Good fix, Ted. I admire how you explain what you are doing, it is beneficial to the young techs . I am retired, but love watching your videos. Stay safe out there !
Those clock chimes were telling old Ted it's time to pack up and go. Lennox made a furnace years ago that had a solid metal door like that enclosing the blower assembly.
the nest charges the battery by turning the system off and turn it back on all the time give it time it will start to mess up when it's on heavy load and you are the best Ted
I've seen Nest thermostats act funny when the equipment is changed out . It's almost like it programs it self to the resistance of the old equipment board.
Years ago I installed two Nest thermostats in my house. Looks like you experienced the same issues I experienced. I called Nest support and they asked me to connect one of the unused wires at both ends. As I recall, I was having issues with battery charging and running the blower manually. Once the extra wire was connected, everything has worked normally.
My understanding with these boards is that it’s a ROM issue. Those chips on the board are cheap and they degrade quickly especially if you got dirty power coming in or in large communities where you get large voltage variations depending on load of other homes. It causes the ROM to degrade and it begins energizing certain legs on the board at random. These ROM chips are also integrated with other components which in turn causes false code execution due to improper electrical flow from degrading components. It’s really just a cream of the crop deal on these boards.
Thanks for this video. It is unfortunate that I am a DIY-er. Ted could put a link to his donation or payment site and collect some internet consulting money from people like us. He is generous to give trade secrets and experience through the video format. I am concerned I have the same issue with a bad board- E04 present but full continuity through the flame rollout circuit, and main thermal limit checks out. I do not see 24v at the transformer and I get intermittent beeping from continuity check when the transformer is energized. Going to check with a 24v power supply as it seems the ifc board would control the 24vdc input from transformer, and that the xformer is bad rather than the board... Cheers to the pros who know
I've noticed a lot earlier Nest stats failing when wired without a common. Was told it was from how it charged its internal battery or something and it wears out the unit. The newer ones are better designed i guess so its not as much of an issue but i always run a common if i can. I also just try and stay away from Nest in general though.
I agree with you Ken. A couple of years ago, I had the pleasure of replacing one under the Nest warranty, did not know how to set it up. I called tech support, and the guy was great. He even told me about things that this thermostat is capable of. I was very impressed. But am glad that I no longer have to worry about it, retired.
Bob Gallo I’m 18 with no HVAC experience and I’ve installed and set up 4 Nest thermostats with no problems whatsoever. There does need to be a common wire or else certain systems will interpret the thermostat “borrowing” power as a call to run.
yes blue wire, I have found the fan will not energize in a/c without common wire hooked up. over and over I see it on all brands , or the fan starts and stops
I'm going to repeat this idea again cuz I've done this in the past on changing system board, if you got a system board in your hand and you unplug the connector why don't you just plug it into the board you're going to install since it's just going to hang there right off the weight of the cable as you really reach cable plug it into the new board when you're on. Done plugging the board, and you squeeze off the stand-offs to unlock the board and just push your new board right on top of it and connect your thermostat wires! How difficult is that?
Can this furnace be installed in a horizontal position with a downflow flue adapter installed..I need my flue to come out the return end of the furnace but furnace installed in horizontal position.
I have the same type furnace design. Directly below the low voltage coil ... it is MISSING the Power Factor Correction Choke coil required to realign the Voltage and Amperage sine waves for ECM Motors. ECM Motors are Amperage HUNGRY and will Cook everything trying to draw power as amperage leads vomtage. Look for connection terminals on the board and contact Trane for the coil. See the 4 screw holes in a square directly below the low voltage coil? That is where it gets mounted. How do you verify Power Factor? I got a handy little meter on Ebay item PZEM-022. Power Factor should be 0.90 to 0.95. Using the meter will help verify if problem is Solved... or EXPECT TO KEEP BURNING OUT MOTORS AND/OR BOARDS. This applies to ALL ECM Motor installations AND Split Capacitor motors and boards. When I installed a Choke coil.... my amperage DROPPED on a 1/2 HP ECM Motor from 6.5 amps to 4.5 Amps. Significant power draw reduction because of the realigned sinewaves and the overall Math for providing CLEAN POWER. Perfect power factor is unity 1.0 but you Risk over correction with power transients... so 0.90 to 0.95 is the Target. Same type power Factor correction can also be done for Split Capacitor motors but typically done differently by installing a Run Capacitor across the Live and Netural power leads. Try different capacitors until you achieve the 0.90 to 0.95 target. Reduce power draw. Reduce amperage draw. Protect equipment. That little meter SAVED my system at both the condensing unit and furnace to make these corrections. US Motors Engineering Department was also part of my resources to figure out and verify all of this after coming across the info in my research. Do yourself a favor... get a Power Factor meter or perhaps you have one already in your tool kit ... Verify it and Fix it. You can also use a combination of Choke Coil to the ECM motor Live power feed or the board on an ECM Motor Retrofit and then additionally Add a Run Capacitor such as 10 Microfarad in my case across the live and Neutral power to further correct and fine tune it. Run capacitor across power feed terminals will also help soak up power surges. Hope this helps everyone.
@@TedCookHVAC I would still check the Power Factor. 0.90 to 0.95 is target for Reduced Amperage draw on High Speed. PSC motor can be corrected with Run Capacitor place between Live and Neutral power supply. A bit of Trial and Error until corrected. Everything will run Cooler with reduced Amperage draw which you will see before and after. However... that furnace was clearly setup for an ECM Motor because of the connectors, mounting position for Choke coil below low voltage transformer, etc. I have my personal home that I upgraded from PSC to Rescue Ecotech ECM which is why this originally came up when my Amperage draw was Exceeding Manuf spec. I already had the power Factor meter installed because it provided me instantaneous monitoring of what was going on with my system for all aspects of power delivery and usage. My rental property on the other hand has the Trane furnace like in your video with an ECM Motor which is why I knew where the choke coil SHOULD BE after looking at it earlier in the day Sunday Nov 1 when I was installing an Intermatic Surge Protector on it. I still need check the power Factor to verify no issues ... ran out of time Sunday afternoon and waiting for some other parts to return and continue where I left off next weekend.
Mine is acting kind of similar. The inducer motor comes on call for heat. Burners light and go off after 5 seconds. Main blower comes on then it kicks off and start cycle restarts. Second try every time the burner stays lit. When the burner shuts off after the first start cycle I get E04 code. So after furnace has been sitting idle for a while and everything is cold, it acts this way every time. If the tech is trying to duplicate the issue it doesn't act up because the furnace is already warned up. They have cleaned and adjusted flame sensor, adjusted gas valve pressure, and still can't figure it out. It's a 1 year old Runtru Trane and has done this from the beginning of install. Hopefully someone can shed some light on what the issue is. I just want this fixed.
Some boards will not operate with current stealing Tstats or old-style heat anticipators. If possible use the green wire if no common wire is practical. The blower will operate without it on newer furnaces. I'm not sure about nest because I always had a spare wire for the common
More times than not I’ve found that if a board displays an error code immediately after restarting a furnace at the power switch, then the board is bad.
i work with a lot of communicating trane units in south florida, but i gotta ask. are you guys having issues with refrigerant leak and coil resitrictions on these newer trane units. we are changing out coils left and right. when dont use gas heat down here just wondering if leaks are a big issue for you guys. thanx
I had 2 Frigidaire gas furnaces that would not fire by using my jumper wire to test the furnace would only fire when I turned it on at the stat. Just exhaust motor would continually run. Have you ever had that Ted?
Something doesn't seem right about that, the thermostat makes the same connection as the jumpers do. The thermostat is just a switch that closes R and W.
Raypak/Rheem model H3-0090R hot water heater furnace we spent $1,000s dollars to repair it and still Rheem technician does not know why the boiler is not activating the when the air temperature is below the thermostat settings? The technician tells us to replace the whole boiler for 4 to $5,000.00. Too bad we don't have smart troubleshooting technicians like yourself in Vancouver, BC Canada. When we depress the brown modules (circled area) furnace activates for 1 to 5minute before deactivation the furnace. drive.google.com/file/d/1-a-s841Wq926lM37iVCkNi6e3WzYQm0q/view?usp=sharing
Not sure why you wasted time on trying to fault find the roll out circuit - was there 24V at the roll out input on the board ?? - yes there was - replace the board - that diagnosis should have taken someone like you less time than the time taken having the conversation with Mary Ann. Fountain pen / BIC / biro who cares what it is called only a fool would link the term for a writing instrument to 'age' someone else - I have used the 'hollowed' out fountain pen idea for years on PCB's that use those kind of stand offs.
I suggest pausing your video if you're going to take a phone call as that disrupts the flow of the video and not too many people want to going to listen to the whole jibber-jabber of the entire phone call
![[DOKKAN BATTLE] Worldwide Campaign Announcement Video Part 2!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JpT5Voak6WA/mqdefault.jpg)
The customer interaction on the phone was great. I always enjoy seeing how others have interactions.
That's also considered as a helicopter customer. It's often that a "bad" customer can only be considered a helicopter customer.
Kindof unprofessional to record and upload the whole conversation.
Good fix, Ted. I admire how you explain what you are doing, it is beneficial to the young techs . I am retired, but love watching your videos. Stay safe out there !
Those clock chimes were telling old Ted it's time to pack up and go.
Lennox made a furnace years ago that had a solid metal door like that enclosing the blower assembly.
Hey Shannon, are you going to make any more videos anytime soon?
Ted is the only guy I know who takes his shoes off in the attic. Lol
the nest charges the battery by turning the system off and turn it back on all the time give it time it will start to mess up when it's on heavy load and you are the best Ted
I've seen Nest thermostats act funny when the equipment is changed out . It's almost like it programs it self to the resistance of the old equipment board.
The older models definitely did perform some kind of a check to see how much current they could "steal".
Years ago I installed two Nest thermostats in my house. Looks like you experienced the same issues I experienced. I called Nest support and they asked me to connect one of the unused wires at both ends. As I recall, I was having issues with battery charging and running the blower manually. Once the extra wire was connected, everything has worked normally.
That would be setting up a common connection between all the thermostats regardless of their make or manufacture
My understanding with these boards is that it’s a ROM issue. Those chips on the board are cheap and they degrade quickly especially if you got dirty power coming in or in large communities where you get large voltage variations depending on load of other homes. It causes the ROM to degrade and it begins energizing certain legs on the board at random.
These ROM chips are also integrated with other components which in turn causes false code execution due to improper electrical flow from degrading components. It’s really just a cream of the crop deal on these boards.
A new unit and it already needs a new board? That's not very good quality
Not really. There can always be manufacturing defects that are not apparent until the furnace/board has had power to it for a few days.
Stuff happens sometimes though no matter the brand
That can happen with any system,regardless of manufacturer
Thanks for this video. It is unfortunate that I am a DIY-er. Ted could put a link to his donation or payment site and collect some internet consulting money from people like us. He is generous to give trade secrets and experience through the video format.
I am concerned I have the same issue with a bad board- E04 present but full continuity through the flame rollout circuit, and main thermal limit checks out. I do not see 24v at the transformer and I get intermittent beeping from continuity check when the transformer is energized. Going to check with a 24v power supply as it seems the ifc board would control the 24vdc input from transformer, and that the xformer is bad rather than the board...
Cheers to the pros who know
The soft spoken HVAC detective solves the case of a faulty control board in a new (can't stop a) Trane.
Johnstone supply sells a tool to get control board to pop off of those standouts.
I just bought a new house and I saw it has a nest. I will be changing that very soon!
Best thing you can do is throw the Nest t-stat in the garbage can, and get a regular Honeywell programmable thermostat that is designed for the unit.
I've noticed a lot earlier Nest stats failing when wired without a common. Was told it was from how it charged its internal battery or something and it wears out the unit. The newer ones are better designed i guess so its not as much of an issue but i always run a common if i can. I also just try and stay away from Nest in general though.
I agree with you Ken. A couple of years ago, I had the pleasure of replacing one under the Nest warranty, did not know how to set it up. I called tech support, and the guy was great. He even told me about things that this thermostat is capable of. I was very impressed. But am glad that I no longer have to worry about it, retired.
Bob Gallo I’m 18 with no HVAC experience and I’ve installed and set up 4 Nest thermostats with no problems whatsoever. There does need to be a common wire or else certain systems will interpret the thermostat “borrowing” power as a call to run.
yes blue wire, I have found the fan will not energize in a/c without common wire hooked up. over and over I see it on all brands , or the fan starts and stops
What new house,lets see
Thx Ted. Sounds more like a garbage disposal.
Hi,now you guys need to carry a lap top on the job.Do you send back the boards for repair
I'm going to repeat this idea again cuz I've done this in the past on changing system board,
if you got a system board in your hand and you unplug the connector
why don't you just plug it into the board you're going to install since it's just going to hang there right off the weight of the cable
as you really reach cable plug it into the new board when you're on. Done plugging the board,
and you squeeze off the stand-offs to unlock the board
and just push your new board right on top of it and connect your thermostat wires!
How difficult is that?
Are those splinter proof socks ?
What a great job !
Can this furnace be installed in a horizontal position with a downflow flue adapter installed..I need my flue to come out the return end of the furnace but furnace installed in horizontal position.
I have the same type furnace design. Directly below the low voltage coil ... it is MISSING the Power Factor Correction Choke coil required to realign the Voltage and Amperage sine waves for ECM Motors. ECM Motors are Amperage HUNGRY and will Cook everything trying to draw power as amperage leads vomtage. Look for connection terminals on the board and contact Trane for the coil. See the 4 screw holes in a square directly below the low voltage coil? That is where it gets mounted. How do you verify Power Factor? I got a handy little meter on Ebay item PZEM-022. Power Factor should be 0.90 to 0.95. Using the meter will help verify if problem is Solved... or EXPECT TO KEEP BURNING OUT MOTORS AND/OR BOARDS. This applies to ALL ECM Motor installations AND Split Capacitor motors and boards. When I installed a Choke coil.... my amperage DROPPED on a 1/2 HP ECM Motor from 6.5 amps to 4.5 Amps. Significant power draw reduction because of the realigned sinewaves and the overall Math for providing CLEAN POWER. Perfect power factor is unity 1.0 but you Risk over correction with power transients... so 0.90 to 0.95 is the Target. Same type power Factor correction can also be done for Split Capacitor motors but typically done differently by installing a Run Capacitor across the Live and Netural power leads. Try different capacitors until you achieve the 0.90 to 0.95 target. Reduce power draw. Reduce amperage draw. Protect equipment. That little meter SAVED my system at both the condensing unit and furnace to make these corrections. US Motors Engineering Department was also part of my resources to figure out and verify all of this after coming across the info in my research. Do yourself a favor... get a Power Factor meter or perhaps you have one already in your tool kit ... Verify it and Fix it. You can also use a combination of Choke Coil to the ECM motor Live power feed or the board on an ECM Motor Retrofit and then additionally Add a Run Capacitor such as 10 Microfarad in my case across the live and Neutral power to further correct and fine tune it. Run capacitor across power feed terminals will also help soak up power surges. Hope this helps everyone.
This furnace does not have an ECM blower motor. It has the original PSC motor.
@@TedCookHVAC I would still check the Power Factor. 0.90 to 0.95 is target for Reduced Amperage draw on High Speed. PSC motor can be corrected with Run Capacitor place between Live and Neutral power supply. A bit of Trial and Error until corrected. Everything will run Cooler with reduced Amperage draw which you will see before and after. However... that furnace was clearly setup for an ECM Motor because of the connectors, mounting position for Choke coil below low voltage transformer, etc. I have my personal home that I upgraded from PSC to Rescue Ecotech ECM which is why this originally came up when my Amperage draw was Exceeding Manuf spec. I already had the power Factor meter installed because it provided me instantaneous monitoring of what was going on with my system for all aspects of power delivery and usage. My rental property on the other hand has the Trane furnace like in your video with an ECM Motor which is why I knew where the choke coil SHOULD BE after looking at it earlier in the day Sunday Nov 1 when I was installing an Intermatic Surge Protector on it. I still need check the power Factor to verify no issues ... ran out of time Sunday afternoon and waiting for some other parts to return and continue where I left off next weekend.
Mine is acting kind of similar. The inducer motor comes on call for heat. Burners light and go off after 5 seconds. Main blower comes on then it kicks off and start cycle restarts. Second try every time the burner stays lit. When the burner shuts off after the first start cycle I get E04 code. So after furnace has been sitting idle for a while and everything is cold, it acts this way every time. If the tech is trying to duplicate the issue it doesn't act up because the furnace is already warned up. They have cleaned and adjusted flame sensor, adjusted gas valve pressure, and still can't figure it out. It's a 1 year old Runtru Trane and has done this from the beginning of install. Hopefully someone can shed some light on what the issue is. I just want this fixed.
My Nest kicked in the fan all the time to charge until I got common hooked up.
Yes sir that nest wouldn’t be on my wall
Some boards will not operate with current stealing Tstats or old-style heat anticipators. If possible use the green wire if no common wire is practical. The blower will operate without it on newer furnaces. I'm not sure about nest because I always had a spare wire for the common
Nice shoes ted!
🤭 🤭 🤭
Why is y and y2 jumped on the board? A S8B1 can not support y2
More times than not I’ve found that if a board displays an error code immediately after restarting a furnace at the power switch, then the board is bad.
i work with a lot of communicating trane units in south florida, but i gotta ask. are you guys having issues with refrigerant leak and coil resitrictions on these newer trane units. we are changing out coils left and right. when dont use gas heat down here just wondering if leaks are a big issue for you guys. thanx
2019 was a bad year for TEM coils especially.
Great work!
I had 2 Frigidaire gas furnaces that would not fire by using my jumper wire to test the furnace would only fire when I turned it on at the stat. Just exhaust motor would continually run. Have you ever had that Ted?
Something doesn't seem right about that, the thermostat makes the same connection as the jumpers do. The thermostat is just a switch that closes R and W.
What were you jumpering? Did you disconnect the tstat while you were jumping
Ted were did you get your van with the side access panels?
It is called a Chevy Access van.
No destruction of a nest thermostat in this video?! I am disappointed
I am getting code TP1 what does rhat mean?
Great job and video
What does the error code IDL mean I'm getting that code
Please get a better mic. Half of the time I can't hear you
What kind of light is that?
NEBO
What's up friends
👍👍👍💯
Those black relays are problem sum in electronics. Always the weakest link... Designed to fail
I don't push crap stats. Stick to White Roger, Honeywell if you cannot talk them out of wireless. KISS.
Raypak/Rheem model H3-0090R hot water heater furnace we spent $1,000s dollars to repair it and still Rheem technician does not know why the boiler is not activating the when the air temperature is below the thermostat settings? The technician tells us to replace the whole boiler for 4 to $5,000.00. Too bad we don't have smart troubleshooting technicians like yourself in Vancouver, BC Canada. When we depress the brown modules (circled area) furnace activates for 1 to 5minute before deactivation the furnace. drive.google.com/file/d/1-a-s841Wq926lM37iVCkNi6e3WzYQm0q/view?usp=sharing
What is that aweful rattling noise
Gotta love people who think they have to shout into the phone to make it work.
#130 thumbs uP
Not sure why you wasted time on trying to fault find the roll out circuit - was there 24V at the roll out input on the board ?? - yes there was - replace the board - that diagnosis should have taken someone like you less time than the time taken having the conversation with Mary Ann. Fountain pen / BIC / biro who cares what it is called only a fool would link the term for a writing instrument to 'age' someone else - I have used the 'hollowed' out fountain pen idea for years on PCB's that use those kind of stand offs.
Mumbles Mumbles
Nest work just fine with Green, yellow, red and white only. No common required.
Sometimes it robs power from R and it won’t jump out to the Y full 24v. Also I’ve seen them lose charge. It’s annoying.
emerson has always been a crap shoot company! just saying!
I suggest pausing your video if you're going to take a phone call as that disrupts the flow of the video and not too many people want to going to listen to the whole jibber-jabber of the entire phone call
I liked it
Different strokes for Different folks.