point where the Freon lines will freeze up. Best to use a filter that will catch most dust particles and pet dander before it gets to the coil. Also, a better filter for people that have allergies. Keep them changed regularly and there should not be a reduction in air flow. I also work for a HVAC mechanical contractor so I'm not just speaking from my experience although before I knew about this I have needed to have my indoor coil cleaned several times because of the fiberglass filters. Your other tips were great and spot on. Thanks for the video!
I agree with Roy. He didn't mention that cleaning the indoor coil will cost between 1-4hrs labor depending how bad coil is. It might need to be removed for cleaning. stick with good pleated filters and change regularly
Nope, I have never seen a plugged coil that had a fiberglass filter used. Pleated bow once they get dirty and allow unfiltered air right on into the coli.
@@kenthomas4668 then you are not in HVAC industry. Fiberglass filters allow over 90% of dust to pass through them. never seen a system that used a fiberglass filter that was clean or did not have a coil that was not plugged.
Good info. I also might point out that living in New England I put dryer sheets in my screwed in electrical area of my condenser after shutting the power off. Keeps the rodents out that tend to eat the wires and fried my machine one year when I of course neglected to do this.
Thank you!! Finally someone understands that you need to get thinner filters and change them out more often!!! Don't get those fancy thick ones!! As a HVAC Technician it bothers me so much when customers get the thick ones because they don't want to change them out as often. Then they complain 3 months down the line the coil is frozen or the house isn't cooling as fast as they want!!!
That’s all fine and dandy short term, but what about long-term? What about the smaller particles that buildup on blower wheels and around blower motor causing overheating and causing extra strain?
@@GuargianGamer filters are not perfect. They delay the problem of eventually having to have your equipment cleaned. But if you value performance and filter ability the thinner filters are better over the life of the system.
HVAC unit makers design the required ducting and filter types,, dont they ?
@@roadking99jokerst60 yes and no. Most manufacturers don't build the filters for the units they make.
You're spreading bad info. What are your qualifications?
*Great and Easy to instal **Fastly.Cool** Low noisy*
I have been watching your channel for a few years now and have learned something from EVERY video you post! This channel is literally on the Mount Rushmore of DIY channels!
On really hot days I take a hose and set it to a mist spray on outside unit. Water is more effective at displacing heat. Just with water misting I've seen my vent temps drop at least 15 degrees. Misting a bit of water is a lot cheaper than longer run times at high voltage and current draw to get your house to thermostat settings.
Wes M. Hope you don’t have minerals in your water, because doing that will leave mineral deposits on your condenser over time and ruin your efficiency.
Not good for the coils if you do that a lot because of calcium in the water.
Don't forget water coming from your hose is probably very hard water full of minerals which will be deposited on your coil.
What great tips! Thanks! I've rinsed it before but I've never used soap. I will be doing that soon. The owner who built the house used a seriously undersized condenser and so it has been very difficult to keep the house cool. I have a infrared probe that I can test with so I will do so :-) thank you so much.
Thanks for the help, the coils were dirty. I used your soap and garden hose trick. Once I did, my system cooled. Thank you
We put medium grade filters in our HVAC and put the high MERV 13 filters (20x20") on a simple box fan. Super cheap, fast and easy. And relieves the stress put on the main HVAC system. The air is much cleaner overall and we don't have to change the HVAC filters nearly as much.
There us an architect who has a channel about avoiding mold. She helps people remediate their houses, and she recommends that type of air purifier over the expensive ones. Good call!
@@Tinyteacher1111 Thank you, we have bene quite happy with out setup. However if you don't like the sound of a box fan running you may not like it.
I'm so glad I accidentally found your site. I heard different ideas about new and old filters. When I got an AC service
I asked the business owner if new filter is appropriate for the old unit I have. He said new ones are better. It's probably
better for him. Your video shows that's not the case. I've never had any problems with the older cheaper filters so
I'm going back to them. Thank you.
thanku so much, im disabled an my ac is not cooling on one of the hottest days,...........im going to see if i can try these tips before calling a service, they are very exspensive.....again ty so much
I enjoyed your video as I love the DYI dimension of RUclips. As a chemist I can tell you the following to improve your method: 1. Dilute the soap at least 50:1. The dilution used here isn’t necessary, wastes money, and isn’t great for environment. 2. A more effective way to apply the soap to the vent is to use a high quality household spray bottle. This video uses way more than needed to clean effectively., again wasting soap and abusing the environment. 3. To ensure that you won’t damage the AC unit when rinsing, simply set your nozzle to a gentle spray similar to what you might use to water delicate flowers. Trust me. I worked with soaps and surfactants for over 40 years and am happy to share my knowledge. Keep up the good work.
What about using a foaming cleaner, like the one from Dawn, or the "Scrubbing Bubbles" bathroom cleaner? Spray it on, and when it turns to liquid, rinse it off.
no dillution of household chemicals generally needed, and he did overly dillute that weak chemical anyhow. we have to consider the pollen as well as lint and bugs that have clogged the coil bed. the more foam to push out debris the better, not simply a matter of a light wash. and the degreaser is a must.
If you want to use the higher merv filters, consider having another return line and filter register installed to compensate for the resistance to the system
Awesome and effective tips for DYI. I just realized, I have not checked my heat pump for over a year. It's on my Saturday to do list. Also, this will help in Winter time as well. Same heat pump, different direction heat is being pumped from. Thank you.
I've been using a light application of dish detergent and then immediately rinsing the outdoor fins for 15 years and everything still looks practically like new. I also clean all the debris out of the bottom of the unit (power off first, of course!) and then spray water from the inside out through the fins. After that, I dry and wax the outside of the unit. Every tech who has come for the yearly inspection of the system is impressed that our outside unit looks practically new, after all the years of use.
Great to hear. Its a big investment, well worth the time to save yourself replacing it early. Nice!
Only thing I would add is on that Ruud/Rheem/weather king you have to take the door off to expose the rest of the coil, and it will be the dirtiest part of that unit. Your spot on with your tips.
I just discovered your channel in every tips he was like it’s going to be very helpful I’m excited to try them tomorrow is going to be the first day and I’m going to the air-conditioning outside unit and I’m going to find out because we just replaced our filters but I’m gonna see if we can replace them for the next six months with the ones that you’re talking about thank you so much
If you have a 90+ efficient furnace, there is a secondary heat exchanger which is a lot like the ac coil and easy to clog so it is important to use better than a fiberglass filter(in my opinion). I also think that the safest cleaner to use is Dow bathroom scrubbing bubbles. It is cheap at Sam's.
Yeah if a cheaper pleated filter is impeading that much air flow, you may have a duct work problem. Those cheapy fiber glass filters are garbage.
That's why for those furnaces it's better to use the 4 in filters. They trap more dirt due to the greater surface area, but still allow more air flow because of how thick they are.
@@AJ-ox8xy I have a Spaceguard 4 inch filter. Any filter you can easily see through is not much of a filter.
@@JH-mt3pp 4 in filters are great. I prefer them. But some applications and HVAC set ups don't work with 4 in filters.
1 in filters are perfectly fine to use, especially the cheaper ones. They reduce statics and still protect the system from dirty air. Just have to remember to replace them once a month. Which isn't hard. It takes maybe 5 or 10 min to pull it out and pop another one in.
@@AJ-ox8xy Yes, I can see where 4 inch would not always work. I just had a new furnace installed. My old one was 24 years old. It gave me trouble twice last winter so bye-bye.
Great tips my man but if I may offer a suggestion you should be washing the coils from the inside out. The air pulls dirt and pollen in from the outside so you need to backwash from the other direction. If you don't wash it we'll enough, you could actually be packing more dirt deeper into the coil and some a/c systems have really thick coils or even 2 coils sandwiched together.
Yes very important to spray from inside out. Dirt gets sucked in from the outside so you need to push it back out the same direction it came.
Exactly well said. Using a garden hose like that, chances are the electrical component inside can get wet. From forced spraying into. Amature verses the professional.
True but I think most people are not comforting with taking off even the fan blade safety cover and so this will help a little.
True!!!!
That’s what I did to mine & huge difference! That helps prolong the unit & save on your electric ⚡️ bill
I've been doing hvac for 30 plus years and if you use fiberglass filters you can expect to have your evap cleaned in a few years because they allow too much through the filter. If your system is designed right pleated filters will work the best and protect your coil.feo. have g to be cleaned in a few years.
Regarding using pleated air filters, instead of the FACTORY APPROVED RATED high air flow fiberglass fileters: After a mere 1 month of use, AIR FLOW through the blower is seriously reduced with pleated filters, causing system performance issues. NO, homeowners WILL NOT properly replace pleated air filters MONTHLY. Stick with fiberglass filters. Get system cleaned AND performance checked, annually. PERIOD.
Fantastic video! Thank you… I live in Florida in the sweltering heat and the AC unit works double time… now I can help it a little 😎
Down here in Southern Mississippi, we live with our AC's on almost all day, every day. Thanks for the tips.
The difference in temperature readings is amazing
Love, love, love 💕 the show-as-you go techniques in your videos! You do this well without excessive chitty chatter and banter and viewers learn something to boot!🤩
This video is the best, dont do what i do, cause i have no clue what i am doing. Everything he did in this video will do more harm then good.
Awesome video when I worked maintenance I done this many times
Silver cymbal
First let me be very clear I am HVAC service tech of 24+ yrs.
I’m only going to address the major areas of misinformation.
First your air temperatures are everything. If the system is working correctly the supply air temp is supposed to be 18-22deg F colder than the return, with an ambient out door air temp of 85deg F. this is what the system is designed to do (unless it is a ductless split or a window unit neither of which you have). The difference between your supply air and return air temps (delta T) is the quickest and easiest way to determine if the system is operating correctly.
First unless the system has airflow issues a standard or non hepa pleated filter should be fine but if your evap or indoor coil is restricted (dirty) adding a pleated filter will actually cause the supply air temp to be colder resulting in a delta T that is more than 22deg F. Fiberglass filters are junk along with washable filters. A disposable “poly” filter is way better you can get them at Home Depot or Lowe’s.
Second you don’t ever have to use any type of chemical cleaner (dish soap or otherwise). Just rinse off the coil with a garden hose and moderate water pressure being careful not to bend the fins.
Any additional dirt that chemical cleaner will remove will not give a noticeable increase in system performance.
Brent Smith agreed also causing the dirt to stick to the condenser coil faster thus causing your coil to get dirty quicker. (And I hope his house was pretty warm that day and not the 72 it said on that crappy nest otherwise his unit isn’t even operating properly) 😂 AC tech/business owner born into the business 29years ago 👍
I agree with you completely I’m an up and rising tech. Only time I use a clear is when a coil is really dirty almost completely stoped up and I use purple power and then thoroughly rinse the coil.
@@einskickinname94
Also NEVER USE COIL CLEANER THAT CONTAINS SODIUM HYDROXIDE EVER!
Check the label make sure it doesn't contain it no matter how thoroughly you rented it can never be rinsed off completely you have to neutralize it with a mild acid like vinegar I've seen more coils ruined that way.
The only time you'should ever need to use a cleaner on the coil is if you got to clean up oil from a refrigerant leak and that's when you use a solution of dish detergent in a pump sprayer 1oz per gallon is more than enough (not one fifth of a bottle and then fill the rest with water).
One of the greatest and one of the worst things about the internet is the availability of information and misinformation people that don't know are armed with enough information to be very dangerous especially when it comes to repairs.
@@roofieeeo nest is a joke. Glad i'm not the only one that thinks so.
Also in hvac 10+- years same boat as you joe but less years. I agree with you 100%. And nest sucks but weird tip if your customer wants one really bad make sure it has a common wire hooked up. For some reason that fixes a lot of the glitches. My company is the only one in my area that nest calls to fix the problem customers. But still hate the damn product.
I've been a journeyman electrician for 4 years. If you're looking for the A/C unit breaker at the panel, look for a 30 amp 2 pole breaker.. Usually they're not labeled. If you find two instead of one, turn both of them off. It's probably the dryer located in your Laundry Room.
I change the filter every 3 to 4 weeks. I will do the rise with an water. Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for helping homeowners avoid the big cost of having to call For HVAC service. There are so many simple things you can do like you pointed out it’s all about airflow
😂try some of these and you'll be calling a pro before you finish
If your room is 100° and you have 63° air coming out, then your A/C is a damn beast!!! That would be about a 30° delta-T between the return and supply. The standard is 18° in most cases.
Timothy Vance &. Delta T can vary between 16 and 26 degrees, depending on how humid the air is entering the evaporator coil. The higher the humidity, the less capacity there is left to remove sensible heat. Most units will only do 80% of their capacity if the load is all sensible. They assume at least an 80% sensible heat ratio.
Timothy Vance finally some decent advice!
Steve 0861 then you have a leak and need to fix it.
I laughed when I went out to a service call for a house on contract and the home inspector said the delta T was only 13 and it should be 18. It's an r-22 ac with a piston, superheat was within the charge range.
truthfully that would mean his shits extremely over sized
Good tips. I like videos like this, because they give people like me the courage to do certain maintenance ourselves. Though, I would not use a fiberglass filter.
If you took the vent temp reading right after spraying the unit, the reading won’t be 100% accurate because the condensers job is to dissipate heat...everything has been cooled down from all the water. Wait till it dries then take the indoor temp.
In addition, the air ducts won't be as cold as soon as the ac is turned on until they become about the same temp as the air
He mostly showed the temp coming out and not what is going in. You should shoot for a 20F difference. If you have much more than that, then you probably have another issue in the system. The lower the number isn't always better.
@@shawnv7832 He should show the temp going in.Mind 74 going in and 64 coming out
VERY VERY True
@PogChamp Should be close to 20
Air flow is very important when I comes to the unit! I agree but you should not use dish soap on the unit because it can damage the coil especially on newer units it’s almost impossible to remove all the soap and what gets left behind can calcify and lead to leaks in the unit. You should use a light duty degreaser like purple power (that’s what I use) or just about every box store sells a cleaner to use. I am a tech and use to use the expensive cleaners and I’ve used many different ones and I ended up using purple power one day a few years back and now it’s all I use. And you should disconnect power to the indoor and out door units power is still being sent from the indoor to the outdoor unit. But the best advice I can give is to set up a service schedule with a company you trust. Let them come out twice a year and we clean the indoor and out door units. Plus we do a full system check and we can find and take care of little problems that become worse like a capacitor that’s weak and can lead to a fan motor going bad a $20 cap is better than a $200 motor that you’d have to replace. That’s just my 2 cents.
Purple power is not light. Very strong stuff
You don’t have to kill the low voltage to wash the coil. Are you serious? It runs in the rain. 20 year commercial, industrial and refrigeration tech.
@@dwigg7700 hey that what I said it run year round in d rain, sleet, n snow with d power on
Except most technicians will charge $300 for the labor of installing that $20 cap.
Are you in Fla???
Even cleaning the condenser coil outside Half assed with the water hose will help tremendously and when you said that the service tech cleans the condenser. Very rarely. There’s a lot of people out there doing work that want call back
Much better to take the fan off the top, set it aside and wash from the inside out, thus avoiding driving dirt into the coil stack. And do not turn the unit on for 30 mins. But yes i like your video, removal of dirt is vital for the condenser coil to do its job
Somewhere in our area is a Cottenwood tree. Every Spring my Condenser gets the fins covered with the fluff. No way would I try to push it through the fins.
Best advice is clean coils outside and the inside. The fiberglass filter will cause the indoor coil to plug up more often.
Yeah backflushing the coil is a good practice. I do it once per year. And stay on top of that filter change and NEVER run the system without a filter for an extended period unless you like ripping out a coils and flushing them out
Great information. I always pull the fan and blasto from the inside...
Awesome video! I'm switching to fiberglass filters! And I'm going to clean my outside unit like you did. South Florida summers are brutal here and it's just around the corner.
Yes,. !! Likewise here in Arizona,. we change filters once a month...
In a residential hvac tech. Basic Pleated filters are better. Fiberglass doesn't capture enough debris. He will have to pay someone like me to clean his evap coil. Second. Plain water works.and don't spray water into the condenser ( outdoor coil) you will clog it up it needs to be from inside, were the fan motor is and spray towards the out side. That will push all the debris out of the condensing coil. But he is correct. Having a clean condensing coil will save you alot of money and life of the unit but please do it correctly or pay a qualified hvac tech.
You can't spell
Not true.
Pay a guy to spray water I'm the coil with a garden hose ?? That's why nobody trust hvac technicians !!
Partially True ... pleated filters are good for 30-60
(folks forget)
Excellent video, I'm using a 4" filter and will be replacing it with a cheap 1". My AC has a difficult time keeping up when the temp hit 90 degrees and the reason might be the filter...
Thank you for this tip. You've just saved me hundreds of dollars in service call. 💯💯💯👍👍😁😁
I tried this. When i started, The temp outside was 87. My thermostate was regestering 75 down stairs with the AC going. Needless to say, it was consideralbly warmer upstairs. After following the instructions in this vidio, it was 65 downstairs after two hours, and very comfortable upstairs. Now I have to figure out how not to be too cold. This works, and works well.
Do you have one, or two, thermostats?
@@davidh807 one
@@daytonsimmons1748 unfortunately, you will probably have to live with it. Cold air is heavier, so downstairs is colder. You could try closing off a vent in a more open area to reduce the cooling downstairs.
This is great. We just moved from Alaska to Florida; as you can imagine, your video was very helpful for us. THANK YOU.
Fiberglass filters do very little when it comes with removing dust. Paper Merv 8 are a safe bet.
Very little
Bought a new to me house and the A coil was plugged from running cheap ass filters
Sometimes the condensation drain line gets plugged with junk i use my shop vac to clear the junk out, just another helpful tip to add to this.
I’ve had my indoor unit flood a couple times because of this.
Good tip stick a rubber glove on the opposite end on each pull with the shop vac. Also flip it and blow it out as well.
@@TheVectorious you need a safe t switch for the drain line and float switch for the auxiliary pan
Dont lose the rubber glove though keep a good grip on it lol
Yes! How would you do this? One question..if had continuous, hard rains in severe heat, could this cause algae and possibly stop it up?
So many things wrong with this video but I do admire you for trying to help people save money. When you clean a condenser coil it's actually best depending on the coil type, whether it be in Brush coil or fin type coil, you can take off the top where your fan is and spray with a high pressure hose( not hard enough to where it will bend the fins)but hard enough to knock out the dirt from the inside out. also use coil cleaner not soap as soap tends to oxidate an oxidation is like calcium in a sense it starts to Gunk up. Acid coil cleaner should be diluted if you have a coated coil, otherwise do not leave acid wheel cleaner on a coil for more than 5 minutes and pre-rinse before applying
Good tips. 8 years in the industry - Pleated filters are a racket. Running a 14 y/o system no problems ever just by keeping it clean inside and out. Furnace too.
Thank you the one is the video is 19 years old and I hav a second smaller unit also RUUD same vintage. Still going strong with everything you see in the video. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Agreed. Cheap filters replaced regularly is the way to go. 14 year tech.
For the outside unit, use one of the cheap carwash foaming attachments. The cheap ones from Walmart connect to your hose and do not have high pressures.
1&2 are spot on.
Better to spray from the inside (or high angle of attack as not to push the debris into the coil. Best just to keep the bushes and mulch away.
If you are returning 100 degree air and discharging 63 degree air your system is working damn good! The discharge temp will drop as the room cools.
15 to 18 degrees is the differential rule temperature.
Bravo sir keep these coming! Your videos will help make more service calls and new installs for guys that know what they are doing!
🤣🤣🤣
Yooooooo mind blown and I'm a maintenance tech. We stay away from the thin fiberglass filters now I'm going to start ordering the thin fiberglass ones asap. The soap trick is a no brainer but it make since now. It acts as a external pump/filter 🤯🤯🤯. Sir you have made my service calls and ir PM's so much easier 💰💰💰⚙️⚙️
Using soap and not cleaning it completely off will just attract more dirt. That's why it's best to either just use water or use a chemical that is meant for cleaning coils. Also, spraying up into the fins helps hit the coils. You're spraying down on the fins (also squirted the soap that way) and missing a lot of the coils
Thanks Blain. I was thinking the same exact thing.
Not just about attracting dirt. The soap itself leaves a residue when the water evaporates away. This residue can affect heat transfer and lower the efficiency of the unit.
I was thinking the same thing about the residual soap attracting dirt.
Actually,,, disconnecting power. Removing the top panel to gain access to the interior of the condenser coil, and rinsing from the inside out is the proper way to clean the coil. And by cleaning the coil and restoring air flow and reducing the head pressure also normalizes and lowers the suction pressure and boiling point of the refrigerant in the evaporator coil, thus yielding a lower supply air temp. Volumetric efficiency of the compressor is affected greatly by a dirty condenser. Condenser cleaning should be done seasonally, also helps to ensure compressor longevity.
@@cwat450 You are exactly right that the same way I do mind
In my area, cottonwood trees will clog an AC unit outside very easily. If you're extra handy, you can remove the covers for better cleaning access. I agree with the principles of this video... I clean my outside unit with a little different style, but it's the same concept.
Cottonwood trees and a/c don't work well together! Better cut those trees down!
Thank you
A million thank yous!
Cleaned my outside condenser unit that is 23 yrs old
Cool air now!
I had an old unit that I spray painted the top white to see if it would make a difference, because whenever I touched it, it was very very hot to the touch because it’s mostly in the sun all day. And what I found out was unbelievable, the top was so cool to the touch that I thought that would help the unit run better. Am I kidding myself or do you think it would help ??? Thanks 👍🏼
You are kidding yourself. The refrigerant is what transfers the heat from inside your home to the outdoor unit. The outdoor fan removes the heat from the refrigerant and sends the refrigerant back inside to collect more heat. Cabinet temperature means nothing.
The temperature coming out of your vents is based on a temperature split from the air in the room (return air). Showing us a lower supply temperature means nothing without a return temperature. Also the most common call I go to is a blown capacitor or clogged drain line.
Please help me bro. My ac blows cold at night and warm during the afternoon. I've had a ac guy come out and he changed the fan motor, compacitor and thermostat. The drain is clear and the pipe outside is getting cold so what else could be the problem after changing all of that and spending 500 bucks?😥
@@mikelowry7730 did the tech check the condition of the evaporator in the air handler? If so was it all nasty dirty and rusty, or maybe even iced up? You may also have a slow refrigerant leak - the tech should have attached a manifold to read high and low pressures. How hot is the air blowing off of the outside unit when it's running? If your system isn't exchanging heat it's struggling. You say the drain line is clear - is it dripping?
@@mikelowry7730 Find a licensed HVAC person who knows what he/she's doing. Don't let your brother in law or your neighbor tamper with your system!
Wow great tips. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for the tip! Helped fix our problem immediately
The output air temperature is only relevant if compared to the intake temperature. The differential is what is important.
"If your room is 100⁰ and youre only putting out 63⁰ air its gonna take a long time..." if you got a 37⁰ diference yoj dont have any air flow in the first place
Hes talking about split temp between return and supply, a 20 degree split is perfect. Your not gonna get really any better then that.
@@kylestandon4831 Exactly, if it were 100 F in the home, the best output temperature would be 80 F, assuming proper airflow.
Absolutely...here’s a very easy way to do it for the layman.
Take and read the temp about 2’ from your supply duct or at the 1st branch coming off your furnace. After that take your intake temp, the duct in which your air filter resides. Subtract those 2 numbers and you will have your difference. Ideal is between 15-23 degrees. This is a good simple way to tell how your hvac system is doing.
Repeat test with original filter! Otherwise your saving could all be from the filter change!
Maybe I’m 3 years late, but these are reasonable homeowner tips. Well done, SC!
You saved me a service call. mine was 77 degrees and after cleaning if t dropped to 56 degrees THANK YOU
geez, how much crap was packed in the condensor?
While taking the time to clean your condenser unit, you should go ahead and take the time to remove the panel screws, and panels, thus exposing the actual condenser coil fins. Soap them up, then flush from the inside out (back flush). The extra time will no doubt leave you with a much cleaner condenser coil, and need to be done less often.
I agree, ruclips.net/video/nsRHhU6q5RY/видео.html For some though the exterior is all they are comfortable with but at least now you can see it done both ways
After simple cleaning, life becomes so much better! Thank you for sharing.
Thank you this was a money saver and saved us from a very uncomfortable night. The tips about the filters were illuminating
Glad to hear it, thank you for letting me know.
One thing to note: the after service temperature reading might be artificially low if taken while the condenser coils are still wet from evaporative cooling.
They're gonna dry out in 3 minutes running.
@@hotrodray6802 4 minutes for mine
This worked praise God thank you so much for this video I really appreciate you taking the time to make this video
My Unit has been working overtime in these triple digits.
I see outside units with dryer vents right next to or behind outside unit a lot and man cleaning it make all the difference
I personally use engine degreaser from Walmart. Spray into coils, let foam sit for a couple of minutes, then rinse. Works wonders, and inexpensive product.
I noticed that none of the "experts" mentioned that your HVAC Filter does two (2) jobs -- it filters the air that comes out of the vents, of course -- but it ALSO filters the air that runs through the unit's internal coils.
The Merv 4 Filters that were recommended are absolute junk -- they are more of a strainer than a filter.
I'm in Phoenix, AZ -- hot as hell -- I run NORDICPURE MERV 13 Filters (Amazon.com) to keep our home dust-free, allergy-free, and comfortable year-round. The MERV 13s take out dust pollen, smoke, and odors.
Those cheap ones only keep out butterflies and low-flying birds ;>) I mark down the date of the Filter change, and inspect the Filter monthly.
Our neighbor has the same-size house, same HVAC unit, but he runs cheap fiberglass filters.
Their entire family suffers from constant allergies and high medical bills.
I can buy a year's supply of MERV 13 Filters for less than the cost of a visit to the Doctor.
And remember -- ALL-WAYS wash your coils from the INside.
You might be able to increase the speed on your indoor fan motor.
Maybe $5 a month more in electric but very comfortable otherwise.
what was the temp of the air entering the system. The delta should be about 18-22 degree for a good working system. You didnt mention teh return air temp.
He is not a tech, and neither are you. Delta T is an old standard and is not reliable unless you have a piston style(non TXV metering) non variable or ECM blower. Subcool is the standard for most all freon checks. Although Delta T is a factual check, its not what most tech use. I'm in Fla, so you may be a little different depending on your climate or conditions and equipment.
Thank you so much!!! You are the only one who really made it clear!!! We have an older rooftop unit and it struggles! Going to do that tomorrow!!! Do you recommend a hard start kit for an older unit?