for me it was the previous move, using the toehook to stabilize and cancel the off-the wall movement, while using it to rotate the hips perpendicular to prepare the balance for the foot cross move. that was quite a spectacular sequence. liked it very much:)
6:50, I had the same issue and now I only try hard to make any progress and let myself be surprised to send the top. One move at a time. first tries I never try too hard, it's more to feel it and to learn the route, as soon as I think I have a beta, I ramp up the effort, but no emotions. I keep them for the top. The real reward for me is how hard and clean I can do some moves, I don't care at all about tops. I love to crush the crux part with a good amount of whatever is needed, finesse, speed, power, what ever is needed with a good margin. In competition you must try hard from the start and value each try but in training it's better to concentrate on moves, efforts, and feeling, not the emotion feeling, climbing information feeling. I think that emotions can make you climbing feeling numb and interfere with the perf
I can feel this pain in your voice when your were stuck on that yellow big volume and you told "ok my hands are greasy now", like it's Joever , I can slip at any time and just bonk myself so hard lol this was 100% of my climbing session for so long until I started to dry my hands with antihydral based product from Rhinoskin. You might probably already know their products or even use them but if not, "Dry" spray is the strongest for the whole hands, depending on how you react but I do use it once or twice every 2 weeks during winter and more during summer cause my hands are drooling otherwise. And I apply a bit of "Performance" cream before each hard session. My skin is hella soft and sweaty so this is the only way I've found amongst many things to dry them and have a bit of calluses haha. These gyms have very interesting settings and being sandbagged as hell of slabs seems to be the same everywhere on Earth 😂
I think it’s important to make sure you don’t do too much of a hop! This way you don’t land downwards on the foothold and create to much of a shock load, which can make it hard to stabilize. Try more to just slide your bottom foot out 💪
4:20 Things I learned from this video: Zach's definition of 'looks really good' vastly differs from my own 😂
😂😂
19:39 Man! To read and execute this move on the first try is amazing 🙌
for me it was the previous move, using the toehook to stabilize and cancel the off-the wall movement, while using it to rotate the hips perpendicular to prepare the balance for the foot cross move. that was quite a spectacular sequence. liked it very much:)
The routesetters really cooked there. Awesome.
I think the setters forgot to attach the holds on the first route... 🤔
my thought when I walked into the gym a month ago looking at that v8...
Lover your vids, keep going!
6:50, I had the same issue and now I only try hard to make any progress and let myself be surprised to send the top. One move at a time. first tries I never try too hard, it's more to feel it and to learn the route, as soon as I think I have a beta, I ramp up the effort, but no emotions. I keep them for the top. The real reward for me is how hard and clean I can do some moves, I don't care at all about tops. I love to crush the crux part with a good amount of whatever is needed, finesse, speed, power, what ever is needed with a good margin. In competition you must try hard from the start and value each try but in training it's better to concentrate on moves, efforts, and feeling, not the emotion feeling, climbing information feeling. I think that emotions can make you climbing feeling numb and interfere with the perf
Looking good man
hi ! seems it's another day low on chalk :-(
Yes this was a part of that same session haha
I can feel this pain in your voice when your were stuck on that yellow big volume and you told "ok my hands are greasy now", like it's Joever , I can slip at any time and just bonk myself so hard lol
this was 100% of my climbing session for so long until I started to dry my hands with antihydral based product from Rhinoskin. You might probably already know their products or even use them but if not, "Dry" spray is the strongest for the whole hands, depending on how you react but I do use it once or twice every 2 weeks during winter and more during summer cause my hands are drooling otherwise. And I apply a bit of "Performance" cream before each hard session. My skin is hella soft and sweaty so this is the only way I've found amongst many things to dry them and have a bit of calluses haha.
These gyms have very interesting settings and being sandbagged as hell of slabs seems to be the same everywhere on Earth 😂
Yeah I might start trying more rhino products to be honest, I hear lots of good things!
how much chalk does gang need lmao
any tips on foot swapping on really bad holds like on that 2nd v7 slab?
I think it’s important to make sure you don’t do too much of a hop! This way you don’t land downwards on the foothold and create to much of a shock load, which can make it hard to stabilize. Try more to just slide your bottom foot out 💪
@@richardsonsclimbing I'll try and put this to practice. Thanks man!
fun thing about vullomes is that probably 1/10 people would climb it the same and the rest would have other beta
That haircut suits you very well. ^_^
first 😮