Mercury V150 Blackmax Stator Replacement

#mercuryoutboard #mercuryoutboards #outboardengine #outboardmotor Stator replacement on the Mercury
Get the parts I use below:
Sierra Marine parts: amzn.to/3JTM7ND
Starter: amzn.to/3oSlUHs
Stator: amzn.to/3rvFY3W
Fly wheel puller: amzn.to/36jkAYi
Rectifier: amzn.to/3Okhapi
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[@dwayneroberts6616]

Everyone that owns a Black Max should watch this. The Black Max is well known for cooking electrical components.

[@janeycookevogt8703]

Excellent information given here.

[@ameliawoolfe4464]

Hi great video well explained. I'm in the process of working out what is wrong with my blackmax 200hp.Ithink it might be the switch box or stator.Its been a pain to start and once going sounds like it's running on 5 cylinders.Just recently I noticed the boat rpm tachometer would flicker and jump around when turning the key it.Have you heard of this?

[@southernswampstyle160]

If one of my trigger wires read high reading and drop all the way down to 2 and bounce around is that a bad trigger?

[@abyn8220]

Awesome video. I have a similar issue with my 82' BM 150hp motor. Anything else should i look into when performing a similar job? How can i confirm the switch boxes are ok? What had me look into my wiring was the motor continued to run on 3 cylinders when i turned the key off. Any advice for that issue as well? Thanks for any insight.

[@MiloFarms]

Motor running-on with the key off can be a common problem in marine applications. Two options I can think of. First if your sure its running on 3 cylinders 1 switch box may not have continuity to the kill wire. If I recall the kill wire goes to 1 switch box then has a jumper wire to the other switch box. Secondly It is often caused by low octane fuel, high engine heat, and carbon buildup. I would suggest first switch to 91 octane non ethanol fuel. Then run a heavy dose of Seafoam like 2 cans in a tank of fuel. Then any time you are going to shut the engine off after a high speed run let the engine idle to cool the cylinders down for a minute or so before shutting it off.

[@abyn8220]

Hello & thanks for the insight & quick reply. Yeah, the motor is seriously running on 3 cylinders. It isnt a case where u turn off a motor & it after runs like an 60's/70's v8!
The boat runs great otherwise/despite the 2 fried wires going to the rectifier. I plan to go with the cdi replacement stator, unless you have a better recommendation. I will look into which bank of cylinders is running after turning off. I need to get the motor good & warmed up for it to not die when its cold. If i dont find anything wrong with the switch boxes, is there a way to diagnose / look into the kill switch. I verified continuity to ground to the blk/yellow & just black wire going to the switch box. Thanks again, aby @@MiloFarms

[@MiloFarms]

I would definitely replace the bad wires and the rectifier along with the stator. Something is definitely preventing the kill switch from grounding 1 of the control boxes. @@abyn8220

[@joshwarren4096]

R the yellow wires side specific? Or can they hook up either side?

[@MiloFarms]

The yellows can go on either of the 2 input pins of the rectifier. See the video at 6:57. The other pin is labeled +

[@RamonCruz-gc1st]

Great video what year is the motor in the video

[@MiloFarms]

1979. Its an early one right before the oil injection was added

[@ew7007]

Lots of good info here and I'm getting ready to do the same to my 135. But... no follow up? C'mon. Did it run? Did it blow up? Poor follow through kind of ruins all the great work you did in this first video.

[@MiloFarms]

It did start and run and has run great all summer. Smoother idle and top end then it ever has since I have owned it. I had a recording of it starting and running but due to technical difficulties the video was lost. I have another video that is not as good I may try to edit and post in the coming weeks.

[@ew7007]

@@MiloFarms Thank you for the reply. If you put up the video I promise to watch and Like it. haha