Two years I’ve been fighting with my saw. Having to stop every cut to check chain was driving me crazy.Stihl rep couldn’t figure it out. Place where I bought it sold me new bar and chains. This is a great video!!!!
Thanks for the information. Mine just started. I'll look for those bumpers and problems with my chain. My saw threw the chain twice today, once hitting me on the bone of the ankle. Didn't cut but the force had me limping for a couple of hours.
Thanks for the comment! I replaced the built in chain tensioner system with a traditional one a few years back because it didn't work very well. i required replacing sprocket cover as part of the job and you sacrifice the chain catcher in the process. In practice, they don't real do much it's not a user safety feature, it just stops the chain damaging the underside of the saw - however, I've snapped a million chains, they just drop off unceremoniously.
Hi. Thanks for the comment. Perhaps the worm screw on the tensioner has worn out? That can happen. Not sure what you mean by the drum? Do you mean the sprocket which drives the chain - if so, the needle bearing on which it rests can wear out making it unstable - perhaps try replacing the bearing. I have a video of a chainsaw deep clean - try following that to see how it all fits together. Best of luck!
Replace the open drive sprocket with a closed (rimmed) sprocket which is the standard type on the pro saws. That's the real fix. New plastic guides don't hurt but will NOT fix chain throwing with longer bars. BTDT.
The stretch is actually the chain link holes get worn from overheating and a lack of oil. Also, after each use at the end of the day, loosen the tension, to help prevent the hole and pins fron holding pressure on them and slow the " holes from wollering out. I found all these clues from other people, so don't think I am an expert. Just sharing the knowledge I have been shown. Remember if this sounds odd, but having 70 and more links in a chain, and getting each hole say 1/16" each of hole wear, then add that up and you understand how the chain will be longer overall when installed and pulled to length. Just a litte simple math. Be safe out there and enjoy the great outdoors !
OK🤔 now heading out to the shed to make sure that piece is not missing on my brand new 461 sthil saw that threw the chain as this is my 3 new saw starting from 40 years ago and have only had a chain fall off maybe 2 times i was concerned . given the service/ sales tech had started and ran the saw when i purchased it and then i had them take the bar and chain off to transport it in a tote they had somehow swapped the bar and had placed the wrong bar on the table with the chain which when i went home and was installing and tensioning it i noticed the chain would not fit into the nose sprocket but rode only half way so i had to go back to the store and get that corrected. well now off to the shed to check if the little plastic piece is there or is it missing 😕
My chain cannot be tightened to remove enough slack to be used. I have the bar tightening screw fully forward, but it's still too slack. I can only think my drive sprocket has worn beyond use. I wish it was just the lost bumper. Any suggestions?
It may be a worn bar, worn nose sprocketorn wogn bar guide rails or chain wear. The drive links can wear and the pins loosen. Sprocket wear has to be really really bad to cause that. I have another video called the hidden chain saw killer which explains it. It could be the wrong size part too; or a chain with an extra link which can happen in error.
@JamesTheForester thank you. As I may have mentioned, my neighbor buddy was moving to NC so he put 2 of these out on the curb. I was going to take them both but was walking a dog and couldn't wrangle carrying two and manage the Dane. He mentioned the one I took may have needed a new drive sproket or clutch. I have to clean the oil siphon tube (I have a new gasket kit) so when I take'er apart, I will more closely review the bar and driver gear. I've used it over the past two years but noticed it getting just too sloppy for safety... I guess it's time to bench test the lil workhorse. I have to fix the on/off kill switch (or replace it with a toggle). I'd like to get a Pico bar and use it for chainsaw art detail. My Echo Tmbrewolf with a 28" bar and proper chain and a slab jig has help slab a huge sycamore in 8, 10 & 12' X 24" slabs I've been euro drying for 3 years now... ready to make some table tops! But it's nice to have that little stihl for yard work along the Tully River
Seems very few people know how to put a bar and chain on. You're not one of them. Lol Hopefully since you've released this video you've educated yourself a little better on how to put a bar and chain on. Those nylon guides aren't holding your chain on. It's coming off because you're clearly not putting it on right and Youre clearly not tensioning the chain correctly. Ask an expert to show you or simply read the manual. The info is out there.
And yet a) it isn't mentioned in the owners manual at all, but b) it is listed as having precisely that function in both the parts and workshop manuals ( the latter of which I doubt you have access to) and c) Stihl Germany literally made their own video illustrating exactly the same point ... but thanks for 'educating' me, and for the comment- every comment drives more users to my channel. 👍
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Two years I’ve been fighting with my saw. Having to stop every cut to check chain was driving me crazy.Stihl rep couldn’t figure it out. Place where I bought it sold me new bar and chains. This is a great video!!!!
😊
I always hold the tip of the bar up and then finish tightening the two nuts.
Thanks for the information. Mine just started. I'll look for those bumpers and problems with my chain. My saw threw the chain twice today, once hitting me on the bone of the ankle. Didn't cut but the force had me limping for a couple of hours.
You're welcome 😊
Good find! Where's your chain catcher? Is it built into the sprocket cover and plastic?
Thanks for the comment! I replaced the built in chain tensioner system with a traditional one a few years back because it didn't work very well. i required replacing sprocket cover as part of the job and you sacrifice the chain catcher in the process. In practice, they don't real do much it's not a user safety feature, it just stops the chain damaging the underside of the saw - however, I've snapped a million chains, they just drop off unceremoniously.
This solved a problem with my saw that had been vexing me for 2 years, thanks!
Thank you for the kind words. Glad it helped you. 🙂
My ms291 chainsaw keep loosing up my chain plus the drum keep working a bad groove in my oil pump any suggestions
Hi. Thanks for the comment. Perhaps the worm screw on the tensioner has worn out? That can happen. Not sure what you mean by the drum? Do you mean the sprocket which drives the chain - if so, the needle bearing on which it rests can wear out making it unstable - perhaps try replacing the bearing. I have a video of a chainsaw deep clean - try following that to see how it all fits together. Best of luck!
@@JamesTheForester thanks ..I replace the worm gear, needle bearing and sprocket drum so it's better now
Excellent - well done - glad it helped!
Thank you! I sent mine to the shop 3 times and they never found the problem.
Good to hear! Glad it helped. These small parts are so easily missed. 🙂
Thank you! We are having the same problem in Sadieville, KY, USA.
Glad it helped!
Replace the open drive sprocket with a closed (rimmed) sprocket which is the standard type on the pro saws. That's the real fix. New plastic guides don't hurt but will NOT fix chain throwing with longer bars. BTDT.
This actually helped me out A LOT!!! Thanks for making this video😊
Glad it helped! Thanks for the kind words 🙏
The stretch is actually the chain link holes get worn from overheating and a lack of oil. Also, after each use at the end of the day, loosen the tension, to help prevent the hole and pins fron holding pressure on them and slow the " holes from wollering out. I found all these clues from other people, so don't think I am an expert. Just sharing the knowledge I have been shown. Remember if this sounds odd, but having 70 and more links in a chain, and getting each hole say 1/16" each of hole wear, then add that up and you understand how the chain will be longer overall when installed and pulled to length. Just a litte simple math. Be safe out there and enjoy the great outdoors !
OK🤔 now heading out to the shed to make sure that piece is not missing on my brand new 461 sthil saw that threw the chain as this is my 3 new saw starting from 40 years ago and have only had a chain fall off maybe 2 times i was concerned . given the service/ sales tech had started and ran the saw when i purchased it and then i had them take the bar and chain off to transport it in a tote they had somehow swapped the bar and had placed the wrong bar on the table with the chain which when i went home and was installing and tensioning it i noticed the chain would not fit into the nose sprocket but rode only half way so i had to go back to the store and get that corrected. well now off to the shed to check if the little plastic piece is there or is it missing 😕
Hope that solves your problem. Simple fix if so. Good luck!
4:59 -- This video was very interesting to me because my chainsaw has the same problem.
My chain cannot be tightened to remove enough slack to be used. I have the bar tightening screw fully forward, but it's still too slack. I can only think my drive sprocket has worn beyond use. I wish it was just the lost bumper. Any suggestions?
It may be a worn bar, worn nose sprocketorn wogn bar guide rails or chain wear. The drive links can wear and the pins loosen. Sprocket wear has to be really really bad to cause that. I have another video called the hidden chain saw killer which explains it. It could be the wrong size part too; or a chain with an extra link which can happen in error.
@JamesTheForester thank you. As I may have mentioned, my neighbor buddy was moving to NC so he put 2 of these out on the curb. I was going to take them both but was walking a dog and couldn't wrangle carrying two and manage the Dane. He mentioned the one I took may have needed a new drive sproket or clutch. I have to clean the oil siphon tube (I have a new gasket kit) so when I take'er apart, I will more closely review the bar and driver gear. I've used it over the past two years but noticed it getting just too sloppy for safety... I guess it's time to bench test the lil workhorse. I have to fix the on/off kill switch (or replace it with a toggle). I'd like to get a Pico bar and use it for chainsaw art detail. My Echo Tmbrewolf with a 28" bar and proper chain and a slab jig has help slab a huge sycamore in 8, 10 & 12' X 24" slabs I've been euro drying for 3 years now... ready to make some table tops! But it's nice to have that little stihl for yard work along the Tully River
Very best of luck!
Thank You for information and advice, everyone needs to know this 😊
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks
No problem🙂
Seems very few people know how to put a bar and chain on. You're not one of them. Lol Hopefully since you've released this video you've educated yourself a little better on how to put a bar and chain on. Those nylon guides aren't holding your chain on. It's coming off because you're clearly not putting it on right and Youre clearly not tensioning the chain correctly. Ask an expert to show you or simply read the manual. The info is out there.
And yet a) it isn't mentioned in the owners manual at all, but b) it is listed as having precisely that function in both the parts and workshop manuals ( the latter of which I doubt you have access to) and c) Stihl Germany literally made their own video illustrating exactly the same point ... but thanks for 'educating' me, and for the comment- every comment drives more users to my channel. 👍
Thanks
No problem!