I'm not a pen maker but I am playing with timber and fibres for pendants and you've given me a new idea... Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences with others!
The variations of this technique must be endless with all kinds of patterns and colors! Super creative and beautiful results. Can't wait to get back to my lathe and try!
man's imagination and skill is what makes us different from other creatures not better but different, to see someone's passion for their craft or art is just awesome and inspiring. thank you for sharing. 👍
Thank-You, Thank-You, Thank-You. I have been turning and teaching Pen Making for about 30 yrs. ALL your videos are Very helpful to pass on to my students for their future projects. I have always had a problem with the various forms of preparing the blank for Celtic Knots and "Inlay Type" pens, and you made it MUCH Easier in your videos. Kudos.
+Arthur Loretti Thank you Arthur, One suggestion with soda aluminum is to rough it up a bit before gluing. It will hold together better. Also, if you have the time for glue drying, epoxy may be a getter adhesive. I use C/A because of its speed drying. Regards, Bob
Great job Bob. Some time ago I did something similar and i also used a small engineering square, just like you did. I found the stock was getting in the way, so I turned and used the stock for drawing the straight lines. By holding the blade, it made it much easier to work with.
Great video Bob. I gave it a shot. Looks like I need some scroll saw practice. Those corners are a "b" but I got it done. I also had a little trouble with chipping at the ends the closer I got. I think the next one I do I will sand both sides of the aluminum to get better adhesion when I glue it down. All in all I am pretty happy with it.
Thank you Dale, it was definitely worth the time. I love the soda can pens and they have been very popular, especially when made with Mt. Dew cans. Regards, Bob
I think I'd get interested in turning a pen after watching this video. I mostly turn mugs and I think I could try this method on a mug very soon. Thanks again.
If you do, use epoxy, the C/A works ok for small items but a bigger chunk of wood will not hold. I’m sure you knew that but I wanted it out here in case someone else reads the comment. I’d hate for someone to get hurt. Regards, Bob
Good job Bob. It's a while since you put this vid up and all the gumpf is still current in 2019. I will use a Soda can in my next pen for an insert but not to the degree that you have shown. Would imagine the CA smears stayed on your fingers for a good while going through the gluing and clamping. Thanks for sharing. Buddha, Beachmere Australia
@@RJBWoodTurner Thanks for the tip Bob. Will try Epoxy as u suggest. With the CA I really made a mess of it in trying to quickly put the wood and aluminium together and alas the alignment didn't turn out as good as I wanted. Epoxy would be more forgiving.
Thanks for a great video. I am trying to make a Celtic Knot pen and am looking for some material. I am looking for a laminate that is aluminum/acrylic (a variety of colors) /aluminum (3 layers) that totals 3/64-1/16 thick. That would fit the bandsaw cut in my pen blank and give a Celtic Knot that is not really thick. The different colors is so that I can have contrasting colors in the variety of woods i.e. Walnut, Maple, Cherry and Ebony.
Hi Bob. I have to say from the land of the Celtic Knot, you have done a brilliant job. It is the best tutorial i have seen on youtube. Please keep up the good work and i hope borrow some of your expert knowledge. Well done from the Irish...
Hi your celtic pen is something else, I am only a beginner so I have a goal to look forward to, thanks for your chanel I also use Carl Jacobson regards Duncan for Lancashire England :-)
Wonderful. don't turn, but this and the turning video may inspire me tho think harder about it. Possible suggestion: figure out a way to leave a small lip on the ends of the blank and use dyed epoxy instead of aluminum. have no idea if it is possible, but if so it would produce a really nice effect.
bob great job on this video. I had a ton of questions that were answered in this video. thank you very much for your hard work. keep the videos coming always enjoy them.
Great video!! I wondered how you made the knots. Didn't know you did all 4 sides though. If you're ever looking to try something new try making a pen out of 1 piece of wood. The ink cartridge came out of a regular pen. I'll try to find the link to a video I saw on YT.
Thank you John, I'll bet this makes a beautiful handle. One thing to mention, I cut side two 90 degrees from side one. It should have been 180 degrees for a more aesthetic looking knot. Regards, Bob
Hello i have been doing pens for about a year now and i fine it very claiming. Its my unwind time i love this ..but with the amount of time how much would you have to get to make it worth doing more them a few for friends and family...just found your channel and iam going to dig into it .hope u can get back to me ty bob from new jersey
Hello Bob, I’m happy you like the blank. I apologize but I don’t take commissions as I barely have time to do my own work. Thank you for watching my videos. Regards, Bob
Brilliant tutorial Bob, thank you for all the details....all that remains for me to do now is to drink a can of Diet Coke, get a pen blank and some CA and go and turn one! ;) Take care Mike
This was a great video and I have subscribed (maybe twice by mistake), but I look forward to trying it. You made it look fairly easy, but one thing turning pens will teach you is patience. Thanks much.
Great vid, thank you for sharing. Gonna try this on a single barrel pen to start out. I wonder if really thin wood veneer will work on this design? Thanx again
Scott, Thin veneer works well too. You Just want to make sure the veneer is close to the same thickness as your blade kerf. Otherwise it will throw the blank off. Regards, Bob
Really nice work. I've been turning celtic knot pens for a few years now and they always fascinate people. Awesome job of explaining the process. Just curious, why did it matter where you positioned the color on the can? I might have fine sanded both sides to improve the glue joints. I've worked with metal in pens and it can be fussy.
Hello Don, Sanding both sides would guarantee a longer lasting hold and a better glue grip. I was hoping to see some of the colors from the can in the knot after turning. There was plenty of color until I sanded. Sanding removed almost all of it. I think the pre sanding I'd your best bet. Regards, Bob
+Mr. Mickles LOL, when I get started on a new idea, i get rolling and I sometimes forget to put on my gloves. Thank you For watching and commenting. Regards, Bob
Wanting to get started in pen making. Will the Harbour Freight lathe work for this? and where is the best place to get the glue and turning blades?Thanks, Retiring in Fla. Larry.
+Larry Apel Hello Larry, Sorry for the delay in responding, for some reason, your comment was in my spam filter. The Harbor Freight lathe is what I use and will do just fine for turning pens. The things I don't like about it are: 1.> You have to change the belts to change speeds and they are not super accessible. 2.> No Reverse so you will need to flip your blanks to sand in reverse. 3.> the motor is 1/3 hp so it struggles with larger items. For turning pens and small things it works great and the price is right. I don't use the carbide blades so I can't really answer that question. I like the C/A and Accelerator from Insta Bond. I purchase it from Packard Woodworks at www.packardwoodworks.com. I hope this info answers your questions and helps you.Regards,Bob
I realize that this is a older video, but what a great lesson!! I am going to give it a go, I do not have a scroll saw so hopefully my bandsaw will suffice lol. I am a recent subscriber from Canada and I love watching your skills!! Cheers keep turning Bob McCabe
Why are you concerned which side the pained aluminum is placed if you only see the edge of it when you are finished? Maybe you can avoid the joint by using a tall boy beer can. Great job on the blank.
Brian, You're right is doesn't matter on this design, some of the others I have been making show a little of the colored Aluminum. I guess I just had that on my mind. A tall boy would be a great idea. I picket up a Monster can that is tall and want to give it a try. Regards, Bob
Thanks for the videos, Bob. I have two demos coming up in May and guess who I'll be copying ; >) ... with due credit of course. Well done, sir. Well done.
Very cool! I was trying to figure out what the final pen would look like and my imagination didn't even come close. Thanks for the video and the fantastic instructions. I'm a subscriber now.
hi Bob, I am new to turning pens. I was following the directions that come with the pen kits and they read that you are to add a 1/16 th of an inch to the tube which is 2 1/32nd of an inch. i am wondering why you and others are cutting the blanks down the middle ? instead of doing like the directions say ? does it work out to the same or is it easier? thank you, and i am going to try this Celtic knot when I get better at turning. thank you Ernest
+Ernie G Hello Ernest, I hope I can do justice to this explanation. The 1/16" of an inch is added to the blank so that it can be properly squared prior to turning. The reason we cut them down the middle, and mark them is so we can match the two pieces of wood back up in hopes of having a continuous grain pattern from top of the pen to the bottom. We insert the brass tube at the center cut mark so we can trim off as little as possible from the middle of the pen, once again hoping for the continuation of the grain pattern. The opposite end of the blank will have much more wood left, more than 1/16". We barrel trim that away. Sometimes if it is a really large amount, I will lop it off at the band saw then barrel trim. Regards, Bob
Hi Bob, Thank you for your reply on my question. i understand it now, and to be honest i do get tired of measuring out each blank according to the directions lol. thank you Ernest
I used a Scroll Saw. A bandsaw should work if you have a thin enough blade. With a bandsaw you should build a sled for perfect cuts every time. Regards, Bob
Hello, I mostly turn pens so I'll answer your question from that perspective. You will of course need a lathe. If I were starting over again, I would probably go with the Easy Wood Carbide tools. There is a set with a square cutter, round cutter, and a diamond shaped detail cutter. These tools are fairly easy to master and when they get dull, you just replace the cutters, no learning to sharpen or expensive sharpening systems. I'm going to assume you want to start with ink pens and tell you what you need for that. When you purchase a pen kit, the seller will tell you what bushings and what size drill bit you will need to make that pen. Bushings can be used over-and-over and bits only need to be purchased once. The first pen is expensive due to this overhead. Medium C/A glue, or Epoxy for gluing tubes into Acrylics blanks. Both work on wood too. You do not need a Pen Insertion tool, you can use a screw driver. They are nice to have but not a necessity. Purchase a barrel trimmer set with the four most common sizes: 7mm, 8mm, 3/8", and 10mm. This is a must have. You will need a mandrel, I personally like the Mandrel Saver setup that Penn State sells. A mandrel is a must have. For Acrylics, the easiest was to an amazing finish is Micro Mesh pads. Sand paper is to coarse for Acrylics and should be reserved for wood. Get a box with 4 or 5 different grits. You will need a finish for your pens. Finish for Acrylics: I like Hut Ultra Gloss. It's quick and the results are great. Finish for wood: Thin C/A is my favorite. Shella Way is nice for beginners, as is Hut Friction Polish. C/A is the toughest to master but looks the best and lasts the longest. A pen press is nice to have. You can use a clamp or the lathe to press your pens together. Laney Shaughnessy has a video on his channel that shows how to build one. It's really good. Otherwise, purchasing a press can be expensive. That is pretty much everything I can think of. I hope this helps. Regards, Bob
+RJBWoodTurner Try an art supply shop. A couple years ago a local art store, not a chain store, had 8 1/2 by 11 " thin sheets of copper, brass, some silvery metal. It was nearby the copper lattice type screen used for kitchen, other cabinets, over window glass, etc. Luck.
I'm not a pen maker but I am playing with timber and fibres for pendants and you've given me a new idea... Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experiences with others!
Thank you Gillian,
I'm glad you found inspiration in my video.
Regards,
Bob
The variations of this technique must be endless with all kinds of patterns and colors! Super creative and beautiful results. Can't wait to get back to my lathe and try!
They are,
I have made several different designs and my mind is full of ideas for new ones.
Regards,
Bob
man's imagination and skill is what makes us different from other creatures not better but different, to see someone's passion for their craft or art is just awesome and inspiring. thank you for sharing. 👍
+Paul Brady Thank you Paul.
Regards,
Bob
Thank-You, Thank-You, Thank-You. I have been turning and teaching Pen Making for about 30 yrs. ALL your videos are Very helpful to pass on to my students for their future projects. I have always had a problem with the various forms of preparing the blank for Celtic Knots and "Inlay Type" pens, and you made it MUCH Easier in your videos. Kudos.
+Arthur Loretti Thank you Arthur,
One suggestion with soda aluminum is to rough it up a bit before gluing. It will hold together better. Also, if you have the time for glue drying, epoxy may be a getter adhesive. I use C/A because of its speed drying.
Regards,
Bob
I said it was beautiful before, but now I can see the genius behind this pen blank. Thank you for the video.
You are very welcome,
I hope you give it a try.
Regards,
Bob
Great Project and idea Bob! A lot of work up front but what a great result!
Chris
Thank you Chris,
Regards,
Bob
An excellent pen and tutorial Bob! Nice work!
Ron
Thank you Ron.
Regards,
Bob
Very good video & very nice pen. I MUST figure this out without a scroll saw.
Thank you,
I'm sure it can be done without a scroll saw, you just need to match the blade kerf with the filler material.
Regards,
Bob
Great job Bob. Some time ago I did something similar and i also used a small engineering square, just like you did. I found the stock was getting in the way, so I turned and used the stock for drawing the straight lines. By holding the blade, it made it much easier to work with.
That little square is an awesome tool. I’ll have to try holding it by the blade some time.
Regards,
Bob
I watched the first video. This is a great follow up. I will be trying this soon as well as playing with the size and number of knots. Thank you
You are welcome Warren,
I'm glad it helped.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks for the follow up Bob. Can't wait to try this out. Thanks again, Fred
Thank you Fred.
Regards,
Bob
Great video Bob. I gave it a shot. Looks like I need some scroll saw practice. Those corners are a "b" but I got it done. I also had a little trouble with chipping at the ends the closer I got. I think the next one I do I will sand both sides of the aluminum to get better adhesion when I glue it down. All in all I am pretty happy with it.
That great Frank,
I'm glad you gave it a try ad I hope you go for it again.
Regards,
Bob
A very cool and creative idea.
Thank you very much.
Regards,
Bob
came here because of the title - stayed for the very interesting tutorial and spectacular result! Thank you very much indeed for this video!
You are welcome Lars,
I'm very happy that you liked it.
Regards,
Bob
Looks like it will take a little time but worth it. I like what you did with that pen.
Thank you Dale,
it was definitely worth the time. I love the soda can pens and they have been very popular, especially when made with Mt. Dew cans.
Regards,
Bob
you need to use a rubber shelf liner or shammy to set your pieces on so they don't move while marking. love it.
+Sunshines' Shadow Good tip, thank you.
Regards,
Bob
or put in vice or between bench dogs
Beautiful. I can think of some other things to use the pop can for in wood turning. Thanks .
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
I think I'd get interested in turning a pen after watching this video. I mostly turn mugs and I think I could try this method on a mug very soon. Thanks again.
If you do, use epoxy, the C/A works ok for small items but a bigger chunk of wood will not hold. I’m sure you knew that but I wanted it out here in case someone else reads the comment. I’d hate for someone to get hurt.
Regards,
Bob
Very good instructions for a celtic blank. I will try one for sure. Thanks Bob :-)
Thank you,
Regards,
Bob
Good job Bob. It's a while since you put this vid up and all the gumpf is still current in 2019. I will use a Soda can in my next pen for an insert but not to the degree that you have shown. Would imagine the CA smears stayed on your fingers for a good while going through the gluing and clamping. Thanks for sharing. Buddha, Beachmere Australia
Thank you David.
Epoxy would work better and he sure to rough the cans up.
Regards
Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner Thanks for the tip Bob. Will try Epoxy as u suggest. With the CA I really made a mess of it in trying to quickly put the wood and aluminium together and alas the alignment didn't turn out as good as I wanted. Epoxy would be more forgiving.
Well explained and a great piece of work. Thank you very much Bob. I intend to give that a go.
Thank you Wayne.
Regards,
Bob
great tutorial watched a few of your pen jobs brilliant and a left hander too i will try some pen making myself now
Good to meet a fellow southpaw.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks for a great video. I am trying to make a Celtic Knot pen and am looking for some material. I am looking for a laminate that is aluminum/acrylic (a variety of colors) /aluminum (3 layers) that totals 3/64-1/16 thick. That would fit the bandsaw cut in my pen blank and give a Celtic Knot that is not really thick. The different colors is so that I can have contrasting colors in the variety of woods i.e. Walnut, Maple, Cherry and Ebony.
Check out Guitar Pick Guard. You can buy it on eBay. It’s multi color and looks cool.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob. I have to say from the land of the Celtic Knot, you have done a brilliant job. It is the best tutorial i have seen on youtube. Please keep up the good work and i hope borrow some of your expert knowledge. Well done from the Irish...
+Gerard Lawlor Thank you Gerald.
Regards,
Bob
Great 👍,I tried my first one turned out ok,but one side was tighter than the other
Glad you tried it. Do another blank, each one will get better.
Regards,
Bob
As usual great work. I like your little square too.
Thank you,
I can't remember where I got it but it is one handy little tool.
Regards,
Bob
It's a Groz 2" square
Great video and clear explanation. Thank you
Thank you Dawn.
Regards,
Bob
Hi your celtic pen is something else, I am only a beginner so I have a goal to look forward to, thanks for your chanel I also use Carl Jacobson regards Duncan for Lancashire England :-)
Thank you Duncan,
I truly appreciate the comment and you'll be attempting pens like this in no time.
Regards,
Bob
Hi if I can get as good as you and my brother I will be more than happy take care Duncan
You will Duncan,
Soon we will be looking to you for projects and inspiration.
Regards,
Bob
Wonderful. don't turn, but this and the turning video may inspire me tho think harder about it. Possible suggestion: figure out a way to leave a small lip on the ends of the blank and use dyed epoxy instead of aluminum. have no idea if it is possible, but if so it would produce a really nice effect.
Very interesting Charles,
That may be worth looking into.
Regards,
Bob
I've been putting off buying a scroll saw. Now, I see the saw is essential. New tool!
The scroll saw and the lathe are tied as my favorite tools. I just needed a way to combine the two for more enjoyment in the shop. Viola.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks for the tutorial it gives me a good base to start making some cool pens to maybe start selling one day.
+Sawdust Trails (Jonathan Heaton) Your welcome Jonathan,
If I can answer any questions please feel free to let me know.
Regards,
Bob
That was probably the most wholesome outro I've ever seen on RUclips; Nice Vid!
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
I must guess that you used a scroll saw spiral blade to make fine cuts and change directions.. Very nice tutorial.
No,
Spiral bakes too wide of a kerf. I used a 2/0 skip tooth.
Regards,
Bob
That is very clever and you are so creative. thanks.
Thank you Gerald,
I appreciate the comment.
Regards,
Bob
bob great job on this video. I had a ton of questions that were answered in this video. thank you very much for your hard work. keep the videos coming always enjoy them.
You are welcome Dennis.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks for all your hard work. Love the video.
Jerry
Thank you Jerry.
Regards,
Bob
Great Job Bob.
Thank you Paul.
Regards,,
Bob
Great instructional video. Spectacular results!
Thank you Mick.
Regards,
Bob
Super cool. Learning a lot from you.
Thank you Lee.
Regards,
Bob
MY DUDE !
THAT'S GORGEOUS !!!
+Kelly Bell Thank you,
Regards,
Bob
Great video!! I wondered how you made the knots. Didn't know you did all 4 sides though.
If you're ever looking to try something new try making a pen out of 1 piece of wood. The ink cartridge came out of a regular pen. I'll try to find the link to a video I saw on YT.
Thank you,
I'd love to see that video. I will have to give it a try, sounds interesting and challenging.
Regards,
Bob
RJBWoodTurner No problem. It is very interesting and there's no pen kit needed. Just the box of pens that you buy at the store.
I'm looking forward to it. Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
RJBWoodTurner No problem.
Great tutorial Bob. Thanks so much for the lesson in this awesome design That pen is fantastic. Thanks Patrick
Thank you Patrick,
Regards,
Bob
Very......cool! Providing I could acquire it, is there any reason that I couldn't use copper or brass?
I think Copper and Brass would both work great. If I had either of them, I'd attempt to turn them.
Regards,
Bob
You just made this so you can superglue fingertips, and cops cant fingerprint you.
I'm onto you !
+MrDeicide1 LOL, it can cause that if your sloppy like me.
Regards,
Bob
Terrific! Thank you for what you do and for sharing it with us! I will be trying this.
You are welcome Steve,
I hope you give it a try, these are fun blanks to make and turn.
Regards,
Bob
Pretty neat process Bob! Cool effect
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob: thanks for the update information, that Celtic Knot pen was one of the nicest pens I have seen for a long time, Best wishes Harry
Thank you Harry,
I really appreciate that.
Regards,
Bob
Great tutorial Bob you made a very cool pen from a can and a small piece of wood and I like it and might give this a try some time.
Thank you Erik,
They are very easy and make some amazing pens.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you very much Bob, I will try that in a larger scale on one of my shift knobs.
Greetings from Germany,
Markus
You are welcome Markus,
I'd love to see this shift knob when you complete it.
Regards,
Bob
Great Job bob that was a good instructional video
Thank you,
I had so many requests wanting to know how I made it that I thought a follow up was in order.
Regards,
Bob
can't wait to try this. thanks for the video.
Your welcome Jerry,
Thank you for watching.
Regards,
Bob
Again another great video. You made it so clear on every step and I really think I might try that next. ? Again Thanks
Postalbob
Thank you Robert,
I really appreciate your comment.
Regards,
Bob
great instructional video
Thank you.
Thank you Bob! I did get my wish. GREAT video as always. Going to try it this week..
You are welcome,
You're going to love just how easy these blanks are to make and everyone who sees one is amazed at how cool they look.
Regards,
Bob
Awesome pen. How do you remove all of the CA from your fingers?
That was an older video, I now use thick C/A, it’s easier to manage and much cleaner to work with.
Regards,
Bob
njce tutorial bob,will try it out for a stick handle,regards from the u.k.
Thank you John,
I'll bet this makes a beautiful handle. One thing to mention, I cut side two 90 degrees from side one. It should have been 180 degrees for a more aesthetic looking knot.
Regards,
Bob
Hello i have been doing pens for about a year now and i fine it very claiming. Its my unwind time i love this ..but with the amount of time how much would you have to get to make it worth doing more them a few for friends and family...just found your channel and iam going to dig into it .hope u can get back to me ty bob from new jersey
Hello Bob,
I’m happy you like the blank. I apologize but I don’t take commissions as I barely have time to do my own work. Thank you for watching my videos.
Regards,
Bob
Hi there, love the video. How did you get the angles so sharp on the cuts? My bandsaw would curve it more that cut that’s sharp zig zags. Thanks
I was using a scroll saw with a 2/0 skip tooth blade. You can make really tight corners.
Regards,
Bob
HI RJ. Thanks for taking the time to teach! You mention placing the image on the can on the outside. How can you tell which side is out?
+don wires As long as you face them all the same direction, you'll be fine.
Regards,
Bob
Brilliant tutorial Bob, thank you for all the details....all that remains for me to do now is to drink a can of Diet Coke, get a pen blank and some CA and go and turn one! ;)
Take care
Mike
Thank you Mike,
Making these pens is addicting so be careful.
Regards,
Bob
instaBlaster...
Great end product and instructions, Great tutorial thanks for sharing...........Albert
Thank you Albert,
Regards,
Bob
Super cool! Great explanation and very clear. Can't wait to make one! :)
+Janet Brien Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
A very good video covering the procedure. Are you using a spiral blade on your scroll saw? Those corner cuts look pretty sharp.
Thank you Ron,
I wanted as thin a kerf as possible so I used a 2/0 Crown Tooth blade from Olsen.
Regards,
Bob
great instructional video i cant wait to give this or a variation of a go. thank you,
Thank you Adrian.
Regards,
Bob
This was a great video and I have subscribed (maybe twice by mistake), but I look forward to trying it. You made it look fairly easy, but one thing turning pens will teach you is patience. Thanks much.
+steve Corry Thank you Corry,
It does teach patience. In the end, it's worth it.
Regards,
Bob
Great vid, thank you for sharing. Gonna try this on a single barrel pen to start out. I wonder if really thin wood veneer will work on this design? Thanx again
Scott,
Thin veneer works well too. You
Just want to make sure the veneer is close to the same thickness as your blade kerf. Otherwise it will throw the blank off.
Regards,
Bob
Question: I wanted to begin woodtirning pens and pencils.. where do I start? How do I start? What do I need in order to start?
This should help:
What Tools Do I Need For Turning Pens
ruclips.net/video/RUgvTntOb-4/видео.html
Regards,
Bob
Celtic Knot pen....WOW!
+Ronald Wayne Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
I was at my local hobby lobby and they have thin sheet metal in the pinewood derby section
Thanks Luis,
I didn't think about checking there. I was looking at my Lowes.
Regards,
Bob
I would love to know how you managed to get such clean cuts with a scroll saw. How did you get that angle cut cleanly with that saw?
I use a 2/0 skip tooth blade.
Regards,
Bob
great teaching... thank you....
+glen emery Thank you Glen.
Regards,
Bob
Great tutorial Bob, I might give this a go.Is CA better than epoxy for this ????????
Epoxy would be better if you have the time. C/A isn’t a long term adhesive either. It will get brittle and break after a while.
Regards,
Bob
Thank you for the information Bob, I will look at making a jig to hold the parts in place. 👍👍👍👍
Wonderful as always RJBWoodTurner! Thanks for the detailed video. :D
Thank you Branden,
Regards,
Bob
Really nice work. I've been turning celtic knot pens for a few years now and they always fascinate people. Awesome job of explaining the process. Just curious, why did it matter where you positioned the color on the can? I might have fine sanded both sides to improve the glue joints. I've worked with metal in pens and it can be fussy.
Hello Don,
Sanding both sides would guarantee a longer lasting hold and a better glue grip. I was hoping to see some of the colors from the can in the knot after turning. There was plenty of color until I sanded. Sanding removed almost all of it.
I think the pre sanding I'd your best bet.
Regards,
Bob
Very,very nice!
Thank you,
Regards,
Bob
You seem to have gotten a little glue on your fingers.
Seriously though, this is wonderful. Thank you for showing this.
+Mr. Mickles LOL, when I get started on a new idea, i get rolling and I sometimes forget to put on my gloves. Thank you
For watching and commenting.
Regards,
Bob
When you are cutting your blank, are you using a scroll saw? if so what blade do you use so you can make the tight corners without rounding them off?
I use a 2/0 skip tooth blade.
Regards,
Bob
Gorgeous! :-) Great as always! Why use 2 pieces of aluminum as opposed to one long piece??
Hello Andy,
Only reason I used two was the can wasn’t tall enough. A tall boy can would be perfect.
Regards,
Bob
how could someone thumbs down this video?
Thank you Brian,
LOL, I quit asking myself that question a long time ago.
Regards,
Bob
What scroll saw blade do you use? Id think a #1 being the smallest but will that cut through 3/4" hardwood? Or are you using a larger size?
This was a long time ago but I believe I was using a # 2/0 skip tooth or crown tooth blade.
Regards,
Bob
@@RJBWoodTurner excellent! Thanks for the info!
Wanting to get started in pen making. Will the Harbour Freight lathe work for this? and where is the best place to get the glue and turning blades?Thanks, Retiring in Fla. Larry.
+Larry Apel Hello Larry, Sorry for the delay in responding, for some reason, your comment was in my spam filter. The Harbor Freight lathe is what I use and will do just fine for turning pens. The things I don't like about it are: 1.> You have to change the belts to change speeds and they are not super accessible. 2.> No Reverse so you will need to flip your blanks to sand in reverse. 3.> the motor is 1/3 hp so it struggles with larger items. For turning pens and small things it works great and the price is right. I don't use the carbide blades so I can't really answer that question. I like the C/A and Accelerator from Insta Bond. I purchase it from Packard Woodworks at www.packardwoodworks.com. I hope this info answers your questions and helps you.Regards,Bob
I realize that this is a older video, but what a great lesson!! I am going to give it a go, I do not have a scroll saw so hopefully my bandsaw will suffice lol. I am a recent subscriber from Canada and I love watching your skills!!
Cheers keep turning Bob McCabe
Thank you Robert.
Use the thinnest blade you can. Aluminum cans are really thin.
Regards,
Bob
that's pretty amazing thank you for sharing
+Pascal Surprenant Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
Why are you concerned which side the pained aluminum is placed if you only see the edge of it when you are finished? Maybe you can avoid the joint by using a tall boy beer can. Great job on the blank.
Brian,
You're right is doesn't matter on this design, some of the others I have been making show a little of the colored Aluminum. I guess I just had that on my mind.
A tall boy would be a great idea. I picket up a Monster can that is tall and want to give it a try.
Regards,
Bob
Thanks for the videos, Bob. I have two demos coming up in May and guess who I'll be copying ; >) ... with due credit of course. Well done, sir. Well done.
Thank you John,
I truly appreciate that. Here's to two fantastic demos.
Regards,
Bob
Could you use a thin copper instead of aluminium?
Copper would work great, just use epoxy instead of C/A.
Regards,
Bob
How much does it affect the drill bit by having to drill through the aluminum? Probably a bit more wear and tear ....
+Joseph Dunphy On a straight through, perpendicular, not at all. When the AL is at an angle it can drift so I recommend a pilot hole.
Regards,
Bob
I have the same problem with the glue. How do you get the glue off your finger tips.
+Mike Yow Acetone or just keep peeling for about a week.
Regards,
Bob
looks nice!
Thank you Gabby.
Regards,
Bob
Lovely!!!🎉❤
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
What pen kit did you use please Bob.....thanks in advance.....regards Mick
It’s been a while but I believe that was a Penn State Fun Line Kit.
Regards,
Bob
Bob, are you using a spiral bit scroll blade?
Mark
No,
I'm using an Olsen 2/0 Crown Tooth Blade. The spiral blades are nice but the kerf is to big for my liking.
Regards,
Bob
Very cool! I was trying to figure out what the final pen would look like and my imagination didn't even come close. Thanks for the video and the fantastic instructions. I'm a subscriber now.
Thank you Romney,
I truly do appreciate that.
Regards,
Bob
hi Bob,
I am new to turning pens. I was following the directions that come with the pen kits and they read that you are to add a 1/16 th of an inch to the tube which is 2 1/32nd of an inch. i am wondering why you and others are cutting the blanks down the middle ? instead of doing like the directions say ? does it work out to the same or is it easier?
thank you, and i am going to try this Celtic knot when I get better at turning.
thank you
Ernest
+Ernie G Hello Ernest,
I hope I can do justice to this explanation.
The 1/16" of an inch is added to the blank so that it can be properly squared prior to turning.
The reason we cut them down the middle, and mark them is so we can match the two pieces of wood back up in hopes of having a continuous grain pattern from top of the pen to the bottom.
We insert the brass tube at the center cut mark so we can trim off as little as possible from the middle of the pen, once again hoping for the continuation of the grain pattern.
The opposite end of the blank will have much more wood left, more than 1/16". We barrel trim that away. Sometimes if it is a really large amount, I will lop it off at the band saw then barrel trim.
Regards,
Bob
Hi Bob,
Thank you for your reply on my question. i understand it now, and to be honest i do get tired of measuring out each blank according to the directions lol.
thank you
Ernest
+Ernie G LOL,
I know what you mean about all the measuring. It does get tedious.
Regards,
Bob
Is it possible to use super glue from the big name stores or is it better to get it using the scientific name
You can in a pinch but I have had exponentially better results with C/A formulated for own finishing.
Regards,
Bob
Great work, try using gloves when working with the ca glue
This is an old video,
My whole process has changed. 😀
What machine did u use to cut it, because my teacher doesn’t know if he has one. Would a band saw work too? Thanks A lot! Love your videos!!!!
I used a Scroll Saw.
A bandsaw should work if you have a thin enough blade. With a bandsaw you should build a sled for perfect cuts every time.
Regards,
Bob
Very nice.
Thanks Mark,
That video is an oldie. 😀
I am interested in getting into turning, where should i begin?
Hello,
I mostly turn pens so I'll answer your question from that perspective.
You will of course need a lathe.
If I were starting over again, I would probably go with the Easy Wood Carbide tools. There is a set with a square cutter, round cutter, and a diamond shaped detail cutter.
These tools are fairly easy to master and when they get dull, you just replace the cutters, no learning to sharpen or expensive sharpening systems.
I'm going to assume you want to start with ink pens and tell you what you need for that.
When you purchase a pen kit, the seller will tell you what bushings and what size drill bit you will need to
make that pen. Bushings can be used over-and-over and bits only need to be purchased once. The first pen is expensive due to this overhead.
Medium C/A glue, or Epoxy for gluing tubes into Acrylics blanks. Both work on wood too.
You do not need a Pen Insertion tool, you can use a screw driver. They are nice to have but not a necessity.
Purchase a barrel trimmer set with the four most common sizes: 7mm, 8mm, 3/8", and 10mm. This is a must have.
You will need a mandrel, I personally like the Mandrel Saver setup that Penn State sells. A mandrel is a must have.
For Acrylics, the easiest was to an amazing finish is Micro Mesh pads. Sand paper is to coarse for Acrylics and should be reserved for wood. Get a box with 4 or 5 different grits.
You will need a finish for your pens.
Finish for Acrylics:
I like Hut Ultra Gloss. It's quick and the results are great.
Finish for wood:
Thin C/A is my favorite.
Shella Way is nice for beginners, as is Hut Friction Polish. C/A is the toughest to master but looks the best and lasts the longest.
A pen press is nice to have. You can use a clamp or the lathe to press your pens together. Laney Shaughnessy has a video on his channel that shows how to build one. It's really good. Otherwise, purchasing a press can be expensive.
That is pretty much everything I can think of.
I hope this helps.
Regards,
Bob
Wish I knew type of saw you used...
Dewalt DW788
have you tried this with any other soft metals like copper and brass?
Not yet but you can believe I will. I was looking for thin sheets of copper locally. No luck yet.
Regards,
Bob
+RJBWoodTurner Try an art supply shop. A couple years ago a local art store, not a chain store, had 8 1/2 by 11 " thin sheets of copper, brass, some silvery metal. It was nearby the copper lattice type screen used for kitchen, other cabinets, over window glass, etc. Luck.
Great tip,
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob
+RJBWoodTurner You can get sheets of brass and copper from Hobby Lobby. I think an outfit named KS Metals.
+timffoster I recently picked up a sheet of brass. But I haven't had an opportunity to use it in a project yet.
Regards,
Bob