You did everything right except for one major thing. Never, and I mean never, turn on a valve that fast!!!! My superintendent just did that and blew 3 holes in an 8” water main off the street and popped off a 4” copper press joint. Turn on/off slowly to let the water fill the pipe first then open it all the way.
Good advice! We have very high water pressure here because the water main that serves my property starts at 4000 ft elevation and runs along the dirt switchback roads that descends in elevation for the 2 miles it takes to get to my house which is at 3500 ft. elevation. My leak isn't this bad, and it's at the base of an outdoor spigot. I don't know what I'm dealing with until I dig it up, but I believe my goats are the culprits! They love to vigorously head but anything sticking out of the ground, such as a metal pipe. I'm hoping it's just a loose connection, but more than likely I've got a cracked pipe. I'm hoping I can fix it temporarily with epoxy until I can get whatever connectors I'm going to need.
Siva Kumar it's probably quite late now to answer ur ? But usually homes have two shut off valves that lead to a home 1 is usually right outside your home somewhere near outside the door maybe or near a spigot where you can attach a water hose to and the other which is the main main one its out by the street usually in most cases
Siva Kumar you can call your local utility company to shut off your Main line but you can easily do it yourself with a special tool they usually call it like a T Bar If i remember correctly this guy showed it on his video he didn't actually explain it but he showed it
TheMeddiee Assuming the water meter is similar to mine (which, it also seems to be similar to the guy's meter that made this video), all you really need is a sturdy pair of 'vice-grip' type pliers. All you do is take the vice-grip pliers & adjust them so they are able clamp down tightly onto the in/out-flow valve 'dial'. Then, you'll likely be able to just leave the pliers attached to that dial until the job that is being performed is complete. On my meter (and I assume all of them), *to turn the water OFF it's about 1/2 turn of the dial clockwise. And of course, to turn on, it's the opposite turn.* :-) Just my own experience - and I thought I'd share. I also just want to say a BIG thanks to the guy that made this video. Anything that empowers a homeowner to do more things (and also enabling them to save a bunch of money in the process) that will help his/her family is awesome! Thanks man!
I've a leak on my property tried to get a plumber many times to come fix it , but they mustn't need the work , Will try and fix it myself thanks to this video .. THANK YOU VERY HELPFULL
Steve Holland I just had the exact same issue! Took 4 different companies, but I finally got it fixed ... a week later... next step was to fix it myself! I guess next time I’ll give it a try myself.
Thanks a bunch! Bought a recent fixer upper and the big problem (fingers crossed) was the service line broke 4ft from the house... I knew I could do it but this vid was really encouraging. Thanks for posting!!
Good job! And yes, that is called a service line, not a water main. The water main is the main line that delivers water to your service line. Also, u want to always disinfect the new materials with sodium hypochlorite (bleach). And always FLUSH your at the nearest hose connect before u let the water into your house. But u did a great job! Way to save a bundle!
Also, flushing the line will allow you to not only get any sediment from the repair but also it will flush and force out any air in the line which can also make sure that you don’t get any air hammering on your plumbing line and or prv protection.
I think all house have a background valve with a strainer I know my house does. I believe if u do let junk in ur pipes u can take the strainer out and clean it and purge it a big put it back in and ull be good. Never had to do it on plumbing but had to do it on water source AC units a trillion times
We live in Maine and as you know frost messes with waterlines here just like there in Midwest the frost pushes rocks up and then thaws and chafe s a hole great video thanks for sharing
Been laying pipe for years, and you did a great job. It isn’t a main, Btw. Just a water service, but others than that the compression fittings are the shit when it comes to repairs.
MrWoodshedder just a fun fact for you buddy, since you don’t have a smart meter, and you seem pretty decent with a pipe wrench, if you take the water meter off and flip it around and install it, it runs backwards. The water authority checks meters during business hours, so hypothetically, if one were to install it backwards and do some serious watering over a holiday weekend, they could potentially lessen the financial strain that the assholes at the water authority have imposed on us for years.Just be sure that you don’t run it lower than the number on your last bill. Lol.
can you tell me what size fitting i will need and where i can go to find them. My pipe is the same as this but it doesn't look like 3/4 in. it looks bigger maybe close to 1.5 inch
Excellent job I hope I can find where the leak is exactly for me that seems to be the tricky part. I'd take getting lucky if it means not having to dig up the entire yard or go under the house to find it. I definitely can't pay no 3000 to 4000 dollars for a leak especially if it is as simple as what I saw in this video. I'm glad you created a solution for your system, nice job💪😎💪😉👍😁👌
Good video! I dug mine up and found a big root from a maple tree had damaged the line as grew to draw water from the nearby AC drain. I dug back the root several feet and cut it out. Maybe it will grow in slightly different direction from now on.
Thanks! Didn't know that. I did some searching and didn't find anything that said to open them slowly, but I can't think of a reason not to take an extra few seconds to open slowly to be on the safe side.
@@RiverLifeWV And, once you fully open the valve shut it back a quarter of a turn. Reason is that anyone else moving the valve will know after a quarter turn it will stop (= open) and it obvious which way to then turn off & also stops the valve seizing against to end stop. Had that have been my place (good job BTW) I would have left the hole open for a few days to check it from time to time and a length of plastic drain pipe cut into 2 halves would make a good cover / protection for the pipe repair before bedding the pipe in soft sand.
Jerry, I agree "Sharkbite" or in my repair it was a similar type coupling, brand name LASCO flex coupling. I put the links in the description. In my fix the water line broke underneath the cement sidewalk..Royal pain! to dig down under the cement! ruclips.net/video/1nDwrq6ZQIc/видео.html
I repair lines repaired with shark bites daily, the issue is the metal pieces. They corrode and leak, if you do not have a pex crimp ring tool buy WHITE FLOW CONTROL couplings. I promise shark bites will not last, even if you put tape around them as they recommend.
You made it look and sound easy .Mine has water bubbling up in a hard packed gravel drive ...i just wish i knew that the pipe is down there where its coming up from before i start trying to chisel my way down there ...no way to find the pipe any other way i guess ...right ? This sucks lm an old man and i hate digging ..
Were you able to find those McDonald (or Ford) compression fittings locally or did you have to order them? Nobody here, except the utility district, has them. The utility district won't sell you any either. I found some similar, but didn't have the extra bolted clamp. When I started digging, I found that whoever built this house decided to throw several full packs of shingles and many 2x4 scraps inside the water line trench before burying. It was quite...fun...to dig all this debris out by hand so I could locate the leak. Thanks for making this video. It helped a lot. Saved me hundreds of dollars, no doubt.
I work for water for a large city.. I wish we had more customers like you. Quick question. Did you put any interest in from thoes compression fittings? Just curious
Thanks Joshua! Not sure what you mean though, "put any interest in from thoes compression fittings?" True story...In April, water bill was really high. Fixed a toilet I believed was leaking. Water authority came out and tested and said I still had a leak. Turns out there was another leak in this line, but closer to the house. My water line insurance (taken out after I made this video) paid for the repair. In the process, the line was tested several times, and all the repairs in this video were still solid, even after 7 years or so.
Did this same repair, here we are 2 years later and its leaking at a new spot. Just send a new line in. Especially if it's that recalled poly tube. $3,000 is a fair price, also not hard to do yourself. Rent an excavator and invite a buddy over. Pretty straightforward.
Menard's had 3/4" copper tube size (CTS) poly water pipe 250 PSI, 100 feet, $28. CTS fittings accept CTS poly or copper pipe. A stainless inner sleeve is inserted into the poly pipe. The CTS fittings tighten around that fitting. Menard's sales people haven't heard about CTS pipe. The RUclipsr may have failed to place the inner stainless sleeve inside the pipe which the CTS fitting tightens down around. The last step is to tighten the crimp screw on the fittings. The RUclipsr's fitting may now leak slowly or pop apart. At the top left of the right union the poly looks compressed where it enters the fitting more than it would be with the stainless inner sleeve in place inside the pipe.
+Michael Licitra It seemed to me the pipe should have some kind of support. It looked like they just trenched that sucker in there as quickly as possible with no regard for anything else. Thanks!
Those CTS pack joint fittings will fail over time without the required stainless steel insert inside the pipe ends. They keep the pipe from crushing, and ensure the connection doesn't blow apart. I didn't see it in the video, but did you install those? They are sometimes sold separately.
I did not know about those and the plumbing supply never mentioned them. I don't worry to much now as my power company has insured any future line repairs for 5 bucks a month. :)
I had same issue , I installed the compression coupler and no leaks , but I had water leaking down from the dirt , I wonder if it was from all the water that leaked overnight or I must have another leak down the line , will check in the AM see if there's more water sipping down ..
Got to know to this and save 3K..wonderful. We got to learn plumbing as they cost fortune. I just spent 600 on pin hole in wall behind vanity to a plumber. I think in So California we have big galvanized main pipes, not the blue one?
My other comment/thought - perhaps I can use a low pressure air fitting and an compressor to put air pressure in the line and then dig to the source of the bubbles. I'll have to scratch my head a bit on how to connect the air fittings but it should reduce dig time - especially if you live in a heavy clay area like central KY.
Yes. I deal with this problem a lot as I own a campground in NW PA. I blow the lines out in the fall with compressed air staying below 60 psi, but almost every spring when I turn the water on I have a leak in the ground somewhere. Having air in the line as you dig is very helpful because you can here it, and you don’t have water filling up the hole you’ll need to work in.
I actually did this to locate a leak. I made a fitting I connected to my outside hydrant and a splitter that I connected to an air compressor. Turned on the air compressor and the water at the same time and found my leak
If you are able to do you remember the name or modal number for that piping? Non of my suppliers are able to find it and have no idea what kind of pipe it is. do they even make it anymore. The house was built in 2005.
Have the same problem with my water service line although there is no standing water to assist with a locate. In my case, the meter continues to run even though I've isolated the house at the main shutoff valve. The line runs slightly uphill and I've poked and prodded (to a depth of 3-4') at least a dozen areas over a 75' area but am coming up dry. From observing the meter, I'm losing about 1 gal/min and have had to shut off/on the main several times daily to conserve water. Any other ideas how to locate this break?
Pick up a stick with a fork in it and walk around until it starts spinning in your hand. Then you’ll know you’re in the right place, and, of course, you’ll also know that you’re possessed by a demon. Fix your water problem as quickly as possible and then immediately get to the nearest priest in your area who performs exorcisms, preferably one with plenty of experience, but not too many repeat customers. Try to remember when he starts doing his thing that he is only trying to help, and do your best not to spit on him, as your saliva will have likely turned green by this point and I’m not totally sure but I’d have to assume that it won’t smell too pleasant. Be prepared to suddenly know foreign languages that you’ve never learned and possibly gain the ability to turn your head all the way around and walk on the ceiling, and don’t be alarmed by any of these things happening as they are all perfectly normal occurrences while being exorcized. It would probably be best to remove your shoes prior to the event, though, because ceilings can be quiet difficult to clean. After you are yourself again, thank the priest for his troubles and apologize for cursing him in various ancient languages, and then ask nicely if he would mind sending some holy water back with you for the road. You can never have too much of that stuff in the days following the removal of an evil spirit. Also, you will definitely want to keep a cross on you at all times in the near future, and don’t forget to always have a Bible within reach, if not actually in your hands, until you’re confident that Lucifer has gotten bored of you, and moved on to cause havoc in some other area. if you have a similar problem in the future, avoid using witchcraft to summon the angel of death, and try summoning a plumber instead. Contact multiple companies in your area to find one that’s friendly and knowledgeable, as well as affordable. Tell them Satan sent you 😀 👍🏿
3/4 polly is standard. sometimes you will find 1 inch Polly but it's not common. usually when you find 1 inch it is the service to the house. (the part that tails out of the back of the metter that feeds to the house. 3/4 is commonly coming from the main and is feeding into the angle valve (the valve that stops water from passing through the metter).iv only seen 1 inch a few times going into an angle valve. my point is, if you are repairing the line that feeds your house, you can either run into 1inch Polly or 3/4 polly. depending on how old your house is you could also run into 1inch galvanized pipe which is a motherfucker to fix but it can be done with a philmac coupling, a sawzaw and a little bit of filing.. or you could pay a plumber a fat price and have him run you a new service..
@@RiverLifeWV kinda lol, it must have a small leak now judging by my bill this month. My first leak ended up being 2 and in a very difficult place to get to.
True story... I had another leak in the same line. Was probably leaking for months before we discovered it. Grass was greener, taller, and growing like crazy above the leak and ground was soggier in the area. But it was really hard to tell there was a leak. The best news is that the repair I made years ago (in this video) was still holding strong!
What if there isn’t any waiter coming into the meter or the yard? How do I find the area underground that is leaking? I have already done everything to make sure it is in fact outside leaking so I am guessing it’s a very small leak. But it’s making my bill skyrocket so I have to fix it ASAP and don’t want to pay a plumber a grand to or more. But Because it’s bone dry in my meter and there’s zero standing water in my yard I can’t find the exact area where it’s leaking. Anyone know how to find the area without digging the whole thing up? Is there a moisture tool I can rent or something? Any ideas will help.
@@thomasszary7481 Use the sleeves; even HDPE plastic tubing will distort from the pressure of the fittings and the o-rings will eventually leak. The sleeves are inexpensive, and take but a moment to tap in (sometimes pound in). But once fixed, it stays fixed!
@@RiverLifeWV The HDPE tubing will distort when the fittings are tightened on its exterior unless you put the metal sleeve inserts inside each end of the tubing.
marito242 It’s called a insert or a crush insert...if it didn’t leak when he tightened it it’s going to be ok...that’s just do you don’t crush the pipe when you tighten the brass coupling...he will be fine
My opinion: You never want to leave pipes connections strait in the dirt. For an extra time and same cost one could/should replace the whole line with a sleeved plastic pipe.
Maybe cause the pipe is rolled up when its new so it diddnt want to stay down in the ditch when it first got installed and some geniuass put rocks on it to keep it down! Ask me how i know!😂😂
Friendly reminders 1. It’s a water service 2. You should have replaced the whole Service because there might be more rocks sitting on top of the service 3. The water service should have tape 1ft above it for excavation later on so you know if your close 4. You also don’t want to stop the water pressure until you find the pipe
You may want to check with your water company to get the section of water line. They may have some and they would be jerks if they charged you. Probably give it to you for free.
No steel inserts? It’s gonna leak again if that’s irrigation pipe your supposed to use barbed fittings with clamps and the pipe is supposed to be centered to the middle of those unions when used on the right regulation water pipe again the pipe in the video looks like thin wall irrigation pipe if this is so it’s going to leak again there in the future
Well, it hasn't leaked yet. I followed the specific instructions from the plumbing supply store. Every part, including the line, was what they recommended. And this was not a home depot type store, but a legit plumbing supply house.
You did everything right except for one major thing. Never, and I mean never, turn on a valve that fast!!!! My superintendent just did that and blew 3 holes in an 8” water main off the street and popped off a 4” copper press joint. Turn on/off slowly to let the water fill the pipe first then open it all the way.
Yup!!!!
Good advice! We have very high water pressure here because the water main that serves my property starts at 4000 ft elevation and runs along the dirt switchback roads that descends in elevation for the 2 miles it takes to get to my house which is at 3500 ft. elevation.
My leak isn't this bad, and it's at the base of an outdoor spigot. I don't know what I'm dealing with until I dig it up, but I believe my goats are the culprits! They love to vigorously head but anything sticking out of the ground, such as a metal pipe.
I'm hoping it's just a loose connection, but more than likely I've got a cracked pipe. I'm hoping I can fix it temporarily with epoxy until I can get whatever connectors I'm going to need.
Looks like I'll be digging a hole in my front yard this afternoon! Thanks for the info!
Man, thats a good feeling when ya make a repair and cut the water back on and there are no leaks,,,Winning,,!... Good job,,,
Thanks @boatswain1985. You're not kidding! It was a great feeling, especially knowing how much money I saved myself!
how did you turn off main water line ? do you call utilities to do ? i could not see any shut-off valvel
Siva Kumar it's probably quite late now to answer ur ? But usually homes have two shut off valves that lead to a home 1 is usually right outside your home somewhere near outside the door maybe or near a spigot where you can attach a water hose to and the other which is the main main one its out by the street usually in most cases
Siva Kumar you can call your local utility company to shut off your Main line but you can easily do it yourself with a special tool they usually call it like a T Bar If i remember correctly this guy showed it on his video he didn't actually explain it but he showed it
TheMeddiee
Assuming the water meter is similar to mine (which, it also seems to be similar to the guy's meter that made this video), all you really need is a sturdy pair of 'vice-grip' type pliers.
All you do is take the vice-grip pliers & adjust them so they are able clamp down tightly onto the in/out-flow valve 'dial'.
Then, you'll likely be able to just leave the pliers attached to that dial until the job that is being performed is complete.
On my meter (and I assume all of them), *to turn the water OFF it's about 1/2 turn of the dial clockwise. And of course, to turn on, it's the opposite turn.* :-)
Just my own experience - and I thought I'd share.
I also just want to say a BIG thanks to the guy that made this video. Anything that empowers a homeowner to do more things (and also enabling them to save a bunch of money in the process) that will help his/her family is awesome!
Thanks man!
I've a leak on my property tried to get a plumber many times to come fix it , but they mustn't need the work , Will try and fix it myself thanks to this video .. THANK YOU VERY HELPFULL
Steve Holland I just had the exact same issue! Took 4 different companies, but I finally got it fixed ... a week later... next step was to fix it myself! I guess next time I’ll give it a try myself.
Consider covering the pipe with sand then the dirt to prevent small rocks from resting against the pipe. 👍🏼
instablaster.
Thanks a bunch! Bought a recent fixer upper and the big problem (fingers crossed) was the service line broke 4ft from the house... I knew I could do it but this vid was really encouraging. Thanks for posting!!
Good job! And yes, that is called a service line, not a water main. The water main is the main line that delivers water to your service line. Also, u want to always disinfect the new materials with sodium hypochlorite (bleach). And always FLUSH your at the nearest hose connect before u let the water into your house. But u did a great job! Way to save a bundle!
matthew stiles
Also, flushing the line will allow you to not only get any sediment from the repair but also it will flush and force out any air in the line which can also make sure that you don’t get any air hammering on your plumbing line and or prv protection.
Now, thats spoken like a true water distribution license holer.😁🤷♂️ same
I think all house have a background valve with a strainer I know my house does. I believe if u do let junk in ur pipes u can take the strainer out and clean it and purge it a big put it back in and ull be good. Never had to do it on plumbing but had to do it on water source AC units a trillion times
I meant backflow valve not background
We live in Maine and as you know frost messes with waterlines here just like there in Midwest the frost pushes rocks up and then thaws and chafe s a hole great video thanks for sharing
Been laying pipe for years, and you did a great job. It isn’t a main, Btw. Just a water service, but others than that the compression fittings are the shit when it comes to repairs.
justin Kassel hey thanks Justin! It's still holding, going on 3 years later!
MrWoodshedder just a fun fact for you buddy, since you don’t have a smart meter, and you seem pretty decent with a pipe wrench, if you take the water meter off and flip it around and install it, it runs backwards.
The water authority checks meters during business hours, so hypothetically, if one were to install it backwards and do some serious watering over a holiday weekend, they could potentially lessen the financial strain that the assholes at the water authority have imposed on us for years.Just be sure that you don’t run it lower than the number on your last bill. Lol.
@@justinkassel4000 Like filling up a swimming pool.....
can you tell me what size fitting i will need and where i can go to find them. My pipe is the same as this but it doesn't look like 3/4 in. it looks bigger maybe close to 1.5 inch
3:28 - I had the same problem. Only needed a short piece, but luckily was able to sell the rest at a discount at 75% online.
Excellent job I hope I can find where the leak is exactly for me that seems to be the tricky part. I'd take getting lucky if it means not having to dig up the entire yard or go under the house to find it. I definitely can't pay no 3000 to 4000 dollars for a leak especially if it is as simple as what I saw in this video. I'm glad you created a solution for your system, nice job💪😎💪😉👍😁👌
Thanks! Let us know what happens!
That is a very good suggestion about using the meter to pressure test the service line.
Good video! I dug mine up and found a big root from a maple tree had damaged the line as grew to draw water from the nearby AC drain. I dug back the root several feet and cut it out. Maybe it will grow in slightly different direction from now on.
Take insurance out if it looks like you may have future problems.
YOU ABSOLUTE MAD MAN! Opening a gate valve that quickly is truly living the Adrenalin life, living on the edge.
Thanks! Didn't know that. I did some searching and didn't find anything that said to open them slowly, but I can't think of a reason not to take an extra few seconds to open slowly to be on the safe side.
@@RiverLifeWV And, once you fully open the valve shut it back a quarter of a turn. Reason is that anyone else moving the valve will know after a quarter turn it will stop (= open) and it obvious which way to then turn off & also stops the valve seizing against to end stop.
Had that have been my place (good job BTW) I would have left the hole open for a few days to check it from time to time and a length of plastic drain pipe cut into 2 halves would make a good cover / protection for the pipe repair before bedding the pipe in soft sand.
I have a meter leak at street? Utilities said it was our place to fix.After watching this doesn't look so bad. Where going to try it.Good video
I really appreciate the video and the tips from you on how to fix this pipe. Thanks sooo much!!😋❤️
I made this same repair with sharkbite fittings. Also Home Depot had 3 ft sections of 3/4" blue pipe for about $5.
Jerry, I agree "Sharkbite" or in my repair it was a similar type coupling, brand name LASCO flex coupling. I put the links in the description. In my fix the water line broke underneath the cement sidewalk..Royal pain! to dig down under the cement! ruclips.net/video/1nDwrq6ZQIc/видео.html
I repair lines repaired with shark bites daily, the issue is the metal pieces. They corrode and leak, if you do not have a pex crimp ring tool buy WHITE FLOW CONTROL couplings. I promise shark bites will not last, even if you put tape around them as they recommend.
I will be happy to find the leak and pay someone to do the fix. I'm just not anxious to replace the service line.
thanks for posting
Awesome! Great job doing it yourself! 👏🏻
You made it look and sound easy .Mine has water bubbling up in a hard packed gravel drive ...i just wish i knew that the pipe is down there where its coming up from before i start trying to chisel my way down there ...no way to find the pipe any other way i guess ...right ? This sucks lm an old man and i hate digging ..
Thanks for the video. do these fittings work on soft copper pipe?
do we need to block the main sewage first? in order to make way for the water to spread?
Were you able to find those McDonald (or Ford) compression fittings locally or did you have to order them? Nobody here, except the utility district, has them. The utility district won't sell you any either. I found some similar, but didn't have the extra bolted clamp.
When I started digging, I found that whoever built this house decided to throw several full packs of shingles and many 2x4 scraps inside the water line trench before burying. It was quite...fun...to dig all this debris out by hand so I could locate the leak.
Thanks for making this video. It helped a lot. Saved me hundreds of dollars, no doubt.
Fittings were at our local plumbing supply shop.
I work for water for a large city.. I wish we had more customers like you. Quick question. Did you put any interest in from thoes compression fittings? Just curious
Thanks Joshua! Not sure what you mean though, "put any interest in from thoes compression fittings?"
True story...In April, water bill was really high. Fixed a toilet I believed was leaking. Water authority came out and tested and said I still had a leak. Turns out there was another leak in this line, but closer to the house. My water line insurance (taken out after I made this video) paid for the repair. In the process, the line was tested several times, and all the repairs in this video were still solid, even after 7 years or so.
@@RiverLifeWV yeah, metal insert you slide into thee ends of the Polly pipe o the compression fittings have something solid to tighten up on
@@3232jrob no, nothing but the compression fittings.
You saved me a load of money
Awesome! Feels good to fix it yourself!
Did this same repair, here we are 2 years later and its leaking at a new spot. Just send a new line in. Especially if it's that recalled poly tube. $3,000 is a fair price, also not hard to do yourself. Rent an excavator and invite a buddy over. Pretty straightforward.
Cool looking couplings, great job on the fix and saving some 💲💲
Using a wet/dry vacuum to remove water from the hole works great.
You can use standard PVC. U can buy just a for for cheap. As long as its the same diameter. The fittings will work the same.
We have same problem but don't know what diameter of water pipe we are using... How to figure it out?
That's the best
Menard's had 3/4" copper tube size (CTS) poly water pipe 250 PSI, 100 feet, $28. CTS fittings accept CTS poly or copper pipe. A stainless inner sleeve is inserted into the poly pipe. The CTS fittings tighten around that fitting. Menard's sales people haven't heard about CTS pipe. The RUclipsr may have failed to place the inner stainless sleeve inside the pipe which the CTS fitting tightens down around. The last step is to tighten the crimp screw on the fittings. The RUclipsr's fitting may now leak slowly or pop apart. At the top left of the right union the poly looks compressed where it enters the fitting more than it would be with the stainless inner sleeve in place inside the pipe.
What is the name of this pipe
Good job. Those rocks will do it every time. The pipe should have been bedded in sand before covering when it was originally installed.
+Michael Licitra It seemed to me the pipe should have some kind of support. It looked like they just trenched that sucker in there as quickly as possible with no regard for anything else. Thanks!
Michael Licitra cartoon
Awesome job, hardest part was digging the hole right?
Yeah dude..!
3:47 and the model of these items and names are? whats the name of the blue pipe u bought and what size is it
I have an 1 1/4 inch pipe, where can we find those fittings please?
Check a plumbing supply store or a home depot or lowes.
Those CTS pack joint fittings will fail over time without the required stainless steel insert inside the pipe ends. They keep the pipe from crushing, and ensure the connection doesn't blow apart. I didn't see it in the video, but did you install those? They are sometimes sold separately.
I did not know about those and the plumbing supply never mentioned them. I don't worry to much now as my power company has insured any future line repairs for 5 bucks a month. :)
You need stainless steel sleeves inserted to the ends of the pipe, otherwise the brass fitting will crush the plastic pipe
They are called "stiffeners" but yes you are correct.. he will be digging it back up eventually
In Texas we just Pex fittings and crimp rings
I had same issue , I installed the compression coupler and no leaks , but I had water leaking down from the dirt , I wonder if it was from all the water that leaked overnight or I must have another leak down the line , will check in the AM see if there's more water sipping down ..
I got an estimate this week to fix my water line. $4200. I started digging. Four ft later I have it open. Now going to patch it.
Yes sir! That's how it's done! If you find that it was installed in a way that makes you concerned, take insurance out on it after you fix it.
How'd you get the water out
I scooped it out with a big 32oz plastic cup.
What's the name of that part, I cannot find it anywhere.
Which part?
Hey does anyone know what that fitting is called thank you
Thank you
I wish you put the materlias specific in description.thanka for the vid
Me too. When I made the video, I had no idea it would be so popular.
Just look up PEX pipe adapters & fitting's.
You should have insulated the pipe from the beginning and did you use a potable jointing compound ?
You need to wrap the fittings with silicone tape to prevent corrosion of the brass fittings.
Good idea. Thanks!
Thanks for the video!
Got to know to this and save 3K..wonderful.
We got to learn plumbing as they cost fortune. I just spent 600 on pin hole in wall behind vanity to a plumber.
I think in So California we have big galvanized main pipes, not the blue one?
That is great! Glad to help!
My other comment/thought - perhaps I can use a low pressure air fitting and an compressor to put air pressure in the line and then dig to the source of the bubbles. I'll have to scratch my head a bit on how to connect the air fittings but it should reduce dig time - especially if you live in a heavy clay area like central KY.
Yes. I deal with this problem a lot as I own a campground in NW PA. I blow the lines out in the fall with compressed air staying below 60 psi, but almost every spring when I turn the water on I have a leak in the ground somewhere. Having air in the line as you dig is very helpful because you can here it, and you don’t have water filling up the hole you’ll need to work in.
I actually did this to locate a leak. I made a fitting I connected to my outside hydrant and a splitter that I connected to an air compressor. Turned on the air compressor and the water at the same time and found my leak
Thank you. QUick and easy.
How did you drain the water from the hole?
With a 5 gallon bucket :)
If you are able to do you remember the name or modal number for that piping? Non of my suppliers are able to find it and have no idea what kind of pipe it is. do they even make it anymore. The house was built in 2005.
Have the same problem with my water service line although there is no standing water to assist with a locate. In my case, the meter continues to run even though I've isolated the house at the main shutoff valve. The line runs slightly uphill and I've poked and prodded (to a depth of 3-4') at least a dozen areas over a 75' area but am coming up dry. From observing the meter, I'm losing about 1 gal/min and have had to shut off/on the main several times daily to conserve water. Any other ideas how to locate this break?
Pick up a stick with a fork in it and walk around until it starts spinning in your hand. Then you’ll know you’re in the right place, and, of course, you’ll also know that you’re possessed by a demon. Fix your water problem as quickly as possible and then immediately get to the nearest priest in your area who performs exorcisms, preferably one with plenty of experience, but not too many repeat customers. Try to remember when he starts doing his thing that he is only trying to help, and do your best not to spit on him, as your saliva will have likely turned green by this point and I’m not totally sure but I’d have to assume that it won’t smell too pleasant. Be prepared to suddenly know foreign languages that you’ve never learned and possibly gain the ability to turn your head all the way around and walk on the ceiling, and don’t be alarmed by any of these things happening as they are all perfectly normal occurrences while being exorcized. It would probably be best to remove your shoes prior to the event, though, because ceilings can be quiet difficult to clean. After you are yourself again, thank the priest for his troubles and apologize for cursing him in various ancient languages, and then ask nicely if he would mind sending some holy water back with you for the road. You can never have too much of that stuff in the days following the removal of an evil spirit. Also, you will definitely want to keep a cross on you at all times in the near future, and don’t forget to always have a Bible within reach, if not actually in your hands, until you’re confident that Lucifer has gotten bored of you, and moved on to cause havoc in some other area. if you have a similar problem in the future, avoid using witchcraft to summon the angel of death, and try summoning a plumber instead. Contact multiple companies in your area to find one that’s friendly and knowledgeable, as well as affordable. Tell them Satan sent you 😀 👍🏿
What about that metal piece that goes inside the end of the plastic pipe? So that brass fitting doesn't crush the plastic pipe? Asking for a friend😬
Plumbing shop didn't recommend so I didn't use one. Still no leaks 7 years later 😉
This happened to me back in August 1st and I had to pay $1000 just to get this fixed and also fix the Water Pressure Regulator.
Sorry to hear that!
You should have used stainless steel inserts inside the tubing before tightening compression couplings.
Very good point!
My water main leak appears to be percolating through the joint between my front porch stairs and the sidewalk. I'm bumming out right now.
Not fun!
I wish you talked about the diameter size on the pipe and fittings. Just curious if 1" inch is standard of 3/4" inch is.
Charles Brown I don't know which size is standard. Sorry.
3/4 polly is standard. sometimes you will find 1 inch Polly but it's not common. usually when you find 1 inch it is the service to the house. (the part that tails out of the back of the metter that feeds to the house. 3/4 is commonly coming from the main and is feeding into the angle valve (the valve that stops water from passing through the metter).iv only seen 1 inch a few times going into an angle valve. my point is, if you are repairing the line that feeds your house, you can either run into 1inch Polly or 3/4 polly. depending on how old your house is you could also run into 1inch galvanized pipe which is a motherfucker to fix but it can be done with a philmac coupling, a sawzaw and a little bit of filing.. or you could pay a plumber a fat price and have him run you a new service..
Good job man!
Thanks Jose!
Great job
I live in WV too and just woke up to a small geyser by my porch...
Did you get it fixed?
@@RiverLifeWV kinda lol, it must have a small leak now judging by my bill this month. My first leak ended up being 2 and in a very difficult place to get to.
This video so helpful.
Seeing this… i wonder how many major overlooked leaks are going on.. and how could that not be called or create a sink hole
True story... I had another leak in the same line. Was probably leaking for months before we discovered it. Grass was greener, taller, and growing like crazy above the leak and ground was soggier in the area. But it was really hard to tell there was a leak. The best news is that the repair I made years ago (in this video) was still holding strong!
you are doing well !
Thanks!
what is the part you used called
Which part?
What if there isn’t any waiter coming into the meter or the yard? How do I find the area underground that is leaking? I have already done everything to make sure it is in fact outside leaking so I am guessing it’s a very small leak. But it’s making my bill skyrocket so I have to fix it ASAP and don’t want to pay a plumber a grand to or more. But Because it’s bone dry in my meter and there’s zero standing water in my yard I can’t find the exact area where it’s leaking. Anyone know how to find the area without digging the whole thing up? Is there a moisture tool I can rent or something? Any ideas will help.
Is that pipe pex ???
What if you have poly piping on the service line? The house has no poly but the service line does. They didn't disclose that. Is that fixable?
they make shark bit fittings that go from polybutylene to copper pipe size
is that pex the one that is broken /
I'm not sure what you are asking?
@@RiverLifeWVhe thinks the blue poly pipe is pex pipe.
My blue pipe labeled AWWA C902, really hard to find !
Good job.
You forgot to put line stiffeners inside the pipe
Not according to the plumbing supply house.
You don't need stiffies for pex that new blue stiff is pretty thick. I do this every day. Never used it.
@@RiverLifeWV ya I bet they will sell you whatever they can.
@@thomasszary7481 Use the sleeves; even HDPE plastic tubing will distort from the pressure of the fittings and the o-rings will eventually leak. The sleeves are inexpensive, and take but a moment to tap in (sometimes pound in). But once fixed, it stays fixed!
I wish the water lines where I lived were only 3ft down.😂
Fuck me, its 6ft where im from in Canada.
@@Sunny15511 8ft here in Winnipeg mostly.
That’s because you live in the frozen north country.
its been 5 years. have those fitting started leaking yet? you should get pex crimp ring with a collar. less opportunity for leaking
After 5 years, everything is still good. I made the repair exactly as the plumbing shop told me to.
What about the metal sleeves inside all the plastic tubing?
I'm not sure what you are talking about?
@@RiverLifeWV The HDPE tubing will distort when the fittings are tightened on its exterior unless you put the metal sleeve inserts inside each end of the tubing.
Good 👍 job.😎😎😎😎😎
I paid way too much for what looks like a 100 job....never again. Thank you!
Glad I could help
I'm a licensed plumber I hope you people watching this seeing extra work he put himself through by not knowing and guessing
Still cheaper than hiring someone
There should have been a insert that slips in to the end of the pipe also so the fitting can be tightened down for the poly pipe I have seen
Thanks Bud. The fitting was installed to the specifications as detailed by the plumbing supply store.
NP they should have known
MrWoodshedder guys in the store lost of times doesn't know , sleeves are a must, hope you are not digging again in a few
Here is a video from a manufacturer on the proper installation of a mac-pac coupler: advance to 3m40sec
ruclips.net/video/Und2qtnHwgE/видео.html
marito242 It’s called a insert or a crush insert...if it didn’t leak when he tightened it it’s going to be ok...that’s just do you don’t crush the pipe when you tighten the brass coupling...he will be fine
Jaki jest koszt tych złączek? W Polsce za złączki PE wyszło by z 5 USD
My opinion: You never want to leave pipes connections strait in the dirt.
For an extra time and same cost one could/should replace the whole line with a sleeved plastic pipe.
How deep did you dig to get to water line
About 2 feet
Did you use any glue for your fittings?
Chase Moore no I did not use any glue.
He used poly with compression fitting no GLUE
Good job
u can use two "3/4" pvc collar also.
That meter’s toast time for a new one
I'd be curious as to how those stones got into the hole (or just that spot) and then on top of the line...
Maybe cause the pipe is rolled up when its new so it diddnt want to stay down in the ditch when it first got installed and some geniuass put rocks on it to keep it down! Ask me how i know!😂😂
We use schedule 40 pvc underground and pex inside the house.
I would of done it with the coupling by its self
Friendly reminders
1. It’s a water service
2. You should have replaced the whole Service because there might be more rocks sitting on top of the service
3. The water service should have tape 1ft above it for excavation later on so you know if your close
4. You also don’t want to stop the water pressure until you find the pipe
Thanks! I have insurance now on the service line for 5 bucks a month :)
I use brass compression couplings and PEX to fix a feed
I would have put a plastic shield around the pipe.
You may want to check with your water company to get the section of water line. They may have some and they would be jerks if they charged you. Probably give it to you for free.
Thanks a lot !!!
3000 dollar job my ass, really good share
I hate those ford fittings with the washers and lock nuts the mueller compression fittings are much better
That pipe always breaks off at the fittings.
Damage was longer than thr coupling, could s been. Possible maybe ,ya good eye mate
No steel inserts? It’s gonna leak again if that’s irrigation pipe your supposed to use barbed fittings with clamps and the pipe is supposed to be centered to the middle of those unions when used on the right regulation water pipe again the pipe in the video looks like thin wall irrigation pipe if this is so it’s going to leak again there in the future
Well, it hasn't leaked yet. I followed the specific instructions from the plumbing supply store. Every part, including the line, was what they recommended. And this was not a home depot type store, but a legit plumbing supply house.
Those Rock look like they were place there on purpose