So great we still have the great Trekworks, the O.G. of modeling how to videos. You helped start a load of other channels on RUclips and helped out other modelers !Thanks, Boyd, for your service!
Love this build! Just a note: the +ve and -ve terminals on LED strips are in parallel, so you can daisy chain them with no loss of voltage to the downstream strips. Power would only be interrupted if one of the wires broke.
Top notch work on the lighting! It's good that you know how to do all that. I've never understood the mathematics behind the current, power needed, what the lights can handle, etc.
Thanks, it's not all that complicated these days. If you operate everything at 9 volts a 470 ohm 1/4 watt resistor will work for almost any type of LED. The LED strip lighting has built in resistors and will work fine anywhere between 9-12 volts dc. The SMD's are also pre wired with resistors to work between 9-12 volts dc. In most cases with lighting models, 9 volts is perfect for the level of brightness which is why I stick to that.
The light blocking is perfect on this model. My first attempt at that (same model) was not as successful because some light came through the seams despite using plenty of putty. But I am learning a great deal here.
It’s hard to say how much your help is appreciated Boyd. But I’ll try. ❤ you’re the best. It’s a crazy world and hobbies help me keep it together… and you help with that. You make a difference. Thank you.
Have you ever considered using a wide bowl to set the saucer on for stability while you work in it? I'm still in the gathering and research mode, though I have played with some of the interiors, and I feel your videos are a must for all the little tips you give.
I've been watching this new series and it's inspired me to get out my 350 Enterprise again and try again. What wire are you using nowadays? I think you mentioned it at some point but I think I missed it. If I recall correctly you're not using the magnet wire anymore?
Nice and steady indeed! This'll be on par with all of your other builds. I was wondering, what kind of insulation is covering you wrapping wire? Looking forward to the next video.🙂
@@triskellian The insulation is called Kynar; and the wire is solid core, not stranded. There is 30ga vinyl wire that is much thicker than the wire wrap wire, so be wary when ordering.
@@wesleybeaver Thanks for the information! I've tried solid wire before and I found it not flexible enough for my uses. I like 26 gauge stranded wire the best on many of my projects.
I'm a somewhat beginning modeler, working on this for the first time. Actually, I've been working on it for 3 years or so! Anyway, any recommendations for not covering details? I used a white Tamiya primer and flat white paint, and the panel lines, especially the ones on the area behind the impulse dome above the engines, end up getting filled in with paint. Same with the details in the blue area surrounding the impulse dome. I understand this can be avoided by using less paint, but when I do that every time I buff that area I end up taking paint off of it, even with 1500 grade sanding foam.
Where'd you get those nifty grey "helping hands?" (joke) Yeah-- why those guys used such heavy duty wire gauge for simple LED lighting is a mystery. 30ga can handle a half amp, for example. I very much agree with the tip of doing each joint as you go-- I have,, indeed, left joints undone! Luckily discovered out of the project.
These videos are a huge help… can’t express my thanks enough. I’m new when it comes to electronics…. Question on the positive/negative rings of wire you’re soldiering to. Any concerns with the positive /negative soldering points being so close together? Is there
Boyd, great build series. I am enjoying and learning. Question: why did you start with using magnet wire for the LEDs and then migrate to wire wrap? Why didn’t you use one or the other for all of them? Confused about that.
Hi Boyd. Do you ever use an epoxy for added structural strength on the upper saucer joins or elsewhere on the model? Love the vids… great tutelage for when I do mine.🙏🏼
I guess it depends. In most cases good clean plastic parts glued together with a quality model glue is very strong. But, in places of high load due to weight, like the neck/saucer area of this model, I'll use expoxy for extra support.
Hey. Looking good so far. On the subject of this video and somewhat not, have you had a chance to work with LED filament wire? I’ve seen them lately in some other models. Mainly used to create fire or rocket flame. I was thinking of using some in my 350, but also I’m doing the 1/1000 refit. In the small refit I think it would work the best. Especially in the warp necells. The LED tape in the smaller refit loves to show hot spots. For the 350 depending on the density and how small in length I’m thing for the bridge flood lights. You thoughts?
Great work as always Boyd! I was wondering how the officers lounge was going to be lit. Can you tell me if you removed any additional plastic from the inner support ring after all the side pieces were secured and puttied? That's what it looked like from what I could see.
@@TrekWorks That's what it looked like when I was watching today (yesterday?) Makes sense though. With the side pieces already locked down and puttied, the openings could be widened without sacrificing structural integrity.
I am new to building and I am following your videos. I have a a few questions. Do you have a supply list? What glue are you using? I remember in that past some glue would destroy parts so I want to be careful. I also need a airbrush. Mine is from the 90's and it was junk then. What would you recommend? Any other parts I should order? I ordered all the 3d printed parts recommend by you from HDA .
There is a supply list of what I used here at the end of the video. I'm using CA glue to glue the LED tape and wiring in place along with the accelerator for it to make it dry quickly. For the model itself, any quality model glue suitable for styrene plastic will work. For clear parts, I use canopy glue. It won't melt or stain those. I recommend the Iwata eclipse airbrush for general airbrush painting and their HP series for fine detail work. I have both and with good maintenance they will last for years.
Again, so good to have this in detail from a master builder! I have a question: sometimes when I have done lighting that includes navigation and strobe lighting I notice that when the strobes flash the other lights dim. Obviously I am not supplying enough power somewhere but I am using the correct voltage for both the board and the led strips (like you, I use 9V) and I almost always use pre-wired leds or smds which are rated for 9V usage. Do you have any suggestions for what I am doing wrong? Maybe you could address that in one of your future videos? Many thanks!
Your power supply isn’t regulated and that’s why the always-on lights dim when the nav/strobe lights flash. Get a good switching power supply and it keeps the supplied current steady.
It may be a lack of amperage issue. If not enough, the lights will dim when the additional load kicks in (the blinking). I suggest using a 2 amp power supply at minimum. Going too high won't hurt anything because the circuit will only draw what it needs. Too low and problems can occur.
@@RossAWaddell Many thanks; I have been thinking of the voltage rather than the current so from what you and Boyd have said it looks like that is the problem.
Great job, Boyd. Would filling the holes with canopy glue or something to diffuse the light so they look more like windows instead of pin pricks of light work or would they be too dark?
Do you mean the window ports? If so, yes, I use canopy glue on those if they are small enough and it works great. It doesn't dry completely clear so it eliminates the sparkly light from the LED's. Also, the clear UV curing resin, Solarez, works excellent. That's probably what I'll use on the saucer edge windows here.
I wouldn't use foil because it is conductive and not a good idea around the electrics. Surprisingly, it adds a lot of weight too. I've found that white is the best for reflecting and not changing the color of the light. With silver, I noticed the light in the windows etc, would look either blueish or even green.
I’ve had good results using liquid flux on the led ribbons when soldering wires to it , also I try to keep my solder temps under 350. Do u run into any issues ever burning any of the ribbons or connectors on your boards ?
I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder on these thin wires so no flux is needed. I haven't had issues with burning anything as the very hot tip only takes a second to do the job and the heat doesn't get time to soak in.
What type of dupli color primer do you use? I'm following along your build for tips while building an original AMT TOS Enterprise. I eventually want to build a refit but it's a bit of a challenge right now.
A little late but, you soldering iron is way too hot. The solder you are using has flux in it, when your iron is so hot it just boils off the flux and makes things harder to solder. 300c or 540f is plenty hot for that work. I will also melt the insulation and cause pullback. It also causes the tip to degrade much faster.
Love how clean and not bulky your lighting system is for your models!
Thanks, it's simple but effective and reliable.
So great we still have the great Trekworks, the O.G. of modeling how to videos. You helped start a load of other channels on RUclips and helped out other modelers !Thanks, Boyd, for your service!
Thanks, it's been great watching the many new modeling channels popping up and sharing the hobby we all love.
First light test. Thanks Boyd ! Couldn’t have done it without your incredible help.
This is like watching the Joy of Painting, but with Trek Models. Boyd needs to get a pet squirrel.
Hah, you aren't the first person to mention that :) I loved Bobs show so I'll take it :)
Love this build! Just a note: the +ve and -ve terminals on LED strips are in parallel, so you can daisy chain them with no loss of voltage to the downstream strips. Power would only be interrupted if one of the wires broke.
Excellent video Boyd. Thank you for going through your whole process of wiring and lighting so far for the build. See you in the next one :)
Top notch work on the lighting! It's good that you know how to do all that. I've never understood the mathematics behind the current, power needed, what the lights can handle, etc.
Thanks, it's not all that complicated these days. If you operate everything at 9 volts a 470 ohm 1/4 watt resistor will work for almost any type of LED. The LED strip lighting has built in resistors and will work fine anywhere between 9-12 volts dc. The SMD's are also pre wired with resistors to work between 9-12 volts dc. In most cases with lighting models, 9 volts is perfect for the level of brightness which is why I stick to that.
@@TrekWorks Oh okay! That's very good to know! I've noticed that you use 9 volts frequently so that explains it. Thank you for the tip! 😁
I appreciate the details this time around. Thanks for taking it slow and showing us the process! Great work.
The light blocking is perfect on this model. My first attempt at that (same model) was not as successful because some light came through the seams despite using plenty of putty. But I am learning a great deal here.
Great info Boyd. I followed your way of lighting on my 1/537 scale refit last year, she still looking good after hours and hours of being turned on.
Cool to hear this stuff helped you out :)
Boyd, this is very cool. Your attention to wiring detail is excellent. Watching this was way fun. This build is going to be awesome when complete.
I hope these videos around when I get to retire, and I can use this as a template to build my Enterprise. Good stuff!
They will be unless of course You Tube itself were to go away.
At final test the strip light on the port side has some dead LED's. But you probably caught that by now. Great looking stuff!
Good eye! I did see it after I did the burn in time on the bench. Goes to show there's a good reason to test them :)
Looks amazing! Another masterpiece in the works
Boyd, thank you very much for the build series. 👍
It’s hard to say how much your help is appreciated Boyd. But I’ll try. ❤ you’re the best. It’s a crazy world and hobbies help me keep it together… and you help with that. You make a difference. Thank you.
Thank you, glad to hear the videos help you out. A good hobby never hurt anybody :)
Boyd great update on the upper saucer section for lighting on this Refit build looking forward on the next update thanks for sharing have a great day.
Thanks Ken, Happy holidays buddy.
Have you ever considered using a wide bowl to set the saucer on for stability while you work in it?
I'm still in the gathering and research mode, though I have played with some of the interiors, and I feel your videos are a must for all the little tips you give.
Fantastic video series Boyd!
Glad your enjoying it. It's been really fun working on a Refit again.
Is there a little Scotty helping you? Cause that looks a little too real! :)
Great teacher!
I've been watching this new series and it's inspired me to get out my 350 Enterprise again and try again. What wire are you using nowadays? I think you mentioned it at some point but I think I missed it. If I recall correctly you're not using the magnet wire anymore?
Nice and steady indeed! This'll be on par with all of your other builds. I was wondering, what kind of insulation is covering you wrapping wire? Looking forward to the next video.🙂
It's vinyl I believe.
@@TrekWorks Thanks Boyd. It almost looked like that magnet wire you used to use. 30 gauge is pretty fine, even stranded!
@@triskellian The insulation is called Kynar; and the wire is solid core, not stranded. There is 30ga vinyl wire that is much thicker than the wire wrap wire, so be wary when ordering.
@@wesleybeaver Thanks for the information! I've tried solid wire before and I found it not flexible enough for my uses. I like 26 gauge stranded wire the best on many of my projects.
I'm a somewhat beginning modeler, working on this for the first time. Actually, I've been working on it for 3 years or so! Anyway, any recommendations for not covering details? I used a white Tamiya primer and flat white paint, and the panel lines, especially the ones on the area behind the impulse dome above the engines, end up getting filled in with paint. Same with the details in the blue area surrounding the impulse dome. I understand this can be avoided by using less paint, but when I do that every time I buff that area I end up taking paint off of it, even with 1500 grade sanding foam.
Where'd you get those nifty grey "helping hands?" (joke) Yeah-- why those guys used such heavy duty wire gauge for simple LED lighting is a mystery. 30ga can handle a half amp, for example. I very much agree with the tip of doing each joint as you go-- I have,, indeed, left joints undone! Luckily discovered out of the project.
Thank you for going slow with the solder Technik. I tend to get overzealous with it and burn through stuff.
These videos are a huge help… can’t express my thanks enough.
I’m new when it comes to electronics…. Question on the positive/negative rings of wire you’re soldiering to.
Any concerns with the positive /negative soldering points being so close together?
Is there
No, as long as you secure them with good glue it will be fine.
@@TrekWorks Wonderful, thank you so much and your skills are top notch!!
Boyd, great build series. I am enjoying and learning. Question: why did you start with using magnet wire for the LEDs and then migrate to wire wrap? Why didn’t you use one or the other for all of them? Confused about that.
I switched to the wrapping wire a few years ago when I found it. Mainly because it's more flexible and the vinyl coating is easier to strip.
@@TrekWorks Very good, sir. Noted. I will try the wire wrap wire as well. Thanks again and keep up the good work. Your work is top notch.
Hi Boyd. Do you ever use an epoxy for added structural strength on the upper saucer joins or elsewhere on the model?
Love the vids… great tutelage for when I do mine.🙏🏼
I guess it depends. In most cases good clean plastic parts glued together with a quality model glue is very strong. But, in places of high load due to weight, like the neck/saucer area of this model, I'll use expoxy for extra support.
Hey. Looking good so far. On the subject of this video and somewhat not, have you had a chance to work with LED filament wire? I’ve seen them lately in some other models. Mainly used to create fire or rocket flame. I was thinking of using some in my 350, but also I’m doing the 1/1000 refit. In the small refit I think it would work the best. Especially in the warp necells. The LED tape in the smaller refit loves to show hot spots. For the 350 depending on the density and how small in length I’m thing for the bridge flood lights. You thoughts?
Interesting, I haven't used it yet but can see it could be useful for certain lighting situations.
Great work as always Boyd! I was wondering how the officers lounge was going to be lit. Can you tell me if you removed any additional plastic from the inner support ring after all the side pieces were secured and puttied? That's what it looked like from what I could see.
Yes I initially had not cut out the plastic wide enough.
@@TrekWorks That's what it looked like when I was watching today (yesterday?) Makes sense though. With the side pieces already locked down and puttied, the openings could be widened without sacrificing structural integrity.
I am new to building and I am following your videos. I have a a few questions. Do you have a supply list? What glue are you using? I remember in that past some glue would destroy parts so I want to be careful. I also need a airbrush. Mine is from the 90's and it was junk then. What would you recommend? Any other parts I should order? I ordered all the 3d printed parts recommend by you from HDA .
There is a supply list of what I used here at the end of the video. I'm using CA glue to glue the LED tape and wiring in place along with the accelerator for it to make it dry quickly. For the model itself, any quality model glue suitable for styrene plastic will work. For clear parts, I use canopy glue. It won't melt or stain those. I recommend the Iwata eclipse airbrush for general airbrush painting and their HP series for fine detail work. I have both and with good maintenance they will last for years.
Boyd, I've got a problem. I don't own one of those machines to test power. How would I go about it with only 9v batteries?
I just got the mega board complete kit. They don't show where led or smd actually go. Is there a place to see led locations?
Again, so good to have this in detail from a master builder!
I have a question: sometimes when I have done lighting that includes navigation and strobe lighting I notice that when the strobes flash the other lights dim. Obviously I am not supplying enough power somewhere but I am using the correct voltage for both the board and the led strips (like you, I use 9V) and I almost always use pre-wired leds or smds which are rated for 9V usage. Do you have any suggestions for what I am doing wrong? Maybe you could address that in one of your future videos? Many thanks!
Your power supply isn’t regulated and that’s why the always-on lights dim when the nav/strobe lights flash. Get a good switching power supply and it keeps the supplied current steady.
It may be a lack of amperage issue. If not enough, the lights will dim when the additional load kicks in (the blinking). I suggest using a 2 amp power supply at minimum. Going too high won't hurt anything because the circuit will only draw what it needs. Too low and problems can occur.
@@TrekWorks Many thanks, I will check the amperage of the power supply
@@RossAWaddell Many thanks; I have been thinking of the voltage rather than the current so from what you and Boyd have said it looks like that is the problem.
Great job, Boyd. Would filling the holes with canopy glue or something to diffuse the light so they look more like windows instead of pin pricks of light work or would they be too dark?
Do you mean the window ports? If so, yes, I use canopy glue on those if they are small enough and it works great. It doesn't dry completely clear so it eliminates the sparkly light from the LED's. Also, the clear UV curing resin, Solarez, works excellent. That's probably what I'll use on the saucer edge windows here.
Have you ever considered silver paint - or even aluminum foil -as light blocking?
I wouldn't use foil because it is conductive and not a good idea around the electrics. Surprisingly, it adds a lot of weight too. I've found that white is the best for reflecting and not changing the color of the light. With silver, I noticed the light in the windows etc, would look either blueish or even green.
I’ve had good results using liquid flux on the led ribbons when soldering wires to it , also I try to keep my solder temps under 350. Do u run into any issues ever burning any of the ribbons or connectors on your boards ?
I'm using 60/40 rosin core solder on these thin wires so no flux is needed. I haven't had issues with burning anything as the very hot tip only takes a second to do the job and the heat doesn't get time to soak in.
What type of dupli color primer do you use? I'm following along your build for tips while building an original AMT TOS Enterprise. I eventually want to build a refit but it's a bit of a challenge right now.
I really need to get a bench power supply.
A little late but, you soldering iron is way too hot. The solder you are using has flux in it, when your iron is so hot it just boils off the flux and makes things harder to solder. 300c or 540f is plenty hot for that work. I will also melt the insulation and cause pullback. It also causes the tip to degrade much faster.
👍🏻