This is an instruction video on how to assemble my 3D-printable hidden blade from Assassin's Creed! You will find the stl-files here: www.thingivers...
I reworked this entire model. I even made a pla part for the duel extended blade to lock (the part where the camera apparently crashed). I will upload it to thingiverse if there's enough people who are still interested in this design. It works amazingly well in fact it's one of my favorites
Okay so I've been working on this for a week now, and I've had to modify a few things, and fix several parts that broke because they were too thin. A week later, I've still not been able to amass enough bands for the slide mechanism to work consistently after I've attached it to my arm. Also on that note, the hole, I suppose, for the string to slide through to attach to the ring provides a lot more friction than perhaps it should while trying to activate it via ringpull attached to the hand, HOWEVER, were I to pull it straight, rather than at an angle created by my wrist, it works _mostly_ fine. I say mostly because again, I've not figured out how many bands of the type I'm using (the only ones I've been able to find that fit without a lot of interference are elastic hair ties) will create the force needed to shunt the blade all the way out and back. So far I think I've got six in there, and Gravity is still the champion when it comes to both extension and retraction. My next idea would end up being Shirring Elastic, wrapped multiple times. I also believe that perhaps some of the segments should have been thicker than they are. Were it that they were made of metal there would be no strength issues, however, being plastic as they are, their integrity and ability to withstand some of the forces does worry me. I've already mentioned in another comment below about the Blade housing being thin enough to actually break from activation. I would also recommend thickening out the backplate, and adding more mass upfront where the string hole is, rather than just the block with the hole, to strengthen the entire area. I doubt many, if anyone, would really mind if the whole unit was much thicker if it meant a sturdier construction. I'll update this in the future when I've gotten the mechanism to work 100% of the time. I'm also wondering if some fishing wire would reduce the friction and the weird activation issue (currently using multiple strands of cotton thread). TL;DR: certain parts need to be thicker or need more plastic added to increase the rigidity and strength.
First of all thank you so much for your detailed review/report so far! This helps a lot. I will try to improve the blade through your thoughts as soon as possible. -> I am still very busy at the moment but hopefully this will change in the next two month.
I'm not sure why you made the slider in 2 parts to be glued together. Doesn't printing them in one piece makes the slider stronger? Other than that great video!
This design is awesome! but I have a couple questions about the blade pieces: When you put the blade together, how does the locking pin-piece automatically lock itself when the blade is not blocking it? Is there a rubber band, and if so, where? And it would be really helpful if you could show how to assemble it (only if you find time). Thanks!
Aye, I could really use this info aswell, just paid someone to print this out and I've no idea how it's supposed to spring in! EDIT!!: turns out, in that little slot behind the pin, you're supposed to superglue a section of rubber band as seen here: ruclips.net/video/XsvKXsWY-Js/видео.htmlm38s hope this helps you as much as it does me!
that's it! I did it like it is shown in the video 'SliceyMcBreadmaker' linked. You will probably need many tries till it is working smoothly! @SliceyMcBreadmaker Thank you for the trust in my model! :D I hope you are not disappointed and it won't turn out to be a mistake. I remind you that it is just a prototype and may not work propely for you. If you have any further question please feel free to ask me! I will try to help you as much as I can. :)
@@yoshiolsen6568 Absolute banger of a model lad, I'm just waiting on elastic bands thin enough to power the blade slide, but after spending a day and a half easily filling the plastic down and making it all flow well, I'm ecstatic, honestly! kudos lad, your design is one of the best two-section blades I've seen!
I would, however, recommend that the second segment, the blade sleeve, be beefed up a little and the thickness of the main body to account for that, as I managed to tear through the actual sleeve by simply activating the mechanism.
Hi. Excellent job with your hidden blade it is pretty cool. I like the fact you did it extended. I know piggy jj already did but yours is better. Just a thing: how do you use it with a ring?
thank you! In the files you will find besides the middle-switch with a button, a middle-switch without a button and also a closed cover. At the front of this switch is a hole where you can attach a string (with a ring if you like :D). I hope this confusing explanation is answering your question. ;)
200x35x15mm (without the holders at the side) 4:18 -> the hole is at the left side of the part (you can't see the hole in the video because of the perspective)
Yo, this was sick and I been working on mine. After sanding some rough patches here and there, I got the thing work. The issues I kept running through was that the blade never really retract or appear all the way. It somehow alway goes to some area to the blade house or either the slider that seem to be tighter. I try sanding it away but I don't want to take off too much. It worse when I place the rest where I dry test them to see and we'll, it would work. Maybe it was the rubber band I used but even without the cover, i remained back at the root of the problem (I think) where it was tight in the middle, back.
Alright so an update. long story short: it works. But (for me at least) it needs to be modified mostly on the upper portion of the whole thing. The two arms that are with the wheel needed the most of it because the angles (The one that makes the center switch move back and forth whenever you use the string) needed to be beefed up quite a bit, but not so much that it interferes with the slider. The inner walls were also a bit too thin, which made the switch barely even touching the ramps. Luckily this was fixed by adding several cut pieces of thin cardboard (such as cereal box or, what I used, the cardboard portion of a pack of batteries or screws in this case) on both side on the wall where the arms go. Measure and cut them just about the width and height. same thing with the arms, albeit you need to stack them enough. Continue to scrape and sand some layers off from there until it works. It is a bit time consuming, but you'll get there. The second obstacle occurred during a test run. Whenever I put the whole thing together and pull the trigger, it didn't work. I try several times to figure out what was the issue until I found out that the left arm that sit right on top of the slider (The one that activates the blade) keeps popping up. What I meant when I say this was, whenever I pull the string, the arm automatically derails itself from the slider. I later found out that the reason for it was the cover. Turns out it was so thin and flexible that it doesn't have enough strength to keep the arms down, essentially preventing the derailment. This was quickly fixed with some rubber bands on the center, which the issue keeps going over. however, there are better solutions to this, either reinforced the cover, make an entire cover out of wood so that it doesn't flex, or you can edit the file to make it thicker. Hope this helps!
Hi, I'm having a lot of issues getting the blade to eject properly. I believe i've done something wrong with the slider mechanism, how many rubber bands does it take?
it depends on the rubber bands (tension)^^ I use three/four of these small ones shown in the video. you have to try it out what or wich works best for you! ;) In another blade I use other rubber bands because the small ones didn`t work properly for it.... so it`s mostly trial and error
My God this is driving the hell out of me from assembling it. You NEED to make the thin parts thicker and please please keep in mind, glue won't withstand the rubber band
Hola muy buen diseño. Puede ser que la traba de la hoja que lleva un trozo de alambre lleve alguna gomita por dentro? Para que se trabe cuando la hoja se extiende
Great work! I would also like to know whether you came up with the idea for the thing with the rubber band on it that slides back and forth to control the whole blade or you saw it some where else.
Dude i just litterally freaking out to assermble the blade cover, because idk how to put back the little pice inside with only the printed thing, the missing part of the crashed camera is not understandable, pls someone can help me, i'm in struggle for two weeks, and re-printed the blade cover like 4 times
Can you add a blade that is not extended to the files because I can't get the extended one to work and I think that just one blade is lot more stable and reliable, since the extended one feels flimsy and only part of it extends most of the time and I have to pull the blade, and also if you can't/don't have time to make the new blade, then can you give me the measurements to to the blade, the part in the middle that sinks in etc so I can design my own.
Someone (and by that I mean Chase H. -> thanks man;) ) created a remix of the HB on Thingiverse. This should work! But for the future I plan also an extra version for it^^ Hopefully I will find the time for the whole projekt soon.....
I'm sorry that it didn't work out for you. Could you please give me some more information about your problem? Maybe I am able to help you! -> clearance? (loose fit? ...) -> to much friction? ... Every 3D-Printer performs differnet. So it mite not work for you but maybe it will work for others. With your help I could try to improve it so it will also work for you! ;)
Could you explain why the extentions on the 2 blocking/pushing parts? Why no just stretch the rubber band e full length? I ask because i am having trouble getting mine to extend and retract with enough force. I understand the strength of the bands vary from person to person as well, so I'm hesitant to blame the design just yet.
like you suggested you could use the full length of the main body to get the needed tension. for me it works better with the extensions^^ but be careful when you shorten them! the blocking/pushng parts may not slide accurate on their 'rail' when the extensions are to short. and I definitely have to say that this design is not perfect. It is just a prototype ;) so you are allowed to blame it :D
I think they are called 'loom bands' . ->Low quallity but for testing things out they are great. 3-4 bands are used on the slider mechanism. All in all I recommend better rubber bands. I just used these because my brother had them laying around :D
I still try to improve the blade, and so I would not sell it at this point. Maybe in the near future. I consider a price somewhere around 70€ but I am definitely not sure about that yet.
I've been looking at hidden blade desings for 5+ years now. This is the best one by far.
Me too bud
Same
what does he do when the camera cashes tho
Not really,checkout Rawice's channel
ruclips.net/video/ZNnq1Y7U4Xg/видео.html how is this? I also have a better more slim one with medieval carves.
I reworked this entire model. I even made a pla part for the duel extended blade to lock (the part where the camera apparently crashed). I will upload it to thingiverse if there's enough people who are still interested in this design. It works amazingly well in fact it's one of my favorites
Link?
@@SuperTommy117 I'll upload them in a bit and give you a link. What printer do you have?
@@AntiKipKay that would be awesome thank you!! And I have a cr10 s pro v2. Amazing printer in my opinion! :)
@@SuperTommy117 ok here you go www.thingiverse.com/thing:4694383
@@SuperTommy117 Also I only uploaded the files I worked on so you still need to download the rest from the original creator
You're the best bro, the brotherhood will always be by you.
2:50 that piece at the left end is TOO THIN!
Okay so I've been working on this for a week now, and I've had to modify a few things, and fix several parts that broke because they were too thin. A week later, I've still not been able to amass enough bands for the slide mechanism to work consistently after I've attached it to my arm. Also on that note, the hole, I suppose, for the string to slide through to attach to the ring provides a lot more friction than perhaps it should while trying to activate it via ringpull attached to the hand, HOWEVER, were I to pull it straight, rather than at an angle created by my wrist, it works _mostly_ fine.
I say mostly because again, I've not figured out how many bands of the type I'm using (the only ones I've been able to find that fit without a lot of interference are elastic hair ties) will create the force needed to shunt the blade all the way out and back. So far I think I've got six in there, and Gravity is still the champion when it comes to both extension and retraction. My next idea would end up being Shirring Elastic, wrapped multiple times. I also believe that perhaps some of the segments should have been thicker than they are. Were it that they were made of metal there would be no strength issues, however, being plastic as they are, their integrity and ability to withstand some of the forces does worry me. I've already mentioned in another comment below about the Blade housing being thin enough to actually break from activation. I would also recommend thickening out the backplate, and adding more mass upfront where the string hole is, rather than just the block with the hole, to strengthen the entire area. I doubt many, if anyone, would really mind if the whole unit was much thicker if it meant a sturdier construction.
I'll update this in the future when I've gotten the mechanism to work 100% of the time. I'm also wondering if some fishing wire would reduce the friction and the weird activation issue (currently using multiple strands of cotton thread).
TL;DR: certain parts need to be thicker or need more plastic added to increase the rigidity and strength.
First of all thank you so much for your detailed review/report so far! This helps a lot.
I will try to improve the blade through your thoughts as soon as possible.
-> I am still very busy at the moment but hopefully this will change in the next two month.
@@yoshiolsen6568 are you still there
Interesting design, very similar to the one that Shelden Caudill did, only without the ring. Looks pretty good :)
I'm 3D printing it right now. I hope I can assemble it properly. Wish me luck.
So, how did it go? I want to print this one too so i wanted to ask if you had any problems or something with this.
@@BIANCOBA Never fully assembled it becuase I couldn't find small rubber bands and the appropriate screws lol
@@baconpancakes8899 lmao 😂😂
@@baconpancakes8899 Try using loom bands
@@baconpancakes8899 The 'loom bands' should work they are very good for blades!
what does he do when the camera cashes ???????????????
Having some struggles assembling the blade as it isn't shown how the hinge works. Do you care to elaborate on that if you're still active?
You could try to make the button one activete from the flexing of the wrist muscle, like described in the game
That mechanism is almost impossible to design.
Imdeepainreborn did it, check his youtube channel
Good work. Creality cr 10 is the best 3d printed quality for this project
thank you!
I'm not sure why you made the slider in 2 parts to be glued together. Doesn't printing them in one piece makes the slider stronger? Other than that great video!
I did everything as you did.. but still not working at all.. I don't know did I do wrong.. :/
Is that from shelden Caudill paper hidden blade prototype? I think it similar expecially the spring out and spring in triggerer part
Which 3d software is best u ever used
Nice video, could you maybe update it or make another one for the ring
This is the ring mechanism....
Is the ring mechanism working for this?
Hi! Could you upload a video demonstration of the alternate version as well, the one you use a string and a ring to open?
You attach a string and ring to the mechanism bruh
This design is awesome! but I have a couple questions about the blade pieces: When you put the blade together, how does the locking pin-piece automatically lock itself when the blade is not blocking it? Is there a rubber band, and if so, where? And it would be really helpful if you could show how to assemble it (only if you find time). Thanks!
Aye, I could really use this info aswell, just paid someone to print this out and I've no idea how it's supposed to spring in!
EDIT!!: turns out, in that little slot behind the pin, you're supposed to superglue a section of rubber band as seen here: ruclips.net/video/XsvKXsWY-Js/видео.htmlm38s
hope this helps you as much as it does me!
that's it! I did it like it is shown in the video 'SliceyMcBreadmaker' linked. You will probably need many tries till it is working smoothly!
@SliceyMcBreadmaker Thank you for the trust in my model! :D
I hope you are not disappointed and it won't turn out to be a mistake. I remind you that it is just a prototype and may not work propely for you.
If you have any further question please feel free to ask me! I will try to help you as much as I can. :)
@@yoshiolsen6568 Absolute banger of a model lad, I'm just waiting on elastic bands thin enough to power the blade slide, but after spending a day and a half easily filling the plastic down and making it all flow well, I'm ecstatic, honestly! kudos lad, your design is one of the best two-section blades I've seen!
I would, however, recommend that the second segment, the blade sleeve, be beefed up a little and the thickness of the main body to account for that, as I managed to tear through the actual sleeve by simply activating the mechanism.
Hi. Excellent job with your hidden blade it is pretty cool. I like the fact you did it extended. I know piggy jj already did but yours is better. Just a thing: how do you use it with a ring?
Officially there isn't a ring. It's a button version. But if you will attach the ring to the button, you will get a ring version.
thank you!
In the files you will find besides the middle-switch with a button, a middle-switch without a button and also a closed cover. At the front of this switch is a hole where you can attach a string (with a ring if you like :D).
I hope this confusing explanation is answering your question. ;)
Yoshi Olsen Just one more thing please: how big is the blade?
Yoshi Olsen And one more, to use it with string, where should I attach the string, in the middle part/switch?
200x35x15mm (without the holders at the side)
4:18 -> the hole is at the left side of the part (you can't see the hole in the video because of the perspective)
Yo, this was sick and I been working on mine. After sanding some rough patches here and there, I got the thing work. The issues I kept running through was that the blade never really retract or appear all the way.
It somehow alway goes to some area to the blade house or either the slider that seem to be tighter. I try sanding it away but I don't want to take off too much.
It worse when I place the rest where I dry test them to see and we'll, it would work. Maybe it was the rubber band I used but even without the cover, i remained back at the root of the problem (I think) where it was tight in the middle, back.
Alright so an update.
long story short: it works. But (for me at least) it needs to be modified mostly on the upper portion of the whole thing.
The two arms that are with the wheel needed the most of it because the angles (The one that makes the center switch move back and forth whenever you use the string) needed to be beefed up quite a bit, but not so much that it interferes with the slider. The inner walls were also a bit too thin, which made the switch barely even touching the ramps.
Luckily this was fixed by adding several cut pieces of thin cardboard (such as cereal box or, what I used, the cardboard portion of a pack of batteries or screws in this case) on both side on the wall where the arms go. Measure and cut them just about the width and height. same thing with the arms, albeit you need to stack them enough. Continue to scrape and sand some layers off from there until it works. It is a bit time consuming, but you'll get there.
The second obstacle occurred during a test run. Whenever I put the whole thing together and pull the trigger, it didn't work. I try several times to figure out what was the issue until I found out that the left arm that sit right on top of the slider (The one that activates the blade) keeps popping up. What I meant when I say this was, whenever I pull the string, the arm automatically derails itself from the slider.
I later found out that the reason for it was the cover. Turns out it was so thin and flexible that it doesn't have enough strength to keep the arms down, essentially preventing the derailment. This was quickly fixed with some rubber bands on the center, which the issue keeps going over.
however, there are better solutions to this, either reinforced the cover, make an entire cover out of wood so that it doesn't flex, or you can edit the file to make it thicker.
Hope this helps!
Hi, I'm having a lot of issues getting the blade to eject properly. I believe i've done something wrong with the slider mechanism, how many rubber bands does it take?
it depends on the rubber bands (tension)^^ I use three/four of these small ones shown in the video. you have to try it out what or wich works best for you! ;) In another blade I use other rubber bands because the small ones didn`t work properly for it.... so it`s mostly trial and error
My God this is driving the hell out of me from assembling it. You NEED to make the thin parts thicker and please please keep in mind, glue won't withstand the rubber band
gracias por hacer esto gratis buen tutorial
Hola muy buen diseño. Puede ser que la traba de la hoja que lleva un trozo de alambre lleve alguna gomita por dentro? Para que se trabe cuando la hoja se extiende
nah bro
How do you get it to retract?
Hey buddy ı want the ask something if ı PUT there a Ring and a rope it's can be automatic blade?
pls respond what size screws did you use i what to make this
What is the nut size
what with string
Great work! I would also like to know whether you came up with the idea for the thing with the rubber band on it that slides back and forth to control the whole blade or you saw it some where else.
could you please post the part when the camera crashes
this is a double mechanism?
The one part I can't figure out is the inner blade lock. Please help
Hey i wanted to ask, does the external blade lock? I mean, the first part of the blade. I would like to know because i want to print this one too 😅
And the paper clip? My God, one micro meter out and the whole thing jams
How is your 3d printer printing so excellent smooth?
I sanded all the parts before I recorded this video so that they fit perfectly.
Or do you mean something else?
No, thats it, Thanks ;D
Creality cr 10
Does the blade lock?
Parts list? ik its pretty simple but still, i wanna get it right
what is the thickness of the blade?
the whole body is 15mm thick
Hey, Yoshi I was just wondering were to attach string and ring to please! Love this design a lot thanks!
LOL deez nuts
how hard this is to make and what printer did you use
Dude i just litterally freaking out to assermble the blade cover, because idk how to put back the little pice inside with only the printed thing, the missing part of the crashed camera is not understandable, pls someone can help me, i'm in struggle for two weeks, and re-printed the blade cover like 4 times
i will try to help you
@@furk4n05 i figured out how to do it, thanks anyway
@@matteofranciosa2207 can you explain?
@@matteofranciosa2207 EXPLAIN
@@furk4n05 how i can do it? i have the same problem
what did you do that the blocker springs back at 1:22 ? my one dont
Did you find the exit in this problem? I dont know how to do it too.
@@alexkarev2118 ye figured it out. just did a ruberband into the hole and glued it on
@@theGigander123 i have the same problem, can you explain better please?
thank you for the file
How do i attach the rope with the ring if i dont want it with button?
Make the buton a litle bit thin and the atach the string to the slider i gues
How long did it actually take you bro ?
how do you make it activated through string pull
1:20 what did you do here explain?
how to assamble middle_part_2?
4:10 -> use some superglue for it
Thanks man.
How do I get this model
Would this design technically work as a full metal version as well?
Yes
please show what you did when the camera crashed
I found out how and if i am not wrong the screws are 2 and half mm wide
Can you add a blade that is not extended to the files because I can't get the extended one to work and I think that just one blade is lot more stable and reliable, since the extended one feels flimsy and only part of it extends most of the time and I have to pull the blade, and also if you can't/don't have time to make the new blade, then can you give me the measurements to to the blade, the part in the middle that sinks in etc so I can design my own.
Someone (and by that I mean Chase H. -> thanks man;) ) created a remix of the HB on Thingiverse. This should work! But for the future I plan also an extra version for it^^ Hopefully I will find the time for the whole projekt soon.....
@@yoshiolsen6568 can You please give me the link to the files?
DOPE
good idea, but kinda crap, i printed the whole thing and it didnt work. 2 days work for nothing
I'm sorry that it didn't work out for you. Could you please give me some more information about your problem? Maybe I am able to help you!
-> clearance? (loose fit? ...)
-> to much friction?
...
Every 3D-Printer performs differnet. So it mite not work for you but maybe it will work for others. With your help I could try to improve it so it will also work for you! ;)
I'm pretty sure he spend more than 2 days working on this, probably weeks. Don't be surprised if you spend 2 days and it doesn't work.
horrible, how do you record a tutorial video and let your camera to crush and just continue without showing what was lost before?
Could you explain why the extentions on the 2 blocking/pushing parts? Why no just stretch the rubber band e full length?
I ask because i am having trouble getting mine to extend and retract with enough force. I understand the strength of the bands vary from person to person as well, so I'm hesitant to blame the design just yet.
like you suggested you could use the full length of the main body to get the needed tension. for me it works better with the extensions^^ but be careful when you shorten them! the blocking/pushng parts may not slide accurate on their 'rail' when the extensions are to short.
and I definitely have to say that this design is not perfect. It is just a prototype ;) so you are allowed to blame it :D
how can made assassin gun samelike this
What materials do we need?
PLA Filament
What kind of/size rubber bands do you use? and how many do you use on the slider mechanism?
I think they are called 'loom bands' .
->Low quallity but for testing things out they are great.
3-4 bands are used on the slider mechanism.
All in all I recommend better rubber bands. I just used these because my brother had them laying around :D
@@yoshiolsen6568Thanks
can you show me the design??????please!!!!!
video description ;)
this is too thin to even 3d print
justin zhao wrong. You can print with ever 0.01mm layer heights with 3D printers. Get your facts straight.
Or at the least subtitles
How much to buy one pre assembled off you ?
I still try to improve the blade, and so I would not sell it at this point.
Maybe in the near future. I consider a price somewhere around 70€ but I am definitely not sure about that yet.
@@yoshiolsen6568 My friend. I bet you can charge more than 100€ for a functional one ;)
My ass yes, the camera crashed
rather said that it was a difficult stage and that you were too lazy to film it !! Pfff
😢😢😢😫 say to him We need you
Watch out this is a complete scam it doesnt work at all this shitbox needs the power times 500 to work it gets out about 2 cm
What filament did you use
PLA