The Blue Glue from Bohning is designed for all carbon arrows. It is NOT designed for carbon arrows with aluminum on the inside like the Easton X10. Yet archers around the world still use it on aluminum shafts and aluminum interior walled shafts.
I just ordered some hot melt and was going to start messing with it and I chose the blue glue and was kinda disappointed until I seen you said this. I’m using Easton axis so there not aluminum on the inside. But I do what to experiment and take them out anyways kinda why I’m messing with the hot melt. When it’s all said and done I’ll prob epoxy my final hunting arrow
@@timberlandone4054 trust me I’ve made a bunch of arrows. And use hot melt if you want to tinker with weight. But if you are sure about the weight you want I would say epoxy your hunting arrows if you want.
Did not mention Bohning Yellow. Bohning Blue for carbon arrows therefore lower heat and probably lower strength. Bohning Yellow, for everything else and stronger. Would advise including Bohning Yellow and ditching one of the other off/non archery brands. I've got the sneaking suspicion that the Easton Yellow might be Bohning Yellow in disguise.
you really need to put some in the arrow. the tight tolerance between shaft of point pushes the glue out. learned that years ago when running a shop in the 80's the no. 4 was my guess as best glue.
I should probably use a good hot melt, but instead I've been running an automotive impact resistance adhesive. Only thing that has come loose are Gold Tip points, and that's because GT is notorious for tolerances. They like really small internal components, creating way too big of a gap.
The guy at my archery shop recommended gorilla glue got melt sticks from Walmart, cheap and very strong. I’ll be trying it out soon Results: works badass. Haven’t had any issues with inserts falling out. Was also able to re heat and index Broadheads easily and have had no issues!
Good information and decent test, but I think you should focus more on presentation like adding charts or graphs, it will be more helpful. Try to learn from channels like fam project, which have great presentation and straight forward. With it, i think you will have more subscribers, keep up the good work
Pardon the pun, what’s the point? Any glue only needs to be stronger then the friction generated by removing the arrow, for the point to remain in the shaft. an arrow maybe shoot into a target at 45 pounds, it’s not 45 lbs to removing the arrow. It’s friction on the point and arrow that a glue would have to over come. If it’s solely a test of the glue use a gauge and a winch to pull them apart and see where it fails.
@@atxjaphotos4217 yeah I know what the point of glue is... did you read the full comment? and most people I know that use broadheads use screw in points so they can change from a field point for practice and broadhead for hunting.
The Blue Bohning was STUPID to test on a X10...The Blue Bohning is SPECIFICALLY formulated for ALL CARBON shafts...and YOU stuck it IN an aluminum ID shaft.....
The Blue Glue from Bohning is designed for all carbon arrows. It is NOT designed for carbon arrows with aluminum on the inside like the Easton X10. Yet archers around the world still use it on aluminum shafts and aluminum interior walled shafts.
I was about to say the same thing
I just ordered some hot melt and was going to start messing with it and I chose the blue glue and was kinda disappointed until I seen you said this. I’m using Easton axis so there not aluminum on the inside. But I do what to experiment and take them out anyways kinda why I’m messing with the hot melt. When it’s all said and done I’ll prob epoxy my final hunting arrow
@@timberlandone4054 trust me I’ve made a bunch of arrows. And use hot melt if you want to tinker with weight. But if you are sure about the weight you want I would say epoxy your hunting arrows if you want.
😎
Did not mention Bohning Yellow. Bohning Blue for carbon arrows therefore lower heat and probably lower strength. Bohning Yellow, for everything else and stronger. Would advise including Bohning Yellow and ditching one of the other off/non archery brands. I've got the sneaking suspicion that the Easton Yellow might be Bohning Yellow in disguise.
This is still maybe my favorite video from you.
you really need to put some in the arrow. the tight tolerance between shaft of point pushes the glue out. learned that years ago when running a shop in the 80's the no. 4 was my guess as best glue.
I should probably use a good hot melt, but instead I've been running an automotive impact resistance adhesive. Only thing that has come loose are Gold Tip points, and that's because GT is notorious for tolerances. They like really small internal components, creating way too big of a gap.
I have been using Gorilla glue for years, no need to heat up and it's an armored collage that has never budged
Your the 2nd person to tell me about this. What type of Gorilla Glue?
The whole point of hot melt is to be able to take them out, but yes gorilla glue epoxy and they will never come out
The guy at my archery shop recommended gorilla glue got melt sticks from Walmart, cheap and very strong. I’ll be trying it out soon
Results: works badass. Haven’t had any issues with inserts falling out. Was also able to re heat and index Broadheads easily and have had no issues!
· Ima gunna git me
some o' that CDM low-melt stuff
100% 👍👍
THANK YOU for doing this so I don't ...
Good information and decent test, but I think you should focus more on presentation like adding charts or graphs, it will be more helpful. Try to learn from channels like fam project, which have great presentation and straight forward. With it, i think you will have more subscribers, keep up the good work
Has anyone tested Stanley Dual Melt for securing arrow points?
Thx for comparison! But plz - do something with video focus =(
Best I can afford at the moment sorry😞 After 1k videos the camera is getting old
· I'm 100% SOLD on
Bohning Blue low-melt glue for
PIN NOCK ADAPTORS !!!!!! 👍👍
... that is ... as a consequence
of YOUR testing ! TY 😇👍
Especially since I already own
the Bohning Ferr-L-Tite BLUE
Pardon the pun, what’s the point?
Any glue only needs to be stronger then the friction generated by removing the arrow, for the point to remain in the shaft.
an arrow maybe shoot into a target at 45 pounds, it’s not 45 lbs to removing the arrow.
It’s friction on the point and arrow that a glue would have to over come.
If it’s solely a test of the glue use a gauge and a winch to pull them apart and see where it fails.
Adjusting an arrow for a new broadhead is important to people who don't want to buy brand new arrow shafts.
@@atxjaphotos4217 yeah I know what the point of glue is... did you read the full comment?
and most people I know that use broadheads use screw in points so they can change from a field point for practice and broadhead for hunting.
😂 😜 😁
The Blue Bohning was STUPID to test on a X10...The Blue Bohning is SPECIFICALLY formulated for ALL CARBON shafts...and YOU stuck it IN an aluminum ID shaft.....
I know of several top archers in the USA and internationally that use it for their Easton X10s.
Stop waffling and get on with it!
What a waste of time! So much waffling! Not interested watching anymore! I'm out!
Dude, the constantly changing focus on the intro gave me a headache