Homemade Surface Grinder Attachment - Want Flat Things?
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- Опубликовано: 6 сен 2024
- This video outlines everything you need to know in order to build your own surface grinding attachment for your 2x72 belt grinder. A surface grinder is a really nice item to have in your shop, however, to buy a stand alone unit you'll be out some serious cash! Travis Wuertz invented this type of design and many in the blade making community have made their own renditions. For around 450-500 dollars you can build your own SGA!
Blade Forums SGA Thread - www.bladeforum...
Assembly Drawing PDF - www.dropbox.co...
Table Hole Guide PDF - www.dropbox.co...
✅Parts List (Cheapest / Imported):
200mmx75mm wheel (ask for max hardness) - www.aliexpress...
SGR20 Rail 600mm - www.aliexpress...
Table PT-SD102P - www.aliexpress...
Magnets - amzn.to/2vecqh2
3/8-16 Handles - amzn.to/2H78AZQ
1.5'' x 1.5'' x 48'' (tooling arm) - www.onlinemeta...
1'' x 2.5'' x 24'' (chuck) - www.onlinemeta...
0.625'' x 1.5'' x 24'' - www.onlinemeta...
0.5'' x 2'' x 24'' - www.onlinemeta...
Mill Board Fixer - Pete Brush - olduhfguy@gmail.com - www.olduhfguy.com - 207-370-5890
✅Domestic Alternatives:
SGR20 Rail 600mm - amzn.to/2SaLnMQ
Table PT-SD102P - amzn.to/2Ux4bHD
✅Other Items and Tools:
Sieg X2D Mini Mill - amzn.to/2UD8eSS
Micrometer - amzn.to/2UCDGR8
IRWIN Tap and Die Set - amzn.to/2LOnBn0
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The information provided on this channel is for entertainment purposes only. Any action you as the viewer takes upon the information on this channel is strictly at your own risk, and I will not be liable for any losses, damages, or personal injuries in connection with the use of this content (including injuries, damages, or losses sustained while you were trying to emulate the actions and projects on this channel). Attempting to emulate any of the actions or projects put forth by this channel should not be done without training and even then, at your own risk.
I have been a machinist for 45 years now. With these light duty machines you did a great job on the build and trouble shooting my friend.
Thank you for your kind words sir! I know it must have been slightly painful to watch me mill with so little experience. It was a learning endeavor for me!
@@RedBeardOps If you are living life right you will learn something new every day my friend.
For future match drilling projects you might want to invest in a set of transfer punches. They will match up to your hole diameters/ centers and center punch in one operation.
100% agree! I need a set bad! Thank you for your comment sir! Hope you enjoyed the build.
For something totally different and with much smaller magnets I glued down every second of them, and when they cured glued down the remaining ones, was much easier, might work for this setup too
Hey Dennis! That's an excellent idea, and would of worked way better!
i've been meaning to update this video on how i made out (comment below). the flute idea did not work. nearly immediately chipped the cutting edge of the end mill using a drill press. ending up making the slots with 2 million evo chop saw cuts.
that said though, i just posted the same to jeremy but my belt grinder was built using his (Jer Schmidt) plans. i was able to get the whole thing to work by putting the surface grinder in the left-side (table-side), rotated the right-side to be in horizontal mode with the platten attachment in (it acts as a spacer for the belt and the bigger 3" wheel). All i needed to work out was the spacer below the 3" wheel so that it aligns with the belt in horizontal mode but it works excellently!
Glad this popped up. I've seen one on Alec Steele's channel and thought about making one for the end of my bench linisher. Thanks for sharing
Awesome sir! Really glad you enjoyed the video. I've loved mine so far. My best results have been around 0.0011" total variance over a 7.5'' long piece... which is good enough for what I do!
If you would like to build one of these but have no milling machine, you don't really need one. Use a thinner base, then use lengths of bar the same height or slightly less than your magnets screwed to your base alternating with magnets glued in place. Like a piano keyboard keys. A long backing strip screwed to the back edge will help keep them in line.
Good idea Tim
SHAREING KNOWLEDGE ,,THATS WHAT THE INTERNET WAS DESIGNED FOR AND ITS GREAT
Cheers man, glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching!
I don't need to comment on the areas that you are weak in, you seem to be pretty self aware so in time you will likely improve on your own but I will say this, You are well spoken, the video was well shot and the project was documented wonderfully. I think you are going places.
Thank you sir! Glad you enjoyed it.
Excellent video , thanks for explaining it all so well. Good sound quality and no annoying music 10/10
Thanks Simon!
Others have mentioned WD on aluminum. Cheap, but works. Those are chatter marks, somethings moving. Anytime you see that, reevaluate your speeds and feeds(slow down), and check your rigidity. Magnet tip, steel flat stock behind the aluminum will force the magnet to self level and stay home while placing multiples.
Thanks for the tips!
Man you just became my new favorite you tuber.. the way you explain in detail your work is top notch.. I dont see how you dont have 1mil followers. I will definitely share your vids and recommend you.. keep the great videos coming thanks again and God bless you and your family
Hey man I really appreciate that! I'll to my best. Thank you very much for your comment!
Nice Idea, I worry about some of you health and safety, well done on the video.couple of points, when using any machine, use hearing protection, when grinding use a N94 dust mask. (Yes I have a beard as well, but I keep mine short) when working, clamp the job, keep your hand away from the tool, keep the blade covered on the band saw. Clean up after the cut, hold the job or clamp, fix the vac so you can hold the job..... use some vice grips to hold the screw when you use the band saw. I have learnt this all the hard way.....great project hope you have many happy hours and make some great things, once again thanks for taking 5he time to make this video
Have a great weekend sir!
This was a great build. As always, you did a outstanding job with your attention to detail and showing and explaining each step. I built the electro etch box you shared. But I think this is above my skill and patience level. Maybe I will give it a try.
Your flags look good. Thank you.
Cheers sir! Thanks for watching as always. Glad you're getting something out of it!
Instablaster.
I just started building my surface grinder attachment, and just completed the magnetic chuck. I found it fairly easy to get the magnets in by using super glue. Just took a couple small tubes. Only have to hold down the magnet for 10-15 seconds, and then you don't have to worry about holding it down while putting in its neighbor.
Glad that worked for you Kyle! Cheers sir!
@@RedBeardOps I might add, I poured epoxy resin over the top to fill in the slots. Just put the super glue down first to hold them in place.
I appreciate your complete description of the project. Good job.
Hey Bruce! Thanks for the comment. I'm happy you enjoyed it!
A handy tip when cleaning sawn bolts grind to the end by holding it downwards that will reduce burrs clogging the thread.
Thanks for the tip Jos!
I'm so glad you posted this! I have been brainstorming ideas for my recently built 2x72. Beautifully done sir.
Thank you sir! Glad you're going to get some use out of it!
You have a pretty solid grasp on imperial and metric measurements mate it takes a minute to work out sizes when you switch between them haha great work mate thanks for a great video from Launceston, Tasmania
Glad you enjoyed the build! Cheers!
A great upgrade would be to fill the magnet slots with resin to make clearing the swarf off easier.
That's an interesting idea! Thank you
I was thinking when the magnetic table was being used at the video end that after a short amount of time there will be a ton of grinding waste in the magnet grooves. This seems to be a good solution. And I learned a new word: swarf.
@@oddjobbobb As a side note; wiping it off has been pretty easy. Also if it really bothers you, you could lay down a strip of tape to peal off after use. Cheers guys!
If done it should be with a high temp resin as I imagine the blade could get a little hot.
"Swarf" Yes, keep it out of your beard ; )
Impressive surface grinder build and it looks good with that Kadrmas grinder.
Zachary Schroeder thank you sir! Can’t wait to put this thing through its paces! 🙌
Wow. What a nice project! I appreciate all of the research and detail. A mister would be a nice addition to help keep the heat and warpage down.
Not a bad idea for sure. I generally take pretty soft passes so the piece doesn't get too hot.
1000% badass my man. I’ve been wanting to make some sort of a surface grinder for years. This looks killer. Nice work as usual 👍👍
Hey man thanks a million! It's cool for sure. Took me a while to get done. I can't wait to put it though it's paces!
Cool built, I like the idea, not as precise as a full surface grinder, but I expect it's plenty good for what it's meant for. Couple of thoughts while watching, if those locking levers are used enough you might end up with the threads wearing out in the aluminum, if so a thread insert (a Heli-coil for example) would be a perfect fix. Interestingly aluminum can be cut with woodworking tools, if I had the choice I would have cut the slots for the magnets on a table saw, not always an option (gotta have easy access to a table saw...) but it opens up possibilities. You may know this already but those screws are generally hard(ish) so they tend to wear the blade on a band saw quickly, especially if the blade is new. As a machinist, I feel you on the milling for the first time, it's a totally new game, wildly different rules, so no harsh judgements here. Great build, I look forward to hearing your thoughts and experiences as you use it more
Hey yeah Curtis, for what we "full tang knife makers" do it's more than adequate. For sure not a replacement for a legit surface grinder. Very good points in your comment. The table saw would of been way faster I bet. A lot of machinist have commented on this video in what I'd consider a mildly-hostile way; so I really appreciate your approach. So much to learn on my end! Cheers sir, have a great weekend!
I laughed a bit... "...is about 600 mm long, and about 2 and a quarter wide"
Nice job satisfying both sides of the old Metric vs Imperial camps :D
Definitely a sub from me.
Thanks man, I try to keep everyone as confused as possible! ;)
So that’s 2ft x 60mm.
M6 is near enough 1/4 Whitworth. M8 is 5/16 and M10 is 3/8.
Great idea. Mod the grinder to go horizontal on a pivot and it'll be a lot easier to use.
Agreed! Thanks for watching sir!
Very Nice Job, appreciate the info on others builds and forum threads as well.
Thanks sir! The thread was instrumental to me completing this project! Very helpful community over that at bladefourms. Thanks for watching!
When I cut aluminum stock I just use my wood 12" shop saw with a carbide tip blade, obviously take it slow but its faster than a band saw. Maybe this helps maybe I'm a idiot but been doing it for yrs. Also just a idea but you might be able to use a spring to help counterbalance the weight maybe even mill a slot to hide the spring if theres room in the aluminum stock.
Good tips sir! And good idea with the spring! Have a great weekend!
protip: when installing magnets, don't try to do them all at once. install in an alternating pattern and let epoxy completely set...
A very, very good tip right there!
@@RedBeardOps You actually want the magnetic N/S fields to be rotated CW 90º such that they form a Halbach array. This arranges the magnetic fields to one side of the faces increasing their strength in one direction, exactly like fridge magnets work.
We have a machine shop at work and this will definitely be my new project for my 2x72
Awesome sir! Thank you for watching. Glad you liked it.
I have been wondering about getting a mill for flattening out surfaces on forged pieces. Since you already have a mill, do you find the surface grinder attachment better for this type of use? Faster/cheaper/easier/other reasons?
Good question Joe. Yes the Surface grinder with belts will be much faster. Clamping forged pieces on the mill can be difficult as well. I do use the mill with a router bit to flatten handle scales and blocks though.
Idk id suggest a mill, its just more versatile
I use my surface grinder attachment on forged pieces as well especially since I do a lot of salvaged metal knives and swords. You can never be 100 percent sure how hard the metal is after forging. Some metal air hardens quickly. Even a draft from one side can make piece hard enough to waste a 50 dollar bit by hitting just one little area that got hard. I also agree with the clamping issue. It's sometimes hard to find a reference plane to start with on something that may or may not have warped as it cooled. A mill is still an indispensable tool where exacting tolerances are required however forging is not an exact science.🤔
Just a little saftey tip, your saw will cut meat and bone real fast! Use some vise grips to hold those little screws and parts. Ask me how I know!
I love the way you approach your projects! Be careful as you go on your journey. Thanks for doing what you do.
I built a DIY belt grinder, here in Ireland 2" x 72" is not very common but I was easily able to buy 75mm x 2000mm belts which are roughly 3" x 78.75". If you could obtain those belts you might be able to run them on your machine with the contact wheel moved out a bit more to take up the extra belt length. It would save you having to order custom made belts.
Good idea sir! The 3x79 belts are a common size here and have been working fairly well. Cheers man!
I'm struggling to fathom how you can possibly demonstrate flatness using a single thickness measurement.
Well, I hadn't had much time to mess around with the machine at that point and didn't have a mic. So far I've been able to achieve a 0.0011'' total variance over a 7.5'' piece with about 6 measurements. I know it's not perfect but for a knife maker is good enough! Cheers man. Thanks for watching.
you cant really. flat is a reference to a plane. normally you would measure this against a reference surface. most times you would rub a surface against a reference to pick up ink and then sweep the low spots with a test indicator to understand the deviation, you can also raise the part off a surface plate and level the surface being measured and then sweep it with a a test indicator. whats actually being measured here is parallelism.
@@salvadorebertolone I think I've seen that before. The process is called "scrapping" right? They get stuff extremely flat!
@@RedBeardOps yea, but they usually aren't taking measurements during scraping, often they are just knocking down the ink until the have a certain density of spots. You can do the same on a grinder, it will be very good at making something parallel, but it will often pull a part flat on the magnets, to where it's parallel but isn't flat, with some practice at grinding and after you've flung a few parts off the magnet, you'll learn how to grind with just the residual magnetism or how to shim the part so its pretty flat
@@salvadorebertolone I have for sure noticed this. I've been messing around with shimming my parts if they have a warp out of the heat treat. It seems though that getting my warps out in tempering before heading to the SGA is the best place for it, since the shimming seems to be a tedious process. In the realm of fixed blade knife making the results on this machine are excellent and far more preferential than the old "sand paper on a piece of granite" game. LOL. Thanks for your comments.
maybe mentioned below but get yourself a set of transfer punches. Theyre cheap and you'll find a use for them in all types of jobs from fabricating to quickly transferring pin holes on scales.
Great build!
Very good idea! I saw someone using those not too long ago and was like "gosh damn... i need those... " - Thanks for your comment! Have a good one
@@RedBeardOps just don't go use your most used one upside down by accident like I did 🤔
@@mrstephenporter Lol! I'll do my best! No promises...
I read your name as “ red bear dops “ 😂 then I was like...oh...I’m dumb
That would be a good name though!
In the end of a tap is a centre hole where you can locate a centre in a chuck to tap , just apply slight pressure as you tap, especially good in lathes. Grinding a point on a bar will do the job. Also, not and end mill, a slot drill, the clue is in the name ;) Magnets, start at opposite ends then they can't attract each other. A carbide blade, the right size will cut those slots in a radial arm saw too, if you take it easy and lubricate it. Maybe bolt a dial test indicator to measure cut depth on the finished otem? Nice result :)
Thanks for the tips Tim!
Combat Abrasives will make custom sized belts
Thank you sir, I'm in contact with them! Seems like good people.
@@RedBeardOps You can easily rip down a 4x72 belt. Not sure if it's cheaper or not but...
@@Steve_Just_Steve Thanks for the idea! I was able to find some though Combat Abrasives that should get the job done though.
Surface grinder ,I do like it if you can make a small three roller grinder for paint .They use it for lipsticks and nail polish. It is a good idea because I like airbrush and mixing the paint is the only choice to make .I did see wallpaper rollers that I will try to make that.
Who else loves to have FLAT things?😂 ---- UPDATE VIDEOS ----->> 1.) SGA Updates June 2020 - ruclips.net/video/SpHP38nV3uU/видео.html 2.) Magnetic Chuck Upgrade - ruclips.net/video/_PYztWN2BiA/видео.html
You must have taken industrial arts classes in your youth. A junior Professor :D
@@Preacher195020002000 Lol, nope! My dad was a mechanic and small business owner, so I had a lot of freedom in regards to building things. Making these videos has been great for me since I have to organize my thoughts on the project at hand. Always ends up me with me learning more about the topic. Thanks for watching! 🙌
@@RedBeardOps Actually your dad and I are old friends Jimmy. We rode and partied together many moons ago. He turned me on to your videos a while back. I really enjoy watching your skills and neatness in your work. Wish I had known that you needed a micrometer I could have sent you a whole extra set that I'll probably never need/use again.
@@Preacher195020002000 Hey that's awesome! Cool deal. I'm glad you're enjoying them! I'm having a good time making them all. On the micrometer front I now have one. I'm achieving ~0.0011'' variance across a 7.5'' piece which feels pretty good for what I'm doing!
Okay so props to you for coming up with that, however I just recently purchased a Boyer Schultz surface grinder for 300 bucks and it's accurate to within 1/10000's of an inch, just saying. But still cool and props to you
Dear Sir, if you use Windex as your lubricant, you won’t get binding to your cutting tools and end up with much cleaner cuts. Nice build by the way. Cheers.
Thanks for the tip!
.001 is good enough for pretty much any knife work when you start getting into tenths you are getting into Aerospace industry. I don't think you will be flying your knives.
Lol, no sir! Won't be putting them in the air
@@RedBeardOps I know mounting it vertically makes the thickness adjustment easier but to take it easy on your arm having to move the table I would have considered angling the chuck a bit so less of the weight was totally resting on you. Just at first looks without working it out angling it underneath (but not totally horizontal) with the depth adjustment would work. You would just have to add another arm. I wish I could draw it for you.
@@RedBeardOps Also I wouldn't bother with the 3 inch belt you might consider adding another screw to cover the Y axis if you change the angel when you build the extension arm you can build in a y axis adjustment. Just a thought. I think it would maintain a greater degree of accuracy.
@@adude7050 Thanks for the ideas man. Yeah I ended up getting the 3'' belts and they work ok. In the future I plan on having the ability to rotate the whole grinder horizontal. That will make it nicer to use, but in reality it isn't that bad to use in this orientation. You can see me using it in both of my last two knife build videos. Nothing to it! Thanks for watching sir!
To save your drill bit, slow down the RPM and as long as the chips are evacuating, stop pecking. The initial engagement of material is what dulls the bit. The onyt reason for peeking is to evacuate chips unless your using coolant which will help to keep heat out of the cutting edges. You should also be conventional milling and not climb milling. You will get a better surface finish since your axis are not rigid
Thanks for the tips James. Have a great week!
My head hurts when you mix inches and metres
Sorry that bothers you, sir. Figured I'd make you work for it. ;)
You could maybe attach some kind of counterweight to the part that moves up and down and make it much lighter to operate.
Since that setup is stationary, you could attach the platen to a cable that goes through a pulley on the ceiling and has a counterweight on the other end.
It really baffles me that the imperial measurement is still being used.
Lol, sorry sir. Grew up with them.
Happy Gilmore I'm English, and grew up with Imperial measurement, then after leaving school they changed to metric, although in my working environment it was still Imperial, then I became a teacher and had to learn to use the metric system all the time. Now I'm retired and just got a lathe milling machine combination which has imperial dials so now I'm using metric which I'm totally happy with, and having to convert to imperial so that I can work accurately!
@@RedBeardOps I get it, the imperial measurements looking through the eyes of someone who grew up using metrics feels like a pain, look at the temperature measurements Fahrenheit it's so confusing, I know it is second nature to you, it just doesn't feel accurate more like estimates.
@@happygilmore2100 That is exactly what metric looks like to us! 🙂
It really baffles me why people who use the metric system exclusively still bitch about me using the imperial system
Impressive.
I took a machining class in high school... First lesson we had before we were allowed to touch the machines was the "Feeds and Speeds"... Then we had the "Safety" lesson. The teacher claimed he wanted to get to the good stuff right away but in retrospect I believe he wanted to prevent a bunch of teens from destroying the equipment lol.
Probably accurate!
For other youtuber that do some serious milling check out Abom79, oxtools, this old tony, AvE
Edit: Great work on the video.
Thanks man, glad you enjoyed it.
Great build. For those looking for parts you could try Banggood, they are similar to aliexpress but their delivery times are quicker. Almost everything i have ordered from them arrived in 7 to 8 days from china to the uk, despite them saying it will be 14 to 20 days. 😃
Nothing is shipping from china for the next few weeks/months/years.......
Good point! I put a few amazon links in there for some of the same components that can be bought domestically. The 3'' wheel may be hard to find in the states.
@AussieObserver i think the original comment was coronavirus related ... think this might be more universal problem
You’re right. Not cheap but so worth it.
Very worth it! Thank you sir!
Take a look at a dial test indicator to measure the surface finish accurately. Mount it on the column of your mill, then measure the surface of the table as you move it back and forth. Take note of the measurements and then repeat the process with your surface ground finish on the table and subtract the original measurements from the new ones.
When running the surface grinder, make sure you take super light passes as the metal you grind will heat up, expand and grind extra off, then cool back down and measure inconsistently.
Hope that helps!
Thanks man! Good tips!
@@RedBeardOps No worries. I didn't realise this video was from the start of the year before commenting. Sorry! :P I've been hoping to do a build exactly like this myself in the near future and I've been looking at the commercial attachments for the 84 engineering belt grinder system. Keen to see an update for your build (couldn't see one yet?).
Cheers!
impressive, Thanks for adding the domestic links as well. I am noticing that as of late shipping is more expensive and the international ones actually cost more. I just bought the stuff to build that etcher you made so keep posting the good stuff man.
Glad it was helpful!
If that was 6061 0 condition aluminum, You were correct, A Two or Three Flute End Mill, would work better. 6061, is Gummy like Copper. If you drill Copper or Brass, break the lead , (Dull it) that will keep the Tool from Sucking into the Material. Help Full Hint's I Hope.
Hey Don, thanks for the tips! Much appreciated.
Good job, we use paraffin as our cutting lubricant. One small comment I would make is to shield your bearings if you are grinding steel on your projects. Grinding particles can easily affect the smooth running of your bearings.
The Pagan thank you sir! Appreciate the comment.
Congrats! Looks great! I wasn't as patient as you I just bought the Origin Blademaker surface grinder. Got it last week. The surface grinders will really up our games. I have already found as you were doing it is of the utmost importance to true it up before you start using it. For me I ordered some 2 1/2" belts. They're easy to find. Good luck. I am anxious to follow your progress here as we both seem to be starting this part of the journey at the same time. Next is figuring out how and where to store it when not in use. It is a big burly thing and attracts a lot of metal dust (as it's magnetic). I need to find a way to store it that it doesn't accumulate metal shavings when not in use.
Awesome Jim! You'll have to let me know how the OBM works out for you. I think I'll be able to use some 3'' x 79'' belts that most people carry. I've been playing around with it over the last few days and it's promising! I'm thinking of storing it on the wall via hooks.
Interesting video! I have 2 real surface grinders that I bought on online auctions for far less than your build price. They both grind a surface finish to less than a 10th of a thousandth. BUT they are both 3 phase power and take up lots of space.
That's awesome sir, I'd love to have one like that! Do they run 0.75'' wheels? One negative of a large machine like that for my uses is that it will take a significant amount of time to surface a full tang knife with narrow wheels. Also I don't need that level of precision for full tang knives. So I'm sacrificing precision to gain speed and space it seems. Still, would love to have one! Thanks for your comment sir. Have a great one!
@@RedBeardOps I have lots of wheels, 3/4 width wheels 1/2 wheels, and several side dressing wheels and also diamond wheels. My small manual machine is a 6X12 (900 pounds) and the large machine is a hydraulic 12X24 (4600 pounds). Have you tried any type of mist for cooling to prevent heat warping? Even a constant /consistent source of compressed air would help with heat build up. NOGA makes a nice portable mist system that could also be used on your mill, lathe or drill press.
@@andrewevans1658 Very neat! I've found that there isn't much heat build up at all. My warping is generated during the quench. I have had very good success getting those warps out in the temper though.
Great and detailed video. May I suggest You transfer the Prepalll to a spray bottle and use a microfiber cloth. Other than that well done!
Thank you sir!
Magnetic tool makes it hard to position, adjust precisely and to take off the work peace. Moreover the metal dust sticks to the magnetic tool making its surface uneven, leading to uneven surface, which will result in imprecise work, as well as magnetise the work peace itself, which is not a desirable outcome. So, instead of magnetic, make it electromagnetic. Besides eliminating the magnetic problems it also will make the tool lighter and much easier to clean, control and so forth. For safety reasons you should also make stop ribs just in case the work peace flies off from under the belt.
Agreed, check this update video out - ruclips.net/video/_PYztWN2BiA/видео.html
Set up a metal billet at an angle and I bet it’ll help at least start the bevels. Awesome work!
Thanks Peter!
A very good and useful accessory. I've wanted to become one like that for a while, but I didn't know how to build it. Thank you so much for sharing it.
Cheers man! Really glad you enjoyed the video! Hope you build goes well.
You're the man ! The quality of the video is insane and the links make it easy to make. I was looking for a tutorial and found exactly what i was looking for, for les than 350$ ! Thx and keep up the amazing work !
Glad I could help! Thank you! Sorry for the delayed response!
i think if you made a rail with 1 or 2 more sets of those rollers the accuracy would be improved, may help with warped or rough stock as well as deeper passes. your a crafty dude, having a nice shop like yours helps as well. good video.
Thanks Dennis!
@@RedBeardOps your welcome bud, just a suggestion making it more rigid may help.
I would think that someone would have mentioned you have a mill. You don't need to transfer holes, just use the mill. Anyway good stuff, my daughter wants me to teach her how to make a knife, so now I need to make all the tools :)
Very cool, good luck with your knife Jimmy!
Pretty neat! There are ways of getting higher accuracy grinding on the mill as well. For knives, this seems more than accurate enough though.
Thanks Mel!
You can put option to tilt also in Y axis....its good for making precise grind mostly on kitchen knives directly on surface grinder...by the way nice work!!!
Thank you very much sir! Glad you enjoyed it. Good idea!
Very cool seeing how people can make things work. Thanks
Thank you sir! and thanks for watching!
Great work man.
Thanks for sharing your ideas with others.
I am sure there is someone who is watching this video more than once, to make sure they copy it well, LOL.
Thank you very much sir! Glad you enjoyed it!
Buy a quality cutter I like lakeshore carbide for cost as well as quality. Also, buy a mill narrower than the slots you are cutting and widen out to final demention. That will reduce burning. When installing magnets mark them direction wise then install every other magnet to reduce the chance of sticking together for the first pass maybe?
All very good tips! Thank you sir! If I ever build another one of these or something similar I will defiantly do that! Have a great week.
Im sure you know more about milling since this video. But the rule of thumb i learned with aluminum is the highest rpm you can get, use an up-cut spiral end mill, and turpentine for lube and you can haul ass!
Thanks for the tip!
Yeah man excellent attention to the details that are important. I can really tell you remember all those little ah ha moments that made you a better craftsman and pass them on as you narrate. Thanks for talking too come to think of it I am really getting tired of trying to get the pertinent info off a video where the guy just plays bottled porno music or bad techno it's infuriating. I was blown away by your use of the drill press as a jig to start your tap straight. For me that that simple tip is going to improve the quality of my work so much. I am so stoked. I made a custom tap handle with longer arms and a level the other day because my holes just weren't perfect and it was driving me nuts. I I've even broken taps trying to correct a bad start a little too far in. I can't believe I didn't know that already or think of it myself. I used a cordless to start some the other day with decent results until it broke off in a customer's piece. Had to grind it out with a diamond bit in the dremel. Anyways you are a gentleman and a scholar my friend you have my subscription. like the third one I've subscribed to in the last ten years.
Thank you very much sir! I'm really glad you were able to get some usable information form this video. Cheers!
I think that for these construction videos, it would be helpful to show the finished product first, then the construction and assembly. This helps each step make more sense. I know it involves using a time machine, but hey, you can make that the content for another video!
Noted sir; sorry for the inconvenience. I'm still getting the hang of video making.
Red Beard Ops almost no one else gets it right either. You could be first.
Very well done. Great project and well done showing it. I want to make one but I'd like to have mine horizontal instead of vertical though. Hopefully I'll get it done this spring.
I agree, One day I'll get my 2x72 to tilt. It's better horizontal ergonomically for sure.
Kerosene for cutting fluid in spray mist and a 2 flute end mill works very well for aluminum..
Good to know!
The name mini-mill is quite apt. I work with these little machines a lot and they work great but as Dirty Harry would say "A man's got to know his limitations"
Well it worked out. I would for sure change my approach if conducting this project again; and by learning though this project I will handle new task better! The fun of this hobby for me is learning new things by diving in and if some equipment gets torn up in the process that doesn't bother me too much. Thankfully in this case the mill was repairable and I was able to get on with the project. You're quote is spot on though.
@@RedBeardOps I do not mean to be critical, you do very nice work and it did indeed work out quite well. I tend to fuss with things that in the end, really don't need to be "fussed with". You said that one thousandth is good enough in most projects and you are right on. Trying to get "it" closer, is generally a waste of time and adds little in functionality, it may even hinder function.
@@oldhick9047 Thank you! Yeah this SGA seems like a winner so far for what I do. So far I've been able to achieve a 0.0011'' total variance over a 7.5'' long piece which is way good for full tang knife making. I appreciate your comments and your viewership! Have a good one.
Good attachment , it will be so easy to handle if the mouvement was horizontal
Agreed! Good think about this attachment is that it can easily be used on a horizontal grinder or one that rotates to horizontal. I hope to do this one of these days. Thank you for watching and commenting! Have a good one.
Hi,
nice idea.
about the belt with...
if you change the angel of the slider to the grinderwheel from same to a bit diffrent... then you can do it with the small belts.
have a nice day
greatz from Germany
Good idea. Cheers from Texas. I did end up getting some 3'' belts from Combat Abrasives. Thanks for watching!
Just a thought...if you used one of those 'tool balancers" attached to the top of the mag chuck, you would reduce the torque load on the device, especially on the adjustment table, so, maybe, reducing wear on its bearings, and reducing any potential 'droop' of the sliding assembly
Nice idea Lohi! Thanks for the comment!
On the belts try Industrial Abrasives in PA. They will make belts to the size you need.
Thanks for the suggestion! I ended up getting some from Combat Abrasives to try out. Cheers man.
hi looking for a 2x72 grinder,your great at making things,i got lots from your videos fun hobby
I'd get on blade forums and go to the for sale area looking for used grinders.
You can run more depth of cut with coolant. Soluble oil. The aluminum is melting. You are not cutting. With coolant you can take half of the end mill cut at a time. Just a tip.
Thanks for the tip!
The tooling arm or contact wheel is at Amazon for $57 second day shipping free shipping if you get prime just thought I would add that
Thanks John
Great project! I’ve been wanting to make one of these for years! Sorry about the mini mill mine did the same thing a couple years ago. Got a new brain box and a belt conversion and it’s all good now.
Cheers man! Thanks for watching. Yeah it breaking was my own fault. I'll be easier on it from now on. A belt conversion sounds like a great idea!
A roughing end mill would be better but a two flute mill would be even better. If you do a lot of aluminum there are single flute end mills that do great on aluminum.
Cheers man, thanks for the tip! I will for sure use a different end mill on aluminum the next time! Thanks for watching.
Loving the build Red Beard! Thanks for the interesting talk through of your project from the UK 👌
Thank you sir! Really glad you enjoyed it all the way over there across the pond! Cheers from Texas.
good stuff! thank you, this is a project ill be tackling next season and i knowcthis will come in very very handy! one aside, i notice your indexing and swapping bits...you may want to get a jacobs quick change precision chuck, an albrecht or jacobs brand used one can be had off ebay for about 80-100 bucks with patient searching and i promise your going to wonder how you ever lived without one!
Thank you sir! Glad you may be able to get something out of it! Thanks for the tips too. Have a good one.
Mcmaster carr carries 3" wide belts
Just reading the title I subscribed before your first request. This one video made it worth the “click.” Thank you for taking the time to produce this outstanding video. Excellent work!
LOL, thank you sir! Really glad you liked the video! This one was a fun one to make for sure. Hope to see you around the comment section.
funny was thinking about making a tool to do this job, only it would not be vertical for sure. Horizontal on guide rails with adjustable height and that goes from right to left. Thanks though.
Thanks for watching sir! Yes horizontal would be easier to operate. This hasn't been too bad though!
@@RedBeardOps like a tile cutter. Belt sander or better still orbital sander suspended on rails. some kind of height adjustment but also the ability to hold the piece incase the underside is not flat. Then waste less material and grind both sides. Have owned a wood factory making sash windows. Belt sanded hundreds or thousands of sash windows in 20 years. The factory next to me had a £30,000 sanding machine which took doors in and pumped them out to .3mm tolerance. Im just about to buy grounded steel plates for my cnc milling machine im welding up the frame for right now. Very expensive. 300mm x 800mm and 40mm thick costing £450 for that one piece. You got me thinking now to make the grinding machine and save cash. Oh and just rocked up at my dads and bizarrely enough he gave me a magazine. Does not know about my need for ground stock or this video yet his magazine is 60 pages full of grinding machines. ha ha
@@jamesbarratt593 lol, sounds like you have some work ahead of you! Good luck sir!
Nice job, pretty impressive. It'll be interesting to see how the epoxy holds up... A surface grinder was my 2nd big purchase(cost more than my grinder). On the Travis Weurtz SG, the magnets are in a metal base. I can't pull them up, but i can slide them out(if that makes sense). Also, there is a place to mount a dial indicator on the slide table(though I never use it, to be honest). Hope all is well, take it easy
Thanks dave! These little guys are strong! Really got to be careful taking the blade on and off. I think I could of gotten by with 1/2 the number of magnets! Thanks for your comment.
@@RedBeardOps Man, you don't know how many times I've gotten pinched. I usually use a flathead under the bevel, then slide the blade off. Definitely have to be careful. I use smaller round neodymium magnets to hold on separate plates for my tool rests, they are definitely powerful
@@evaderknives The only issues I've had with it thus far is chasing warps. Seems like you want the blade pretty warp free before putting it on the machine... since the magnets will pull out the warp.
Please put the Arabic translation. I am a good follower of you and benefited from you very much ... Thank you, always with success and success.
THank you Mohamed!
@@RedBeardOps Thank you very much and always wish you good luck
Interesting. I’m not a knife builder. Yet I think I learned a few things. Thanks
Hey Allen, thanks for the comment. I really appreciate what you said and am glad you got something out of the video!
I would defenatelly flip ur grinder on it side , much better for ur joints , also I made one like that myself few month ago , I did got myself 3" belts from industrial welding store they ordered them for 20(3x72) belts it was 170$ , but I would defenatelly swap it to side movement also with few more modifications u can do bevels on it not just tapers.
Thanks for your comment! Yeah, down the road I'll definitely put a pivot on my grinder. Right now it would throw sparks right into my shop with it's orientation, so i'm going to wait a while for that. Cheers! Thanks for watching!
Would it not be cheaper to just cut down a 4x72 belt? Or join together some 3x24 belts, both can easily be done.
@@Steve_Just_Steve Not a bad idea! Luckily many companies are making 3x79'' belts which should work just fine. Thanks for the suggestion though.
Very detailed and interesting to watch. I wonder, if it would become more handy and less of a workout, if there is some construction for retracting the magnetic holder slightly to the top position?
Yes sir for sure! However, an easier way would be to rotate the whole belt grinder counter clockwise. This is actually a very common feature that many modern 2x72 belt grinders have. Mine just doesn't! One day I hope to have this built into my machine. By doing this the assembly would be rotated 90 degrees and way easier to use. All that being said; It really hasn't been that much of a challenge to use at all in this orientation.
dont forget that the size grit of the sand paper is un-even to take account of measuring because they are small rocks that are randomly put on the paper so even if you measure the gap from the surface to the spinning wheel with the paper there will be a slight difference every time due to the rock grit having un even size of rocks within the paper.
dreamkiss4u agreed. This machine will not be as precise as a stone wheel surface grinder, however I’ve been able to hold between 0.0011” and 0.002” with it so far 👍
@@davidhoback4225 no one says they don't work lol
Nice job there. I have been following that thread for a bit now.
It's a great one man. I couldn't have made this thing without that thread. Can't wait to put it though it's paces.
Good Job! The more that You get used to the (Tool Deflection) on A Machine, You will be surprised on the Tolerance's that you can hold.
Thanks Don!
Drill an tape a hole in your blade to use a screw to pull ur knife up without scratching ur finish...I also use doubled side carpet tape for TI
Nice tip! Thank you sir! I watched your video on your surface grinder. Your cork belt finish is excellent! I'll have to give that a go. It seems like slow feed rates is key in general with these things.
@@RedBeardOps ....I run mone on my dozier it is 2hp I could horse it more an do it fast but I agree slow an steady..my wheel is 100 duro no give to .....cork belts are great I have three of grits well worn..i have a course on that is worn I use satin glo on it...it is a compound that sets up an gets a head on it an cuts steel....I also use them on sisal wheel on my buffer....blends finish to a high satin finish..great stuff....bob dozier told me about it years ago.Tom Krein also uses it
Houseknives very cool! Do you ever chase warps on it with shimms or do you make sure you’re straight going into it?
Wow, a lot of work went into that one. Looking fwd to see you do some tapered tangs!!
Cheers Ian, thanks for stopping by the comment section! Glad you liked it!
I like this & how you build it is that a home built belt grinder I like that too! Well done!
Thanks Gary. That grinder is made by these guys - kadrmaskreations.com/product-category/knife-grinders/
nice job ,mr red beard
Thank you sir!
Awesome informational educational video experience Y'alls God Bless Ya, I started this video earlier going to finish watching it now before I go to bed
Heck yeah Steven! Really happy you like it! It took me a while to produce that one.
If you turn your magnetic chuck sideways you could do concave surfaces and if you turn the entire machine sideways you will be able to use it longer instead of fighting gravity having it horizontal.