Whew! That's great work! I didn't realize how many lights there are in the saucer. I like how you used that piece of sprue to prop up those LEDs for the impulse engines.
Lol, yes simple sprue is useful in so many ways, even making gap filling glue out of it. And I'm afraid we're only about half way there with the lighting of the saucer. The bottom needs to be mirrored with the top. I'm glad I do actually enjoy soldering everything. As my videos show, I have a complex when thinking about connectors, as in avoid them at all cost's!
Awesome that your doing the impulse in amber and pointed out the detail in to officers lounge. I’ve been planing to go the same route in my model. Now when I film my build some are going to think I copied you.😮
Wonderful Boyd. I am concerned that you will not be using the very latest tech out there for Light order sequencing. At 4:57 you point out there are control boards out there to control the lights separately. Kinda bummed you've decided to not include them. The intro to the whole series included how you'd be working with the latest tech since it's been nearly a decade that you last worked on this awesome ship. So I'm relieved you're working with 3d printer sets for sure and perhaps other latest advances. Will you be lighting in prep for matching the STMP start up sequence?
Enjoying watching this series Boyd. You almost make me want to do a second one of these myself to fix the boo boos I did the first time around.....almost 😀
It was two coats of black. The first one making sure to get into all of the nooks & cranny's. The second for a good sealing backup coat. Then a light even coat of white.
Here is the list of what I used in this step and where: 4 X 5MM Yellow LED's Saucer Top Thruster Ports 2X 5mm Yellow LED's Impulse Engine Grills 6X 1/4 Watt 470 Ohm Resisters (One On Each Yellow LED) 3X 0805 White SMD's Saucer Top Nav Lights At Bow & Impulse Deck 1X Green 0805 SMD Starboard Saucer Top Nav Light 1X Red 0805 SMD Port Saucer Top Nav Light These are pre wired SMD's with resistors included.
Curious, why an SMD vs a 1.8 mm LED? I have LEDs ready to install but wondering if significant advantage to SMD? Also assuming you did same white, green and red SMDs on bottom saucer as well? Also, could you show how your parallel wiring loop connects to a single + and - for power, just for clarity? I think I get it but would like reassurance. Thanks again for the vids!!
@@GJ-st5hk I like using SMD's mainly because they are pre wired and easy to install. It also depends on the look of the lighting I'm going for. The SMD's are great for small pin points of light like the nav/strobe lights on a ship. Other times I need something brighter and wider like an LED. That was the case here where I used LED's for the thrusters because it has to light 6 points of light on the top, sides and bottom of the saucer for each thruster spot. The + & - main power wires for the saucer will come up through the neck and connect to the ends of the 2 loops I made in the saucer wiring. The power for the control board I'm putting in the saucer connects there as well.
I had noticed the impulse engines were more of a reddish orange once ILM took over. I wonder if they even used the built lighting system for the engines but instead imposed the color later in the process. Only in TMP did I ever see the engine outlets completly lit up, and very orange.
if I remember correctly. I read years ago when they made star trek 2 twok the impulse engine bulbs burned out. They replaced them with red bulbs ever since. You can still see the original glow in the movie but that was stock footage from the SMP. I'm glad he's staying with the amber orage, it looks much better, more hotter, powerful.
Boyd, on this ship and the 1:537, I’m worried about cutting out square shaped holes for thrusters. Both on the saucer and on the engineering section near the dish. Thoughts?
Yes, the saucer top has it's final hull paint. I will be buffing it out with some fine polishing compound until it has a satin sheen. Then the lacquer based iridescent colors.
Boyd, when I use the smd's and let's that don't have resistors, what kind, where, and which side do you connect them too? And dose each led or smart need one? I've tried this once before, and when I Che ked use with a 9v batteries, i blew all the smds. Help please. I need a course for dummies!
You should look at Trekworks how to light up a model. Its very informative and answers most of your questions. Ralph at Tenacontrols will also answer any questions about how to use his boards. Happy modeling!
I have a few questions: What board are you going to use? I would like to add the Photon Torpedo, Phaser and some sounds when the ship does different things. I was thinking of getting the BT-1701-RR by TENACONTROLS to control it with my tablet. What do you think?
I'll be using a combination of Tenacontrols boards, a couple which I already had. I have the small board for the strobe/nav lights and another for the shuttle bay floor sequencing lights. A third, custom board comes in for the other effects like the deflector, warp engines, photons etc. The video will explain it when I get that far. I haven't tried one of the Mega boards, I've heard good things about them working well.
The thruster lighting seems to change from scene to scene and movie to movie. Sometimes in flight they are not on at all. There are control boards that can add various effects to them.
Everybody takes a different approach to them. I have never noticed them change at all in the movies but a lot of cgi models used to recreate scenes from the movies do sometimes add effects to them. Some people have them switch off when in warp mode, the argument being that they would not be needed but in TMP they are on when the ship is in warp. So, as I say, different people take different approaches. In my 1/537 build I had 4 power modes 1 was internal lighting only, then 2 for thrusters mode (amber nav dish light) 3 was impulse mode (blue nav dish and impusle engines on) and 4 was warp mode (blue nav dish, impusle engines off, warp grills on) with the thruster lights being on and steady in modes 2, 3 & 4 because that it what seems to happen in TMP which is the one I was going for.
@@cwam1701e Yes, there are inconsistencies in the filming models and so recreating them gets interpreted in different ways. It gets worse with the later cgi versions. Wholesale lighting and even panel details change from scene to scene.
Do all these smd and led's have to have resistors attached , and what side on the smd and on the resistors itself connect? I'm scared to death of screwing this up again
Thanks, Boyd. You will be greatly missed, but your knowledge will live on.
Boyd great update on the lighting looks cool looking forward on the next update have a great day.
Great update. I'll be watching
These videos in which you explain your plan for the lights are really helpful, thanks!
I’m really enjoy watching this build and learn more what and how too do this kit😁👍
Whew! That's great work! I didn't realize how many lights there are in the saucer. I like how you used that piece of sprue to prop up those LEDs for the impulse engines.
Lol, yes simple sprue is useful in so many ways, even making gap filling glue out of it. And I'm afraid we're only about half way there with the lighting of the saucer. The bottom needs to be mirrored with the top. I'm glad I do actually enjoy soldering everything. As my videos show, I have a complex when thinking about connectors, as in avoid them at all cost's!
@@TrekWorks Haha! I respect how you work. I like the way you think when building these kits!
Thanks for sharing your tips and tricks for these ships. Your ships look amazing. I wish I could do a big 1/350 TOS ship and a refit as well. 👍🏽👍🏽
Great work on the saucer Boyd👍
Awesome that your doing the impulse in amber and pointed out the detail in to officers lounge. I’ve been planing to go the same route in my model. Now when I film my build some are going to think I copied you.😮
Yeah I always wanted this scale model of enterprise ship maybe one day I’ll get it
Looking good Boyd!!
Wonderful Boyd. I am concerned that you will not be using the very latest tech out there for Light order sequencing. At 4:57 you point out there are control boards out there to control the lights separately. Kinda bummed you've decided to not include them. The intro to the whole series included how you'd be working with the latest tech since it's been nearly a decade that you last worked on this awesome ship. So I'm relieved you're working with 3d printer sets for sure and perhaps other latest advances. Will you be lighting in prep for matching the STMP start up sequence?
Enjoying watching this series Boyd. You almost make me want to do a second one of these myself to fix the boo boos I did the first time around.....almost 😀
I know what you mean, there is always the one little thing that can be better. It's a big commitment to build one of these.
The light blocking turned out perfectly. How many coats of paint did it take to achieve that effect?
It was two coats of black. The first one making sure to get into all of the nooks & cranny's. The second for a good sealing backup coat. Then a light even coat of white.
Here is the list of what I used in this step and where:
4 X 5MM Yellow LED's Saucer Top Thruster Ports
2X 5mm Yellow LED's Impulse Engine Grills
6X 1/4 Watt 470 Ohm Resisters (One On Each Yellow LED)
3X 0805 White SMD's Saucer Top Nav Lights At Bow & Impulse Deck
1X Green 0805 SMD Starboard Saucer Top Nav Light
1X Red 0805 SMD Port Saucer Top Nav Light
These are pre wired SMD's with resistors included.
Curious, why an SMD vs a 1.8 mm LED? I have LEDs ready to install but wondering if significant advantage to SMD? Also assuming you did same white, green and red SMDs on bottom saucer as well? Also, could you show how your parallel wiring loop connects to a single + and - for power, just for clarity? I think I get it but would like reassurance. Thanks again for the vids!!
@@GJ-st5hk I like using SMD's mainly because they are pre wired and easy to install. It also depends on the look of the lighting I'm going for. The SMD's are great for small pin points of light like the nav/strobe lights on a ship. Other times I need something brighter and wider like an LED. That was the case here where I used LED's for the thrusters because it has to light 6 points of light on the top, sides and bottom of the saucer for each thruster spot. The + & - main power wires for the saucer will come up through the neck and connect to the ends of the 2 loops I made in the saucer wiring. The power for the control board I'm putting in the saucer connects there as well.
I had noticed the impulse engines were more of a reddish orange once ILM took over. I wonder if they even used the built lighting system for the engines but instead imposed the color later in the process. Only in TMP did I ever see the engine outlets completly lit up, and very orange.
if I remember correctly. I read years ago when they made star trek 2 twok the impulse engine bulbs burned out. They replaced them with red bulbs ever since. You can still see the original glow in the movie but that was stock footage from the SMP. I'm glad he's staying with the amber orage, it looks much better, more hotter, powerful.
Boyd, on this ship and the 1:537, I’m worried about cutting out square shaped holes for thrusters. Both on the saucer and on the engineering section near the dish. Thoughts?
There are super tiny micro files for that type of thing. Basically, drill an under size round hole and then work it open by hand with the micro file.
Great work, Boyd. So this is the final paint on the surface minus the Aztec painting? Otherwise how do you avoid painting over the nav/marker lights?
Yes, the saucer top has it's final hull paint. I will be buffing it out with some fine polishing compound until it has a satin sheen. Then the lacquer based iridescent colors.
@@TrekWorks Thanks! Do you have a Patreon?
Boyd, when I use the smd's and let's that don't have resistors, what kind, where, and which side do you connect them too? And dose each led or smart need one? I've tried this once before, and when I Che ked use with a 9v batteries, i blew all the smds. Help please. I need a course for dummies!
You should look at Trekworks how to light up a model. Its very informative and answers most of your questions. Ralph at Tenacontrols will also answer any questions about how to use his boards. Happy modeling!
👍
What are you going to power that up with?
What voltage battery can I check the lights without resistors attached before I install?
I have a few questions: What board are you going to use? I would like to add the Photon Torpedo, Phaser and some sounds when the ship does different things. I was thinking of getting the BT-1701-RR by TENACONTROLS to control it with my tablet. What do you think?
I'll be using a combination of Tenacontrols boards, a couple which I already had. I have the small board for the strobe/nav lights and another for the shuttle bay floor sequencing lights.
A third, custom board comes in for the other effects like the deflector, warp engines, photons etc. The video will explain it when I get that far. I haven't tried one of the Mega boards, I've heard good things about them working well.
@@TrekWorks please check out the Mega boards. I really want your opinion on them.
Boyd, I'm using the BIG Tenna control board. How would I wire these differently to make thrusters, and nav lights work correctly? Help!!
I thought the yellow RCS thruster lights slowly strobed during normal ship operations?
The thruster lighting seems to change from scene to scene and movie to movie. Sometimes in flight they are not on at all. There are control boards that can add various effects to them.
Everybody takes a different approach to them. I have never noticed them change at all in the movies but a lot of cgi models used to recreate scenes from the movies do sometimes add effects to them. Some people have them switch off when in warp mode, the argument being that they would not be needed but in TMP they are on when the ship is in warp. So, as I say, different people take different approaches. In my 1/537 build I had 4 power modes 1 was internal lighting only, then 2 for thrusters mode (amber nav dish light) 3 was impulse mode (blue nav dish and impusle engines on) and 4 was warp mode (blue nav dish, impusle engines off, warp grills on) with the thruster lights being on and steady in modes 2, 3 & 4 because that it what seems to happen in TMP which is the one I was going for.
@@cwam1701e Yes, there are inconsistencies in the filming models and so recreating them gets interpreted in different ways. It gets worse with the later cgi versions. Wholesale lighting and even panel details change from scene to scene.
Do all these smd and led's have to have resistors attached , and what side on the smd and on the resistors itself connect? I'm scared to death of screwing this up again
Do the NX-01 refit .
Where do I get the water based putty sir?
www.Hdamodelworx.com